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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket. October 2007

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V A N I TV T Ul С A D T Г» С I I C C ^T T HE A RT OF L I F E THE ART OF FASHI ON FENDI Hfl? DOLCE &GABBANA TATYANA PARFiONOVA эн LAUREN A R f \) ST. PE' 3, KAZANSKAYA Si WWW.VANITY pocket В шя m ЦЩ] * к г How could y° u s a y no? CONTENTS St Petersburg First Class hotel on 49 Nevsky prospect near famous museums and shops OOOO: • • • • • Ю stpetersburg.radissonsas.com call free from Russia 8 10 800 2002 1353 >£ldi*b(>l\ HOTELS THAT LOVE TO SAY YES! inyourpocket ESSENTI AL CITY GUI DES Contents Foreword A word from the Publisher News Monthly October headlines! Arriving Getting here is half the battle Language Cyrillic & book review Culture & Events Discover the Russian cultural scene Restaurants 27 Nightlife 39 What to see 44 Churches & museums Bridge Schedule Poem of the month: Alexander Pushkin October 2007 FOREWORD Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Hotel 4 Pochtamtskaya Street, St Petersburg, Russia Tel: +7 812 3 8 0 4 0 0 0; Fax: +7 812 3 8 0 4 001 http://renaissancehotels.com/LEDBR ЛЧаггюП REWARDS i Russians really are a pet's best friend. I don't know another city like St. Petersburg where you can find so many beauty salons and pet shops. I see huge dogs travelling up the stairs with their owners to their small communal apartments and in my courtyard people are constantly leaving food for homeless animals. In our business centre, the most popular resident is an inquisitive white cat. Recently I have been travelling a lot between Moscow and St. Petersburg, in the trains you always meet people with pets, either sleeping on their knees or lying in the aisle. Where else but here can you see statues to honor cats (Ul. Malaya Sadovaya see map £-3), dogs (outside the Institute of Experimental Medicine on the Petrograd Side D-l), the hare (sitting by the loannovsky Bridge at the Peter and Paul Fortress D-2), and birds (don't miss the little Chizhik Pizzik statue near the Engineers Bridge E-3). In the Marstall Club, although most come for the striptease shows, you can see a beautiful bronze statue of a horse near the dance floor. Waiting for the lights at an intersection a few months ago I had quite an overwhelming experience. I saw a real bear in the back of a Lada. Sitting quietly between two Russians, they were on their way to... well, to what? The circus? The zoo? I was so stunned I forgot to get out my camera! I was telling my Russian friends later, 'And you think it's strange that some people in the West still think you can see beers walking down Russian streets?!' Europe In Your Pocket Northern Ireland С
Isle of Man Estonia \JTz7\ Russia Latvia Lithuania Bonnie van der Velde Publisher In Your Pocket, Russia Cover story Our October cover, honouring 170 years of Russian railways, was taken by Svet-
lana Vorontsova-Nogteva. This classic engine can be found at the Museum of Railway Technology in St. Petersburg. For more information see our feature on page 19. It is high times for In Your Pocket at the moment. New guides launched since our last issue include Katowice In Your Pocket, in Poland, while brand new editions of our annual guides to Kaunas, Klaipeda (Lithuania), Parnu, Tartu (Estonia), Dub-
rovnik, Rijeka and Zadar (Croatia) are also now for sale on the continent's newsstands, and online at http://clickandbuy.inyourpocket .com. We have also, after a hiatus of several years, relaun-
ched an old favourite: Minsk In Your Pocket. A web exclusive, it can be downloaded for free in PDF at www.inyourpocket.com. inyouij>ocket E S S E NT I A L CI TY GUI DES St. Petersburg In Your Pocket founded and published by 000 'Krasnaya Shapka' Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ligovsky pr. 270. iyp.spb@gmail.com, telAax: +7 (812) 326 46 17, www.inyourpocket.com © In Your Pocket / ВСВ Tourism And Publishing BV СВЭ Ben Rogmans, The Netherlands Published 12 times per year N 42,01-10-2007 20.000 copies The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers' comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Editor Jennifer Fell, Isabel Stone Layout & Design Alexander Firsanov Research Olga Sharapova Sales & Circulation General Director Charles Hoedt Commercial Director Bonnie van der Velde / bvdv@mail.ru Sales Managers Leonie Woldring, Ekaterina Yanushevskaya Maps Discus Media Ltd. License CZG N 01041K, www.mapserv.ru Copyright notice Text and photos copyright SPIYP 2003-
2007. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: 0 0 0 "Красная Шапка" Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Литовский пр., д. 270 тел./факс: + 7(812) 326 46 17 Главный редактор: Чарльз Худт Отпечатано в 0 0 0 "ППК "Текст" 188680, Ленинградская обл., Всеволожский р-н, дер. Колтуши, Д. 92. Заказ №896 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи №2-6849 от 1710.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. . 20000 . 42.01.10.2007 October 2007 175 years of the Mussorgsky Established in 1883, the Mussorgsky Theatre begin the celebrations of their 175th theatrical season this month. One of St. Petersburg's oldest theatre houses, the theatre was designed and constructed by the talented Petersburg Aleksandr Brullov in 1831-33. Originally called Mikhailovsky in honour of the Tsar Nicholas I's brother Mikhail, the Mussorgsky comes from the legendary success of the Mussorgsky authored opera, Boris Godunov. The success of the theatre's Russian opera program heralded a return of fortunes to the theater during the 1980's The new director of Ballet, Farouk Ruzimatov, and the director of Opera, renowned soprano Elena Obraztsova are taking this legendary theater into its next era. The new season kicks off on October 6 with two spectaculars, first the Minkus ballet, Don Quixote with Denis Matviyenko in the title role. The first operatic performance on the following evening features Elena Obraztsova herself, and Vladimir Chernov in Tchaikovsky's opera, based on the classic Pushkin short story, The Queen of Spades. For more information, see Culture and Events, starting page 13. Happy Birthday Mr President! Russia's President and St. Petersburg's favourite son turns 55 on October 7. Putin, as seen here in recent photos, is Russia's fittest and most buffed-
up leader! He likes to celebrate in his hometown somewhere, but the exact details of his celebrations are usually kept a close secret. Tens of thousands of his adoring female fans no doubt join in the birthday congratulations. From Hamburg with Love St. Petersburg and Hamburg celebrates 50 years of their sister-city partnership this month. St. Petersburg has a staggering total of 36 sister cities, most of which were accumulated in the second half of the 20th century. To celebrate the 50 year link, the Goethe Institute are putting on a week of cinematic, musical and literary events featuring famous German writers, Gerhard Henschel, Mirko Bonne and Kirsten Boie. For more information, see www. goethe.org Website According to many (inter)national websites and media we have the best portal for travelling to Central and Eastern Europe, including St. Petersburg, which has helped already millions of travellers. Our website has more information we want to share with our readers including pastfeatures (Learning Russia in Russian, 100 years of the Spilt Blood Church) and our database with the best restaurants, cafes and pubs in the city. Go to www.inyourpocket.com/russia/en Let it be a lesson to you... Fancy taking home an old Soviet medal souvenir? It could just land you in court, as happened to Chilean student, Roxana Contreras. After buying some Soviet medals from a flea market in Voronezh, she was arrested at the airport. Threatened with a seven year sentence, thankfully 31 August saw prosecutors drop the smuggling charges, leaving her with fines of 15000Rbl ($585) for illegal purchasing! So if you've got plans to rush to Udelnaya Market for some last-minute souvenir shopping, think twice before splashing out on genuine Soviet artefacts - it might win you a visit to Kresty Prison! Baby food - yes. Water - no! At last, restrictions on just what liquids you can take on board a Russian airplane have caught up with the rest of the world. Strict new rules have been in force since August 27. The long and short of it is - don't take liquids in your hand luggage. Special diet food, baby food and medicines may be taken but not more than 100ml. You may need to show your prescription or taste the baby-mush at security. Items bought in duty-free must be sealed, and it is vital to keep the receipt for proof of purchase. Daylight Savings Ends Don't forget! Daylight Savings Time finishes on Sunday October 28. At 03:00, all clocks go back to 02:00, which means a whole extra hour of glorious sleep or partying and drinking time. In Your Pocket news stand ... 'With so many central and eastern European cities now : within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this (In Your Pocket) website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks, including more obscure destinations like Tirana in Albania and Minsk in Belarus." July 18, 2007, The Times (UK) Topsfor Central and Eastern Europe.. ..This online collection of locally written, frank, lively and informative guides to more than 50 cities across the region... For most cities, content runs deep (...)" Forbes.com "Best of the Web 2006" 'In Your Pocket (www.inyourpocket.com/russia/st_peters-
burg/en/) Monthly listings booklet with up-to-date informa-
tion and short features.' Lonely Planet Russia 2007 Arriving in Russia can be overwhelming but don't worry! The city has good transport options from the airport and all St. Petersburg train stations are next to metro stops. By plane St. Petersburg's two airports are south of the city. Most international flights arrive at Pulkovo-2, tel. 704 34 44; internal flights (incl. most former Soviet republics) arrive at Pulkovo-1, tel. 704 38 22. Both airports have currency exchange offices (obmen valyuty) and ATMs (bankomaty) - although they're not always open, so have some spare cash when you arrive. Getting to town Airport taxi-drivers ask anything from 1500Rbl, US$50 or €50 to take you to the city centre. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is no more than 700Rbl, US$25 or €20. There's a bus (12-15Rbl) to Moskovskaya metro, from where the metro (14Rbl) gets you to the centre in 15min. There are also less-extortionate taxis here (200Rbl to the centre of town). The 24hours 7day Pulkovo Express Bus leaves from Pulkovo-1 and Pulkovo-2 and goes to Pushkinskaya metro. It stops at Zagorodny pr. 49 Technologichesky In. metro (C-4) and costs 70Rbl. Buses run every 20-30 mins. From Pulkovo-2: buses N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) K13, T113 go to Moskovskaya metro every 15 min (15 - 20Rbl). Mini-buses КЗ and K213 go to Moskovskaya and to the more central Sennaya PI. From Pulkovo-1: minibus K39 leaves the arrivals terminal for Ladozhsky Station, stopping at metro Moskovskaya, Moskovsky (Moscow) Station and Hotel Moskva in the city centre. Lost Luggage: If your airline loses your luggage, head for the Lost Luggage office to file a report. Then just call the office to find out where your bags are. When your luggage arrives, due to customs regulations, you have to make the journey back to the airport to collect it. Tel. 324 37 87. By boat The main passenger terminal is on Vasilevsky Island, a 15-20min drive to the centre by bus (12-15Rbl), minibus (17-
20Rbl) or cab (don't pay more than 200Rbl). Cruise ships also moor right in the city centre near the Blagoveshensky (the old Leitenant Shmidt Bridge), from here it is a nice walk along the Neva river to the Hermitage. River cruises to/from Moscow or Valaam (Lake Ladoga) anchor at the river terminal on Prospekt Obukhovskoy Oborony near Proletarskaya metro (14Rbl, 15min to the city centre). ARRIVING Tourist Information Centre City Tourist information Cen­
t re E-3, Ul. Sadovaya 14/52, [M]Gostiny dvor, tel. 310 28 22; D-3, Dvortsovaya pi. 12, tel. 982 82 53, www.visit-petersburg.com. There are two city centre information points for tourists to find out about the city. If thieves have picked your pocket, the staff can help you file a police report. Another tourist information point is in the Arrivals hall of Pulkovo-2 on the right just as you enterthe terminal. • Open 19:00. Airport, 10:00 -
By bus If you go by bus, most drivers drop you off at the Central Bus Station at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo Kanala 36 (E-4). From there it is a short taxi ride (about lOORbl) to the city centre. You can also walk for 15min to Ligovsky Prospekt metro station. Buses from the Baltic states also make a stop in front of Baltiisky station and Baltiiskaya metro. If you arrive from Finland on a private bus, they stop near the big hotels close to Nevsky Prospekt in the centre of town. By car Driving to Russia? Don't forget: your national and international driving permit, registration and insurance documents for the car and of course your passport with visa. At the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is stamped! Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or ГАИ) may also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher orfor speeding. On highways, this varies between 80 -110 km/h. Don't overpay the traffic police; the official penalty for driving 20km too fast is 50Rbl, for 60km it costs 300Rbl. Watch out as fines are due to increase as of January 2008, some by as much as 1000%! By train Four of the five main train stations (vokzaly) have long­
distance trains. Vitebsky Station is the destination for trains from the Baltic States and Eastern Europe, including Germany. Trains from Finland arrive at Finlyandsky Station, while Moskovsky Station is the hubfor Moscow bound trains. Trains to destinations in the north leave from Ladozhsky station. Only local trains (elektrichky) depart from Baltiisky station. Q FORTUNA MA NA GI NG COMPA NY RED OCTOBER C O M P A N Y «•Renaissance MillenniuM St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 m BASICS BASICS Some pointers to get you started - and to help you make some sense of chaotic Russian life. 24 hours One of the good things about Russia is that it is never difficult to find a place to get food or drink, even in the middle of the night, whether it is a simple shop or an expensive nightclub. If you see the 24-sign (or a 25-sign), it means this place is open around the clock. Alcohol Stereotypes about Russian drinking habits are mostly true, so if you somehow find yourself enmeshed in a vodka session with locals, don't try to keep up. Vodka is cheap and there are oodles of different brands to choose from. Russky Standart, Diplomat and Flagman are pretty good. Russian beer (pivo) is good stuff, which is probably why Russians consume more beer than anything else. Locally brewed Nevskoe, Baltika and Bochkarev are the mainstay for most Petersburgers. Or try Sovietskoe Shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne), the national party drink - it comes in five varieties ranging from very sweet (sladkoe) to dry (sukhoe) and very dry (brut). A recent law states that you cannot buy drinks in shops that contain over 15% alcohol between 23:00 and 08:00. Communism Many older residents still call St. Petersburg 'Leningrad,' and reminders of the forefather of Russia's communist revolution are everywhere. There are still a number of Lenin statues scattered around the city and there are 240 places of historical significance where Lenin lived or directed some kind of revolutionary activity. When communism was abandoned, many buildings, streets and landmarks in St. Petersburg went back to their pre revolutionary names. Customs Most important is the completion of the IMMIGRATION CARD (see Visa). If you don't carry drugs, billions of euros or weapons with you, you do NOT need to complete the 'Customs and Currency Declaration Statement' upon arrival or departure. This applies even if your cabin crew gives you this form. Just collect your luggage and simply go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel. If you are carrying valuables, or are the argumentative type, then it is wise to fill in the customs declaration and have it stamped. In this Climate Octo Take caug E • £ 40 s " rain high ber temperatures are typically around 0 and 15°C. an umbrella or a raincoat with you so you don't get ht out in a spontaneous rain shower. /" -^—-^ \ s ^- ^" >N4_ ""-^. у/~ ^~~~-~~*^ ^"V —"—" ^ ^ ?^ N^ "^^^ — ' ^ 4 N. - ^У >^ —' ^ N Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec щ average temperature (C) •••• • est recorded temperature (C) —-— lowest recorded temperature (C) • •• Basic data Area: Russia is the biggest country in the world, covering an area of more than 17 million km2, of which 13% is developed and 51% is virgin territory. St. Petersburg is in Russia's Northwest Federal Region. Local Time: Russia has 11 time zones and St. Petersburg is in the same zone as Moscow: UTC/GMT +3 (+4 during daylight savings time). Population: Russia 142 million, St. Petersburg 4.5 million. Ethnic groups in Russia: Russian 81.5%, Tartar 3.8%, Ukrainian 3%, Chuvash 1.2%, Bashkir 0.9%, Belarusian 0.8%, Moldavian 0.7%, other 8.1% Rivers: The 4,400km - long River Lena, in Siberia, is Russia's longest river. St. Petersburg's River Neva is 74km long, 32km of which flow within the city's boundar­
ies. Highest point: Mt Elbrus 5,642m (Caucasus). instance you need to get in the RED (to declare) queue. In general, the rules are: CASH: You can bring in up to US$3,000 in cash without declaring it (considering we are in Russia this rule may vary). ART: Anything resembling art should be cleared in advance of departure at the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 -17:00. It's illegal to take out icons or paintings which are more than 100 years old. PRINTED MATERIAL: Once again, if it's more than 100 years old, it's not going anywhere. If it was published between 1903 and 1953, you will need an 'expert's report,' either from the Rosokhrankultura or an accredited shop. If you go to the Rosokhrankultura, take the sales receipt of the item you are getting checked with you, along with your passport or the passport of the person who will take it out of the country. Disabled travellers Like most metropolises, Petersburg is not very friendly for disabled people. But there are some bright spots, such as the hotels, museums and restaurants that do cater for disabled people. Lookforthe 0 sign in this magazine. The Hermitage Museum (tel. 710 90 79) and the Russian Museum (tel. 314 64 24) have special entrances. The pavement on Nevsky Prospekt and other main roads don't have many holes, but wheelchair users often have a bumpy time. For travellers with visual and/or hearing difficulties: Russian drivers are no gentlemen, so be careful! Such a bargain! 1 kg of beef 1 kg of potatoes 10 eggs McDonald's Big Mac Loaf of black bread Litre of vodka Bottle of local beer Pack of Marlboros Petrol, 1 litre Viagra 1 = 34 - 35Rbl: GBP £1 = 50 - 52Rbl US $1 = 25 - 27Rbl; China CNY 1 = 3- 4Rbl 180Rbl 22Rbl 30Rbl 52Rbl 15Rbl 130Rbl 20Rbl 30Rbl 21Rbl 1700Rbl €5.19 €0.63 €0.86 €1.50 €0.43 €3.75 €0.58 €0.86 €0.61 €48.99 $6.98 $0.85 $1.16 $2.02 $0.58 $5.04 $0.77 $1.16 $0.81 $65.97 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Electricity The electrical current in Russia is 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Most sockets are standard European size with double round-pin plugs. It makes sense to bring an adapter (in Russian, adapter or perehadnik)just in case. Floors In Russia there is no ground floor as such. When you're on the ground floor, you're actually on the first floor. And so on. Foreigner prices The 'foreigner price' is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times more than the Russian price. These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the 'real price.' If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price. If you have experienced problems with the foreigner pricing system, send an email to Victor Konovalenko and Cheryl Ann Sigsbee: rustex99@mall.ru. They are campaigning against the pricing system on the grounds that all foreigner prices in Russia contravene articles 62, 19 and 44 of the Russian Constitution. Be on guard! Pickpocket places Nevsky Prospekt and other downtown streets are very popular places for pick-pocketing gangs. They like to block the entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances (particularly during rush hour). It may be wiser to leave valuables in your hotel's safe and carry only enough cash for the day. Don't be too conspicuous. Don't hang your camera around your neck. Sadly there's been reports of theft around the coat checks and during theatre intermissions. Think twice about leaving mobile phones when checking your bags at official airport and train station checkpoints. Police! The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original. What to do if you are robbed Cancel your credit cards as soon as possible. Carry copies of your credit cards with international customer service numbers somewhere other than your wallet. The Tourism Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen (see page 66). More safety... Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking, tf you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - emergency hotline: 578 30 94 - police hotline for foreigners (09:30 -18:15, you need to request a transla-
tor) or 702 21 77 - also for foreigners (24hrs, only in Russian); 340 10 20 - central police switchboard YOUR TRAVEL EXPERi Combining the best of British thinking with the best of local Russian know-how, Leto Tours is a certified travel company specializing in travel and event organization. If you are looking for a one stop solution for visas, transport, tours, conferences wedding or events, we wi l l make it simple. Tel + 7 (812) 5712164 or UK +44 (0) 20 7193 5030 Fax + 7 (812) 57! 1297 The Geneum Centre, 10 Nevski Prospect, St Petersburg hello@letotours.com wwwJetotours.com Habits No shoes in the house! When entering a Russian household, remember to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers. In terms of greetings, if you're a woman and you hold your hand out to a man, don't be suprised if it not shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking! For many women this is heaven, althoughforfeminists it may be hell. Health & Safety Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than your average European city. Thefamed Russian mafia has bigger fish to fry than your average tourist and you're more likely to be robbed or beaten up by thugs ingeniously disguised as police officers. Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully and don't assume cars will stop just because you're on a zebra crossing. Other dangers include dodgy electrical fittings, temperamental gas stoves, uncovered manholes and absinthe. The city's water is chlorine treated due to bacteria, parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first. Market values Petersburg may be ranked high as one of the more expensive cities in the world for expatriates, if you look at the Economist's Big Mac index, it's not bad (a Big Mac costs just over a euro). For Westerners, public transport is cheap.for 700Rbl you can travel 600kms to Moscow by train. You can also buy red or black caviar for €5-15 per tin, not to mention vodka for €3-5 a bottle. October 2007 a BASICS RUSSIAN TOURS IAHIAIUEMATKAT VIISUMIT&MATKAT VENAJAllE www.russtantours.fi Money The national currency is the ruble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 10,50,100,500,1,000 and the 5,000 note. Ruble coins come in 1,2,5 and lORbls. There are 100 kopeks to a ruble and kopek coins come in 1,5,10 and 50. Officially, it's illegal to pay in dollars or euros. It is possible to see prices written in Cyrillic 'y.e.' (or u.e.), even though this practice was banned in January 2005. Y.E. (U.E.) means 'conditional unit' - the exchange rate between the ruble and the dollar, or the ruble and euro (or sometimes whatever the vendor wants). Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels (look for the ATM sign @ on our city map, page 62 - 63). Not all establishments take credit cards, even if they have signs that say they will. Always have cash as back up. American Express travellers' cheques are exchangeable at most banks. The head office is in the White Nights Business Centre: 23 Malaya Morskaya, tel. 326 45 00. Most Russian banks also offer Western Union money transfers (see www.westemunion.ru for a complete list). Russia, St. Petersburg, 191040 Ligovsky pr. 43/45 Office 410 Tel: (812) 578 19 07/973 84 77 Fax: (812) 578 18 85 E-mail: hotel@grif.spb.ru Internet:www.grif.spb.ru GRI.F Saint-Petersburg Grif Travel Company We organise and coordinate Corporate parties and functions, taking place in and on: • Boat cruises • Palaces and suburbs of St. Petersburg • Restaurants and cafes of the city and the suburbs • In the countryside We offer a wide range of services including: • Theme ideas • Programs (Staging and decoration sTjarisport and technicals? llgqisties support, 3rqanisin'qfrun ItheKiwahfttels! StkuS^fiimQftD . By special arrangement, your f unct i on could be held on a yacht, VIP motorboat, hel i copter or a tank or Ж = ladies or M = gentleman Toilets Difficult to find a public toilet? Look for the © sign on our city map (page 62 - 63). If the (chemical) lavatory is not good enough for you, try the toilets at McDonald's, random hotels, cafes and restaurants. Just utter the words 'Gdye tualyet?' ('Where is the toilet?') whilef lashing af riendly smile and most establishments will let you use their facilities. Travel agencies Alliance F-3, Ul. 2ya Sovetskaya 7, office 408, IMjPI. Vosstaniya, tel. 579 99 33, www.alliancetr.com. The Alliance team can assist with all services needed to discover St. Petersburg, including transfers, accommodation and excur­
sions, visa support and registration. • Open 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fortuna C-2, Syezhinskaya ul. HA, office4, (MjSport-
ivnaya, tel. 232 81 58, www.redoctober.ru. Fortuna is an incoming tour operator offering the complete range of services to both groups and individuals. Large experience in servicing tourists travelling on a cruise. • Open 1Ю0 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Grif Travel Company E-3, Ligovsky pr. 43/45 office 410, IMJPI- Vosstaniya, tel. 578 19 07, www.grif.spb.ru. The Grif travel team are more than happy to show the beauty of St. Petersburg to you. They are entertainment specialists; see the city by boat cruise or take a trip to the outskirts. • Open 10:00 -19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Centre of Incoming Tourism D-4, Ul. Sadovaya 53, office 72, (MjSadovaya, tel. 310 45 89, www.ic-hotel.spb.ru. The International Centre is an incom­
ing tour operator with over 8 years experience. Good deals on hotel rates and tours. Competitive visa support. • OpenlOOO -1900. Closed Sat, Sun. Leto Tours D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 57121 64, www.letotours.com. Leto Tours has more than five years of experience, with a focus on providing luxury travel packages. Offering one-stop service from start to finish, they offer expert advice whether you are a business traveller, budding newlyweds or intrepid tourist. • Open 10:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun Ost - West Kontaktservice E-3, Nevsky pr. 105, (M)PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 327 3416, www.ostwest.com. Ost-West Kontaktservice has over ten years of experience in organising tours to Russia and St. Petersburg both for individuals and groups. Also representatives of the lomographic society in St. Petersburg. • Open 1000 - 18O0. Closed Sat, Sun. Ost-West Kontaktservice Your speci al i sts for individual tours in Russia • Hotel reservation • Private accommodation • Transfers • Excursion service • Railway Tickets • Cruises • Visa-support Online! Also welcome to the Lomographic Embassy (lomo compact for sale) IQfrrVCTP JconUktHrvict Nevsky pr. 105 (entrance from yard) Tel+ 7 (812) 327 34 16 Fax+7 (812)327 34 17 www.ostwest.com Visas & Registration Unfortunately, almost every foreign visitor still needs a visa to enter (and exit) Russia. To apply at a Russian consulate, you need an invitation from an inviting party (your hotel, a travel company, business partner, or Russian friend). A tourist visa is valid for maximum of 30 days. For longer stays, a business (multiple entry) visa is the best option; such visas can be had for 3, 6 or 12 months. But don't forget you need proof of health insurance and a document certifying that you are HIV-negative if you want a visa for longer than three months. Changes to the visa system in 2007 have meant that there is now a great deal of confusion regarding the conditions of multi-
