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Патент USA US2108101

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Feb. 15, 1938.
2,108,101
M. BUONO
METHOD OF SEWING
' Original Filed April 2, ‘1937
~ 47
16a
4 Sheets-Sheet‘ 1
19
21a
20
7
ig: 4
‘cm/612m '
_
ORNE Y5
Feb. 15, 1938.
_
M. BUONO
' 2,108,101
METHOD OF SEWING
Original Filed April 2, 1957
4 Sheets-Sheet 2
ENTOR
BY
Feb. 15, 1938.
M_ BUONQ
2,108,101
METHOD OF SEWING
_ Original Filed April 2, 1937
4 Sheets-Sheet 5
_
NVENTOR
mm
76%
TTORNE VS
Feb. 15, 1938.
2,108,101
M. BUONO
METHOD OF SEWING
Original Filed April 2 ,
1957
4 Sheets-Sheet 4
VENTOR
Patented Feb. 15, 1938
UNITED STATES PATENT‘ OFFICE
2,108,101
METHOD OF SEWING
Mario Buono, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to U. S.
Blind Stitch Machine‘Corporation, New York,
N. Y., a corporation of New York
Original application April 2, 1937, Serial No. 134,
470. Divided and this application August 13,
1937, Serial No. 158,898
4vClaims. (Cl. 112-267)
This invention relates to a new and improved
method of sewing.
One of the objects of my invention is to provide a method which can be practiced by apply
5 ing an attachment to well known blind-stitch
machines of the type which have a curved nee
dle, which is caused to oscillate, although the in
vention is not limited to any particular type of
blind-stitch sewing machine.
10
Another object of my invention is to provide
an improved method which will perform the
class of work which is known as “tacking”, so
as to eliminate the necessity of the hand labor
which has heretofore been employed for this
15 class of work, and to produce an improved “tack
mg”.
I
Other objects of my invention will be set forth
in the following description and drawings which
illustrate various preferred embodiments thereof,
20 it being understood that the above statement of
the objects of the invention, is intended generally
to explain the same, and without limiting it in
on the usual oscillating shaft 3. The usual curved
Fig. 1 is a side elevation showing the essential
parts of a blind-stitch sewing machine of con
ventional construction, to which an attachment
has been applied for carrying out the improved
needle 4 is connected to said needle-holder 2. .
Fig. 1 also shows the well known looper 5, the
looper rod 1, and the yoke B for said looper-rod l.
The looper 5 is detachably connected in the well
known manner to an extension ‘la of the looper
_
Fig. 2 is a front elevation of Fig. 1.
'
, rod 7. The yoke 6 is pivotally mounted at 8 in the
.
Fig. 3 is a plan view on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is an elevation, on the line 4-4 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 5 is a sectional view, partially in eleva
tion on the line 5-5 of Fig. 3.
.
Fig. 6 is a sectional View, partially in elevation,
usual manner.
According to my invention, I'provide an im
proved rib member R, which will be later de
scribed in detail. Said improved member R is
mounted upon the rib-shaft 9, and said shaft 9
on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3.
Fig. '7 is a sectional view on the line 1-—l of
is Caused to oscillate in the usual manner.
Fig. 3.
plate l0, which is rigidly connected to the head
i, by means of the yoke II. This yoke H may
be integral with the plate ID.
_
Figs. 8 and 9 are detail end elevations, largely
diagrammatic, and showing the adjustment of
the means for regulating the stitch and for mak
ing allowancefor different thicknesses of cloth.
Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic detail perspective
view showing the means for regulating the stitch.
Fig. 11 is a perspective view illustrating the
45 improved stitch.
1
Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 5, and showing
a modi?cation of the invention.
\ Fig. 13 is a sectional view on the line l3—-l3
of Fig. 12.
'
I
Figs. 14 and 15 are detail sectional views, show
ing the operation of the means for regulating
the stitch, in the embodiment of Fig. 12.
Fig.~14 is a View which is generally similar to
55
According to my invention, the facing strip is
connected to the body of the coat, inwardly of the
edge of the coat, by blind stitches, so as to pro
vide ‘an improved stitch connection.
