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Auxiliary №01

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Auxiliary Magazine is an alternative fashion, music, and lifestyle magazine available online for free. auxiliarymagazine.com DECEMBER / JANUARY 2009 / 2008
Goth!
a dark aesthetic we love
Kambriel
Blacklist by Lip Service
Gothic : Dark Glamour exhibition
my life as a goth girl
have yourself a gothic little xmas and more...
meanwhile back in the jungle . . .
new Massiv in Mensch
Festivities
beauty and fashion for this season’s parties and social gatherings
issue 1 : december 2008 edi tori al
4 l etter from the edi tor
4 mi ssi on statement
6 sel f vs. communi ty
7 al ternati ve model?
beauty
10 festi ve beauty
ri ch col ors, feathers, and l ace create the
perfect l ooks for the season
16 you need not fear col or
beauty ti ps on how to change up your
makeup
18 beauty pi cks
medi a
19 gothi c : dark gl amour at FIT Museum
20 twi l i ght
21 asi an ci nema pri mer
a where to start gui de to asi an ci nema
22 movi e revi ews
Control and The Fal l
22 documentary revi ews
Thi s Fi l m i s Not Yet Rated
l i festyl e
26 have yoursel f a gothi c l i ttl e xmas
decorati ng ti ps for a more al t hol i day
on the cover
Goth! : 19, 23, 26, and 50 meanwhi l e back i n the j ungl e : 33
festi vi ti es : 10, 40, and 50
28 dear chri ssi e
29 the Pi nUp
Dessa Fel l i n Ego Assassi n
musi c
33 massi v i n mensch revi ews
the new al bum meanwhi l e back i n the
j ungl e
34 musi c revi ews
FGFC820, Ei nsturzende Neubauten, A Ki ss
Coul d Be Deadl y, and more
fashi on
37 anatomy of an al t wardrobe : the basi cs
a how to gui de for your wardrobe
38 sepi a col ored gl asses
current trends i n al ternati ve fashi on 40 men wi th styl e
fashi on i s for men too and these guys
prove i t... N3wt, Steve of The Rabi es, and
Derek of Renai ssance Tattoo
50 i nvi tati on onl y
a fashi on edi tori al featuri ng Bl ackl i st by
Li p Servi ce, Kambri el, and more
59 where to buy
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december 2008 AUXILIARY
contents
Photographer : Jenni fer Li nk
Styl i st : Meagan Breen
Makeup : Makeup Massacre
Hai r : SharonTK
Model : SharonTK letter from the editor
Welcome to the first issue of Auxiliary Magazine! Auxiliary Magazine is a magazine dedicated to alternative fashion, music, and lifestyle. But you can read more about the idea behind our magazine in the mission statement. In this issue we focused on winter and the upcoming holidays. You’ll find two photo editorials on women’s win-
ter fashions and beauty for parties and the holidays. As we started to work on these editorials a few months back, Meagan Breen (our fashion editor) and I were very into lace and textures and dark romantic colors, popular in high fashion trends, and we saw them as fitting for the winter months and holiday social gatherings. We sought out alternative fashion designers that fit what we were into, and in alternative fashion this seemed to translate into a dark and elegant sort of goth style. From there this focus on the goth aesthetic seemed to explode. With an article on decorating for the holiday season and one titled “my life as a goth girl” it was clear what direction this issue had taken. But perhaps it is more than just us who is currently focused on this style. When examining current trends in alternative fashion, our contributor Sally Reardon came to focus on three styles that look for inspiration in the past, something the goth style does in drawing from Victorian fashions. And perhaps the fashion in-
dustry as a whole is looking toward this aesthetic, this seems to be a safe assumption, with proof like FIT putting together an exhibit titled “Gothic: Dark Glamour”. So perhaps this was our focus for this issue, but alternative fashion does not stop there! We have high hopes to cover a lot of different styles in this magazine. So check back next issue to see what our new obsession is. Thank you for reading our first issue, and we hope you enjoy. I would also like to thank everyone who contributed to this issue and made it possible.
Sincerely,
Jennifer Link
mission statement
Auxiliary Magazine. Auxiliary = alternative, supplementary, to provide what is miss-
ing, to give support. We have always had a love for the dark, the different, the unique, the creative. But from all sides we’ve heard what we love is on it’s way out, is suffering, is dying, is dead. Today an alternative aesthetic is seen more than ever. Yet the core, the base, the scene (gasp!); everyone is telling us is in a sad state. Reality is what you make it. Our goal is to provide high quality fashion editorials, photographs, and articles; unique reviews and insights on the best music out there; and to create discussion and passion about alternative lifestyles. There is a lot of amazing and creative stuff hap-
pening. We hope to find it, highlight it, and encourage it to grow.
And that is why we’ve created Auxiliary Magazine; an online magazine dedicated to fashion, music, and lifestyle with a darker aesthetic. There are no other boundaries than that. That is the strong point of alternative culture; and we hope to include it all.
And that is a lot of ground to cover. So contribute! Send us your fashion, your music, your events, your opinions, your projects, your ideas. This magazine isn’t for a select few, we don’t know it all, this magazine is for you and what we all love.
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AUXILIARY december 2008
contributors
Staff
Editor in Chief
Jennifer Link
Fashion Editor
Meagan Breen
Music Editor
Mike Kieffer
Associate Editor
Luke Copping
Logo Design
Melanie Beitel
www.auxiliarymagazine.com
email : info@auxiliarymagazine.com
issue 1 : december 2008
Photographs/Illustrations
Photographer
Jennifer Link
www.jennifer-link.com
Photographer
Luke Copping
www.lukecopping.com
Photographs on page 19 (left to right)
Dan Lecca courtesy Rodarte, MFIT, and Irving Solero
Photographs on pages 26 and 28
Meagan Breen
Illustration on page 28
James S. Cole
www.angels2zombies.com
Photograph on page 38
Sequoia Emmanuelle
www.sequoiaemmanuelle.com
Black Lotus Clothing
www.blacklotusclothing.com
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electron-
ic or mechanical, without the permission in writting from the publisher, except small excerpts for review purposes. Submitted work, reviews, ads, and photographs are copyrighted by their respective owners and fall under previous declaration. Copy-
right Auxiliary Magazine 2008.
Contributors
Aaron Andrews
DJ ArcaTek
Meagan Breen
W Edward Cook
Luke Copping
Rachel Covert
Chrissie
Kirsten Fiebelkorn
Mike Kieffer
Alex Kourelis
DJ Leah
Jennifer Link
Rachel Mazurek
Paul Morin
Razorgrrl
Sally Reardon
Ashley Schimenti
SharonTK
Teresa
Vanity Kills
self vs. community
When I was asked to write this article, I was a bit embarrassed. I tend to get worked up about a topic, rant my brains off about it, and then put it out of my mind for a good long while. The topic of self versus community was a hot button of mine during the last summer, but it had seen its rant and I’d then been distracted from it.
However, after thinking about it for a little while, that’s not really true. In fact over the last few months this one idea had spread in so many different directions that I mistook it for a whole new forest of issues.
Self versus community is a very tricky subject to tackle, because it can be looked at in so many different ways. It can be a kaleidoscope of ethics, economics, and culture. Right now the world that we live in is at a loss as to how to deal with the simple ques-
tion: what am I entitled to as a human being?
The most obvious interpretation of that question would be viewed as a subject of human rights, the basic dignity that should be allowed to all people – a guarantee of the necessities of survival. There is an obvious lack of this internationally and even intranationally if we have the stomach to look.
A more subtle approach to what the human being is entitled to, or what we as a spe-
cies needs in order to truly be free, extends beyond the necessities of survival. There are greater necessities we need to live rather than just survive. Life to me has always been a matter of freedom. In fact as a twenty something, nearly all of my efforts since graduating high school have been spent in an effort to attain economic freedom to some degree. Economic freedom to me has been a matter of increasing my income to a point where I can spend money on things other than the necessities of survival. To be free to choose where to spend my money, and to have the power to get the things I desire.
During years I’ve spent in higher education and working in a variety of jobs, I’ve begun to notice that there seems to be a very disturbing trend. This trend being that our society does not stop at merely taking years of our lives in academia, climbing a corporate ladder, or braving the unstable entrepreneurial seas, it also takes more than its fair portion from our personal time. This may not sound like something terrible at first, but let us consider that we are human beings first, and employees and students second. We are people, not “associates”, “team members”, or “staff”. We work so that we may take the benefits of contributing our time to a pooled arrangement of resources (which is any business, government, or non-profit) so that we may reap the most possible profit from our labor.
Our economy is such that it is driven to take as much as it possibly can from those who work within it for the sake of making money. In a balanced world, those that work the hardest would reap the most benefit. In this world though, those that work the hardest, generally get paid the least. Those who are higher up the pyramid, those that have the most power, pay themselves the most, and give away only enough to by W Edward Cook
ensure that they get the maximum amount of production out of their workers. If you think this is sounding like a “cogs in the machine” argument, you’re right. If you’re thinking that arguments like this have no place in a post-industrial economy, think again. We may no longer be factory workers, sitting side-by-side with other bits of machinery, cranking out car after car; instead we are software engineers, writing line after line of code. We are marketing representatives selling the latest piece of technological wonderment to client companies. We are program coordinators fretting over our job description.
The difference between industrial factory workers and service-based careers in the information age is that a factory worker leaves the factory, and never has to think about work until they show up the next day. Today, in order to do our job we are forced more and more to continually research on our spare time to do a job that is constantly changing. So often we hear about the rapid pace of the world today, we never pause to consider what this is doing to us, and whether we should allow it to happen.
The individual is having life dictated to them by the community. This is wrong. This should not happen. While it’s true that this is not something new, community has been dictating lifestyle to the individual for millennia, however, never before have we as individuals had such an ability to choose our lives for ourselves. In centuries past, the community made decisions “for the greater good” on the basis that it forced us to do unpleasant things for the sake of survival. Now, however, we know how to do survival. We have enough gadgetry to make sure that all of us (not that we have cho-
sen to act on this ability) have the necessities of life: food, warmth, and shelter. Now we have the ability to live. In the global village, where information cross-pollinates ideas across the globe via the internet, and available to anyone with a computer and modem, the individual has the ability to change the community. The community is something controlled from the top down by those in power. Now, for the first time, the individual, those of us all over the pyramid, can easily communicate and orga-
nize. We can decide what the community will be. This isn’t mere democracy (or even the sham of a representative democracy in the U.S.), this is pan-consciousness. This is something undreamt of by the ancient Greeks. Not only can we all vote our opinion, we decide what the topic of the discussion is, because we have access to all points of view.
Once, the individual needed the community to survive. Now the individual is in a community so huge that there is no community. Only individuals. It’s about time the individual remembered what it meant to have a choice in life. Not the tawdry black and white, silver-screen choice made popular with The Matrix, or the choice of what pre-set lifestyle one wants in Office Space, and certainly not the ridiculously violent choice of what we want to destroy to make our voice heard in Fight Club. We can grow up and change the world by insisting on living life as we want to. Subscribe to an ideal of your choosing, and make sure it’s yours. Community like life is now what we make of it.
alternative model?
So you want to be an alternative fashion model eh? The problem is, does anyone know what that really means? I truly don’t think there is a definition for this but the modeling industry seems to think it is. Do we all have tattoos? Is our hair to be a certain off-color of the rainbow? Do we only like to wear latex or dress in ant shopping mall fashions? Maybe we like to wear our make up a little too heavy and like to be photographed in “dark environments”?
Well, whatever the definition “alternative” modeling seems to be hitting the mainstream modeling culture. It is slowly but surely invading mainstream magazines such as Elle, Cosmo, and Harper’s Bazaar. Just the other day I saw a spread that had latex pieces in it. Or what about all the models with tattoos and bright hair? What about Dita Von Tease in the front rows of the Jean Paul Gaultier show? I’m pretty sure that high fashion magazines would like to believe that they are “discovering” these underground secrets. Those of us who know and live the lifestyle know otherwise, that these fashions are more mainstream than they’d like or want to believe.
