Патент USA US2108101код для вставки
Feb. 15, 1938. 2,108,101 M. BUONO METHOD OF SEWING ' Original Filed April 2, ‘1937 ~ 47 16a 4 Sheets-Sheet‘ 1 19 21a 20 7 ig: 4 ‘cm/612m ' _ ORNE Y5 Feb. 15, 1938. _ M. BUONO ' 2,108,101 METHOD OF SEWING Original Filed April 2, 1957 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 ENTOR BY Feb. 15, 1938. M_ BUONQ 2,108,101 METHOD OF SEWING _ Original Filed April 2, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 _ NVENTOR mm 76% TTORNE VS Feb. 15, 1938. 2,108,101 M. BUONO METHOD OF SEWING Original Filed April 2 , 1957 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 VENTOR Patented Feb. 15, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT‘ OFFICE 2,108,101 METHOD OF SEWING Mario Buono, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to U. S. Blind Stitch Machine‘Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Original application April 2, 1937, Serial No. 134, 470. Divided and this application August 13, 1937, Serial No. 158,898 4vClaims. (Cl. 112-267) This invention relates to a new and improved method of sewing. One of the objects of my invention is to provide a method which can be practiced by apply 5 ing an attachment to well known blind-stitch machines of the type which have a curved nee dle, which is caused to oscillate, although the in vention is not limited to any particular type of blind-stitch sewing machine. 10 Another object of my invention is to provide an improved method which will perform the class of work which is known as “tacking”, so as to eliminate the necessity of the hand labor which has heretofore been employed for this 15 class of work, and to produce an improved “tack mg”. I Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate various preferred embodiments thereof, 20 it being understood that the above statement of the objects of the invention, is intended generally to explain the same, and without limiting it in on the usual oscillating shaft 3. The usual curved Fig. 1 is a side elevation showing the essential parts of a blind-stitch sewing machine of con ventional construction, to which an attachment has been applied for carrying out the improved needle 4 is connected to said needle-holder 2. . Fig. 1 also shows the well known looper 5, the looper rod 1, and the yoke B for said looper-rod l. The looper 5 is detachably connected in the well known manner to an extension ‘la of the looper _ Fig. 2 is a front elevation of Fig. 1. ' , rod 7. The yoke 6 is pivotally mounted at 8 in the . Fig. 3 is a plan view on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is an elevation, on the line 4-4 of Fig. 1. Fig. 5 is a sectional view, partially in eleva tion on the line 5-5 of Fig. 3. . Fig. 6 is a sectional View, partially in elevation, usual manner. According to my invention, I'provide an im proved rib member R, which will be later de scribed in detail. Said improved member R is mounted upon the rib-shaft 9, and said shaft 9 on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3. Fig. '7 is a sectional view on the line 1-—l of is Caused to oscillate in the usual manner. Fig. 3. plate l0, which is rigidly connected to the head i, by means of the yoke II. This yoke H may be integral with the plate ID. _ Figs. 8 and 9 are detail end elevations, largely diagrammatic, and showing the adjustment of the means for regulating the stitch and for mak ing allowancefor different thicknesses of cloth. Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic detail perspective view showing the means for regulating the stitch. Fig. 11 is a perspective view illustrating the 45 improved stitch. 1 Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 5, and showing a modi?cation of the invention. \ Fig. 13 is a sectional view on the line l3—-l3 of Fig. 12. ' I Figs. 14 and 15 are detail sectional views, show ing the operation of the means for regulating the stitch, in the embodiment of Fig. 12. Fig.~14 is a View which is generally similar to 55 According to my invention, the facing strip is connected to the body of the coat, inwardly of the edge of the coat, by blind stitches, so as to pro vide ‘an improved stitch connection. Referring to Fig. 1, this shows the head i of the machine, and the needle-holder 2, mounted any manner. method. 5O different position. Fig. 15 is a sectional view on the line l5-_l5 of Fig. 12. Figs. 16 and 17 are diagrammatic detail views, illustrating the regulation of the stitch, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 12. Fig. 18 is a sectional view, partially in elevation, on the line |8-I8 of Fig. 12. Fig. 19 is a sectional view on the line Ill-I9 of Fig. 18. Although the invention is not limited to the manufacture of coats, it will be described in con nection with such manufacture, as an example. In making women’s cloth coats, it has been known for many years to provide cloth facings at the separated longitudinal edges of the front 15 Walls of the coats. Fig. 15, but showing the regulating ?nger in a 30 The machine is also provided with the usual rigid The machine is also provided with the usual feed dog I2 which is actuated in the usual man her, so as to have the usual four-motion relative to the rigid plate l0. As shown in Fig. 3, the plate ID is provided with the usual slot Hla, in which the feed dog l2 can operate. 