entry visas and in particular exactly how long someone can stay in Russia. Although it is difficult to confirm visa regulations and information, try asking the company who issues your invitation but be aware that visa regulations can be interpreted differently by different organisations. Remember that you must be registered within three working days after arriving in Russia. If you're staying at a hotel, the hotel is legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many tourist agencies can also register you. If you don't get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you. For more information on how to obtain tourist and business visas (including various tricks and registration possibilities) see www.inyourpocket.com National holidays Russian prazdniki (holidays or festivals) are important and occur frequently. On most holidays, you wish people a happy holiday by saying 's prazdnikom'. January 1 New Year January 7 Orthodox Christmas February 23 Defender of the Fatherland Day (informally known as Men's Day) March 8 International Women's Day May 1 May of Spring and Labour May 9 Victory Day June 12 Russia Day November 4 Day of Popular Unity Note: all government offices and most other official institutions are closed on public holidays. Working days are often shifted. For instance, if itfalls on a Tue or a Thu, then the weekend is shifted a day towards the holiday and the Sat or the Sun becomes an official working day. BASICS D History 9th Century Slavic peoplefrom Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th - 15th Centuries Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. 17th Century Time of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703 Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712. 1725-1825 A princess from Germany marries into the Romanovs, becoming Catherine the Great (1762 - 1796). Famous for progressive reform, infamous for her lovers. 1812 Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1825 Decembrist uprising: soldiers, nobles revolt against Nicho­
las I, who executes and exiles the dissenters. 1905 Bloody Sunday: national uprising against Tsarist rule. Prompts the establishment of a national parliament (Duma) in 1906. 1916 Wild-eyed, womanising Rasputin, a Siberian peasant monk who has the Tsarina Alexandra under his spell, is murdered by Prince Felix Yusupov in St. Petersburg. 1917-1922 Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin's Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. 1922-1991 Under Stalin, the Soviet Union (USSR) becomes a world power. The USSR defeats Nazi Germany, but Stalin's regime of camps and purges plunges Russia into terror. When Stalin dies in 1953, some 20 million people have perished. Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space (1961). New leader Gorbachev's reforms of perestroika (restructuring) and glas-
nost (openness) improve western relations (1985). 1991-1999 Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the newly founded Russian Federation in 1991. Economic crisis and instability ensues and war with Chechnya results in numerous victims. 1999 - 2007 Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosper­
ous, thanks to gas and oil exports and Putin's popularity knows no boundaries. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 i2 LANGUAGE The Cyrillic alphabet has 33 letters. If you can learn all of them, it will make finding your way around St. Petersburg a lot easier. Language Although the official language is Russian, more than 100 minority languages are spoken with Tartar being the most popular minority language. There are also people who speak little-known languages like Ket, Rutul, Nivkh and Vepsian. Knowledge of English is not as widespread as in European countries, but its on the increase! Word of the Month: Biznes Lanch Modern Russian is littered with loanwords like 'biznes lanch', used to describe that which is relatively new to the country and hence never needed a name before. Walk past any restaurant or cafe between noon and 4pm, and you will certainly see a sign with these words Бизнес Ланч offering a fixed menu at a pretty good price. Don't worry you don't need to turn up in a suit carrying a briefcase! Other loanwords you can see include 'second khend', 'fast fud' and our favourite, 'khot dog'. Alphabet A A Б В В V Г G Д D Е YE Ё YO Ж ZH 3 Z И 1 Й 1 К К Л L м м Н N 0 0 П Р С т У ф X Ц р R S Т и F КН TS Ч ш щ ы э ю я ъ,ь сн SH SHCH Y Е YU YA no sound Practicalities No Hello Good morning Good day Good evening Good Bye How are you? Thank you Excuse me Sorry Please I don't understand Нет Здравствуйте Доброе утро Добрый день Добрый вечер До свидания Как дела? Спасибо Простите Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю nyet zdrastvuite dobroye utro dobry dyen dobry vecher dasvidanya как dyela? spasibo prastitye izvinitye pazhalusta у a nye panimayu LlDEN & DENZ* ST. PETERSBUM; • Moscow Transportny per. 11 RUS-191119St.Petersburg Tel: •? 812 600 75 50 email: bookings@lidenz.ru www.russiancourses.com Learn Russian Now! •Year round Group and One-to-one Courses • Expatriate Courses at special prices •tn-company training •Internationally recognised and Swiss managed learning Russian i of Rjiiian, Engish and French М п Н а AflCV^ Russian for leisure and business State-of-the-art teaching methods The Madonnas of Leningrad Combining art, war, romance and Alzheimer's might seem a little unoriginal atf irst, yet this debut novelfrom American Debra Dean is a great deal better and more elegantly written than you'd first imagine. This absorbing read makes an in­
teresting contribution to the wealth of literature that already surrounds Leningrad's WWII Blockade. The novel tells the story of Marina, one of the title Madonnas, in two deftly woven alternating strands. Thef irst relates her experience living in the Hermitage basement during the Leningrad blockade while the second centres around the now elderly Marina's life in America. Aged in her eighties and suffering from Alzheimer's, she is unable to remember whose wedding she is now attending (her granddaughter's). One of the things that Dean does very well is blend the two themes of the novel, art and war together. The story opens with the description of a Velasquez painting of peasants enjoying a hearty lunch which immediately moves into the reality of the war by de­
scribing the desperate scraping of the glue from the painting frame so it could be turned into a kind of edible jelly. Art, always a form of intellectual nourishment, is transformed into a kind of physical nourishment as well. Along with the cast of babushkas (grandmothers) sitting guard in each of the Hermitage rooms, the Hermitage is also a character here as the empty frames were left hanging on the walls as a promise that the art would be returned once the war was over. Marina gives a tour for Russian troops through this empty framed Hermitage so that the soldiers and the reader feel that the paintings are still hanging there. It was actually a surprise to learn that Dean hadn't visited the Hermitage at the time of writing the book. This graceful novel should please everyone from art lovers to romance fans to war buffs. of Leningrad The Madonnas of Leningrad, Debra Dean, (Harper Perennial 2006), 428ЯЫ Every customer who shows this In Your Pocket book review recieves 15% off all books. Anglia represents classic Russian Literature in five European languages-English, German, French, Spanish and Italian. 49J3TS3itO0 Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38 (Turgenev House), (MjNevsky pr., tel. 579 82 84, www.anglophile. ru. • Open 10:00 - 20:00. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket CULTURE & EVENTS Из In October there are more events than Autumn colours in the city's parks! For more information on events, see www.inyourpocket.com. For full venue addresses see below. Cinemas Please note that most cinemas do not show films in English. Avrora and Dom Kino do occasionally but check in advance. Avrora E-3, Nevsky pr. 60, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel.050. Dom Kfno E-3, Ul. Karavannaya 12, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 314 5614, www.domkino.spb.ru Churches & Concert halls Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-3, Ul. Mikhailovs-
kaya 2, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 710 40 85. DK Vyborgsky (DKV) E-2, Ul. Komissara Smimova 15, M!PI. Lenina. Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) E-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, Щ V-
ladimirskaya, tel. 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru JFC Jazz Club E-2, ul. Shpalernaya 33, (MjChernyshevs-
kaya, tel. 272 98 50. Ledovy Dvorets (LD) Pr. Pyatiletok 1 (opposite the metro), |M]Pr. Bolshevikov, tel. 718 66 20 Maltiskaya Capella (MC), E-3, Ul. Sadovaya 26, tel. 498 07 04 Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-4, Ul. Pisareva, Sennaya. tel. 326 4141 Music Hall (MH)D-2, Aleksandrovsky park4, (MjGorkovs-
kaya, tel. 233 02 43, www.musichall.spb.ru Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, (M]PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 27512 73, www.bkz.sp.ru Peterhof White Hall (PWH) Peterhof, The Great Peter-
hof Palace, tel. 427 95 27, www.peterhof.org. Rachmaninov Courtyard (RC) D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, Nevsky pr. tel. 312 95 58 St. Isaac's Cathedral (SIC) D-3, Isaakievskaya pi., (MjNevsky pr., tel. 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru Sampsonievsky Cathedral (SC) E-2, Bolshoy Sampso­
nievsky pr. 41, M Vyborgskaya. tel. 710 3138. Small Philharmonic Hall (SPH) D-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MjNevsky pr., tel. 31115 31, www.philharmonia.spb. ru Sport Concert Complex (SKK), Pr. Gagarina 8, Щ Park Pobedy, tel. 3781710 State Academic Capella (SAC) D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 20, M Nevsky pr., tel. 312 76 00 Yubileiny Sports Palace (YSP) C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, (MjSportivnaya, tel. 323 93 22, www.yubi.ru Yusupovsky Palace (YP) D-4, Nab. reky Moiky 94, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 314 98 83 Theatres Ballet and Opera Conservatory (BOC) C/D4, Teat-
ralnaya pi. 3, M Sennaya pi., tel. 5 7 1 8 1 6 5. Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) D-3, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 279 02 26, www.rus-ballet. com \Ш Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pi. 1, (MjSennaya pi., tel. 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.spb. ru [cc] Mussorgsky Theatre (MUT) E-3, PL Iskusstv l, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 595 43 05, www.mikhailovsky.ru St. Petersburg State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT) E-3, Ul. Italianskaya 13, M Gostiny Dvor, tel. 313 43 16. Zazerkalie Theatre (ZT) E-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 13, Щ Mayakovskaya, tel. 712 5135, www.zazerkal.spb.ru 06/1019:00 Acrobatic Rock and Roll C-2, Yubileiny Sports Palace (YSP), Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, (MjSport­
ivnaya. tel. 717 87 08, www. rrrf.ru. Exactly what it says on the tin - a very sporty, competitive form of choreographed dance. The strongest entries among the 140 entrants are reputed to be Rus­
sia, Ukraine, Germany, France and Slovakia. • Admission 300Rbl. 06/1019:00 Emir Kusturica and the No Smoking Orchestra E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, (MjPI. Vostarv niya, tel. 275 12 73, www.bkz. sp.ru. Founded in Sarajevo in 1980, their music is described as having 'a distinctive garage rock sound with folk influences'. Rim director Emir Kusturica joined the band in 1986 and two years later, the band composed the musicfor his film 'Black Cat, White Cat,' which went on to win the Silver Lion at the Venice Film Festival. • Admission 800 - 1800Rbl. Through 08/10 Early Music Festival Different locations, for more information, tel. 325 70 52, www.earlymusic.ru. First established in 1998, this festival is now recognised as one of Russia's leading musi­
cal forums. To celebrate the 10th anniversary, there will be performances by Organum (France), Gustav Leonhardt, Musica Antiqua Roma from Italy, Concerto Palatino and the Soloists of Catherine the Great (Russia). • Admission 120 - 500Rbl. Venues BKZ BOC GPH IHT JPH JFC LD MC MCH MAT MCT MM MPT MUT MH PWH RC SC SDPT SPH SAC SKK YSP YP ZT Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall Ballet and Opera Conservatory Grand Philharmonic Hall Imperial Hermitage theatre Jazz Philarmonic Hall JFC Jazz Club Ledovy Dvorets Maltiskaya Capella Mariinsky Concert Hall Mariinsky Theatre Musical Comedy Theatre Mikhailovsky Manezh Marionette Puppet Theatre Mussorgsky Theatre Music Hall Peterhof White Hall Rachmaninov Courtyard Sampsonievsky Cathedral Stray Dog Puppet Theatre Small Philharmonic Hall State Academic Capella Sport Concert Complex Yubileiny Sports Palace Yusupovsky Palace Zazerkalie Theatre October 2007 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS Tickets for Theatre & Events I Puppets and Shows for Kids! Tickets for most events can be bought at one of the many ticket offices (teatralnaya kassa). Look for the ф sign on our city map (page 62 and 63). Titanik CD shops also sell tickets for most (pop) concerts.dance events, and Zenit's home games. Of course each venue sells its own tickets and some let you reserve tickets on the internet (see E-Tickets, page 17). Titanik E-4 Nevsky pr. 63, (M) Mayakovskaya; E-3 Nevsky pr. 158 Щ PI. Alexan­
der Nevskogo, www.titanik-spb.ru. • Open 24hrs. All That Jazz 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 12 13 13 14 15 16 17 17 20 20 21 21 22 24 25 28 29 30 31 31 JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, (M)Chemy-
shevskaya, tel. 272 98 50. Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) E-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, Ш Vladimirskaya. tel. 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru Time Event 19:00 Terminator Trio 19:00 Jazz Prom 19:00 Real Jazz Quartet 19:00 Orange Band Venue JFC JFC JPH JFC 19:00 David Gofoshekin Jazz Organ Ensemble JPH 19:00 Modern Jazz Quintet 19:00 Alexander Latin Band 19:00 Doo Bop Sound 19:00 Gaivoronsky Volkov Kondakov 19:00 Vibrophonia 19:00 Kanunnikova Jazz Band 19:00 Popravko Quartet JFC JPH JFC JFC JFC JPH JFC 19:00 Kornev Ensemble - Cinema Melodies JPH 19:00 Paradigm 19:00 Leningrad Dixieland 19:00 Kostyushkin Ensemble 19:00 Rumba Jazz 19:00 Swing Couture 19:00 Jazz Quartet 19:00 Japanese Jazz Stars 19:00 Kondakova Ensemble JFC JPH JPH JFC JFC JFC JPH JFC 19:00 Stephanie Nakasian and Hod O'Brien JPH 19:00 Moonglow Project 19:00 Ritmo Caliente 19:00 Kullumanali 19:00 David Goloshekin Premiere 19:00 Jazz Guitar Ensemble 19:00 Big Blues Revival 19:00 Finestreet 19:00 Doo Bop Sound 19:00 Volkov Trio 19:00 1900 Jazz Spectacle JFC JPH JFC JPH JPH JPH JFC JFC JFC JPH Oct Time Event Venue Performances 06 07 0/ 07 08 12 13 13 13 14 14 14 20 20 21 21 21 27 28 12:00; 16:00 Adventures of Pinocchio 15:00 12:00 15:00 18:00 18:00 15:00 12:00 12:00 15:00 12:00 12:00 16:00 15:00 12:00 12:00 12:00 16:00 12:00 SPCY Stories for Children and Parents GPH Rikki-T ikki-Tavvi ZT Tchaikovsky's Childrens Album ZT The Greenhorn Poetic Evening Family Concerts Music of Prokofiev and Mussorgsky A Favorite Toy SPCY SPCY SPH SPCY ZT Old Grandmother's Fairy Tales SPH Cinderella Good morning or Yegor's dreams Snowstorm by Pushkin Wizard in a Floppy Hat TheTinderbox Snow Queen Magical Flute Russian Romance Ugly Duckling BOC ZT SPCY ZT BOC SPCY ZT SPCY ZT Puppets Ob 06 07 13 13 14 20 26 27 28 18:00 13:00, 11:00, 13:00, 11:00, 11:00, Ugly Duckling 15:00 Three Little Pigs 14:00 Umbrella for a Princess 15:00 The Uttle Chicken 14:00 Thumbellina 14:00 Tale of Ole Lykoye 11:00,14:00 Tales by Hans Christian Andersen 11:00,14:00 Magic Feather 13:00,15:00 Teremok 11:00, 14:00 Theatre of Pierrot and Colombina SDPT SDPT MPT SDPT MPT MPT MPT MPT SDPT MPT Marionette Puppet Theatre (MPT) С-4, [M] Sadovaya 75, Sadovaya, tel. 714 2114. Admission 100-120Rbl Stray Dog Puppet Theatre (SDPT) pr.Stachek 59, (M)Avtovo, tel. 783 43 27. Admission 150-170 State Philharmony of St.Petersburg for children and youngsters (SPCY) Bolshoy Sampsonievsky pr. 79, (MjLesnaya, tel. 295 42 67. Admission 80 300Rbl Zazerkalie Theatre (ZT) E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 13, Mayakovskaya, tel. 712 5135, www.zazerkal.spb.ru Ballet and Opera Conservatory (BOC) C/D-4, Teatralnaya pi. 3, Sennaya pi., tel. 5 7 1 8 1 6 5 09/10-10/1019:00 International Jazz Festival Art Depot D-3, Theatre Estradi, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 27, [MjNevsky pr., tel. 314 69 61, www.estrada.spb.ru. Celebrating the musical strands of ethno andf ree jazz, this two day festival brings praction-
ers of the genre togetherfrom America, Japan, Poland and Russia. Audiences will have the chance to delve into the avant-garde side of jazz here with master classes as well as performances. • Admission 500 - 800Rbl. 11/1019:00 Li tsedei Cl own Theat r e E-2, DK Vyborsky (DKV), Ul. Komissara Smimova 15, (M)PI. Lenina, tel. 54214 60, www.vdk.spb.ru. Famed clown theatre, Litsedei, was founded by St. Petersburg's own Slava Polunin in 1979, to bring clowns out of the circus and into the theatres and streets. Now these rebellious clowns tour the world to great success. Litsedei, a Russian word for actors or performers, present a program of their greatest hits, a delight for families of all cultures. • Admission 300 - 1500Rbl. 16/1019:00 Jivan Gasparyan E-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. 6, M PI. Vostanniya, tel. 275 12 73, www.bkz.sp.ru. Gasparyan plays the Armenian duduk, a double reed woodwind instrument similar to the oboe. Gasparyan is rec­
ognized for his mastery of this 'apricot pipe' as he refers to it, and has won numerous awards for his musicianship and played on the Gladiator soundtrack. • Admission 1500 - 3000Rbl. 19/1019:00 MUSE Ledovy Dvorets (LD), Pr. Pyati-
letok 1 (opposite the metro), M Pr. Bolshevikov, tel. 718 66 20, www. newarena.spb.ru. This lOyearold English rock band lead by singer, guitarist and pianist Matthew Bellamy, are one of the more musically talented groups on the scene. Their exhilarating music blends numerous different genres including progressive rock, electronica and classical. • Admission 1000 - 2500Rbl. Opera & Operetta St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Oct Time Event 02 07 08 11 12 13 16 16 17 17 19 19 20 21 24 26 27 28 30 30 19:00 Queen of Spades 19:00 Queen of Spades 19:00 Falstaff 19:00 Enchantress 19:00 La Traviata 19:00 Rigoletto 19:00 Rigoletto 19:00 Don Giovanni 19:00 La Boheme 19:00 Tosca 19:00 Eugene Onegin 19:00 Eugene Onegin 19:00 Flying Mouse 19:00 Le nozze di Figaro 19:00 La Traviata 19:00 Madama Butterfly 19:00 Faust 19:00 lolanta 19:00 La Traviata 19:00 Otello Venue MAT MUT MAT MAT MUT MAT MUT MAT BOC MUT MUT BOC MAT MAT MAT MAT BOC MUT MUT MAT Russian Rock, Folk and Pop Russian music has come a long way in the last twenty years. From the interna­
tionally successful Splean, pop princess Kristina Or-
bakai t e (l eft) and song queen Larisa Dolina to the soulful and lyrical Aleksan-
dr Rozenbaum. Here are a selection of the music acts and groups per f or mi ng around the city in October. For full venue addresses, see page 13. Oct Time Event 02 19:00 Aleksandr Rozenbaum 08 19:00 Piknik 12 - 14 19:00 Kristina Orbakaite 13 19:00 Alisa 17 19:00 Evgeny Dyatlov 21 19:00 Larisa Dolina 23 19:00 Pyatnikskogo Choir 24 19:00 Elena Vaenga 26 19:00 Shanson and Tantson 26 19:00 Splean 27 19:00 Chizh and Co Venue BKZ BKZ BKZ YSP BKZ BKZ BKZ BKZ LD YSP MH Ballet Oct Time Event 01 03 03 06 07 09 10 11 12 12 13 13 14 14 14 17 18 18 19 20 21 21 21 23 24 25 25 25 27 27 28 31 20:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Sleeping Beauty 20:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Don Quixote 19:00 Silenzio. Diana Vishneva 19:00 Nutcracker 19:00 Nutcracker 19:00 Sleeping Beauty 19:00 Nutcracker 19:00 Giselle 19:00 Cosi fantutte... 19:00 La Bayadere 19:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Nutcracker 19:00 Nutcracker 19:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Swan Lake 20:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Wie der Alte Leiermann.. .Du Cote chez Swan. The Ring 19:00 La Bayadere 19:00 Forsythe at the Mariinsky 20:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Vain Precaution 19:00 Sleeping Beauty 19:00 Romeo and Juliet 19:00 Giselle 19:00 Giselle 19:00 Don Quixote 19:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Legend of Love 19:00 Swan Lake 19:00 Le Corsaire Venue BOC MAT BOC MUT MAT MUT MUT MUT MAT BOC BOC MUT BOC MUT MAT MAT MUT BOC MAT MAT MAT BOC MUT MAT MUT MAT BOC MUT MUT MAT BOC MUT October 2007 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 21/1019:00 Bee Gees Ledovy Dvorets (I D), Pr. Pyatiletok 1 (opposite the metro), (M)Pr. Bolshevikov, tel. 718 66 20, www. newarena.spb.ru. Brothers Robin and Barry Gibb treat the city to their golden disco voices and almost four decades of disco legend. Their famous tunes with that recognisable falsetto, Stayin Alive, If I Can't Have You, and Night Fever, epitomise the era. That and John Travolta in his white tuxedo! • Admission 1500 - 5000Rbl. 26/1019:00 27/10 - 28/1017:00,20:00 Dreams of the Tango E-3, St. Petersburg State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT), Ul. Italyanskaya 13, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 570 5316, www.myzcomedy.narod.ru. Stars of the Argen­
tine tango scene including Silvio Grand, Maira Galante, Katerina Musitano and Pibe Avelyaneda perform their country's most passionate and expressive dance. The State Theatre of Music Comedy with conductor Andrei Aleksev is cooperating with the Carlos Gardel Theatre in Argentina to produce a magical show with music by Gardel, Astor Piazzolla and other tango composers. • Admission 150 - 400Rbl. 27/1019:00 Party Retro FM Ledovy Dvorets (LD), Pr. Pyatiletok 1 (opposite the metro), |MjPr. Bol­
shevikov, tel. 718 66 20, www. newarena.spb.ru. Bringing bands and artists together who you thought were already on their musical pensions, this event lets you relive the glory days of the 70's, 80's and 90's. The Italian foursome Ricchi e Poveri, British 70;'s band Eruption, and 80's singer-model Samantha Fox (pictured) will be sup­
ported by Russian music stars. • Ad­
mission 500 - 2O00Rbl. Football Oct Time Match 21 TBA Zenit-Khimki Venue PS Zenit is making a run for the championship... Go the sine-belo-goloubiye! (blue-white-blue - Zenit's colours) Telephone the stadium to find out what time kick off is, usually around 14:00. Petrovsky Stadium (PS) C-2, (MjSportivnaya, tel. 328 89 0 1, www.petrovsky.spb.ru Ice Hockey The hockey season gets underway in September. Sadly we can't say that last year St. Petersburg's lo­
cal Ska finished near the top of the league but they weren't on the bottom either. Lets hope the off­
season has been kind to them, www.ska.spb.ru Oct Time Match 06 17:00 SKA - Spartak Moscow 08 19:00 SKA - Avangard Omsk 18 19:00 SKA - Vityas Chehov 23 19:00 SKA - Khimik Moscow Ledovy Dvorets (LD) Pr. Pyatiletok 1, (MjPr. tel. 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru Venue LD LD LD LD Bolshevikov. Baltic House Theatre Festival Aimuntas Nekrosius is renowned and revered, both here in and in his native Lithuania, as one of the greatest contemporary theatre directors. This year as he turns 55, St. Petersburg's own Baltic House Theatre has dedicated its 17th International Festival to him. The festi­
val, entitled All Nekrosius' includes performances of Shakespeare, Goethe's Faust and performances based on the poetry of Donelaitus, a classical Lithuanian poet. To this end, this year's festival will also include video screenings of Nekrosius' past per­
formances from the Youth Theatre in Vilnius. These include Chekhov's Three Sisters, the Nose by Gogol and Little Trag­
edies by Pushkin as well as a photo exhibition in the theatre foyer focusing on the theatre of Nekrosius. Oct Time Performance 19 TBA Hamlet 20 TBA Seasons Joy ol 21 TBA Seasons Autur 22 TBA Song of Songs 24 TBA Macbeth 26 TBA Othello 28 TBA Faust Baltic House Theatre (BH) C-2, Aleksandrovsky park 4, Щ Gorkovskaya, tel. 232 35 39, www.baltichouse.spb.m Performances will be in Lithuanian, with Russian transla­
tion. Most performances will start at 19:00, however, we recommend calling in advance to confirm times. 19 20 21 22 24 26 28 TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA TBA Hamlet Seasons Joy of Spring Seasons Autumn Wealth Song of Songs Macbeth Othello Faust Classical Music Oct 01 02 02 02 03 04 04 04 05 05 06 06 07 07 09 10 11 12 15 14 16 16 16 18 19 20 20 20 20 21 21 21 23 23 24 25 25 26 28 28 30 30 1, . Time Event 19:00 International Day of Music 19:00 Piano Music Evening 19:00 Early Music Festival 19:00 Piano Music Evening 19:00 Symphonic Concert 19:00 Early Japan Music, Japanese Ensemble 19:00 Early Music Festival 19:00 Chizhik-Jazz Quintet 19:00 Nino Katamadze and Insight 19:00 Music Sacred and Secular 19:00 Music for Organ and Viola 19:00 Helsinki Orchestra 19:00 Early Music Festival 15:00 Sonata Music Evening 19:00 Evening of Early Russian Romance Venue SPH SAC SPH RC SAC PWH SAC SPH SAC GPH MC SAC SAC RC RC 19:00 Chamber Chorus of Smolny Cathedral SC 19:00 Young Russian Singers SAC 19:00 Gala Concert of the Mariinsky Theatre Chorus 19:00 Eleven Flutes 19:00 Brazil Day Concert 19:00 St.Petersburg Academic Symphony Orchestra 19:00 Brazil Music 19:00 Spanish Evenings in St.Petersburg 19:00 Vocal Music Evening 19:00 Piano Recital 19:00 Jan Raas and Organ Music 19:00 Gypsy Trio Loyko 19:00 Die Zauberflote, Mozart 19:00 Passion for Romanticism MCH SPH RC GPH RC SPH SPH SPH MC SAC MCH GPH 19:00 Around the World with an Orchestra GPH 19:00 Chamber Evening RC 19:00 Three Centuries of the Piano Sonata 19:00 Spanish Evenings Festival 19:00 Piano Music Evening 19:00 Organ Festival Opening 19:00 Percussion Ensemble 19:00 Culture Days of Argentina 19:00 St.Petersburg Admiralty Navy Band 19:00 Golden Voice of Flute 19:00 Chamber Evening 19:00 Piano Music Evening 19:00 Laureates of the Elena Obraztsova Vocal Competion ,,,,,.,, SPH SAC RC GPH SPH SAC GPH GPH RC RC SPH -.-, , J Circus Circus at Avtovo Ul. Avtovskaya 1A (MjAvtovo, tel. 783 15 0 1. Admission 100 - 450Rbl. I am a Clown or Journey to Childhood Oct Time 03,10,17, 24, 31 19:00 06,07,13,14, 20, 21, 27, 28 15:00 Circus on Fontanka E-3, Nab.reky Fontanky 3, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 570 55 9 1, www.circus.spb.ru Admission 300 - lOOORbl. Children under 3 yrsfree. Carnival on Fontanka (International Circus Show) Oct Time 07,14,17, 21, 28 13:00:17:00 05, 06,12,13,19, 20, 26, 27 15:00:19:00 Feel Yourself Russian Feel Yoursel f Russi an c-3, PI. Truda 4, office 42, MiSadovaya. tel. 312 55 00, www.folkshow.ru. If you want to observe how Russians sang and danced in the days before rock, hip hop and break dance - head to the folk-dance show Feel Yourself Russian in the Nikolayevsky Palace. Authentic Russian dance, songs and instruments. Call in advance to confirm show times. Open 08:30 - 23:00. Shows 18:30, 21:00. Admis­
sion 1200Rbl (incl. drinks and snacks). Щ] E-Tickets There are a number of online servi ces that allow you to reserve and/or buy ti ckets online and most servi ces offer delivery anywhere in the city for an additional fee. Tickets that are reserved need to be purchased within three days or the reservation expires. www.kassir.ru ( 703 40 40) - Comprehensive and up-to-date. Payment options include cash (when picking up the ti ckets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). www.bileter.ru ( 380 80 50) - Also very comprehen­
sive but only in Russian. Payment options include cash (for pick-up or delivery) or credit card (MC/V). www.mariinsky.ru ( 326 4 1 41) - The Mariinsky offers online ti ckets. Tickets can only be purchased online via a credit card (MC/V). Collect your ti ckets from the box office during opening hours or before the performance. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 EXHIBITIONS October brings the magic of flamenco, photo exhibits from Hamburg and the traditional dolls of Abkhazia. 04/10 - 07/10 Photoyarmaka (Photofai r) D-3, Manege Central Exhibition Hall, Isaakievskaya PI. 1, {MjSennaya PI., tel. 717 60 89, www.real-fair.ru. This event will appeal to practiced professionals, budding photographers and happy snappers alike. It will not only in­
clude presentations of new photography tech­
niques, but also a varied seminar program, dem­
onstrations, photograph exhibitions and amateur and professional competitions. Sections will include digital and analog photography, printing, gadgets and holography. 04/10-24/10 Hamburg Arti sts F-3/4, City Sculpture Museum, Nevsky pr. 179/2a. (M)PI. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. 2742579, www.gmgs.spb.ru. Two exhibitions are featured from two Hamburg artists as part of the 50 years of sister-city relations between St. Petersburg and Hamburg. The first features photographs from Ingeborg Zelo showing Hamburg and her inhab­
itants in the post-war years (see left). Contemporary artist and designer, Anna Bardi, presents objects and installations based round the theme of time and the transient. 05/10-03/11 Peter Shvetsov: Life and Death E-3, Anna Nova Gal­
lery, III. Zhukovskogo 28, (M)Mayakovskaya, tel. 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. Life, death, taxidermy and Rembrandt; all feaure in the new exhibition from respected Petersburg local modern artist Peter Shvetsov. In two spaces in the gallery, the first features a large scale painting with Rem­
brandt and the zoological museum, while his latest installation piece features in the second hall. Through 13/10 Grigori Zemstovski E-3, Jewish Community Centre, Ul. Rubinschteina 3, (MjDostoevsksaya, tel. 713 38 89. Entitled T he City and People' this is the first exhibition of local photographer, Grigori Zemstsovski. Passionate about the art of the lensfrom a young age, he has always shied away from the traditional methods and strived for something new. His por­
traits of St. Petersburg's people and cityscapes demonstrate his unusual eye and love for the art. Through 13/11 Vladislav Gutsevich C/D-2, Freud Museum, PS Bol-
shoy pr. 18A, (MjSport-
ivnaya, tel. 380 76 50, www.freud.ru. Another St. Petersburg artist, Gutsevich was one of the leaders of the 'New Artists' movement and the 'Club of the Friends of Mayakovsky' in the 80s. The exhibition will contain a retrospective of the artist's work, including both old and new canvases. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Through 14/10 Dolls Of the World B-2, Petersburg Doll Museum VO, Ul. Kamskaya 8, (MjVasileostrovskaya, tel. 327 72 24, www. russiandolls.ru. People often associate dolls with Russia, es­