Smaller magazines such as Marquis, Shut Up, Inked, Cause a Scene, Bizarre, Skin Two, Leg Show, UCE, etc. know what’s up! They recognize that fetish, tattoo, pinup, and high fashion are the basis for mainstream fashion ideas and layouts. I’m pretty certain that all these famous fashion designers secretly read and research these cultures. You always see touches of these cultures in fashion shows such as: Victoria’s Secret, Gaultier, Versace, Chanel, McQueen, and Galliano. Do I consider myself an alternative model? Shit, I don’t even know what that means! And I’m pretty sure not many people in the industry know what category to put me in. Yeah, I meet the measurement requirements for and agency, but oh no, I have tattoos and my hair is a brighter shade of red than the norm! I like all styles of modeling, why limit myself to just one category? I believe that keeping a portfolio showing a wide range of looks will in the end get you the most paid work, so far it has worked to my advantage. So let’s rap this up. I don’t know if there ever really was a point to this or if it’s just a random rant, but whatever it was is, really it’s up to you to decide. I just want it to be heard, I just want it to be known, that without the underground world of modeling (to those of use who can’t get signed because of stupid little things that the big guns deem unworthy) they would soon be running out of ideas and inspirations! Because one thing I do know is that “alternative models” are nonetheless some of the most inspiring people in the business! Viva la alternative chicas! by SharonTK
Let us know what you think! We think it is important that alternative culture has a voice on important and current topics. Our editorial section is for our opinions.
email : editorial@auxiliarymagazine.com
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december 2008 AUXILIARYAUXILIARY december 2008
7
festive beauty
r i ch col or s, f eat her s, and l ace cr eat e t he per f ect l ook s f or t he s eas on
Photographer : Jenni f er Li nk
Fashi on Styl i st : Meagan Breen
Makeup Arti st : Makeup Massacre
Hai r Styl i st : Meagan Breen and SharonTK
Model s : SharonTK and Mel ani e Bei t el
AUXILIARY december 2008 december 2008 AUXILIARY
AUXILIARY december 2008 december 2008 AUXILIARY
AUXILIARY december 2008 december 2008 AUXILIARY
Lashes - Makeup Forever
available at www.sephora.com . $14
Feathers, sparkles, and neon colors - OH MY! Drama all the way, baby! You don’t like drama, you say. Why the hell are you in the Goth scene again, I ask. When I say NOBODY at the bar will pass you by when the “windows to your soul” are adorned with a pair of these, I mean it. Every single time I wear faux eyelashes to the club, I can be sure that all eyes will be on me (I mean they are anyway, but I digress). Logic dictates that if you’re going to make googly eyes at hot boys, you should probably stand out from a sea of girls whose lashes sport nothing but two coats of Maybelline’s Great Lash Mascara (Great for the office, but it won’t make your lashes the center-
piece of your face like a pair of these will).
see Melanie Beitel wearing Makeup Forever Lashes in Festive Beauty on page 11
MegaLiner Liquid Eyeliner in Turquoise - Wet N Wild
available at most drugstores . www.wnwbeauty.com . $3
Ladies, consider this one of my biggest beauty secrets. While I love high end makeup as much as any other fashion snob does, upon scoring a bargain such as this I always feel like I just saw the true face of God. I’ve gotten quite a few compliments on this particular brand and shade of liquid eyeliner. If you do a swatch test of this exact color placed next to a swatch of $14 liner, $28 liner, and $32 liner respectively, you cannot tell the drugstore brand apart from it’s pricier counterparts. It is the epitome of guilt free makeup bag upgrades. It’s under $5 and you can find it in any store that has a Wet N Wild end cap. Metallic blues, greens, and silvers in any of their permutations are the corner stone of cybergoth makeup. A singular line (I leave the thickness up to you) drawn near the lashline is bound to give much needed life to your boring out-
dated cat eye routine. Paired with gunmetal and silver eyeshadows, it’s sure to give your face some android princess flair. And with all the money you saved you’ll now have the perfect excuse to buy the Plastik Wrap dress that goes with your eyeliner. By the way, when someone asks where you got your eyeliner from, you are hereby given permission to go ahead and tell a bold faced lie: “Oh it was totally limited edi-
tion MAC and they so don’t make it anymore.”
Luxury Lipstick Cap - Urban Decay
available at www.sephora.com . $15
If you find the concept of spending $15 on a decorative lipstick cap utterly asinine, consider giving it as a gift (with the upcoming holidays and all) to the “Goth Girl who feels like it is her life’s mission to one up everyone else at the club”. Yeah, we all know one of those. The one who must own everything in the gothest shade of GOTH. Wiping her ass with white toilet paper just won’t do, Raven Nightshade IS her legal name, and why yes, those are REAL fangs. The mock wrought iron cap will look just lovely on her 59th tube of Manic Panic lipstick (she goes through about 20 of them a year). It will be totally darling, in some pathetic sort of way. Steal it back when she’s being a bitch.
Voila! Now that I allowed you to peek into the inner sanctum of my ever expanding makeup case(s), I can’t help but feel slightly like a drug dealer. “Try a little bit of color for a change, it won’t hurt you,” is a phrase that I hear myself saying often. This often progresses to an adventure at the nearest MAC counter followed by a pit stop at Sephora. Before I know it I’m blamed for the credit card rape that follows and am accused of sending people straight to the poor house. You know what though, that’s okay. I consider it a job well done. As long as you’re not selling your body in the streets to fund the latest MAC Holiday collection, you should be okay. After all there are much worse addic-
tions you can have.
<3 Vanity Kills
you need not fear COLOR
The words “Goth Girl” conjure up several images in the heads of those unfamiliar with the ins and out of the scene. The above mentioned combination of adjective and noun means the following to your average Joe: spiked collars, black trench coats, and kinky lesbian makeouts at the local fetish night. We tend to roll our eyes at these stereotypes and the more fashionably evolved/culturally savvy of us do not generally reinforce the mainstream’s cliché and outdated idea of us. Admittedly some of us can trace our subcultural identity back to cheesy mallgoth days where Crow makeup and oversized bondage chain addled Tripp pants reigned supreme in our closets. Alas hopefully we evolved past that disastrously experimental portion of our lives and moved on to better and more elegant fashions. If that’s not the case then you’re probably scratching your head trying to figure out why I’m being so harsh when speaking of your beloved Eric Draven facial doodles. If that’s you then you’re not ready. Come back in a few years when you were laughed out of enough clubs and are fed up with people constantly bursting out in laughter the second they view your MySpace galleries. Come when you are introduced to Kleenex and makeup remover. When the student is ready, the master will appear.
For now I will not waste my precious time on you.
So to whom do I speak to today?
At this very moment, I shall address those who feel like they’re stuck in a makeup rut. The nostalgia stricken individuals who had a sudden epiphany in the midst of perusing their 1998 goth club shots. Somewhere between the drunken photos full of Kiss tongues, devil horns, rolled eyes, and double chins it dawned on them that they haven’t changed their makeup in 10 years. Fear not, help is coming. You don’t have to be a slave to Manic Panic’s Goth White Foundation, Vampire Veil Pressed Powder, el cheapo Halloween store brand black lipstick, and drugstore black eyeliner. Matter of factly… step away from them… at once. This is an order. There is life beyond the black liner/black lashes/
white face/black lips and alternatively (if you’re feeling extra daring there, cowgirl) black liner/black lashes/white face/red lips combo that you clung onto oh so dearly for so many years. What I’m about to tell you might leave you holding onto your Sisters albums for dear life while shouting “Heresy! Burn her, she’s a witch” in my general direction. So sit down, smoke a clove, and take a breath my dear spooky child. The truth of the matter is that you can only DO SO MUCH with black without looking just like you did last weekend… and the one before that. Without further ado, what I’m trying to say is that you need not fear color. It does not bite and it is not the devil. Alas tread slowly, for the line between haute couture inspired fabulousness and tranny clown is very thin. Introduce color slowly, learn to blend to the point where you can do it in a moving vehicle after 10 shots of tequila and for the love of all that is holy DO NOT WEAR HOT PINK FROM LASH LINE TO EYEBROW. Alas experiment (10 minutes before the year’s biggest festival is probably not a good time to try a pumpkin orange and Superman blue combo), because not everything works for everyone. Some people pull off pink and blue in that cute Harajuku Candygoth type of way, others look like washed up 80’s pornstars. Your mileage might vary.
Try these Vanity Kills approved beauty picks to keep the contents of your coffin purse exciting:
by Vanity Kills
Vanity Kills thinks your look might be getting old! beauty tips on how to change up your makeup
Gas Mask Heart Compact - Retro a Go Go
available at www.retroagogo.com . $14
Tough enough for the rivet girl who rolls her eyes at goth chicks who are too “prissy” (It’s all good though, we’ll still steal your man), yet feminine enough for those of us who enjoy a good mix of dainty and industrial strength. Plus there is no excuse for you to carry around a Covergirl compact. We’re no longer in Junior High where drugstore pressed powder compacts, Vanilla Fields perfume, and Bonne Bell lipgloss compose acceptable purse fillers.
Jumbo Pencil in Purple - Sephora Brand
available at www.sephora.com . $5
My seemingly neverending quest to find a purple eye color that DID NOT SUCK was a futile endeavor for a very long time. It began to look like I will sooner find a non-asshole boyfriend than a true purple. That prophecy did not come to pass, since I picked up this pencil at my neighborhood Sephora earlier this year. Ladies, this one is impressive and for a measly five bucks it is too good to pass up. It stands on its own with its slightly shimmering violet hue that draws immediate attention to one’s gaze. However I love layering it under deep violet shades as well as lighter shimmery lilacs in order to give them an extra oomph. If you are a frequent wearer of purple then you will know how hard it can be to make it pop. I’ve come across my fair share of crappily pigmented chalky excuses for purple. I’m glad to report that this Sephora pencil might just be the Messiah of all sucky purple shades. Have a purple shade so completely made of FAIL that you are just about to toss it? Try lining your lower eyelids with the above mentioned pencil and add a coat or two of your purple shadow dud on top of it. You might just bring that sucker back to life.
GLOSS PUR Black - Yves Saint Laurent
available at www.sephora.com . $28
In case you don’t follow the exciting world of high fashion, allow me to fill you in. The runways for the 2008 Fall collections were brimming with models whose lips were decked out in charcoal black. This gloss was created for those who want to capture the spirit of catwalk chic without committing to all out black matte lips, which can be too much for even the most adventurous mainstream fashionistas. And we should care why? Because. If you’re having black lipstick separation anxiety, you can give it new life by adding a coat of this gloss on top of it. Your lips can now match your favorite black vinyl mini dress. An old favorite with a modern update. You really don’t get much more “best of both worlds” than that.
december 2008 AUXILIARYAUXILIARY december 2008 16 17
“Although popularly identified with black-clad teenagers and rock musicians, the gothic has also been an important theme in contemporary fashion. The imagery of death and decay, the power of horror, and the erotic macabre are perversely attrac-
tive to many designers. For example, John Galliano told me that he saw the �Gothic girl’ as �edgy and cool, vampy and mysterious,’ while the most recent Rodarte collec-
tion was inspired by Japanese horror films.” - Dr. Valerie Steele curator of Gothic: Dark Glamour
The exhibit currently on display at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technol-
ogy (FIT) “Gothic: Dark Glamour” focuses heavily on the visual ideals of the 18th century Gothic Romanticism, which still live today both in couture fashion and sub-
versive street fashion. Most of the items and garments on display focused on modern couture’s obsession with the macabre and gloomy rebellious decay that represents gothic styling.
by Rachel Covert and Kirsten Fiebelkorn
more picks by our fashion editor Meagan Breen and makeup artist Rachel Mazurek
see pages 29 and 50 for photos featuring the makeup stylings of Rachel Mazurek
Jet Set Waterproof Eye Liner - Smashbox
recommended by Rachel Mazurek
available at www.smashbox.com . $22
A gel-based waterproof eyeliner available in 4 colors from warm bronze to true black. Applies smooth and evenly with a brush and provides extremely long lasting water-
proof coverage that does not drift or migrate during the shoot or your night out. I would recommend applying with an angled eyeliner brush which will allow you to create a variety of lines and shapes. It has a versatile look that can mimic pencil or liquid depending on how you apply it. Leave the lid on tight and don’t leave it on your brush too long as the quick drying liner sets rapidly. The midnight black is an essential in my kit. Naked Cosmetics
recommended by Rachel Mazurek
available at select salons and industrycosmetics.com . $50 for six colors
Naked cosmetics is an innovative makeup system with a variety of applications. The very pigmented mica mineral makeup mixes with the available bases to become wa-
terproof eye shadows, lip colors, nail polishes, and more. They have 16 different color collections available with six colors per collection. Collections range from classic earth tones, to pastels, to a number of bright, fun, and funky colors. I some-
times like to apply over other colors to add subtle tints and tones. These are also a great start to mixing some custom and hard to find colors. HiP Duos - L’Oreal
recommended by Rachel Mazurek
available at www.lorealparisusa.com . $7
Don’t be scared of color. L’Oreal has come out with a collection of eye shadow duos that do the coordination for you. These high intensity pigments come in a variety of combinations which can be applied and blended in many interesting ways. At this price you don’t have to feel bad about purchasing a few to play and experiment with in order to find some colors that work for you. These will definitely let you have some fun with makeup again. With them you to create a variety of both everyday go-to looks and more exciting looks for nights at the club. Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover Pads - Almay
recommended by Meagan Breen
available at Target and most drugstores . www.almay.com . $5
This product can be used daily on eyelids and lips to completely remove all types of makeup; even waterproof mascara and eyeliner. I use this product everyday because it’s quick, easy, and doesn’t burn my sensitive skin. The only negative about these pads is their size. I have to use up to four pads to completely remove all eye makeup from both eyes.
Rice Paper - Palladio
recommended by Meagan Breen
available at www.palladiobeauty.com . $4
I love rice paper! It’s an oil-absorbing blotting paper. A makeup artist friend turned me onto them. Use before applying foundation or use instead of pressed powder to get rid of the shine. This product is great for a man or women’s shiny skin and the compact packaging is convenient for a purse or pocket. The only negative is the rice powder does come off the paper and can flake onto your face or clothing.
There were perhaps 12 high-end designers represented among the 70 or so ensembles on display. These are the Gods of Dark Fashion: Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, Alexander McQueen and Ann Demeule-
meester. Although there were others, to me these were the designers who had the most literal and outrageous takes on goth couture. You could also find, the 18th century mourning widows in their black lace; heavy bustles and thick silks, the basis for gothic fashion; and an emphasis on decay and disenchantment. FIT displays the garments in 7 sections: Cabinet of Curiosities, Night, Strange Beau-
ty, Batcave, Mourning, Cemetery, Haunted Palace, and Ruined Castle. Interestingly, each section isn’t a place but rather an idea that invokes a strong physical response. Although most of the sections blended together, one section the Batcave, stood apart from the rest. The Cabinet of Curiosities is one of the first sections in the exhibit. This collection of objects emphasizes the importance of symbolism. Skulls, bats, and Victorian mourn-
ing jewelry are presented as mainstays of gothic culture, both historically and today. They represent the theme of gloom and death in the gothic mindset.
