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Rorty No. 3 Tube Bender
Copyright Notice.
This entire Manual is copyrighted to Rorty Design, with all rights reserved. No part may be transferred or copied by any
means whatsoever, without the express written permission of Rorty Design.
All parts of this Manual are for the sole use of the purchaser. Use by any other party is strictly prohibited. This manual is
termed intellectual property and as such, constitutes a part of legitimate income. Copying or sharing this manual is stealing
and deprives Rorty Design of entitled income. Many hours of work goes into the research and production of these manuals
and all proceeds are essential to ensure continuing development and support.
Purchasing this Manual entitles the purchaser to build a single Rorty No.3 Tube Bender. Furthermore, Rorty Design reserves
the sole right to make any and every financial gain from this manual and any resulting device or derivative.
Rorty Design
Melbourne
VIC 8010
Australia.
www.rorty-design.com
info@rorty-design.com
Rorty No. 3 Tube Bender BOM
ITEM
DESCRIPTION
QTY
MATERIAL
1
2
3
4
5
6
7A
7B
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17A & B
18A
18B
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
BASE PLATE
COLUMN
DIE HOLDERS
BEAK
FIXED ARM
RATCHET PIN
LINK PIN
CLAMP PIN
LINK PIN
SPACER
BOLT
FLAT WASHER
HEX NUT
LEVER PLATE
HANDLE TANG
HANDLE
RATCHET
FIXED ARM SPACER
SWING ARM SPACER
SWING ARM SPACER
SWING ARM
U CLAMP
CAM SPINDLE
ROLL PIN
CAM LEVER
DIE
SOCKET SET SCREW
WIRE POINTER
FOLLOWER BLOCK
HEX BOLT
FLAT WASHER
HEX NUT
HEX BOLT
FLAT WASHER
HEX NUT
1
1
6
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
CR STEEL PLATE
STEEL SHS TUBE
STEEL ROUND BAR
CR STEEL PLATE
CR STEEL PLATE
STEEL ROUND BAR
STEEL ROUND BAR
STEEL ROUND BAR
STEEL ROUND BAR
CR STEEL PLATE
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
CR STEEL PLATE
STEEL FLAT BAR
STEEL RHS TUBE
CR STEEL PLATE
STEEL ROUND BAR
STEEL ROUND BAR
STEEL ROUND BAR
CR STEEL PLATE
STEEL FLAT BAR
STEEL ROUND BAR
SPRING STEEL
STEEL FLAT BAR
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
STEEL
DEGREE WHEEL
CR STEEL PLATE
DIA/SIZE/THICK
CLASS
mm [ " ]
/GRADE
10 [3/8]
1018
75 X 75 X 6 [3 X 3 X 1/4]
1018
� [1/2]
1018
16 [5/8]
1018
16 [5/8]
1018
�4"
4140
�8"
4140
�4"
4140
�
4140
16 [5/8]
1018
1"-8 UNC
5
�
1"-8 UNC
5
16 [5/8]
1018
45 X 16 [1-3/4 X 5/8]
1018
50 X 25 X 2 [2 X 1 X 3/32]
1018
16 [5/8]
1018
� [1-3/8]
4140
� [3/4]
4140
� [1-1/4]
4140
16 [5/8]
1018
40 X 5 [1-1/2 X 3/16]
1018
�
4140
�[1/8]
32 X 6 [1-1/4 X 1/4]
1018
3/8"-16 UNC
�5 [3/32]
3/4"-16 UNF
8
�4"
3/4"-16 UNF
8
1/2"-20 UNF
8
�2"
1/2"-20 UNF
8
1018
5 [3/16]
N.B. LENGTHS DO NOT INCLUDE CUTTING ALLOWANCES
LONG mm [ " ]
/DIM mm [ " ]
203 X 203 [8 X 8]
865 [34]
75 [3]
203 [8]
460 X 140 [18 X 5-1/2]
50 [2]
175 [7]
115 [4-1/2]
175 [7]
100 [4]
1"
215 X 120 [8-38 X 4-9/16]
185 [7-9/32]
1524 [60]
492 X 75 [19-3/8 X 3]
98 [3-7/8]
67 [2-5/8]
67 [2-5/8]
451 X 70 [17-3/4 X 2-3/4]
255 [10]
60 [2-3/8]
25 [1]
180 [7-1/8]
1/2"
175 [6-3/4]
8"
8"
205 X 156 [19-1/4 X 145/8]
Rorty No. 3 Tube Bender Construction
This Bender is capable of bending pipe (�mm [1/2"] ? �mm [1-1/2"]), chrome moly and mild steel DOM tube (�mm
[1/2"] ? �mm [2"]) and square tube (12mm [1/2"] ? 50mm [2"]) using commercially available dies.
