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Патент USA US2115571

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April 26, 1938.
F. E.. COOPER
GARMENT CUTTING TOOL
Filed July 19, 1957
2,115,571
Patented Apr. 26, 1938
2,115,571
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE
2,115,571
GARMENT CUTTING TOOL
Frank E. Cooper, Independence, M0.
Application July 19, 1937, Serial No. 154,463
3 Claims.
This invention relates to garment manufacture
and particularly to the production of reinforce
duction will be ?rst described. Referring to Fig
ments for the side walls of openings, such as sur
rounding button holes, the ends or corners of
ures 1 and 2, I is a fragment of a cloth or fabric
in which a button hole or the mouth of a pocket
5 the mouth openings of pockets, and the like. The
general object of- the invention is to provide such
openings with double thickness of cloth around
the entire periphery instead of only on two sides
as now commonly practiced with the usual button
10 hole or pocket openings.
A further object of the invention is to produce
a device whereby one or more thicknesses of
fabric, may be cut at a single operation to form
either a button hole or the opening of a pocket,
15 or the like in a garment.
The reinforced opening and its method of pro- ‘
is to be cut. To produce a rectangular opening,
with its opposite end and side margins in par
allelism and of double or reinforced thickness, a
straight slit 2 is made, said slit having its opposite
ends terminating in diverging branch slits 3,
either straight as shown, or they may be curved P10
or semi-circular. The proportions of the slits
are such that four straight lines (dotted in Fig
ure 1) joining the ends of the branch slits 3 will
outline the length and width of the completed
opening, button hole or pocket, desired. The four
Another object of the invention is to produce
cloth ?aps thus produced are now folded back as
a device of this kind which is adjustable over a
in Figure 2, along the dotted lines, the result be
ing the completed opening with its opposite side
wide range for long or short slits, and which will
completely sever the fabric with clean edges and
will maintain its position on the fabric to cut
straight down through superimposed plies of
‘ fabric without departure from a straight line.
A still further object of the invention is to pro
duce a device of this kind which is of strong, dur
25
(Cl. 30-165)
able, eflicient, and inexpensive construction; and
in order that it may be fully understood, refer
ence is to be had to the accompanying drawing,
in which:—
Figure 1 is a plan view of a fragment of cloth
which has been slit or cut in accordance with
3O
the invention.
Figure 2 is a perspective View of the same indi
cating the four ?aps. turned back to provide a
margin of double thickness, the opposite end and.
side walls of the opening being in parallel rela
tion.
Figure 3 is a top- plan view of the device for
cutting or slitting the cloth, illustrated with three
cutting knives.
40 ' Figure 4 is a side elevation of the device with
the center knife shown dotted, and with one end
knife ready for a cutting stroke and the other end
knife in elevated for inoperative position.
Figure 5 is an end view of the device as shown
in‘Figure 4.
‘
Figure 6 is an enlarged section through one of
the knife carrying rods looking down on top ‘of
the arrangement adapted to hold the knives in
inoperative position.
Figure 'l is an enlarged fragmental perspective
through one of the guide standards forminga
part of the invention.
‘ Figure 8 is an enlarged fragmental perspective
of the cutting edge of one of the end knives of
5 Y-shape.
Figure 9 is a fragmental perspective View of the
cutting edge of a Y-knife taken from a different
angle than as shown in Figure 8.
Figure 10 is a side elevation of the third knife
60 forming a part of the invention.
and end walls in parallel relation and of double
thickness (see Figure 2). It will be apparent that
the cloth may be slit by any suitable instrumen
talities, and that the angle formed between the
companion slits 3 and the lengths of said slits,
determines the overall length and width of the
complete opening 4 when the flaps are folded
back as described and illustrated. The ?aps thus 25
provide reinforcements for double stitching on
all sides of the opening.
It is found in the commercial cutting of dress
goods, particularly when it is of silk or silk-like
material, the most practical method of producing
the reinforced opening, is by the use of the tool
or device shown in Figures 3 to 9 inclusive, since
the various slits must be made as a more or less
single operation through the plies of fabric, since 35
any slipping of the plies on each other, or a
shifting or divergence of the cutting tool or its
angle of cut, will result in the slitting of the cloth
in such fashion that when the dresses are com
pleted the position of the pockets or button holes 40
will vary in accordance with the location of that
particular piece of fabric in the pile when it was
cut. To overcome this dif?culty and to insure a
vertical cut, the tool comprises a more or less
weighty base member 5 which is adapted to rest 45
upon the superimposed layers of cloth, perhaps
to the thickness of several inches.
Secured rigidly adjacent one end of the base
plate 5 is an upright standard 6, one convenient
method of mounting the standard being by hav
ing its base portion, 1 overlapped and ?rmly
clamped by a pair of L-shaped clamping mem
bers 8 bolted to the base 5. The upper end of the
standard is offset inwardly and is formed with a
vertically extending head 9 having a vertical bore
or guideway slidingly receiving a rod H. The
lower end of the rod is enlarged in the drawing
as shown as at I2 to detachably receive a gen
erally Y-shaped cutting or miter blade 13, the
branches of the Y being straight as here shown, 60
2
10
2,115,571
but obviously they may be curved or crescent
shaped which preserves the general Y-shape of
the preferred form of the cutting knife, to pro
duce a pair of branch slits in diverging relation
to the line of the center slit as will hereinafter
appear. The upper end of the rod H is formed
in a driving head M, to which mallet blows or
other force may be applied to drive the knife I3
marking the slit to be cut, and said knife in turn
is used to cut the miter down through the pile of
through the fabric. The vertically sliding rod I I
and the guideway [0 having interlocking bayonet
the threads are severed.
slot portions, whereby, when the knife is in oper
ative position it is held against rotation or radial
movement to maintain the stem of the Y-knife in
proper position as will hereinafter appear, but
15 when the knife is in inoperative position it may
be rotated to cause the bayonet slot portions to
hold the knife elevated and out of the way.