Night focused on the color black. Since the 15th century, black has been associated with wealth and aristocracy. In the Victorian era, it became a symbol of mourning. Today, black symbolizes the somber mood associated with death and formality, both mourning and aristocracy. Also represented in this section is the prim �Gothic Lolita’ style which features girlish empire dresses in varying states of decay and disarray. When the goth style was introduced into Japan, it blossomed into an active street culture. Kazuko Ogawa’s short dress is a prime example of this dark interpretation of the Lolita. Night focused on how the color black displayed the different aspects of AUXILIARY december 2008
beauty picks
goth, from mysterious, to erotic, to dangerous and deathly.
Batcave was the famous goth club located in London with a sister club located in New York City. This section focused on street fashion and less on couture. Displayed with two-way mirrors, the items on display demonstrated the transformation from punk of the 1970s to the dark, glamorous, and fetish influenced styles that are popular today. Lip Service, Plastik Wrap and Transmuter took their bows as popular brands identified with the cybergoth side of this fashion. The mirrors were lit so that you could only see the exhibit for 90 seconds at a time, symbolic of the dark and mysteri-
ous under-culture of today’s goth scene. Mourning is probably the most common association with gothic culture. It was man-
dated during Victorian era to wear head-to-toe black in order to honor the dead. Wid-
ows were especially committed to the guise. Although these items of clothing were to be plain and simple, they were often elaborate, greatly influencing the Gods of Dark Fashion. Bustles, trains, veils, and ruffles were prominent detailing, emphasiz-
ing the dark romance often associated with death and decay. Cemetery is related to mourning, both focusing on death. However a cemetery plays on the claustrophobic idea of being surrounded by a jagged fence. This section also represented the bondage of corsets, a strong aspect of gothic culture, both in high and mainstream fashion.
The Haunted Palace section touches upon the horror and psychological component of goth. According to the exhibit, this section was influenced by Eager Allen Poe. It related to Ruined Castle and the superstitions of medieval culture. Crosses become a prominent symbol in this section. Building ruins, creating the effect of a dismantled church, surround the pieces on display. It created a mysterious and gloomy setting, invoking thoughts of the supernatural.
FIT’s exhibit focused on the couture aspect of a concept that is often associated with street culture. Although the goth culture has never been a mainstream style, it has survived and transformed throughout decades of changing trends. Curator Valerie Steele’s take on the concept of gothic culture was thematically broad and visually dense. Her interesting choice of displays and lighting lent to a physical experience, rather than a visual interpretation. This exhibit is yet another example of the exten-
sive collection of fashion objects at FIT, and Steele’s ability to personify an idea through clothing. The exhibit is running from September 5, 2008 through February 21, 2009, in New York City, free, and open to the public. If you’re in the area, go have a look.
gothi c : dark gl amour @ FIT Museum
18 asi an ci nema pri mer
There is a whole world of cinema out there beyond the Hollywood hills, movies that you have not conceived of if you grew up on a steady diet of blockbuster studio releases. But a growing trend in the last few years has seen major studios remaking and releasing asian films for the domestic market. The real question is why see the watered down wal-mart friendly versions of some of these great stories when you you can easily put in the effort to read a few subtitles and see the originals in all their glory. These are the movies that will bridge the gap and ease you into east asian cinema before you start into the more obscure or visceral titles. All of these are great films in their own right and compose a sort of much watch list to help you figure out what genres and eras you enjoy.
Seven Samurai . Akira Kurosawa. 1954 . Japan
Akira Kurosawa is without a doubt The Man, Seven Samurai is the most widely recognized film to come out of japan and is an integral piece of filmmaking history. It is also a great film to start with before exploring the rest of Kurosawa’s work. The story of an aging samurai who recruits a team of six other warriors to help defend a farming village has become a popular motif in cinema, and was even the inspiration for the 60’s western The Magnificent Seven.
if you like this check out: Rashomon, Miamoto Musashi, The Hidden Fortress
Hard Boiled . John Woo . 1992 . Hong Kong
Both John Woo and and Chow Yun Fat went on to become common names and faces in the American film scene in the mid nineties, and it was largely in part to this film and the duo’s 1989 film The Killer becoming cult hits with western audiences. Hard Boiled still remains the more accessible of the two and a great introduction to the sim-
ple but elegant style of Woo’s directing. Chow Yun Fat’s character, the awesomely named officer tequila, performs in this bullet ballet with the grace of a dancer while still bringing plenty of humor and style to the role. Hard Boiled still remains one of the best made and memorable entries in the Hong Kong action genre.
if you like this check out: The Killer, A Better Tomorrow, City on Fire
Lone Wolf and Cub: Sword of Vengeance . Kenji Misumi . 1972 . Japan
One in a series of Lone Wolf and Cub films (also known as the Baby Cart series), sword of vengeance sets the tone for the ultra violent ultra bloody samurai revenge flicks to follow. The first installment follows swordsman Ogami Itto, as he pushes his infant son Daigoro in a heavily armed baby carriage, in a search for revenge against the rival clan that killed his wife and servants. The films are addictive and each in-
stallment adds bigger battles, more blood, and more creative fight scenes. if you like this check out: Lady Snowblood, Kill!, Zatoichi
Curse of the Golden Flower . Yimou Zhang . 2006 . China
Taking the directorial and artistic vision that popularized his previous film Hero among western audiences to new heights, Yimou Zhang creates a compelling story in which every location and choice of color is part of the story being told. In addition to the numerous and impressive action scenes there are powerfully performed mo-
ments of sadness, betrayal, and love in this film. Creating a much deeper overall plot and richer visual experience than the already impressive Hero. Zhang’s other films including The House of Flying Daggers and Raise the Red Lantern are also must sees if you enjoy this film. if you like this check out: Hero, Storm Riders, Seven Swords
by Luke Copping
Twilight
Stephanie Meyer has resurrected the vampire genre with her novel Twilight, not since Louis and Lestat have I been so drawn to the undead. Meyer has crafted a vampire romance capable of reaching the masses and holding their interest. Bella Swan and Edward Cullen are not your average teenage couple, Bella is accident prone and Edward is torn between his urges to kill Bella or save her. Oddly enough Bella doesn’t care; she would rather die than be without Edward. Edward is not the only vampire living in Forks; he is part of a family of vampires who live an alternative lifestyle. When another vampire becomes determined to taste Bella’s blood, it is up to Edward and the other Cullens to save her.
Edward Cullen fits the classic image of a vampire, he is desirable and mysterious. His character is one that the ladies are going to fall in love with and I must admit I found myself daydreaming about the perfect Edward Cullen. Bella is also a very lik-
able character; she truly is just a normal everyday girl. She isn’t the most beautiful or the most popular, so I think many girls can relate to her as they read the story. The action in the story is wonderfully intertwined with the romance, which makes this novel enjoyable for both genders. Meyer does an excellent job of developing the characters and the plot to the point you almost think this could really happen. I also enjoyed her spin on the vampire story, a lot of the basics are there, but she develops a new explanation as to why vampires cannot go in the sun (their skin sparkles). Meyer’s writing is strong; her use of dialogue really helps with the flow of the story. She actually made me feel like I was back in high school with Bella and Edward. by Ashley Schimenti and Jennifer Link
Ong-Bak . Prachya Pinkaew . 2003 . Thailand
Ong-Bak belongs to a new breed of asian action cinema, and is a great example of the emerging film industry coming out of Thailand which is really starting to gain attention and following among western viewers. Starring Tony Jaa, a stunt man who takes the Jackie Chan school of stunts to new levels. Jaa uses no wires or CG in his stunt work, and his choreography makes use of traditional Thai martial arts that are a breath of fresh air in a somewhat repetitive martial arts genre. The fight and chase scenes in Ong-Bak are intense to a point that you will often find yourself wincing at the brutal impacts and strikes delivered in creative ways. The film also has a great overall story and a little bit of effective comedy thrown in by Petchtai Wongkamlao, who is a great comic foil to the raw physicality of Jaa.
if you like this check out: The Protector, Fearless, Once upon a time in China, Fists of Fury
The Eye . Oxide Pang Chun . 2002 . Singapore
While many got their first taste of asian horror from Hideo Nakata’s Ringu or its well made American remake The Ring, The Eye is in many ways a much better entry point into asian horror cinema. This is mainly due to the pacing of the film which may be more akin to western films. The film follows the story of a young blind woman who receives a corneal transplant that allows her to see the spirits that are all around her. Containing some extremely intense and well shot sequences (the elevator scene will freak you out), The Eye is a film that relies more on suspense and subtle terror rather than piling on the gore and shocks, which you tend to find a lot of in other films in the genre. if you like this check out: Whispering Corridors, Acacia, Marebito
Ran . Akira Kurosawa . 1985 . Japan
In many well respected opinions, Ran is Kurosawa’s masterpiece, and they might be right. This re-imagining of Shakespeare’s King Lear, blends in elements of Japanese samurai folk lore to tell the tale of a kingdom torn apart by the machinations of the rulers three sons as they vie for control of his territories. Filmed in a distinctive style, using very long shots to show the meticulously constructed sets and battle scenes, Ran is so grand in scale that it seems almost overwhelming. But Kurosawa keeps control over his large cast and guides them through a truly impressive production. if you like this check out: Kagemusha, Red Beard, Ikiru
Oldboy . Chan-Wook Park . 2003 . South Korea
Oldboy is the second part of Park’s loosely connected revenge trilogy, which also includes Sympathy for Mr. Vengeance and Sympathy for Lady Vengeance. It follows the tail of Oh Dea-Su, a man who is locked in single room for fifteen years with no knowledge of why he has been imprisoned. Upon his release from his captivity, he sets out on a quest for vengeance against his captors and sets of a chain of individu-
als seeking revenge that culminates in a shocking finale as the nature of his impris-
onment is revealed. The amazing cinematography and well thought out production work, in conjunction with an original and thought provoking story, makes for some truly unforgettable twists and images. if you like this check out: In The Mood For Love, 3 Iron, Shark Skin Man and Peach Hip Girl
Tetsuo: The Iron Man . Shinya Tsukomoto . 1989 . Japan
Tsukomoto is the godfather of asian extreme cinema, and Tetsuo: The Iron Man is his original masterpiece. It is a disjointed black and white film full of shocking and ex-
perimental images. The jarring industrial soundtrack and plot concerning the fusion of flesh and technology in a man’s body, create an atmosphere that is both nightmar-
ish and completely enticing all at once. Tetsuo is more of an experience than a film and is difficult to describe with words alone. See it.
if you like this check out: Ichi The Killer, Stacy, Visitor Q, Tokyo Fist
december 2008 AUXILIARY21
I also enjoyed her descriptions, she brought the small town of Forks to life, which is actually a real town in Washington and it does have the reputation of hav-
ing the most rainfall. It’s very apparent that Meyer did her re-
search for the novel and in turn helped bring this story to life.
Once you have read the book, I would head to the theater to see the much anticipated Twi-
light movie. It was released in theaters on November 21, 2008. There has been much specula-
tion about the movie and if it is able to live up to the book. The movie stars Robert Pattinson as Edward and Kristen Stewart as Bella. if you like the Vampires
you might like...
if you like the Lovestory
you might like...
if you like the Vampire Lovestory
you might like...
the Sookie Stackhouse series - by Charlaine Harris
The Sookie Stackhouse series follows the life of a young waitress (Sookie) in Bon Temps, Louisiana. Vampires have just revealed their existence to the rest of the world and are struggling with being accepted. Sookie falls in love with a vampire named Bill Compton, due to their relationship Sookie is thrown into a world she just found out existed. Sookie is not all she seems either, she is able to hear people’s thoughts and due to this it has created a lot of problems for her. She is seen as an outcast in her small town. Throughout the series Sookie is introduced to werewolves, witches, faeries, and shape-shifters. The introduction of the new species helps keep the storylines fresh and ever-changing. Sookie also enjoys the company of the dif-
ferent beings, because for some reason she cannot hear their thoughts, which gives her some much needed peace and quiet. The first book in the series is Dead Until Dark. Harris’s novels have also been used to create a television show called True Blood which is on HBO.
the Vampire Hunter D series - by Hideyuki Kikuchi
The Vampire Hunter D series of novels has been published in English (originally in Japanese) by DH Press (prose division of Dark Horse Comics) and I would recom-
mend them to anyone who enjoys books, films, etc. about vampires. D is a half vam-
pire half human vampire hunter in a futuristic world where vampires came into power and then crashed the whole world into a new dark age. One reason I enjoyed Twilight was because I thought it was rather unique for a vampire story. The interpretation of vampires in the Twilight series and the background stories I found to be very interest-
ing and I the felt same about the Vampire Hunter D novels. the Paradise Kiss series - by Ai Yazawa
Paradise Kiss is both a manga and anime. I would recommend the anime over the manga if you are not a fan of this sort of thing, because the anime is more accessible. Paradise Kiss is about a group of high school fashion students preparing for their graduation fashion show. The two main characters Yukari (also known as “Caro-
line”) and George are similar in personality to Bella and Edward. But even more so, the dynamic of the lovestory in Twilight is extremely similar to the dynamic between Caroline and George. And if you developed a little crush on Edward, you’ll defiantly develop a little animated character crush on George.