The Bender is perfect for larger projects and professional use, offering some marked improvements over commercially
bought variants. A time-saving quick action clamp secures the tube to the die and will not mark the tube unlike the more
common use of a bolt pressing against the tube.
The Bender can be quickly de-mounted and stored away when not in use.
The Bender is designed with the utmost simplicity of construction in mind. The Stand and most of the other components can,
in most instances, be made from common steel off-cuts found in the average workshop. While the Arms and Ratchet can be
made using a pedestal drill and hacksaw or angle grinder, they would be much simpler produced using a bandsaw or by
laser or water jet cutting. The only other tools required are a scriber or craft knife, a tape measure, a setsquare, an
adjustable bevel, a hacksaw or cut-off saw, a pedestal or hand drill, a welder, and an angle grinder or file for finishing.
Due to the popularity of these benders and the proliferation of companies now producing dies, I have included two different
configurations of the bender arms and pins so that dies may be purchased one of two preferred vendors.
Note: The die manufacturer, and therefore the type of die, should be selected before any of the bender parts are fabricated
because the dies are not interchangeable between the two different sets of the bender's Fixed and Swing Arms.
Buying Die Sets
Prices, offers, availability and die configuration may vary from time to time, so one die supplier may suit your needs better
than another, so check out their prices and then proceed to fabricate the bender.
JD Squared (http://www.jd2.com/M3B/M3B_Prices.htm) sell the JD2 Model 3 tube bender die sets for pipe, and round and
square tube.
Pro Tools (http://www.pro-tools.com/105tdies.htm) sell the Pro Model 105 die sets for pipe, and round and square tube.
Xtreme Crawlers (http://www.xtremecrawlers.com/catalog/mb105-benderdies-mb105-round-tube-dies-c-72_134_105.html)
sell a full range of MB105 pipe dies (actually the Pro Model 105 die sets from Pro Tools).
Tube Bending Software
Advanced Tubular Technologies (http://www.advancedtubular.com/index1.htm)
Bend-Tech (http://www.2020softwaresolutions.com/)
General Fabrication
The dimensions throughout this Manual are in standard metric, but the old imperial inch format is included because that's
what my old paper drawings were annotated in. This manual is written in general terms to accommodate people with
different levels of skills and equipment. However, it is assumed that as you want to bend tube or pipe, you have at least a
basic knowledge of laying-out, cutting and welding too. If you have any problems understanding the construction of the No.3
Bender, please contact me at the email address at the end of the manual.
Please read through the entire manual at least once to familiarise yourself with all the drawings and procedures before
touching any metal.
Note: The following instructions describe fabricating a No.3 Bender for use with Pro-Tools die sets. If it is desired to use JD2
die sets, then you must substitute the following drawings; Key Pins 05b, Fixed Arm 06-1b, 06-2b, 06-2c and Swing Arm 07b.
So basically, any drawing with the suffix "a" is for use with Pro-Tools die sets and any drawings with the suffixes "b" or "c"
are for use with JD2 die sets.
1. Refer to Drawing 2. Cut and dress the Base Plate and drill the four anchor holes where indicated.
2. Refer to Drawing 3. Cut the 75mm x 75mm x 6mm [3" x 3" x 1/4"] SHS Column to length ensuring the ends are
accurate and square.
3. Centre the Column on the Base Plate, and tack-weld them together.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
TIP: To prevent the Base Plate turning up at the corners, make only short 20mm [3/4"] welds at each corner of the
Column.
Cut and dress the six 75mm [3"] Die Holders from �mm [1/2"] round bar.
Mark their positions on the side of the Column, and weld in place at about 4� above the horizontal.
Refer to Drawing 4. Cut and dress the Beak from 75mm x 12mm [3" x 1/2"] flat bar and drill the two holes where
indicated.
Position the Beak on top of the Column and align it with the sides. When satisfied it is perfectly aligned, carefully weld
the Beak to the Column.
Refer to Drawing 5a. On a lathe, turn the Key Pins, Lever Pin and Clamp Pin from 4140 steel bar and drill the �
3mm [1/8"] holes for the roll pins where indicated.
