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Auxiliary №17

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Auxiliary Magazine is an alternative fashion, music, and lifestyle magazine available online for free. AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2011 auxiliarymagazine.com
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2011
heavy red
jillian venters / gothic charm school
xanthia pink
hanin elias
pinar eris
autumn affair
ruffles lace shadows
frost gloss saturation
plaid pattern punk
contributors
This issue is full of fashion and style for the transition into fall. Ruffles, lace, patterns, plaids, stripes, gloss, shadows, romance, dreams, pack the pages. On our cover and in our designer spotlight feature you’ll find the latest from beloved designer of all things dark and goth, Heavy Red. Get the perfect style for the sea-
son with bold, dynamic, sharp, and saturated looks in our beauty editorials. Tune up your makeup skills with our new Details feature showing you that to capture the latest trend, it’s in the details. Get nostalgic with our fashion editorial shot with film and full of innocence and playfulness. This issue may be a bit fashion heavy, can you blame us with it being the fall season, but there is plenty to fit the feeling to buckle down, get serious, and focus. Stimulate your mind with insights from Jillian Venters of the long-running advice column Gothic Charm School, Adam Rosina on the legalization of gay marriage in Black Theorem, and Hanin Elias formerly of Atari Teenage Riot in our Seven Deadly Questions feature. So enjoy the fashion and style with a hint of intellectualism that is autumn, or maybe you’ll see it with a bit less optimism, in the way our music editor Mike sees this issue, with a trend of doom, decay, and apocalypse throughout! As always, thank you for your support.
Sincerely, Jennifer Link
Auxiliary Magazine. auxiliary = alternative, supplementary, to provide what is missing, to give support. We have always had a love for the different, the unique, the creative. But from all sides we’ve heard what we love is on its way out, is suffering, is dying, is dead. Today an alternative aesthetic is seen more than ever. Yet the core, the base, the scene; everyone is telling us is in a sad state. Reality is what you make it.
Our goal is to provide high quality fashion editorials, photographs, and articles; unique reviews and insights on the best media out there; and to create discussion and passion about alternative subcultures. There is a lot of amazing and creative stuff happening. We hope to find it, highlight it, and encourage it to grow.
That is why we’ve created Auxiliary Magazine; an online and print magazine dedi-
cated to fashion, music, and lifestyle with a darker aesthetic. There are no other boundaries than that. That is the strong point of alternative culture; and we hope to include it all.
That is a lot of ground to cover. So contribute! Send us your fashion, your music, your events, your opinions, your projects, your ideas. This magazine isn’t for a select few, we don’t know it all, this magazine is for you and what we all love.
Staff
Editor in Chief
Jennifer Link
Fashion Editor
Meagan Hendrickson
Music Editor
Mike Kieffer
Associate Editor
Luke Copping
Associate Fashion Editor
Molly Hoeltke
Copy Editor
Zach Rose
www.auxiliarymagazine.com
email : info@auxiliarymagazine.com
issue 17 : august/september 2011
ISSN 1948-9676
Photographs / Illustrations
Photographers
Jennifer Link www.jennifer-link.com
Donnor www.michaeldonnorphotography.com
Brent Leideritz www.twentyfourb.com
Saryn Christina www.sarynchristina.com
H. James Hoff www.hjameshoff.com
Zach Rose www.zachrosephotography.com
photographs on 16
Jennifer Link www.jennifer-link.com
illustration on 24
James S. Cole www.angels2zombies.com
photograph on 26
Ron Douglas www.mediafall.com
photographs on 31
Jennifer Link www.jennifer-link.com
Advertising
email : advertise@auxiliarymagazine.com with all inquires
Contributors
Aaron Andrews
Aaron Fleisher
Meagan Hendrickson
Molly Hoeltke
Mike Kieffer
Arden Leigh
Jennifer Link
Mishka
Paul Morin
Steve Prinsen Zach Rose
Adam Rosina
Vanity Kills
Jillian Venters
Graphic Design
Logo Design
Melanie Beitel
Layout Design
Jennifer Link
Luke Copping
Josh Rutski
editor’s letter
�
2
mission statement
editorial
5 ...i f every day real l y wi l l be Hal l oween
Ji l l i an Venters of Gothi c Charm School
beauty
6 per mafrost
frost and gl oss l ooks for cool er seasons
12 tatters
beauty draped i n del i cate l ace
16 Cu29
anti quated and futuri sti c beauty pi cks for autumn
17 detai l s
gl ossy, smudgy, smoky eyes
media
18 The Ward
John Carpenter’s return to the bi g screen
19 ti me capsul e ani me i mpact
music
20 qui ck pi cks
Necro Faci l i ty, Juno Reactor, Washed Out, The Gothsi cl es, and more...
heavy red : 32
hani n el i as : 23
gothi c char m school : 5
xanthi a pi nk . pi nar el i as : 27 . 38 ruffl es . frost . pl ai d : 44 . 6 . 38
21 musi c revi ews
Cl an of Xymox, Com Trui se, Archi tect, Krystal System, and more...
23 seven deadl y questi ons
Hani n El i as
lifestyle
24 bl ack theorem
cutti ng through pop cul ture and soci ety at l arge
26 ask arden
advi ce on rel ati onshi p strategi es
27 the Pi nUp
Xanthi a Pi nk i n Gi rdl eBound
fashion
31 styl e
sal vaged decay
32 desi gner spotl i ght
Heavy Red
38 tartan
pl ai d, pattern, punk for fal l
44 hi de and seek
ruffl es, shadows, and i nnocence
54 must
uni sex shoul der bag
55 where to buy
3
contents
Photographer : Jenni fer Li nk
Fashi on Styl i st : Meagan Hendri ckson
Makeup : Andrea Losecco Hai r : Eri n Moser
Model : Agatka Let us know what you thi nk! Share wi th us your thoughts on the i ssue, current events, or whatever i s on your mi nd! email : edi tori al @auxi l i arymagazi ne.com
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, elec-
tronic or mechanical, without the permission in writting from the publisher, except small excerpts for review purposes. Submitted work, reviews, ads, and photo-
graphs are copyrighted by their respective owners and fall under previous declara-
tion. Copyright Auxiliary Magazine 2011.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY Strange as it may seem, there are online tutorials for how to shred tights. Even stranger, there are boutique brands of hosiery and leggings that come pre-shred-
ded. There are skulls on everything, high-end fashion houses are producing spike-
bedecked shoes and accessories, black nail polish became a neutral accent in the mainstream over half a decade ago, and there are hipsters wandering around in skeleton leggings, t-shirts adorned with black magic sigils, or upside down cross-
es. In other words, the dark look of goth/punk is not only in, it’s everywhere, all the time.
Which leaves clusters of goths raising our perfectly-drawn eyebrows in confusion. We’re used to the fashion industry turning its gaze to our shadow-clad selves every few seasons, and most of us wait with eager anticipation for the clearance sales, ready to snap up velvet frock coats and lace shirts at a discount.
But the notion that our particular dark tribe has not just been mined by the main-
stream, but that we’re merely another fluttering moth (albeit a nocturnal one) that’s been pinned under glass for every casual passer-by to dissect and study? At the risk of succumbing to a fit of, “But I’m a unique dark snowflake,” it’s a strange situation to be in.
Part of it, of course, is due to the internet. To many people, goth (and punk, steampunk, industrial, black metal, circus, neo-cabaret, choose your subculture) are just fast-flowering internet memes. Those flowers may have thorns, but they still can be admired and easily plucked by anyone with access to a search engine. It shouldn’t be a surprise to anyone that many of the major fashion brands (espe-
cially the ones specializing in “fast fashion”) have employees who watch blogs and online communities, always searching for something eye-catching that can be easily manufactured. (And if this does surprise you, you maybe should consider coming out from the rock you’ve been hiding under.)
Another part of it is the fact that goth has grown older. There are generations of black-clad spooksters around. Not only in the sense that there are countless fami-
lies out there who feel that Gomez and Morticia are idea parental role models (and rightly so!), but that in every group of youngsters, there are at least one or two who identify with Wednesday or Pugsley. Like it or not, we’ve become a demographic, and a fairly profitable one, at that.
I’ve always supported the times that some flavor of goth has become fashionable. Greater acceptance of the trappings and fripperies of the goth aesthetic can only mean that the goth subculture is becoming more accepted, right? Chanel releasing black lipstick and nail polish is a sign that pre-teen and teenaged gothlings won’t have to worry as much about being bullied, or about their parents not accepting their interests, right?
Alas, not so much, it seems. Many people are willing to dabble in fashionable darkness, but are still unnerved by those who remain interested in such things for longer than a fall fashion editorial. I find my reactions to the fashion tourists becoming a little more irrationally cranky as the years go by. It’s a reaction that I try to rein in, because who knows what will set off someone’s interest in goth or punk? Maybe that spiked and studded headband will be more than a seasonal affectation and, instead, prompt them to go exploring the music, movies, and lit-
erature that is the dark heart of goth. At least, this is what I tell myself when I see someone with an “ironic” t-shirt emblazoned with an oversized screen print of Siouxsie Sioux, instead of going over and demanding that they name more than three songs by her.
I suspect it’s the irony part that sets off the urge to crankily shake my parasol at the “kids today”. To me, goth isn’t about irony, or wearing iconography from horror movies because it’s so amusing and “edgy” (a word I have come to loathe). It’s about a sense of dark wonder, of whimsy, of whistling in the dark because you want to simultaneously ward off the monsters, and have them come find you and adopt you as one of their own. I suspect it’s a little difficult to look for the beauty and magic in all the dark and possibly gruesome corners of life if you’re also try-
ing to prove how unflappable and cool you are.
Yes, it’s useful to have easily-recognizable signifiers so we can recognize others from our self-made tribes, but using those differences to fuel an antagonistic “Us vs. Them”, “freaks vs. mundanes” mindset seems more like locking ourselves into a cage, instead of having fun. It’s one thing to feel like you’re part of a spooky-fun secret society, it’s another thing entirely to start acting eerily similar to the close-
minded “norms” we claim to be so ridiculed by.
So bring on the co-opting of goth fashion, I say. Make it so babybats and busy budget-minded goths can easily find black velvet and blood-red lipstick at chain stores across the world. Hell, I’ll even try to smother my irrational cranky reac-
tions to hipsters who sport Elvira t-shirts and hair ornaments made from animal skulls, yet still sneer at goths who look like they’ve escaped from a Victorian sé-
ance. (I’ll try, really I will.) If all of this means that finally, every day really will be Halloween, I’m all for it.
by Jillian Venters
EDI TORI AL
Jillian Venters is the mastermind behind the long-running “Gothic Charm School” advice column where she dishes out tips on gothic etiquette as The Lady of the Manners, and the author of Gothic Charm School: An Essential Guide For Goths And Those Who Love Them, her print guide intended to support different facets of goth, from parents of youths embracing the subculture to the elder goth looking for a refresher on the ways of goth today. Visit www.gothic-charm-school.com for more on her book and blog.
photographer : Libby Bulloff
5
The ideas and viewpoints of our readers and contributors published to voice an alternative perspective on current day society, topics, and events.
. . . if every day really will be
Halloween
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY AUXILIARY august/september 2011 THIS PAGE
On the eyes MAC Cosmetics Eyeshadow in Vanilla, Eyeshadow in Vibrant Grape, and Eye Kohl in Smoulder. On the cheeks MAC Cos-
metics Powder Blush in Tenderling and Loose Powder in Silver Dusk. On the lips MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Dark Side and Clear Lipglass.