pecially when thinking along the lines of souvenirs. But Russia is not the only country with this tradition; dolls are a wonderful way of displaying the costumes, customs and traditions of a country. This collection will include more than 400 dolls from over 60 countries, including Thailand, Mexico, Italy and Poland. Through 14/10 Flamenco - The Dance of Passion and Love E-3, Span­
ish Cultural Centre, Grafsky per. 4, (MjDostoevskaya, tel. 325 84 70, www.icsanpetersburgo.com. Petersburg pho­
tographer Maria Bolshakovoy exhibits her photos taken at flamenco performances in the city over the last three years. These photos highlight the graceful movements, agility and unique beauty and elegance of the dancers. There will also be demonstrations and master classes held by famous Spanish flamenco dancers. fjw M I Through 15/10 Petrov-Maslakov C-3, St Petersburg Artist Exhibition Centre, Nab. reky Moyky 100, (MjSennaya PI., tel. 337 13 19, www.piter-art.com. The artist Petrov-Maslakov, born in St. Petersburg in 1930, has brought a huge amount to representationalism in Petersburg and Russia. He has spent a lot of time in the last decade in Chukotka, Yakutia, Kamchatka and Alaska. At this exhibition over a hundred pieces of his work will be on display, including portraits, landscapes and narrative pictures, mainly inspired by his travels in these regions. Through 21/10 Folk dolls of Abkhazia D-l, Petersburg Toy Museum, Nab reki Karpovki 32, (MjPetrogradskaya, tel. 234 4312. Showing rarely exhibited traditional toys of Abkhazia and how they have been made. T his collection is the fruit of three years search through government archives and families. From an early age, Abkhazian children used to make their own toys with boys and girls making distinctively different toys: boys making guns and weapons from the branches of hazelnut trees and girls making dolls from clay and fabrics. Through 21/10 Pro-Arte Contemporary Art in Traditional Museums Various locations, for more information, tel. 233 00 40, www.proarte.ru. This annual festival, which began in 2000, is comprised of a series of exhibitions throughout St. Petersburg over the course of the month. The main goal of the festival is to develop a relationship between traditional culture and contemporary art and to encourage the modernization of St. Petersburg museums. Artists will not only be from Petersburg, but from other parts of Russia and the world. Through October Okna (Win­
dow): Aleksandr Yakovchuk E-3, Regent Hall Business Centre, Vladi-
mirsky pr. 23, (MjDostoevskaya, tel. 33136 30. A collection of 70 black and white photographs from St. Petersburg artist Aleksandr Yakovhcuk. Exploring the idea of the window as a metaphor to see through to other, perhaps stranger worlds, his works are based on actual windows of St. Petersburg. y.rjC3 -*йав - t '*2&0'*' ' ^ ft p i w Ц tf Russia had no trains, what would Tolstoy have done with Anna Karenina? How would Lenin have returned to Russia in April 1917, sent back, as Churchill famously said, in 'a sealed train like a plague bacillus'? On October 30 Russia celebrates the 170th anniversary of the opening of the first public railway. Tsar Nicholas I was certainly looking after number one, when he decided its location - hejust wanted a quicker journey from the city to the Pushkin Palace in Tsarskoe Selo! by Isabel Stone ALL ABOARD! 19 Onwards and Upwards Ever since 1837, railway development has been a major focus in Russia, and in 1970 Soviet engineers got a little ahead of themselves with a wacky futuristic 'jet train' prototype! It reached speeds of 290 km/h in the tests, but sadly this ridiculous-looking machine ______ made it no further and the • R ^ H b t fragments now lie rusting away в з И г ^ ^ | in an old factory. Today Russia Н ^ Ч В! WrI k contains over 85 thousand bJ f k i l o m e t r e s of railway, and the _^^r I St. Petersburg-Moscow journey IE takes only 4 and a half hours * in the Air-200 train. As for the • future, on September 4 Putin ,^Ш Щ met with Vladimir Yakunin, head I of Russian Railways, to discuss a 13 trillion ruble program, which will run until 2030 and involves the construction of 30,000 km of new tracks around the country. Russia without Trains? Ludicrous! Trainspotting Before railways existed, people relied on an unreliable river and canal system; the water wasfrozen and impassablefor about five months of the year. The journey from Astrakhan on the Caspian Sea to St. Petersburg could take two years! The roads were even worse. In 1834 the country's first hard-surface road, the St. Petersburg-Moscow highway was finished, but even then the journey took 10 days! Royal Rails In 1835, Franz von Gerstner, an Austrian rail engineer with Pushkin-esque mutton chop sideburns, was enlisted to 0
provide Russia with a railway. Work began in March 1836 and in November, the Tsar and his family were among the lucky passengers to be pulled on an exciting voyage up and down the five kilometres of completed track. On October 30 1837, Gerstner himself jumped on the controls to drive the 26 km trip, with a huge audience of ministers and officials. Work on other lines began soon after this triumph; the 647 km St. Petersburg-Moscow line (allegedly designed by Nicholas I by drawing a line on a map between the two cities using a straight-edge and a pencil) was completed in 1851 - the journey took 22 hours. By 1899, the Russian railway network had 53,200 km of track. The Big Slog In 1891, railway engineers braced themselvesfortheir biggest challenge yet - the famed Trans-Siberian Railway. It took 25 years to build and is the third longest continuous railway in the world - 9,288 kilometres, spanning eight time zones and the journey takes a week to get to Vladivostok Travelling through Moscow, Yekaterinburg, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk and Irkutsk, the train stops for 20-30 minutes every 3-4 hours. Usually everybody is desperate to leap out for some fresh air (carriages are often overheated to 26degrees!) On the platforms, swarms of babushkas await, selling pickled vegetables, pies and beer. People say that the smoked fish on sale at the Lake Baikal stops is the best snack you will find all week! Beware of the fierce supervisor, or provodnits(a) that manages each carriage with an iron fist. Whether or not you're a genuine trainspotter, you're bound to be impressed by Petersburg's two outstanding railway museums. The Museum of Railway Technology at the converted Warsaw Railway Station (now home of the 'Var-
shavsky Express' shopping mall), has a collection of over 80 locomotives including the S-68, the type of steam engine that transported the first Soviet government from St. Pe­
tersburg to Mos­
cow in 1918. There is also a diesel locomotive built in 1948, with the slogan, 'Head to Communism' painted symboli­
cally across the front. Recordings of railway sounds are played in the background for authenticity, and as you walk down the plat­
form in the open-air, you start to feel like you have walked onto a 1930s film set! The Central Museum of Railway Transport of Russia also houses an impressive collection of steam engines and carriages, and a selection on bridge building. The materials here are widely used by historians, researchers and film studios. Champagne and Fireworks! On October 30 at Vitebsky Station (see map D-4) there will be a ceremony for the opening of a statue of Gerstner, sideburns 'n' all. Other events will be held at Tsarskoe Selo, including the departure of a vintage train, which will carry veteran railway employees along the historic route. Special exhibits and photograph montages dedicated to the event will be on display in the Central Museum of Railway Transport. Central Museum of Railway Transport of Russia D-4, Ul.Sadovaya 50, (M]Sadovaya. tel. 31514 76. • Open 11:00 -17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission 20-70Rbl. Museum of Railway Technology Nab.Obvodnogo kan.118. MBaltiiskaya, tel. 768 20 63 • Open 11:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission Foreigners 80-150Rbl, Russians 20-40Rbl. For further information on events, telephone 768 73 33. October 2007 го WHERE TO STAY Holiday MClub ST. PETERSBURG HOLIDAY CLUB ST. PETERSBURG A short walk from the Hermitage Museum, Holiday Club St. Petersburg offers an entirely new five-star SPA hotel experience. Enjoy the finest health and beauty services, and take advantage of the most innovative conferencing and business services. With the grandeur of Russia's former Imperial capital as inspiration, Holiday Club St. Petersburg takes you to an exclusive world of leisure and pleasure where your every need is met. HOLIDAY CLUB ST.PETERSBURG OFFERS: • 278 spacious and well-equipped rooms • 6 restaurant outlets • Excellent conference facilities • Fascinating Wellness World including Luxurious Spa, Day Spa, Beauty salon, Sauna & shower world • Fitness Center HOTEL WILL OPEN IN OCTOBER 2007 SPA & WELLNESS WORLD IN EARLY 2008 Holiday Club St. Petersburg; Birzhevoi pereulok 2-4; 199004 St. Petersburg Sales office: +7 812 335 22 05 e-mail: info@shotels.ru; sales@shotels.ru www. holidayclubhotels.ru We have selected the best places in town for you to choose from. Prices include breakfast and VAT (18%) un­
less otherwise stated. Cream of the crop Ambassador D-4, pr. Rimskogo-Korsakovo 5-7, M Sen-
naya pi., tel. 33188 44, www.ambassador-hotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and ancient district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya pi). Le Vernissage, the bright, eccentric circular restaurant on the ninth floor has great panoramic views. Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets and large flat screen T Vs. T hey also have a tour agency and currency exchange, not to forget the 16m pool and juice bar! Excellent disabled facilities, security and underground parking • 255 rooms (248 doubles 6400Rbl, 15 suites 8700 - 11200Rbl, 1 apartment 25500Rbl, 1 Presidential 52600Rbl). Extra bed 950Rbl (only for Suites and Apartments). Breakfast (6O0Rbl) and VAT not included. Visa support and registration free of charge (1500Rbl cancel­
lation fee applies). Э Ща ШШЕ ШЙ Э а ® •••• Corinthia Nevskij Palace Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 57, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 380 20 01, www.corinthia.ru. Friendly staff and a delightful atmosphere here. Refurbished to a high standard in an elegant and seductive style; the junior suites are ample, with sliding partitions, while classic suites offer everything you need. For those who like to unwind, the smart room is recommended as it has a leather massage chair. There are four restaurants and the Landskrona res­
taurant may well offer the best roof-top view in town. • 284 rooms (193 singles 11880Rbl, 40 doubles 12960Rbl, 25 Deluxe 12960Rbl, 8 Junior Suites 19800Rbl, 14 Smart Busi­
ness 11880Rbl, 1 Presidential Suite 108000Rbl). Breakfast (999Rbl) and VAT not included. Extra bed 1800Rbl. Visa support and registration free of charge. ( D® ©ЩЗ Е ) ®(E<S>QD©a© ••••• Grand Hotel Europe D-3, ui. Mikhailovskaya 1/7, (M)Nevsky pr., tel. 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope. com. Nothing short of a palace. Each room here is an amal­
gam of classic Russian elegance and modern liveability. Oc­
cupying the full city block, the Grand has it all, from the original art-deco detailing, to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms and plush room outfittings. There are also five top notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar and for fine din­
ing, L'Europe with its stained glass art deco interior, the Mez­
zanine Bar, with its atrium oozes elegance and bustles with atmosphere. • 301 rooms (89 Classic Standard 11400Rbl, 123 Classic Superior 12600Rbl, 58 Junior Suites 16500Rbl, 24 Classic Suites 27000Rbl, 7 Executive Suites 48000Rbl). Breakfast (12O0Rbl) and VAT not included. Extra bed 2100Rbl. Visa support 1500Rbl (refundable on arrival) registration free of charge. Щг З^ ЭЕ®( @®( Е1 Э§ а ® •* ••• WHERE TO STAY Opening in October! Holiday Club St. Petersburg V.O. Birzhevoy per. 2-
4, tel. 33522 00, www.holidayciubhotels.ru Finland's largest hotel group, Sokos opens their first hotel, the Holiday Club St. Petersburg in the second half of October. This brand new hotel with 278 rooms on Vasilevsky Island was inspired by the island's historic environment and is located in a 19th century building of original brick. Aimed at the culturally minded travel market, the hotel also has a Wellness World scheduled to open in early 2008, with eight types of sauna. • 278 rooms (9000 -16120Rbl). Breakfast (900Rbl) not included. Symbol key (*} Air conditioning (*) Casino (£) Child friendly {§) Internet (+) Fitness centre (D Restaurant g) Sauna (g Animal friendly [eel Credit cards accepted 52 Conference facilities (*} Facilities for the disabled (p) Guarded parking (§) Non-smoking rooms (M) Nearest metro station g Swimming pool a® Wi-Fi connection ' Hotel Astoria D-3, UI. Bolshaya Morskaya 39, M Nevsky pr., tel. 494 57 57, www.roccofortehotels. com. This five-star has a bustling lobby where you'll find the library, the glamourous Kandinsky Bar and the Rotonda Lounge - charming for afternoon tea. The marble interior of the hotel is original, including the Winter Garden room which is magnificent. Bedrooms are well-equipped and modern in design, made with 100% natural materials like wood and linen. The presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the Astoria's original collection and incredible views of St. Isaac's. • 213 rooms (174 doubles 12160 - 17325Rbl, 12 Junior Suite 23275Rbl, 22 Senior Suite 47250Rbl, 5 Presidential 112000Rbl). Extra bed 1400Rbl. Breakfast not included (700 - 1050Rbl.) Visa support and registration free of charge. (j§ Б2Ш® Й В ФЙЩае ••••• Novotel E-3, UI. Mayakovskogo ЗА, (M]Mayakovskaya. tel. 3351188, www.novotel.spb.ru. Centrally located just off Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern and bright. T here is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent to the lobby and the rooms are new, modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art conference rooms and a fitness centre. • 233 rooms (singles €175-230, doubles €195-250, Junior Suite €225- 340, Presidential Suite €400 - 500). Breakfast not included 648Rbl, extra bed 720Rbl. Visa support free of charge, registration costs lRbl per person per day. (1®гЭШЗЕШ(В<5>(Е!Э<» • * * • Radisson SAS Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 322 50 00, www.stpetersburg. radissonsas.com. In this central 1730's building the well-
trained staff take a professional yet personal approach and the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites have stylish glass panelling and most rooms have comfortable arm chairs and tall arched windows. There's the lovely renovated Barbazan Restaurant serving international cuisine. Breakfast offers a 'grab and run' service (if you leave before brekkie opens) and the lobby bar is a pretty corner room, with windows on all sides. Fitness centre includes standing solarium, Canadian wood sauna and Jacuzzi. There are ample conference and boardroom facilities. • 164 rooms (116 singles 770ORbl, 30 doubles 9450Rbl, 12 Junior Suite 11900Rbl, 5 Senior Suite 15050Rbl, 1 Presidential Suite 27300Rbl). Extra bed 1190Rbl. Breakfast (840Rbl) and VAT not included. Visa support and registration free of charge. (10[М](1)(1](Эв>(К)@сгв • •••• St. Petersburg In Your Pocket 1200 rooms with sea or city view 4 _•••! refill 111 Wellness & Spa centre with 100 treatments 15 types of massage Best congress hotel in St Petersburg -A Water amusement park with real ocean waves 15 min to city centre. Fantastic venue for conferences, seminars, celebrations and fun. 3 restaurants with various cuisines and 2 bars open 24 hours. Park Inn Pribaltiyskaya 14 Korablestroiteley str. St.Petersburg 199226 Russia T: +7 (812) 329 26 26 F: +7 (812) 356 60 94 info.pribaltiyskaya©rezidorparkinn.com www.parkinn.com.ru parte inn October 2007 • WHERE TO STAY Easy Hotel Booking +7(812)913-49-22 www.netspb.ru/en info@netspb.ru It is not so easy to find a good hotel in an unknown city. We help you t o save ti me. ^ j j Address ЛШЯ Hotel Chain Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Hotel D-з, ui. Pochtamtskaya 4, (MjSadovaya, tel. 380 40 00, www. marriott.com/LEDBR. Though smaller than otherfive-stars, it is no less grand. The elegant decor is a feast for the eyes. Highlights include the stunning views and the glorious Canvas Restaurant. All rooms are boutique class, the two-level rooms are especially sumptuous, with entrances on two floors. Floor six has a friendly cafe-bar with a terrace where you can view the domes of St. Isaac's at eye level. Two rooms are avail­
able for people with disabilities. • 102 rooms (76 doubles 6600 - 9500Rbl, 26 suites 15000 - 36000Rbl). Suite prices include breakfast. Deluxe room doesn't include breakfast (840Rbl). Extra bed, visa support (2000Rbl cancellation fee is applicable), registration free of charge. (Щ 0 ^ 3 © Щ S ЭЁШЩрв * * * * * Upmarket Casa Leto D-3, UI. Bolshaya Morskaya 34, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 600 10 96, www.casaleto.com. Casa Leto is a stylish boutique hotel close to the Hermitage and St Isaac's. Owned by an English-Italian couple it provides personalised service, which makes you feel at home. The interior retains many 19th century elements, including original plasterwork and antiques. The rooms are large and come with all the facilities you would expect. Good all inclusive price structure (internet, breakfast, international calls and refreshments included)! • 5 rooms (doubles €150 - 205). Extra bed €35 -
55. Invitation €15, registration free of charge. @j)[cc](fl) g) (@ ®r j ) S«* * * * Ermitage Hotel D-3, UI. Millionnaya 11, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 571 54 97, www.ermitage.spb.ru. This little pearl is located only a five minute walk from the world famous museum and feels like a private home. When entering you'll find yourself in the intimate living room which leads to the upstairs bedrooms. It is possible to book the whole hotel for your private company. Great personal attention. • 4 rooms (2 singles 3900Rbl, 2 doubles 5400Rbl). Extra bed 900Rbl. Breakfast (500Rbl), Visa support 600Rbl, registration free of charge. @ В В @ в ® 0 Online hotel bookings ^ ^ Need to book a hotel room but Д\ don't have time to find out what is ^ ^ ^ L - J L available? Visit the Address Hotel • B ^ k Chain website and let their consul-
Ж Я Р tantsdothehardworkforyou.You E^^^^^k can choose a specific hotel or just ЩГ^ Л ^ш submit your requirements and they ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ come back to you within twenty minutes with a booking confirma­
tion or suggestions. The service works primarily through the internet although phone bookings are accepted but only when you are trying to find a room for the same day. The service isfree. Address Hotel Chain tel. 913 49 22, www.netspb.ru • Open 09:00 - 20:00. Park Inn Pribaltiiskaya A-3, UI. Korablestroiteley 14, iMjPrimorskaya. tel. 329 26 26, www.parkinn.com.ru. The imposing exterior still has the Soviet look but the man­
agement outlook is ultramodern. Rooms are comfortable, if a little on the beige side. Extensive facilities include seven restaurants, conference rooms, Wellness Centre, gym, and the Indoor Aquapark to splash about in. • 1200 rooms (114 doubles 2950 - 3100Rbl, 40 Junior Suites 4800 - 5250Rbl, 20 Duplex Suites 9300 - 9750Rbl). Extra bed 1200Rbl. Visa sup­
port and registration free of charge (1500Rbl cancellation fee is applicable). U S I ^ O S E X C E S S 0 ® •••• Park Inn Pulkovskaya PI. Pobedy 1, (MjMoskovskaya, tel. 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com.ru. Located ten minutes from the airport, Pulkovskaya is very friendly, has diversefacili-
ties, including the ever popular Paulaner brewery restaurant and grand dining halls. Rooms are comfortable, with large windows and beds overlooking Victory Square. • 840 rooms (90 singles 4375 - 4725Rbl, 724 doubles 5250 - 5600Rbl, 26 suites 8925Rbl). Extra bed 1020Rbl. Visa support and registra­
tion free of charge (cancellation fee of 1700Rbl is applicable). и®ШЦ(Е)®(Е(§>[Ю@§ав) •••• Smolninskaya Hotel Ul.Tverskaya 22, (MjChernyshevs-
kaya, tel. 576 72 62. A perfect meld of modern European style and Russian traditions, a marvellous renovation. From the bonsai trees to the silk wall-paper, the new-look Smolninskaya is comfortable yet modern and funky. Exquisite dining and function rooms show the same attention to detail evident throughout the rest of the hotel. • 53 rooms (singles 2500Rbl, doubles 3000Rbl, apartments 8200Rbl, Suite 4100Rbl, Luxe 4100Rbl). Extra bed 1500Rbl. Registation free of charge. WHERE TO STAY St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mid-range Azimut Hotel Saint-Petersburg D4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1. [MjBaltiiskaya, tel. 740 26 40, fax 740 2717, azimu-
thotels.ru. T his hotel, previously known as the Sovetskaya, has 18 floors, 900 rooms and four restaurants and a nightclub. The tallest building in the historical part of the city, if you do get up to the eighteenthfloor, there are amazing views across the cityscape. Steady yourself with a drink at the bar before heading back down to earth. • 900 rooms (singles 1600Rbl, Twin 2100 - 4200Rbl, Apartment 5500 - 7000Rbl). Extra bed 400Rbl. Visa support and registration free of charge. Щ ^Ш\Ш E <5> LD @0® * * * Matisov Dornik C-4, Nab. reky Priazhky 3/1. |M]Sennaya pi., tel. 495 14 39, www.matisov.com. Found in a quiet, leafy location approximately ten minutes walk from Teatralnaya Ploshchad, the Matisov is cosy andfriendly. Cateringfor business travellers and tourists alike, the rooms are comfortably appointed and not fussy. They offer a full range of services including an in-
house tourist agency. • 46 rooms (23 singles 2100 - 270ORbl, 19 doubles 2700 - 3000Rbl, 2 Luxe 4050Rbl, 2 Studio 3300Rbl). Extra bed 750Rbl. Visa support 500Rbl. Registration free of charge. ЕКЩа)(Е® Е Ш * * * Nevsky Fbrum E-3, Nevsky pr. 69, (MJMayakovskaya, tel. 333 02 22, www.forumhotel.ru. With a bold and modern attitude, this kind of note deserves to thrive. Generously sized rooms are outfitted with individual artistic designs and trendy murals screen-printed onto the large bed heads. Mostly the interior is done out in dark wood and fabrics of beige, terracotta and cream. T he contemporary La Presse restaurant serves French and Italian food with great view onto Nevsky. • 29 rooms (8 Deluxe 4500 - 5100Rbl, 4 Designer Room 6300 - 6900Rbl, 5 Standard 5400 - 6000Rbl, 2 Suite 8400 - 12000Rbl). Extra bed lOOORbl. Visa support 300Rbl, registration free of charge. В Я И в в Ю в Nevsky Hotels E-3, Nevsky pr. 90, (MJMayakovskaya. tel. 703 38 60. With a collective total of 247 rooms, Nevsky Hotels offers a choice of comfort in six locations in the heart of the city. Nevsky Hotels 90 and 91 are located on Nevsky Prospect itself, while the other four are in a cluster around Bolshaya Konyushen-
naya. Hotel Moika 5 is the most lavish, featuring very spacious rooms. Nevsky Hotels also offer a selection of apartments in the centre of St. Petersburg. • 247 rooms (singles €135 -160, doubles €160 -180, Presidential Suite €220 - 230). Extra bed €20. Visa support €30, registration free of charge. ( ©ШИФОН) ®» щ*ъ* * Nevsky Hotels Group Comfortable hotels & luxury L k apartments in the center Щ m T of Saint-Petersburg • i?| (812)7033860 www.hon.ru Our Hotel (NasHOTEL) C-3. VO, 11-ya Uniya 50, (MJVas-
ileostrovskaya, tel. 323 22 31, www.nashotel.ru. In a courtyard on the lovely Vasilievsky Island, this eight floor hotel is one of the largest business hotels in the historic area. Designed and built with the modem guest in mind, rooms are fully equipped with large windows or French doors. • 58 rooms (9 singles 4400RDI, 39 doubles 5100 - 5500Rbl, 10 triples 6100 - 6300Rbl). Extra bed 1085Rbl. Visa support and registration free of charge. dSMSESXB» CA/A LETO P R I V A T E H O T E L As recommended by The Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Marie Claire, Elle Magazine, Cote d'Est, Lonely Planet Large luxurious rooms, personal service, complimentary refreshments, free internet & telephone Just some of the reasons why many travel agents and clients think we are the best small hotel in St. Petersburg October 2007 El) WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY Pushka Inn Hotel D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 14, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 312 09 57, www.pushkainn.ru. With dark wooden floors and high-ceilings, this place retains its ok) riverside atmosphere. Completely renovated, it has an original 1810 stone staircase and antique wall lanterns. Doubles on the top floor have skylights and the family apartment is very well equipped. • 35 rooms (3 apartments 8200 - lOOOORbl, 5 Single 3600Rbl, 17 Double Standard 6200 - 6500Rbl, 8 Double Comfort 6500Rbl, 1 Superior 7200Rbl). Extra bed 1300Rbl. Visa support 425Rbl, registration free of charge. ЩЩШ] (BfflJeB Vesta Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 90-92, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 27213 22, www.vestahotel.spb.ru. Expect a warm welcome here - this hotel has a calm, intimate atmosphere. All rooms have been renovated to Western standards. Only the staircase, with its fading mosaics, reveals something of the family that once built it. Located in a pretty courtyard, it is well protectedfrom the bustle of Nevsky. • 14 rooms (3 singles 2400-2950Rbl, 9 doubles 2950 - 3350Rbl, 2 apartments 3600 - 4100Rbl). Extra bed 740Rbl. Visa support and registration free of charge. (ЮГЛШШШ Mini hotels Antique Hotel Rachmaninov D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, (Mj Nevsky pr., tel. 327 74 66, www.hotelrachmaninov.com. The former-home of the composer Rachmaninov is now a charm­
ing hotel which prides itself on its interesting heritage. All bedrooms have the antique decor that is so reminiscent of the nineteenth century; the spacious, parquet-floored 'Lux Room' being par­
ticularly authentic being the composer's own room. • 27 rooms (singles 2850Rbl, 21 doubles 3400Rbl, apartments 4960Rbl, Luxe Rachmaninov room 7400Rbl). Extra bed lOOORbl. Visa sup­
port €10, registration free of charge. g§) (5ЩЩ1 (§)№> Eat with the stars Hotel Astoria Breakfast has gone one better at the Davidov. In addition to their classic buffet, there is now an unlimited choice of hot dishes, personally preparedfor each guest. Feast on French toast and pancakes or for a more hearty start to the day opt for sausages, bacon, grilled tomatoes or an omelette. Novotel Try out the sizzlingf lavours of Thai cuisine as authentic Thai chefs take over the Cote Jardin restaurant for a week in Oc­
tober. From October 20 -28, a veritable feast of dishes includ­
ing spicy prawn soup with straw mushrooms and lemongrass and spicy glass noodles with roasted duck salad. Rounding out thisfeast filled menu are the desserts, go for the steamed egg custard with pumpkins. Delicious! Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Russians have always had a passion for hunting and the plentiful rewards that this pursuit brought to the table. October brings these delights to the Canvas restaurant as their Game Festival begins October 03. Running through­
out the month, the Game Festival features game from the Novgorod region, direct from the hunter himself and prepared by Russian chef, Ruslan Burmistrov. Hotel Vesta www. vestahotel. spb. ru - historical city center - comfortable rooms - visa support and registration - transfers - additional travel services phone + 7 812 272 13 22 Your Home during your stay in St.Petersburg Art-Hotel Trezzini C-3, VO, Bolshoy pr. 21, (MjVasileo-
strovskaya, tel. 332 10 35, www.trezzini-hotel.com. The Trezzini combines an artistic atmosphere with friendly welcoming service. T he hotel has 17 spacious well-lit rooms, with carnival masks and photograph exhibitions also on dis­
play. Located behind the pink Andreevsky cathedral, a short walk from the main pedestrian street and metro. • 17 rooms (2 singles 2080 - 2720Rbl, 10 Classic 3200 - 3840Rbl, 5 Suite 3520 - 5120Rbl). Extra bed €20. Visa support €20, registration free of charge. Щ ^fccl(a|gR) B&B Randhouse D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, flat 17/Per. Grivtsova 11, flat 83, M Nevsky pr./Sen-
naya pi., tel. 314 63 33, www.randhouse.ru. Named after the St. Petersburg bom American writer Ayn Rand, B&B Randhouse has a network of three mini-hotels in the centre of the city. Rooms are modern and comfortable, and a fully equipped kitchen is available for guests. Hot tasty breakfasts are served - always a good thing! • 16 rooms (1 single €50 - 85,10 doubles €45 - 85,1 triple €95 -110, 3 Twins €85). Extra bed €15. Visa support €25, registration included, fjglccl Comfort Hotel D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 570 67 00, www.comfort-hotel. ru. Wonderfully situated at the Hermitage-end of Nevsky Prospekt, but friendly enough to feel like home, the hotel is ideal for business people and tourists. The standard rooms are well-decorated in neutral, calming tones and the suites are spacious and well-equipped. The newly installed elevator eases the journey to the top floor. • 14 rooms (6 doubles 3300 - 3600Rbl, 6 Twin 4100 - 4700Rbl, 2 Suite 5900Rbl). Extra bed 750Rbl. Visa support US$10, registration free of charge. Ц Э ШН О Е ^ а ё 1 Grand Mark Hotel C-3, Galernaya ul. 12, M Nevsky pr., tel. 570 05 36, www.grandmarkhotels.com. A basic and pleasant hotel with charming staff. The Grand Mark Hotel has corridors with exposed brickwork, and simply planned but ful­