45 The work is generally designated by the refer ence letter W. Prior to ?nally sewing the work by means of , my improved method, the body 28 of the coat is sewed along one of its frontedges to the facing. 50 strip 21, by .means of through-and-through, stitches S. The facing is then turned in the usual manner so as to conceal the raw seam which has been formed by stitches S. The outer-edge por @1011 of facing strip 211 can be connected to the 55 2,108,101 . _ 1 body portion of the coat by means of the conven tional basting stitches, close to the line of stitches S. These basting stitches are not shown, since they are well-known and they are pulled out of the garment, after it has been ?nished. The use of basting stitches can be omitted. ridge 24. As shown in Figs. 8 and 9 for example, only a single layer of fabric is bent to form a bight, by the ridge 24, and the three layers of the work are supported by ridge 25, when the stitch is formed. While the invention is not limited to 5 The inner edge of the facing strip is now bent the particular class of work illustrated in Figs. 8, 9, and 11, the greater number of layers of the ma towards its outer edge, so as to form a top layer terial are fed over the ridge of smaller diameter. Y 210. of the facing strip. Part of the work then consists of the single 10 As shown in Fig. 7, the regulating ?nger 30 is provided with a lateral arm 3|. Said lateral arm 10 layer of cloth of the body 28, and part of the work consists ‘of three layers of cloth, namely, the body 3| is movable laterally, without turning, in a guide 32. Said guide 32 has an angular plate 33, 28, facing strip 21, and the top layer 21a of said facing strip. The top layer~21a can be made of which can be connected detachably by means of a screw or the like, to the ‘upper surface of the“ any suitable width, but it is preferably much nar plate It), and which is connected to the box-like 15 rower than the remainder of said facing strip. I guide 32 in any suitable manner. . The lateral arm 3| of the ?nger 30 is provided (with an integral lug 34. As shown in Fig. 3 and possible. ' The auxiliary device shown in Figs. 3 and 4 Fig, 18, said lug 34 can be provided with .a tapped 20' may be used in assisting the operator to form bore, and an adjusting screw 35 is located within said top layer 21a in an accurate and even manner. saidv tapped bore. The adjusting screw 35 is prefer to make said top layer 21a as narrow as Figs. 3 and 4 show a table 50 which is located mounted in a bearing 35a, which is provided in in front of the sewing machine. This table 58 the extension of the plate 33. The screw 35 is provided with a knurled head 36,. A spring 31, may be ?xed or it may be vertically adjustable. Said table 58 supports a laterally adjustable which is connectedto the extension of the plate 25 33, holds the knurled head 36 yieldably in position. metal gauge plate 5|. Said plate 5| may be sup ported on top of a bushing 52, which is connected) Hence, by operating the knurled head 36, the to table 50. As shown in Fig. 3, plate 5| has a ?nger 30 may be shifted laterally, or in a direction transverse slot 53. A clamping screw 54 clamps transverse to the direction in which the work is 30 plate 5| to bushing 52. The lateral slot 53 makes fed through the machine. _ ' Referring to Fig. 8 and Fig. 9, these can be best it possible to adjust said plate 5| so as to allow described with reference to a reference line 40.. for facings of different widths, and to make it pos in Fig. 8, one lateral position of the ?nger 30 is in sible to fold a facing along any desired line. The cloth is fed between the bottom surface of dicated in broken lines by the reference numeral 35 the rigid plate l0 and the usual ?ngers ~|4, which ‘48a. In Fig. 9 another lateral position of the 1m- _ yieldably support the work. These ?ngers l4 are ger 38 is indicated by the reference numeral 40hr It can be seen that the ?nger 30 can be adjusted pivotally mounted at [5 to the arms of ?nger supports 22. The rib R, and certain other essential laterally so as to vary the distance between said parts of the device, all of which are located under ?nger “hand the ridges 24 and 25. _ ‘ The adjustment shown in Fig. 9, in which the 40 40 neath the rigid plate ID, are connected to an ex tension of the housing I6. Said housing I6 is ?nger 38 is moved close to the ridge 25, .is in turnably mounted in the usual‘ manner, so that tended to adjust themachine for sewing thin the machine can be adjusted for cloth of di?’erent goods. The position of the ?nger 30 which is in-_ dicated in Fig. 8, shows the position which ‘is thicknesses. As shown in Fig. 1, the sewing ma 45 chine is provided with the usual base l6a, having . suitable for sewing thick goods. It will be noted an upright-?ange H. The housing I6 is provided that the curved needle 4 oscillates in- the usual with the usual spring (not shown) .' A screw I8 manner, along a, recess 4| in the plate l0. As is mounted in the lug I9 ‘of the