Vampire Mix Tape
She Wants Revenge - Tear You Apart
Makes a good soundtrack if you want to amp the book out of the PG-13 realm. When the chorus is taken literally, it might very accurately describe how Edward may have felt when he first meets Bella, and when taken perhaps more how it was intended, how Bella felt toward Edward. Plus it has that lovely teenage romance tone to it.
Concrete Blonde - Bloodletting (the Vampire Song)
The song is called the Vampire Song, that should be enough. Gets you in the vampire mood. Although Northwestern US makes a great unexpected setting for a vampire story, this song has a more Anne Rice location.
Bauhaus - Bela Lugosi’s Dead
Ah yes, Bela Lugosi, the original vampire. The vampire loves human story is not so new, let’s not forget Dracula and Mina. And of coarse Mr. Lugosi was the first thing that popped into my head read when I first read the name Bella Swan.
The Sisters of Mercy - Cry Little Sister
The classic vampire soundtrack song, the theme song to The Lost Boys did a better job accompanying it’s movie than the odd music in the Twilight movie. I would strongly recommend Twilight, you may be intimidated by the size of the book, but once you start reading, you won’t be able to put it down. I was so drawn to the book; I completed it in a day. Twilight leaves you wanting more and luckily the saga continues in the next book New Moon.
This Film is Not Yet Rated
Directed By: Kirby Dick
This Film is Not Yet Rated is a scathing and humorous investigation of the Motion Picture Association of America, the group responsible for rating and reviewing films released in the US theatre system. Kirby Dick’s documentary goes so deep into the MPAA system as to submit his own film about the MPAA to them for rating and review by their secretive review board. Report on the hypocrisy and disingenuous motives of this organization leads Dick to hire a private detective to track down the identities of the MPAA review and appeals boards, persons whose identities are kept secret supposedly to prevent outside influence from affecting their opinions about the films they review, despite the fact, as the film shows, that these same reviewers are in constant contact with the film studios who make the movies they review. Dick’s style is a good blend of entertaining filler mixed with actual investigation and sincere documentary filmmaking. There are however moments that call some accuracy into question, namely the comically condescending tone of voice in the recreations of phone conversations with two MPAA officials who refused to let their real recordings be used. The high point of the film is when Dick actually submits his film about the MPAA to them for review and the ensuing appeals process involved. This segment of the film, minus the two aforementioned recreations was the most illuminating segment in regards to the actual workings of the organization. The film is an informative curiosity, a well made documentary on a very specific part of the American film industry, and it is worth the watch if the subject interests you. Movie Reviews
Control
Directed by: Anton Corbijin
The pacing of this film is immediately off putting, it starts out slow and somewhat awkward, but as the various elements of this film come together to tell the story of the final days of Ian Curtis’s life they coalesce into a steady driving rhythm, much like his music. The movie’s bleak, black and white images are the perfect visual representa-
tion of the music of the band Joy Division. The downbeat, low points of the film are punctuated with frenetic musical interludes, performed live by the actors, who all practiced together as a band for their roles. Control is a better than average rock bio pic, but it does suffer from some of the pitfalls of the genre. There are also moments of the film where you notice Corbijin slipping back into his experiences as a music video director, sequences which seem slightly out of place from the rest of the film. The main problem with films in this genre is not with the director or the actors, but with us as viewers. You already know what is coming and how the film will end; and as the final act approaches you start to over-anticipate that moment. As a Joy Division fan myself I enjoyed the film, and especially Sam Riley’s performance of a tired and disconnected Curtis, but I wonder how my opinion would change were I to watch this film as someone totally unfamiliar with the band.
by Luke Copping
The Fall
Directed by: Tarsem Singh
Tarsem Singh’s The Fall, his latest feature film since 2000’s The Cell, is immediately appreciated because of its stunning cinematography and visuals. From the gorgeous black and white opening, to the sombre images of a 1920’s hospital, the movie is rife with gorgeous imagery. But what really defines the film are the fantasy sequences of the story within the frame narrative. Landscapes (the film was shot in 18 different countries) and set pieces of breathtaking quality combined with top notch composi-
tion and costume design, define this as a film in which the images are a key element in moving the story along. Bouncing back and forth between the characters true selves in a 1920’s California hospital and their fantastic counterparts in the aforementioned fictional tale told by one of the patients, The Fall is a study in both the nature and manipulative power of storytelling and the idea that one persons telling of a story may be radically altered by another’s interpretation of it. However the last act of the film does feel a little rushed as if racing to give the audience closure in a film already running nearly two hours. A better balance could have been stuck between fitting as many of the great visual se-
quences in and developing the narrative more. Overall the film is a beautiful example of what an imaginative and detail oriented film maker and story teller can create. my life as a goth girl
Date: December 1st, 2008
Entry: the “Black Lipstick Wearing Hippie” myth
Dear Diary,
Allow me to tell you a little story…
The tale begins thousands of years ago, when dinosaurs ruled the mighty Earth and I was 18. Yours truly was gracing my local Goth dive with my usual sweet and charm-
ing presence. A strange girl sashayed past me rockin’ something that screamed “Wal-
mart discount lingerie rack”. An ensemble surely worthy of a day shift stripper for a low low price of $6.99. It is my duty as a catty Goth girl to be the judge, jury, and executioner of any fashion travesty of this magnitude. After all, what just had ap-
peared in front of my eyes wasn’t exactly an outfit, more like a head on multi train collision. As soon as the phrase “What the hell is that?” (Okay, I’m sure I used much harsher language) left my mouth, an ugly troll like creature appeared by side out of nowhere ready to defend the honor of this anonymous yet poorly dressed maiden. Think of a short, fat, and over 40 love child of Captain Crunch and Gimli the dwarf from Lord of the Rings. And don’t forget the ever glamorous skullet. He attacked me for being “so judgmental” and informed me that people embrace the Goth scene to “get away from people like me”.
I guess dressing in black, having big shoes, and bigger hair automatically gives us the innate ability to be ever so tolerant and accepting of everyone around us.
Okay got it. Oh and in case you didn’t know mermaids, unicorns, and leprechauns are fully integrated into modern society too. By the way, I’ve got a bridge to sell you at an attractive price, interested by any chance?
I don’t know if the fugly man gnome and I are part of the same Goth scene, but in the Goth scene I’m a part of, going out dressed to the nines and knowing that you and your friends will be the best outfitted girls at the bar is half the fun. The other half is laughing at the girls with neon green loose kanakelon falls mounted to mousy brown hair.
Fact: If you express yourself by basing your makeup on WWF wrestlers, I have the right to laugh at you.
Imagine how boring a night would be if you couldn’t elbow your friends and giggle in agreement everytime some hot mess that obviously didn’t look in the mirror prior to leaving their house walked by. Political correctness is a necessary evil in the of-
fice where if you hurt someone’s feelings your sweet ass is in danger of getting 86ed. What would be the PC term for those who are badly dressed anyway? The attrac-
tively challenged? Stylishly disadvantaged? Ha ha ha… is there a Gothic sensitivity training camp I’ll be sent off to for Elitist Aversion Therapy? They’d pry my eyes open so I’d be forced to look at club shots of kids in Tripp pants, ICP shirts, spiked collars, and Kool Aid dyed hair whilst listening to Covenant’s “Dead Stars”. At the end I’d puke anytime the song would come on (and we all know that happens quite a bit) or I’d get the urge to point out someone’s fatal fashion flaws. I’m sure some of you would love that. ;)
This all goes back to that tired old eternally repetitive question of “What is Goth?”. Some of us are drawn to the darker aesthetic because they feel that Goth as a whole is a subculture shunned by the mainstream and there is strength in numbers when being one of the so called misfits. Many others are just attracted to the elegance of by Vanity Kills
days past or the fantasy of the Hi Tech future that lies ahead. The majesty and refined elegance of Victorian mourning garb. Or the sleekness, symmetry, and cold android like grace of a well put together cybergoth get up. Both styles project an air of elit-
ism. If you can pull it off you’re doomed to people deeming you unapproachable. People will either hate you because they’re jealous or kiss your ass. You can’t really avoid it and it comes with the territory.
Back when I was 18, my Gothness had no punk undertones. It was not a political statement. It wasn’t to show the world that I am open minded and that I reject the preps, cheerleaders, and thugs that populated my high school. I didn’t cast aside the mainstream because I was tired of the mall worshipping consumer mentality of the American teenager and wore black outfits in protest. Not even close. I just thought that their attire and more importantly music sucked. I wanted to cover myself in a wardrobe fit for a queen (I was all about the velvet and lace in high school) from head to toe. I liked my aural stimuli dark and romantic or angry and synthesized. Revolt-
ing against anything never entered the equation. Thus calling out people on their latest Hot Topic travesties does NOT make me hypocrite. It just makes me GOTH. Just makes me female. We’re not at all different from our cheerleader friends. Our outfits are just 10x cuter.
Perhaps the vertically challenged homely hobgoblin that deemed himself so morally superior to me and decided to lecture me on the folly and error of my gossiping ways would’ve been better off joining a hippie commune where everyone is special in their own way. Acid and saggy boobed sky clad women dancing for everyone!
I mean if black lipstick really held the mystical powers of open mindness, erased all prejudicial thoughts, and gave everyone the urge to hold hands and sing kumbaya, wouldn’t Manic Panic become a government agency? Wouldn’t all KKK members be captured and forced to wear Robert Smith’s tousled hair likeness on their chests and voila no more cross burnings. Black Panthers would suddenly realize how point-
less it is to hate whitey upon being given vampire capes. The Taliban would no longer throw acid on Afghan schoolgirls for committing the crime of wanting to be a woman with an education after being mandatorily tattooed with the face of Peter Murphy on their right butt cheek.
I guess because some jocks make fun of you, you’re automatically supposed to be kind to others. Yeah right. In reality most people can’t wait to take it out on someone else and make them pay their due. A PVC dress does not change human nature.
If one is looking for a safe haven from the criticism and cruelty of the world, a scene where one faces the risk of social ridicule for being unable to properly recite Skinny Puppy’s complete discography in 30 seconds or less, the Goth/Industrial collective might not be the place for them. The New Age movement might be more what you’re looking for. They strongly embrace the self deluding “everyone is an unique snowflake” mentality. The rest of us with self esteem strong enough to handle the occasional naysayer, just talk smack back about the offender to anyone and everyone within ear shot. Then move on. If your ego is completely shattered by someone hat-
ing your new foam hair, then perhaps take the booze money you were spending at the bar and visit a therapist and nurse your wounded psyche back to health.
It’s just a club. It’s just a bad outfit choice. It’s just someone else’s opinion. For goodness sake... it’s just GOTH. ;)
<3
Vanity Kills
AUXILIARY december 2008 december 2008 AUXILIARY
Documentary Reviews
by Luke Copping
22 23 some garland or berries either sewn or glued onto the fabric randomly or at the sew-line (you may end up with sew-lines because most fabric doesn’t come in 6 foot sections). You can pick a garland, berry, or what-have-you decoration to match that soap dispenser you liked so much! Add an inexpensive plastic liner and you are all set! Making your own shower curtain is especially recommended for anyone with tall ceilings. The higher the print goes, the more dramatic the result. The best part is that you can take it down at the end of the season and reuse it next year. After not seeing it for 11 months, it will seem new to you again too! Many modern homes do not have formal dining rooms any more, but I live in an older home and have one. I like to use the dining room for some of the less-than-functional decorations. Things that if put in the kitchen would be in your way, because you need to be able to use that space. The dining room is the perfect place for these items. Large soldier nutcrackers, elaborate center pieces, tablecloths, candles, etc. I also like to change out the curtains from the normal over-length formal drapery, to the red velvet ones for the season. Ribbon is another favorite of mine. Velvet ribbon around the chandelier makes it more festive and just gives the room a little change from the norm. You can also use ribbon to tie back the curtains, or when in doubt, just tie bows on everything. Wire ribbon is a good choice; it will keep the bows looking fresh all season long. Keep the spools, just roll the ribbon up in January and put it away for next year. Add a fancy tablecloth and a few chair covers, and your room is almost set. I do recommend a darker tablecloth if you actually eat at your table. The light ones tend to stain, and there is no point in buying a nice tablecloth if gets stained and you can’t use it next year.
Kitchens, in my opinion, are by far the hardest rooms to decorate. They need to be functional year �round, as the kitchen is in constant use. Fabrics are out because of the hazard they’ll create when cooking, and they’ll get stinky and dirty anyways with all the baking. But, as kitchens tend to be where most of one’s time in the home is spent, it is necessary to give it some decoration. Bells on the cupboard doors, a seasonal spoon set on the stovetop, dish towels, and some sort of festive center piece should not be too invasive. Candy is always welcome, and if you set all that left over Halloween candy in a seasonal bowl, you might just make it through to the New Year. I like to put a festive area rug (with pad) at the sink or counter because I usually end up spending more than the normal amount of time standing there making goodies for the holidays. It doesn’t just look nice, but my feet appreciate it too.