TIP: Alternatively, most tractor and agricultural supply stores stock high tensile lynch pins of varying sizes which make
very good Key Pins.
Refer to Drawings 6-1a and 6-2a. Cut and dress the two Fixed Arms and 16mm [5/8"] thick Spacer (only required if
bench-mounting the Bender) from 16mm [5/8"] plate and drill the holes where indicated.
TIP: See note below about case hardening.
From the upper side, insert the 1" x 1" bolt through the hole in the dogleg end of one of the Fixed Arms and tighten the
1" hex nut onto the bolt from the underside.
When satisfied the nut is concentric with the hole in the Arm, carefully weld the nut to the Arm.
Remove the bolt when cool.
Refer to Drawing 7a. Cut and dress the two Swing Arms from 65mm x 16mm [2-1/4" x 5/8"] flat bar and drill the holes
where indicated.
TIP: See note below about case hardening.
Refer to Drawing 8. Cut and dress the two Lever Plates from 8mm [5/16"] plate and drill the holes where indicated.
TIP: See note below about case hardening.
Cut and dress the Handle Tang.
Using a set square, scribe a line across the Handle Tang, 50mm [2"] from one end.
Insert the Handle Tang between the Lever Plates up to the scribed line and then stack the three parts together.
TIP: Insert the Key Pin and Lever Pin into the holes in the Lever Plates to ensure the Plates are perfectly aligned.
Clamp the assembly together and fully weld the Handle Tang to the two Lever Plates.
Refer to Drawing 9. Cut and dress the Ratchet from 75mm x 16mm [3" x 5/8"] flat bar and drill the holes where
indicated.
TIP: See note below about case hardening.
Refer to Drawing 10. On a lathe, make the two large Spacer Sleeves from �mm [1-1/4"] and the two small Spacer
Sleeves from �mm [1"] 4140 steel bar.
TIP: See note below about case hardening.
Most commercial die sets include a tube clamp that either doesn't always hold the tube securely, or the tensioning bolt
directly marks the tube. While this may not be of any concern to people just wanting to bend something with fairly loose
tolerances or they don't object to the tube being marked by the clamping bolt, others will require a more secure, accurate
and non-damaging set-up.
Below you'll find two designs of improved Tube Clamps to choose from.
17. Refer to Drawing 11-1. This quick action Tube Clamp will grip the tube securely without damaging the tube. The
Tube Clamp illustrated in the drawing is specifically for �.1mm [1-1/2"] tube, but the basic dimensions can be
applied to any size of Tube Clamp.
18. On a lathe, turn the Cam Spindle, noting the offset of the centres.
Drill the roll pin hole through the Spindle where indicated.
19. Bend a piece of 40mm x 5mm [1-1/2" x 3/16"] flat bar into a "U" shape by heating it and wrapping it around a scrap of
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
�.1mm [1-1/2"] tube or round bar and then temporarily tack weld a scrap piece of 40mm x 5mm [1-1/2" x 3/16"] flat
bar between the ends of the U Clamp.
Drill through the Clamp where indicated and then trim the slot to shape with a file.
Remove the small piece of scrap bar and then trim the ends to the correct length.
Gently pry the ends of the Tube Clamp open and push the ends of the Cam Spindle into the circular holes in the
Clamp.
Squeeze the Clamp closed again and press a �m x 25mm [1/8" x 1"] roll pin mid-way through the hole in the
bottom of the Cam Spindle.
Cut the Cam Lever to shape and drill the �mm [3/4"] hole near one end where indicated.
Press the Cam Lever over the top end of the Cam Spindle until their tops are flush.
Rose-weld the Cam Lever onto the Cam Spindle.
TIP: See note below about case hardening.
Refer to Drawing 11-2. An alternative, simpler tube clamp can be made utilising a hex bolt that also will not mark the
tube.
Bend a piece of 40mm x 5mm [1-1/2" x 3/16"] flat bar into a "U" shape, as previously described, by heating it and
wrapping it around a scrap of tube and then trim the ends to the correct length.
Mark out the Square Nut (in this case, 40mm [1-1/2"] long) on some 40mm x 12mm [1-1/2" x 1/2"] flat bar and centre
punch the hole centre.
Drill and tap the hole M10x1.5 [3/8"-16 UNC] and cut the Nut from the bar.