OPPOSITE PAGE
On the eyes MAC Cosmetics Cream Color Base in Black, Gloss Tex-
ture, and Eyeshadow in White Frost. On the cheeks MAC Cosmetics Powder Blush in Dame and Cream Color Base in Luna. On the lips MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Violetta and Clear Lipglass.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
PERMAFROST
photographer Brent Leideritz
makeup artist Mishka
hair stylist Mishka
models Meluxine, Gracie, Jade, Mandi Lee, and Mishka
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 THIS PAGE
On the eyes MAC Cosmetics Fluidline Liner in Blacktrack and Chromaline in Basic Red. On the cheeks MAC Cosmetics Powder Blush in Sculpt and Cream Color Base in Luna. On the lips MAC Cosmetics Lipstick Russian Red and Clear Lipglass.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
THIS PAGE
On the eyes MAC Cosmetics Cream Color Base in Black, Eye-
shadow in Crystal Avalanche, and Glitter in 3D Silver. On the cheeks MAC Cosmetics Powder Blush in Pink Swoon and Mineralize Powder in Soft and Gentle. On the lips MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Candy Yum Yum and Clear Lipglass.
THIS PAGE
On the eyes MAC Cosmetics Cream Color Base in Black, Chromaline in Rich Purple, Eyeshadow in Carbon, and Gloss Texture. On the cheeks MAC Cosmetics Loose Powder in Silver Dusk and Pow-
der Blush in Peaches. On the lips MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Neon Orange and Clear Lipglass.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 june/july 2011 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE
On the eyes MAC Cosmetics Eyeshadow in Orange, Fluidline Eyeliner in Blacktrack, and Paint Pot in Painterly. On the cheeks MAC Cosmetics Cream Color Base in Hush and Powder Blush in Melba. On the lips MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Cyber and Clear Lipglass.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
THIS PAGE
Black Velvet Evil Eye Neck-
lace by Slipshod Sally. On the eyes SKS Cosmetics Loose Eye Color in Red Eyed Fly, Phoenix, and Black Rose.
THIS PAGE
Vintage white lace. On the eyes SKS Cosmetics Loose Eye Color in Red Eyed Fly, Phoenix, and Black Rose.
photographer H. James Hoff
makeup artist LaDonna Stein
model Kaia Bellanca
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
june/july 2011 AUXILIARY THIS PAGE
Moth Lace Collar by Slipshod Sally. On the eyes SKS Cosmetics Loose Eye Color in Red Eyed Fly, Phoenix, and Black Rose.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 THIS PAGE
Vintage black lace. On the eyes SKS Cosmetics Loose Eye Color in Red Eyed Fly, Phoenix, and Black Rose. august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
by Vanity Kills
BEAUTY
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1 Love utilitarian rivet girl fashions but hate being compared to one of the boys? Trade in your gender neutral messenger bag for the Steampunk Industria Chic Steel and Black Leather Handbag by Moda Industria. This tough-girl approved tote successfully marries straightforwardly streamlined design with ornate detail-
ing, immortalized in rusted metal. available at www.modaindustria.com $80
2 Add elemental value to your grooming arsenal with SPI’s Copper Oval Paddle Brush. available at www.ulta.com $13
3 & 4 For that newly minted penny shine, dab a semi-matte frosted copper lipstick (try Nars Lipstick in Hot Voodoo) onto the center of your mouth, carefully pull-
ing the color out toward the corners. Follow with a thin layer of sparkly sheer gloss (like Make Up For Ever Lab Shine Lip Gloss in Diamond Collection D18). available at www.sephora.com $24 & $18
5 Snag the “rusted” nail look, minus the looming threat of tetanus, with the help of Revlon Nail Enamel in Copper Penny. Two coats of this burnished varnish will undoubtedly look sick (sans actually making you ill) coupled with a button down leopard print cardigan and the remains of your tan. available at www.ulta.
com $5
6 Curious to try steampunk-inspired looks, but not exactly down with introduc-
ing brown into your typically vibrant makeup palette? Lining your upper lashline with a creamy copper pencil (such as Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Lucky) is a great way to rev your beauty steam-engine without using earth tones. available at www.sephora.com $18
7 Gearing up for your yearly round of Sci-Fi conventions? Let it be known that nothing accompanies a Slave Leia metal bikini quite like a coat of NYX Cosmet-
ics Single Eye Shadow in ES16 Copper meticulously applied onto your lids. available at www.nyxcosmetics.com $5
Pre-fall is the perfect time to transition into cool-weather copper. Straddling the line between antiquated and futuristic, brassy and restrained, this multifaceted, rich, autumnal hue is surely destined to smolder like a Labor Day bonfire. Take an adventurous leaf out of a steampunk tome and embrace full-on molten metal on eyes and lips for all over clockwork doll appeal. Or travel a slightly tamer route by the way of an effortlessly chic, yet still plenty glamour packed, foiled manicure. As you bid summer’s sizzle adieu, get a head start on sweater season in a shade that’s worth its atomic weight in… copper.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 Cu29
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DETAILS
author Mishka
photographer Brent Leideritz
makeup artist, hair stylist, and fashion stylist Mishka
model Gracie
BEAUTY
the TREND : glossy, smudgy, smoky eyes
A regular on the runway, but too difficult to master in real life? Not with the right application and products. The key to pull it off is in the details.
The first trick is to start with an eyeshadow primer, this will prep your lids and give the creams and gloss-
es something to stick to. To get the glossy texture on the lids, use creams rather than powders in sooty, dark colors (MAC’s Cream Color Bases are fab and come in a large range of colors) and apply with your fingers. Layer the cream to achieve depth, keeping the lid dark and sultry. Finish by applying a lighter, silvery shade in the inner corners to counter balance the dark tones, make sure you blend the two colors together seamlessly.
With a glossy smoky eye, the skin needs to be flawless but not overly powdered. Brush a sculpting powder (in a taupe or tan color) right under the cheekbones for depth and use a slightly peachy blush on the ap-
ples of the cheeks.
Finish off the look with a matte nude lip and say hello to a sexy modern Bridgette Bardot.
It seems appropriate to refer to Australian makeup artist Mishka as a painter, an artisan of human skin. Known throughout Australian and abroad for her unique point of view and attention to detail, Mishka’s interest in makeup artistry that lead to her profes-
sional training and certification at the Media Makeup Academy came from an early age love of drama, acting, and film. With experience as a MAC makeup artist, Mishka is now co-owner of Twenty Four b and owner of Makeup by Mishka.
THIS PAGE
On the eyes MAC Cosmetics Cream Color Base in Black, Cream Color Base in Luna, Eye Kohl in Smolder, Gloss Texture, and Zoomlash Black Mascara. On the cheeks MAC Cosmetics Powder Blush in Sculpt and Emphasize. On the lips MAC Cosmetics Lipstick in Myth.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY MEDI A
he was forced into unofficial semi-retirement. But after some long overdue critical re-evaluation and the explosion of his cult fan base, Carpenter was again able to muster the funds necessary to mount a theatrical release. Thus we come to The Ward, Carpenter’s first foray into straight horror since Halloween. In watching it, I was possessed of an emotion no other Carpenter film had provoked in me: Boredom.
The film opens in 1966, and our heroine, Kristen (Amber Heard) has been institutionalized for com-
mitting arson on an empty a barn for no discernable reason. At the psychiatric hospital, she’s placed in a ward with other young girls, Iris (Lyndsy Fon-
seca), Sarah (Danielle Panabaker), Emily (Mamie Gummer) and Zoey (Laura Leigh), who run the gamut from slightly disturbed to developmentally backward and all the way on to full-blown fuck-
ing Martian. Kristen is placed under the care of the kindly Dr. Stringer (Jared Harris), whose methods are considered controversial yet groundbreaking (in a 1960’s psych ward, this translates roughly as “slightly less torture than usual”). Spooky go-
ings-on ensue, a j-horror look-a-like ghost starts bumping off the girls off at 20-minute intervals as Kristen attempts to get to the bottom of things and/
by Adam Rosina
18
Is The Ward, John Carpenter’s first foray into straight horror since Halloween, a triumphant return to the big screen or simply horror mediocrity?
or escape, all before wrapping-up with a surprise twist! A twist takes you from scratching your head to groaning in mental agony in the span of a minute. The first sign that reads “Trouble Ahead” is a scene pretty early on, where the girls, after finally cozying up to Kristen a bit, slap on a record and do a bit of dancing! It seems so out of place, but if you’d swapped out the period song used here for “Ain’t No Mountain High Enough”, this scene would have been right at home in any 90s chick flick. These girls are absolutely clear on the fact that there’s a killer fucking ghost on the loose, yet all they wanna do is giggle and do the goddamn jitterbug?? If this was an attempt at humor on Carpenter’s part, it didn’t pan out. it’s just sad. And then, at the very end, Carpenter gives you one final scare... the exact same one he closed out Prince of Darkness with! But all of this, every last bit of it, I MIGHT be able to swallow if not for one fact: John Carpenter did not score this movie. I love, not “like”, “like-like”, or “like more than a friend” his music, but outright love it. Former Christopher Young (Hellraiser) protégée Mark Kilian doesn’t do a bad job here, but by Crom, I came here to listen to the kind of rockin’ snyth-heavy soundtrack that only Carpen-
ter can deliver! You’d think, with recent films like Planet Terror, Attack the Block, and Hobo with a Shotgun composing their scores as explicit love let-
ters to Carpenter’s work, he’d take the hint that his music has newfound street cred and throw some in this flick. This movie was less than enjoyable to watch, but this review just plain fucking hurts to write. I wanted to tell all of you that The Ward marks John Carpenter’s triumphant return to big screen horror, but I’m not gonna sugar coat it out of reverence for his back catalogue. Indeed, I’m compelled to treat this film harsher than had some unknown director’s name had been attached to it. And it’s not like it could be argued that he’s slipping in his old age. The telefilms he directed for Mick Garris’ Masters of Horror series (Cigarette Burns and Pro-Life) just a few years ago were classic Carpenter. I would have much rather seen either of those given a bigger budget, extended runtime, and theatrical release than this contrived, hopelessly outdated ghost story. I understand that Carpenter doesn’t wanna rock the boat too much, after basing a career on doing just that and suffering for it, but this film is so bland and uninteresting it’s an insult to his fans and his own legacy. I can endure his more jumbled, incoherent offerings. Actually, “endure” isn’t really the right word, as some of my favorite Carpenter films are his ambitious, uneven “failures”. But what I won’t stand for is mediocrity, and neither should he. WARD
Since we’ve been over this before, I’ll make it quick: I love John Carpenter. You know it. I know it. God, the Devil and Siddhartha fucking Gautama know it. Eas-
ily one of the most respected, influential, re-imagined (there’s been no less than three remakes of his work, with at least two new ones in the pipeline right now) and imitated fantasists in filmmaking, In his prime (the late 70s to the early-to-mid 80s), Carpenter was a financial cash cow, though not exactly immune to critical scorn over his films� violent content. Sadly, the tides began to turn with the release of The Thing and Big Trouble in Little China, films that were panned by critics (viciously) and moviegoers. Carpenter, undeterred, unleashed a string of films (Prince of Darkness, They Live, In the Mouth of Madness) that further discarded traditional notions of horror and took on such intellectually robust themes as so-
cial control, quantum physics, and consensus reality, all to the detriment of his box office grosses and the confidence of his financial backers. It didn’t help that the man had a habit of losing focus and letting his films get away from him, turn-
ing them into confused messes. Thought-provokingly watchable messes, but con-
founding enough to convince viewers to cease drinking the Kool-Aid by the late 90s. By 2001, the director had so much trouble securing funding for his films that Crazy broads dancing in the midst of supernatural peril aside, another thing I gotta take issue with is the scares, or lack thereof. It’s been established I’m no fan of jump scares. They seem like a cheap trick in absence of any real suspenseful atmo-
sphere and blah blah blah... you’ve heard all this before, I trust? Ok, well the thing of it is, as little as I respect the technique, I’m usually jumpier than a coke-head with a nervous disorder, so they’re pretty effective at getting a purely physical re-
action outta me. This movie assaulted me with a bevy of �em, and didn’t generate so much as a flinch. None of this is helped by the tired ghost design, which is just Sadako from Ringu, twice removed and a little worse for the wear in the decomp department. Ripping off J-horror hasn’t been trendy since, fuck, I dunno. I got off the bus after Gothika pulled similar crap (just an awful film, in case you haven’t seen it) and never looked back. And then there’s that freaking twist. When the big reveal happens, you go through some kind of twisted mockery of the stages of grief. First, mild puzzlement. Then, acceptance and momentary reconsideration of the weak film that preceded it. Finally, violent rejection with a vocal “Fuck this!”, realizing it’s merely a variation on the Fight Club twist. Audiences were reacting with mild annoyance when it was trotted out again in Haute Tension. At this point, THE
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 MEDI A
Neon Genesi s Evangel i on
Hi deaki Anno
1995-1996 / Ani me Seri es
What begi ns as a seemi ngl y t ypi cal mecha ani me ul t i mat el y t ransforms i nt o one of t he most i coni c t i t l es i n ani mat i on. Neon Gen-
esi s Evangel i on i s produced by St udi o Gai -
nax and creat ed by Hi deaki Anno. Ai ri ng i n 1995-1996 i t has si nce spawned a number of i mi t at ors i ncl udi ng seri es Rahxephon and Eu-
reka Seven. It s deepl y root ed psychol ogi cal, t heol ogi cal, and phi l osophi cal t hemes put i t a st ep above many ot her popul ar seri al s and gi ves t he seri es i t s pl ace as a mast erpi ece.