In the form of the device as herein shown, the
passageway I0 is formed with an internal verti
20 cal slot l5 to receive a projecting guide rib IE on
the vertically sliding rod 9. The upper end of
the slot l 5 communicates with a horizontal radial
recess ll formed in a cap piece l8 secured to the
upper end of the standard 9 and in effect forms
a part of said standard. This arrangement is
such that when the knife is elevated, the end of
its rib I6 is withdrawn from the slot l5, at which
time the rod II is rotated (it is shown partially
rotated in Figure 6), the lower end of the rib I6
v30 moves into the recess l1, so that the knife is held
against downward movement with the stem of
its Y cutting edge at right angles to its operative
position.
The other end of the base 5 carries a pair of
L-shaped clamp and guide members l9, which
slidingly receive and act as guides for the base'
portion 20 of a second standard or post 2 I, carry
ing a Y-shaped knife 22, the operating parts and
cooperative relationship between the post 2| and
:40
knife 22 being identical in all respects to the cor
responding parts above described in connection
with the standard 6 and the knife l3, except that
the parts bear a reversed relation so that the
stem portions of the Y-knives l3 and 22 point
45 towards each other when they are in cutting posi
tion. The post 2| is adapted to be moved back
wardly and forwardly toward and from the post 6
by means of a threaded bolt 23, swivelled to the
base 20 of the post 2| and in threaded relation
I50 with a block member 24 ?xedly secured to the
base plate 5.
It will be apparent that in the making of short
slits of the character shown in Figures 1 and 2,
provided the straight portion or main part of the
55 slit is not longer than the overall length of the
stem portions of the Y cutting knives, may be
produced as a result of a double cutting opera
tion. To perform such operations the device is
laid on the pile of dress goods with the ?xed cut
ing knife l3 vertically overlying the pattern
marking one end of the opening to be cut. The
operator now rotates the knife l3 in its bayonet
slot which limits the direction of rotation and
makes it impossible to cut the fabric with the
65 Y-knife turned in the wrong direction, and lowers
said knife into contact with the fabric on the
cutting table. One or two blows of a hammer or
mallet will drive the knife I3 vertically down
through all of the fabric. The knife is now ele
70 vated and locked up out of the way by reverse
operation. The operator now manipulates the
adjusting bolt 23 until the adjustable knife 22
is lined up with the other end of the pattern
fabric.
When the two knives are used in the
manner described, the overall length of the slit
should not be so long that the stem portions of
the two Y-knives do not overlap slightly in their
slitting operations. This overlapping of the cut
ting members is desirable to insure that all of
It will be apparent that convenience in manip
1O
ulation and the necessity of being able to make
short slits for small button holes, will establish a
limitation on the length of the stem portion of
the two Y-shaped knives, and at the same time
will also limit the maximum length of slit which 15
can be made with said two knives. To make it
possible to cut slits of any length Within the ad
justing range of the tool, I have found it desira
ble to provide the guide heads 9 and 25 of the
standards with opposed slots 21 (see Figure 7), 20
which form vertical guide ways to slidingly re
ceive a straight cutting knife 28. This knife 28 is
removable and is used to connect the slits cut
by the stern portions of the miter or Y-shape
knives when the overall length of the opening isv 25
greater than the combined lengths of said stem
portions. When such a long slit is to be cut, the
operations of cutting the end miters may be per
formed as described, the miter knives being then
elevated and turned so that their stem portions
are out of the way, and then the post 2| is dis
placed laterally so that the knife 28 may be en
gaged in its guides 21, as shown in full lines in
Figure 3 and in dotted lines in Figure 4, for cut
ting the long connecting slit as will be readily 35
understood.
From the above description it will be evident
that I have produced a reinforced opening in gar
ments and a device for cutting the same which
embodies all of the features of advantage set 40
forth as desirable, and while I have described and
illustrated the preferred embodiment of the in
vention, it is to be understood that I reserve the
right to all changes within the spirit of the in
vention and without the ambit of the prior art. 45
I claim:—
1. A cloth cutting tool comprising a pair of ver
tical standards arranged to overlie the fabric to
be cut, a pair of Y-shaped knives vertically recip
rocating on said standards with the stem portionsv
of the knives projecting toward one another and
arranged in a straight line, and vertical guide
ways in the opposed faces of said standards.
2. A cloth cutting tool comprising a pair of ver
tical standards arranged to overlie the fabric to
be cut, a pair of Y-shaped knives vertically recip
rocating on said standards with the stem portions
of the knives projecting toward one another and
arranged in a straight line, means for adjusting
one standard toward and from the other and 60
vertical guideways in the opposed faces of said
standards.
3. A cloth cutting tool comprising a pair of ver
tical standards arranged to overlie the fabric to
be cut, a pair of Y-shaped knives vertically recip 65
rocating on said standards with the stem portions
of the knives projecting toward one another and
arranged in a straight line, vertical guideways in
the opposed faces of said standards, and means
for retaining said knives when at their upper lim 70
it of travel with their stem portions out of aline
ment.
FRANK E. COOPER.
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