Weld the Square Nut between the ends of the U Clamp and drill through the Clamp where indicated and then trim the
slot to shape with a file.
Degree Wheel
The simplest way of making the Degree Wheel is to have it cut out with a laser which would also be capable of burning the
degree increments into the face of it. However, not many of us have a laser cutter sitting idly in the shed!
A more realistic method would be to stick a paper scale onto a bit of steel plate and transfer the markings through the paper
onto it.
27. Refer to Drawing 12. Print the drawing out full scale (A3) and glue the pattern onto the 5mm [3/16"] plate and centre
punch the centre marks for the hole and three radii. The hole is concentric with the outline, so before drilling the hole,
use the punch mark to locate a set of dividers (or a compass) and proceed to lay out the outline of the Degree Wheel.
While you've got the dividers out, lightly offset the outline towards the centre by 6mm [1/4"], 9mm [3/8"] and 12mm
[1/2"]. These three inner circles will act as a guide for making the division marks later on.
Use a hammer and a very sharp 12mm [1/2"] cold chisel to transfer the degree divisions through the paper and onto
the steel plate.
TIP: Mark all the 1癲ivisions first, then when the paper pattern has been cleaned off, go back and extend the 5� and
10� divisions to their respective guide lines that you laid out with the dividers.
28. Refer to Drawing 13. Cut a 1525mm [50"] length of 50mm x 25mm x 2.4mm [2" x 1" x 3/32"] RHS for the Handle.
Case hardening is a method of hardening the wear surfaces of low carbon steel for a longer service life and to reduce
galling.
The parts to be treated are heated up to a cherry red colour either by immersion in a forge or by localised heating with a
torch. A propriety carbonising powder is then applied and the heat maintained for a short period. The treated surfaces
absorb some of the carbon compound resulting in a glass-hard high-carbon wear surface, yet the tough core of the metal
remains unaltered.
It's not absolutely necessary to perform this treatment; the majority of commercially available ratchet benders are made from
non-hardened mild steel.
Case hardening is very simple to do and will extend the service life of the bender. Hardening powders are available from
most industrial tool suppliers or on-line and will normally come with complete instructions.
Rose Mill (http://www.rosemill.com/default.asp?pageid=27391) offer good products and advice.
Tuning the Die Sets
29. Refer to Drawing 14. The pointer is nothing more than a short length of wire that's attached to the die by a set screw
and then bent to read against the Degree Wheel.
To attach the wire to the die, drill a �m x 12mm [1/2"] deep hole into the top of the die where indicated and tap the
hole 3/8-16 UNC.
Drill a �5mm x 12mm [7/64" x 1/2"] deep hole for the wire into the side of the die where indicated.
Note: The positions of the holes shown are for a �.1mm [1-1/2"] die with a CLR of 150mm [6"], and will vary from
one size of die to another.
TIP: A simple fix to maintain the follower at the same height as the die centre line is to tack-weld a short length of tube
or pipe over the hole on the underside of the follower.
Again, the height of the piece of tube will vary from one die set to another.
Finishing and Assembling the Bender
30. Thoroughly clean all the parts with thinners or turps to remove all traces of oil and anti-spatter fluid.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
Suspend the parts on wire and spray all the metal work with a good quality polyurethane paint, and then leave until
the paint has hardened.
Insert �m x 25mm [1/8" x 1"] roll pins mid-way through the Lever Pin and Key Pins.
Insert a �m x 32mm [1/8" x 1-1/4"] roll pin mid-way through the Clamp Pin.
Use the four holes in the Base Plate to mark the location of the mounting holes onto the floor.
Note: It is absolutely essential to ensure the Stand is vertical and the Bender is perfectly level, otherwise it will be
virtually impossible to make compound bends in a tube with reliable results.
Attach the Stand to the floor using the appropriate fasteners and check that it's level.
Insert the Ratchet into the Lever and align the larger holes.
Smear a small amount of molybdenum disulphide grease around the Lever Pin and insert it through the Lever and
Ratchet and secure with a second �m x 25mm [1/8" x 1"] roll pin.
Stand the bottom Fixed Arm (with the hex nut) on its side on a level surface.
Smear a small amount of molybdenum disulphide grease around the stepped �mm [1-1/4"] Spacer Sleeve and
slide it into the Lever/Ratchet and lay the assembly on its side.
Note: The larger diameter of the stepped Sleeve should end up below the Lever.
Position the top Fixed Arm on its side adjacent to the bottom Arm.