Referring to Fig. 1, this shows the head i of
the machine, and the needle-holder 2, mounted
any manner.
method.
5O
different position. Fig. 15 is a sectional view on
the line l5-_l5 of Fig. 12.
Figs. 16 and 17 are diagrammatic detail views,
illustrating the regulation of the stitch, in the
embodiment shown in Fig. 12.
Fig. 18 is a sectional view, partially in elevation,
on the line |8-I8 of Fig. 12.
Fig. 19 is a sectional view on the line Ill-I9
of Fig. 18.
Although the invention is not limited to the
manufacture of coats, it will be described in con
nection with such manufacture, as an example.
In making women’s cloth coats, it has been
known for many years to provide cloth facings
at the separated longitudinal edges of the front 15
Walls of the coats.
Fig. 15, but showing the regulating ?nger in a
30
The
machine is also provided with the usual rigid
The machine is also provided with the usual
feed dog I2 which is actuated in the usual man
her, so as to have the usual four-motion relative
to the rigid plate l0. As shown in Fig. 3, the
plate ID is provided with the usual slot Hla, in
which the feed dog l2 can operate.
45
The work is generally designated by the refer
ence letter W.
Prior to ?nally sewing the work by means of ,
my improved method, the body 28 of the coat is
sewed along one of its frontedges to the facing. 50
strip 21, by .means of through-and-through,
stitches S. The facing is then turned in the usual
manner so as to conceal the raw seam which has
been formed by stitches S. The outer-edge por
@1011 of facing strip 211 can be connected to the 55
2,108,101
.
_
1
body portion of the coat by means of the conven
tional basting stitches, close to the line of stitches
S. These basting stitches are not shown, since
they are well-known and they are pulled out of
the garment, after it has been ?nished. The use
of basting stitches can be omitted.
ridge 24. As shown in Figs. 8 and 9 for example,
only a single layer of fabric is bent to form a
bight, by the ridge 24, and the three layers of the
work are supported by ridge 25, when the stitch
is formed. While the invention is not limited to 5
The inner edge of the facing strip is now bent
the particular class of work illustrated in Figs. 8, 9,
and 11, the greater number of layers of the ma
towards its outer edge, so as to form a top layer
terial are fed over the ridge of smaller diameter.
Y 210. of the facing strip.
Part of the work then consists of the single
10
As shown in Fig. 7, the regulating ?nger 30 is
provided with a lateral arm 3|. Said lateral arm 10
layer of cloth of the body 28, and part of the work
consists ‘of three layers of cloth, namely, the body
3| is movable laterally, without turning, in a
guide 32. Said guide 32 has an angular plate 33,
28, facing strip 21, and the top layer 21a of said
facing strip. The top layer~21a can be made of
which can be connected detachably by means of
a screw or the like, to the ‘upper surface of the“
any suitable width, but it is preferably much nar
plate It), and which is connected to the box-like 15
rower than the remainder of said facing strip. I
guide 32 in any suitable manner.
.
The lateral arm 3| of the ?nger 30 is provided
(with an integral lug 34. As shown in Fig. 3 and
possible.
'
The auxiliary device shown in Figs. 3 and 4 Fig, 18, said lug 34 can be provided with .a tapped
20' may be used in assisting the operator to form bore, and an adjusting screw 35 is located within
said top layer 21a in an accurate and even manner. saidv tapped bore. The adjusting screw 35 is
prefer to make said top layer 21a as narrow as
Figs. 3 and 4 show a table 50 which is located mounted in a bearing 35a, which is provided in
in front of the sewing machine. This table 58 the extension of the plate 33. The screw 35 is
provided with a knurled head 36,. A spring 31,
may be ?xed or it may be vertically adjustable.
