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Патент USA US2113954

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April 12, 1938'.
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WELT
‘ I
H. L. SUTCLIFFE
SHOE
AND
METHOD
OF
MAKING
Filed ‘April :50, 1936
* 2,113,954
SAME
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INVENTOR
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“ “ April 12, 1938.]
I ' II-LLQSUTC‘LIFFE ’
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2,113,954
vn-zm' sacs 1m» lamnob ,oF MAKING sum
Filed April 30, 1936
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INVENTOR‘
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ATTORNEY
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Patented Aprtglz‘, 1938 '
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This invention
“ _ relatesito
I, f welted
‘Attracts
‘
1' shoe
schism;
construe-f
ham, (cue-+7142)
mew net-1.16s“ I
‘
between the stitches to further increase thefilexv
tions a'ndto' the methodslby ‘which they are made. ibility ‘of the shoe.: Other and .further v“Objects
‘ Thegeneraladvantages vof welt shoes, including
their superior .shapeholding, fitting,‘ and rugged
wearing ‘qualities, are‘too'well known to require‘
will appear from the ‘jfollowing speci?cation; ,
, Referringtothe ,dra'wings'which form a part
more than brief mention. H'oweventhe same
oi
. Figural
thisspeci?cation:
is a'planvlew
,
of
r <a lip channeled
.
_ insole '
structural characteristics‘ which. obtain \ these‘ ad--‘
prepared .in‘accordance with my invention.__ _‘ a
“vantages have also‘ been responsible for, their
greater weight and relative stillness compared to
otheritypesofshoes.
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9
I
‘
.
,
‘
In making welt shoes it has’for many years
been the standard practice to attach the margins
of the ‘upper partsandthetwelt-byin'seam stitch
lug to theroot of an integral rib extendingfrom
the margin ofthe‘insolathe‘ribzbeing formed by
a pair of channel: leaves ‘.or lips erected from the
surface of theinsoleandausually supplemented
byithe marginal portion of a'ifabrici-insole re
enforcement. ‘ The.‘ resulting. structure is there
fore characterized; by a‘ ;-wide ‘ iririge' " comprising
five or six plies of material which project ‘from
the inseam on the ?eshyvside‘ of ‘the insole and,
form a‘ stiff , wall. betweenxthe sole members;v the
.plies comprising the inner'margins of the welt
‘and of the, upper- and ‘its lining.v the‘ channel
2 leaves or lips, and the outer margin of the fabric
reenforcement.- 'I have found that this ridge is
‘ the principal factor mitigating
in welted constructionasm -
1.
against ?exibility
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l
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Figure v2~ isa longitudinal edgeelevationof the, ‘
insole prepared asshowninrlgurel.
‘7 y -, v
,Flgure 3 is a sectional view of thefinsoleémargin
takenonlinel-Jofli‘igurel,
‘ Flgurea 'is-a‘, anview showing ,‘the' insole,
r L the
»
welt and the upper parts assembled together on‘
a last, the lip members and between substance of‘
the insole, ‘being. transversely slashed ,between l5
the shoemore ?exible.‘
‘
,
,
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I
V
a
a
. ,Figure5 isa sectional viewtaken on ‘line,
‘oi'FigureL,
; Figure 6 is aperspeetive View. partly in section;
illustrating the manner in which the slash cuts *
may‘ be formed progressively as the
is
sewn.
‘
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t
Figure’! is a see one! view showingthe rela-v
tionshipgoi'theassembled parts after the inseam
trimming operation has been performed.
7 - >_
c Figure 18 is a cross sectional view of the lasted
shoe with the outsolevattached, taken thru slash
cuts at orabout line, Hof Figure 4. v
,
'
~ Figure 9 is a perspective view of the ?nished
I ‘ ‘3o . ‘It is a. principal object"ofgmyinventionytherp;
fore, to provide.‘
improved gwelt ._ shoe . havin': ' shoe transversely divided at the forepart to show
fewer. plies of material ‘projecting perpendicularly
I from the " inseam, , and an improvedushoemaking
‘ method for obtainingrthis structuralaimprove
ment.
.
.
‘ »To compensate for, the marginal ridge between
the sole members, it has ‘long been customary to
assemble ?ller material between them at the fore;
part of the shoe‘ inwardly ofl'the inseam. Such‘
material contributes to deprive-the shoe of flexi
bility, adds to the weightofthe shoe bottom, and
tionxto disclose the relation of the box
ree
enforcement tothe other parts of the shoe.