Set the Lever/Ratchet between the two Fixed Arms and insert one of the two 3/4" x 7" bolts into the end hole in the
top Arm, through the stepped Sleeve/Lever/Ratchet and through the end hole in the bottom Arm.
Insert the second 3/4" x 7" bolt into the second hole in the top Arm, through the plain �mm [1-1/4"] Spacer Sleeve
and the bottom Arm.
Transfer the assembly to the Stand and support it, upright, on the Beak.
Note: If mounting the Bender on some structure other than the illustrated Stand, it may be necessary to incorporate
the optional 16mm [5/8"] thick Spacer and longer (8") bolts.
Guide the two bolts through the holes in the Beak and put the two �4" washers and 3/4" hex nuts onto the bolts, but
do not fully tighten them yet.
Drop the � Key Pin through the holes in the dogleg ends of the Fixed Arms and drop a �8" Key Pin through two
of the row of holes in the Arm.
Resume tightening the two bolts making sure they seat evenly and pay particular attention to the alignment of the
Arms and Key Pins.
Torque the 3/4" nuts to 600 N-m [442.5 lbf-ft].
Remove the Key Pins.
In a similar manner, stand one of the Swing Arms on its side on a level surface and assemble the two � 25mm [1"]
Spacer Sleeves, the second Swing Arm and two 1/2 x 5" bolts, �2" washers and 1/2" hex nuts and use the Key
Pins to ensure accurate alignment of the assembly.
Torque the 1/2" nuts to 180 N-m [133 lbf-ft].
Insert the 1" x 1" hex bolt through one of the � washers, up through the Degree Wheel, through the second �
washer and screw it into the 1" hex nut on the under side of the bottom Fixed Arm.
Tip: Do not tighten the nut more than finger tight to allow for easy alterations.
Position your chosen die between the ends of the Swing Arms and then slide the lot between the doglegs of the Fixed
Arms.
Smear a small amount of molybdenum disulphide grease around the � Key Pin and push the Pin through the Arms
and die to locate them.
Grease the two Pins in the Lever too.
Rotate the Pins a few times to distribute the grease evenly.
Note: Never allow grease to get onto the concave working surface of the dies.
Cut a piece of welding rod or coat-hanger wire about 175mm [6-3/4"] long and bend it at 90�, 28mm [1-1/8"] from one
end.
Measure 102mm [4"] from the first bend and again bend the wire at 90�.
Bash the tip of the longer end of the wire flat with a hammer to make a finer point.
Poke the short bent end into the small hole in the die and secure it with a [3/8"-16 UNC x 3/4"] flat-point in-hex set
screw.
Note: Make sure the set screw doesn't protrude too far out of the die or it may interfere with the Swing Arm.
Adjust the wire until it points neatly at the scale on the Degree Wheel (Fig. A).
Fig. A.
45. Slide the RHS Handle over the end of the Lever.
Note: The specified 1525mm [50"] long Handle is adequate for most jobs, but if bending chrome moly or DOM tube
over �mm [1-3/4"], a Handle as long as 1830mm [72"] may be required.
Using the Bender
Due to the very high forces involved with using a bender like this, it's possible for the moving parts to gall or "pick-up". If this
is allowed to happen, the damage to the pivot areas and die and follower faces can quickly escalate leading to inaccuracies
and damage to the tube being bent.
To prevent galling, always clean the Pins, dies, followers and the area of tube to be bent prior to use. If the tube is scaly or
lightly rusted, smooth it down with Emery cloth or steel wool.
Note: Heavily rusted tube is virtually guaranteed to damage the dies.
Tip: When storing the Bender, always spray it with a light coat WD40 which won't attract dust like other lubricants.
Note: Be sure to wipe any residual WD40 from the die and follower faces prior to bending any tube.
The finished CLR of bent tube seldom matches the manufacturers stated CLR due to various anomalies. It will be necessary
to over-bend the tube slightly to allow for spring-back (the result of the material's "memory" attempting to return it to its
original shape). As the pressure on the tube is released, it springs back and the radius "grows".
Each material has its own memory characteristics and the radius achieved will vary between different diameters and wall
thicknesses of the same material. In conjunction with different sizes of dies, the amount spring-back will also vary.
Making a Sample Bend
The following is an example of how to perform a basic bend in a length of tube.
46. Move the Swing Arm back against the Fixed Arm.
47. Rotate the die so a �8" Key Pin can be inserted through one of the holes in the Swing Arm and through the first
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
hole in the die.