Said table 58 supports a laterally adjustable which is connectedto the extension of the plate
25
33, holds the knurled head 36 yieldably in position.
metal gauge plate 5|. Said plate 5| may be sup
ported on top of a bushing 52, which is connected) Hence, by operating the knurled head 36, the
to table 50. As shown in Fig. 3, plate 5| has a ?nger 30 may be shifted laterally, or in a direction
transverse slot 53. A clamping screw 54 clamps transverse to the direction in which the work is
30 plate 5| to bushing 52. The lateral slot 53 makes
fed through the machine.
_
'
Referring to Fig. 8 and Fig. 9, these can be best
it possible to adjust said plate 5| so as to allow
described with reference to a reference line 40..
for facings of different widths, and to make it pos
in Fig. 8, one lateral position of the ?nger 30 is in
sible to fold a facing along any desired line.
The cloth is fed between the bottom surface of dicated in broken lines by the reference numeral
35 the rigid plate l0 and the usual ?ngers ~|4, which ‘48a. In Fig. 9 another lateral position of the 1m- _
yieldably support the work. These ?ngers l4 are ger 38 is indicated by the reference numeral 40hr
It can be seen that the ?nger 30 can be adjusted
pivotally mounted at [5 to the arms of ?nger
supports 22. The rib R, and certain other essential laterally so as to vary the distance between said
parts of the device, all of which are located under
?nger “hand the ridges 24 and 25.
_
‘
The adjustment shown in Fig. 9, in which the 40
40 neath the rigid plate ID, are connected to an ex
tension of the housing I6. Said housing I6 is ?nger 38 is moved close to the ridge 25, .is in
turnably mounted in the usual‘ manner, so that tended to adjust themachine for sewing thin
the machine can be adjusted for cloth of di?’erent goods. The position of the ?nger 30 which is in-_
dicated in Fig. 8, shows the position which ‘is
thicknesses. As shown in Fig. 1, the sewing ma
45 chine is provided with the usual base l6a, having . suitable for sewing thick goods. It will be noted
an upright-?ange H. The housing I6 is provided that the curved needle 4 oscillates in- the usual
with the usual spring (not shown) .' A screw I8 manner, along a, recess 4| in the plate l0. As
is mounted in the lug I9 ‘of the housing l8, and shown in Fig. 8, the needle passes through the
said screw I8 is provided with the usual lock nut cloth at the bight 42, which has been formed by
" The end of the screw l8 can abut the ?ange means of the ridge 24, so that a blind-stitch is 50
v50 20.
l1, so as to limit the turning of the housing l6, formed which is invisible at either face of the
under the force of its associated spring, so that body of the garment. The needle ‘also passes
the distance of the rib below the plate Hi can be through the fold of the facing strip, at the line
adjusted. ‘An adjusting screw 2|a is provided for _ 43, so as to form ablindI-stitch which is invisible
55 regulating the force of the spring which is con
at ‘the inner face of the facing strip, when the 55
nected to the housing l6.
. layer 21a is free to assume its normal position,_
As shown in Fig. 1, the'machine also has the close to body 28. _
.
usual springs 2|, which are connected to the sup—
After the tacking operation‘ has been completed,
ports 22 for the ?ngers l4. These supports 22 are the natural resilience of the cloth causes the
60 pivotally mounted at 23, and since the ?ngers l4 turned or folded portion of the facing strip to turn 60
are connected turnably at l5 to arms of said sup
back to normal positionk‘so that the entire fac
ports 22, said ?ngers | 4 can turn relative to said ing strip lies against the body of the coat, and
supports 22.
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the facing strip is held to the body of the coat
As shown in Figs. 8, 9, 14, 15, 16, and 17, the by invisible stitches.
65 improved rib-member R is provided with sepa
If the machine is adjusted as shown in Fig. 8, 65
rated ridges 24 and 25, separated by an interme
in order to sew relatively thick goods, and the
diate portion 26, which ‘has a general concave same adjustment is maintained in sewing rela
tively thin goods, the stitch will show at the in
As the-work W is fed through the machine, a side of the facing along the line43, when the work
70 part‘ of the body 28 of the garment is fed between -is completed. However, if the ?nger 30 is shifted 70
the underside of a regulating ?nger 30 or 3011, and closer to the ridge 25, and the fold of facing
a part of the intermediate portion 26 of the im
strip at line 43 is formed closer to said ridge 25,
proved rib E. This regulating ?nger 38 or 35a the stitch is regulated so as .to form a blind
constitutes a part of the-improvement.
stitch along the line 43, because the folded edge
.75 The ridge 25 is of smaller diameter than the of the facing strip intersects the path of move- ‘
contour.