The living room is where my tree goes, and for the most part the tree IS the decoration for the room. I like a burgundy and silver color theme for the tree. Much velvet is used; it’s dark and beautiful. I use a plethora of bows on the tree mixed with the two different colored ball ornaments (silver ones will reflect light) and lights. The stocking holders are silver and as much as I like everything to match there is some nostalgia about hanging up my childhood stocking every year. Candles and fragrance and string lights are a huge part of my decorating too. LED lights cost next to nothing to leave on constantly, but I still use a timer on all string lights. There is a nice ambiance, with the lights on the tree paired with candles, since the sun goes down at 5:30. Tuck your lights and ribbon deep inside the tree for interest and depth. Never forget the mistletoe, it’s festive and interactive. It’s always nice to come home to a kiss, even if that kiss is from your pet rat. (continued on page 28)
have yourself a gothic little xmas
I must preface this by saying that the term “Christmas” is a catch all for the time of year that begins the day after thanksgiving and extends through the first week of January. It is just a generic term for a season, cultural and commercial. Nothing more, nothing less. Most people don’t think of Christmas as being “alternative”. Alt or not, it’s still a festive time of year, with plenty of joy (not goth) and splendor (possibly goth). One can argue how goth and religion have ties to each other throughout history, but I am here to discuss the most fun part of the holiday season, the decorating. And when I decorate it’s darker, a more “gothic” approach. I suppose all the lame positive feel-
ings associated with Christmas can be considered conformist, but who doesn’t want to feel good (emos)? Who wouldn’t want to be warm and cozy in your own home, decorated for the holidays, sipping on Irish cream, and gorging on cookies? That sounds to me like the most wonderful time of the year.
I like themes. I like to theme a room, particularly this season. I love dark red vel-
vets and golds together. Recently, purple has made its way to the Christmas colors palette; paired with silver and/or black it’s dark and festive. Decorating like this can be expensive, but I find that adding a few new things each year can make it not only more affordable, but keep it new and fresh.
I like to start with the bathroom. Bathrooms are small rooms (normally) so they are inexpensive to decorate and since we do spend quite a bit of time in our bathrooms it’s nice to change it up for the season. Shower curtains are an easy way to start and they make a big difference as they take up so much vertical space (about 6x6). Once you have your curtain picked out, a matching soap dispenser (refilled with seasonal scented soap), hand towel, and bath mat almost complete the room! If you can’t find a curtain you like, get a 6x6 piece of fabric (hemmed) and a grommet punch, and you have yourself a one-of-a-kind shower curtain. Right after Halloween is a good time to peruse the clearance rack at your local fabric store. If you find something you like, it can be spruced up for the Christmas season with minimal effort, and for (as cheap as) one dollar a yard! For example, a black vinyl piece of fabric can be altered with by Teresa
26
In addition, I have a “center piece” in every room. In the dining room it is on the table, in the living room it is on the coffee table, in the kitchen it is on the island, and in the bathroom it is on the cabinet or back of the toilet. For the “center piece” in the bathroom I like candles, they are warm and fragrant. Usually in the kitchen it is a large bowl or plate of candy/treats. For the living room, I fill up a glass pot or bowl with old tree ornaments that are not used on the tree anymore, and place a candle on top. In the dining room, I often use flowers mixed with a pillar, round candles, and whatever else didn’t seem to find a home as the decorations were going out. Yes, I like the candles. The dif-
ferent heights and shapes of the candles mixed with other items adds interest to an arrangement. dear chrissie
Hello everyone!
I’m sure you are all familiar with the “Dear Abby” column. Well this is “Dear Chrissie”, a similar column for those of you with questions about like and love, relationship beginnings and endings; all those things that occupy so much of our lives and thoughts. I know I’ve had my share of all that I just mentioned, some fortunately or unfortunately more than others, and I hope to share my wisdom, or at least experience, with all of you.
So please write me with your questions regarding relationships and the like. Send me your lovelorn letters or just your simple ponderings. Don’t be too em-
barrassed to write about anything you’d like, I’ll keep everything confidential and change the names.
I look forward to hearing from you and helping you out with your questions! Until then, this is Dear Chrissie =)
email : dearchrissie@auxiliarymagazine.com
the Pin Up
Auxiliary’s playful take on the sexy centerfold pin up. This month we bring you the lovely Dessa Fell in Ego Assassin Latex! So flip the page, cut out, and tac on your wall! Lastly, gifts wrapped early and placed under the tree are the perfect finish to the holiday decorating. Again, with the dark ribbons and matching paper; a well-wrapped present is the perfect finishing touch to any holiday tree! Done right, and the receiver will not want to open it!
It may not be what Halloween is to the average goth, but Christmas gives us plenty of opportunity to express ourselves through decoration, and it doesn’t have to all be Santas and candy canes. Do what you like, and you may be surprised at how it can all come together.
AUXILIARY december 2008 december 2008 AUXILIARY
Photographer : Jenni fer Li nk
Makeup Arti st : Rachel Mazurek
Hai r Styl i st : Eri n Moser
Model : Dessa Fel l
outfit by Ego Assassin : latex seasonal Microplunge top in snowflakes print, latex Silhouette underbust corset, and latex seasonal Pencil skirt in snowflakes print
Dessa Fell
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AUXILIARY december 2008 december 2008 AUXILIARY
latex outfit by Ego Assassin
Dessa Fell
AUXILIARY december 2008
outfit by Ego Assassin : latex seasonal Microplunge top in snowflakes print, latex Silhouette underbust corset, and latex seasonal Pencil skirt in snowflakes print
MUSIC REVIEWS : MASSIV IN MENSCH
reviewed by : Aaron Andrews
genre : Electronic/EBM
content : A batch of well composed tracks that frankly surprised me. I’ve heard the bands name for long enough now and based on this album its time for me to go back and see what I’ve missed before now. The music is solid and imaginative, I never felt like I was listening to the same track over and over. I didn’t get bored enough on the second or third listen to skip any track. Influences from acid house, techno, trance, and harsh EBM all mix to keep my interest. There’s a good variety of style within the album, some trance inspired (“Crystal”), some laid back (“Alone”) and some dance floor pounders (“Never Trust the Outline” and “Powerful”). Lyrics are in both Ger-
man and English depending on the song. Due to my not speaking German I can only comment on the English writing, I found the lyrics to be good, but not exceptional. Vocal performances are solid and everyone who contributes adds to the songs in a positive way.
recommended tracks : Supermassive Gravity (which features Mind.In.A.Box), Pink Dream, Hou Je Bek Vuile Teff, Powerful, As I Wake by Your Side
if you like you might like : Mind.In.A.Box, Rotersand, Emperion, Scooter
grade : B- (music : B . lyrics : B- . recording quality : B)
Massiv In Mensch - Meanwhile Back In the Jungle
released by Artoffact on 18 November 2008
data : 5th studio album . 14 tracks . 54:42 run time . www.massiv-in-mensch.de
reviewed by : Mike Kieffer
genre : EBM/Techno/Industrial
packaging : Not having the actual CD case and insert and only having the audio files, I can only comment on the cover art. It is striking, bright pink and black with a hyp-
notic pattern on it. Simple design but I would say it definitely stands out and screams LOOK AT ME! Which I feel is fitting for Massiv In Mensch.
content : Massiv in Mensch is back and banging out another classic Massiv In Mensch album. This time it’s a little different, it only takes to the second track to notice this. On this album, they teamed up with Mind.in.a.Box on the track “Supermassive Grav-
ity”, and lets just say this paring should do a full-length album together because it would be just incredible. I heard this track about 10 months ago on a compilation CD and instantly fell in love with it. I recommend finding the other versions of this track because the version on this album is not the best one that I have heard. Moving on, the next group of tracks are the thumping bass with humorous lyrics, well the ones you understand (the lyrics are half German and half English), that you have come to expect. The track “Alone” switches it up a bit and shows some range with a slower more emotional feel to it. This also provides a nice break in the album from the non-stop club smashers. Near the end of the album you find some almost purely instrumental tracks, which round out the album nicely. If I were DJing I would have a hard time picking one track to play, in fact I would play all the tracks but maybe the intro track... although I have done some weird things while I was DJing before. Overall this album is unmistakably Massiv in Mensch. Solid from start to finish, this could be one of their best albums. If you liked their other albums you will definitely like this one, unless you went deft, then perhaps you wouldn’t like it at all.
recommended tracks : Supermassive Gravity, Hou je bek vuile teef, Alone
grade : A- (music : B . lyrics : B . recording quality : A)
reviewed by : DJ ArcaTek
content: EBM club goers anticipate what kind of style Massiv In Mensch will do next. What direction? What sound? A band that was never predictable had us waiting and won-
dering when their latest release will be ready for completion. Well the wait is over as “Meanwhile Back in the Jungle” has been released by the German duo. Banging out hard driving beats along with German vocals and hard synths, Massiv in Mensch is the cure for ailing dancefloors everywhere. When DJs like myself obtain new music our first and natural instinct is to thumb through to the possible club hits. Well I am happy to say that I found some on here and I am confident that I found one with “Supermassive Gravity”. The song is beautifully mixed and mastered by Mind.in.a.Box and let’s just say this song delivers. It is equally blended with electro/industrial sinfulness that taps you on the back and when you turn around you get belted in the face with a hard driving catchy rhythmic exploding beat that when you’re done listening to it you instantly want to hear it again and again. Heads up to CD and mp3 players out there because you will be having your repeat buttons violated. Massiv in Mensch has a comical side to themselves too, people who already own any of their cds have already found that out. That is evident on tracks like “Hou Je Bek Vuile Teef” and “Pink Dream” as well as some life affirmation inspired works like “Powerful”. It certainly looks like they were fans of a certain 19th century philosopher from Germany wouldn’t you say? “Ikonoklast” and “Never Trust the Outline” journey us around the album through an electronic trip of what EBM is all about. I was pleased with this album and even though Massiv in Mensch are not at the top of the goth subculture’s food chain they should be in the same area code but lack of exposure in the clubs and the states have pushed this group back. Hopefully that will change and Massiv in Mensch could launch a US tour to put themselves out there. That’s what the big name groups in this scene have done and done well. People want to see groups that are played in their clubs, CDs, and iPods. Clubbers in the states want to experience those bands followed by good performances so don’t forget about the people in the US because it will only help the bands gain that upper escalante that is so desired by many bands but only attained by a few. If you don’t own any copies of Massiv in Mensch then do yourself a favor and go out and buy yourself a copy because this group should be in every goth, rivethead, raver or whatever’s CD collection and I suggest to start with “Meanwhile Back in the Jungle”. if you like you might like : Birmingham 6, Utah Saint, Dubok, L”ame Immortelle, The Azoic
grade : A- (music : A . lyrics : A- . recording quality : A-)
Welcome to our music section! With this section we wanted to bring you more than just our opinions. So we gathered together some awsome musicians, DJs, and music knowledgeable folks to give you their thoughts on new releases, that way you’ll have multiple perspectives, and hopefully a better guide to what’s out there.
december 2008 AUXILIARY
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birthday : Halloween, 1984
birthplace : Buffalo, NY
eye color : dark hazel
hair color : a boring brown that I dye black
turn-ons : intelligence, humility, good style, and well-done tattoos
turn-offs : ego, pretentiousness, and lying
favorite color : black
favorite food : Gaeng Dang (thai red curry and coconut milk soup with rice and veggies, mmm...)
favorite cocktail : gin and tonic
favorite club/place-to-go-out : Caaba, a thai restaurant in philly (I’m not a big club-goer)
favorite musical artist : It can vary anywhere from Fiona Apple to Eminem, Say Anything to Gogol Bordello, Manson to Britney Spears, I’m not kidding I listen to everything!
favorite movie : Closer
favorite tv show : There are three and only three, Law and Order: SVU, Sex and the City, and The West Wing.
favorite book : She’s Come Undone, by Wal-
ly Lamb (I’ve read it over 45 times)
why you model : It’s challenging, trying to be inventive with poses, expressions, and concepts, and always trying to improve what I do. And I get to dress up in amazing ward-
robe, outstanding shoes, and get my hair and makeup professionally done on a pretty regular basis, and there’s nothing I don’t like about that!
how you got into modeling : I actually want-
ed to be a Suicide Girl, but that desire quickly faded
one thing about yourself that is odd : I eat almost everything with chopsticks
what you’d like to say to our readers : A few things everyone should do in life, one learn the meanings to words you don’t know, two do something you think you shouldn’t, three fix something you know you did wrong, and four get enough sleep.