ly equipped rooms. It is centrally located, near to St. Isaac's Square, but on a quiet street with parking possible. There is a useful communal kitchen and also a sauna for rent and the hotel can assist with arranging tickets and excursions. • 5 rooms (2 Standard 2900 - 3300Rbl, 2 Junior Suite 3200 - 3600Rbl, 1 Suite 3700 - 4100Rbl). Extra bed HOORbl. Visa, registration free of charge. (#) ®[cc](j«] <§) ©0£> Herzen House D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 57150 98, www.herzenhotel.ru. Her-
zen House is at the top of four floors on the lovely Bolshaya Morskaya. Simple and convenient with 20 rooms across one floor, the twin superior is airy and spacious with a choice of views onto the courtyard or the street. Single rooms have very large single beds. There are tiled terracotta floors and a good buffet area for a hot breakfast of porridge, sausages and omlettes. • 20 rooms (6 singles 3000 - 3400Rbl, 14 doubles 3400 - 4000Rbl). Extra bed 750Rbl. Visa support 300Rbl, registration free of charge. ( D S ^ S E H J O B Comfortable Mini Hotel dose to the Bronze Horseman Ul. Galernava 12 tcl./fax: 570-05-36, 570-05-34, +7-92XA26-13-96 www gTandmarkhoteis.com Kristoff Hotel Kristoff Hotel E-3, Zagorodny pr. 9, (MjVladimirskaya, t el. 571 66 43, www.kristoffhotel.com. Comfortably located just five minutes away from Dostoyevskaya metro station, the Kristoff is easy to find and offers a bright, cheery welcome. Rooms are all spotlessly clean and inviting, each with a generous amount of space to relax. The hotel has its own cafe next door to which all guests and members of the public are welcome. • 15 rooms (doubles €100 - 120, Deluxe €110 - 130). Extra bed 720Rbl. Visa support 720Rbl, registration free of charge. (1[м](а)(§)(1)ав Na Bucharestskoy Ul. Bucharestskaya, 59, (MjK-
upchino, tel. 974 87 35, www.grif.spb.ru. This hotel is situated in a quiet neighborhood just south of the city centre. Close to Pulkovo airport, it consists of several rather new but elegant buildings around a courtyard. All rooms are different and spacious. Furniture is basic but new and clean. The hotel is easily reachable by public transport and taxi. • 18 rooms (singles 1300 - 2600Rbl, doubles 1800 - 3380Rbl). Extra bed 600Rbl. Visa support and registration free of charge. Цс](р]ав Nevsky Inn D-3, Kirpichny per.2. apt.19. code 19B, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 972 68 73, nevskyinn.ru. The ideal location - just off Nevsky Prospekt, between St. Isaac's Square and Palace Square - makes it great value for money, considering its standards. It occupies one floor of a mid-19th century building, but its interior is new. Turn left onto Bolshaya Morskaya, then take your first right - the door is no.2, next to an arch. Dial code 19B and go to the fourth floor. • 12 rooms (singles 1700Rbl, doubles 2300Rbl). Extra bed €20. Visa support and registration €25. Ц)[сс]<§)ав> /л П I С Mini Hotel ™Ыь £ Na Bukharestskoy, 59 - Only 20 minutes from the airport о Comfortable standart and VIP rooms -- Underground Parking -' Cosy Cafe о Sauna Adding colour to life Perfectly located just 5 km from Pulkovo International Airport, our hotel has 840 comfortable rooms as well as a wide variety of restaurants serving Bavarian, Mediterranean and traditional Russian cuisines. A free shuttle bus transports guests into the heart of the city. Our conferencing facilities can cater for up to 600 delegates and are equipped with the latest facilities as well as a WiFi zone. Park Inn Pulkovskaya 196240 Russia Saint Petersburg Pobedy sq. 1 T: +7(812) 740 3900 F: +7 (812) 740 3913 www.parkinn.com.ru parfcjnn St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 RESTAURANTS 27 NORTHERN LIGHTS The Northern Lights Bed & Breakfast A great home-like atmosphere right on St Isaac's Square Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 50, St Petersburg +7 (812) 571 9199, +7 (812) 570 0334 mfo@nlightsrussia.com Northern Lights C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 50, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 5719199, www.nlightsrussia.com. This one-floor hotel is just off St. Isaac's Square and sits at the top of an antique staircase in a 150 year old building. The hotel sparkles with cleanliness, the staff are warm and friendly. The dining room is intimate and there are four lovely bedrooms, the deluxe room comes with a Jacuzzi. • 5 rooms (2 Single €50, 2 Double €65 - 75,1 Deluxe Suite €100). Ex-
tra bed €15. Visa support €10, registration free of charge. (ИШЩ)(Е<8>вв CITY REALTY A Western owned and managed company Daily to long term rentals Historical city center locations Bed and breakfast options Visa support VACATION APARTMENTS Tel: (+7 812) 570 63 42, 570 47 09, 315 91 51 Email: info@cityrealtyrussia.com. www.cityrealtyrussia.com Apartments City Realty D-3, Muchnoi per. 2,1st floor, M Sennaya. tel. 570 63 42, www.cityrealtyrussia.com. T his American owned company will be able to assist you with whatever range of accommodation you are looking for. Not only do they have a good selection of apartments, but they can also find you a place to stay in one of the numerous minihotels and bed and breakfasts. • Open 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Visa support US$25. Ш NEVSKY I NN Hostels Г31НО ЛГч|СЭ B R B A K F A S www.nsvsfyintt.ru CI TY CENTRE B+B A 2 MINUTE WALK FROM THE HERMITAGE Polikoff E-3. Ul. Karavannaya 11/64, Apt. 26, |MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 314 79 25, www.polikoff.net. A perfect little mini hotel, cosy and professional. In a great location, just a couple of minutes from Gostiny Dvor, Polikoff has fifteen rooms spread over two floors and a bright and airy kitchen in which to have breakfast before you take on the city. Rooms are unpretentious, tasteful and very comfortable, maintaining the warm and cosy feel. Enter from the street through the brown door with a Eurobalt sign and then continue through the interior glass door. • 15 rooms (1 single 2880 - 3500Rbl, 12 doubles 3960 - 4680Rbl, 2 Luxe 5900Rbl). Extra bed lOOORbl. Visa support €35, registration free of charge. ( 1 ] ( м ) ( © ]!с с ] [ д ) ( § ) с е ) CUBAHOSTEL In the heart of St. Petersburg Informal fun and cool atmosphere Backpackers hostel i n Sai nt-Petersburg Kazanskaya str. 5 info@hihostel.ru +7(812)9217115 www.cubahostel.ru Cubahostel D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5/43, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 9217115, www.cubahostel.ru. With a central location and fully renovated dormitories, the Cuba Hostel is now even more ideal for budget travel. Located a mere minute from Kazan Cathedral, visitors will find themselves smack in the middle of all the bars, restaurants and shops they could hope for. The nine dormitories can sleep up to forty people, there's a 'pink' room for girls only and a communal kitchen area. Enter to the right of the old fashioned red British phone box. • 9 rooms (9 Dormitories 450- 600Rbl). Prices are per person per night. Visa support and registration €30. ®(©][сс](а)ав Polikoff Hotel In the centre of St. Petersburg. 15 comfortable (Double and Twin) rooms available Deluxe Rooms come equipped with Jacuzzi, DVD, DBL and TWIN; the organization of business meetings, breakfast is included Tel.: +7 (812) 314-79-25 E-mail: pollkoff@mall.ru www.polikolC.net Shelfort C-3, VO, 3-ya Liniya 26, (MjVasileostrovskaya. tel. 323 36 26, www.shelfort.ru. The rooms here are very com­
fortable, with dark green wooden interiors and the lobby is large and pretty. Two luxury suites have original log fire places which still work! Located in a unique old building and the whole area is particularly reminiscent of Venice. • 15 rooms (4 singles 1950 - 2250Rbl, 9 doubles 3150Rbl, 2 Suite 4500 - 4700Rbl). Extra bed 750Rbl. Breakfast not included (150Rbl). Visa support 340Rbl, registration free of charge. (ЙЩ)® Diverse and mouth-watering restaurants are cropping up all over the city. Prices indicate average price of a main course. Menus in English available unless otherwise stated. Russian Chekhov D-l, Ul. Petropavlovskaya 4, (MJPetrogradskaya, tel. 234 45 11. Chekhov allows you to step into a Russian country house at the beginning of the nineteenth century, just as if you were stepping into the world of author Anton Chekhov. A piano player serenades as waitresses rustle past in their long gowns. Popular with Russians and foreigners alike, reser­
vations are recommended. • Open 12:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). Korchma D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 69, (MjSadovaya, tel. 312 0518. This restaurant-pub is a real find. It is designed like an old tavern of the tsarist period and it has a warm atmosphere and unique interior. A wonderful Russian menu with superb prices, including different kinds of vareniki (Russian dumplings), salmon and caviar blini (pancakes) and lamb pelmeni (ravioli) served with sour cream. • 24 hours. (350Rbl). П ЮО В Ш Ohotnichya Izba D-4, Lermontovsky pr. 30, (MjTechno-
logichesky In., tel. 714 60 88. A fun place filled with all sorts of hunting trophies where you are greeted by a stuffed Russian bear. Ohotnichnya Izba means Hunting Hut, so expect lots of meat including different kinds of game, deer, boar and bear. They also do great fish pancakes and salads. The restaurant is within walking distance of the Mariinsky Theatre, St. Nicolas Cathedral and the Hotel Azimut. • Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02O0, Sun 1300 - 24:00. (300Rbl). vHvTNICHYIi IZK xquisite hunting menu Шиши barbecue Ellntiil fc Roiiin style decer [live i»ic fjf.30.T!l,Fll.:7H80 88 Soviet Chic Lenin@Zhiv E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, (M|Maya-
kovskaya, tel. 275 35 58. Industrial Constructivist at its best, crammed with books and memorabilia, and waitresses in uniform. One room is like the interior of a submarine, while the front room is sunnier with windows up to the street. A great range of international beer on tap. • Open 24hrs(300Rbl). (ЦОЩЕЙ] NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 312 37 22. Nep Cafe is dripping with 1920's style, complete with cabaret. Delicious fish and meat are exquisitely presented; the kitchen is the support act to the main cabaret event. Sit close to the stage and you'll get drawn into the entertainment! • Open , Mon, Tue 12:00 - 2300, Wed, T hu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (350Rbl) Admission for shows 230Rbl. SSBl BODuD* 1 Russian bar & restaurant Traditional Russian & бигореап Food Disco every day! Wed - Sun live music (country, retro, j a ^ & klues) Thu: Women's day 22.00-01.00 unlimited Pree champagne Рог girls Fri & Sat: f rom 23.30 Ni ght Program with striptease, Ш and real Russian entertainment! 8 di f f er ent choices of beer Open 24hrs f Restaurant Korchma • Nabere^hnaya Клпл1л Griboedova 69 I [ Tel. 312 0518 vw Cabaret shew/ i r r t l r e st yl e of 20's of t ri e l ast cent ur y Russian & European cuisine 37, Moyka emb., ST.Petersburg (Comer of Dwrtsovaya sg.) Tel: (812)571-7591 (812)312-3722 WM NBftESTORAN.RU St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Symbol key (D Air conditioning (Л Live music ® Child friendly (§) Non-smoking areas ® Casino @ Internet Q Outside seating Ш Credit cards accepted Щ Take away (5) Facilities for the disabled (@ Guarded parking (M) Nearest station ® Animal friendly Yolki-Palki D-3, Malaya Konyushennaya 9, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 57103 85, E-3, Nevsky pr. 88, Щ Mayakovskaya, tel. 273 15 94. There are more than five Yolkis in the chain throughout the city. Yolki Palki is quaintly touristy, but we like it, it's good value, the service is quick and the interior is cute (they have a plastic forest). They do a good range of buffet salads, meat dishes and some nice, not too creamy Russian cakes. • Open 07:00 - 05:00. (220Rbl). (Ц®[м](0<§)Е)а@ Russian & European Canvas restaurant (1st floor Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic Hotel) D-3, Ul. Pochtamtskaya 4, (M)Sadovaya, tel. 380 40 00. What isnt splendid here?Canvas serves irrestiblefood that appears on your plate almost as a work of art, prepared by award winning Russian chef, Ruslan Burmis-
trov. Next to the surprising menu the restaurant has a set menu with good optional choices. If you like culinary masterpieces, go for it! • 0penl2O0-23O0.(1000Rbl). § ( § @@5 1 ®Й) в Cafe Jam E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 12, (MjChernyshevskaya, tel. 719 69 33. It's Russian, it's Scandinavian, it's Korean - in fact Cafe Jam has it all! Danish hosts Alexander and Berit do their utmost to serve you good food for a good price. It has a funky, stylish interior; with a seasonal art exhibition and live music on Wednesday and Friday. An ideal place for intimate talks or to invite your (business) partner to get ac­
quainted on a higher level. • Open 12:00 - 23:00. (250Rbl). efeMBUKSXE Hermitage Cafe D-3, Dvortsovaya pi. 6-8, General staff building, [MjNevsky pr., tel. 970 88 00. Hermitage Cafe offers quality Russianfood in a wonderfully renovated dining space. Aiming to hit that fine balance between the comfortable and the chic, they've managed to retain the antique feel of the environs but they've grooved it up by rendering the walls with a splash of hip lime paint. Add in some candelabras and a subtle lighting scheme. Come here to chill out in one of the best people-watching spots in the city - two of the three dining areas look directly out onto Dvortsovaya Ploshchad. The third has a sweet courtyard view and an intimate bar. • Open 12:00 - 24:00. (300Rbl). SSfeODa Le Borshch E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 314 00 56. The interior resembles a spacious and modern living room and the cuisine is not your average Russian, it's Light Russian. This basically means Russian style food with an injection of other cuisines like French and Japanese to liven things up, dishes like borshch with prunes and beetroot carpaccio with goats cheese. Service is attentive and prices reasonable, but we need to ask why is the music so loud you have to shout just to converse? • Open 12:00 - 01:00. (300Rbl). ЩЩз® Makarov Restaurant E-3, Manezhny per. 2, (MjCher­
nyshevskaya, tel. 327 00 53. Such a lovely place, with wonderful atmosphere. As soon as you walk in, you feel at home immediately. Our waiter, a very tall, absolutely endearing man brought us pencils to draw with as we relaxed watch­
ing the hustle and bustle in the kitchen. Russian cuisine is on offer as well as a breakfast selection and a well thought out childrens menu - all tastefully prepared and presented. • Open Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24Ю0, Sun 12:00 - 24Ю0. (350Rbl). (1®[Ш1)(3 Marius Pub E-3, Ul. Marata 11, (M)Mayakovskaya, tel. 315 48 80. Experienced travellers around Russia will get a cultural shock if they visit Marius Pub. Why? Because of the good service and the quality food is worth the money. It's cosy and feels more like a restaurant than a pub. although they do brew their own (Marius) beer! The extensive menu offers a tempting selection of European and Russian dishes. • Open 24hrs. (300Rbl). (ЮЩЩЗСЙав Sadko D-4, Ul. Glinki 2, |M)Sadovaya, tel. 920 82 28, fax 570 08 34. Sadko is out to revamp the image of Russian dining as more than buckwheat and blinis. Stunning interior, hip atmosphere and staff go well with traditional Russian food styled with a modern twist. The menu is presented to you inside a matryoshka doll. • Open 12:00 - 24:00. (5O0Rbl). Caucasian & Central Asian Cuisine An unquestionable bonus of St. Petersburg's Soviet past is the restaurants from the former Soviet republics, provi­
ding more than a dash of spice and colour. Cat Cafe E-3, Ul. Stremyannaya 22, (M] Mayakovskaya. tel. 57133 77. Cat (Ket in Russian) is an atmospheric little Georgian cafe behind the Corinthia Nevskj Palace Hotel. It's a favourite spot with locals, tourists and notable pop celebrities as well. The food is great and promptly and prettily served which is probably why it's almost impossible to get a seat in the evening without booking ahead. • Open 12:00 - 24:00. (400Rbl). i)®[w](E<S) Gorny Oryol D-2, Aleksandrovsky park l a, MlGorkovs-
kaya, tel. 232 32 82. Next to the Zoo you'll find the Moun­
tain Eagle Caucasian restaurant, with a cosy part, a larger section for groups, and a great outside terrace with a view onto the Fortress. The food is superb and comes in large portions. The spicy Georgian kharcho soup, the shashlik and the home made wine are fabulous. • Open 12:00 - 24:00. (400Rbi). U®( @ 5) Ne Goryui D-3, Kirpichny per. 3, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 571 69 50. The treasures of Georgian cuisine await! Cheery Georgian cafe Ne Goryui (Don't grieve) takes its name from a bittersweet 1969 Soviet comedy. There is definitely no need to grieve here, as this place is a breath of fresh air; great central location, two bright rooms, swift service and delicious plentiful menu, khachipuri of more than eight variet­
ies, filling soups, as well as shashlik. • Open 12:00 - 24:00. oooRbi.) щт\В Sakartvelo C-3, VO, 12-ya Uniya 13, (M|Vasileostrovs-
kaya, tel. 947 78 78. Boisterous little Sakartvelo, whose name means 'land of the Georgians', has above average friendliness and to die for food. You won't be able to stop eating the khachipuri (12 different varieties) and the sublime aubergine with walnuts. The homemade dry Georgian wine served from bowls tops everything off. • Open 12:00 -
23Ю0. (260Rbl). USES) Russian Scandinavian ЩауЬе the cosiest place- in town] lltisincss lunch 1ГО rub from noon to 4 Live Jazz duo \\ t<l and I'ri _ Open daily noon to 11 pm RUeeva St. 12, Met r o C°hernvshevska\ii Tel 719 69 33 We have a [i kitchen from the original Russian Beef Stroganoffto traditional Danish dishes prepared b) our Danish headchef! St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 3 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Oktoberfest means beer! РЕСТОРАН _ХРАДЪ ЛЕТРОВЪ Best Beer In Town / Universitetskaya emb., 5 (near Lomonosov monument) tel.: 326 01 37, fax: 327 01 33 office@die-kneipe.ru www.die-kneipe.ru Tbiliso D-2, PS, Ui. Sitninskaya 10, (MjGorkovskaya, tel. 232 93 91. High stand Georgianfood in a bright, airy restaurant, behind the Sitny Market. Frequent SI Petersburg travellers remember this place well as theirfirst introduction to Caucasian food. Tasty lobio bean dishes, khachapuri (cheese bread) and eggplants filled with walnuts. • Open 1200 - 01O0. (ЗСКЖЫ). ЦШЯЕиВ® Chinese Aquarium D-2, Kamenoostrovsky pr. 10, [MjGorkovskaya, tel. 326 82 86. Long time favourite Aquarium delivers tasty Chinese food and sushi in an authentic Asiatic environment (the interior is a replica of a Chinese Imperial Chinese city). Our advice: make a real Chinese rice table. Order as much as pos­
sible and attack it together!! • Open 12O0 - 2400. (ЗООЯЫ). DIMES) Pekin D4, UI. Sadovaya 60/33, (MjSadovaya, tel. 310 1141. Fresh and tasty is the order of the day, and with all your standard favourites; sweet and sour pork, fried calamari, and of course spring rolls. T he interior is sweet, they have some comfort­
able cabins to hole up in while you struggle with your chopsticks. • Open 1200 - 23:30. (300Rbl). Ц)(*ШО)<§> Fine dining Dickens D-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, (MjSennaya pi., tel. 380 78 88. The popular Dickens pub has a sophisticated restaurant upstairs. An open fire place greets you, along with giant imperial oil paintings, tall windows and candle lit tables - it looks like a posh pub and a stately home. T here's a warm atmosphere and diverse menu, all food is of a high standard and luckily they serve large portions. We loved the 'Chicken Livers braised with Apples'. • Open08O0-02O0.(450Rbl). BHf f l EJGB St. Petersburg In Your Pocket It is a common misconception that 'Oktoberfest', the Beer Festival which has been held in Bavaria (Germany) since 1810, is only celebrated in this unique location. In fact from late-September to early-October, beer-related festivities are held all over the world, and St. Petersburg is no exception! Bier Konig D-3, UI. Gorokhovaya 40, (MjSennaya, tel. 310 95 85. This beer bistro goes for the ancient beer hall look. It has 20 different draught beers and do decent German sausages with tasty potatoes and cabbage. Until October 7, they will serving special brews from Munich and holding giveaways. • Open 11:00 - 05:00. (300Р.Ы). Grad Petrov D-3, Universitetskaya nab. 5, (MjVas-
ileostrovskaya, tel. 326 01 37. This trendy beer restaurant serves a lighter version of classic German food, and possibly the most attentively brewed beer in town. Especially for Oktoberfest, they have been work­
ing on a brew from imported Munich hops.. Mmmm that special aroma! • Open 12:00 - 01:00. (350Rbl). Paulaner (Park Inn Pul kovskaya hot el, 1st floor) PI. Pobedy 1, iMjMoskovskaya, tel. 740 39 32. This Oktoberfest, they have their own mini-festival, with special brews, German folk musicians, and even drinking competitions for the real enthusiast. Paulaner also has great Bavarian style food, prepared by master chef Wolfgang Kollman. • Open 12O0 - 01Ю0. (300Rbl). Solod and Khmel (Mal t and Hops) E-4, UI. Marata 56/58, Щ Ligovsky pr., tel. 764 88 89. Modern Rus­
sian beer hall with vaulted ceilings, great atmosphere and enough space for all; beer aficionados, football fans and stylish food. • Open 12:00 - 02:00. (300Rbl). g§B)(g Tinkoff C-3, UI. Kazanskaya 7, (M) Nevsky pr., tel. 718 55 66. Enjoy one of eight types of beer brewed here atfashionableTinkoff, order Russian borshch, Italian pizza or even the everpresent sushi! • Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (400Rbl). ШЙ^ и Ви В Teatro D-4, UI. Glinki 2, (MjSennaya, tel. 900 44 88. Teatro is spacious and calming with highly domed ceilings and gentle lighting. Choose between broad upright sofas, intimate tables or the raised lounging area with a plasma screen showing films. The menu is divided between a broad European selection and a sushi menu. It is a perfect venue for high calibre post-theatre cuisine. • Open 12:00 - 24:00. (300Rbl). ВВ1( Ё French Bistrot Garcon E-3, Nevsky pr. 95, (M]PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 717 24 67. An atmospheric restaurant which regularly imports producefrom France, Garcon offers a little soupcon of French real­
ity. T he menu changes seasonally every three months. T hef resh-
f rom-theoven croissants and continental breakfast are not to be missed! • Open 0900 - 01O0. (500ЯЫ). Щ &ЩЦ IS Chez Jules E-2, UI.Gangutskaya 16, (MjChemyshevskaya, tel. 275 49 53. Quaint and informal Chez Jules is a reprieve from so many overly sophisticated dining options littered around Nevsky. T heir revolving door menu changes according to what ingredients are fresh and available. Huge plates of pasta, hearty salads and vegetables are just some of the options. • Open 10O0 - 22O0, Sat, Sun 12O0 - 22O0. (400Rbl). | § Ц 0 Ж Jean Jacques Rousseau D-2, PS, Bolshoy pr. 54, (MjPetro-
gradskaya, tel. 232 99 81. Traditional French cafe style food in a gorgeous red and mirror clad interior. Try the Croque Monsieur or Madamfor a real Frenchfoodf ix. Each table comes with pencils to draw on the tablecloth with, so you might see your artwork pinned up in the entranceway. • Open 10O0 - 24O0, Fri, Sat 10O0 - 06O0. (300Rbl). § | ® ЩЕ 0 Greek Greek Taverne Oliva D-3, UI. Bolshaya Morskaya 31, (M|Nevsky pr., tel. 314 65 63. Oliva will take you away from St. Petersburg and make you feel like you're in Athens. T he fresh tasty salads at the help-yourself salad bar will only add to the good vibes you get on entering. T he main courses and the traditional Greek live music provide the feeling of blissful, relaxed summer evenings. • Open 1200 - 2400. (400Rbl). (U®rME®(S Indian Tandoori Ni ghts D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, (MjSadovaya, tel. 312 87 72. Not to be confused with Tandoor which is almost next door, for fine-dining Indian style, Tandoori Nights is the place to go. The menu is mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and unique tenderness. T he decor is deep red and in the entrance you can see some real Indian marriage chairs; beautiful and elaborate. • Open 11:00 - 24:00. (300 Rbl). Ц®Гм](Р]Щ Indonesian Sukawati D-3, UI. Kazanskaya 8, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 312 05 40. Of course you shouldn't mix an Indonesian menu with Japanese food as Sukawati does (if you know your history!), but this restaurant - the first Indonesian in St. Petersburg - is a fantastic diversion from the usual Asian standards. T he Indonesian lumpia (spring rolls) and rice platters (nasi goreng) are good choices. Ask for some spicy sambal if you like it hot. • Open 12:00 - 05:00. (300Rbl). Щ®Ш|ВиВ®и11 27 Bolshaya Konyushennaya Restaurant Pizzeria Under the crystal cupola - Salad bar and Pasta ' Pizzas prepared for you right under your eyes tel./fax:+7(812)312 4700 Daily from 12.00 p.m. Genuine Italian pizza October 2007 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS ^'TALI ANP\^ AUTHENTIC ITALIAN CUISINE FROM REAL ITALIAN CHEFS 23 Millionnaya Ul., St. Petersburg (near the Hermitage) Tel: (812) 315 8673 e-mail: daalbertone@gmail.com www.daalbertone.ru International Barbazan (Radisson SAS Royal Hotel) E-3, Nevsky pr.49/2, [M)Mayakovskaya, tel. 322 50 00. This restaurant has a really stylish, bright design, with modern art adorning the walls and the funkiest wine storage system in town. There's an active, sophisticated atmosphere and is reasonably priced, with unique dishes. T he food here is divine, and the location is prime. • Open 07Ю0 - 23:30. (lOOORbl). Ц®[Щав Fl yi ng Dutchman D-2, Mytnenskaya nab. 6, (M) Gorkovskaya, tel. 336 37 37. Having dinner, lounging AND working out on a boat?! It's all possible at the Flying Dutchman. The sailing ship, a model of the 18th-century barque Amsterdam, has a very good restaurant on the top deck and a stylish bar-disco area. There is a wonderful view of the St. Petersburg skyline. • Open 10000600, (800ЯЫ.) B®Hf f l ( BuB( 3QDe Italian Da Albertone D-3, Ul. Millionnaya 23, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 315 86 73. For good pizzas and other Italian food head to Da Albertone, which is tucked away at walking distance from the Hermitage. The restaurant definitely of­
fers more than your average pizzeria and the service is also worth mentioning. There are various choices for all kinds of budgets, small or large. • Open 11:00 - 02:00. (300Rbl). (D®№]<§)0S)a!S La Strada D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 27, (M)Nevsky pr., tel. 312 47 00. La Strada is a well-established restaurant with quick and friendly staff - a rare combination in this city. La Strada's pizzas are a favourite with the In Your Pocket team. If you like fish try the Pizza La Strada, which is thick with seafood. There is also a children's nursery and a 20% discount on take-away orders. • Open 12:00 - 23Ю0. (560Rbi). ( д н ф ш Palermo E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 764 37 64. This lip-smacking restaurant has a whop­
ping menu with delicious food, Italian salads, soups, pasta, vegetables, meats and fish dishes, from a real Italian cook. If the friendly atmosphere doesn't make you feel as if you're in Palermo itself, the colourful wall painting will! • 12:00 until last guest. (500Rbl). НИЗШЕЙ) ® Sardina E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 6, (MjDostoevskaya, tel. 314 05 97. Sardina is bubbling with atmosphere and sparkling service amid a freshly hewn timber metal interior. The food is great, with quality fresh ingredients prepared by Italian chef, Mario Lopes, who lets flavours speak for themselves. From the starter cheese plates, to the slew of fresh pastas and meat dishes, to the zippy chicken in gorgonzola. Bellissimo! • Open 1200 - 05O0. (300Rbl). Solntse E-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14, (MjVladimirskaya, tel. 315 99 86. With a bright upmarket interior and competitive prices, Solntse (Sun) does not disappoint. Begant and delicious, there is a large choice of pizza and pasta and some fine meditterean salads. Sunny and cosy, you feel like you're really dining under the Italian sun. Given this city's weather, this can only be a promising thing. • Open 12O0 - 00:30. (300Rbl). Ш(*ШШЙ) VOX E-2, Soiyanoy per. 16, M Chemyshevskaya. tel. 27314 69, fax 272 68 80. One of the hits among the Russian upper classes although you would not tell from the restaurant's exterior (but note the expensive cars!). The food is stylish, with a good choice of antipastos, It's so popular the cook must get dizzy at times! Reservations recommended. • Open HOO - 01:00. (бООЯЫ). d@(w](3f f l cE Japanese Dve Palochki E-3, Ul. Italianskaya 6, Щ Nevsky pr., tel. 570 62 62. This chain of superior Japanese restaurants in five locations around the city has the same high service standard across the board. We recommend the baked crab rolls with hot shitake mushroom sauce. • Open 11O0 - 06:00. (180Rbl). 9ВШВ Matsuri Moskovsky pr.73, (MjFrunzenskaya, tel. 252 77 44. Opening October 19th, this brand new Japanese restaurant will be a welcome addition to this area of Moskovsky prospekt. Matsuri, which means festival in Japanese, is an upscale dining venue which specialises in individually prepared Japanese dishes and even offers authentic Japanese breakfast. • Open 08O0 - 02:00. (450Rbl). Щ ВВЙ6 <§) Mexican Tres Amigos E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 25, (MjDostoevskaya, tel. 340 26 85. With a wide selection of tequila and cocktails, a supervised kids room and a Latin dance show (Friday and Sunday nights), this is a great place to wind-down after a hard week at work. • 0penl2O0-01O0.(2O0Rbl). ®Щр)(Ей] Spanish Madridsky Dvor F-3, Comer Suvorovsky pr. 26 and 8th Sovetskaya 14, (M) PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 27120 94. T his is the most luxurious Spanish restaurant in town with a stunning interior. 'Madrid Courtyard' has both chilled out spots and fine dining tables. It's fun to look around, but it's the great authenticfood you're here for, amongst other delights, classic, black and vegetarian Paella. • Open 1200 until last guest. (400Rbl). ШМВШЙ) MATSUR-I THE RESTAURANT FROM JAPAN Saint-Petersburg MOSKOVSKY PROSPEKT, 73 tel.f+7 (812) 252-77-