housing l8, and shown in Fig. 8, the needle passes through the said screw I8 is provided with the usual lock nut cloth at the bight 42, which has been formed by " The end of the screw l8 can abut the ?ange means of the ridge 24, so that a blind-stitch is 50 v50 20. l1, so as to limit the turning of the housing l6, formed which is invisible at either face of the under the force of its associated spring, so that body of the garment. The needle ‘also passes the distance of the rib below the plate Hi can be through the fold of the facing strip, at the line adjusted. ‘An adjusting screw 2|a is provided for _ 43, so as to form ablindI-stitch which is invisible 55 regulating the force of the spring which is con at ‘the inner face of the facing strip, when the 55 nected to the housing l6. . layer 21a is free to assume its normal position,_ As shown in Fig. 1, the'machine also has the close to body 28. _ . usual springs 2|, which are connected to the sup— After the tacking operation‘ has been completed, ports 22 for the ?ngers l4. These supports 22 are the natural resilience of the cloth causes the 60 pivotally mounted at 23, and since the ?ngers l4 turned or folded portion of the facing strip to turn 60 are connected turnably at l5 to arms of said sup back to normal positionk‘so that the entire fac ports 22, said ?ngers | 4 can turn relative to said ing strip lies against the body of the coat, and supports 22. ~ > the facing strip is held to the body of the coat As shown in Figs. 8, 9, 14, 15, 16, and 17, the by invisible stitches. 65 improved rib-member R is provided with sepa If the machine is adjusted as shown in Fig. 8, 65 rated ridges 24 and 25, separated by an interme in order to sew relatively thick goods, and the diate portion 26, which ‘has a general concave same adjustment is maintained in sewing rela tively thin goods, the stitch will show at the in As the-work W is fed through the machine, a side of the facing along the line43, when the work 70 part‘ of the body 28 of the garment is fed between -is completed. However, if the ?nger 30 is shifted 70 the underside of a regulating ?nger 30 or 3011, and closer to the ridge 25, and the fold of facing a part of the intermediate portion 26 of the im strip at line 43 is formed closer to said ridge 25, proved rib E. This regulating ?nger 38 or 35a the stitch is regulated so as .to form a blind constitutes a part of the-improvement. stitch along the line 43, because the folded edge .75 The ridge 25 is of smaller diameter than the of the facing strip intersects the path of move- ‘ contour. ~ ‘ ' \ 3 2,108,101 ment of the curved needle, at a higher part of to the use of a chain stitch. said path, so as to form a more shallow stitch. chine could be employed without departing from The work passes underneath the ?nger 39; be tween the lines 62 and 43, so that one side face Cl of the ?nger 30 acts as a guide for the feeding lized, this pierces the single layer of the work at of the folded edge of the facing strip, As shown in Fig. 10, the stitch is formed in advance of the front end‘ of the ?nger 36‘, and in advance of the front ends of ?ngers 60 and 60a, 10 which hold the work down upon said ridges 24 and 25. These ?ngers 60 and 60a are preferably of concavo-convex contour in cross-section, and their concave faces hold the work down upon the ridges 24 and 25. As shown in Fig. 41, said ?ngers 6-D and 60a are respectively provided with bearing portions 70 and 10a which are mounted suitably and turnably on a pivot pin which is con nected to extensions of the plate 10. Torsion springs BI and 61a of the usual type are provided, so as to urge the ?ngers 26 and 26a towards the ridges 2d and 25. . While I do not wish to be limited to the spe ci?c contour of the parts, the improved contour and proportioning and association of the parts of the attachment are important for best results, and these details are illustrated in Figs. 12-19 in clusive. Figs. 14, 15, and 19 show the preferred shape of the ?nger 39a. which corresponds to the fin ger 39 shown in Fig. 10. As shown in Figs. 14 and 15, the bottom surface of the ?nger 30a is bevelled at ‘H, so as to present a suitable and very thin bottom edge. The bottom surface of the ?nger 30a is bevelled in the direction of the 35 ridge 23. Likewise, the ridge 2!‘! is formed with a shoulder Ma, so that the ridge 25 has an inner -wall or face of substantially annular shape. which is perpendicular to the axis of the rib R. As shown in Fig. 15. the bevelled face ‘H of the 40 ?nger 30a is shaped, so that its height in a direc tion perpendicular to the axis of the rib, is sub stantially equal to the height of said inner an nular face of the ridge 24, and if said ?nger 30a is moved to the position shown in Fig. 15. the lines which de?ne the cross-sections of the bev elled surface ‘H and the inner annular surface of the ridge 24 and the shoulder 24a. substantially form the three sides of a right-angled triangle Figs. 14 and 15 are substantially according to scale and they show the shape of the rib R and of the ?nger 30a in full and correct detail. so that they correspond substantially to working drawings of a preferred