Dessa Fell
reviewed by : Aaron Andrews
genre : Electronic/EBM/Techno
packaging : A glob of high sheen computer generated purple on a white background. Artist name is in same purple and album title is in white. Not ground breaking design but an eye catching cover nonetheless. content : This album starts out with the track “Replikant” which I found to be one of the coolest on the release. It has a building ambience that introduces the beats and synths with murmuring voices and then breaks into guitar only to fall back to its previous quiet. It really gets me excited for the rest of the tracks. Some other high-
lights for me were “25 Hours” and “Revol Vex” two very different sides of the coin; the former very vocal rich and poppy, the latter another well built instrumental. Plus there’s a version of Haujobb’s classic “Homes & Gardens” which Björn Junemann originally helped create in his time with the band. This is a solidly written and well produced release with elements of EBM, Techno, and Trance all showing up to enrich the listening experience. The music and programming is above average and I found it interesting even over repeated listens. I liked that the music seemed to draw from a variety of sources for inspiration and isn’t just another cookie from the same EBM cutter. The lyrics are average and the mild vocal treatment sometimes reminds me of “Polarity” era Haujobb vocals (especially “Further Dose”). I’d have to recommend this release, it’s worth checking out even if the standard EBM fare is not for you.
grade : B (music : B+ . lyrics : B . recording quality : B+)
december 2008 AUXILIARY
reviewed by : Alex Kourelis
genre : Synthpop
content : Probably known best as “the other guy from Haujobb” through their first couple of albums, Björn Jünemann and brother Sven combine to create this duo from Bielefeld, Germany. Since the album comes from such a discerning background and is on a label I know well, Artoffact, my expectations were high with this release, and I was not disappointed. While the songs are of a lower tempo and somewhat formulaic, the music and vocals are sure to light up the dance floor due to it’s catchy hooks and adept attention to detail. With Standeg there’s quite a bit going on under the surface. The pace of the album is a welcome change and it allows you to ap-
preciate the amount of work that must go into such a release. The vocals could use a little more attention in that most of what’s in there is spoken in cadence rather than actually sung.
recommended tracks : Image in Motion, Easy to Forget, Homes & Gardens
if you like you might like : Haujobb, Mesh, Melotron
grade : B (music : B . lyrics : B . recording quality : A)
Standeg - UltraHighTechViolet
released by Artoffact on 18 November 2008
data : first full length album . 12 tracks . 66:49 run time . www.standeg.de
reviewed by : Paul Morin
genre : Dark Ambient
packaging : Designed by Adam Jones (of Tool). Creepy and cryptic, full of jolting images, occult references, and blank spaces.
content : With each song, the music starts quietly, usually drawing from silence. It slowly builds: Sub-bass patterns pulse and echo in the distance. Machinery grinds. Wind whistles and drones. There is a hiss or a groan or a scream or God only knows what that is. Foreboding sounds weave in and out. The listener is like a fly on the wall at some epic event, as though Cthulhu has been summoned forth and you are a completely insignificant part of this massive, slowly unfolding, dark event. The music is deep and meditative, and requires the full attention of the listener. Lustmord has been creating Lovecraft inspired soundscapes for decades now. On this album, he shifts gears a bit, adding guitarists Adam Jones (Tool), Aaron Turner (Isis) and King Buzzo (The Melvins). All of them grind their strings into their amplifiers (turned way past 11) creating howling distortion and slow, spidery lines. They appear on about half of the tracks on this album, and although all of these performers are incredibly talented in their own rights, each capable of unleashing a maelstrom of dark and creepy sounds, they seem to pale in comparison to the size and scope of Lustmord’s unholy invocations. At times, all I could think was I was listening to some creepy soundtrack, and really getting into all of the images the music created, and all of the sudden my kid brother is upstairs cranking up his practice amp and trying to play along to some stoner metal record he just found. Overall, the album is still satisfying. There are classic Lustmord tracks contained within, and the sounds are every bit as horrific and hair-raising as any of his best works. The guitars are my only grumble, and I can’t fault Lustmord for wanting to branch out, particularly since joining Isis’ label (Hydra Head records) means a new audience and acceptance by a crowd probably unfamiliar with his previous work. Besides that, the guitarists are capable and creepy in their own right, not bad players, just somehow out of place on some of on these tracks. And who wouldn’t be? This is the work of the eternal ones, drawing forth the most unholy of unholy beings, and Lustmord presents a convincing and terrifying glimpse of the scene.
grade : A (music : B+ . lyrics : n/a . recording quality : A+)
Lustmord - [other]
released by Hydra Head on 08 July 2008
data : 8 tracks . 78:08 run time . www.lustmord.com
reviewed by : Alex Kourelis
genre : Acid/Dubstep
content : Imagine DJing your favorite Two Lone Swordsmen vinyl at a club, then looking down and realizing that you set the RPM way too high on your decks, that’s the initial impression I got of James Watts and Bil Bless’ project Skeetaz. The adept studio work is coupled with some real talent in the making, some weird noises, and nabbing a few here and there. Not to worry though as most of what seems like samples in the work are mashed so deftly they don’t distract one from enjoying the track. In fact, the selections are so eclectic if you spend any time wondering if you heard a honky tonk piano, you’ll miss the Venetian Snares style glitching and forget what music like this is about, fun! My main gripe however is that Skeetaz seems to try so hard to impress us with the range of sounds they can make that the songs seem to drift like a child with ADD after a Red Bull. Point in case, the track “Duck Sauce” seems to get lost halfway through without a hope of being found again, until the last minute or so. recommended tracks : Duck Sauce, Assbref, French DouBa
if you like you might like : Two Lone Swordsmen, LFO
grade : A (music : A . lyrics : n/a . recording quality : A)
Skeetaz - Off
released by Proboscis on 25 November 2008
data : . 11 tracks . 77:40 run time . www.skeetaz.biz
MUSIC REVIEWS
reviewed by : DJ Leah
genre : Hard Electro/Industrial
packaging : Limited first 1000 copies comes in a carton bag and includes a full length bonus remix CD. Album work done by Nathan Winter of Industri Arts Studios.
content : NY based hard core electro duo formed in 2004 from two NYC DJs Rexx Arkana from Bruderschaft and Dracos. Their music can be best described as an angry onslaught of heavily armed club anthems consisting of po-
litical and war based lyrics and a cover song here and there. On Law and Ordnance you’ll find a cover of Pop Will Eat Itself’s “Ich Bin Ein Auslander”.
recommended tracks : Killing Fields, Ich Bin Ein Auslander, Emotion
if you like you might like : violent retribution and the hammering of fists, Funker Vogt, Wynardtage, Distorted Memory, Dioxyde
grade : B (music : B . lyrics : A . recording quality : B)
FGFC820 - Law and Ordnance
released by COP International on 24 October 2008
data : second album . 14 tracks . 64:30 run time . www.FGFC820.com
DYM - The Invilid
released by COP International on 7 October 2008
data : debut release . 10 tracks . 42:00 run time . www.enterdym.com
reviewed by : Razorgrrl
packaging : “The Invilid” comes in a jewel case, with a 4-page liner note. The cover adorns a sexy girl caught in wires, while the inside shows the standard “industrial-style” pose from the band members. The album art seems rushed, and isn’t my first choice for fabulous album art. But it gets the job done and sets a nice tone for the accom-
panying music.
content : Growing on the strengths of several self-released EPs and teasers, Canadian artist DYM’s debut release “The Invilid” is a start in the right direction. DYM has been active in the Toronto industrial scene for many years, and this full-length release is sure to be welcomed by their growing fan base set from live performances and social networking websites. DYM utilize deftness and skill to deliver ten tracks that cross styles and genres. DYM does not disappoint! With influences from fellow Toronto acts Fractured and Famine, listeners will hear dark terror EBM, incorporating aspects of glitch, breakcore and power noise. DYM use a healthy variety of beats and styles to provide us with danceable stomping tracks -- No boring songs that all sound alike! The highlights are definitely “Bender” and “The Invilid”. I love these tracks! The glitch breakcore qualities really stand out to me, and separate these songs from regular industrial fare. It is this crossover of genres that gives appeal, and shows how industrial has more to give. For more traditional industrial EBM anthems, look to “Neuworldbrave”, “Autonomy of the Will”, “Martha Monoxide”, and “Government Stomp!” for rhythmic beats and a good solid crunch, all with a bit of a twist. Excellent dance floor tracks that will appeal to any crowd out to shake their booty. “Touch” brings a slower quality to the middle of the album, which is a nice change of pace showing us that DYM can provide more than just a good beat that rattles your soul. Variety is good. Yes. I recommend this album to all. In the this age of bands that tend to sound alike with no variation, and present little in the way of originality, DYM brings back my confidence that good industrial music still exists. Highlights on the album include the album opener “Bender”, the fast-paced “Neuworldbrave”, “Autonomy of the Will” and the title track “The Invilid”. This reviewer hopes to hear more from the band, as it evolves and gives us more quality releases! Thank you DYM.
if you like you might like : Grendel, Tactical Sekt, Aesthetic Perfection, FGFC820, Fractured, Die Sektor, Wynardtage, Nurzery[Rhymes]
grade : A (music : A . lyrics : B . recording quality : B)
A Kiss Could Be Deadly - A Kiss Could Be Deadly
released by Metropolis on 18 March 2008
data : 5 piece band . first full length album . 12 tracks . 47:25 run time . www.akisscouldbedeadly.com
reviewed by : Mike Kieffer
genre : Electronic, Rock
packaging : Album cover uses the eye-catching colors of pink and black, which seems to be a popular choice for album covers over the last few years. The cover art contains some overlapping images and some optical illusion tunnel vision thing going on. Its not cover art that will win awards or be recognized for decades, but most of the time album covers are disappointing anyways... and as they say don’t judge a book by its cover. content : This recent Metropolis Records release is not the standard electronic music release that we are use to, but a more pop rock release that seems to becoming more and more popular these days. The album A Kiss Could Be Deadly starts out with the track “The Exit”, an upbeat dance pop punk song with a little darker edge then say Avril Lavine, but not as guitar heavy as The Birthday Massacre. This level is kept at a constant throughout the 12 tracks. The singing could be considered a little nasally, but it is easy to overcome. The lyrics are about love and life and some fantastical situations, not in the tween to teenager sense, more like twentysomething, although I am pushing thirty and I could relate, then again maybe I am just trying to relive my youth. The songs are easy to listen to and you will find yourself singing along in no time. “Just Another Mystery” and “The Book, Not the Feeling” are two tracks I recommend. Although I could recommend any of the tracks on the album, they are all consistently good. Overall, I wouldn’t say this is the best album of ’08 but it is damn good. When you find yourself listening to dark gloomy music and you get in a funk of I want to die in a grey room on a grey cloudy day, A Kiss Could Be Deadly will definitely pump up your spirits and fill you with energy. grade : A- (music : B+ . lyrics : B . recording quality : A)
MUSIC REVIEWS
35
anatomy of an al t wardrobe : THE BASICS
The structure of a strong and basic wardrobe is the tried and true basics! Now, I am in no way here to down play your vinyl pants, corsets, and bullet belts, but you should have a good grounding in which to make your “alt” wardrobe smoking!
The idea of having a solid “base” to a wardrobe is important, you’ll have versatility which will allow you to create many different looks. Having a good foundation will only make choosing outfits easier, and you’ll be able to accommodate your mood and possible changes of interest. I personally like to view at my wardrobe as a library of “looks”. But at the same time, I also like to throw in a few oddballs for fun. Let’s go over some good basics to own…
Black Pants – jeans . Dickies . flares . straight-legged . boot cut You need this item in your closet, as it can be dressed up or down. Black pants can be both versatile and comfortable or edgy and sexy. I personally prefer a skinny or boot cut denim pant, as I can wear them with a variety of different shirts.
Boots – heeled . combat . flat . girlie . feminine . masculine . sleek
Boots are a monumental staple. Guys just need to own them (as you can wear them practically all the time) and girls should have more than one pair (so you have the right style for the right outfit). Even during family occasions, shine those babies up, and people will think no less of your shoes (even though they are the Doc’s you just wore out the night before to the club).
Jacket – blazer . bomber . suit-coat
Don’t just think “conservative blahs”; you really can create a signature piece in your wardrobe with a jacket. Slap on some pins, patches, deconstruct, reconstruct, and make it yours. I know people who are “known” by their jackets. Plus it keeps you warm and may protect from beer spills.
The Plain Tee
What can I say, you just need to own plain tees! Solid colors in black, white, and all colors of the rainbow. Plain tee’s can be great under a dress, with a corset, or under a men’s suit coat.
Accessories – bandanas . pendants . band buttons . necklaces . rings . bracelets . handbags … the list can go on forever
Making an outfit with this selection of basic must-haves is simple, effective, and stylish. by Meagan Breen
www.forever21.com
www.howkewl.com
www.dickies.com and www.dickiesgirl.com
www.americanapparelstore.com
www.tukshoes.com
www.zappos.com
For example:
For a lady: Take a white fitted tee, black skinny jeans, cropped and fitted pinstripe blazer, and Doc Martens. Then throw on some colored bangles, a pendant necklace, and some band pins.
For a gent: A black tee, dark wash boot-cut jeans, DIY patched suit-coat, TUK mon-
key boots, and black leather wrist cuffs put together make a great outfit.
Think about all the items in your wardrobe, and then separate them into the basic cat-
egories above, once you start outfit building the possibilities are endless. It’s just like shopping, but in your own closet. These suggestions are geared to help you stretch your fashion outlook and see that spending a lot of moo-lah is not always necessary.