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 4 "Шс&еь сшац &ut utitl at боте SAI NT PETERSBURG S BEST HOTELS it HotelsClub HERZEN HOUSE • • • 4fc Ill PIMK Herzen House Hotel Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25 190000 St. Petersburg tel.:+7(812) 315 5550 fax.:+7(812) 314 6406 info@herzen-hotel.ru www.herzen-hotel.ru Shelfort Hotel V0,3-ya Uniya 26, 199004 St. Petersburg tel.:+7 (812) 323 3626 fax.:+7 (812) 327 0984 hotel@shelfort.ru www. shelfort Matisov Domik Nab.rekyPriazhky3/1, 190121 St. Petersburg tel.:+7 (812) 495 1439 fax.:+7 (812) 495 2419 matisov@lek.ru www.matisov.com Pushka Inn Hotel Nab. reky Moiky 14, 191186 St. Petersburg tel.:+7(812) 312 0913 fax.:+7 (812) 314 1055 pushka@pushkainn.ru www.pushkainn.ru HOTEL NEVSKY FORUM TRE INI i'2Xe) ART-HOTEL (gXSXgXe) ШтМаае dtotel ПРИЮТ б/оТШЕЛЬНИКА Comfort Hotel Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 25, 190000 St. Petersburg tel.:+7 (812) 570 6700 fax.:+7 (812) 314 6523 info@comfort-hotel.ru www.comfort-hotel.ru Nevsky Forum Business Hotel Nevsky pr.69, 191025 St. Petersburg tel./fax.: +7 (812) 333 0222 mail@forumhotel.ru www.forumhotel.ru Art-hotel Trezzini Bolshoy pr. 21, Vasilevsky Ostrov 199004 St. Petersburg tel.:+7 (812) 332 1035 fax:+7 (812) 332 1036 sale@trezzini-hotel.com www.trezzini-hotel.com Ermitage Hotel Ul. Millionnaya 11, 191187 St. Petersburg tel.:+7 (812) 571 5497 fax.:+7 (812) 312 9628 info@ermitage.spb.ru www. ermitage. spb. ru • RAOIMANINOW ANTI QUE- HOTEL Antique Hotel Rachmaninov Ul. Kazanskaya 5 tel.:+ 7 (812) 327 7466 Fax.:+7 (812) 571 7618 office@kazansky5.com www.hotelrachmaninov.com RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS Steak Korova Bar E-3, Ul. Karavannaya 8, (MJGostiny Dvor. tel. 314 73 48. With cattle skins covering the walls, the Korova (cow) Bar is a classy restaurant where carnivores can enjoy their thing: meat! Vegetarians dont worry, Korova has many salads, fish dishes and desserts too. • Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03Ю0. (400Rbl). ЩЩЩ^Ш Thai Mops E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, |M)Mayakovskaya, tel. 572 38 34.The first Thai restaurant in St Petersburg is truly special. The hot and spicy menu focuses on dumplings, salads, spring rolls and soups to start and noodles, rice, wok and curry for mains. • Open 13:00 - 01:00. (300Rbl). Editor's pick: La Cucaracha The lost cockroach By Isabel Stone If the name of this Mexican restaurant were written in English, it wouldn't be nearly so appealing. Curiosity got the better of us though, and we had to see what 'The Cockroach' had in store. The menu • is much as you would РПкм»^ ." I expect at a Mexican I restaurant: enchila-
Ш I das, burritos and of V ^ ж course the omnipres-
^ ^ ™ entfajitas. We shared a vast portion of nachos as a starter - drowned in chili con came and cheese, it was, as elegantly described by my companion, 'an extremely satisfying mess'. I agreed. A promising start. As a main course, with a little encour­
agement, she ordered the Apache steak, 'from cows freshly killed by our chief-cook at La Cucuracha.' The meat, despite the ideas conjured up by its title, was disconcert­
ingly square, tough and chewy, and the jacket potato was under-cooked. I was luckier. A Mexican restaurant can only truly bejudged by its chicken fajitas, so I did just that. La Cu­
curacha passed the test - the chicken arrived, still sizzling in a grill pan with fried onions and peppers. The tortillas were good too, what didn't pass the test was the tricolor of sauces. The salsa lacked kick and the guacamole resembled mayonnaise with green food col­
oring. Despite feeling very full, we still had that second stomach for dessert. My companion, again driven by intrigue, chose the Aztec Tower, more pyramid than tower, the two tortillas came stuffed with fruits and laden with enough ice-cream and whipped cream to raise a walrus' cholesterol. It was, she said, surprisingly good. I went for the fried bananas, which came in a light syrup, and were just the ticket. La Cucuracha isn't new, so sadly its flaws can't be put down to teething problems. All the same, this cockroach is about as far from home as it could be (10, 098 km) and it gave us a good run for its money. La Cucharacha E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 39, iMjGosti-
ny Dvor, tel. 710 40 06. • Open Mon - Thu, Sun 12:00 - 01Ю0, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05Ю0. (350Rbl). ®ШШ St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Marks Interior: 8 Food: 6 Service: 7 Atmosphere: 8 Cost: 1400Rbl Ukrainian Khutor Vodograi E-3, Ul. Karavannaya 2, |M|Nevsky pr, tel. 570 57 37. An exquisitely presented restaurant sporting an enormous tree inside, recreating a traditional Ukrainian village house. They offer an extensive, hearty menu to tempt any palate. Try the home-made sausages and the black bread with 'salo', the traditional Ukrainian delicacy made from salt-cured pig fat. • Open 11:00 - 01:00. (300Rbl). Ц ®[м]@ (E 5) ® Shinok E-3, Zagarodny pr. 13, M Dostoevskaya. tel. 571 82 62. Robust and juicy meat snacks, filling stews, wattle and daub interior, neon lights and friendly English speaking staff combine to give this Ukrainian restaurant its cheery atmosphere. Home-made sausages and gorilka, the fire water alcoholic spirit, are flavours of the month here. • Open 11:00 - 05:00. (390Rbl). Щ® Щ Best breakfasts After all, breakfast is the most important meal of the day... Dickens D-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, (MJSen-
naya pi., tel. 380 78 88.A big mug of coffee and a good choice of brekkies to start the day heartily. Eggs and bacon come with three eggs sunny side up in a sizzling dish. For those needing their early morning (hangover) fill, there's a huge English break­
fast available including bacon, sausages and baked beans! • Open 08:00 - 02:00. B'fast 08:00 - 17:00 (250Rbl). ®ГЖ](ЕЩ Russkie Bliny E-2, Ul. Gagarinskaya 13, (M|Cher-
nishevskaya, tel. 279 05 59. We wanted to keep this place a secret, but it's just too good. Quite frankly the best bliny (pancakes) and blinchiky (stuffed pancakes) in town. • Open 11:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Shamrock C-3/4, Ul. Dekabristov 27, (MjSa-
dovaya, tel. 318 46 25. We were impressed with the range of different breakfasts on offer. The Irish breakfast was quite good (unlimited coffee is a great idea). • Open 09:00 - 02:00. B'fast 09:00-14:00 (250Rbl). ШШ1 Calendar Confusion If, when you opened the October issue of In Your Pocket, you were expecting it to be packed with references to the 90th anniversary cel­
ebrations of the October Revolution, then hold your horses. According to the Julian Calendar, the dating system which was in use in Russia until 1918, the Revolution occurred on October 24th, hence the name. However when Rus­
sia adopted the Gregorian Calendar, the date was converted by adding 13 days, to November 7th. All events relating to the Revolution will therefore take place around this time, and you will have to wait until the November issue to find out more... Vegetarian Idiot D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, Mj Sadovaya. tel. 31516 75. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable antique furniture, eclectic tid bits and second-hand books, Idiot is worth visiting just for a look. The Russian vegetarian cuisine is OK, but most people come to Idiot to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. As soon as you sit down, you're given a complimentary mini-
shot of vodka; then, during happy hour (18:30 -19:30), you get two drinks for the price of one, plus your complimentary vodka. We think this is pretty good actually. • Open 11:00 - 0100. (300Rbl). (Ц(*)[Ш§)а!в> Kashmir E-3, Ul. Bolshaya Moskovskaya 7, (M|Vladi-
mirskaya, tel. 314 23 00. Don't come here expecting your classical Indian cuisine. It's far too hippy for that. They do esoteric Indian vegetarian fare, all exquisitely presented. Yes, fruit decorations are a part of your main meal garnish! They've got samosas and dahl, raita, soy steaks and a lot of dishes we can't pronounce (even though there is an English menu). They serve French, Chinese and Chilean wine and a range of Chinese teas. • 11:00 until last guest (200Rbl). ПбИВОНВ Morkovka C-2, (PS) Bolshoy pr. 32, (MjChkalovskaya, tel. 233 96 35. Hip and groovy vegetarian style - the Little Carrot is swanky. Sit down in an orange bucket chair, surrounded by green timber walls, and enjoy a complimentary carrot juice. It'll put you in the mood for perusing the very healthy menu which is littered with gems, from carrot patties (of course!) to red beet salad with prunes and cheese sticks in raspberry sauce. If the vegetarian menu seems too much, they also have six different fish dishes and mouthwatering desserts. • Open 24hrs. (200Rbl). (D®M]<§>LD<^> Cafes & Tea-Houses Cafe Le Goga E-3, Ul. Razhyezhaya 6, Щ Vladimir-
skaya, tel. 314 75 74, www.legoga.ru. A cosy little cafe that is in the cross-over zone of cafe-restaurant-bar. It has great atmosphere, great cakes, great sofas... and a very smart candy striped interior with orange, brown and yellow. Lots of sweet treats, including home made chocolate truffles, cheesecakes and candies and a choice of four types of coffee. • Open 11:00 - 06:00. (250ЯЫ). ffi|SuS®GB« Black and White C-3, V. 0.6-aya Liniya 25, Щ Vas-
ileostrovskaya, tel. 323 38 81, www.blackwhite. ru. For coffee lovers, this cafe offers a choice of Illy or Lavazza in a slick cafe based around the black and white theme. Located on the main pedestrian street of Vasilevsky Island, there are two main dining spaces. Their menu consists of quick salads, sandwiches and Russian pancakes. • Open 08:30 - 01:00. (180Rbl). Ц®[М]<§)аГн) Stolle Cafe D-3, Konushenny per. 1/6, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 312 18 62, C-3,1-ya Linya 50, (M|Vasileo-
strovskaya; C-4, Ul. Dekabristov 19 and 33, ЩSen-
naya PI. Stolle's big attraction is their pies, which are quite possibly the best in St. Petersburg. Sweet fruit-filled pies or savoury pies with mushrooms, fish and meat all get washed down nicely with a coffee (or two or three). Trying to recreate the feel of early 20th century St. Pe­
tersburg, the relaxing atmosphere is soothing and addic­
tive. • Open 09:00 - 21:00. (150Rbl). (p)® ffi® October 2007 NIGHTLIFE 39 Russian and Turkish baths in the centre of city. Unforgettable impressions, individual lease hall. We recommend it for family pair. SPA TREATMENT: soaring Ш piling with honey and salt Ж massage wi th ice m head massage foot massage Ш hands massage Ш soap massage classic massage Ш relax massage medical massage wi th therapeutic mud-baths Mevsky pr. 98, 3 floor, t el. 273-9932, 273-9933 • A T H - H O U S E ^ -
vvw w. afrodita-spa.ru i мич—ш. i The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. On a night out in this wild town, you'll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere! Bars & pubs Bristol Pub E-3, Ul. Marata 36-38, (M Ligovsky pr., tel. 713 24 42. This place is a little too cosy for its own good. It feels more like a real English pub than most laying claim to the title (despite the fact that they have sushi as well as a gourmet selection of pub food). Cigars and imported whisky, ales English and otherwise are the order of the day and the service is assured without being overbearing. • Open 11:00 - 03:00. (350Rbl). ЩЩБ City Bar E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 20, M Chernyshevs-
kaya, tel. 448 58 37. A home away from home to expats, in its funky venue the bar is a local hub. Relaxed and friendly, it's been designed with the independent traveller and expat in mind, so there's internet access and TV, there's all day breakfasts to soak up the night before, and hand-ground burgers to prepare you for the night to come. • Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs (250Rbl). Щ ЩB B f f l QD ffldB Dickens D-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, M Sennaya pi., tel. 310 63 88. Tis British 'island' has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior whiskys (so says our Whisky Specialist). T he snacks and food are delicious as is the atmosphere. T here's a restaurant on the second floor, so fill up first and then head down for a good drinking party. • Open 08:00-02:00, Mon, Sun 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. (450Rbl.) (DDMSQS) Elvis E-3, Ul. Mayakovskaya 56/13, (MjChemyshevs-
kaya, tel. 273 67 97. The King of Rock n' Roll is alive and kicking in this bar. You will find yourself completely surrounded by pictures, records and old newspaper clippings with Elvis Presley in every one of them. • Open 10:00 - 06:00. Admis­
sion concerts Thurs - Sun (lOORbl.) (ЦЩ Hemingway D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 3, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 310 70 07. Charismatic Hemingway was himself no stranger to bars. Or eating for that matter. If he had come here, he'd be more than happy with this four room newly renovated establishment, inspired by the larger-than-life writer. As large as a Cuban barn and decked out in mahogany, leather and wood, the Hemingway is going for the carefree mood of a night in Havana. Cue the Parisian tunes and Cuban inspired dishes. • Open 12:00 - 05:00. (400Rbl). Liverpool E-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, (M)PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 579 20 54. More than just the Beatles, the Liverpool plays blues, pop and regular English rockin' live music every night from 21:00. Owner, Geiri, from Iceland has also over­
hauled the bar and restaurant and maintains a happy, friendly atmospheric hideaway. The comfortable surroundings inside the bar are as cosy as always. • Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 03:00. ЩВВЩШ Mol l i es Irish Pub E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, M Vladi-
mirskaya, tel. 570 37 68. St. Petersburg's first Irish pub, located just off Nevsky, offers just what you would expectf rom a bar like this. Mollie's serves up a wide range of beers, good food and music (although it can be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats and the odd tourist. • Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. ( ЦШВ CE fflOB BREAKFAST from 8 a.m. DICKENS 1—кРЩ. ESTD. V,—+S 1999 Ъ TRADITIONAL BRITISH PUB & RESTAURANT ® CASK ALE & GOOD POOD Ь SKY SPORTS TV & BEER GARDEN 108 Font anka River Embankment tel. 380 78 88 L I V E B A N D S e v e r y e v e n i n g EXCELLENT VARIETY OF BEERS GRILL MENU SKY SPORTS, CANAL+ WI-FI, POOL PLEASANT ATMOSPHERE FREE ENTRANCE 100m FROM NEVSKIY PR. O P E N »U-TH 1I**-01** Maykovskogo st. 16 Tel.: 579-20-54 www.liverpool.ru BUSINESS LUNCH 1 2 м - 16м HAPPY HOUR 1 7 м - 1 9 м [LIVERPOOL) \Stea6 Wouae . I'll be back October 2007 NIGHTLIFE i Oxford F-3, Nevsky pr. 105, (MjPI. Vosstaniya, tel./fax 61111 01. More like an upmarket New Orleans bar than anything to do with Oxford in England. Relaxed atmosphere, cocktail juggling barmen, comfy leather sofas and live music from T hursday to Saturday. T he Oxford does good light meals in comfortable surroundings. Settle in... • Open 11:00 -24O0. (Ц®[«]Ща® Ring 0 Bells E-3, Ul. Kolokolnaya 4, (M)Vladimirskaya. tel. 764 22 89. The latest addition to the St. Petersburg English Pub Club in the city has comfy booths, a wooden interior and red brocade drapes all conspiring to give the air of authenticity. The homely long bar which welcomes you as you step down and the range of draughts on tap top everything else off. What makes it really nice is the location, in the shadow of Vladimirsky Cathedral. • Open 12.00 - 05:00. 350Rbl. SBB SevenSkyBar E-3, Ul. Italyanskaya 15, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 449 94 62. As the name suggests, this trendy 5th floor cafe is on top of the extremely luxurious shopping centre Grand Palace. Surprisingly it is not too expensive and the food tastes rather good. We tried the Gourmet and Fusion platters, both consisting of three different courses on one plate. Enjoy the view and the DJ! Enter Grand Palace from Italianskaya ul. and take the elevator on your left to the 5th floor. • Open Sun-Thurs 12:00 - 02O0, Fri-Sat 12O0 - 06.00. (400Rbi). Щт[В[Ва® Gay & Lesbian Although the scene is smaller than you'd expect for a city of 5 million, a handful of clubs cater for the gay community. Cabaret Nab. Obvodnogo Kanala 181, jMJBaltiis-
kaya, tel. 575 4512. Famous and fun, this gay club is housed in a suitably eccentric old Soviet Culture Palace, not far from Baltiisky station or Hotel Azimut. Colourful transvestite shows always start at 02:30, so dance with the drag queens! Girl friendly, straight or lesbian. • Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon - Thu. Admission Fri, Sat 200Rbl. ( K g f f l ® Central Stati on D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1/28, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 312 36 00. Downstairs the Japanese-European restaurant is reminiscent of a French boudoir. A grand staircase connects to the seven upstairs bars and dance floors, with lots of video moni­
tors, drag queens, comfy sofas and dark rooms. • Open 18.00 - 06:00. Admission 100 - lOOORbl for women, 0 - 300Rbl for men. (*Щ](1)(Д Greshniky D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 28a, (gjGostfny Dvor, tel. 5704291. Fun and tacky! Gresh­
niky (sinners) is a large club with a medieval theme and dungeon decor. Shows, DJs and an internet and video bar. • Open 18:00 - 06.00 Admission men 40 - lOORbl, women 200 - 350Rbl. Tri El F-3, ul 5-aya Sovetskaya ul. 45, |MJPI. Voss­
taniya, tel. 710 2016. The city's only lesbian club with a stylish bar area, large dance floor and pool tables. Tri El is women only, except Thursdays and Fridays. • Open 22:00 - 05:30, Tues 18:00 - 23:30, Thu 19O0 - 23:30. Closed Mon. Admission free, Fri-Sat for women 200Rbl, for men 300Rbl. (D(P) Shamrock C-3/4, Ul. Dekabristov 27 (Teatralnaya pi.), (MjSadovaya, tel. 570 46 25. This Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a buzzing atmosphere, 13 types of beer and very decent food. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of Russians and expats creates an enjoy­
able and unpredictable evening. There is live music every day. Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. We visited this pub for the first time in 1995 and still do-doesn't that say enough? • Open 09:00 - 02:00. (300Rbl). (ЛШЕьЕ Terra Cotta E-2, Gagarinskaya ul. 6/1, (MjCherny-
shevskaya, tel. 336 3014, www.terracotta.ru. Inspired by the Dine, Drink and Dance concept, here you'll find a winning combination of these three things. Terra Cotta has an extensive, expansive bar, and a marvellous menu. Original and delicious, you probably won't want to leave. The New Zealand lamb withfresh rosemary is a must, as is the Indonesian style chicken satay. • Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 - 03:00. ( К^ ШЩЩ The Other Side D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Konyushennaya 1, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 312 95 54. Combines those foods we've been missing (ah the divine smell of Thai spices) with a great atmosphere we can't stay away from. It's cosy with a more than healthy dose of old fashioned hospitality. The decor of this self styled 'refuge' has been personally styled by the two American partners, and the menu blends together Thai, Chinese and Mexican dishes. One of the few places to stock the Boston lager, Samuel Adams. • Open 12:00 - last guest ( ЦШ0 Tribunal Bar D-3, Ul Karavannaya 26, (MjGostiny dvor, tel. 314 24 23. The Tribunal is a hit with Russians and foreigners alike, and is situated in an accessible central location. There is lots of beer and the karaoke bar is a big success. Watch out for the scantily clad ladies dancing about on podiums. • Open 21:00 - 06:00. Admission Fri -Sat250Rbl. (Ц[Щр]<3) Tsinik D-3, Per. Antonenko 4, (MjSadovaya, tel. 312 87 79, www.cynic.spb.ru. Tsinik's interesting and, at times, lively crowd come here for the company, cheap drinks and good pub food. The music covers a diverse range and is largely dependent on who is running the bar that night. There are sometimes surprise performances, musical or otherwise. Try the house specialty: grenky (fried bread with garlic), which is responsible for that special Tsinik smell. • Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -06:00. ( Щ) ® » Hailing a 'taxi' St. Petersburg In Your Pocket 'Taxi' is a term to be used loosely in Russia. Although there are 'official' taxis, most St. Petersburgers hail ordinary cars. To foreigners, travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your arm. Girls have more luck stopping cars, but it's advisable for a male companion to jump from the shadows and hop in too. Always agree a price in advance ('Skolko?'); within the centre 50-150Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door in an angry manner and sometimes they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada ex­
perience. Try to avoid using very large denominations and asking for change. t he shamrzock mi sh bcm \*й J* 4 Hue Irzish music ** liue pnemieRship football 4 best steak in tocon Dekabristov Street. 27 Tel /Fax +7 (812) 570-46-25 www shamrock sob ru October 2007 NIGHTLIFE Playing in a bar near you... The Petersburg live music scene is healthy indeed. Local Beatles legends Z.A.R.O.K play regu­
larly at the Liverpool and Irish pub Shamrock remains the cradle for Russian and Celtic folk. The Other Side offers an eclectic mix of early music, post-folk and Cuban rhythms. Pictured left is Dobranotch, playing this month at Shamrock and The Other Side. Oct Band 02 Scheidenbach 2 02 Celtic City Experience 03 Mako 04 ZAROK 05 Los Ojos Negro 05 Chill Out Blues Band 06 Blues Clan 06 Dobranotch 06 Sunflowers 07 Anima Helicis 08 Igor Balakirev 09 Reddy Teddy 09 Dobranotch 10 Sunflowers 10 Dobranotch 11 Sveta Fedorov Band 12 Los Ojos Negro 12 ZAROK 12 Barbulators 13 Los Machetes 15 Igor Balakirev 16 Bahadur 16 Celtic City Experience 17 Piano and Vocal Duet 17 Russian Folk Music 18 ZAROK 19 Los Ojos Negro 19 Chill Out Blues Band 20 Octava E 20 Simba Vibration 20 Sunflowers 21 Anima Helicis 23 Alaska Kalanen 24 Piano and Vocal Duet 24 Sunflowers 26 Los Ojos Negro 26 ZAROK 27 Sunflowers 27 Yoel Gonzalez & Friends 28 Irish Folk Sessions 30 Nortes Time Venue 20:00 TOS 20:00 SHA 21:00 UV 21:00 UV 20:00 CJ 22:00 TOS 22:00 TOS 21:00 SHA 21:00 UV 20:00 TOS 21:00 UV 21:00 UV 21:00 TOS 21:00 UV 22:00 SHA 20:00 SHA 20:00 CJ 21:00 UV 22:00 TOS 22:00 TOS 21:00 UV 20:00 TOS 20:00 SHA 20:00 CJ 21:00 SHA 21:00 UV 20:00 CJ 22:00 TOS 22:00 SHA 22:30 TOS 21:00 UV 20:00 TOS 21:00 TOS 20:00 CJ 21:00 UV 20:00 CJ 21:00 UV 21:00 UV 23:00 TOS 20:00 TOS 20:00 TOS Cafe Jam (CJ) E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 12, (MjCherny-
shevskaya, tel. 719 69 33. • Open 12:00 - 23:00. (250Rbl). @( * ) ЩЁ) ( Б®( г Liverpool (LIV) E-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, (M]PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 579 20 54, www.liverpool.ru. • Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 03:00. Штфт Shamrock (SHA) C-3/4, Ul. Dekabristov27 (Teatral-
naya pi.), |M|Sadovaya. tel. 5704625, www.shamrock. spb.ru. • Open 09:00 - 02:00. (300Rbl). ( ЦШЁЙ) The Other Side (TOS) D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Kony-
ushennaya 1, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 312 95 54, www. theotherside.ru. • Open 12:00 - last guest (f )(7)0 Clubs Led Lemon D-3, Nab. kanala Griboedova 6, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 43814 50. A pity there isn't a webcam here. Be­
cause Led Lemon (Lemon Ice) is a club you want to watch and be watched in every night (if you are into that...) Next to the dance floor it has a rotating bar and the music varies between popular house and dance. Entrance with a club card only. Admission 150 - 250Rbl with membership card (get one for free from the club at 20:00 - 22:00). Admission free with VIP card (get for 3000Rbl from the club after 22:00). • Open Wed - San 22:00 - 06:00. ~ Magrib E-3, Nevsky pr. 84, (MJMayakovskaya, tel. 275 12 55. If you're not bothered by the prospect of being sur­
rounded by new Russians in designer clothes, then Magrib is for you. T his Moroccan themed club on Nevsky prospekt has an attractive interior and is full of glamorous types strutting their stuff. DJs play house and trance. • Open 18:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. Admission Tue free, Fri-Sat (300-400Rbl), Sun (200Rbl). £ О В 9 Ш Marstal l (Konyushenny Dvor) D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 5, (M)Nevsky pr., tel. 315 76 07. A big bronze horse at the entrance reminds you that in tsarist times this building was a stable. Entertaining erotic acts and competitions run continuously after 23:00. Beware of women's attention as your night could turn expensive real quick! Admission is free for foreigners, however you'll need to show your passport for free entrance. • Open 13:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 06:00. Admission 50-200Rbl. Money Honey D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 28-30, Apraksin Dvor 13, (MjSennaya pi., tel. 310 05 49. Located in the wilds of Apraksin dvor (an inner-city market), this wild west bar and dance club has cheap beer and a young crowd. There's live rockabilly music every evening, and the patrons - some of them dressed as cowboys - are known to get rough at times. Upstairs is the City Club. • Open 10:00 - 05:00. Admission daily after 19:00 (lOORbl), Fri-Sat women (150Rbl), men (200Rbl). S(B(S Red Club F-3, Ul. Poltavskaya 7, M PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 717 00 00. Red club is the venue for some of the better music acts that come to town. It has two main floors and a third balcony level. The ground floor has a stage with UV lights, dance-floor and sofas. When a decent band is playing, it fills up and gets a groovin'. • Admission 150 -600Rbl. (KBfflffl) Sport bars Football Bar E-3, Ul. Karavannaya 28, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 314 84 68. Conveniently located just off Nevsky prospekt, this where die-hard fans come to watch the big games. If you pay an admission fee, at least it assures you a seat. At other times, this is a regular restaurant and bar. • Open 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 0 - 200Rbl. sane Vegas E-3, Manezhnaya pi. 6, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 710 50 00, www.vegas.ru. Vegas is a large sports bar and casino complex with three big screens and numerous smaller ones (check out the fear and loath­
ing carpets!) • Open 24hrs. Admission 0 - 250Rbl. ИЮНЕ Шов Artsy / underground Dacha D-3, Ul. Dumskaya 9, (MjGostiny Dvor. This place gets really crowded during the weekend, but it also tends to be more fun. T he later the hour, the crazier the atmosphere, with people dancing and singing to the music spun by the DJs - music you're unlikely to hear anywhere else. The fact that it's small (and can get very hot) explains the crowd of people outside. The friendly, energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive. • Open 18:00 - 06:00. Admission Fri -Sat lOORbl. Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53 (Pushkinskaya 10 Arts Centre), M PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 764 48 57. A diverse and interesting crowd congregates at this dark, single-room club. On a busy night, it has a positively bub­
bling atmosphere, although you'll be pressed for a place to sit. On quieter nights, it's a relaxed place to listen to music, or try the table soccer. • Open 17:00 - 06:00. Fri-
Sat closed (break) 20:30 - 21:00. Admission for concerts 150Rbl. Ш0 Griboedov E-4, Ul. Voronezhskaya 2a, Щ Ligovsky pr., tel. 764 43 55. This literally 'underground' club is located in a bomb shelter and is definitely worth a look. The vodka is cheap, the crowd cool and the atmosphere intimate, but laid-back. Griboedov has a good habit of booking alterna­
tive bands and a diverse range of DJs. On Wednesdays the ever-popular DJ ReDisco spins Soviet retro tunes for the fun loving crowd. • Open 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 150 -400Rbl. GKEUQOQI Adult entertainment Golden Dolls E-3, Nevsky pr. 60, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 571 33 43. Beautiful Russian women show their best sides on an erotic cat walk. The club has a special menu featuring all the 'dishes' the girls can offer: table dances, soapy peep shows, showers... • Open 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 500Rbl before 24:00, 750Rbl after 24:00. Bfl Bffl ] MaximusD-3, Kirpichny per. 8, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 571 47 56. If the Roman interior doesn't impress you then the catwalk with dancers flying around iron bars certainly will. Aside from great shows, Maximus has a wide range of cuisine and an extensive wine list. • Open 19:00 - 06:00. Shows start at 22:00, Admission 700Rbl. SBKBQD Playgirls E-3, Ul. Karavannaya 9, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 740 10 32. Located in a basement, this club is pleasant, with a Japanese influence. They have strip shows throughout the night, and also a restaurant offer­
ing a selection of erotically themed dishes. You can order a selection from the 'crazy' menu, including dancing with the waitresses, table and private dancing. • Open 13:00 - 06:00. Admission 400Rbl (21:00 - 02:00), 300Rbl (02:00-06:00). §§BB Zabava Bar D-2, Mytninskaya nab. (boat), tel. 325 29 54. Zabava means 'pleasure' in Russian, and you're sure to enjoy this place (at least, we did). Beautiful Russian (and Ukrainian) girls get completely naked, but spouses don't have to worry, as the pleasure is harmless - although there are some secret private rooms in the ship's hull... Good service! • Open 21:00 - 06:00. Admis­