Berserk
Kent aro Mi ura
1989 / Manga
A modern epi c set i n a medi eval l andscape, Berserk fol l ows t he ever resi l i ent Gut s t hrough hi s l i fe of horri fic t ri al s i n hi s quest for revenge. Hardl y an ori gi nal concept, one may wonder what set s t hi s work apart from t oday’s sl ew of Shonen Jump cl one heroes. Berserk di ffers from t he t ypi cal i n i t s ri ch i magery t hat l ooks more l i ke a pai nt i ng t han a manga. Furt her separat i ng i t i s t he excruci-
at i ng amount of at t ent i on gi ven t o t he con-
cept of mort al i t y and t he effect s i t has on t he charact ers.
Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind
Hayao Miyazaki
1984 / Anime Film
Director Hayao Miyazaki’s (Spirited Away, Princess Mononoke) name is a hallmark of classics of artistic and innovative anime. Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, released in 1984, is just one of the fabulous classics he has created that can be appreciated by both the young and old. It is hard to imagine that the film was produced almost thirty years ago. The film’s level of animation stands the test of time and rivals many of the produc-
tions released today.
Perfect Blue
Satoshi Kon
1997 / Anime Film
Satoshi Kon’s debut as a director does not disappoint. Introducing some of what would later become Kon’s central themes of surre-
alism and psychosis, Perfect Blue portrays a vastly complex and cerebral world. Fans of his more recent works, Paprika and Para-
noia Agent, will recognize this as a brilliant 1997 introduction into Kon’s imaginative universe.
Hiten Yoshitaka Amano 1989 / Art Book
From Final Fantasy fame, Yoshitaka Amano is not your typical anime artist. His first art book Hiten, released in 1989, introduces the world to his fantasy landscapes and charac-
ters that have since mystified millions. Its pages are filled with beautiful images of what can only be described as mythical, seem-
ingly from another world. Not unknown to the anime world Amano has been art director and producer of a number of works including Gatchaman and Angel’s Egg. Tekkonkinkreet
Michael Arias
2006 / Anime Film
Produced only five years ago, Tekkonkinkreet may not seem like a title one would consider time capsule worthy. Despite its recent re-
lease, however, this gem seems to have faded into obscurity. Set in the megalopolis, Treasure Town, where children can mysteri-
ously fly, the film follows two boys, Black and White, through their childhood as home-
less malcontents. The film is animated in a unique and playful style that fits in perfectly with the characters yet artfully ironic when one considers the seriousness of the plot. A quick rewind to unearth those media artifacts that may have slipped through the cracks of your radar but should not be missed.
Anime and manga are more than just magical girls, guys with over nine thousand power levels, and animals that fit inside a ball sometimes 1/100th of their size. It is a real artistic medium that branches out from the confines of childhood reverie and extends into adulthood. This time capsule centers on some classics of the medium whose provocative themes and stunning visuals have kept millions interested well after the time when Saturday morning cartoons hold appeal.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY 19
Anime Impact
by Aaron Fleisher
The Gothsicles
- Industrialites & Magic
released by WTII on 9 August 2011 genre : EBM
The Gothsicles are in a world of their own. Armed with witty lyrics and stomping beats they descend upon the scene once again with Industrialights & Magic. If you didn’t find the 2009 release Sega Lugosi’s Dead a hilarious romp then this release is most definitely not for you. Industialites & Magic is less acceptable then the previous release as most of the references are obscure. The album does have some relatable songs, like “Drunk Cuts” which is about being injured well intoxicated and “Baby Je-
sus vs. Baby Genius”. While it’s humourous at parts, the album falls short of living up to Sega Lugosi’s Dead. 6/10 - MK
quick picks
Femme Fatality - That’s It, That’s It
released by Stickfigure Recordings on 26 July 2011
genre : electo
Femme Fatality are back with That’s It, That’s It, a six track EP that’s full of energetic electo and is a solid addition to their catalog. I embrace this EP as the 2008 release of One’s Not Enough was played so much in my household that I can swear it is im-
printed on my soul, unregretably so. The boys toned down their sound slightly from the 2008 album, but it’s like going from cocain to redbull vodkas, the fun intensity is still there, just a little bit under control. Five of the songs are more than danceable and should be played at all clubs and house parties around the world to pump some fun into the crowds. My only complaint is that it’s only an EP and hope-
fully this isn’t it. 7/10 - MK
MUSI C
Ankl ebi ter - Queue
rel eased by Tympani k Audi o on 24 May 2011
genre : downt empo, IDM
Fol l owi ng up l ast year ’s, I Wi l l Wai t, Ankl ebi t er re-
t urns wi t h t he remi x al bum Queue. Feat uri ng t wo new songs from Ankl ebi t er and ni ne remi xes from art i st s l i ke Dryft, Keef Baker, and Access To Ara-
saka. I Wi l l Wai t i s ri ch i n subt l et y and nuance and t he remi xers don’t l oose si ght of t hat as t hey ret hi nk t he t racks and t he t wi st i ng mel anchol y mel odi es t hat made t he ori gi nal mat eri al engagi ng are st i l l i n pl ace. Because t he remi xers al l have a si mi l ar down-
t empo at t i t ude as Ankl ebi t er t he remi xes are not genre shi ft i ng and no one offers a i dent i t y chang-
i ng makeover, but each i s aware of t he mat eri al t hey st art ed wi t h and has bent i t t o t hei r own t hi nki ng very wel l. 8/10 - AA
Juno React or - I nsi de The Reactor
rel eased by Met ropol i s Records on 12 Jul y 2011
genre : Goa t rance
Juno React or ’s Ben Wat ki ns has put t oget her a re-
mi x al bum spanni ng t he band’s whol e cat al og. Ten remi xes are from ot her producers and one l ost mi x i s from Juno React or t hemsel ves. The feat ured remi x-
ers aren’t a who’s who of t he current hot t est DJs and chart t oppi ng remi xers, whi ch woul d probabl y be an easy t ask for someone wi t h Juno React or ’s name rec-
ogni t i on t o l and. Inst ead i t feel s l i ke every remi xer has been careful l y t hought out and each mi x fit s i nt o t he band’s l arger cat al og perfect l y. There are t ri bal breaks, psy & Goa t rance, and even a Bol l ywood dub mi x. Al l t he t racks are di fferent facet s of Juno React or ’s cl assi c mat eri al but each i s very aware of t he source mat eri al and i t s spi ri t. 8/10 - AA
Washed Out - Wi thi n and Wi thout
re-
l eased by Sub Pop on 11 Jul y 2011
genre : i ndi e el ect roni c, dream pop The good: It sounds l i ke Si gur Ros mi xed wi t h Ul -
ri ch Schnauss; dreamy, spacey, float i ng-on-cl ouds, and st oned out of your mi nd el ect roni c musi c wi t h et hereal vocal s drenched i n reverb, perfect for occa-
si ons l i ke fal l i ng i n l ove or maki ng a sl ow mot i on bl ack and whi t e fil m about a bi ke t i re rol l i ng down t he st reet (Bonus: Naught y cover desi gn of di srobed coupl e get t i ng i t on al so provi des a suggest ed use). The bad: It ’s been done before, and al t hough t hat i sn’t bad (i n fact, i t ’s pret t y good at what i t ai ms t o do), i t doesn’t get poi nt s for ori gi nal i t y. The ugl y: Pi t chfork recent l y gave i t a good revi ew. 6/10 - PM
musi c revi ews
21
MUSI C
Cl an of Xymox - Darkest Hour rel eased by Met ropol i s Records on 24 May 2011
dat a : 13t h al bum . 10 t racks . 51:42 run t i me . www.cl anofxymox.com
revi ewed by : Steve Pri nsen aka DJ Dark-
wave genre : got hi c rock, darkwave
In t he l at e 80s and very earl y 90s Cl an of Xy-
mox/Xymox where one of my t op five bands, i n fact Depeche Mode was probabl y t he onl y band t hat consi st ent l y out ranked t hem i n my adorat i on duri ng t hat peri od. However by t he mi d 90s i t began t o feel as i f t hey had l ost fo-
cus and t hei r subsequent rel eases j ust di dn’t seem t o have t hat same spark I had come t o expect from t hem. There were a few good t racks here and t here but not hi ng t o ri val ei t her t hei r earl y experi ment al gems or t hei r l at e 80s synt h-pop geni us. Event ual l y I l ost i nt erest, but I cont i nued t o check t hei r new rel eases hopi ng t o hear a ret urn t o form. Wi t h t he rel ease of In Love We Trust i n 2009 I final l y st art ed t o feel t hat t hey were get t i ng back t o a pl ace I coul d respect. So when Darkest Hour was rel eased i n May I was exci t ed Com Trui se - Gal acti c Mel t
rel eased by Ghost l y Int ernat i onal on 5 Jul y 2011
dat a : 2nd al bum . 10 t racks . 43:00 run t i me . www.comt rui se.com
revi ewed by : Paul Mori n genre : el ect roni ca, i ndi e el ect roni c
In t he l at e 70s/earl y 80s, a l ot of promi ses were made i n movi es and on TV about t he fut ure of t he worl d, about t he rol e of comput-
ers, and about t he rapi d advances of t echnol-
ogy and t he ut opi as and dyst opi as i t woul d creat e (so much for t he ri se of Skynet ). Earl y pi oneers of el ect roni c musi c t ook t hose no-
t i ons and t he col d, pri mi t i ve sounds of synt hs and drum machi nes, and i nst ead of creat i ng anyt hi ng remot el y organi c, pushed t he l i mi t s of t he i norgani c. Com Trui se harkens back t o t hat age, of t he st range prom-
i ses of t he fut ure we recei ved from synt hpop, kraut rock and t he cl ub-t hump of Euro-di sco and post -di sco (t hi nk “Every Day i s Hal l oween” by Mi ni st ry or “Don’t You Want Me” by The Human League). Most songs are based around a si mpl e keyboard arpeggi o t hat l oops t hrough t he song, and t he drum machi nes and synt hs are set t o del i berat el y emul at e t he gl ory days of t he 80s. Many of t he pat t ers reveal a subt l e cl everness t o t hem; t hi s i sn’t exact l y musi c t hat coul d have been made i n 1980 (i t get s a l i t t l e “crazy” at t i mes and approaches IDM or drum n bass), and whi l e t he songs are dance floor fri endl y and funky, t he mel odi es are l i ght enough t o al most be consi dered fluff. To put i t anot her way, t hi s sounds l i ke t he musi c of t he fut ure as expressed wi t h t he i nst rument s and i deas of t he past i n t he hands of an art i st of t he present. In t he end, because i t ’s al l i nst rument al, t hi s al bum i s great background musi c, i deal for ret ro 80s fans and fant asi es or l at e ni ght t ri ps l ooki ng for ol d arcade games t hat never act ual l y exi st ed.