So, now we’re all set on basics. When you start buying eclectic pieces to add to your wardrobe, you won’t be scratching your head thinking, “Why did I buy this? I have nothing that matches it!” You are prepared for any fashion disaster or success, thanks to those basics!!!!!! Suggestions and Tips:
When shopping at the mall, online, etc, look at your closet before you leave for your shopping adventure. This way you have a fresh grasp on what’s in your dark vortex of a closet before you go hog-wild and come home with those ass-less chaps you thought would look good with your Mickey Mouse tee. Evaluate your cash flow too! If you’re looking to shop smart, don’t be impulsive (well at least not all the time)! Here are some fashion websites to build up those basics!
december 2008 AUXILIARY
reviewed by : Alex Kourelis
genre : Electro/House/Acid/Dubstep
content : This disc really surprised me. At first you get an acid bassline and a drum pattern without much depth, but halfway through the first track I knew there were some angles I hadn’t considered from the onset. The chord structure is really what shines on this disc, most of all from song to song. Although it seems the number of instruments used was rather limited, Kettel proves that it’s not the tools you use but how you use them. He pounds this point home with shining pieces that smack of a very adept musical hand. It’s obvious very quickly that unlike most pop music, Ket-
tel wishes to bring a classical influence to the table… albeit with a TB-303 acid line. The production is lacking however in that there isn’t much punch to the recording at all. Some parts seem more thin than others (very evident from the drums) and espe-
cially the mood setting pieces could be enhanced by a re-mix to add ambience.
recommended tracks : Shimamoto, Church, Palles’s Popsong
if you like you might like : Solvent, Add N to (X), Das Kraftfuttermischwerk
grade : B (music : A . lyrics : n/a . recording quality : C)
AUXILIARY december 2008
Kettel - Myam James Part 1
released by Sending Orbs on 15 April 2008
data : 11 tracks . 53:14 run time . www.myspace.com/captainkettel
reviewed by : Paul Morin
genre : Industrial/Experimental
packaging : 40 page booklet with explanatory notes by Blixa Bargeld. Text in English and German with English translation of lyrics.
content : In any approach to art (be it music, painting, or poetry) there are two extremes of the creative process. On the one side, the artist is working within the established forms, trying to “perfect” the discipline. On the other end, the artist is trying to invent new forms and simultaneously obliterate the established ones. Order on the one side, Chaos on the other. Most artists fall somewhere between the two, favoring technique over originality (such as pop song writers) or vice-versa. Einsturzende Neubauten have long been the champions of Chaos, of the destructive personality that collapses new buildings to create new ones, veering as close to the edge of pure noise as possible without falling into the abyss. But what happens when the creators need inspiration? When you’ve seen and done it all before?
On “The Jewels”, Neubauten created a system of cards, each containing short instructions for the performers to follow on a given song. The musicians drew a card, two, three, or four, depending on how much instruction they felt they needed, and made up the rules of the game as they went along. Examples of the instructions included “wire/ two words/ memorable” and “fruit/ gently/ muted/ major”. The members then frantically set about their rehearsal space, gathering materials. Each song was written and recorded very quickly, part of the “game”, and the results are more often than not very interesting and original, this is after all, Neubauten. But this isn’t to say that Neubauten has given up on everything they have accomplished, flashes of their past few albums, which seem to favor a more traditional, structured approach to song-writing, go hand in hand with the anarchistic metal crashes and splashes of old. The method simply gives a new trick for old dogs.
The CD comes with a 40 minute Quicktime video (in German) which shows how the different members went about interpreting the cards they were given. It is great to look at the creative process of this band, it is often more important than the finished product itself, and getting into the heads of the various members to see how they create is intrigu-
ing and inspiring.
recommended tracks : Maygar Energia, Am I only Jesus
grade : B (music : B . lyrics : B . recording quality : A)
Einsturzende Neubauten - The Jewels
released by Potomak on 26 May 2008
data : 15 tracks . 44:20 run time plus 40:00 video . www.neubauten.org
reviewed by: Paul Morin
Packaging : Puzzling album cover with a golf cart/ motorcycle hybrid being driven by a fish-headed man. Looks like that kid you knew in high school that was pretty good at drawing got bored in study hall and went to town on the back of his notebook.
content : Kettel’s music stands firmly between IDM and Ambient Techno, compos-
ing tracks similar to Aphex Twin’s Ambient works or Ulrich Schnauss’ dreamscapes. While not breaking any new ground or creating its own place in the electronic uni-
verse, it has a relaxed, passive approach similar to watching clouds on a sunny day. Or, as Tony Wilson’s character (playing God playing Tony Wilson) said in 24 Hour Party People, “It’s good music to chill out to.”
Vertically, the music is very interesting, new sounds are added on top of existing loops and pads to create a dense atmosphere akin to Eno or The Orb. Horizontally, the music is fairly stagnant, it starts with a beat, adds and drops instruments, and ends in the same place it started with little or no development. The music doesn’t demand attention; it creates a mood and then swirls around in its own colors. There isn’t much particularly memorable or hooky in the melodies created, nothing gets stuck in your head and there isn’t anything to whistle to yourself after the music has ended. As such, it serves as background music, best for doing chores around the house or a lazy Sunday drive. Fortunately, Kettel’s ability to layer sounds saves the album from sliding into monotony. Despite the lack of movement, there are some great textures that lure the listener in to the dreams being created.
The strong points of the album are those that favor ambiance over all else, particu-
larly the hypnotic “The Church” and the spacey “Ende”. Both have such nice textures and tones that they transcend the lack of movement. Better still, Secede’s remix of “The Church” approaches Haujobb’s dark, ambient EBM, and has an eerie, futurist quality that wouldn’t be out of place on the Tron soundtrack.
Overall, the album is nice if nothing else. It isn’t particularly challenging or original, but is full of great ideas that ultimately create nice textures suitable for your next headphone-induced trip.
recommended tracks : The Church, Ende, The Church (Secede remix)
grade : B (music : B . lyrics : n/a . recording quality : A)
MUSIC REVIEWS
36 37
Vaudeville/Cabaret/Burlesque
The Dresden Dolls . Coney Island . Lucent Dossier . Dr. Sketchy’s Anti-Art School
With a focus on artistry, performance, sensuality and good old-fashioned showman-
ship, the appeal of the “variety show” has wormed its way into the alternative fashion scene, bringing with it a blast of much-needed color, humor, and energy.
As early as 2001 The Dresden Dolls were wowing audiences with their wry blend of “punk cabaret” music, first in the gritty atmosphere of Boston’s The Middle East and finally to audiences of thousands on tour with Nine Inch Nails. As appealing as their music was, equally so was the band’s distinct sense of style, which combined starkly painted “mime”-style faces and somber colors with 20’s-style lingerie and slips, often imitated by fans of the band. Nowadays, frontwoman Amanda Palmer favors a more eclectic look (she donned an original Skingraft dress in the Doll’s most recent tour), yet the band’s aesthetic remains firmly rooted in their vaudevillian past.
Circus troupe Lucent Dossier brings the look and sensibility of old-school Coney Is-
land to audiences across the country while on tour with bands like Panic! At the Disco and flame-haired songstress Emilie Autumn. Attractions include fire-dancers, contor-
tionists, jugglers, and even burlesque dancers. The look varies widely from performer to performer, but often combines elements of traditional circus costuming with gritty or dark references. Gender-bending dress and references are not uncommon, nor are irreverent combinations like sneakers and elaborate dresses, or Vegas-meets-Native-
American style headdresses paired with skimpy outfits.
Dr. Sketchy’s Anti-Art School, originally founded in New York by Molly Crabapple in 2005, has spread to form branches worldwide, with events running across the US, Europe, and even Japan. Founder Molly Crabapple created the first event in Brooklyn as an answer to the typical “life drawing” format; she asked, “Why can’t drawing na-
ked people be sexy?”. The result is 3-hour weekly drawing session featuring unusual and often elaborately-costumed models and burlesque performers, interspersed with offbeat comedy sketches and light-hearted drawing contests. Though the styles of weekly models may vary according to theme, many models pay homage to the classic elements of burlesque fashion, this means absolute decadence, glittering rhinestones, high heels, and perfectly matching apparel.
“Vaudeville” or cabaret-inspired influences are so diverse it’s easy to add a sprinkle of it to your look. Chances are you may already own some of the things you need, just try to look at them in a new way. Do you have a bustled overskirt, perhaps a mini top-hat? Consider wearing the overskirt over a pair of pantaloons or ruffled shorts instead of a long skirt. Decorate your mini top-hat with feathers, gems and ribbons... you can even mount these on clips so you can remove the embellishments later to return to a simpler look. Scour vintage or secondhand shops for slips, especially those from the 30’s, 40’s, and 50’s, and wear them with opulent accessories of your choice. Striped stockings can be obtained at most shops, but look for vertical stripes for an especially figure-flattering look (horizontal stripes can widen curvy legs). Perhaps the menswear-inspired aesthetic is more your forte? Suspenders, bowler hats, and menswear inspired pieces like heeled oxford or button boots make for delightfully ir-
reverent selections. Consider pairing them with otherwise “feminine” pieces (corsets, frilled skirts, garter belts) for textural contrast, or style your look completely after sideshow circus dandies. For additional suggestions, refer to vintage photos of circus performers or burlesque stars, easily found through online archives. Take a look at traditional circus costumes... are there design influences there you can borrow from? Remember, while made-to-match and perfectly coordinating pieces can be attractive, they are not necessary for a successful look. A combination of colors, materials, and fabrics can lend that punch to your outfits that makes them more interesting. Steampunk
Skingraft . Ernte Fashion Systems . Vecona
The whirlwind of press regarding “the steampunk question” makes another explana-
tion seem redudant. Put simply, steampunk is fundamentally anachronistic in nature; it is the future as envisioned by inhabitants of previous eras. For many, this means Victorian aesthetic with old-style technology touches, but you needn’t stop your ex-
ploration of the genre there. Though this style is now associated with the clichГ© of top hats adorned with welding goggles, there are many more original and compelling images to be explored in steampunk style and many designers breaking through the mold.
Enter apocalyptic-glam outfitters Skingraft. Skingraft Designs makes leather and twill pieces, ranging from heavily studded, laced, and silk lined jackets and gowns running into the thousands of dollars, to a ready-to-wear leather and twill pieces that are more accessible to the average shopper. Skingraft’s approach to design is part “Mad Max”, part western-wear, part retro-futuristic, capturing silhouettes of bygone eras in decidedly modern materials with a contemporary cut. In the same vein is Ernte Fashion Systems, creators of mostly heavily embellished jackets and gowns as well as primitive jewelry cast in silver and adorned with gems. Ernte’s pieces betray a high level of detail in a couture presentation whether it is hundreds of interlocking chains, intricate embroidery sweeping across fine leather, screen printed art, or brocades, furs, and jean material pieced together. The look? Deconstructed style that is highly cohesive and intentional, unity of presentation in chaos.
Representing the other end of the spectrum is the elegant avante-garde styling of Vecona. Not to be couched in the “steampunk” genre solely, Vecona’s inspiration runs the gamut from aristocratic styling of eras gone by to playful alternative wear. However, many of her pieces (from black and brown striped dresses to accessories featuring baby doll eyes and keyholes) would be at home in any steampunk inspired wardrobe. Her accessories evoke a “wearable collage” feel for the wrist, head, or neck, exploding with pearls, tattered lace, burnished brass, and one-of-a-kind an-
tiques.
The key to infusing steampunk in your attire is to reject clichés and integrate what you find personally inspiring... steampunk doesn’t need to end in 19th century Europe! If you love Asian decor or prefer black to brown bring these things into your look. Perhaps you identify with the “punk” side of steampunk, this can come out in brass chains, tattered and torn “collage-style” garments, or antiquated technology. Maybe you’d like to wear a full Victorian dress and accessorize with taxidermy jewelry and aging bronze pieces. Some even prefer to merge technology, science, and fashion, creating pneumatic wings that expand with a touch of a button or vials filled with ambiguous fluids. Whatever your approach, try to infuse an element of the personal and the hand-made in it. Steampunk ensembles become “richer” when a hand-crafted necklace, a laboratory creation, or an original design is part of the total look.
december 2008 AUXILIARY
A dust-storm is gathering in subcultural fashion, and it’s covering all that was black in a flickering layer of grit, sand, and scratches. The clean-cut, forward looking minimalism of futuristic fashion is stepping aside for a new generation... a generation that looks to the past for in-
spiration. The result? A vintage inspired fashion approach, sometimes chaotic and cobbled together, sometimes cohesive and composed, but always nostalgically fashion-forward.
Bellydance
Med’Devi Ink . Black Lotus Clothing . Kathleen Crowley Costume Couture . Rachel Brice
Alternative fashion has enjoyed a long-standing affair with the mys-
tique of bellydance. Sensuous, body-positive, and creative, the appeal of Middle Eastern dance, culture, and fashion in the Gothic subculture is a natural one. The interplay between the two even spawned “Raks Gothique”, or Gothic Bellydance, a style that fuses Gothic sensibility with traditional Middle Eastern dance.
The history and culture of bellydance is a complex and varied one, too dense to summarize in a short article. The curious reader can discover more about the special facet of dark bellydance at Med’Devi’s The Gothic Bellydance Resource (www.gothicbellydance.com). An abun-
dance of information about traditional bellydance is available on many sources throughout the internet.
Those of us studying bellydance for its aesthetic appeal will find much to celebrate about in the recently-launched Black Lotus Clothing la-
bel. Designer Christina Molcillo’s hand-sewn line of bellydance per-
formance tops, belts, and accessories are an inspired take on typical performance costuming; she embellishes midriff-bearing tops and hip-
brushing belts with black sequins, lace, striped fabric, and even origi-
nal screen-printed artwork. The palette of rich blacks, ivory whites, and dusky grays would be equally at home in a dark dance club as on a stage, so don’t be afraid to appropriate a touch of bellydance fashion for your personal wardrobe. Also of note is Kathleen Crowley Cos-
tume Couture, designer of one-of-a-kind, customized fashion as well as a range of stylish and beautiful bellydance practice and performance gear. You can find her wares on Etsy, including Sampants, her capri-
length stretch pants embellished with sweeping bias-cut ruffles.
Designer and performer Med’Devi Ink offers a very different take on this fusion-fashion approach. Her “Corset Belts” and “Skorsets” start with bellydance belts and scarves as an inspiration and blend it with the iconic Gothic fashion accessory, the corset. The result is a piece with cross-over appeal, with tassels and silken lengths that will flutter along with you on the dance floor. The ambitious can even create their own design using Med’Devi’s pattern for the patented design.