sion 800Rbl (ticket for 2 visits). (Ц[ЩР)<§№ St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 441 WHAT TO SEE If time is of the essence.., Don't miss these must-see St. Petersburg sights. The unsurpassed Hermitage Museum should be a priority. From the Winter Palace, cross the Neva River to the Peter and Paul Fortress with its assorted museums, parks and the cathedral where most Tsars are buried. Experience the vibrant (and violent) colours of Russian history and culture in the Russian Museum. Climb to the top of St. Isaac's colonnade for the city's best view. Spoiled for choice, museum-lovers can choose from the quirky and downright weird Kunstkamera to the warheads of the Artillery Museum. With St. Petersburg's preeminence in the annals of world literature, a visit to one of the me­
morial museums of Dostoevsky, Akhmatova or Pushkin completes any whirlwind visit. Whether enjoying the long days of summer sun or the blissful winter snow, unwind with a beer in the Summer Gardens or stroll around the city's beautiful parks and canals. Churches (orthodox) Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Mo-
nastirky 1, M, Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. 2741612, www. Iavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. T he St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia's greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. • Open 10:00 - 20O0. Daily services at the Trinity Cathedral 07.00,10:00 and 17:00. Cathedral of St. Nicholas D-4, Nikolskaya pi. 1/3, PSennaya pi., tel. 714 69 26. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg's most beautiful. In the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors' quarter, which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the patron saint of sailors, hence the reason locals call it the sailor's church.' T he two-storey Baroque building has low ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates on the Kryu-
kov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell tower. • Open 07:00 -19:30. Daily service 07:00,10O0, 1800. Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, (M)Moskovskaya. tel. 373 6114. When a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking building was finished. It served as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his murder. The church served as a museum during Soviet times but was revived as a place of worship in 1999. The palace currently houses an elderly person's home. • Open 09:00 - 19O0. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon), Sat also 1800. Sampsonievsky Concert! 10/1019:00 E-2, Sampsonievsky Cathedral, Bolshoy Sampso­
nievsky pr. 41, |M|Vyborgskaya, tel. 710 31 38, www.cathedral.ru. Built to celebrate the 1709 victory over the Swedes, Samponievsky Cathedral is one of the city's oldest and finest churches. This concert, the first of a planned series, features the music of Rachmaninov, liturgy and church music and will be performed by the Smolny Cathedral Chamber Choir. • Admission 400Rbl. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood 0-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, WNevsky Pr., tel. 31516 36, www. cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it's still one of the city's most beautiful landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. During Soviet times, it was used to store potatoes. It was renovated in the early 1990s and was reopened as a museum in 1997. • Open 10:00 -19:00, 19:30 - 23:00. Closed Wed. Ad­
mission foreigners 170 - 300Rbl, Russians 50 - 200Rbl. Kazan cathedral D-3. Kazanskaya pi. 2, M Nevsky pr., tel. 570 45 28. This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter's in Rome, is one of the city's most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colon­
nade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. • Open daily services 10:00 and 18:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission to the church is free. There are excursions daily for lOORbl for foreigners and 30 - 50Rbl for Russians. Smolny Cathedral F-2, PI. Rastrelli 3, (MjChemyshevs-
kaya, tel. 2719182, www.cathedral.mThe view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth the climb, to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once the centre­
piece of a convent founded to educate young noblemen, is nowadays a concert and exhibition hall with an exhibition on Smolny's history on display. From the nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the October Revolution in 1917. • Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission concerts 100-600 Rbl; exhibitions for foreigner 70 - 200Rbl, for Russians 20 - 50 Rbl. Ticket office 57714 21. St. I saac's Cathedral 0-3, isaakievskaya pi., (MjNevsky pr., tel. 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac's is one of the world's largest cathedrals. T he interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed in 1818 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was born on the St. Isaac of Dalmatia's Saint day. If it is a clear day climb the colonnade; the view is absolutely worth the effort. • Cathedral open 10:00-19:00, Colonnade daily 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Additional fee for photography. Admission Cathedral: foreigners 150 - 270Rbl (English, French, German guide extra 270Rbl/group), Russians 50 - lOORbl (includes Russian guide); Colonnade: foreigners 100-150Rbl, Russians 25 - 50Rbl. Closed Wed. Synagogue Great Choir Synagogue C-4, Lermontovsky pr. 2, (MjSennaya pi., tel. 74019 52, www.jewishpetersburg. ru. T he Great Choir Synagogue in St. Petersburg is the second largest in Europe. It's about 3,200 square metres in area, and its domed tower 47m high. The majestic Grand Hall can accommodate 1,200 worshippers. T he synagogue's complex also consists of the Small Synagogue (Mikvah), Lechaim, a kosher restaurant, and a gift shop called Kosher, where you can buy rabbi matryoshkas! • Open 09:30 -18.00. Closed Sat, Sun. daily services 09:00, Sat 10:00. -
WHAT TO SEE Museums Artillery museum D-2, PS, Alexandrovsky park 7 (en­
trance Kronverskaya nab.), [MlGorkovskaya, tel. 232 02 96. If weapons are your thing, then you'll enjoy having a look around this stockpile of old military vehicles and more than 600 pieces of artillery. Outside, big tanks and rocket-launch­
ers are reminders of the military might of the former Soviet Union. • Open 11.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission foreigners 150 - 300Rbl, Russians 50 - lOORbl. If Lenin is your man... There are plenty of oppor­
tunities for a bit of Lenin spotting. Finlyandsky Sta­
tion (E-2) was the site of Lenin's famous return from exile in April 1917, where Lenin clambered up onto a car to deliver his rallying cry. Out front of the station, a majestic statue of Lenin points the way to a radiant future, and at the entrance to the adjacent metro stop, Ploshchad Lenina, there is another Lenin mosaic. Other statues of Lenin can be found in the Botanical Gardens on the Petrograd Side (PS) (D-l), and across town at Smolny Institute (F-3) where you'll also find statues of Marx and Engels. If you're flying out, wave goodbye to Vladimir lllyich Ulyanov (Lenin's full name) as you go past Ploschad Moskovskaya (Moscow Square). Peter and Paul Fortress Peter and Paul Fortress D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, [MlGorkovskaya, tel. 230 64 31, www. spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg's first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side views. The Commandant's House museum examines the history of the city. The modern Neva Curtain Wall museum studies the history of the Fortress. The Engineer's House architecture exhibition and Museum of Space Exploration are very quirky. The Mint displays coins and the Printing Workshop con­
tains printing and ceramic rel­
ics. The Neva Curtain Wall has the best view, and you can take a dip in the bracing waters... at your own risk. • Open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums are open 11:00 -18:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open daily 10:00 - 19:00. Roof walk Nevskaya panorama open 10:00 -
22:00. Entrance fortress is free. Admission cathedral and museums: foreigners 80 - 250Rbl, Russians 30 - 150Rbl (ticket valid for all museums and re-entrance validfor 10 days). Admission roof walk 30-70Rbl. Avrora E-2, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., [MlGorkovskaya, tel. 230 84 40, www.aurora.org.ru. This battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd, has become a Soviet shrine. Blank shots fired from the Avrora are said to have triggered the 1917 revolution. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. Rumours emerged in the 1990s that it's actually a replica. • Open 10:30 -16:00. Closed Mon, fit Admission free. Excur­
sion foreigners 50 - 200Rbl, Russian 30 - 80Rbl. Blockade Museum E-2, Solyanoy per. 9, (M)Chemyshevs-
kaya, tel. 579 30 21. Sombre and absorbing, this museum shows a famine ravaged Leningrad and the heroic efforts by citi­
zens to somehow get food in from beyond the blockade across the frozen 'Road of Life'over Lake Ladoga. Despite the almighty lack of English, visitors can pick up most of what is depicted but do pick up a booklet in English for lORbl at the front desk. • Open 10O0 -17:00. Closed Wed and the last T hur of every month. Admission Russians 20 - 40Rbl, foreigners lOORbl. Bread Museum E-3, Ligovsky pr. 73, (M)PI. Vosstaniya, tel. 7641110, www.museum.ru/museum/bread. Devoted to bread, the mainstay of Russian life, this museum presents the origins of bread baking in ancient Egypt to the cultivation of bread throughout Russian history. Great displays showing the tea shops of the nineteenth century, the massive Soviet era bread machines and the blockade section showing the bread ration of just 250gms. • Open 1000 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Foreigners 50 - lOORbl, Russians 25 - 40Rbl, excursions (only in russian) 350Rbl. State Hermitage Museum State Hermitage Museum D-3, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pi.), (Mj Nevsky pr., tel. 710 90 79, www.hermitage.ru. The director of the Hermitage once said, "I can't say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it's certainly not the second." If three million works of art, including those by Picasso, Van Gogh or Rembrandt don't make you gasp, then the Winter Palace interiors will. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds. • Open ^ ^ ^ 10:30 -18:00, Sun 10:30 -
17:00. Closed Mon. Admission foreigners 0 - 350Rbl, Russians 0 - lOORbl. Free admission international and Russian students. First Thurs of the month FREE admis­
sion for ALL visitors. EBJQQ [P] О The Primary Facts The interiors: 1,786 doors; 1,945 windows; 117 stair­
cases and 1,057 halls and rooms. Three million works of art: 15,000 paintings; 12,000 sculptures; 600,000 drawings; 600,000 archaeological artifacts; 224,000 objects of applied art; one million coins and medals. Stand in front of each piece for one minute and it would take you nearly five years to leave. Impressed? Hermitage online! www.hermitage.ru. No more queues! Order your ticket voucher online one to three days before. The cost includes camera and video camera use in some museum halls. Ticket options include the One Day Simple Entrance Ticket for US$17.95 and Two Day Combined Entrance Ticket which gives you increased access for US$25.95. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket" October 2007 WHAT TO SEE House of Peter the Great D-2, Petrovskaya nab. 6, (MJGorkovskaya, tel. 232 45 76. When Peter the Great arrived to supervise the construction of the Peter and Paul Fortress and his new city, he needed a place to stay. So, in three days (reputedly) they built him this modest little cabin where he lived for the next six years. There are some exhibits of Peter's things inside, and the stone house around it was build by Catherine II. • Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission foreigners 200Rbl, Russians 20 - 70Rbl. Kunstkamera D-3, UniversKetskaya nab. 3, (MjVasileo-
strovskaya, tel. 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg's oldest and strangest museum. Kunstkamera ('art house') was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It's an eclectic mix of historic household items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter's Anatomical Collection with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the crowds. • Open ИЮ0-1800. Closed Mon. Admission foreign­
ers 100-200Rbl, Photography 50Rbl, Russians 50-100Rbl. Monument of the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad Ploshchad Pobedy. M Moskovskaya, tel. 373 65 63. The 40m high obelisk and memorial statues are thefirst sight anyone sees as they travel to the city from Pulkovo airport. T he Blockade Museum, with its imposing mosaic walls is located underneath the square. Exhibits include handwritten letters, photographs and film footage of the Siege. • Open 10.00 -18.00, Tue, Fri 10O0 - 17O0. Closed Wed and last Tue of the month. Admission free. Excursion foreigners 40 -70Rbl, Russians 30 - 50Rbl. Museum of Church Archeology F-4, Nab.Obvodnogo kan.17, |MjPI. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. 717 33 50, w w w.spbda. ru. T he Museum of Church Archeology functions as both church and museum. It holds a collection of ancient icons, called antimisi and rare sacred books, some wooden and some from flax. There are also two icons which flew into space onboard the shuttle Soyuz in 1999. • Open Mon -
Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free (call in advance). Museum of the History of Religion D-3. ui. Pochtamts-
kaya 14, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 57104 95, w w w. relig-museum. ru. T his exhibition, which used to be the Museum of Atheism in the Kazan Cathedral, describes the history of various religions from around the world. There are exhibits about Greek and Egyptian religions, as well as an exhibit outlining the history of the Russian Orthodox Church. • Open 1100 - 18O0. Closed Wed. Admission foreigners 45 - 90Rbl, Russians 20 - 50Rbl. Russian Museum Russian Museum 0-3, UI. Inzhenernaya 4/2, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream •• •atmm' '~m of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a de­
light whatever yourfavoured ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ genre. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. • Open 10:00 -18:00, Mon 10:00 -17:00. Closed Tue. Admission foreigners 150 - 300Rbl, Russians 30 - lOORbl. [м](Ё)0 Naval Museum D-3, Birzhevaya pi. 4, (MjVasileostro-
vskaya, tel. 328 25 02, www.museum.navy.ru. Located in the former stock-exchange building, this museum shows the history of the Russian and Soviet Navy, from the time of Peter the Great. Exhibits include uniforms, flags and even a submarine complete with loaded torpedoes. • Open 11:00 -17:15. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission foreigners 110 - 320Rbl, Russians 50 - 90Rbl. Excursion foreigners 500 -7O0Rbl, Rus­
sians 300 - 500Rbl. St. Petersburg Museum of the Avant-garde D-i, ui. Professora Popova 10, (MjPetrogradskaya, tel. 234 42 89. This museum is primarily dedicated to the activities and impact of avant-garde husband and wife, Mikhail Matyushin and Elena Guro. It is located in their home, a fully restored timber 19th century house, and this alone is worth seeing. • Open Mon - Sun 11:00 -17.00. Closed Wed. Foreigners 70Rbl, Russians 50Rbl. Students 20Rbl. Photography ticket 50Rbl. State Museum of Political History of Russia D-2, UI. Kuibysheva 2-4, (MJGorkovskaya, tel. 233 70 52, www.polithistory.ru. Lenin's office has been recreated in this former ballerina's house, today it is one of the city's most informative museums. It is really worth seeing their exhibi­
tions, enlightening and evocative. • Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu. Admission foreigners 70 - 150Rbl, Russians 15 - 40Rbl. Tours around St. Petersburg Whether you want to see St. Petersburg from the water, the walkways, or on two wheels, these tour operators can show you the city through another pair of eyes. Peter's Walking Tours F-3, Daily walks leave from the International Hostel, 3-ya Sovetskaya 28 at 10:30, tel. 909 5148, www.peterswalk.com. With a diverse choice of tours and also personalised routes the guides are extremely informative: about architecture and history as well as modern Russian society. 'Alterna­
tive' routes, escape tourist traps and show you the real city. For the timetable of themed walks, go to www. peterswalk.com • Cost 430Rbl. VB Excursions tel. 928 07 39, www.vb-excur-
sions.com. VB Excursions is an innovative walking tour company that takes you off the beaten track to glimpse social and political history. They offer four tours, includ­
ing the sites of the Revolution and the intriguing 'Kresty Prison' tour, which takes you into the actual working prison. • Prices from €14 - 27. LYRICAL CITY St. Petersburg In Your Pocket With so many wonderful writers who were born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city without visiting at least one of the museums honouring them. Anna Akhmatova Museum E-3, Liteiny pr. 53, (MjMaya-
kovskaya, tel. 272 2211, www.akhmatova.spb.ru. In this former palace you can visit the flat where Akhmatova lived for almost 30 years. Ten rooms chronologically represent ten eras. Photographs and artefacts from Akhmatova's hard and fascinating life are on display; books of her poetry that never left the printing house and letters. Audio-guides in English, German and French (100Rbl);free texts in English in the rooms. • Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission foreigners lOORbl, Russians 15-20Rbl. Dostoevsky House E-3, Kuzhnechny per.5/2, (м V-
ladimirskaya, tel. 57140 31, www.md.spb.ru.You will find Dostoevsky's weathered corner-apartment two minutes walk from the metro. Divided in two sections: literary and memorial (his apartment and belongings). Get an audio guide to lessen confusion. If you are a fan, this museum is the premium place to go. • Open HOO - 17O0. Closed Mon. Admission foreigners 60 - 120Rbl, Russians 20 - 50Rbl Literature Museum D-3, Nab. Makarova 4, (MjSportivna-
ya, tel. 328 05 02, www.pushkinhouse.spb.ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum preserves some real literary treasures such as the desk of Blok, the great symbolist. The museum holds an astounding 12,000 amazing manuscripts by poet Pushkin. The museum is on the second floor of the Russian Literature Institute. • Open 11:00 -17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. No private visitors, only booked excursions: Russians 220 - 240Rbl, foreigners 375 - 450Rbl. Nabokov Museum D-3, UI. Bolshaya Morskaya 47, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 315 4713, www.nabokovmuseum.org. World-famous novelist Nabokov (1899 -1977) lived here with hisfamily until he emigrated, via Europe, to the U.S. T his quaint museum describes the habits, life and work of the man behind Lolita. • Open daily 11:00 - 18Ю0, Sat, Sun 12:00 -17:00. Closed Mon. Admission foreigners 20 - lOORbl, Russians 20 - 40Rbl. Last Thurs of the month admission free. Nekrasov Memorial Museum E-3, Liteiny pr. 36, I'M! Mayakovskaya. tel. 272 0165, www.museumpushkin. ru Both the last abode of Nekrasov and the headquarters of the eighteenth century journal, Sovremennik 'The f ^ 4Ы Contemporary', this museum is charm­
ing. Tolstoy, Dostoevsky and Turgenev used to hang out here. T here are many stuffed animals, illustrating Nekrasov's great love of hunting. Information in Russian, however, you can buy a booklet with English (15Rbl). • Open 11:00 -17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: foreigners 30 - lOORbl, Russians 10 - 30Rbl. Pushkin Museum D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 12, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 57135 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. T hrough the old oak doors you enter a tranquil courtyard, surrounded by 18th century buildings to find a statue of Alexander Pushkin, strewn with fresh flowers. This is the place where he lived and where he died in his tragic duel. Pushkin's legacy is well captured; learn about his inspirations, life and character. His death-mask displayed in a glass case is certainly something to see, as is his beautiful library of over 2000 books. • Open 10:30 -17:00. Closed Tue and last Fri of the month. Admission foreigners 60 - 200Rbl. Russians 30 - 60Rbl. Poem of the month Arion We were a crowd inside the boat Some of us trimmed the sails, While others gamely plunged The mighty oars Into the deep. While in the calm, Our skillful helmsman, leaning to the wheel, Steered the craft without a word; And I - abrim with carefree hope -
I sang to all the crew...A sudden gust Then roared, and swept the ocean's breast.. The helmsman and the crew were lost! And I alone, mysterious bard, Was tossed upon the stormy shore And sang my anthems as before While spreading out my sodden robe To dry upon a sunny cliff. 1827 A. S. Pushkin Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin (1799-1837) is undeniably the nation's favourite literary hero, and it is unlikely that he will ever be bumped off this grand podium. Russians reel off excerpts of Pushkin and sing his praises so often that you can't help feeling a) sorry for all the other great writers, poets and playwrights that don't even get half the acclaim as Alexander Sergeevich and b) slightly bored of hearing that one name, over, and over, and over again. Pushkin is most famous for his classic novel in verse Eugene Onegin, his poem The Bronze Horseman and his play Boris Godunov. He is also famous for his dramatic death. In 1837, while falling into greater and greater debt amidst rumors that his wife had started conducting a scandalous affair, he challenged her alleged lover, Georges d'Anthes, to a duel. Pushkin was mortally wounded and died two days later. Bridges on the Rise! Be careful not to get caught on the wrong side of the river! Drawing 02.00 - 03:45 04:15 - 05:45 02:20 - 05:30 02:20 - 05:10 02:00 - 05:00 01:40 - 04:45 01:40 - 04:45 00:25 - 04:55 01:25 - 02:45 03:10 - 05:00 02:00 - 04:55 Tuchkov 02:00 - 04:55 03:35 - 04:55 Sampsonievsky 02:10 - 02:45 03:20 - 04:25 Grenadersky 02:45 - 03:45 04:20 - 04:50 Kantemirovsky 02:45 - 03:45 04:20 - 04:50 Depending on the weather and how fast the Neva freezes, the bridges may still be raised this month. For more information, tel. 314 9764 Bridges Voladarsky Finlyandksy Aleksandra Nevskogo B. Okhtinsky Liteiny Troitsky Dvortsovy (Palace Bridge) Blagoveshensky (Leintenanta Schmidta) Birzhevoy Drawing 02:00 - 03:45 04:15 - 05:45 02:20 - 05:30 02:20 - 05:10 02:00 - 05:00 01:40 - 04:45 01:40 - 04:45 00:25 - 04:55 01:25 - 02:45 03:10 - 05:00 02:00 - 04:55 October 2007 WHAT TO SEE The suburbs are an unmissable part of St. Petersburg. Make the most of the fine weather by taking a trip round the parks. Pavlovsk tel. 45215 36, www.pavlovsk.org. Pavlovsk is a wonderful place to get away from it all. While more humble and • • в и м в м в less touristy than the palaces at Peterhof or Pushkin, the recon­
structed palace at Pavlovsk is still very interesting, and the park is a great place to roam amongst ro­
mantic ruins, statues, forests and streams. • Palace open 10:00 -17O0. Closed Fri and last Mon of the month. Admission foreigners 370Rbl, Russians 50 - 170Rbl. Park open 24hrs (main gate 1000 -18.00), admissionforeigners 100, Russians 15 - 30Rbl (after 1800 -free). Getting there. From Zvezdnaya metro station, take marshrutka 479; orfrom Vitebsky station, take a train to Pavlovsk station (40min). Peterhof tel. 450 62 23, www.peterhof.org. Hundreds of fountains and golden statues surround Peter's Palace - Russia's answer to Versailles. The palace, which was built between 1709 and 1724 by some 5,000 soldiers and slaves, was completely destroyed during WWII, and, in the 1950s, was reconstructed from photographs and maps. Take some time to see the sur­
rounding gardens and Peter's villa Monplaisir. • Palace and water fountains open 09O0 -1700. Closed Mon. Park open 10.00 - 20.00. Admission park foreigners 150 - SOORbl, Russians 30 - lOORbl. Admission park free after 17.O0. Admission palaces foreigners 60 - 500Rbl, Russians 10 - 400Rbl. Tour booking of­
fice 420 00 73. GETTING THERE From Baltiisky station, take a train, bus 350,351,352,356, or marshrutka 404. From metro Avtovo, take marshrutka 224 or 424 and from metro Leninsky pr. take marshrutka 103. You can also take a hydrofoil from the city centre to Peterhof (Angliiskaya nab. 4, Universitetskaya nab. 5, Petrovskaya nab. 8). Pushkin Palace (Tsarskoe selo) Ui. Sadovaya 7, tel. 465 20 24, www.tzar.ru. Catherine's Palace and the surrounding — — *—" • • parks were created by Empress Elizabeth and Catherine the Great, which is why Pushkin was formerly known as Village of the tsar's' (Tsarskoe Selo). The palace, with its famous Amber Room, is an impressive post-WWII reconstruc­
tion. • Palace open 1000-1700 — (for individuals 12001400,16.00 -17.00). Closed Tue, and last Mon of the month. Park open 09.00 - 22O0. Palace admissionforeigners 250 - 520Rbl, Russians 70 - 220Rbl (includes Amber room). Park admission foreigners 70 - 140Rbl, Russians 30 - 70Rbl. Getting there: From Vitebsky station, take a train to Detskoe selo station, from where you can walk to the palace or take bus N371 or N382. From Moskovskaya metro, take bus N287 or marshrutka 286,299,342,545. 0 Konstarrtinovsky Palace Strelna, Berezovaya al. 3, tel. 438 53 60. Better known as the 'Palace of Putin', this presidential residence was renovated at great cost, with the help of 5,000 workers, in just 12 months. Originally built in the 18th century for the Romanovs, after WWII, locals used the dilapidated estate for walks and barbeques. These days, the palace and gardens are open to the public. • Open 10.00 -17.00. Closed Wed. Call ahead, to ensure the palace is not closed for an official function. Admission is only possible in groups, each group costs 2500Rbl for foreigners, 1500 for Russians. All visitors also pay Palace admission of 170-280Rbl. Park admission lOORbl. Getting there: from Avtovo metro, take tram N36 or marshrutka 224; or from Baltiiskaya metro, take marshrutka 404; or from Leninsky pr. metro, take marshrutka 420. ДИВ GETTING AROUND Нэ Pushkin Golden Autumn Ball 13/10 Hornblowers will welcome guests to the Catherine Palace and once the dancing and dining have ceased, a fireworks spectacular will bid them farewell. This annual charity event jointly organised by the International Pushkin Fund and the Grand Hotel Europe raises money for charities in and around St. Petersburg. The ball boasts orchestral performances, ballet and a fashion show and has just 300 seats. • Admission $US600. For more information, see www.grandhoteleurope.com Peterhof Fountains Closing 07/1015:00 Over the season, the Peterhof fountains have delighted thousands of visitors, but sadly the time has come again for it all to end. So if you haven't seen them yet, there is not much time left. The modest closing ceremony will be held in the afternoon, with the fountains being turned off at 15:00. • For getting there, see Peterhof this page. A taste of Novgorod Russia's oldest town, Novgorod, founded in 859, is a great place to experience the real Russia. 'Great' Novgorod was one of the major trading towns in Northern Europe. The Kremlin - Russia's oldest Kremlin (fortress) dates from 1044 and includes St. Sophia's Cathedral, the Russian Millennium monument, and the eternal flame. The Bell Tower - A must-see - and a must-hear. Re­
cently restored, the largest of the four huge bells weighs 26.5 tons. The monastery - Dating from 1030, the Yuriev Mon­
astery, with its 20 monks, is located just 10 minutes by bus from Novgorod. Its gold-starred cupola is visible from miles away. The monastery is free to enter with a small fee to take photos. Useful information Telephones - Dialling from within Russia: you have to dial (8) 816-2 to get six-figure numbers, and (8) 816-22 for five-figure numbers. Taxis -Journeys within the town centre should be no more than 70Rbl. Transport -Trains go from Moscow and Vitebsky stations daily (4-5hrs) and buses leave hourly from the City Bus Sta­