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2,108,101
ment of the curved needle, at a higher part of
to the use of a chain stitch.
said path, so as to form a more shallow stitch.
chine could be employed without departing from
The work passes underneath the ?nger 39; be
tween the lines 62 and 43, so that one side face
Cl of the ?nger 30 acts as a guide for the feeding
lized, this pierces the single layer of the work at
of the folded edge of the facing strip,
As shown in Fig. 10, the stitch is formed in
advance of the front end‘ of the ?nger 36‘, and in
advance of the front ends of ?ngers 60 and 60a,
10
which hold the work down upon said ridges 24
and 25. These ?ngers 60 and 60a are preferably
of concavo-convex contour in cross-section, and
their concave faces hold the work down upon
the ridges 24 and 25. As shown in Fig. 41, said
?ngers 6-D and 60a are respectively provided with
bearing portions 70 and 10a which are mounted
suitably and turnably on a pivot pin which is con
nected to extensions of the plate 10. Torsion
springs BI and 61a of the usual type are provided,
so as to urge the ?ngers 26 and 26a towards the
ridges 2d and 25.
.
While I do not wish to be limited to the spe
ci?c contour of the parts, the improved contour
and proportioning and association of the parts
of the attachment are important for best results,
and these details are illustrated in Figs. 12-19 in
clusive.
Figs. 14, 15, and 19 show the preferred shape
of the ?nger 39a. which corresponds to the fin
ger 39 shown in Fig. 10. As shown in Figs. 14
and 15, the bottom surface of the ?nger 30a is
bevelled at ‘H, so as to present a suitable and
very thin bottom edge. The bottom surface of
the ?nger 30a is bevelled in the direction of the
35 ridge 23. Likewise, the ridge 2!‘! is formed with a
shoulder Ma, so that the ridge 25 has an inner
-wall or face of substantially annular shape. which
is perpendicular to the axis of the rib R. As
shown in Fig. 15. the bevelled face ‘H of the
40 ?nger 30a is shaped, so that its height in a direc
tion perpendicular to the axis of the rib, is sub
stantially equal to the height of said inner an
nular face of the ridge 24, and if said ?nger 30a
is moved to the position shown in Fig. 15. the
lines which de?ne the cross-sections of the bev
elled surface ‘H and the inner annular surface of
the ridge 24 and the shoulder 24a. substantially
form the three sides of a right-angled triangle
Figs. 14 and 15 are substantially according to
scale and they show the shape of the rib R and
of the ?nger 30a in full and correct detail. so
that they correspond substantially to working drawings of a preferred embodiment.
‘~
Figs. 18 and 17 also show that the ?ngers iii)
and 60a are of different lengths, the ?nger 60a
being longer than the ?nger 60, as shown in Fig.
13. This allows for the greater thickness of the
cloth when a plurality of superposed layers of the
60
cloth are fed over the ridge 25.
Fig. 19 also shows that the front edge of the
?nger 30 is rearwardly inclined. and that the bot
tom line of the bottom edge of the ?nger 30a is of
general convex contour. Fig. 19 is also accord
ing to scale and represents, in effect, an accu
rate working drawing of the rib R, the ?nger 36a,
and the ?nger 60a.
The improved shape of the parts and their im
proved proportioning, makes it possible to feed
the work to the machine without any binding or
dragging, when the ?nger 30a is adjusted lat
erally, so as to make allowance for di?erent thick
nesses of cloth.
The preferred type of machine is a chain stitch
75 machine, although the invention is not limited
the invention.
A lock~stitch ma
If a chain stitch machine is uti
the points 42a, and it pierces the folded part of
the facing strip at the points Ma.