recommended tracks : VHS Sex, Fl i ght wave, Cat hode Gi rl s
i f you l i ke you may l i ke : Twi n Shadow, Daft Punk, Met ro Area
grade : overal l 7 - musi c 7 - recordi ng qual i t y 10
t o gi ve i t a l i st en, hopi ng t hey had cont i nued t o make progress down a rewardi ng new pat h. Regret t abl y, I was di sappoi nt ed once agai n. True t o i t s t i t l e, t hi s i s a very dark broodi ng al bum, unfort unat el y, i nst ead of bei ng a great exampl e of got hi c rock at i t s best, most of i t j ust sounds dreary and a bi t whi ny. There’s defi-
ni t el y a l ot of heart ache here but i t doesn’t seem t o do much, i t ’s j ust sort of t here. Thi s t ype of al bum shoul d be cat hart i c, i t shoul d drag you ki cki ng and screami ng t hrough a mi nefiel d of broken emot i onal baggage, i f onl y t o prove t o you t hat you can emerge from i t rel at i vel y unscat hed. But t hi s di dn’t do t hat for me. There’s cert ai nl y not hi ng overt l y wrong here, but t here doesn’t seem t o be much of a poi nt t o any of i t ei t her. There’s j ust not much new here and at one poi nt I wondered i f I was l i st eni ng t o a col l ect i on of rej ect ed t racks from t he mi d 90s. Thi s i s not t er-
ri bl e, I was j ust expect i ng and hopi ng for so much more. recommended tracks : Del et e, Dream of Fool s i f you l i ke you may l i ke : The Cruxshadows, The Bi rt hday Massacre
grade : overal l 5 - musi c 6 - l yri cs 5 - recordi ng qual i t y 6
Hani n El i as - Get I t Back
rel eased by Rust bl ade on 7 June 2011
dat a : 4t h al bum . 11 t racks . 40:36 run t i me . www.hani nel i as.com
revi ewed by : Aaron Andrews genre : di gi t al hardcore, dance rock, el ect ro
A foundi ng and now former member of At ari Teenage Ri ot, Hani n El i as has ret urned from her Paci fic Isl and ret i rement t o t ake anot her shot at t he worl d. Get It Back i s her fourt h sol o al bum and on i t we find her t ryi ng on new sounds and met hods as she col l aborat es wi t h a number of di fferent art i st s from around t he worl d. Get It Back i s a t ri p t hrough a few sounds and moods t hat doesn’t cl i ng t o t he precedent set by Hani n’s previ ous work wi t h Di gi t al Hardcore Records. There i s no escapi ng t he i nfluence of her work wi t h At ari Teenage Ri ot and her ri ot grrrl energy, i t ’s st i l l openl y represent ed here i n t he songs “Axi s Shi ft i ng” and “Do You Know!!!”, i t ’s i mpossi bl e t o deny t he i n-
t ensi t y of t hat ori gi n i s t he backbone of al l t hi s mat eri al. However i n many pl aces duri ng t he al bum she st eps back from t he al l out assaul t t hat i s di gi t al hardcore and del i vers t hought out vocal performances t o accompany musi c t hat draws i nflu-
ences not j ust from her previ ous work but al so from gri me, dubst ep, i ndust ri al, el ect ro, and even dark wave (on t he t rack “Mel ancol i a”). The vari et y of t he al bum wi l l make i t hard t o embrace for t hose who are l ooki ng for anot her chapt er of harsh musi c brandi shi ng pol i t i cal agenda and soci al cont empt but when approached wi t h a more open mi nd t he vari et y serves t o spot l i ght Hani n as an art i st wi t h many i n-
fluences and l oves. Get It Back i s a chance t o get t o know t hi s art i st past t he harsh no nonsense facade we’ve al l seen for so l ong.
recommended tracks : Get It Back, Dead Eyes, Do You Know!!!
i f you l i ke you may l i ke : At ari Teenage Ri ot, Peaches
grade : overal l 7 - musi c 7 - l yri cs 6 - recordi ng qual i t y 8
august/sept ember 2011 AUXI LI ARY Necro Faci l i ty
- Wi nter mute
rel eased by Art offact Records on 7 June 2011
genre : el ect ro-i ndust ri al
Necro Faci l i t y has been t he buzz word i n t he un-
dergound si nce t he rel ease of Wi nt ermut e. Taki ng gi gant i c st eps forword from t hei r previ ous rel eases, Wi nt ermut e i s t he zeni t h of t hei r di scography. The al bum has a heavy feel t o i t but t here i s a pop nat ure t o i t maki ng i t more accessabl e t o t he non-i ndust ri al musi c l i st ener. The songs are wel l composed, deep wi t h compl ex l ayers, and t he cl ear vocal s al l ow t he l yri cs t o be di gest ed. Mul t i pl e musi cal i nfluences are present t hroughout t he al bum from drum n bass t o cl assi c EBM gi vi ng a vari et y t o keep your at t ent i on. It ’s been a l ong t i me si nce I used t he repeat but t on on my musi c pl ayer and Wi nt ermut e finds me cl i cki ng i t every t i me. 9/10 - MK
MUSI C
Former member of Atari Teenage Riot, Hanin Elias revels how she sins.
interview by Mike Kieffer
23
What would your reaction be to a fan getting plastic surgery to look exactly like you? Would you consider that self love?
Hanin Elias : I would be horrified! Plastic surgery already gives me shivers of hor-
ror when I see someone who had done it. I think you always see it and it just makes the person look very unsure and a poor victim of superficial narcissism and a fear of getting old is something I don’t have and I wish no one would have it. I would begin to doubt if the people really get my messages right... You enter a food eating competition, what food would you choose to rule over and become the champion? HE : I would choose maybe raspberries, I can eat tons of them! If you could have any one thing (object or event) in the world, what would want? HE : A moneyless world without banks and greed! What is the most embarrassing pick up that has been used on you and that you’ve used on someone? HE : �Hey, do you wanna have coffee somewhere someday?’ And from me… �I wonder how big it is...’
If you had to review your new album Get It Back, what would you say about it?
HE : Get It Back! Hanin Elias is back with a new album after five years of silence (she lived on a small isolated island in the South Pacific.) The new album is as varied as you can imagine, it just won’t fit into a box but will burst the one you are in! Hanin worked with collaborators all over the world and the result is an amazing one! Styles from electro hop, dark witchy pop, rockstep, and digital hardcore. Industrial and electronic melt into each other and Elias’ lyrics about hu-
man exploitation of the planet, showinism, and deep melancholia gives all a sense! [winks] The album is euphoric, deep, and powerful! She is back and there is no doubt about it! [smiles]
You suddenly have hundreds of servants catering to your every worldly need. What do you do with your new found freedom? HE : I would feel embarrassed and couldn’t enjoy it probably. But if all these people do it freely and would enjoy being my servants I would do more music and leave the whole technical and bureaucratic stuff to them... A world wide revolution starts in your name and the world police force captures you on a televised event, what are your final words? HE : �Oh see the birds… they don’t seed, they don’t harvest... and still they have everything they need!’ And probably… �Start the riot! We must go free! Now is the time!’
Former founding member of Atari Teenage Riot, Hanin Elias is back with the new solo album Get It Back! out on Rustblade. 22
music reviews
MUSI C
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY Architect - Upload Select Remix & Upload Select Remix.2
released by Hymen Records on 12 July 2011
data : 6th & 7th albums . 26 tracks . 142:58 run time . www.architect-music.com
reviewed by : Aaron Andrews genre : IDM
Architect is the project that, the seemingly always busy, Daniel Myer gets to stretch his thinking out and try sounds different from his various EBM projects. Last year’s Consume Adapt Create was an IDM album steeped in heavy drum n bass influences. This year’s re-
mix companion is comprised of two releases, Upload Select Remix and Upload Select Re-
mix.2. These releases step back from the original influences and allow a variety of different takes on the material with remixes by 26 different artists such as Sten-
deck, End.User, Hecq, Subheim, Dryft, Andre Winter, Synnack, and Brazda Lui Novac. The sounds presented here span melodic electronica, tech house, and even some darker downtempo reflections of drum n bass and dubstep. The remixes are all good, unsurprisingly so, as there are many talented contributors whose unique visions make each rework great on their own merit. With multiple listens I found that while there are a variety of personalities to the songs, there is one universal mood tying them together. The downtempo and ambient aspects of the original tracks seem to be pulled to the forefront and ends up being all that’s represented. What made Consume Adapt Create a great album was its juggling of laid back and in your face songs and I was dying for the mixes by End.User and Hecq to turn up the intensity of the originals, but they fell short of my expectations. All in all these are good companions to an incredible album but they fall a little short of equaling it.recommended tracks : Pure (Andr_ Winter Remix), The Beauty And The Beat (The_Empath Remix)
if you like you may like : Orphx, Mnemonic, Karsten Pflum
grade : overall 7 - music 7 - recording quality 9
John Maus - We Must Become the Pitiless Censors of Ourselves
released by Ribbon Music on 28 June 2011
data : 3rd album . 11 tracks . 31:52 run time . www.mausspace.com
reviewed by : Paul Morin genre : indie, experimental
Somewhere between Joy Division, Suicide, and the theme from Knight Rider, there is the music of John Maus. Censors sounds like a lost gem of the 80s, but without any of the polish or finished production of that decade; it sounds more like a 4-track cassette tape that was dropped into a dumpster and recov-
ered years later. Everything is buried in the mix, and the production decisions make this recording not so much “lo-fi” as de-
liberately damaged and unfinished, and those imperfections are what makes this whole shebang really interesting and separates it from a million other musicians working with the same retro parameters. Tape hiss and other “mistakes” are left in. The songs end abruptly. A bass line is flubbed and missing a few notes. And Maus’ baritone voice, which draws immediate comparisons to the likes of Ian Curtis or Nick Cave, was apparently recorded at the bottom of a deep well with enough delay and reverb to make the members of Pink Floyd blush. All of this is mixed with a schizophrenic genre-bending of tracks moving from languid and narcotic to bouncy and goofy. Fortunately, since the songs clock in at between 2 and 4 min-
utes, if you get bored with one, the next is on the way. It’s tough to nail down and will leave a lot of listeners scratching their heads as to the intention and aesthetic merits, but as a whole the album holds up surprisingly well on repeated listens and its best moments are downright brilliant.
