Патент USA US2115571код для вставки
April 26, 1938. F. E.. COOPER GARMENT CUTTING TOOL Filed July 19, 1957 2,115,571 Patented Apr. 26, 1938 2,115,571 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,115,571 GARMENT CUTTING TOOL Frank E. Cooper, Independence, M0. Application July 19, 1937, Serial No. 154,463 3 Claims. This invention relates to garment manufacture and particularly to the production of reinforce duction will be ?rst described. Referring to Fig ments for the side walls of openings, such as sur rounding button holes, the ends or corners of ures 1 and 2, I is a fragment of a cloth or fabric in which a button hole or the mouth of a pocket 5 the mouth openings of pockets, and the like. The general object of- the invention is to provide such openings with double thickness of cloth around the entire periphery instead of only on two sides as now commonly practiced with the usual button 10 hole or pocket openings. A further object of the invention is to produce a device whereby one or more thicknesses of fabric, may be cut at a single operation to form either a button hole or the opening of a pocket, 15 or the like in a garment. The reinforced opening and its method of pro- ‘ is to be cut. To produce a rectangular opening, with its opposite end and side margins in par allelism and of double or reinforced thickness, a straight slit 2 is made, said slit having its opposite ends terminating in diverging branch slits 3, either straight as shown, or they may be curved P10 or semi-circular. The proportions of the slits are such that four straight lines (dotted in Fig ure 1) joining the ends of the branch slits 3 will outline the length and width of the completed opening, button hole or pocket, desired. The four Another object of the invention is to produce cloth ?aps thus produced are now folded back as a device of this kind which is adjustable over a in Figure 2, along the dotted lines, the result be ing the completed opening with its opposite side wide range for long or short slits, and which will completely sever the fabric with clean edges and will maintain its position on the fabric to cut straight down through superimposed plies of ‘ fabric without departure from a straight line. A still further object of the invention is to pro duce a device of this kind which is of strong, dur 25 (Cl. 30-165) able, eflicient, and inexpensive construction; and in order that it may be fully understood, refer ence is to be had to the accompanying drawing, in which:— Figure 1 is a plan view of a fragment of cloth which has been slit or cut in accordance with 3O the invention. Figure 2 is a perspective View of the same indi cating the four ?aps. turned back to provide a margin of double thickness, the opposite end and. side walls of the opening being in parallel rela tion. Figure 3 is a top- plan view of the device for cutting or slitting the cloth, illustrated with three cutting knives. 40 ' Figure 4 is a side elevation of the device with the center knife shown dotted, and with one end knife ready for a cutting stroke and the other end knife in elevated for inoperative position. Figure 5 is an end view of the device as shown in‘Figure 4. ‘ Figure 6 is an enlarged section through one of the knife carrying rods looking down on top ‘of the arrangement adapted to hold the knives in inoperative position. Figure 'l is an enlarged fragmental perspective through one of the guide standards forminga part of the invention. ‘ Figure 8 is an enlarged fragmental perspective of the cutting edge of one of the end knives of 5 Y-shape. Figure 9 is a fragmental perspective View of the cutting edge of a Y-knife taken from a different angle than as shown in Figure 8. Figure 10 is a side elevation of the third knife 60 forming a part of the invention. and end walls in parallel relation and of double thickness (see Figure 2). It will be apparent that the cloth may be slit by any suitable instrumen talities, and that the angle formed between the companion slits 3 and the lengths of said slits, determines the overall length and width of the complete opening 4 when the flaps are folded back as described and illustrated. The ?aps thus 25 provide reinforcements for double stitching on all sides of the opening. It is found in the commercial cutting of dress goods, particularly when it is of silk or silk-like material, the most practical method of producing the reinforced opening, is by the use of the tool or device shown in Figures 3 to 9 inclusive, since the various slits must be made as a more or less single operation through the plies of fabric, since 35 any slipping of the plies on each other, or a shifting or divergence of the cutting tool or its angle of cut, will result in the slitting of the cloth in such fashion that when the dresses are com pleted the position of the pockets or button holes 40 will vary in accordance with the location of that particular piece of fabric in the pile when it was cut. To overcome this dif?culty and to insure a vertical cut, the tool comprises a more or less weighty base member 5 which is adapted to rest 45 upon the superimposed layers of cloth, perhaps to the thickness of several inches. Secured rigidly adjacent one end of the base plate 5 is an upright standard 6, one convenient method of mounting the standard being by hav ing its base portion, 1 overlapped and ?rmly clamped by a pair of L-shaped clamping mem bers 8 bolted to the base 5. The upper end of the standard is offset inwardly and is formed with a vertically extending head 9 having a vertical bore or guideway slidingly receiving a rod H. The lower end of the rod is enlarged in the drawing as shown as at I2 to detachably receive a gen erally Y-shaped cutting or miter blade 13, the branches of the Y being straight as here shown, 60 2 10 2,115,571 but obviously they may be curved or crescent shaped which preserves the general Y-shape of the preferred form of the cutting knife, to pro duce a pair of branch slits in diverging relation to the line of the center slit as will hereinafter appear. The upper end of the rod H is formed in a driving head M, to which mallet blows or other force may be applied to drive the knife I3 marking the slit to be cut, and said knife in turn is used to cut the miter down through the pile of through the fabric. The