. In carrying outmy invention 1. provide a round
ed insole “which is lipped and channeled tor
wardly of the‘ heel entirely about the shank and
forepart marginaproviding an inner channel leaf
ii, and an outer-marginal lip' H. The channel‘is ;
\ opened in‘ the
manner and the lip i1 is,
rolled back and adhesively secured over the be- ‘
tween substance I! located between the rootsof
‘ginal shoulder 20 having height approximately
Another .principal object of ~ my invention,
, therefore, isto providean improved, welt shoe
‘in which all parts projecting ‘at the inseam will
‘terminate ?ush with the lower surface of the in
‘ sole, thereby providing a smooth :and solid bot
tom, devoid of fiIIerLcreasea-gutters or ridges.
Afurther object is‘to provide an improved shoe
‘in which‘ the foreging objects are attained and
5 65
the inseam, construction in, cross section, a part
of. the upper-being broken away at the toe por
is a frequent sourceof discomfort to the‘ wearer‘
wise displaced.
.
80
if the material'is injudiciouslyx'selected or im- ,
properly assembled, or if-for other reasons it be
45 comeswrinkledr-unevenly compacted, or other
in which the inseam rib is transversely slashed
f
stitches of the inseam to render the forepart-‘of
the members‘ ll and I'I,Ythereby ‘forming 9, mar
double the-thickness of the lip "and exposing
a marginal feather II. I maythen adhesively
secure a layer of fabric". such as canvas or
duck,: to the channeled surface of the insole, the
margins of the fabric extending. to‘ face and‘ re- iii
enforce the leaf. “and overextending‘the'edges '
of the leaf substantially as shown.
" y
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After the" lip is turned back, I prefer, to reduce
the feather‘ “about the toe portion 22 of the
insole, as best illustrated in Figure 2, to compen
i
2
.
2,118,954
1
sate for the greater thickness of the upper parts the reenforced surface of the insole, substantially
occasioned by the insertion of the usual box toe parallel with the bottom of the last but safely
reenforcement 31. The reduced portion of the above the inseam stitching 42, a portion of the
feather merges with the unreduced portions lip l‘l being removed by the trimming cutter so
5 thereof on a long slope I!’ so that the varying
thickness of the upper parts adjacent the skived
rearward edge of the box toe reenforcement will
be evenly accommodated.
.
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.H
Prepared as above described, the insole is
10 tacked channeled-'side-up to the bottom of a last
30 and the upper parts are pulled over the last‘
that a smooth and ?ush surface is obtained, as 5
shown in Figure .7. The trimming operation may
be performed by hand or by means of a standard
inseam trimming machine. However, I_ prefer to
employ an inseam trimming machine equipped
as described in the co-?led application of Edward 19
Quinn,'8erial No. 77,105.
onto the feather 2i and agalnstthe shoulder 20 ' '
where they are secured either by temporary last
ing tacks or by staples as in the usual manner
16 of lasting to shouldered sole members. The
upper parts, together with a welt III, are then
.
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It will be observed that by laying down the leaf
ll and the margin of the fabric 23, the number
of the projecting plies ,of material is substantially
reduced in comparison with welt shoes as usually 15
constructed. Also, that the trimmed edges of the
welt and upper parts do not extend above the
extends thru the welt, the upper parts, the be- ' central surface area of the insole, so that there
tween substance and the fabric into the channel are no surface inequalities to be compensated for
20 II, the upper parts including the lining 36 and by filler material. Regarded in one aspect, the g
secured to the insole by inseam stitching 42 which
the box toe‘ reenforcement 31.
seam may be compared to the seam in a shoul
>
The lip I'I turned inland secured against the ‘ der channeled turned shoe wherein: the channel
insole increases the marginal thickness of the
insole and would ordinarily increase the stiffness
28 of the shoe. Therefore, as best‘ shown in Fig
ures 4 and 6, I prefer to make a plurality of
transverse slash cuts 45-4! through the inner
portion of the seam comprising the upstanding
‘edge margin of the fabric insole reenforcement,
30 ‘the channel leaf, the between substance, and the
lip. These slash cuts preferably extend to a‘
depth corresponding to the bottom 'of the inseam
thread and may also extend thru the upper parts.
if desired. However, I prefer not to cut thru the
86 upper parts at the inseam althoughthe sweepof
the slashing blademay pass thru the untrimmed
surplus portions of the upper parts as shown.‘
The cuts 45 are formed progressively as the in
seam is sewn in the manner taught in my co
40 filed application, Serial No. 77,103, ‘a out being
made in advance of each stitch. The procedure
followed is best illustrated in Figure 6 in which a
hand stitched seam is shown in the course of its
formation. 'After the completion .of a stitch, an
45 awl hole is formed for the reception of the next
leaf is closed down over the stitching, although in
such shoes ‘the leaf cannot be adhesivelysecured
in position because of the wet condition in which a
a turn sole is lasted.
a
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The shoe is completed by, securing an outsole
‘I to the welt, asby the outer line of stitching ll,
attaching a heel if, assembling a sock lining BI,
and performing such other usual and necessary a
operations.