recommended tracks : Believer, …And the Rain, Cop Killer
if you like you may like : Joy Division, Ariel Pink’s Haunted Graffiti, Suicide
grade : overall 8 - music 8 - lyrics 6 - recording quality 1
Krystal System - Nuclear
released by Alfa Matrix on 17 June 2011
data : 2nd album . 14 tracks . 54:34 run time . www.krystal-system.com
reviewed by : Mike Kieffer genre : electro rock
I would like to thank France for giving us Krystal System. This male female duo pro-
vides plenty of grinding guitar, slick bass lines, crashing drums, and synths. Does that formula sound familiar? Well unlike your typical hometown band, Krystal System knows how to use the formula to get maxi-
mum results. There are many familiar sounds to keep your brain active as you try and put a finger on what a particular one is, from surfer guitars, to KMDFM riffs. The majority of the lyrics are in English although there are a few sung in their native tongue, but for the non-French speak-
ing listener it doesn’t pull away from the enjoyment they bring. Bonnie does the majority of the vocal duties and while her accent is a little hard to understand at times, it is infectiously adorable and makes me want to squeeze her to death, although I feel she would give me a quick gut shot if I ever moved in. Seven also contributes vocals, mostly backup, but on a few songs he is the lead and he delivers a fantastic performance which stands amongst the best male vocals in the genre. It wouldn’t surprise me to hear Nuclear out at the clubs, typically the songs have a strong 4-4 beat that could be included if the DJ starts to get into a heavy set. Nuclear keeps growing on me the more I listen to it, it is the perfect album to blast at full volume with your air guitar in hand running around the house without a care in the world. recommended tracks : World is Calling, Nuclear Winter
if you like you may like : I:Scintilla, Imperative Reaction
grade : overall 8 - music 7 - lyrics 8 - recording quality 8
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 LI FESTYLE
DISCLAIMER: Li ke a hai rdryer manuf act urer bei ng f orced t o i ncl ude a warni ng l abel i nst ruct i ng t he i nevi t abl e i di ot consumer t o not t ake t hei r product i nt o t he bat ht ub, I am compel l ed t o i ncl ude some f orewarni ng. Thi s i s a work of sat i re, and i f you, t he reader, are t oo st upi d t o get t hat, wal k away now, because I have no t i me f or your hol i er-t han-t hou out rage or whi t e l i beral gui l t. Furt hermore, I i mpl ore my LBGT readers t o underst and t he j oke i s not on you, but rat her your oppressors. To anyone st i l l readi ng (i.e. t hose wi t h a sense of humor and at l east hal f a brai n), enj oy.
On June 24, 2011, a day t hat wi l l l i ve i n i nfamy, t he New York St at e l egi sl at ure, i n ut t er defiance of God’s l aw and i t s’ domi ni on on eart h, passed t he Marri age Equal i t y Act, grant i ng homosexual s t he ri ght t o marry. There was ampl e warni ng of t he di re consequences t hat woul d befal l us i f we dared break our covenant wi t h t he Lord. The rel i gi ous l eaders, conservat i ve pol i t i ci ans and ot her si mi l arl y wi se men di d everyt hi ng i n t hei r power t o prevent i t, but i n t he end, man’s pri de and arrogance won out. But al l t he omi nous predi ct i ons of t he comi ng cat acl ysm were i ndeed wrong. What ensued was not as mi nd-rendi ngl y t erri bl e as we had been warned agai nst. It was much, much worse. The word was out, and i n an i nst ant, everyt hi ng became fabul ous. Apocal ypt i cal l y fabul ous.
The gays t hrew off t he l ast vest i ges of normal cy t hat t hey had rel uct ant l y worn and revel ed i n t hei r subhuman perversi on. They l eft t he t ea rooms and bat h houses, and t ook t o commi t t i ng hei nous, foami ng-at -t he-mout h buggery i n t he st reet s, i n ful l vi ew of decent Chri st i an eyes. And t hen, no l onger cont ent wi t h mere gay-on-gay forni cat i on, t hey t urned on us. It was t hen t hat we l earned bei ng gay wasn’t merel y a choi ce; i t was a di sease.
Rovi ng packs of gays began t o choke t he st reet s wi t h t hei r numbers. Runni ng on al l fours i n a best i al manner, t hey pounced from person t o person, each vi c-
t i m buckl i ng under t he force of t he i mpact. Thei r prey i ncapaci t at ed, t he rut t i ng commenced wi t h a demoni c fury. Fi ni shed, t hey l eapt on t o t he next warm, God-
feari ng, het erosexual body, wi t h t hei r previ ous vi ct i ms scurryi ng off i nt o t he ni ght t o do as had been done t o t hem, t he spread of t hei r cont agi on assured. The hi pst ers fel l first, t hei r frai l bodi es provi di ng t hem l i t t l e st rengt h t o fend off t hei r at t ack-
ers. The gui dos were spared, t hei r creat i ne-enhanced bul k and i mmacul at e spray t ans i nadvert ent l y caused t he gays t o mi st ake t hem for muscl e-t wi nks (a common and underst andabl e mi sconcept i on). Those of us t hat survi ved t he i ni t i al onsl aught were l eft t o l ook on as a queerdemi c of Romero-l i ke proport i ons unfol ded, grow-
i ng worse by t he moment. If t he vi rus had been confined t o flui d exchange, we mi ght have been abl e t o fight i t back. But when t he news t hat gay marri age was l egal hi t t he ai rwaves, t he chi l dren became t he next, and great est, causal i t y. Any chi l d wi t nessi ng t he medi a coverage and di scovered t hat, now, i t was OK t o be homosexual, was st ruck wi t h “t he gay”, as t hough a swi t ch had been fli pped i n t hei r t i ny brai ns, and i t t ook hol d l i ke some powerful hypnot i c suggest i on. Boys t ook t o t he pl aygrounds, t uggi ng not on gi rl s’ pi gt ai l s, but t he hai r-t uft s of t he ot her mal e chi l dren, al l t he whi l e l i sp-
i ng wi t h an effemi nacy so foul, i t woul d have made even Truman Capot e recoi l i n horror! Gi rl s t hrew down t hei r Barbi es and t ook up basebal l s. Not soft bal l s, mi nd you, honest -t o-god mot herfucki ng basebal l s! If t here was any quest i on as t o whet her or not our puni shment was heaven-sent, i t was moot t he moment t he el ement s t hemsel ves began t o rage agai nst us. The seas boi l ed! The ai r became foul, and t he heavens rai ned gl i t t er and met h i n equal mea-
sure, and i n pl ace of forebodi ng t hunder, we were i nst ead menaced wi t h boomi ng house musi c. Horri fical l y danceabl e house musi c! Vol cani c erupt i ons occurred si mul t aneousl y i n Rome, Jerusal em, and Mecca, l ooki ng for al l i nt ent s l i ke t he The Day the Gayz Took Over
by Adam Rosi na
Adam Rosi na, aka The Angri est Cri t i c, cut s a swat he t hr ough pol i t i cs, pop cul t ure, subcul t ure, and soci et y at l arge wi t h t he sur gi cal pr eci si on one woul d expect of a doubl e- bi t bat t l e- axe f or ged i n t he f i r es of hel l - bor n i nsani t y. Fact or f i ct i on? He doesn’ t even know, so why shoul d you?! Joi n hi m as he makes some j okes al ong t he way and gazes i nt o t he abyss i n Bl ack Theorem.
BLACK THEOREM
eart h i t sel f had sust ai ned a t ri o of fiery, rupt ured hemorrhoi ds, no doubt t he resul t of t he vi gorous and passi onat e spi ri t ual sodomy i t had sust ai ned at t he hands of humani t y. Then, when i t seemed t hi ngs coul dn’t get any worse, AIDS went fucki ng ai rborne. Fi nal l y, t he sky cracked i n t wai n. The Lord Jesus Chri st hi msel f appeared. He chast i sed us for our decadence and perversi on. We had defied God’s l aws i n t he passi ng of our eart hbound ones for t he l ast t i me! The gat es of heaven woul d be forever cl osed. Thi s worl d bel onged t o t he Devi l now, t he road t o hi s ascendance paved by our hubri s as much as by hi s foot sol ders, t he gays. And he was goi ng t o but t fuck each and every one of us… …except absol ut el y none of t hat shi t happened. The sun st i l l rose t he next morni ng, same as i t al ways had. The worl d was not pl unged i nt o ut t er chaos. The t errori st s di dn’t wi n. The nat i on was not bombarded wi t h nat ural di sas-
t ers as a si gn of some i magi nary dei t y’s wrat h (wel l, no more t han usual ). The chi l dren di d not wake and announce t o st unned parent s t hat t hey’d de-
ci ded t o be gay, because i t ’s not a fucki ng choi ce. Yet t he bi got s st i l l cl ung t o t hei r bi bl es and guns, l i ke t al i smans t o ward off t he t i de of progress and change, ever t he same superst i t i ous and cowardl y l ot t hey’d al ways been (+10 nerd poi nt s/-10 “ever have sex agai n” poi nt s ri ght t here). The onl y t hi ng t hat changed was t hat, i n New York St at e, gay and l esbi an coupl es were final l y grant ed t he ri ght t o share t hei r l i ves and t hei r l ove i n t he eyes of t he l aw, same as any ot her ci t i zen. And t hat st at e st ood as an exampl e t o ot hers, t hat we mi ght not l et our l aws be di ct at ed by rel i gi ous dogma or i r-
rat i onal hat red, but i nst ead l et t hem be enact ed by vi rt ue of what i s ri ght.
Speci al t hanks t o Mi chel l e Bachmann, Fred Phel ps, t he GOP, and, most re-
cent l y, Davi d Tyree, not t o ment i on rel i gi ous f anat i cs everywhere, f or doi ng t he heavy l i f t i ng on t hi s pi ece. The above work may have been crazi er t han what t he l ot of you spew f rom your vi ci ous l i t t l e mout hs, but not by much. Fuck of f and di e, every l ast one of you.
And l ast l y, R.I.P. Di vi ne, Donny t he Punk, Burroughs, Darby, Mappl et horpe, and al l t he ot her LBGT f ol ks whose work had a prof ound personal af f ect on my at t i t udes, art i st i c out put, and l i f e i n general. Thi s l egal deci si on mi ght not, had any of you l i ved t oday, have had any di rect ef f ect on your l i ves, but I’d l i ke t o t hi nk i t woul d have been cel ebrat ed by al l as a si gn of comi ng change and great er f reedom on a nat i onal (i f not gl obal ) scal e.