embodiment. ‘~ Figs. 18 and 17 also show that the ?ngers iii) and 60a are of different lengths, the ?nger 60a being longer than the ?nger 60, as shown in Fig. 13. This allows for the greater thickness of the cloth when a plurality of superposed layers of the 60 cloth are fed over the ridge 25. Fig. 19 also shows that the front edge of the ?nger 30 is rearwardly inclined. and that the bot tom line of the bottom edge of the ?nger 30a is of general convex contour. Fig. 19 is also accord ing to scale and represents, in effect, an accu rate working drawing of the rib R, the ?nger 36a, and the ?nger 60a. The improved shape of the parts and their im proved proportioning, makes it possible to feed the work to the machine without any binding or dragging, when the ?nger 30a is adjusted lat erally, so as to make allowance for di?erent thick nesses of cloth. The preferred type of machine is a chain stitch 75 machine, although the invention is not limited the invention. A lock~stitch ma If a chain stitch machine is uti the points 42a, and it pierces the folded part of the facing strip at the points Ma. The chain stitch is elastic, so that after the work has been completed, the fair side of the coat or other garment does not exhibit any wrin kle or indentation and the garment has the same appearance as though the expensive hand work had been used. ‘ ' Due to the convex shape of the bottom edge of the ?nger 30a, only a very small part of said underside of the ?nger 30a contacts with the top surface of the cloth, intermediate the ridges M and 43. Likewise the deep concave shape of the rib between the ?ngers 2A1 and 25 prevents the work from binding or dragging between the ?nger 30a and the intermediate portion 26 of the rib. 20 Likewise the angular shape of the rib 2i, which is provided by the shoulder 241a, prevents the work from dragging along the inner edge of said rib 2t. As shown more particularly in Fig. 17, the natural hang of the cloth and the shoulder 211a prevent any contact between the downward bight of the cloth, and the inner surface of the ridge 213. It will be noted that Fig. 15 illustrates an ex treme position of the rib. in order to illustrate the contour of the parts. but that in actual prac tice. the extreme position of the ?nger 30a is better shown in Fig. 16. However, the tapered con?guration of the ?nger 30a. prevents the work from being crowded into the angle between the ‘* inner annular surface of the rib 211, and the shoul der 240.. This is clearly illustrated in 16. As shown in Fig. 8, two bights are formed in the layer of material 28. which may be designated as the ?rst piece of fabric. One of these bights, 40 indicated by the reference numeral 112. is later~ ally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge of the superposed layers of material 21 and 21a. The other bight. which is formed by the member 25, is under said layers of material 21 and 21a, and this second bight is spaced inwardly from the folded edge which is identi?ed by the reference numeral 43. By regulating the lateral distance between the bight in the fabric, 28, and the folded edge of the layers 21 and 21a,‘a true blind stitch can be formed which is invisible upon the fair side of the work. ~ - I have shown preferred‘ embodiments of my in vention. but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions could be made without departing from its spirit. The rib R shown herein is of the type which~ does not contact with the work while it is being fed by the feed-dog. Said rib is moved into op 60 erative position after the feed has been completed. I do not wish to be limited to this detail. As shown in Figs. 8 and 9, a bight or fold is formed in the body of the garment by‘ ridge 2d, and a much more shallow bight is formed in the G5 body of the coat by ridge 25. The folded edge of the facing has no bight, or a very shallow bight is formed therein. The machine may be used for performing any class of work. . 70 For convenience, and to de?ne the invention generically, the body of the garment may be des ignated as the ?rst piece of cloth, and the facing strip can be designated as the second piece of cloth. That portion of the facing strip which is 75 4 . _ 2,108,101 folded along line 43 may be designated ‘as the‘ fold portion of said strip. In the preferred method of operation, the ef to a ?rst piece of fabric and while the second piece of fabric is on top of the ?rst piece of fabric, vwhich consists in folding the second piece fective ‘surface of the rib is lowered so that the of fabric so that it has two superposed layers feed-dog can feed the work forwardly with little located one above the other and above the ?rst’ or no friction, because the underside’ of the ?nger piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower 30 or' itavcontacts with the body of the garment, ' than the under layer, forming two bights in the along only a very small area. At this point the ?rst piece of fabric, the ?rst bight being later~ cloth of the body of ‘the garment may either be ally and outwardly spaced from the foldedf edge 10 spaced from the portion 25 of the rib, or else the of said layers, the