The chain stitch is elastic, so that after the
work has been completed, the fair side of the
coat or other garment does not exhibit any wrin
kle or indentation and the garment has the same
appearance as though the expensive hand work
had been used.
‘
'
Due to the convex shape of the bottom edge
of the ?nger 30a, only a very small part of said
underside of the ?nger 30a contacts with the top
surface of the cloth, intermediate the ridges M
and 43. Likewise the deep concave shape of the
rib between the ?ngers 2A1 and 25 prevents the
work from binding or dragging between the ?nger
30a and the intermediate portion 26 of the rib. 20
Likewise the angular shape of the rib 2i, which
is provided by the shoulder 241a, prevents the
work from dragging along the inner edge of said
rib 2t. As shown more particularly in Fig. 17,
the natural hang of the cloth and the shoulder
211a prevent any contact between the downward
bight of the cloth, and the inner surface of the
ridge 213.
It will be noted that Fig. 15 illustrates an ex
treme position of the rib. in order to illustrate
the contour of the parts. but that in actual prac
tice. the extreme position of the ?nger 30a is
better shown in Fig. 16. However, the tapered
con?guration of the ?nger 30a. prevents the work
from being crowded into the angle between the ‘*
inner annular surface of the rib 211, and the shoul
der 240.. This is clearly illustrated in
16.
As shown in Fig. 8, two bights are formed in the
layer of material 28. which may be designated as
the ?rst piece of fabric. One of these bights, 40
indicated by the reference numeral 112. is later~
ally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge
of the superposed layers of material 21 and 21a.
The other bight. which is formed by the member
25, is under said layers of material 21 and 21a,
and this second bight is spaced inwardly from the
folded edge which is identi?ed by the reference
numeral 43.
By regulating the lateral distance between the
bight in the fabric, 28, and the folded edge of
the layers 21 and 21a,‘a true blind stitch can be
formed which is invisible upon the fair side of
the work.
~
-
I have shown preferred‘ embodiments of my in
vention. but it is clear that numerous changes and
omissions could be made without departing from
its spirit.
The rib R shown herein is of the type which~
does not contact with the work while it is being
fed by the feed-dog. Said rib is moved into op 60
erative position after the feed has been completed.
I do not wish to be limited to this detail.
As shown in Figs. 8 and 9, a bight or fold is
formed in the body of the garment by‘ ridge 2d,
and a much more shallow bight is formed in the G5
body of the coat by ridge 25. The folded edge of
the facing has no bight, or a very shallow bight
is formed therein.
The machine may be used for performing any
class of work.
.
70
For convenience, and to de?ne the invention
generically, the body of the garment may be des
ignated as the ?rst piece of cloth, and the facing
strip can be designated as the second piece of
cloth. That portion of the facing strip which is 75
4
.
_
2,108,101
folded along line 43 may be designated ‘as the‘
fold portion of said strip.
In the preferred method of operation, the ef
to a ?rst piece of fabric and while the second
piece of fabric is on top of the ?rst piece of
fabric, vwhich consists in folding the second piece
fective ‘surface of the rib is lowered so that the of fabric so that it has two superposed layers
feed-dog can feed the work forwardly with little located one above the other and above the ?rst’
or no friction, because the underside’ of the ?nger piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower
30 or' itavcontacts with the body of the garment, ' than the under layer, forming two bights in the
along only a very small area. At this point the ?rst piece of fabric, the ?rst bight being later~
cloth of the body of ‘the garment may either be ally and outwardly spaced from the foldedf edge
10 spaced from the portion 25 of the rib, or else the of said layers, the other bight being under said
cloth of the body of the garment may make very layers, and forming connectingblind- stitches in
light contact with a small part of the bottom edge the ?rst piece of fabric and in the folded portion
of the ?nger 30a andthe adijacent'small part of ' of the second piece of fabric, by passing thread
the intermediate portion 26 of the rib. After the " through the material of said ?rst bight inter
mediate the faces of said ?rst piece of fabric and 15
feeding stroke has been completed, the rib is op
erated so. as to raise the cloth relative to the throughv the second piece of fabric substantially
slot Illa. of the plate In, so that the needle can at the folded edge thereof, said blind stitches be-'
ing formed su?iciently close to the edge of the
o'perate as shown in Fig. 8 and in Fig. 9. How
ever, various devices can be used, in addition to top layer of the second piece of fabric so that the
20 the rib described herein, in order to do this class top layer of the second piece of fabricwill lie 20
of work without departing from the invention. In against the ?rst piece of fabric when said top
particular,_while the ridges 24 and 25 are each layer of the second piece of fabric is released to
_
of uniform radius, I do. not wish to be limited to assume its normal position.