He’ l l be back next i ssue wi t h a br and new i nst al l ment
of Bl ack Theor em!
AUXI LI ARY august/sept ember 2011 24
Auxi l i ary Magazi ne i s a pr i me r esour ce f or adver t i ser s t o r each a growi ng, medi a savvy, and pr oduct consci ous gr oup of consumer s. Bet ween our hi ghl y vi si bl e di gi t al edi t i on t hat i s avai l abl e worl dwi de, and our beaut i f ul pr i nt edi t i ons t hat ar e avai l abl e i n sel ect bout i ques and t hr ough di r ect onl i ne pur chase, Auxi l i ar y i s capabl e of r eachi ng your pot ent i al cust omers t hr ough a var i et y of channel s.
adverti se i n
auxi l i ary
emai l advert i se@auxi l i arymagazi ne.com
for more i nfor mati on
LI FESTYLE
26
Q : I’m not sati sfied wi th the sex I have wi th my boyfri end. He al ways makes me come at some poi nt but the actual i ntercourse i s never enjoyabl e for me. It’s getti ng to the poi nt where I don’t feel as attracted to hi m as I once was. How can I sol ve thi s wi thout hurti ng hi s feel i ngs?
A : Thi s i s why I ki nd of l ove non-monogamy (at l east i n t he begi nni ngs of rel a-
t i onshi ps, and possi bl y t hroughout, dependi ng on how t he rel evant part i es feel. For my compl et e t hought s on i t see my bl og ent ry at www.ardenl ei gh.t ypepad.
com/bl og/2010/11/musi ngs-on-monogamy.ht ml.) Sex i s real l y i mport ant t o rel a-
t i onshi ps, and i f t he chemi st ry i sn’t t here, somet i mes t he rel at i onshi p feel s l ess val uabl e. At l east t hat ’s been my experi ence. And unt i l I feel cert ai n about t hat chemi st ry, I woul d rat her be abl e t o have t he opt i on of havi ng sex wi t h ot her peopl e i n order t o see i f t he chemi st ry, sexual and ot herwi se, organi cal l y draws me t o one person over t he ot hers. That way I don’t have t hi s probl em. I pri ori t i ze t he sex and rel at i onshi ps I have by how good t hey are.
Then agai n, I am a seduct i on coach, not a sexpert, as I have oft en sai d. So you may want t o get a second opi ni on. My fiel d of expert i se i s not i n how t o hel p you have bet t er sex, but rat her how t o hel p you get t o have sex wi t h t he peopl e you want t o have sex wi t h. Once you’re al ready havi ng sex wi t h t hem, t he best gui dance I can offer you i s t o communi cat e, pay at t ent i on, be fearl essl y uni nhi bi t ed, be commi t-
t ed t o your part ner ’s pl easure, and t ake responsi bi l i t y for maki ng sure your own needs get ful fil l ed, whi ch are t he exact same t hi ngs I woul d t el l you t o do i n t he seduct i on part l eadi ng up t o t he sex before i t even happens.
My onl y real gui dance here i s t o be communi cat i ve wi t h your boyfri end about what t urns you on. Guys can be obt use somet i mes and t hey need a l i t t l e hel p. Speak up about what you l i ke, bot h i n and out of bed. Phrase t hi ngs i n t he posi t i ve (i.e., dos rat her t han don’t s) and al ways l et hi m know when he’s doi ng somet hi ng you’re enj oyi ng. Part of t he work of seduct i on i s t hat we can’t expect anyone t o be a mi nd reader except oursel ves.
Beyond t hat? We have t he art of seduct i on so t hat we can have sex wi t h t he ki nds of peopl e who are goi ng t o bl ow our mi nds. And i f someone i sn’t doi ng i t for us, we know we can move on and have ot her opt i ons. So, consi der an open rel at i on-
shi p, or seei ng ot her peopl e, or breaki ng up ent i rel y, i f t he sex doesn’t get bet t er. Li fe’s t oo short for medi ocre sex.
what shoul d I do i f I ’ m sexual l y unsat i sf i ed i n my rel at i onshi p?
where shoul d I t ake my dat e on t he f i rst dat e?
Q : I take al l my first dates to the same perfect (I thought) pl ace, but i t never works out, and now I’m wonderi ng, i s there such a thi ng as too ni ce for a first date? Does i t make me l ook desperate? Shoul d I be savi ng the swanky spot for second dates?
A : Wai t wai t wai t wai t wai t wai t WAIT. You had me at, “I t ake al l my first dat es t o t he same pl ace.” Are al l your first dat es wi t h t he same person? Thi s i s your probl em. Thi s pl ace i s about your comfort and preference, not your i ndi vi dual t ar-
get s’. You must al ways, al ways, al ways t ai l or your seduct i ons t o your i ndi vi dual t arget s.
If you’re dat i ng my roommat e Hel ena (a gl amorous young member of t he l i t erat i who regul arl y t rot s around Europe), t hen t here i s no such t hi ng as t oo ni ce for a first dat e. If you’re dat i ng my fri end Eddy (a bl ues-si ngi ng art phot ographer and rock musi c ni ght l i fe st apl e), you probabl y shoul dn’t l eave New York’s Lower East Si de and you bet t er be abl e t o hol d your whi skey. If you’re dat i ng Anna Evans (a gl am rock-l ovi ng, et ernal l y corset ed burl esque performer), i t doesn’t mat t er where you t ake her nearl y as much as i t mat t ers t hat you’re weari ng eyel i ner and you l i ke Davi d Bowi e. Do you get my poi nt?
There’s anot her i ssue here i n t hat “dat es”, such as di nner dat es at swanky rest au-
rant s, have become a bi t passé as a way t o st art off a pot ent i al rel at i onshi p. They’re t oo formal, and t hey can be dangerousl y awkward or bori ng. Try an excursi on t hat ’s more mobi l e, wi t h a more i mmedi at el y engagi ng envi ronment, a rock con-
cert, barhoppi ng (especi al l y i f t here’s a pool t abl e or dart s so you have an act i vi t y t o focus on), dodgebal l i n t he park. By t he t i me you’re si t t i ng across a t abl e from someone at a rest aurant, you shoul d be absol ut el y cert ai n t hat you want t o spend t wo hours st uck t here wi t h t hem.
But more i mport ant l y, I have a feel i ng t hat your i ssue here i s a much deeper and more ext ensi ve one, si nce i t seems your perfect rest aurant choi ce i s st i l l ul t i mat el y about you rat her t han about your t arget s. If your dat es are about i mpressi ng a woman i n order t o mai nt ai n your own comfort zone around her, i t won’t mat t er how ni ce a pl ace you t ake her (unl ess she’s t he ki nd of gal who’s goi ng t o dat e you because she suspect s you’re goi ng t o t ake her shoppi ng, and real l y, no one want s t hat ). You need t o pay at t ent i on t o what she l i kes and find t he l i t t l e det ai l s and sur-
pri ses t hat wi l l pl ease and del i ght her. St op l ooki ng at rest aurant s and st art l ooki ng at t he women you’re t ryi ng t o seduce. That ’s where you’l l find your answers.
Bri ngi ng t oget her her experi ence i n neuro-
l i ngui st i c programmi ng, psychol ogy, pi ck-up art i st ry, and t he fet i sh i ndust ry, Arden Lei gh, t oday’s freshest voi ce on women’sdat i ng and rel at i onshi p st rat egi es, answers your quest i ons. submi t your quest i ons t o : askarden@auxi l i arymagazi ne.com
Ask Arden
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 AUXILIARY MAGAZINE PRESENTS
Xanthia Pink
in GirdleBound
LI FESTYLE
the PinUp
Auxiliary’s playful take on the sexy centerfold pin up. Flip the page, cut out, and tac on your wall!
photographer Saryn Christina
makeup, hair, model Xanthia Pink
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY photographer : Ron Douglas
There’s plenty of pink to go around when it comes to Los Angeles based fetish model Xanthia Pink. Xanthia is a creative whose modeling, styling, and very own hair accessory designs give fans of her work plenty of pink goodness to absorb through rose-colored glasses.
name : Xanthia Pink
nickname : Xan
birthday : November 20th
birthplace : Orange County, CA
eye color : Brown and at times they can be hazel.
hair color : Pink
turn-ons : Lip gloss, Delicious smelling perfume/
cologne, awesome big hair, latex, and stiletto shoes.
turn-offs : Bad body odor, too much body hair, and a bad attitude.
why do you model? : I love to create and be a part of art! I love connecting with the camera and sharing parts of my life in an artistic way! I enjoy taking photos in general to document my life and how I live it and with the people I love!
how did you get into modeling? : I saw photos in Marquis and Skin Two (fetish fashion magazines) and was fascinated! I started going to clubs in LA meeting people and networking as well as joining model networking sites like Model Mayhem (I’m MM#2573) and started building a portfolio! It all grew from there! It was just one of those things from the beginning that I just knew I had to be a part of it! So I made it happen!
favorite musical artist : I have to name a few, because I couldn’t just list one Bjork, Tori Amos, Madonna, Tool, Nine Inch Nails, and so many more! They have been favorites of mine since I was thirteen!
favorite movie : The Wedding Singer ( I love Romantic Comedies and the 80s and especially Drew Barrymore!).
favorite tv show : Breaking Bad
favorite cocktail : Depends on what mood I’m in but off the top of my head I’d say Raspberry Lemon Drop or Pomegranate Margarita.
favorite color : Pink
favorite tattoo : My left sleeve. [smiles]
favorite article of clothing : My black ruffle Betsy Johnson party dress.
favorite fashion designer : Betsey Johnson
favorite fashion style : My own! Flirty, fun, and colorful! And always accessorized with my own hand made hair bows and flowers! (Xanthia Pink Designs)
favorite star/icon : Madonna and Drew Barrymore! Very talented, strong, and creative women that have made themselves over and over again!
favorite outdoor activity : Walking or bicycling.
favorite indoor activity : Making hair bows and other crafty things!
anything you’d like to say to our readers? : I’m very happy to be the featured PinUp model for Auxiliary Magazine’s Aug/Sept Issue! So much thanks to the wonderful photographer Saryn! If you’re interested in seeing my hand made designer hair accessories please visit my website www.xanthiapink.com and www.xanthiapinkdesigns.etsy.com! Thanks!
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 FASHI ON
31
style
How would you dress yourself in a post apocalyptic world that is drowning in depravity, crawl-
ing with scavengers, and riddled with anarchy? Luckily this is not the current state of our world, but arguably some people could say we’re heading to our doom. If you would like to slip into the war-
rior role, you’re going to need to transform some found objects into protective, yet functional cloth-
ing that may involve; scraps of leather, nylon straps, netting, and distressed pieces of cloth. Most of you aren’t going to wait in your basement for the apocalypse and DIY may not be part of your skill set, so choosing designers that can provide you with some “end of the world” chic may be in your future forecast. Whether you’re channeling the character’s in Tank Girl or taking influences from the dystopian action movie Mad Max, you will be fashionable in your post apocalyptic inspired survival gear. 1 CoVert Utility Belt, Sync Leggings, and Sway-Mini all by Crisiswear with Mod 373-S2 boots from the MPX Extreme Collection by New Rock.