Note: Always ensure the Key Pins are fully inserted or damage to you or the bender could occur!
Insert the length of tube to be bent through the Arms and alongside the die's extension block.
Place the follower between the Fixed Arms and snug it up against the tube, locking it in place with another �8" Key
Pin.
Secure the tube in place with the Tube Clamp and the short Tube Clamp pin through the hole in the die's extension
block.
Insert the Wire Pointer into the hole in the die and tighten the set screw.
Adjust the Degree Wheel and the Pointer so that it points to zero.
Pull the Handle around anti-clockwise and engage the Ratchet with the outer Swing Arm Spacer.
Pull the Handle steadily and slowly clockwise to produce a bend in the tube.
When the Handle reaches the end of its travel, release the Ratchet from the Swing Arm, withdraw the Key Pin from
the die, return the Swing Arm towards the Fixed Arm and insert the Key Pin into the closest drive hole in the die.
Re-engage the Ratchet and continue to slowly pull the Handle around (fig. B).
Fig. B. (Handle and Stand not shown.)
Using Small Radii Dies
Dies with a CLR of less than 3" normally don't have drive holes due to lack of space, so a slightly different method is used for
bending with these small dies.
55. Set up the die, follower and Tube Clamp as before, but swing the Lever and Ratchet right out of the way as these will
not be required.
Instead, insert the Handle between the Swing Arm spacers as shown (fig. C, pink arrow) and let the Swing Arm exert
the pressure directly against the Tube Clamp Pin (Fig. C, blue arrow).
Fig. C. (Stand not shown.)
Logging Die and Tube Data
Each tube diameter and wall thickness will deform differently and will require different amounts of material for the bends.
Therefore, it is advisable to make a few initial trial bends using cheap ERW [CREW] tube to familiarise yourself with each
size of die set you plan on using. Although non-productive, gathering the bend data will make it easier to lay out your
work and will also ensure you form accurate bends in the future.
As �mm [1-1/2"] tube is probably the most common size used for roll cages and similar structures, the following bend
example will be based on �mm [1-1/2"] tube and a matching die with a 6" CLR.
56. Begin by cutting a 915mm [36"] length of �mm [1-1/2"] tube and insert it into the Bender.
Slide the tube forwards until the end of the tube is exactly 305mm [12"] past the front face of the die, then lock it in
place with the Tube Clamp (fig. D).
This leaves 610mm [18"] behind the die face.
Tip: It pays to get into the habit of using the front face of the die to mark the tube with a felt tip pen.
Fig. D. (Bender mechanism not shown for clarity.)
57. Pull the Handle around until the Pointer reads exactly 90� (fig. E).
Tip: Generally a little gentle "nudging" on the Handle is all that's required to achieve the last few degrees of the bend
angle.
Note: Make sure there is no pressure exerted on the Handle when reading the degree scale.
Fig. E. (Bender mechanism not shown for clarity.)
Remove the bent tube from the bender and observe what has happened to it (fig. F); the 305mm [12"] end is now 508mm
[20"], a gain of 203mm [8"].
Conversely, the 610mm [24"] end of the tube is now 519.7mm [20-1/2"], a reduction of 89mm [3-1/2"].
Write these figures down and retain them for future reference.
To summarise, a 90� bend in a �mm [1-1/2"] tube adds 203mm [8"] at the start of the bend and subtracts 89mm [3-1/2"]
after the die.
Fig. F.
It is essential to find the actual centreline radius to enable accurate layouts and when working from CAD drawings or
bending software. To establish the actual CLR of the bent tube, a simple formula can be applied to it:
V + H - L - D x 2.33 = R6.99
L = the length of tube (915mm [36"] �mm [1-1/2"]),
V = the vertical leg of the tube (as viewed in fig. F),
H = the horizontal leg of the tube (as viewed in fig. F),
D = the diameter of the tube (�.1 [1-1/2"]).
In reality, the actual CLR will probably be 20% to 30% greater than stated.
To establish the LOB (Length Of (tube in) Bend):
LOB = (R x .01745) x Z
R is radius of the bend,
Z is the angle of the bend.
Additional Information
CLR = Centre Line Radius
DOB = Degree Of Bend
LOB = Length Of (tube in) Bend
LOB = CLR x DOB x 0.1745
or, to put it another way:
LOB = (R x .01745) x Z
R is radius of the bend,
Z is the angle of the bend.