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In the finished shoe it will be found that the
outsole lies ?ush under the channel leaf and in
seam aswell as under the welt and the reenforced
insole, no gutters, ridges, or creases existing be- “
tween the sole members and no filler being re
quired or desirable, although a thin layer of mate
rial may be interposed between the sole members
to reduce frictionbetween them or to waterproof
the shoe bottom, any. such layer preferably over- 40
extending the channel leaf. ‘
It will also be noted ‘that, the welt and the
upper parts are all secured‘ to the insole above a
line parallel with the last and coincident with
the lower face of the insole reenforcement, even ‘5
stitch; a transverse slash cut is then made inter- I about the toe portion where the thickness of the
mediate the stitch and the awl hole, whereupon upper parts is increased by the box toe reenforce
the next stitch is formed, and so on entirely about
the inseam or such parts thereof» as may be de
50 sired, any temporary lasting’ tacks being removed.
leaving the seam comparatively stiff ‘throughout
the shank and toe portions where great ?exibility
tively light inseam construction, the shoe is in
herently light and ?exible, its ?exible qualities
being enhanced by the transverse‘slash cuts ex
tending thru the assembled parts at the ball
is neither necessary nor desirable.
portion.
I have illustrated the slash cuts as formed only
~ at the margins of the ball. portion of the shoe,
s5
ment 31, so that the inner surface of the shoe
bottom is evenly supported‘ over its entire area.
Devoid of ?ller material and having a compara
‘
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After the inseam has been sewn‘ and before th
surplus material projecting therefrom has been
trimmed away, the channel leaf ll, together with
the facing marginal portion of the reenforcement
00 23, is cemented down over the stitching‘ to close
the channel It, thereby protecting the inside
stitching and permanently holding the inseam in
position to enhance the shape holding qualities of
the shoe. Because the double thickness of fabric
06 now lies in the channel, the leaf is somewhat fore
.
I desire to have it understood that where the in
sole is not required to be reenforced, the fabric
23 may be entirely dispensed with, in which case
the channel leaf will not'be foreshortened mate
rially and .will ?ll .the channel completely.
so
If desired, the ?exibility and wearing qualities
of the shoe may be further enhanced by employ
ing an insole having a skeletonized forepart and
a complemental out-sole of the type taught in
U. 3. Patent No. 2,012,914 granted to Fred Mac- 05
shortened and its edge will not quite extend to
carone, or as taught in his application Serial No.
fill the portion of the channel from which it was
57,715>filed January 6,1936, such modifications’
being within the scope of the appended claims;
Wherever the “upper" is referred to in the
appended ‘claims itis intended to include any 70
lining, plumping or reinforcing material, and
wherever the‘ “insole" is recited in the claims it is
intended to include any insole reinforcing such
as is commonly employed in making welt shoes.
removed. However, the edge margin of the fabric
23 ,overextending the edge of the leaf will merge
10 into the shallow inner portion ofthe channel,
smoothly filling it as shown in dotted lines in
Figure 5.
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The remaining material projecting from the in
sole at the inseam is then trimmed away on a
1‘ line coincident with the surface of the welt and
I claim:
‘
76
9,118,954
1. A shoe comprising an insole having a mar
ginal lip, a stitch channel extending parallel with
3 .
‘the insole against said shoulder in inseamed re
lation, said stitching being extended into the. ‘
channel, adhesively securing said leaf in the
the lip inwardly thereof, and an integral leaf for
‘ said channel, said lip being turned in against the channel to protect the stitching and to brace the I
5 lower surface of the insole and adhesively se
inseam secured thereby, trimming in a plane 5
cured thereto to form a ?rm ‘marginal shoulder, ‘ coincident with the surfaces of the welt and said
an upper, a‘welt, stitching securing the upper and leaf to remove part of the inturned portion of
welt against saidshouiderand extending into said said lip and to cut off any surplus, of said upper
‘ channel, adhesive securing said leaf in the chan
and welt, and securing an outsole to the welt.
1 ‘ l0 nel to protect the stitching and to brace the‘
a seam secured thereby, the inturned portion of
6. In methods of making‘ welt shoes, that im
provement which comprises ‘providing an'insole
said lip being skived and lying ?ush with said
having an. integral'marginal lip, the lip being‘
turned inwardly and adhesively secured to the
insole to form a ?rm marginal shoulder having
depth greater than the thickness of the- lip,
leaf and with said welt and forming, an integral
marginal ?ller, and an outsole secured to said
15 welt.