other bight being under said cloth of the body of the garment may make very layers, and forming connectingblind- stitches in light contact with a small part of the bottom edge the ?rst piece of fabric and in the folded portion of the ?nger 30a andthe adijacent'small part of ' of the second piece of fabric, by passing thread the intermediate portion 26 of the rib. After the " through the material of said ?rst bight inter mediate the faces of said ?rst piece of fabric and 15 feeding stroke has been completed, the rib is op erated so. as to raise the cloth relative to the throughv the second piece of fabric substantially slot Illa. of the plate In, so that the needle can at the folded edge thereof, said blind stitches be-' ing formed su?iciently close to the edge of the o'perate as shown in Fig. 8 and in Fig. 9. How ever, various devices can be used, in addition to top layer of the second piece of fabric so that the 20 the rib described herein, in order to do this class top layer of the second piece of fabricwill lie 20 of work without departing from the invention. In against the ?rst piece of fabric when said top particular,_while the ridges 24 and 25 are each layer of the second piece of fabric is released to _ of uniform radius, I do. not wish to be limited to assume its normal position. 3. A method of sewing a second. piece of fabric 25 'As shown in Fig. 1'7, for example, the rib is to a ?rst piece of fabric and while the second 25 shaped intermediate the ridges 24 and 25, so that piece of fabric is on top of the ?rst piece of the work can hang freely between said ridges 24 fabric, which consists infolding the second piece .and 25 and without any substantial contact or of fabric so that it has two superposed layers located .one above ,the other and above the ?rst v30 For the purposes of the invention, it is to'be piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower .30 noted that the work can be de?nedas hanging than the under layer, forming two bights in they this detail. friction. - - - - - ' i ~ ' - - ?rst piece of fabric, the ?rst bight being late erally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge of said layers, the other bight being under said concave contour (in cross-section) between the - layers, and forming connecting b'lind' stitches in 35 ridges 24,and 25, said intermediate portion 26 of the ?rst piece of fabric and in the folded portion the rib has a change in contour adjacent the of the second piece of fabric, by passing thread through the material of the ?rst bight interme-' inner edge of the ridge 24. ' . The periphery of shoulder 24a is substantially diate the faces of said ?rst piece of fabric and 40 annular, and the transverse elements of said also through the second piece of fabric substan 40 tially at the- folded edge of said layers, said periphery are substantially straight lines or con stitches being su?iciently elastic to prevent the vex in contour. , , ' . freely between said ridges 24» and 25, if the work can be fed ‘forwardly. without dragging. Like‘ wise, while the portion 26 of the rib is mainly of ' 45 This is a division of application Serial No. 134,470, ?led April 2, 1937 for Sewing machine and method of sewing. I claim: - ‘ I - ' 1. A method of sewing a second piece of fabric , to a ?rst piece of fabric and while the second piece of fabric is on top of the ?rst piece of 50 fabric, which consists in folding the second piece of fabric so that it has two superposed layers lo .cated ,one above the other and above the ?rst piece of fabric, the upper layer being narrower than the under layer, forming. two bights in the 55 ?rst piece of‘ fabric, the ?rst bight being later formation of a wrinkle at the fair surface 'of said ?rst piece of fabric. / - 4. A method of tacking a facing strip to a body portion of a garment, which consists in sewing the body portion to the-facing strip at the edges of said body portion and of said facing strip, turning the facing strip inwardly so that it over lies the body portion and also folding the facing 50 strip so as to provide two superposed layers thereof which are located above the body portion, said layers being of different widths and the narrower layer being above the wider layer, the free edge of said narrower layer being the free edge of the facing strip, forming a bight in the ally and outwardly spaced from the folded edge of said layers, the‘ other bight being under said body portion ong a line which is outwardly and layers, and forming connecting blind stitches in laterally spaced from the folded edge of the lay ers of the facing strip, and then forming blind the ?rst piece of fabric and in the folded por 60 tion of the second piece of fabric, by passing ,stitches which 'are invisible at the fair side of 60 thread through the material of said ?rst bight the fabric through the material of the body por intermediate the faces of said ?rst piece of fabric tion at said bight and through the layers of the and through the second piece of fabric at ‘the T facing strip at ‘the folded edge of said layers. folded edge thereof. 65 MARIO Bu0No. 65 2. A method of sewing a\second piece of fabric. '