2 Ratty Wear By Sarah Viscera Heavy Texture Desert Cowl.
3 Pewter Bat Skull Necklace on Fire Orange Feather Pelt by Miyu Decay.
4 Cthulhu Adrift Teeth and Chain Fringe Earrings by Savage Salvage.
5 Hardware No. 5 Upcycled Mixed Metal Chain Bracelet by Savage Salvage.
6 Urchin No. 3 Modern Tribal Coral Bib Necklace by Savage Salvage.
7 Black Fringe Bat Skull Necklace with Coins by Miyu Decay.
8 Ratty Wear By Sarah Viscera
Apocalypse Net Crop Top and Shredded Ribcage Tank.
1
styled and written by Meagan Hendrickson
photographed by Jennifer Link
model Sarah Viscera
salvaged decay
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Xanthia Pink
HEAVY RED
Enshrouded in a sensual darkness, Heavy Red has always catered to those seeking something more from goth style. An icon and designer whose workmanship has entitled them to countless loyal fans and followers, Tyler Ondine Whitman and the crew at Heavy Red continue to redefine the concept and approach to gothic by playing with both subtlety and drama always with an air of sophistication. For connoisseurs of a darker aesthetic, a darker beauty, the future of goth fashion has never looked so bright. FASHI ON
i nt er vi ew by Vani t y Ki l l s
Heavy Red’s fashi ons bri ng out t he best i n a woman wi t hout overshadowi ng her. Thi s great achi evement can be part i al l y at t ri but ed t o t he count l ess hours desi gner Tyl er Ondi ne Whi t man i nvest ed i nt o st udyi ng and phot ographi ng t he femal e form i n al l i t s vari ance; from t he bare flesh of st ri ppers, swayi ng from t he pol es of Chez Paree i n San Franci sco’s Tenderl oi n di st ri ct, t o t he hyper-exaggerat ed vi sages of femi ni ni t y present ed by pageant wi nni ng drag queens i n Al abama. Repeat ed expo-
sure t o t hi s col orful Luci t e heel ed and be-sequi ned cast of charact ers t aught Whi t-
man how t o art i cul at e sensual i t y-drenched garment s whi ch readi l y i nvi t e flat t ery and prai se, i nst ead of si mpl y drowni ng t he wearer i n a met ri c t on of l ace, ruffles and t ul l e net t i ng. As Heavy Red t i rel essl y cont i nues t o uphol d t he maxi m of, “you shoul d wear t he dress, don’t l et t he dress wear you,” Tyl er t eases wi t h previ ews of t hei r fal l 2011 col l ect i on, shares rel evant t i ps on swi msui t season survi val ai med at t he bl ack-cl ad crowd, and t al ks of perusi ng t he pri nci pl es of form fit t i ng desi gn at nudi e bars.
Heavy Red i s getti ng ready to l aunch thei r fal l col l ecti on, what surpri ses do you have i n store?
Tyl er Ondi ne Whi t man : Heavy Red i s i t sel f l i ke a young woman, one who i s al ways di scoveri ng new facet s of her personal i t y. One who expl ores her sexual i t y, one who redefines hersel f t hrough subst ance and st yl e. A woman who can be t he pi ct ure of el egance duri ng t he day and a down ri ght naught y spect acl e aft er dark. The new fal l l i ne has so many exci t i ng el ement s t o hel p you creat e a l ook t hat i s an absol ut e you. Thi s season sui t i ngs, herri ngbones, pi nst ri pes are pl ayi ng a bi g rol e. Corset s l i ke you have never seen before whi ch wi l l l eave you breat hl ess. Our new wi nt er coat i s i n t he works, defini t el y a must have for fal l season. As al ways I have had some ext ra fun wi t h some very over t he t op ski rt s. I am cont i nui ng t o push t he boundari es of what one coul d cal l a hoodi e, wi t h al l new drapi ng and accent uat i ng of t he si l houet t e. And of course some very unexpect ed surpri ses t o t ant al i ze t he sophi st i cat ed Heavy Red shopper.
Many l adi es of the gothy persuasi on struggl e to find swi mwear that’s equal parts functi onal, flatteri ng, and ul ti matel y sati sfyi ng to a darker sensi bi l i ty. As an ori gi nator of the Swi m Noi r col l ecti on, can you offer any ti ps on pi cki ng the perfect spooky bi ki ni or one pi ece?
TW : I’l l be t he first one t o say I am not a beach person, nor am I much a fan of t he sun. When I had t o wear a bat hi ng sui t I woul d pi ck what ever underst at ed bat hi ng sui t I coul d find wi t hout hi deous adornment s or t acky l oud col ors. I woul d search hi gh and l ow for a pl ai n bl ack bat hi ng sui t. It woul dn’t have much personal i t y, but I found i t was t he l esser of t wo evi l s. When I woul d wear i t, i t wasn’t me, here I am i n basi cal l y my bra and underwear for t he whol e worl d t o see and I feel sel f consci ous and pl ai n, t wo t hi ngs I don’t l i ke t o be. Last year, I was down by t he wat er i n Veni ce at ni ght, and out of no where at l east a dozen gi rl s weari ng bl ack dresses raced t oward t he wat er. As t hey got cl oser one by one t hey pul l ed of t hei r dresses and ran i n t o t he wat er. They were each weari ng t hei r bras and underwear. Some were fancy and l acy, some were si mpl e, some mat ched and ot hers cl ashed but you coul d see t he gi rl reflect ed i n her choi ce of st yl e. Wat chi ng t hese noi r nymphs I was i nspi red t o creat e a l i ne of bat hi ng sui t s for t he gi rl s wi t h dark st yl e and a personal i t y t hat shoul d not be suffocat ed by barbi e dol l swi m wear. The Swi m Noi r l i ne gi ves an edgy yet personal t wi st t o t he cl assi c bi ki ni.
I t hi nk t hat when bat hi ng sui t shoppi ng t he number one rul e i s t o find a bat hi ng sui t t hat t i t i l l at es you, makes you want t o run around hal f naked amongst a sea of st rangers. St ay away from anyt hi ng t hat makes you feel sel f consci ous, embar-
rassed, or worst of al l l i ke an i mpost or. Search for pri nt s and col ors t hat reflect your personal sense of st yl e. The Heavy Red Swi m Noi r cut al t hough i t i s a bi ki ni has a cl assy sophi st i cat i on wi t h i t s st rai ght across boy cut bot t oms and ful l back. We don’t do g-st ri ngs, hal f t he al l ure of a bat hi ng sui t i s t he t ease, don’t show everyt hi ng, l eave t hem want i ng more...
I have found t hat t wo pi ece sui t s are easi er t o fit especi al l y for gi rl s who are short er or l onger i n t he t orso t hen average. Al so gi rl s whose measurement s are not as proport i onat e, heavi er i n t he bust and smal l er i n t he wai st and hi p and vi ce versa. In t he end i t comes down t o what i s ri ght for your body t ype.
I feel anot her key t o a successful bat hi ng sui t i s t he accessori es. I t hi nk t hat cov-
eral l s such as l oose semi -sheer shi rt s and l i t t l e sl i p dresses are wonderful because t hey prot ect you from t an l i nes, and provi de t hat ever cruci al t ease i n a very st yl i sh way. What’s the easi est way to transi ti on an ai ry, l i ghtwei ght gothy summer ward-
robe i nto fal l?
TW : I t hi nk l ayeri ng and accessori zi ng i s a great way t o make t he t ransi t i on. Heavy Red creat es many foundat i on pi eces, whi ch means si mpl e pi eces t hat are t he basi cs you need t o t hen creat e an out fit. Wi t h t hese basi c pi eces you can t hen begi n l ayeri ng cl ot hes and addi ng accessori es. For i nst ance a great way t o l ayer for fal l woul d be t o t ake your ai ry dress, add a wai st ci ncher over t he t op, a crop j acket or mat chi ng shrug, arm warmers and cut e st ocki ngs, and a pai r of fierce heel s and you wi l l find yoursel f fal l chi c as you wal k down t he st reet amongst fal l i ng l eaves, a cool breeze, warm coffee i n hand.
You began the foray i nto the fashi on worl d by sel l i ng uni que, handcrafted i tems such as wi nged dresses i n your eBay shop. Any possi bi l i ty of restock-
i ng updated versi ons of these vi ntage Heavy Red cl assi cs someti me i n the fu-
ture? TW : Someday I hope t o rel ease a weddi ng dress based of t hat very desi gn, al l hand sewn and dri ppi ng wi t h decadence. We are sent a l ot of t he weddi ng phot os 33
august/sept ember 2011 AUXI LI ARY “ Heavy Red i s i t sel f l i ke a young woman, one who i s al ways di scoveri ng new f acet s of her personal i t y. A woman who can be t he pi ct ure of el egance duri ng t he day and a down ri ght naught y spect acl e af t er dark. ”
photograher Jennifer Link
fashion stylist Meagan Hendrickson
makeup artist Andrea Losecco
hair stylist Erin Moser
model Agatka
THIS PAGE
Heavy Red Effigy Dress and Devast at i on of Innocence Corset pai red wi t h St ri at i on Madness Ti ght s, Dresdan Dol l Tea Gl ove Set, and Love i s Lost Cross Neckl ace. St yl i st ’s own hat.
AUXI LI ARY august/sept ember 2011 where the bride wore one of our dresses, and everyone at the office looks at them and tears up, it is such a pure moment the look of happiness on a new bride’s face. This has to be one of the most rewarding aspects of this job, a woman’s most spe-
cial day and she allowed me to dress her.
Your brand prides itself on providing the consumer with, “clothing for sex-
ual sophistication and seduction created by the gothic fashion trendsetting”. On that note, have you given thought to expanding your current offerings of corsetry and hosiery to include more gothy underpinnings such as lacy linge-
rie, petticoats and sensuous nightgowns for the morbidly inclined.
TW : You ready my mind you sneaky girl... Yes I have several divinely debaucher-
ous under things in the works.
A few seasons ago I designed several garter belts which I shot as outer wear, but of course could be worn as an undergarment as well. They received so much praise and since then many requests, that we will be releasing all new styles of garter belts, lacy unders, and what not in the fall. You’ve spent a considerable amount of time photographing the exotic dancers of San Francisco’s Chez Paree gentlemen’s club. It is im-
perative that I inquire if any of the residual “live nude girls” aesthetic “ I won’t lie I’m a bit of a control freak. I have such an exact vision. My heart is so very invested in every piece. I want to see it take form and be worn all over the world bringing fashion ecstasy to each owner. ”
crossed over into your later work as a fashion designer. Are there any ele-
ments of “stripper style” you found yourself cannibalizing and reconstructing while working on one of Heavy Red’s pieces?
TW : The Chez Girls project was such a rich experience in many ways. To become part of these women’s lives through the day in day out turmoil of stripping in a dive all-nude club in the Tenderloin district.
I think what I took with me was a far deeper understanding of the female shape. Watching naked women of all sizes curving, bending, gyrating, really allowed me to understand how a design needed to fit, how it needed to move with her curves, and look great on many varied body types. The human form is what has inspired art for centuries and it continues to inspire me. I will say, in my heart I forever carry some of the tragedy as well as the eroticism from those women. It is the beauty in the dark subtle moments that can translate in to clothing with feeling and expression. The clothes we make are not just pieces of cloth, they are statements, visions, dreams, fantasies.