3. A method of sewing a second. piece of fabric
25 'As shown in Fig. 1'7, for example, the rib is to a ?rst piece of fabric and while the second 25
shaped intermediate the ridges 24 and 25, so that piece of fabric is on top of the ?rst piece of
the work can hang freely between said ridges 24 fabric, which consists infolding the second piece
.and 25 and without any substantial contact or of fabric so that it has two superposed layers
located .one above ,the other and above the ?rst
v30
For the purposes of the invention, it is to'be piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower .30
noted that the work can be de?nedas hanging than the under layer, forming two bights in they
this
detail.
friction.
-
-
-
-
-
'
i
~
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?rst piece of fabric, the ?rst bight being late
erally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge
of said layers, the other bight being under said
concave contour (in cross-section) between the - layers, and forming connecting b'lind' stitches in 35
ridges 24,and 25, said intermediate portion 26 of the ?rst piece of fabric and in the folded portion
the rib has a change in contour adjacent the of the second piece of fabric, by passing thread
through the material of the ?rst bight interme-'
inner edge of the ridge 24. '
.
The periphery of shoulder 24a is substantially diate the faces of said ?rst piece of fabric and
40 annular, and the transverse elements of said also through the second piece of fabric substan 40
tially at the- folded edge of said layers, said
periphery are substantially straight lines or con
stitches being su?iciently elastic to prevent the
vex in contour.
,
,
' .
freely between said ridges 24» and 25, if the work
can be fed ‘forwardly. without dragging. Like‘
wise, while the portion 26 of the rib is mainly of
'
45
This is a division of application Serial No.
134,470, ?led April 2, 1937 for Sewing machine
and method of sewing.
I claim:
-
‘
I
-
' 1. A method of sewing a second piece of fabric
, to a ?rst piece of fabric and while the second
piece of fabric is on top of the ?rst piece of
50 fabric, which consists in folding the second piece
of fabric so that it has two superposed layers lo
.cated ,one above the other and above the ?rst
piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower
than the under layer, forming. two bights in the
55 ?rst piece of‘ fabric, the ?rst bight being later
formation of a wrinkle at the fair surface 'of said
?rst piece of fabric.
/ -
4. A method of tacking a facing strip to a body
portion of a garment, which consists in sewing
the body portion to the-facing strip at the edges
of said body portion and of said facing strip,
turning the facing strip inwardly so that it over
lies the body portion and also folding the facing 50
strip so as to provide two superposed layers
thereof which are located above the body portion,
said layers being of different widths and the
narrower layer being above the wider layer, the
free edge of said narrower layer being the free
edge of the facing strip, forming a bight in the
ally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge
of said layers, the‘ other bight being under said body portion ong a line which is outwardly and
layers, and forming connecting blind stitches in laterally spaced from the folded edge of the lay
ers of the facing strip, and then forming blind
the ?rst piece of fabric and in the folded por
60 tion of the second piece of fabric, by passing ,stitches which 'are invisible at the fair side of 60
thread through the material of said ?rst bight the fabric through the material of the body por
intermediate the faces of said ?rst piece of fabric tion at said bight and through the layers of the
and through the second piece of fabric at ‘the T facing strip at ‘the folded edge of said layers.
folded edge thereof.
65
MARIO Bu0No. 65
2. A method of sewing a\second piece of fabric. '
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