vertically sliding rod I I and the guideway [0 having interlocking bayonet the threads are severed. slot portions, whereby, when the knife is in oper ative position it is held against rotation or radial movement to maintain the stem of the Y-knife in proper position as will hereinafter appear, but 15 when the knife is in inoperative position it may be rotated to cause the bayonet slot portions to hold the knife elevated and out of the way. In the form of the device as herein shown, the passageway I0 is formed with an internal verti 20 cal slot l5 to receive a projecting guide rib IE on the vertically sliding rod 9. The upper end of the slot l 5 communicates with a horizontal radial recess ll formed in a cap piece l8 secured to the upper end of the standard 9 and in effect forms a part of said standard. This arrangement is such that when the knife is elevated, the end of its rib I6 is withdrawn from the slot l5, at which time the rod II is rotated (it is shown partially rotated in Figure 6), the lower end of the rib I6 v30 moves into the recess l1, so that the knife is held against downward movement with the stem of its Y cutting edge at right angles to its operative position. The other end of the base 5 carries a pair of L-shaped clamp and guide members l9, which slidingly receive and act as guides for the base' portion 20 of a second standard or post 2 I, carry ing a Y-shaped knife 22, the operating parts and cooperative relationship between the post 2| and :40 knife 22 being identical in all respects to the cor responding parts above described in connection with the standard 6 and the knife l3, except that the parts bear a reversed relation so that the stem portions of the Y-knives l3 and 22 point 45 towards each other when they are in cutting posi tion. The post 2| is adapted to be moved back wardly and forwardly toward and from the post 6 by means of a threaded bolt 23, swivelled to the base 20 of the post 2| and in threaded relation I50 with a block member 24 ?xedly secured to the base plate 5. It will be apparent that in the making of short slits of the character shown in Figures 1 and 2, provided the straight portion or main part of the 55 slit is not longer than the overall length of the stem portions of the Y cutting knives, may be produced as a result of a double cutting opera tion. To perform such operations the device is laid on the pile of dress goods with the ?xed cut ing knife l3 vertically overlying the pattern marking one end of the opening to be cut. The operator now rotates the knife l3 in its bayonet slot which limits the direction of rotation and makes it impossible to cut the fabric with the 65 Y-knife turned in the wrong direction, and lowers said knife into contact with the fabric on the cutting table. One or two blows of a hammer or mallet will drive the knife I3 vertically down through all of the fabric. The knife is now ele 70 vated and locked up out of the way by reverse operation. The operator now manipulates the adjusting bolt 23 until the adjustable knife 22 is lined up with the other end of the pattern fabric. When the two knives are used in the manner described, the overall length of the slit should not be so long that the stem portions of the two Y-knives do not overlap slightly in their slitting operations. This overlapping of the cut ting members is desirable to insure that all of It will be apparent that convenience in manip 1O ulation and the necessity of being able to make short slits for small button holes, will establish a limitation on the length of the stem portion of the two Y-shaped knives, and at the same time will also limit the maximum length of slit which 15 can be made with said two knives. To make it possible to cut slits of any length Within the ad justing range of the tool, I have found it desira ble to provide the guide heads 9 and 25 of the standards with opposed slots 21 (see Figure 7), 20 which form vertical guide ways to slidingly re ceive a straight cutting knife 28. This knife 28 is removable and is used to connect the slits cut by the stern portions of the miter or Y-shape knives when the overall length of the opening isv 25 greater than the combined lengths of said stem portions. When such a long slit is to be cut, the operations of cutting the end miters may be per formed as described, the miter knives being then elevated and turned so that their stem portions are out of the way, and then the post 2| is dis placed laterally so that the knife 28 may be en gaged in its guides 21, as shown in full lines in Figure 3 and in dotted lines in Figure 4, for cut ting the long connecting slit as will be readily 35 understood. From the above description it will be evident that I have produced a reinforced opening in gar ments and a device for cutting the same which embodies all of the features of advantage set 40 forth as desirable, and while I have described and illustrated the preferred embodiment of the in vention, it is to be understood that I reserve the right to all changes within the spirit of the in vention and without the ambit of the prior art. 45 I claim:— 1. A cloth cutting tool comprising a pair of ver tical standards arranged to overlie the fabric to be cut, a pair of Y-shaped knives vertically recip rocating on said standards with the stem portionsv of the knives projecting toward one another and arranged in a straight line, and vertical guide ways in the opposed faces of said standards. 2. A cloth cutting tool comprising a pair of ver tical standards arranged to overlie the fabric to be cut, a pair of Y-shaped knives vertically recip rocating on said standards with the stem portions of the knives projecting toward one another and arranged in a straight line, means for adjusting one standard toward and from the other and 60 vertical guideways in the opposed faces of said standards. 3. A cloth cutting tool comprising a pair of ver tical standards arranged to overlie the fabric to be cut, a pair of Y-shaped knives vertically recip 65 rocating on said standards with the stem portions of the knives projecting toward one another and arranged in a straight line, vertical guideways in the opposed faces of said standards, and means for retaining said knives when at their upper lim 70 it of travel with their stem portions out of aline ment. FRANK E. COOPER.