Interested in bringing a touch of bellydance style to your wardrobe? Since bellydance pieces are created with the needs of performers in sepia-colored glasses
in fashion, all that is old is new again
current trends in alternative fashion
by Sally Reardon
mind, performance tops (cholis, halters, etc) will keep you comfortable and cool dancing all night long. Many pieces are made out of stretch fabrics and cottons that will move as you move, a beauti-
ful answer to the oft-restrictive world of corsets and high heels. Prefer something a bit more mod-
est? Full skirts and circle-skirts with scarves or belts draped around your hips allow for a full range of motion while still adding a touch of Middle Eastern flavor to your look.
Those more interested in accessories, hair, and makeup may prefer to adopt the dramatic makeup and adornments frequently associated with the tribal style of bellydance. Visit the website of the exceedingly popular Rachel Brice for more examples of this look. Kohl-lined eyes will be familiar for those who incorporate the gothic aesthetic into their style, but also consider purchasing some elaborate bindis or buying/creating some headpieces or hair adornments. The astute shopper will find many ready-to-wear pieces available, or you can craft your own out of old jewelry parts, fake flowers, chain, beading, and trim. Remember, personal style and taste is key, don’t limit yourself to the colors, styles and interpretations of the look created by others... as with anything creative, endeavor to inspire and innovate! 38 39 Ladies step aside, as it’s a chance for Auxiliary Magazine to give a salute to the men in the alt fashion world. Very little attention is paid to men’s fashion but there are many dapper, swanky, quirky, and suave gents out there making fashion statements! We have picked out a few guys with a solid grasp on their individual sense of style, and who are passionate about their outward appearance as well as the alternative scenes they are in. These guys are everything but boring! And we got them all to take time out of their busy schedules to talk about their fashion influences, tips, and shopping strategies. Cause hey, guys like clothes too!
Drummer from the Buffalo, NY based band The Rabies, Steve Sojka finds influences in deathrock, goth, and punk to create his own “Sophisticated Punk” style. Steve started pushing the fashion limits at a young age, he would buy suit coats at thrift shops, modify them into “punk” fashion by adding liberty spikes, and wear them with ripped jeans. Through the years as his influences, music tastes, and personal acquaintances changed, he started throwing in other items; poet shirts, vinyl pants, bondage accessories, and black slowly started filled his closet. But music apparel, like band swag and patches, has always been a constant in Steve’s wardrobe, as DYI is a staple of his style.
Steve finds a lot of his clothing when he is on tour with The Rabies, visiting cities like New York City, LA, and Toronto. One of his favorite stores to stop in is Trash and Vaudeville in New York City. Trash and Vaudeville (actually two separate stores on top of one another) is located on the infamous St. Mark’s Place (once a punk haven) in the East Village. According to Steve, “If you know Jimmy he’ll give you 15% off!” He’s also been know in the past to shop at Serious in LA and the since closed, Siren in Toronto. Steve says, “There are so many stores out there you just have to take the time to check them out and have an idea of what you are looking for.”
Lip Service is this sophisticated punker-a-go-go’s favorite fashion label. He does find his dress to be influenced by his bands music. He likes to dress classy, but throws in some items with shock value for when he performs on stage. Sitting behind his green leopard print drum kit and often seen wearing a noose as a necktie, Steve beats those pigskins like it’s his job (literally!). With his bleach blonde spiked hair he does not blend into the background, and sometimes he’ll be seen wearing an occasional top hat and gas mask combination! Steve’s greatest fashion tip on and off stage is, “Always make sure your package looks good!”
His musical involvement with, The Rabies, has Steve performing many roles: drum-
mer, promoter/advertiser, roadie, and driver. The Rabies formed in 2003 and since then have “infected” many cities as well as receiving airplay in the US and as far as Australia! The Rabies can be described as “horror rock”, with performances reminis-
cent of horror movies and old cabaret vaudeville with a B-movie twist. The Rabies music is creepy, but fun! The sound of the band has often been described as a concoc-
tion of punk, new wave, and goth. If you want to “get infected” check out Steve and his band mates on their website www.therabies.com. “No matter how much you dare to resist, they will infect you...
The Rabies are contagious.”
Derek Hendrickson can be spotted wearing top hats to work while draped in the usual black and truly believes, “everyday is Halloween.” Derek says, “I enjoy making a skeptical out of myself, as fashion is fun.” When describing his style, you can simply call him “gothabilly”, a blending of goth and rockabilly styling (also a musical genre, yes, it does exist!). But when it come to dress, he’s not limited to one label, as Derek also enjoys neo-Victorian or steampunk influenced garb. From his well-groomed pompadour quiff to his red-cross creepers, Derek is a character! This top-hatter finds his favorite articles of clothing at Trash and Vaudeville in New York City and online at www.shrine.com. He has a vast collection of Guayabera’s, also know as Mexican wedding shirts, and you will never see him without a unique piece of jewelry hanging around his neck. His favorite bone saw necklace by Sprag-
werks is the usual everyday neckwear. Derek also enjoys strolling the isles of Target and thrift stores, looking for button-up vests, fedoras, and adding to his collection of striped socks. He can’t get enough of the velvety, spooky, and creepy attire that haunts his closets. Along with an artistic and expressive sense of style, Derek is a jack-of-all-artsy-fart-
sy-trades. His current major focus is on tattoos, and he works as a tattoo artist at Re-
naissance Studios in Buffalo, NY. Derek has been tattooing for close to 3 years and has developed his artistic drawing skills into works-of-art on the flesh. Before taking the plunge into the job of tattooist, Derek traveled all over the country selling his sculpted creations. He says he, “Suffers from Elvis Disease,” and his hand-poured, hand-painted, hand-molded satirical Elvis busts have appeared in tattoo magazines and celebrities homes, and have even been featured in the teen magazine Jane. All of Derek’s creativity is reflected in his clothing, but it is in his own tattoos that his sense of humor comes out! This dapper-cadaver shows his love for Spam with a comical creation on his leg, has an astronaut Elvis singing in space on his forearm, has Frankenstein-like stitches around his arms, and the infamous ZZZ’s on his knuck-
les. There is never a dull moment in the world of Mr. Dzzzzz. Check Derek out at www.myspace.com/derekula and www.renaissancetattoosbuf-
falo.com.
Newt a.k.a. Shawn Egressy best describes his style as, “Newt!” He can be dressed in anything from a t-shirt and jeans to a gimp mask and tailored suit. He says, “I’m not here to make a radical statement, I’m here to be me and do what I do. If I feel like making an oil painting under a bridge with a girl’s dress on in the middle of summer, I’m going to do it.” Newt has a varied array of shopping adventures, some favorites are: Metro Park, Hot Topic, Against All Odds, and Ebay. N3wt blends styles from hip-hop culture and skater style, and often likes to purchase items that are a bit obnoxious in size, color, and design. Artful Dodger and Subscript are two of N3wt’s favorite fashion labels; both have a modern and urban feel to them. They use sleek cuts, bright colors, large silk screens, and offer an artful spin on the hip-hop style of dress.
His dress and style are influenced by his artistic renderings and his musical projects. He describes his paintings and drawings as, “madness.” His creations are often large in size with lots of colors. They are not limited just to paper and canvas; Newt’s art-
work can be found on his own body as tattoos, on walls, and on fabric. He makes art for art’s sake and says he’s not trying to hide any deep meaning behind them.
Newt plays with his band Kryszt, performs live with Digital Geist, and creates beats soloing as N3wt. Newt is no stranger to the music scene, as he has been producing, creating, and djing electronic music since 2000. Some of his influences are: Orbital, Aphex Twin, This Morn Omina, and cEvin Key. Newt has performed his solo and group projects in many cities: Buffalo, Rochester, Albany, Cleveland, and Toronto are a few. Newt always brings his high energy to the performances along with the music. Newt’s current focus has been producing, as music is a deep passion for him and he would like to share it with as many people as possible. Check him out at www.myspace.com/n3wt, www.myspace.com/kryszt, and www.
digitalgeist.com.
Gathering these insights into alternative fashion from our “men with style” has been inspirational. It’s been refreshing to hear alt fashion discussed from the male point of view. No matter what your style or what inspires you, ZZ Top said it best, “every girl’s crazy about a sharp dressed man!” Amen.
MEN WITH STYLE
by Meagan Breen
MEN WITH
style
Photographer : Luke Coppi ng
Fashi on Styl i st : Meagan Breen
Model s : Steve Soj ka, Derek Hendri ckson, and Shawn “Newt” Egressy
AUXILIARY december 2008
THIS PAGE tuxedo tails and shirt from thrift store, top hat from Trash and Vaudeville, black jeans by Trash, and coffin toed shoes from Bovvers
december 2008 AUXILIARY
THIS PAGE Lip Service t-shirt, Lip Service pvc pants, DIY bondage belt made by Steve, and creepers by Demonia
AUXILIARY december 2008
THIS PAGE
Lip Service daggers shirt and black jeans by Trash
december 2008 AUXILIARY
AUXILIARY december 2008
THIS PAGE
velvet blazer, black shirt with hand-sewn buttons by Alchemy Gothic, Lip Service pants, and motorcycle boots
OPPOSITE PAGE
shirt from Shrine, vest from Arsenic Fashions, and pants by Tripp NYC
december 2008 AUXILIARY
THIS PAGE
Cirque du Soleil t-shirt, and pants by Dogpile
OPPOSITE PAGE
burgundy Guayabera shirt by Raugo Classic, Dickies pants, and creepers by GBX
AUXILIARY december 2008
december 2008 AUXILIARY
THIS PAGE
striped pink shirt by Morbid Threads and pants by South Pole
AUXILIARY december 2008
THIS PAGE
vest by Tripp NYC, t-shirt from Hot Topic, pinstriped pants by Billabong, and shoes by Dr. Martens
THIS PAGE
Vice by Lip Service Dutchess De Sade II Danse Macabre Victorian Mourning Jacket and corset Skirt in black lace textured pvc material
OPPOSITE PAGE
Vicious Dolls ivory corset with black lace overlay, Vicious Dolls leather gloves, skirt with sequin stitched hem by Tatterdemalion Designs, and pearl pendant necklace by Shalottlilly
december 2008 AUXILIARY
Invitation Only
cocktai l dresses, gowns, l ace, and si l k for al l of wi nter’s eveni ng occasi ons
Photographer : Jenni fer Li nk
Fashi on Styl i st : Meagan Breen and Jenni fer Li nk
Makeup Arti st : Rachel Mazurek
Hai r Styl i st : Eri n Moser
Model s : Jessi Ka Vi ol et and Mari e Chri sti na
AUXILIARY december 2008
THIS PAGE
Kambriel full length stripped black coat with long black ruffled skirt by Vicious Dolls
december 2008 AUXILIARY
THIS PAGE
Blacklist by Lip Service Core Ruffle Dress Shirt, Tatterdemalion Designs burgundy bustle overlay skirt, and Scarlet Hat by Dungaree Dolly
AUXILIARY december 2008
december 2008 AUXILIARY
THIS PAGE
Lip Service R.I.P. Eternal Love Cap Sleeve Top with all-over tombstone print and Kambriel crushed velvet bloomers with lace trim
OPPOSITE PAGE
Kambriel Silk Wisteria Gown in black with Blacklist by Lip Service Core Cincher in blood red silk
AUXILIARY december 2008
december 2008 AUXILIARY
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Lip Service Funeral Doll Perfume and Lace Party Dress in violet with Victorian Petal Necklace by Shalottlilly
OPPOSITE PAGE
Blacklist by Lip Service Requiem for the Dead II Long Ago and Far Away Waist Cincher with Fatality Rate Layer Skirt in black velvet and Dead and Loving It Party Dress in burgundy velvet
AUXILIARY december 2008
where to buy
Alchemy Gothic
www.alchemygothic.com
Arsenic Fashions
www.arsenicfashions.com
Artful Dodger
www.artfuldodgercollection.com
Black Lotus Clothing www.blacklotusclothing.com
Billabong
www.billabong.com
Bovvers
1216 Buena Vista St, Pittsburgh, PA
Dickies
www.dickies.com
Dogpile
www.dogpilecloze.com
Dr. Martens
www.drmartens.com
Dungaree Dolly
www.dungareedolly.com
Ego Assassin
www.ego-assassin.com
Ernte Fashion Systems
www.erntefashionsystems.com
GBX
www.gbxshoe.com
Hot Topic
www.hottopic.com
Kambriel
www.kambriel.com
Kathleen Crowley Costume Couture
www.KathleenCrowley.etsy.com
Lip Service
www.lip-service.com
Med’Devi Ink www.meddevi.com
Morbid Threads
www.hottopic.com
Rachel Brice
www.rachelbrice.com
Serious Clothing
www.seriousclothing.com
Shalotlilly
www.shalottlilly5.etsy.com
Shrine
www.shrinestore.com
Skingraft
www.skingraftdesigns.com
South Pole
www.southpole-usa.com
Spregworks
www.myspace.com/spragwerks Subscript
www.karmaloop.com
Tatterdemalion Designs
www.tatterdemaliondesigns.com
Trash and Vaudeville
4 St Mark’s Place, New York, NY
Tripp NYC
www.trippnyc.com
Vecona
http://www.vecona.de
Vicious Dolls
www.vicious-dolls.com
www.auxiliarymagazine.com
next issue
february 2009
Автор
Tyrion
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