tion. The first bus leaves from St. Petersburg 07:30, from Novgorod the last bus leaves 20:05. It is best to buy tickets in advance. See Getting Around page 51. Tourist Information Next to the Kremlin, Novgorod's tourist information centre, the 'Red Izba' is in a wooden hut-like building. Sennaya PI. 5, tel. (816 2) 77 30 74, www.visitnovgorod.ru Where to Stay Beresta Palace UI. Studencheskaya 2A, tel. (816 2) 18 6910, http://www.fclnovgorod.ru Where to Eat Restaurant Detinets Kremlin, Pokrovskaya Tower, tel: (816 2) 77 46 24 Open daily 11:00 - 23:00 Public transport Most Petersburg residents get around the city by various kinds of public transport. The most efficient and fastest are the metro and marshrutka (mini bus). On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board from the conductor or the driver (14Rbl for bus, tram, trolley). It all works from around 06:00 to just after midnight. Bus - Usually overcrowded, especially during rush hours and this is when you meet Russians at their best. Most buses are from the Stone Age, but are slowly being replaced by modern ones. There are normal and commercial buses, of which the latter are more expensive (tickets up to 17Rbl). Elektrichka (local train) - The cheapest way to visit the suburbs or villages outside Petersburg. This is real Russian life and during your trip sellers badger you with whatever they're selling: ice cream, maps, shoestrings and so on. No toilets! Marshrutka - These are those mini-vans you see with the numbers on the front. See the boxed text 'Marshrutkas' for more information. Tram - According to the Guinness Book of World Records, St. Petersburg has the most extensive tram system in the world. A total of 2,402 cars run on 64 different routes over 690.6km of track. Think of that with some respect when your rusty old tram is rocking and shaking you all over! Trolley bus - The trolley network is 525km long and has more than 45 trolleybus routes. Lenin's slogan 'Communism is the Soviets plus Electrification' is put into practice here. Metro - The world's deepest metro is over 100km long. Fast and efficient, during peak time you won't wait more than two minutes for a train. Rush hour is between 08:00-10:00 and 17:00-19:30. Petersburg has four colour-coded, numbered metro lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa (14Rbl). You can also buy plastic cards for more rides (10, 20, or more) which you can use for a fixed period (7 days, 15 days, or more). To change lines, you usually need to change stations using the underground passageways linking adjacent stations like Nevsky Pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see where you are. You will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it's best to count your stops. The metro works from 06:00 to 00:30, but if you want to be sure you catch your train, be sure to arrive by 00:00. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Trail Mosko From J № Tral 167B 23 159 165Д 51 29 37 2 7" 25 63 5 53 1 3 19 55 A - excel *-odd( is to Mosc vsky station. Train it.Petersburg n Dep. Arr. 06:45 1305 16O0 18:30 21:20 22:00 22:20 22:30 23O0 23:15 23:30 23:40 23:55 23:59 0020 00:40 Dt Saturday lates 11:15 20:55 21:30 23:00 05:00 05:50 06:02 05:56 07:00 06:48 07:10 08:35 07:55 08:00 09:07 09:53 В-M< O W all trains leave from times are subject to change. ToSt.P» Dep. 19O0 12:30 16:30 18:30 22:20 01:05 00:30 21:30 23O0 22:10 23:30 23:40 23:55 23:59 00:45 20:18 in. Fri С • • - even dates Jtersburg Arr. 23:30 19:51 22O0 23:00 06:47 09:37 08:18 05:30 06:41 06:06 07:40 08:35 07:55 08:00 09:00 05O0 № Train 168B 24 160 166C 52 30 38 28* 26 64 6 54 2 4 20 56 • except Sundav Marshrutkas • i I The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi I which follows a set route. They go just about everywhere within the city centre and out to the suburbs. They have set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the num­
ber you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand yourfare (10 - 30Rbl depending on the route taken) to the driver or to the person in front of you. When you want to get off, yell out loudly, 'ostanavites pazhaluista,' and the driver will, hopefully, come to a screeching halt. № Route К 3 (MjSennaya pi - Moskovsky pr. -
jM)Tekhnologichesky institut till — (M) Moskovskaya - Hotel Rossiya- Park Pobedy - Hotel Pulkovskaya - International airport Pulkovo-2 К 25 H Vladimirskaya/Dostoevskaya -
(M)Pushkinskaya/Vitebsky station-
(MJTekhnologichesky In.-Moskovsky pr. -
(M)Frunzenskaya - ®)Moskovskie Vorota -
(MjFJektrosila - (MjZvezdnaya - (MjKupchino К 76 Concert hall Oktyabrsky/Hotel Oktyabrsky -
Ligovsky pr. - Millionnaya ul. - Troitsky bridge -
Peter and Paul Fortress - |M)Gorkovskaya -
(MjPetrogradskaya - (M)Chernaya Rechka -
(M|Novaya Derevnhya - (MJPionerskaya -
pi. Sikorskogo ._ _ _ К 124 (M)Pushkinskaya (Vitebsky station) - (MJTekhnologichesky institut- g*)Sadovaya/ Sennaya - Mariinsky Theatre - Nikolayevsky Palace (folkshow) - Lietenanta Shmidta Bridge VO: Bolshoy pr.-Gavanskaya ul. - (@Primorskaya - ul. Korablestroiteley К 129 VO, ul. Korablestroiteley, (M)Primorskaya -
LenExpo - Hotel Morskaya - Bolshoy pr. -
State University - The Hermitage - Nevsky pr./(M)Gostiny Dvor- (MjPl.Vosstaniya -
Suvorovsky pr- PI. Rastrelli К 169 (MjGostiny Dvor - Nevsky pr. - St. Isaac's pi. / St. Isaac's cathedral - Mariinsky Theatre -
|M)Narvskaya К 187 (M|Vasileostrovskaya - State University - The Hermitage - Щ Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor -
Moscow station - (M)PI. Aleksandra Nevskogo/ Hotel Moskva - |M|Novocherkasskaya -
(M|Ladozhskaya/Ladozhsky station MOSCOW FMght S all flights are daily and leave from Pulkovo-1 From St Dep. 07:20 08:50 09:40 14:50 15:10 16:50 17:55 19:15 19:40A 22:30A 23:40 00:20 FV-CTK A-Tue .Petersburg Arr. 08:30 10:00 11:00 16:20 16:20 18:00 19:05 20:30 21:10 23:55 01:05 01:55 Rossiya OP -
В-Sun To St .Petersburg Airline Dep. Arr. FV 07:1( FV 10:4! EX 07O! EX 12:2( FV 17:3J FV 18:5' FV 19:15 FV 21:4! OP 172C OP 20:1! FV 230( EX 21:5! ^ ^ ^ Gazpromavia EX - Sky Express C-Fri FV FV EX EX FV FV FV FV OP OP FV EX 07:10 10:45 07:05 12:20 17:35 18:55 19:15 21:45 17:20B 20:15C 23:00 21:55 08:30 12:10 08:45 13:55 18:55 20:25 20:35 23:10 18:40 21:20 00:25 22:25 October 2007 рп GETTING AROUND Metro decoder Вход Выход Выход в город Переход Следующая станция Осторожно двери закрываются Entrance Exit Exit to the city Interchange stations Next station Caution the doors are closing Vkhod Vykhod Vykhod v gorod Perekhod Sleduyushaya stantsia Ostorozhno dvery zakryvayutsya Airlines Air Baltic www.airbaltic.com Air Berlin www.airberlin.com Air France D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 336 29 00, www.airfrance.com Air Mal ta www.airmalta.com Alitalia D-3, Pulkovo-2 (Main Building), 2nd floor, office 74, (MjMoskovskaya, tel. 336 91 31, www. alitalia.com. Austrian Airlines D-3, Nevsky pr. 32, 4th floor, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 33120 05, www.aua.com Bl uel www.bluel.com British Airways D-3, Ul. Malaya Konyushennaya 1/3A, office 23B, |M] Nevsky pr., tel. 380 06 26, www. ba.com Czech Airlines D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 36, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 315 52 59, www.czechairlines. com Easyjet www.easyjet.com Estonian Air www.estonian-air.ee Finnair D-3, Ul. Malaya Konushennaya l/3a, office B33, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 303 98 98, www.finnair.com. Gazpromavia www.gazpromavia.ru German Wings www.germanwings.com GTK Rossiya (FV)D-4, Ul. 1st Krasnoarmeiskaya 4, (MjTekhnologichesky In., tel. 303 92 68, www. pulkovo-express.ru Hainan Airlines www.hainanairlines.com KLM D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, MjNevsky pr., tel. 346 68 68. www.klm.com Korean Air Lines www.koreanair.com LOT E-3, Manezhnaya pi. 6, jMjGostiny Dvor, tel. 272 29 82, www.lot.com Lufthansa D-3, Nevsky pr. 32, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 320 10 00, www.lufthansa.com Norwegian Air Shuttle ASA www.norwegian.no Ryanair www.ryanair.com SAS D-3, Nevsky pr. 25, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 326 26 00, www.scandinavian.net Sky Express tel. 932 83 34, www.skyexpress.ru SN Brussels Airlines tel. 723 86 91, www.flysn. com Wind Jet http://w4.volawindjet.it/ Buying Tickets If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows in the train stations. We recommend going at 6am on a Sunday morning when there are less people. People in the queues are not shy or retiring types and often push in. So be on guard. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are not due to take a break. You can always buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. You can also try and purchase online, using one of the railway booking services. This does not save you from the queues, however. There are three online booking methods: www.express.orw.ru (only in Russian). Submit your request. After processing, a booking reference is generated which you can then take to the train station to pick up your tickets. Sometimes they have your booking, sometimes they don't, www.ufs.online.ru (also only in Russian) You can buy electronic tickets here for trains and planes, but you have to register first in Russian and it is time-consuming and frustrating, www.rzd.ru At least this has an English version and the ability to look at the timetables without fighting with a Russian keyboard. T his site is a little unpredictable server-wise, and crashed before it managed to give us any information! Domestic Flights All flights leave from Pulko From St.Petersburg Days Dep. 1- 3 15Ю0 7 13:30 1 2 3 - 5 - - 17:40 - - 3 23:50 4 — 7 23:15 12 3 4 5 6 7 23:50 — 3 23:50 12 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 1 2 - 4 - 6 - 16:10 6 - 08:00 6 - 19.O0 1 2 3 4 5 6 721:00 1 5 - - 02:40 1 - 3 4 01:50 1 01:25 2 - - 5 - - 15:45 6 - 11:35 - 2 3 09:20 — 3 22:20 — 3 23:50 +J - Arrival on the next day v ol and are operated by GTK Rossiya (FV) Arr. 18:10 15:05 19:15 06:55 04:00 04:25 02:30 08:30 16:35 10:45 03:55+1 22:45 08:00 10:00 08:25 22:45 14:05 12:55 03:15 19:40+1 ' - two stops City ADLER/SOCHI ARCHANGELSK ARCHANGELSK BARNAUL CHELYABINSK EKATERINBURG IRKUTSK KALININGRAD KALININGRAD KRASNODAR KRASNOYARSK MURMANSK NIZHNEVARTOVSK NORILSK NOVOSIBIRSK NOVOSIBIRSK ROSTOV ON DON SAMARA TYUMEN VLADIVOSTOK** To St.Petersburg Days Dep. 1- 3 19:50 6 7 16:20 1 2 3 20:20 5 - - 14:55 1 5 - - 05:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:50 5 - - 13:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:50 - 2 - 4 - 6 7 17:55 6 - 12:10 6 - 22:30 1 2 3 4 56 7 07:30 1 5 - - 09:20 1 - 3 4 12:00 1 09:55 - - 3 21:45 2 20:00 - 2 3 14:15 7 05:40 5 - - 09:40 Arr. 22:40 17:50 21:55 16:25 06:30 11:40 16:25 12:15 20:40 14:55 23:15 09:25 11Ю0 11:55 11:25 23:15 22:40 16:00 06:50 16:25 Ticket Agencies Central Ticket Agency D-3, Nevsky pr. 7/9, (MjNevsky pr. tel. 315 00 72, www.cavs.ru. You can buy international plane tickets here. • Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 -
18:00. Okdail Service Centres E-3, Moskovsky Station (MS).(MjPI. Vosstaniya, tel. 335 98 07, www.okdail. ru. Okdail has three service centres in the city. Purchasing here can be a relatively harmless experience. They charge 170Rbl per ticket. For a fee of 470Rbl (170Rbl plus 300Rbl delivery fee), you can order tickets and have them delivered. Order tickets from 09:00 - 13:00. Also at St. Petersburg Railway Agency (see following listing). Their Ladozhsky Station (LS), (see Train Stations) outlet only sells air tickets. • Open 24hrs. International Train Schedule an trains leave daily unless otherwise stated Stn. VS VS LS FS FS VS VS VS VS VS VS VS VS VS VS Dep. 23:40A 15:00 06:09 07:57 16:00 21:20 16:18 12:40" 19:08 23:37 15:00 22:08 06:57 20:02' 23:40A Arr. 09:12+2 08:26 11:38 12:33 20:48 20:02*2 17:48*2 15:29-2 09:17+1 11:15+2 05:32+2 09:40+1 13:22 08:52*1 06:40+1 Destination Dep. BERLIN 15:16B BREST 14:10 HELSINKI 18:27 HELSINKI 15:27 HELSINKI 07:27 KIEV 09:35 KISHENEV 19:20 LIVOV 23:07 MINSK 17:40 ODESSA 18:25 PRAGUE С 15:44 RIGA 19:30 TALLINN 15:30 VILNIUS 18:10" WARSAW 20:20B Arr. 0618+2 0938 01:40 2158 1355 10:44+1 12:07+2 0532+2 09:03+1 06:18-2 09:38 0850-1 23:54 0820 06:18+1 +1 - Arrival on the next day * 2 - Arrival on the second day after departure, and so on A-notThu В-not Sat C-Mon,Wed,Thu, Fri, Sat • - odd dates * - - even dates St. Petersburg in Your Pocket" Domestic Train Schedule an trains leave daily unless otherwise stated From St.Petersburg Stn. Dep. MS 19:28" LS 10ЮЗА LS 17:04 VS 18:16" MS 18:49-
LS 17:20 LS 22:02 VS 17:20 MS 17:18 VS 07:53 MS 08:12 LS 20:40 Arr. 12:33+2 10:51+1 06:22+2 20:26+1 20:39-1 21:27+1 06:50+1 22:35 20:23 12:15 11:54 09:10 Destination ADLER ARKHANGELSK SVERDLOVSK KALININGRAD KAZAN MURMANSK PETROZAVODSK PSKOV VELIKY NOVGOROD VELIKY NOVGOROD VELIKY NOVGOROD VOLOGDA To St.Petersburg Dep. 16:32" [ 20:53B 21:27 09:49" 09:13" 08:40 L 23:00 02:51 08:00 17:17 08:05 19:07 Arr. 0854+2 2211 08:46+2 1110-1 13:18+1 1211+1 0715+1 08:08 1116 2212 1125 7:46 +1 Arrival on the next day +2 Arrival on tt * - odd dates e second dav after departure and so on ** - even dates A - Mon, Tue.Thu.Fri, В - Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat Train times are subject to change, please call Train Information on 055 to confirm St. Petersburg Railway Agency D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 24, (MjNevsky pr. Plane and train tickets are sold here. For information regarding plane tickets only, tel. 710 66 16. • Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 -16:00. Ferry Terminal Morskoy Vokzal B-4, VO Pr. Morskoy Slavy 1, (MjVas-
ileostrovskaya, Primorskaya, tel. 322 60 52. If you arrive by ferry your ship will probably stop at the Morskoy Vokzal, the sea terminal for passengers in St. Petersburg. The terminal, located on Vasilevsky Ostrov (island), has a cash machine, a cafe, and a business centre. City Bus Station City Bus Station E-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, ~jLigovsky pr., tel. 766 57 77. Not only can you buy tickets for domestic and international bus lines (daily to Tallinn, Helsinki, Riga), you can also purchase international train and ferry tickets. To reach the city centre from here you can take a short taxi ride (do not pay more than lOORbl) or walk for 15mins up to Ligovsky pr. metro (14Rbl). • Open 06:30 - 23:30 Taxis Taxi tel. 6 000 000 City centre to airport circa 580Rbl. Taxi tel. 7 000 000 City centre to airport circa 550Rbl. Train Stations Baltiisky station (BS) Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, (MJBaltiiskaya Finlyandsky station (FS) E-2, PI. Lenina 6, (MjPI. Lenina. Ladozhsky station (LS) Zhanevsky pr. 73, (MjLado-
zhskaya Moskovsky station (MS) E-3, Nevsky pr. 85, (MjPI. Vosstaniya, tel. 768 45 97. Vitebsky station (VS) D4, Zagorodny pr. 52, (MjPush-
kinskaya, tel. 768 58 07. BUS S c h e d u l e all buses leave daily from the City Bus Station, unless otherwise stated From St.Petersburg Dep. 14:40 22:15 18:30 20:30 23:45 06:45 10:30 13:15 16:45 18:00 23:15 • - Mon," Arr. 22:00 06:00 08:45A 07:30 05:40A 13:35 18:10 20:20 23Ю5Л 23:20A* 06:45 Гие, Thu, Fri To St.Petersburg City Dep. HELSINKI 09:00 HELSINKI 23:00 RIGA 18:30*" RIGA 21:30 TALLINN 06Ю0 TALLINN 07:00 TALLINN 10:15 TALLINN 11:00 TALLINN 14:30 TALLINN 22:00 TALLINN 23:40 ••-Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat Arr. 18:30 07:10 08:00 10:30 13:00A** 15:30A 19:15 20:40 23:30 07:30 08:00 "*-Fri A -fromДо Baltiisky Station Train Information: tel. 055 October 2007 GETTING AROUND MAIL& PHONES Из Internationa! Flight Schedule Flight schedule is subject to change From St.Petersburg Days Dep. Arr. 1 6 - 19:30 02:15 - - 3 - 5 - 7 08:40 09:15 1 - - 4 - 6 - 18:30 19:25 1 5- - 09:00 13:30 - - 3 19:50 07:55 7 1 0:4 0 22:25 4 07:45 08:05 12 3 4 5 - 7 15:50 16:10 - - 3 - 5 - - 15:10 15:35 4 - 6 - 19:50 02:30 - 2 - 4 - 6 - 12:05 12:50 12 3 4 5 6 7 14:25 14:30 7 1 0:30 10:30 1 - - 4 21:00 02:40 - - 3 07:30 08:25 6 - 15:50 17:10 12 3 4 5 6 7 06:05 07:00 4 - - 7 13:50 14:40 12 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 15:25 - 2 3 4 - 6 - 19:25 20:20 6 - 08:40 09:05 7 09:10 09:45 12 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 12:30 12 3 4 5 6 7 19:10 19:10 4 06:50 09:15 7 1 9:25 i9;45 5 - 7 16:30 17:20 - - 3 7 14:35 15:00 6 - 09:35 10O0 12 3 4 5 6 7 17:35 18:05 7 11:05 12:20 4 08:10 09:35 12 3 4 5 6 7 17:10 18:45 7 16:20 07:05 - - 3 12:15 13:10 1 - 3 - 5 - - 14:45 14:45 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 09:50 10:55 12 3 4 5 6 7 15:05 16:30 - 2 - 4 - 5 7 16:40 17:15 1 07:25 07:50 6 - 08:00 08:30 12 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 14:55 4 07:05 08:50 7 08:30 10:00 - - 3 - - 6 - 19:50 01:25 - - 3 4 - 6 - 20:50 10:10 12 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 14:30 7 18:25 17:55 1 20:00 01:45 1 - - 4 5 - - 10:40 14:00 12 3 4 5 6 7 15:50 16:35 7 1 7:2 o 18:00 12 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 15:30 - 2 09:10 13:40 City ALMATY (FV) AMSTERDAM (FV) AMSTERDAM (KLM) BAKU (FV) BEIJING (FV) BEIJING (HU) BERLIN (FV) BERLIN (AB) BERLIN (GW) BISHKEK (FV) COLOGNE - BONN (GW) COPENHAGEN(SAS) COPENHAGEN(FV) DUSHANBE(FV) DUSSELDORF(FV) FORLI (WJ) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT(FV) FRANKFURT(LH) FRANKFURT(LH) HAMBURG (FV) HANOVER(FV) HELSINKI (AY) HELSINKI (FV) ISTANBUL (FV) KARLOVY VARY(CSA) KIEV(FV) LONDON (FV) LONDON (FV) LONDON(BA) MILAN (FV) MILAN (FV) MILAN (AZ) MUNICH (FV) MUNICH (FV) OSLO(NO) PARIS (FV) PARIS (AF) PRAGUE(CSA) PRAGUE(FV) PRAGUE (FV) RIGA (LVL) ROME(FV) ROME (FV) SAMARKAND (FV) SEOUL (KE) STOCKHOLM (SAS) STOCKHOLM (FV) TASHKENT(FV) TEL AVIV (FV) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (FV) WARSAW (LOT) YEREVAN(FV) 1/2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 1/2 1/2 2 1/2 1/2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 1 To St.Petersburg Days Dep. -2 7 03:45 - - 3 - 5 - 7 10:40 1 - - 4 - 6 - 12:35 - 2 - - 5 - - 14:50 4 09:10 7 01:00 4 09:05 12 3 4 5 - 7 10:35 - - 3 - - 6 - 10:10 5 - 7 04:00 - 2 - 4 - 6 - 06:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:35 7 11:30 - 2 - - 5 - - 04:40 - - 3 09:20 6 - 09:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:40 4 - - 7 16:00 12 3 4 5 6 7 13:30 1 2 3 4 56 7 18:30 6 7 10:15 6 - 10:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:55 4 ю:15 7 14:25 5 - 7 18:20 - - 3 7 16:00 6 - 11:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:55 7 13:20 4 11:20 12 3 4 5 6 7 10:50 7 i 8:o5 — 3 i 4:20 1 - 3 - 5 - - 10:00 1 2 - 4 5 6 7 12:15 2 2 3 4 56 7 09:50 - 2 - 4 - 5 7 11:30 1- 3 08:50 6 7 09:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:35 4 09:50 7 ii-oo 4 02:55 - - 3 4 - 6 - 13:30 1 2 3 4 56 7 10:55 7 18:55 - 2 03:15 1 - - 4 5 - - 14:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:15 7 19:00 12 3 4 5 6 7 10:50 - 2 15:10 ПОЧТОЙ РОССИИ Making a call Arr. 06:55 15:25 17:25 17:30 13:50 05:25 13:20 14:55 14:30 07:05 11:25 13:40 15:30 08:50 14:10 14:45 13:20 20:40 18:10 23:10 14:30 15:10 11:50 21:50 14:25 18:40 21:10 22:10 17:20 16:10 18:30 16:25 16:20 22:50 19:05 14:00 17:30 15:05 15:55 13:10 13:50 14:00 15:25 16:25 06:55 18:50 14:20 22:20 07:40 20:55 15:00 23:25 14:45 17:45 1 - Monday, 2 - Tuesday, 3 - Wednesday, 4 -Thursday, 5 - Friday, 6 - Saturday 7 - Sunday *'г И п Д.с ^ е 5: A B " Ai,r B f l i n' AF - Air France, AY - Finnair, AZ - Alitalia, BA - British Airways, CSA - Czech Airlines FV - GTK Rossiya GW - German Wings, KLM - Royal Dutch Airlines, LH - Lufthansa, LOT - Polish AirNnes S t" £ РЛ1',°' ££ Z N T g r £ S h u t t l e ASA' 0 S - Au s t r i a n Ai r l i n e s'SAS - Scandinavian Airlines SN - Brussels Airlines, WJ - Wind Jet • - one stop • * - flights can leave from either terminal. Call Pulkovo-2, tel.704 34 44 to confirm Post Central Post Office D-3, Ul.Pochtamtskaya 9, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 312 39 54, www.spbpost.ru. The main post office (Glavpochtamt), Russia's first, opened in 1714 and is a couple of blocks from St. Isaac's Square. Buy stamps in any of the city's 400 sub post offices -just look for the blue post sign. Let-
ters can be posted in the light-blue post boxes around the city. • Open 24hrs. Stamps need to be dated after 1998. Sending a letter home will cost you around 20Rbl (and will take about three weeks!) Express mail There are various private courier services which are reliable. If you want a letter to arrive the next day in a European country, you can pay between US$30 and US$50. DHL D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 326 64 00 (24hrs), www.dhl.ru. • Open 0800 - 2100. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT Express Wortwide FreeCall tel. 8 800100 27 77, www.tnt.ru Westpost E-3, Nevsky pr. 86, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 327 30 92 (24hrs), www.westpost.ru. • Open 09:30 - 20O0. Mobile phones Thinking about getting a Russian number? The quickest way is to purchase a starter kit which gives you a pre-paid card account, cost around 150Rbl and includes about $5 of free calls. To pur-
chase a Russian number you need to show your passport, visa and registration. The following providers all work 24hrs. Bee Line (GSM) tel. 740 60 00, www.beelinegsm.ru Megafon (GSM) tel. 960 05 00, www.megafon.ru MTS (GSM) tel. 380 00 00, www.mts.ru Sky Link (CDMA-450) tel. 715 05 05, www.skylink.ru Tele2 (GSM) tel. 329 00 22, www.spb.tele2.ru IP phone cards Using IP phone cards you can place international calls for just rubles a minute. Various pre-paid cards are availablefrom kiosks and phone shops. Dial a local access number, enter the card num-
ber and PIN, then the number (without 00) that you wish to call. Public internet access Cafemax E-3, Nevsky pr. 90/92, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 273 66 55, www.cafemax.ru. • Open 24hrs. (§) Quo Vadis E-3, Nevsky pr. 76, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 333 07 08, www.quovadis.ru. • Open 09:00 - 23:00. Ш® Telephone codes Calling within St. Petersburg - To call any number within St. Petersburg from a private fixed line, just dial the local seven-digit number as it is, without any codes. Normally, all calls from fixed lines to other fixed lines in St. Petersburg are free. Calling within Russia - For a call to Moscow or any other city in Russia, simply dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial the Russian city code (see Telephone codes) and the number. Calling internationally - To phone home from a St. Petersburg landline without using a card, dial 8, wait for the tone (not necessary if you have a digital line), then dial 10 and the country code (without 00) city code and the number as usual. Mobile phones - You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with one of the four Russian mobile GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls. Petersburg has direct-dial mobile numbers (7—digit) and federal mobile numbers (10—digit). If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10—digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. Depending on usage, it's well worth considering buying a local SIM card that you simply use in your own phone. Laptop login Dial up - You can buy internet cards at computer shops, CD shops and kiosks. You can buy time-limited cards, which have credit for anything from l-100hrs, or you can get cards that charge by the megabyte. On the back, there will be a dial-up number (nomer telefona), login (imya polzovetelya) and password (parol). Some brands (such as Lanck and Zebra) require that you register on their website before you can get your password. When setting up your connection, don't forget to change your dial-up connection setting to pulse rather than tone dialling (if you don't have a digital line). If you work with Windows XP: pulse dialling can be achieved by preceding the internet access number with a capital 'P'. Wireless Wi-Fi (Wireless Fidelity) - You can find the usual Wi-Fi 'hot spots' at the airport, train stations and the sea passenger terminal, as well as hotels, cinemas, restaurants, stores and coffee shops. Quantum (www. wifizone.ru) and Comset (www.set3.ru) have hot spots in Petersburg. Russian city codes Archangelsk 8182/818 Novgorod Irkutsk 3952 Novosibirsk Kazan 8432 Petrozavodsk Moscow 495 Pskov Murmansk 8152/81522 St.Petersburg Leningrad 813 Vladivostok Oblast 8162/81622 3832 8142 8112/81122 812 4232 The above Russian city codes should be prefixed with 8 if dialling from inside Russia Austria 43 Belgium 32 Canada/USA 1 China 86 Cuba 53 Czech Rep. 420 International country codes Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany India 45 Italy 39 Russia 7 372 Japan 81 Spain 34 358 Latvia 371 Sweden 46 33 Lithuania 370 Turkey 90 49 Netherlands 31 Ukraine 380 91 Norway 47 UK 44 Codes should be prefixed with 8-10 if dialling inside Russia. After dailing 8, wait for the second tone - this is only if you do NOT have a digital line. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 541 SHOPPING Whether you are after designer labels, souvenirs or cheap DVDs, you can find them all in St. Petersburg. Always carry cash as credit cards are not always accepted. Bakeries Bushe D-3, Malaya Morskaya ul. 7, (MjGostiny dvor, tel. 315 53 71. • Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Щ Garcon E-3, Nevsky pr. 103, (MjPI. Vosstaniya, tel. 717 07 28, www.garcon.ru. Bakery Heaven. A refuge for all who love the smell of freshly baked loaves, scrumptious biscuits and a good coffee to go with it. • Open 09:00 - 21:00 Bookshops Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 579 82 84, www.anglophile.ru. The best English translations of Russian classics, and a wide selection of material on Russian culture, history and politics, with the nicest staff around. They also have books in five european languages. • Open 10:00 - 20:00. Ш Dom Knigi D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, ЩNevsky pr, tel. 448 23 55. The city's favourite big bookshop boasts three spacious floors of books, with an astonishing range. Dom Knigi offers a good range of classic and modern Russian and world literature. • Open 09:00 - 24:00. Ш CDs & DVDs The Open World D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 13, (M) Nevsky pr., tel. 715 89 39. Brilliant collection of classical music. • Open 10:00 - 22:00. Ш Furs Mekhlandia E-3, Nevsky pr. 53/54, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 57137 00. Mekhlandia (World of Fur) is a huge chain of stores which has good experience in selling furs, leathers and other accessories. This shop is in the centre of the city and provides you with a high quality service and an individual approach. There's great variety of coats, hats, bags, gloves, etc. You can also find furs at Moskovsky pr. 19 (shop Dublenki). • Open 10:00 - 21:00. Ш Fashion Defile Boutique D-3, Nab. Kan. Griboedova 27, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 571 90 10, www.defilenaneve.ru. This is the first boutique in town to sell clothes from exclu­
sively Russian designers. You can find the best and most original designs here not only from Petersburg, but also from other parts of the former Soviet Union, including Ukraine and Belarus. The owner Irina Ashkinadze is an organizer of the annual fashion show Defile on the Neva. • Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 -19:00. Ш Gallery De Luxe Vanity D-3, Kazanskaya pi. 3, (M| Nevsky pr., tel. 438 55 48. The spacious, four floored gallery is quite the darling of Russia's fashionistas. The garments, both eveningwear and casual, shoes, handbags by designers such as Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada are presented as art. Elegant shop assistants glide around the marble floors effortlessly offering assistance. • Open 11:00 - 22:00. Gifts & souvenirs Art & Craft D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 12, Ml Nevsky pr, tel. 312 76 15. This place has an astonishing range of goodies. From your standard Matryoshka dolls to some kitschy Russian soldier hats to childrens toys and tons of little nick-nacks to fill those gaps in your suitcase. • Open 10:00 - 23:00. Heri tage Souvenir Boutiques D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, (MjNevsky Pr., tel. 312 62 12. Belonging to the same group of retail outlets that includes the Onegin Gallery, this shop has been described as being even more exclusive. Expect the same quality and attention to service as well as the huge range of souvenirs; from paintings and sculptures in wood and traditional dolls and music. • Open 08:00 - 22:00. Defile Na Neve Fashion i SHOPPING 10/10-14/10 C-3, Manege Kadetskogo Korpus, Universitetskaya nab. 13. M Vasileostrovs-
kaya, www.defilenaneve.ru. This is St. Petersburg's fashion week. For five days designers from Russia and other eastern European countries congregate in Russia's Northern Capi­