Setback = radius x tangent 1/2 angle of bend.
Circumference = 3.1416 x diameter.
An Example Roll Bar Project
Rather than just starting bending from one end of a 6m [20'] tube and hoping there'll be enough tube for the hoop, draw a
schematic the proposed roll bar tube to familiarise yourself with the proportions and dimensions.
58. Based on the trial bends above, lay out the starting points of the bends, beginning from the centre of the tube.
59. For a �mm [1-1/2"], 1020mm [40"] wide roll bar, draw a line 510mm [20"] either side of the centre of the "tube"
(1020mm [40"] � 2 = 510mm [20"]).
60. As previously established, the bending process will subtract 89mm [3-1/2"] behind the die, so draw another line 89mm
[3-1/2"] either side of the first two.
61. As previously established, the bending process will add 203mm [8"] in front of the die, so for a 915mm [36"] tall roll
bar, measure along a further 712mm [28"] (915mm [36"] less 203mm [8"]) and again, draw in the lines.
62. Because of the anomalies of tube bending, it's always prudent to allow a safety margin, so add a further 25mm [1"] to
each end of the schematic (fig. G).
In reality it's much easier to remove excess material than to add it on, so the extra 25mm [1"] on each end can be
trimmed off when the roll bar is finished.
Fig G.
63. Transfer the measurements onto a 2673mm [105-1/4"] length of �mm [1-1/2"] tube.
64. Insert the tube into the bender and align the face of the die with the first bend location (the top of the straight leg) (fig.
H).
Fig. H.
65. Lock the Tube Clamp and bend the tube to 90�.
66. Remove the tube from the bender and swap ends.
Insert the other end of the tube into the bender and lock it in position again at the start of the bend (fig. I).
Tip: Before making the second bend, place a magnetic-based angle finder on the previously bent leg to ensure it is
perfectly horizontal. If it is not level, the roll bar will end up with a twist.
Fig. I.
67. Pull the Handle around again and make the second 90� bend and finish the roll bar. All that's required now is to trim
the ends of the legs to the finished length.
The roll bar example above is a very simple demonstration of what can be done with the Rorty No.3 Bender. Although the
angles used in the example above were a nice easy 90� the same principals are used for any angle of bend.
The important thing to remember is that the actual CLR must be established for each and every tube and die size used and
only then can the formula and geometry demonstrated above be put into practice.
Happy bending!
BASE PLATE
RN3B 02
COLUMN
RN3B 03
BEAK
RN3B 04
KEY PINS
RN3B 05PT
KEY PINS
RN3B 05JD
FIXED ARM
RN3B 06-1PT
FIXED ARM
RN3B 06-1JD
FIXED ARM
RN3B 06-2PT
SWING ARM
RN3B 07PT
SWING ARM
RN3B 07JD
LEVER
RN3B 08
RATCHET
RN3B 09
SPACER SLEEVES
RN3B 10PT
SPACER SLEEVES
RN3B 10JD
TUBE CLAMP CAM ACTION
RN3B 11-1
TUBE CLAMP - BASIC
RN3B 11-2
THIS DRAWING IS CONFIDENTIAL AND IS SUPPLIED ON THE EXPRESS CONDITION THAT
IT SHALL NOT BE LOANED, COPIED OR DISCLOSED TO ANY OTHER PERSON NOR USED
FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE WITHOUT THE WRITTEN CONSENT OF RORTY DESIGN
0
15
0
140
130
120
110
100
90
80
70
FIRST ANGLE PROJECTION
16
A3
3. CORNER RADII R0.75
4. CHAMFER SIZE 0.75 x 45�
5. CONCENTRICITY 0.05 TIR
UNLESS SPECIFIED
OTHERWISE: TOLERANCES
ANGULAR � 0.5�
40
30
20
220
210
200
190
180
230
UNLESS SPECIFIED OTHERWISE:
1. ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS
2. REMOVE ALL BURRS & SHARP EDGES
0
17
.X � 0.5
.XX � 0.25
.XXX � 0.125
REV
No.
AUSTRALIA
www.rorty-design.com
info@rorty-design.com
50
SHEET
DATE
REVISIONS
DATE & No
SCALE
DRAWN
TITLE
RN3B 12
DEGREE WHEEL
DRG No
ZONE
10
0
60
HANDLE
RN3B 13
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sh-fakil
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