Finish the sentence “The best life lesson I learned from a drag queen was…”
TW : How to promote your attributes and diminish your flaws. The things that are great about you should be showcased, the aspects that you don’t love should be minimized. This is what sticks with me while I design. As a woman I know what I want to show off and what I want to hide, so I make designs that are easily adjust-
able, that frame ones face, that distract from women’s problem areas such thick arms, bellies, wide hips, shortness, etc. I want to let women show the best side of themselves so that they walk with confidence and pride. Heavy Red’s goal has always been to make women feel beautiful, well dark and beautiful.
Could you tell me a little more about the Japanese street fashion influence that’s ever-present in your work? TW : I have been enchanted with the Japanese culture for a long time. I admire their sense of personalized self expression. Whenever I imagine myself walking the streets of Tokyo I can feel an abundance of draped fabric, cinches, and pulls to create customized fitting, I see elongated silhouettes, I feel a cold and sometimes rebellious acrimony. I love to create pieces from this inspiration and meld it with the warmth and passion of a Neo Victorian. I have found that people are never one sided, and their clothing shouldn’t be either.
Heavy Red’s garments boast quite descriptively poetic names (“Moment of Solitude Pencil Skirt”, “Violet’s Last Breath Steel Boned Waist Cincher”, “Innocence of Disregard Dress”). How do you approach the process of titling your latest creations?
TW : I close my eyes, imagine myself in the piece and find my senses transported to various fantasies. When I can smell, taste, and touch the wonderland where the clothes belong the name just comes to me. Do you prefer to have complete creative control over the images used for Heavy Red’s catalog by shooting and styling all the models yourself? Or do you enjoy collaborating with other photographers and stylists?
TW : I won’t lie I’m a bit of a control freak. I have such an exact vision and I know our customers so well that I want to make sure I stay true to Heavy Red’s mes-
sage of elegant dark beauty. My heart is so very invested in every piece. I want to see it take form and be worn all over the world bringing fashion ecstasy to each owner. I have always taken all the photos and I love doing it. Since the photos are the only way many people view the clothing I think it is so important to show the clothing in the context it was designed for. I have collaborated with makeup artists in the past and have had a great time. I love to work with other artists and watch our mad ravings turn to reality. Over the last year or two I have taken on the role of stylist for many of our shoots, as it seemed like an very interesting challenge, like the last piece of the puzzle.
What did you find to be the most useful utility for marketing your wares while trying to generate buzz around the Heavy Red brand? TW : Ten years ago it was definitely eBay. Now even though we have Facebook and Twitter pages I would still say the number one resource for marketing is our customers and fans. They are so loyal. Most of our customers continue to order from us every season. They are so happy with Heavy Red clothes that they are inspired to spread the word like gospel. They are the ones who have made Heavy Red grow in to the success it is today. Our fans inspire me to work harder and create more unique and amazing pieces for them every season. To our fans, I am grateful.
As Heavy Red continues to grow and evolve, what’s your business strategy
TW : As always I like to change things up a bit, experiment, and have some fun. There is a big surprise coming for Heavy Red fans this winter, something we have never done before... I’m so excited, but I am sworn to secrecy!
What’s next for Tyler and Heavy Red?
TW : Halloween is on my mind, every year we make a very special limited edi-
tion costume that always sells out, much to the dismay of late shoppers. I have so much fun creating a re-imagined Heavy Red take on a classic icon and turning it in to a costume. Heavy Red is also very excited to announce that the HBO show True Blood will be featuring our clothes in its upcoming Season 5!
I personally am hoping to spend some time in Paris this year. I love and miss that city very much. I am currently working on a new book of photography and have been asked to write a fictional book. I am scheduled to have an exhibit this spring showcasing some of my new visual art. So although busy, this looks to be yet another exciting year.
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august/sept ember 2011 AUXI LI ARY THIS PAGE
Heavy Red Engl i sh Pl ai d Crop Jacket, Engl i sh Pl ai d Corset, and Love’s Assassi n Gl oves.
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Heavy Red Arsenic & Lace Dress Shirt paired with English Herringbone Corset, Histrionic Desires Necklace, and model’s own skirt.
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Heavy Red French Écolière Rust Tartan Shirt and Jacket with Rue Morgue Striation Corset. Stylist’s own hat, ruffle collar, and bracelets.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 august/september 2011 AUXILIARY TARTAN
TARTAN
photographer Saryn Christina
makeup artist Sarah Anstead
hair stylist Jeanna Kier
model Sarah Hilker
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Zane Black Asymmetric Neck Leatherette Bolero and Pixie Red Black Cigarette Pants Legging with Liuva Plaid Waist Corset all from the 2011 spring/fall collection by Pinar Eris. To achieve this look try MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural and MAC Satin Lipstick in Myth.
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Eurydice Short Sleeve and Sparrow Bustle Shorts all from the 2011 spring/fall collection by Pinar Eris. AUXILIARY august/september 2011 august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
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Zane Black Asymmetric Neck Leatherette Bolero and Pixie Red Black Cigarette Pants Legging with Liuva Plaid Waist Corset all from the 2011 spring/fall collection by Pinar Eris.
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Eurydice Short Sleeve and Sparrow Bustle Shorts all from the 2011 spring/fall collection by Pinar Eris. To achieve this look try MAC Eye Kohl in Smolder.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
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Romy Black Gray Plaid Side Ruffled High Waist Mini Skirt from the 2011 spring/fall collection by Pinar Eris.
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Zane Black Asymmetric Neck Leatherette Bolero and Pixie Red Black Cigarette Pants Legging with Liuva Plaid Waist Corset all from the 2011 spring/fall collection by Pinar Eris.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
AUXILIARY ONLINE CONTENT See more images from this editorial by searching “Tartan” on www.auxiliarymagazine.com.
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photographer Donnor
fashion stylist Molly Hoeltke
hair stylist Whitney Curry
models Melissa Murphy and Rachael Kandefer
OPPOSITE PAGE
White Victorian Grand Dame Blouse and Black Victorian Long Layered Ruffle Skirt both by Retroscope Fashions paired with Vintage White Petticoat by Once Vintage and White Rose Gothic Lolita Parasol by Retroscope Fashions.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
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Feminine Cocktail Dress in gold metallic silk chiffon with crossover and tiered ruffle bodice from Made By Anatomy paired with two Plum and Gold Pearl Strands, Reverse Cameo Trio Necklace by Sweet Romance, brass vintage inspired locket ring by Jan Michaels, and brass vintage inspired cuff with natural stone by Jan Michaels all from Lotions and Potions.
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Flirty strapless dress with dГ©colletage-
flattering bow bodice, high waist, and flared skirt in metallic silk from Made By Anatomy paired with mixed metal layered teardrop necklace, gold coin cluster necklace, and vintage ring by Renee all from Lotions and Potions.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
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Delicate silk and lace mini dress with boned silk charm bodice from Made By Anatomy paired with 1930s Lace Dressing Robe by Once Vintage. Handmade Silk Blue & Gold Rosette Belt with lace and pearl by Lee Andi’s, vintage style metallic beaded wristlet, and vintage repurposed cocktail ring all from Lotions and Potions.
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Feminine cocktail dress and flirty strapless dress both from Made By Anatomy.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 THIS PAGE
This goddess gown gathers with a delicate ruffle at the bust line and halter straps adorned with silver stars, nude silk chiffon shirrs at a high waist and drapes gracefully to the ground from Made By Anatomy. Silver bangles with pearls and rhinestones, silver All the Angels and Saints bracelet by Imaged Jewelry, and coral cameo cocktail ring all from Lotions and Potions.
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White silk charmeuse gown with a delicate v-neck and empire waist with tiered ruffled train of alternating cream and ivory tonal shades cascades to the floor from Made by Anatomy paired with Black Ladies Tuxedo Tail Jacket by Retroscope Fashions.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 THIS PAGE
Flowing, ethereal pale citron silk chiffon gown with billowing bodice shirred at center seam and scooped back neckline blooms with delicate handmade silk flowers from Made By Anatomy paired with handmade porcelain mini-rosette and pearl clusters drop tassel necklace by Colleen Tolland, handmade porcelain mini-rosette and pearl clusters wrist cuff by Colleen Tolland, and gold filigree and deep blue rhinestone vintage inspired ring all from Lotions and Potions.
august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
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Dress made of sheer organza glittered in gold stars accompanied by layers of tulle netting with a youthful, ambitious flare from Made By Anatomy. Collage vintage cameo cuff, teardrop cluster mixed metal necklace by Sweet Romance, and Italian made Elizabeth Riccardi ring all from Lotions and Potions paired with three layers of vintage repurposed grandmother’s style viewbox bracelets.
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Goddess gown from Made by Anatomy.
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Marigold Satin Victorian Sleeveless Blouse and Tan Stripe Victorian Long Bustle Skirt both by Retroscope Fashions paired with Italian resin ivory cuff by Bellissima, vintage inspired cocktail ring by Olli Pop, and ivory and carnelian ring by Jan Michaels all from Lotions and Potions.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 august/september 2011 AUXILIARY
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Black Victorian aristocrat blouse and capelet used at waist both by Retroscope Fashions paired with Swan Lake lightweight high waisted billowy chiffon mini skirt with tiered layers of organza flowing from the waistband to meet a stiffened and defined hemline that bounces with charisma from Made by Anatomy.
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author Meagan Hendrickson & Jennifer Link
photographer Zach Rose
fashion stylist Jennifer Link
model Robert Zelin
This fall add a sleek and sophisticated bag into your wardrobe to help keep you organized in your daily life. Slip the Mike Portfolio Bag in Tabacco Brown by Fluevog onto your shoulder and embrace the wonderful craftsmanship that John Fluevog products have to offer. Fluevog is known for their distinctive shoes but they also offer bags, belts, and other accessories. This unisex leather bag is nice for trips to the office or studio, hopping a mid-town train to meet friends, or just being used as a stylish vessel to protect your laptop. With the Mike Portfolio you will always have a fashionable, yet functional bag that will last you through this season and for years to come.
AUXILIARY august/september 2011 THIS PAGE
Fluevog Mike Portfolio Bag in Tabacco Brown, Banana Republic Soft Wash Cotton V-Neck Tee, Express Rocco Jeans, Fluevog Tokyo Yokohama boots in Black Montana, and model’s own jewelry and cowboy hat. Unisex Shoulder Bag
MAC
www.maccosmetics.com
Made by Anatomy
www.madebyanatomy.com
Miyu Decay
www.miyudecay.etsy.com
Moda Industria
www.modaindustria.com
NYX Cosmetics
www.nyxcosmetics.com
Once Vintage
www.oncevintage.com
Pinar Eris
www.pinareris.com
Ratty Wear by Sarah Viscera
www.oOoplasticcouture.etsy.com
Retroscope Fashions
www.retroscopefashions.com
Savage Salvage
www.savagesalvage.etsy.com
Sephora
www.sephora.com
Slipshod Sally
www.slipshodsally.com
SKS Cosmetics
www.skscosmeticsstore.com
Ulta
www.ulta.com
where to buy
Banana Republic
www.bananarepublic.gap.com
Crisiswear
www.crisiswear.com
Express
www.express.com
Fluevog
www.fluevog.com
GirdleBound
www.girdlebound.com
Heavy Red
www.heavyred.com
Lotions and Potions
www.lotionsandpotionsny.com
Mike Portfolio Bag in Tabacco Brown by Fluevog
Автор
Tyrion
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