tal for the 16th annual show. Designers Tanya Kotegova, Irina Tantsurina, Ulya Kiselenko and Oleg Birjukov and Leonid Alekseev will be among the participants. Kailas E-3, Ul. Pushkinskaya 10, (MJMayakovskaya, tel. 320 91 47, www.kailas.sp.ru. The smell of incense permeates this Eastern themed shop. They have good presents at low prices, like the incense, jewellery, clothes and decorative items from India, Tibet etc. Huge collection of CDs with Russian and world music. • Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 -18:00. Nevsky Souvenir D-3, Nevsky pr. 18, Щ Nevsky pr., tel. 312 66 76, www.nevskysouvenir.com. Soviet style hip flasks, hand painted lighters, chess boards boxes representing different schools of painting. Faberge style eggs and natural amber necklaces in some stunning designs are contrasted by quirkier items like scarves, puppets, magnets, key rings and oven gloves. Beautiful boxes made from birch bark. • Open 10:00 - 21:00. Onegin Souvenirs & Gallery D-2, Ul. Italyanskaya 11, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 315 6339, www.onegin-gallery. com. Opposite the Russian museum, Onegin has a wide range of superior souvenirs including a fantastic range of amber, jewellery, crystal, china as well as traditional St. Petersburg themed paraphernalia. They also have modern Russian paintings for sale, etchings and water-colours. • Open 08:00 - 21:00. ЩЩ] Souvenir Shop Nevsky, 20 D-3, Nevsky pr. 20, (MjNevsky pr, tel. 571 41 49. Sporting a large range of souvenirs with helpful and not overbearing English speaking staff, this shop is packed with all the usual goodies. They stock amber, enamel boxes, Russian recipe books for those who have fallen in love with Russian cuisine, hats and CCCPt-shirts. They also have jewellery and toy soldiers. • Open 10:00 - 23:00. Markets Apraksin Dvor D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 28-30, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 310 0118. You can buy anything in Apraksin Dvor, and the atmosphere is intoxicating - for about five minutes; after that, it's exhausting. Leave your documents at home, hold onto your money and get a taste of shopping Russian style! Apraksin is a good place to pick up cheap clothes, shoes and household items. • Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Mon. QD Kuznechny mar ket E-3, Kuznechny per. 3, (MjVladimirskaya, tel. 312 41 61. Kuznechny is one of the finest markets in town. Just walking down the aisles is an experience in itself, as different vendors do their best to attract your attention by yelling things out and waving knives with bits of fruit stuck on the end for you to try. You can taste fresh honey, Korean salads and even caviar. • Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 -19:00. Painting market D-3, between Nevsky pr. 32-34, (M) Nevsky pr. Rain or snow, every day in front of Petersburg's first Catholic church you can buy paintings from Russian artists or let them draw your portrait or caricature. Artists sell their original work, although some also do good copies of Picasso and Repin, the Russian Rembrandt. Souvenirs Fair D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 962 2613. If you need gifts to cart back to yourfriends and family, make sure to stop by this outdoor souvenir market. Most of the vendors speak good English, and bargaining is normal practice; in fact, it's expected! • Open 11:00 -19:00. Skolko eto stoit? = How much? Yunona fair Pr. Marshal Kazakova 40, (M) Avtovo, tel. 784 34 41, www.spb-unona.ru. Yunona is bootleg central. Whether you want a kalashnikov or the latest blockbuster film it's all here and it's cheap and mostly illegal. Every Saturday, in front of Yunona, there is a second-hand market, much like a giant garage sale. • Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Getting there: From metro pi. Vosstaniya take marshrutka N256; or from metro Avtovo take marshrutka N60,145,181,195,445. On weekends, there are free marshrutkas running every half hour from 11:00 until 16:00 directly from metro Avtovo to the market. BBCEf f l ) Shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor E-3, Nevsky pr. 35, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Since the 18th century, this large yellow building has been one of St. Petersburg's biggest shopping centres. One circuit of Gostiny Dvor, past the dozens of shops is a kilometre. • Open 10:00 - 22:00. Wed, Thurs 10:00 - 22:30. \mffl \E Mega (Parnas) Murmanskoe shosse, (MJPr. Prosvesheniya, tel. 332 50 01, www.megamall.ru. If you want to make purchases at shops whose names you can read AND recognise, Mega is the mall for you! Vast, light and airy, Mega is complete with Zara, Marks & Spencer, Topshop, Monsoon, IKEA and others. • Open 10:00 - 22:00. Free Mega buses shuttle between the shopping mall and the metro stations Pr. Prosvesheniya (blue line) and Grazhdansky pr. (red line) every 20 minutes. Passazh (Passage) E-3, Nevsky pr. 48, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 312 22 10, www.passage.spb.ru. Impressive, with 180metre long glass roof, there is a top view from the second floor coffee bar. You can buy clothing, jewellery, cosmetics and souvenirs here. • Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun. 11:00 - 21:00. шва Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, (MjVladimirskaya, tel. 331 32 32. The first floor features one of Petersburg's finest bakeries, where you can drink a coffee and eat sweet Russian cakes. • Open 11:00 - 21:00. Supermarkets Land (basement of V (basement Vladimirsky pr. 19, 33. • Open 24hrs. Ш Vladimirsky Passage) E-3, ajDostoevskaya, tel. 331 32 Metro Cash&Carry Komendantsky pr. 3, (M) Pionerskaya, tel. 4491500, Pr. Kosigina 4, (Ml Ladozhskaya, tel. 44916 00, www.metro-cc.ru. • Open 07:00 - 23:00. Ш St. Petersburg In Your Pocket October 2007 inyourpocket Make In Your Pocket Even Better Take part in our readership survey and help us to make our products more relevant to you, and win some exclusive In Your Pocket merchandise. Completing our online survey will take no more than five minutes. Just point your browser to http://survey.inyourpocket.com/survey2007 All those taking part will be entered into a draw for a full set of exclusive In Your Pocket goodies. BUSINESS DIRECTORY h? Accountants & consultants Baker & McKenzie D-3, Ul. Bolshaya Morskaya 57, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 32583 08, www.bakernet.com. • Open 09:00 - 21O0. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG D-2, Ul. Malaya Monetnaya 5, office 22, |M Gorkovs-
kaya, tel. 325 41 55, emg-russia.com. • Open 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst and Young D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23,3rd floor, (M]Nevskypr., tel. 703 78 00, www.ey.com/cis. • Open 08:30 - 19O0. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG D4, Moskovsky pr. 19, (MjTekhnologichesky In., tel. 325 83 48, www.kpmg.ru. • Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers c-3, vo, Sredny pr. 36/40, 4thfloor, M Vasileost rovsakaya. tel. 326 6969, www.pwc. com. • Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Banks ABN AMRO Bank D-3, Ul. Malaya Konyushennaya 1/3, office 14-B, M Nevsky pr., tel. 718 3712, www.abnamro. com. • Open 09:30 - 15O0. Closed Sat, Sun. Dresdner Bank D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 718 5151, www.dresdner-bank.ru. • Open 09:30 -
16:30. Break 13:30 -15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ш Raiffeisen Bank D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 36, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 718 68 00, www.raiffeisen.ru. • Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10O0 -17:00. Closed Sun. ШЦВ Business associations American Chamber of Commerce D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 23, 5th floor, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 326 25 90, www.amcham.ru/stpete. • Open 09:00 - 18O0. Closed Sat, Sun. SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Asso­
ciation for North-Westem Russia E-2, Ul. Shpalemaya 36, office 323, MChernyshevskaya. tel. 32590 91, www. spiba.spb.ru. • Open 09:30 -1800. Closed Sat, Sun. Car Rental Platinum Cars E-3, Zagorodny 11, (MjDostoyevksya, tel. 973 28 82 www.platinumcars.ru/eng/ Lawyers & notaries Castren & Snellman D-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, office 18, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 325 80 85, www.castren.fi. • Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Juralink C-3, Birzhevaya liniya 16, office 316, (MjVas-
ileostrovskaya, tel. 331 75 69, www.juralink.ru • Open 10O0 - 18O0. Closed Sat, Sun. Money transfer Western Union, www.westemunion.com. Office rental Regus D-3, Nevsky pr. 25, 2nd floor, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 346 78 78, www.regus.com. • Open 08:30 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ЦсЩ Real estate Central Real Estate Agency F-3, Nevsky pr. 107, (MjPI. Vosstaniya.tel.324 99 22.rent.allestate.ru. • OpenMon - fii 1000 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 10O0 - 19O0. • Pizza Pasta • Sandwiches • Salads s t Petersburg's /fnestpizzfl Pizza Delivery 3 3 5 4 8 6 4 1 1:3 0 - 2 3:3 0 Free d«tfv«y in the center .mrpizza.ru Mr. Pizza will deliver the pizza to your home and do a little dance for you! City Realty D-3, Muchnoi per. 21st floor, (M]Sennaya, tel. 570 63 42, www.cityrealtyrussia.com. • Open 09:30 -18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Ш Jensen Group D-3, Nab. Kan. Griboedova 10, office 2, (M]Nevsky pr., tel. 32513 06, www.jensen.ru. • Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ШЩ St. Petersburg Realty E-3, Nevsky pr. 41, (MjMaya-
kovskaya, tel. 335 44 01, www.spbrealty.ru. • Open 10:00 - 22:00. Recruitment Ancor E-2, Pr.Chernyshevskogo 1, (MlChernyshevs-
kaya, tel. 329 57 70, www.ancor.ru. • Open 09:00 -
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kelly Services D/E-3, Nevsky pr. 32/34, office 41, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 325 73 00, www.kellyservices.ru. Student organisations AIESEC D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 21, office 17, (M|Gostiny Dvor, tel. 710 56 40, www.aiesec.spb.ru. Laundrette Cafe Stirka D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 26, (MJNevsky pr., tel. 314 53 71. A small, alternative and unique hang-out; Stirka has a good sound system, old sofas and small bar serving cold and hot drinks and snacks. Water-smoking pipes available. You can wash your clothes in the back room laundry machines and sup a beer while you watch them spin... • Open 10O0 - 23O0. (5kg - 140Rbl) October 2007 USEFUL ADDRESSES EXPAT 159 Today in St. Petersburg you can find all the services you would expect in a European city. Bike rental Skatprokat Rent a Bike E/F-3, Ul. Goncharnaya 7, (MJPI. Vostanniya, tel. 717 68 38/8 921 895 29 46, www.skatprokat.ru Bottled water Mir Napitkov A-l, Uzhnaya dor. 25, Kirov Stadium, korpus 4, (MjKrestovsky ostrov, tel. 325 71 71. • Open 10:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Rosinka-Polyustrovo Ul. Tukhachevskogo 4, (MjLado-
zhskaya, tel. 320 20 40, www.polustrovo.ru. • Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -14:00. Dry cleaners Russky Ostrov D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 55, (MjNevky pr., tel. 571 78 77. • Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
19:00. Closed Sun. Language schools Cref Language School D-4, Malodetskoselsky pr. 24, (MiTeknologichesky In., tel. 712 63 27, www.cref. ru. Russian, English and French lessons in a relaxed, calm environment. They focus on communication, rather than grammar and structure, you won't feel like you've stepped into a Russian high school! Health Clinics & hospitals American Medical Clinic & Hospital D-3, Nab. Reky Moiky 78, (MJSadovaya, tel. 740 20 90, www. amclinic.ru. • Open 24hrs. fSgfJU MEDEM International Clinic & Hospital E-3, Ul. Marata 6, (M) Mayakovskaya, tel. 336 33 33, www. medem.ru. • Open 24hrs. ШЩ Russian-Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, (MjGostiny Ovor, tel. 336 77 77, www. avaclinic.ru. • Open 08:00- 22:00, Sun 10;00-
18:00. Ш Dentists Medpal ace E-2, Ul. Chaikovskogo 6, (MJCher-
nyshevskaya, tel. 272 52 91, www.medpalace. ru. • Open 09:00 - 21:00. Ш Pharmacies Natur Produkt E-3, Ul. Vosstaniya 19, Щ PI. VOSS-
taniya, tel. 279 08 30. • Open 24hrs. Petrofarm D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24, MjNevsky pr., tel. 314 54 01. • Open 24hrs. Local, domeitk and international moving services LET OUR SOLUTIONS, GIVE YOU PEACE OF MIND Ul. Pilotov 32. Aviagorodok 196210. Saint-Petersburg. Russia +7 812 449 11 02. e-mail: info@aaa-aissia.com Ltden&Denz E-4, Transportny per. 11, (MjLigovsky Pr, tel. 57210 40, www.russiancourses.com Launderettes May D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, M Nevsky pr., tel. 312 32 33. • Open 11.00 -19:00. Щ System Garant D-3, Sadovaya 29, (MjSennay pi., tel. 310 60 28, www.garant-dev.ru. • Open 09:00 - 20:00. from (200Rbl). Libraries British Council, D-3, Nevsky pr. 32,5 floor, (MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 718 50 60, www.britishcouncil.ru. Open Thurs 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 -17:00, Sat 10:00 -19:00. Foreign Literature Library E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 315 75 65, www.pl.spb.ru. • Daily 12:00 -19:00. Closed Sun and last Thurs of the month. Moving & storage AAA-MOVERS Ul. Pilotov 32, tel. 4491102, www. aaa-russia.com. • Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pro - Taxi F-2, Ul.Sverdlovskaya 4, office 113, |M]PI. Lenina, tel. 449 42 39, alc@mail.ru. • 24hrs From anywhere in St. Petersburg to Pulkovo Airport 1200Rbl. Call 1 - 2 hours in advance. Staff speak English. Гёё] Vets Veterinarnaya Meditsina D-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 313 46 59. This is the vet centre used by the St. Petersburg circus, but domestic dogs and cats are welcome too. The service is friendly and it's not too expensive. • Open 24hrs. INWETEX - Travel Market 03/10 - 05/10 Taking place for the fifteenth time, this exhibition of international and Russian ^ ^ ^ ^ . . tourism operators will take fl I ^ ^ ^ H o v e r t h e LenExpo Exhibi-
;2 ^ ^ в ^ ^ ^ Щ tion Centre giving a fresh .j g ^ l'^ B ^ A perspective on this growing Sf f i ^^L ^ ^ ^ k industry. With a special em-
J s j ^ k ^ ^ r Phasis on business in the V ^ ^ ^ H ^ ^ F resort arena, the collected ^ ^ ^ ^ ^^G^* input of oyer 400 com­
panies will be displayed. Len Expo Exhibition Centre, VO Bolshoy pr. (M) Vasi leost rovskay a. From the metro take marsh rut ka No 183, 690, 349 44 or 309. Open 10:00 -19:00. For more information phone 303 98 78. I The expat community is expanding. We (as expats ourselves) want to let you know about some interesting places for you to join and enjoy. If you would like your group to feature in our listings, please send your contacts to iyp.spb@gmail.com. Expat Contacts Chaine des Rotisseurs, tel. 7 812 329 66 02, www. chaine-russia.com. The oldest gastronomic society in the world, with over 100 active members in St. Petersburg and 65,000 members worldwide. Dutch Drinking Committee, contact@nlv-stpeters-
burg.com, www.nlv-stpetersburg.com. Dutch expatri­
ates gather together to share beer and experiences every last Friday of the month in different bars. They play football every Sunday. Belgian citizens welcome too! Hash House Harriers, tel. 937 64 66, mushroom-
spenders@h3.spb.ru, www.h3.spb.ru. The drinking club with a running problem. • Runs on Sundays. International Women's Club (IWC), iwcstpete® gmail.com, www.iwcstpete.com Diverse, social,friendly group of women residing in St. Petersburg. There are many special interest groups and a general meeting is held once a month. Petersburg Caledonia, tel. 972 44 95, caledonia@ yandex.ru, www.scotland.ru. A charity organisation that also introduces Russians to the culture of Scotland and develops Russian-Scottish business connections. Rotary Club - Saint Petersburg International, tel. 313 5666, president@rotaryinter.ru, www.rotaryinter. ru. Rotary is a worldwide organisation of business and professional leaders that provides humanitarian service and encourages high ethical standards in all vocations. St. Petersburg Women Entrepreneurs, women-
swork.spb@gmail.com. A newly-formed networking group of English-speaking international and Russian women who gather monthly to share ideas, organize professional devel­
opment trainings and socialise. The Swiss Club tel. 781 30 87, martinjschmidt@ hotmail.com. To encourage business relations with the Swiss community. Open to all nationalities. Russian, German, English, French and Italian languages spoken. • Weekly meetings in Cat Restaurant at 3/21 Stremyan-
naya at 20:00. Religious services Anglican Chaplaincy, St. Catherina Church D-3, Ul. Malaya Konyushennaya 1-3, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 571 20 81, www.anglican.ru. Sunday services, at 11O0 (English). Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 571 6619, www.katherine.spb.ru. Daily services 08:30,1900 (Russian); Sat 20:00 (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English). St. Michael's Lutheran Church c-3, VO, Sredny pr. 11, (MjVasileostrovskaya. tel. 323 3317, www.stmihail.ru. St. Petri Congregation (German Lutheran Prot­
estant), St. Peter's Church D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 312 07 98. Services Thurs, Fri 17Ю0, Sun 10:30. The Sha'arei Shalom Progressive Jewish Commu­
nity C-2,7-aya Liniya 34, office 19N, (MjVasileostrovska­
ya, tel. 325 24 32, www.freewebs.com/shaareishalom. Shabbat Services Friday 19O0. YESOD Jewish Community Home Bolshaya Razno-
chinnaya 25a, (MjChkalovskaya, tel. 449 58 85, esod. spb.ru. Shabbat services Friday 19:30. • Open 10:00 - 21.00. Closed Sat. A merican Medi cal С linic &Hospital www.amclinic.com I 24 HOURS A DAY 365 DAYS A YEAR LAPAROSCOPIC SURGERY CENTER .,. AMBULANCE & MEDICAL -*—' TRANSPORTATION CHEST PAIN CENTER 24-HOUR E DEPAR DIAGNOSTICS & LABORATORY INTENSIVE CARE UNIT PAIN MANAGEMENT CENTER La _ 740 21 \ MULTILINGUAL STAFF J INSURANCE BILLING In the heart of the city at 78 Moika Embankment Schools American Montessori Preschool tel. 356 34 46. Anglo-American School Ul. Penkovaya 5, tel. 325 62 47. Anglo-Russian Pre-school (for ages 4 - 6) E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 39, (MlPI. Vosstaniya. P'tit Cref Pre-school D-4, Malodetskoselsky pr. 24, MjTeknologichesky In., tel. 712 63 27, www. ptitcref.ru. Cref offers the unique pre-school alternative of three language instruction. Rus­
sian-English-French are taught in rotation at the school. This system already in operation in their Moscow branch, allows a morning of one language, an afternoon of the next and so on. P'tit Cref has a cheery, relaxed environment with like-minded staff in a very green corner of St. Petersburg. They offer half-day and full-day programs. Languages -
an opening of the world St. Petersburg In Your Pocket P'tit Cref Pre-school. • - — — ^ ^ ^ ^ Three-language (English, French and Russian) pre-school. Russian language course for children. Malodetskoselsky pr.24,tel.712 6327, wvw.ptitcref.ru,spb@cref.ru October 2007 LEVASHOVOAs. во INTERVIEW Satu-Johanna Oksanen hails from Helsinki in Finland and would only ever make borsch from scratch. The twelve years she has spent in Russia, she considers just to be a great start. In Your Pocket caught up with her to see what she has planned for the future. By Jennifer Fell When did you come to Russia? I moved here in early 1996 but my first trip was in 1989 when it was still the Soviet Union. We went to a place called Mariupol, which is nowadays in Ukraine. It was a student trip and we spent three weeks there living with local families. What was that like? Very interesting! Even at that time when my Russian was very poor, but I already had the idea that I wanted to work in Russia. I was still studying and the next year I wrote my thesis about joint venture hotels in Moscow. That was the only place where they existed then. What were your impressions when you arrived? My expectations were met. I wasn't disappointed, it was exciting, it was something different and something unusual, ft took some time before I moved here as I first finished my studies in Finland. Then the Soviet Union collapsed. I wanted to learn more about the hotel business and studied hotel management in France for two years. If irst moved to Moscow and lived in that fascinating city from 1996 - 99 working for a Finnish travel agency before moving to Kazakhstan in 1999. There I was working for Arthur Andersen and was the director of administration of all the 'stans' and one 'jan'. I really enjoyed it there. How long were you there for? I was in Almaty for two years. After Moscow, Almaty seemed like a small village. Thankfully on my first working day, we went to Kyrgyzstan and on the way back from the capital, Bishkek, I just thought what a wonderful city Almaty is. In 20011 returned to Moscow with the same company. Although my heart was still in the hotel business, I first worked here for 2 years in tourism, promoting Finland as a destination at the Finnish Tourist Board. In 2004,1 started working at Corinthia Nevskij Palace Hotel. Now you're Director of Sales and Marketing of Holiday Club St. Petersburg and Sokos Hotels. When did you start there? April 2006. The company is called Sokotel and here in Russia we have two brands, Holiday Club and Sokos Hotels. Our first hotel in St. Petersburg is a 5-star spa hotel - Holiday Club St.Petersburg - and the second one, opening in Dec-Jan near Metro Tekhnologichesky Institute will be a Sokos Hotel. I really enjoy workingfor this company- the team spirit is excellent and everybody is full of positive energy! St. Petersburg In Your Pocket What do you like about working in the hotel industry? It's a people industry. I like being around people. When I was small and travelled with my parents, hotels were the places where it was always fun. Hotels and Russia have always been the two things for me and now I'm happy to have been able to combine those two. Tell us about setting up the new hotel? It's interesting. There are lots of challenges but basically anything in Russia is up to your attitude. How you take it. In Finland you might go straight from A to В but here you leave from A, go kind of around to E and then get to B. As a chain, we have to bring the chain knowledge to Russia but at the same time we need the local managers. What is the new hotel like? The Holiday Club hotel and part of the restaurants will open in October - our pride will be the Spa and Wellness world which we have to wait until February-March 2008 for. Spas are very trendy at the moment all over the world and I am sure that the Wellness world with a pool, 8-9 different types of saunas, massage and treatment rooms will be no exception. We will also sell memberships. And the main differences between Finland and Russia? It is more interesting here. It's a big city, and everything is constantly changing here - life in Finland is just too predictable. What is the most satisfying part of fife in Russia? At the moment it is my work. I really enjoy it. Even though I'm not a morning person, nowadays I get up more easily as it's just so nice to go to work! What advice would you give people moving here? Come with an open mind. You have to adapt and understand how things work. Don't come with any preconceptions. Here, people are loyal to other people more so than to companies. And people are passionate about their jobs, willing to work long hours. In the workplace there is a feeling of real community. Secrets from the spa. Three phrases to describe yourself? Unafraid of chal lenges, ready to fight injustice, emotional. Do you have a favourite restaurant? Mops, the Thai res­
taurant on Rubinschteina, and the Indonesian, Sukawati. Favourite Neighbourhood. The area around Hermitage, St. Isaac's and the Admiraldty. Where do you live in the city? In that area. In an old building from 1798. Here, I love the element of water; the canals and the gulf. When I was in Moscow and Kazakhstan, this is what I really missed. If you weren't living here, where would you live? That's easy. Vietnam. It's an interesting country that is also going through changes, I like that part of the world. Actually the climate is the only thing in Russia that I am not a fan of. I could easily live without the winters! Most reliable dish to cook? Borsch! ft requires a lot of work so it's not often that I make it. You are almost Russian, if you are making borsch from scratch! From scratch, naturally. METRO MAP 61 Bugry Routes H ^ ^ KjiovsKo-tyborgswya ^ ^ M '< MoskovskoPetrrjoradskaya H ^ r" 3 Nevsko-Vas*eostro»sKaya • j f ) » Prawbereztmaya Stations i ^ 3 > Interchange stations ( w) Exit/entrance direction ff\ Underground nterchange * directions - SHIJ ©
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NAB. 3 R 0 B M $ S" CHAYKOVSKI Germani se lYAKlROCHra]g IANEZHNY fitllariL .^-skA-» Bulgaria. Я * SAK>RH£> K R .nj gj LENSIrt BASKO^teREULOrf*^ UL..u|*NEKBASOVA; " 5 г д а Е Ш| Litl u; 6 ft! JJL ашйэуЦкщ A " •£? 3 2* ~ -: r m " ' ~ • Anichffiv Q M S^i brf^ ^ '-лаг с. ч^щ ^v-^. * £ Г * 5Глг <*г Г- и, pear,.яs • ;T House of t ht t i ^pf c „ # ._...->, "Pr^teclienskV^ fppgdromny 6e/y Osfrov 5SHPALERNAYAgULITSA T> RASTHELLI ?,: " ^4LUSA : # ~~? + %^ r a n e.-. 4 JPSA_ № > «, is^uv№Eholai| iailnlnl 2в=|.у Azwtlai)ui_ S » S ..23 a Most , PIOSCHAD AiB^ANORA NEVSK0G0J ^ Bo t k i n Hoh- TniiinJCathedi** у^ЦцШу, | «ВТ rdnt* \y Armenia C/D-3, Ul. Dekabristov 22, ap. 13, (MjSennaya pi., tel. 717 72 36. Australia E-3, Italyanskaya ul. 1, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 325 73 33. Austria E-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 43, |MChernishevskaya. tel. 275 05 02. Azerbaijan E-4, Ligovsky pr., 49, (M|Ligovsky prospect, tel. 717 29 44. Bangladesh C-3, VO, 3rd Line 8, (MjVasileostrovskaya, t el. 328 55 38. Belarus F-2, Bonch-Bruevicha ul. ЗА, (MjChernyshevskaya, tel. 273 4164. Brazil 6th Verkhny Pereulok 3, (MjPr. Prosveshcheniya, tel. 703 74 58. Bulgaria E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 27, (MjChernishevskaya, tel. 273 4018. Cuba A-3, Ul. Nakhimova 7, building 2, office 67, (MjPrimor-
skaya, tel. 356 37 27. Cyprus E-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 27, (MjChernishevskaya. tel. 380 78 00. Czech Republic F-2, Tverskaya ul. 5, (MjChernishevskaya. tel. 2714612. Denmark Bolshaya al. 13, (MjChernaya Rechka, tel. 703 39 00. Estonia D-2, Bolshaya Monet-
naya ul. 14, (MjGorkovskaya, tel. 702 09 20. Finland E-2, Preobrazhenskaya pi. 4, (MjChernishevskaya. tel. 331 76 00. France D-3, Nab. reky Molky 15, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 332 22 70. Georgia E-3, Nevsky pr. 65, 7th floor, (MjNevsky pr., t el. 318 47 32. Germany E-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 39, (MjChernishevskaya, t el. 320 24 00. Greece E-2, Pr. Chernyshevsk-
ogo 17, (MjChernyshevskaya, tel. 334 35 86. Hungary E-3, Ul. Marata 15, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 312 64 58. China C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 134, (MjSennaya pi., tel. 714 76 70. STREET REGISTER Aleksandra Nevskogo pi. F-3 Aleksandra Nevskogo Aleksandra Bloka ul. Angliskaya nab. Antonenko per. Arsenalnaya nab. Baskov per. Batareinaya dor. Blokhina ul. (PS) Bol.Konyushennaya ul Bol. Zelenina ul. Bolshaya Morskaya ul Bolshoy Kazachy per. Bolshoy pr. (PS) Bolshoy pr. (VO) Boytsova per. Bronnitskaya ul. Chaykovskogo ul. Dekabristov pi. Dekabristov ul. Dobrolyubova pr. (PS) Dostoevskogo ul. Dumskaya ul. Dvortsovaya nab. Dvortsovaya pi. Efimovaii. ul. F-3 C-4 C-3 C-3 E-2 E-3 A/B-l C/D-2 D-3 C-l/2 D-3 D-4 C/D-2 B/C-3 D-4 D-4 E-2 D-3 04/D-3 C/D-2 D-3 D-3 D-2/3 D-3 D-3/4 Fontanki reki nab. D-4/E-2/3 Furshtatskaya ul. Gagarinskaya ul. Gaternaya ul. Glinki ul. Gorokhovaya ul. Grafsky per. Griboedova kan. nab. Inzhenernaya ul. Isaakievskaya pi. Iskusstv pi. E-2 E-2 C/D-3 D-4 D-3 E-3 D-3/4 E/D-3 D-3 E-3 Italyanskaya ul. Izmaylovsky pr. Kaluzhsky per. E/D-3 D-4 F-2 Kanal Griboedova D-3/E-3/4 Kamennoostrovsky pr. Karavannaya ul. Karpovky nab. reky Kazanskaya pi. Kirochnaya ul. Kirpichny per. Konnogvardeysky bul. Korablestroitely ul. D-l/2 E-3 D-l D-3 E/F-2 D-3 C/D-3 A-2/3 Krasnoarmeyskaya 1-ya ul.D-4 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika F-3 Krestovsky pr. Kronverksky pr. (PS) Krykova kanala nab. Kutuzova nab. E Kuybysheva ul. (PS) Kuznechny per. Lenina pi. Lermontovsky pr. B/C-2 D-2 C/D-4 -2/D-l D-2 E-3 E-2 C-4 Leytenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Ligovsky pr. Liteiny pr. Lomonosova ul. Lva Tostogo pi. Makarova nab. Mai. Konyushennaya ul. Mai. Morskaya ul. Mai. Posadskaya ul. (PS Malaya Sadovaya ul. Malodetskoselskу pr. E-3/4 E-2/3 E-3 D-l C-2 D-3 D-3 ) D-2 C-3 D-4 Maly pr. (VO) B-3/C-2/3 Manezhnaya pi. Marata ul. Marsovo Pole E-3 E-3/4 D-2/3 Iceland Ul. Telmana 24, (MjLo-
monosovkaya, tel. 326 85 80. India E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 35, (MjCher­
nishevskaya. tel. 27219 88. Israel F-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8b, (MjChernyshevskaya, tel. 272 78 87. Italy 0-4, Teatralnaya pi. 10, [MSennaya pi., tel. 312 3217. Japan D-3, Nab. reky Molky 29, [MjNevsky pr., tel. 31414 34. Latvia C-3, VO, 10th Liny 11, (MjVasileostrovskaya, tel. 327 60 54. Lithuania E-3, Ul. Ryleeva 37, (MjChernishevskaya, tel. 327 3167. Luxemburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 58, MjGostiny Dvor, tel. 718 34 50. Malta D-4, UI.8 Krasnoarmeis-
kay, 6A /5, (MjTekhnologlches-
kiy Inst., tel. 449 47 80. Monaco C-3, Angliiskaya nab. 42, м; Nevsky pr., tel. 312 53 96. Netherlands D-3, Nab. reky Molky 11, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 334 02 00. Mayakovskogo ul. Medikov pr. Mikhaylova ul. Millionnaya ul. Moskovsky pr. Mokhovaya ul. Morskoy pr. Moyki reki nab. Mytninskaya nab. (PS) Nakhimova ul. Nalichnaya ul. Nekrasova ul. E-3 D-l E-2 D-3 D-4 E-2/3 B/C-l C/D-3 D-2 A/B-3 A/B-3 E-3 Nevsky pr. D/E/F-3 Novosmolenskaya nab A-2 Obvodnogo kan.nab. D/E/F-4 Odoyevskogo ul. Ostrovskogo pi. Perekupnoy per Pestelya ul. F"etrovskaya nab. (PS) Pirogovskaya nab. Podezdnoy per. Pochtamtskaya ul. Potemkkiskaya ul. Pravdy ul. Professora Popova ul. B-2 E-3 F-3 E-3 D-2 D-l E-4 D-2 F-2 E-4 C-l/2 Proletarskoy Diktatury pi. F-2 Pskovskaya ul. Pushkinskaya ul. Razezzhaya ul. Rmskogo-Korsakova pr Rizhsky pr. Rubinshteina ul. Ryleeva Ы. C-4 E-3 E-3/4 C/D-^ C-4 E-3 E-3 Sadovaya ul. D-3/4.E-4, C-4 Sermayapl. Shpalernaya ul. D-3 F-2 Norway D-3, Nevsky pr. 25, (MjNevsky pr., tel. 336 64 20. Philippines C-3, VO, Bolshoy pr. 9/6, (MjVasileostrovskaya, tel. 32613 55. Poland F-3, 5th Sovetskaya ul. 12/14, MjPI- Vosstaniya, tel. 336 3141. Republic Korea E-3, ul Nekra­
sova, (MjChernishevskaya, tel. 448 19 09. Romania D-3, Ul.Gorokhovaya 4. (MjSennaya pi, tel. 335 08 44. Slovakia Ul. Orobely 21/2, |g]Pi-
onerskaya, tel. 294 36 66. Sweden D-3, Malaya Konyushen­
naya ul. 1-3. MjNevsky pr., tel. 32914 30. Switzerland E-3, Ul. Marata 11, (MjMayakovskaya, tel. 327 0817. Thailand C-3, VO, Bolshoy pr. 9/6, M;Vasileostrovskaya. tel. 325 62 71. Ukraine F-2, Ul. Bonch-Brun-
evi chal V, (MjChernishevskaya. tel. 27114 02. United Kingdom F-2, PI. Prole­
tarskoy Diktatury 5, MjCherni­
shevskaya. tel. 320 32 00. USA E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya 15, (MjChernishevskaya. t el. 331 26 00. Sovetskaya 3-ya ul. Sovetskaya 5-ya ul. Sredny prosp. Suvorovsky pr. Tavricheskaya ul. Teatralnaya pi. Transportny per. Truda pi. Tsentralnaya pi. Tuchkov per. Tverskaya ul. Uralskaya ul. Vitebskaya ul. Vladimirsky pr. Vosstanya pi. Voznesensky pr. Yuzhnaya dor. Zagorodny pr. E-
Zhdanovskaya ul. Zverisnksya ul. Zhukovskogo ul. 2-3 linii (VO) 4-5 linii (VO) 6-7 linii (VO) PS-PetrogradSide VO - vasievsky Island UL -Li tsa-Street Per. - Pereutok - Lane Pr. - Prospekt - Prospect Sq. - Ptoschad - Square U-Liniya-Lre Dor. - Doroga - Road BuL-BUvar - Botievard AJ.-Aleya-Aley Retc-Reka/i-River F-3 F-3 B/C-3 F-2/3 F-2/3 C/D-3 E-4 C-3 B-l C-2/3 F-2 B-2 C-4 E-3 E-3 D-3/4 A-l 3/E/D-4 C-2 C-2 E-3 C-2/3 C-2/3 C-2/3 Nab. - Naberezrmaya - Embankment hours MASS/. classical relaxing erotic Swedish Thai-massa^ SAUNA: soap-massa£ peeling-mas: massage with honey or salt S AF www.arrodita-spa.i Nevsky st. 98, 3 floo tel. (812) 273-98-11 tel. (812) 273-98-3! St. Petersburg In Your Pocket 
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