‘
2. ,A shoe comprising an insole having a mar- ‘ securing the margins‘of an upper‘ and a welt to
,ginal lip, said lip being turned ‘in against the
lower surface of the insole and adhesively secured
- thereto to form a ?rm marginal shoulder, an
20 ‘upper and a welt secured against said shoulder,
and an outsole secured to the welt, the inturned
portion of said lip of the insole being skived and:v
‘ lying ?ush with the central portion of the lower‘
surface of the insole and with said welt and
‘ 25 forming an integral marginal filler.
the insole against said shoulder, trimming in a“
plane coincident with the surface of the welt‘ and ‘
said leaf to remove part of the inturned portion
of said lip and to cut oil’ any surplus of said
upper an'd welt, and securing an outsole to the
, welt.
g
7. In methods of making weltshoes, that im- "
provement which comprises providing an insole
' having an integral marginal lip turned inwardly
3. A shoe comprising an insole having a mar
and adhesively secured to the insole and forming
ginal lip, a stitch channel extending parallel with a marginal shoulder having depth greater than
the'lip inwardly thereof, and an integral leaf for the thickness of the lip, vsecuring the margins of
said channel, said lip being turned in against the an ‘upper and a welt to the insole against said
30‘ lower surface ‘I of the insoleand adhesively se
shoulder, cutting a plurality of incisions in the
cured thereto to‘ form a ?rm marginal shoulder, margin of the insole said incisions being. extended
an upper, av welt, stitches securing the uppenand . thru said lip andtto the depth of the shoulder, ‘
welt against 1 said shoulder and extending into trimming in a plane coincident with the surface
said channel, adhesive securing said leaf in the of "the welt and said leaf to remove-part-of the
_ . >
‘35 channelfto protect the stitching and to brace ‘ inturned portion of said lip and to cut off any
1 ' the seam secured thereby, the inturned portion
surplus of said upper and welt, and securing an'
‘‘ ‘a of vsaid lip being skived and lying ?ush with said
leaf and with said welt and forming an integral
outsole to the welt.
‘marginal ?ller, said insole ‘having a plurality of
4o slash cuts formed in the lower surface-thereof
having a marginal lip, a stitch channel extend- 1
‘extending outwardlyfrom the ‘bottom of said
ing parallel with ‘the lip inwardly thereof, and
channel and thru the lip between stitches, and
an integral leaf for said channel, the lip being
turned inwardly and adhesively secured to the,
an outsole secured to said welt.
‘
‘
8. In methods of making welt shoes, that im
provement which comprises providing an insole
‘
4. A shoe comprising ‘an insole having a mar- .
45 ginal'lip, said lip being ‘turned in against the lower
insole and forming a marginal shoulder-and a
marginal feather, said feather being reduced 45
surface of the insole and ‘adhesively secured there- . about the toe portion of the insole and merging »
a to to form a ?rm marginal shoulder having height with the unreduced feather on a long “angle cor
‘ greater than the thickness of the lip, an upper responding to the skived edges of a box toe rein
‘ and a welt secured againstsaid shoulder, said forcement, securing the margins of an upper to
‘
‘so insole having a plurality of slash cuts formed
therein‘ extending thru the shouldered portion
thereof and thru said lip, the inturned‘portion
*
of said lip being skived and lying ?ush with the
central portion of the lower surface of the insole
55 and with said welt and forming an integral mar
ginal ?ller, and an outsole secured to said welt.
gether with the box toe'reenforcement and‘ ago
welt to the insole against said shoulder in in- . ~
seamed relation, the stitches of the sewing thread
being extended into- the channel. and cutting a
plurality of slash cuts in the margin of the-in
sole between stitches of the inseam thread, said
‘slash cuts extending?outwardly of the channel 65
thru said lip to a depthcorresponding with the
bottom of the channel, adhesively securing said
‘having a marginal lip, a stitch channel extend-‘f leaf in the channel, trimming in a plane coinci
‘60 ing parallel with the lip inwardly thereof, and dent withv the surface of the welt and said leaf to 60
an integral leaf for said channel, the lip being remove part of the inturned portion of said lip
turned inwardly ‘and adhesively secured to the and to cut oil any surplus of said upper‘ and welt,
. ' 5. In methods of making welt shoes, that im
provement which comprises providing an insole
‘ ‘ ‘
- insole to form a firm marginal shoulder having
and securing an outsole to the welt;
‘
, depth greater than the thickness of the lip,
‘ ‘
05 stitching the margins ofan upper and a welt to
HARRY n s'v'rcm's'n.
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