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Патент USA US2116621

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May 10, 1938.
P_ H, DlxÓN.
2,116,621
SHQE
Filed Nov`I 16. 1936
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Patented May 10, 1938
PATENT orties
UNITED i STATES
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2,116,621
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SHOE
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`Paul H. Dixon, Salem, Mass., assignor to United
Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J.. a
corporation of New Jersey
` ` Application November 16, 1936, Serial No. 111,005
9’ Claims'.
.
(C1. Sli-_57)
This invention relates to improvements in shoes
`and `more particularly in the back seamed p01“
i tions of shoe uppers.
,The upper of a shoe usually comprises two
»quarter pieces, the rear marginal portions of
«which are inturned and secured together by
stitches `with their outer surfaces contacting to
form` the back seam.
The parts are initially as
sembled wrong-side out, the quarter pieces being
laid one upon the other With their outer surfaces
Áin contact, and the parts being stitched together
in that condition. Thereafter the assembly is
`turned or opened out so that the stitched mar
ginal portions constitute a ridge at the inner
4,
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side of the assembly.
In order to reduce so Íar
as practicable the prominence of this ridge it is
customary to press or rub the back seam before
the quarter assembly has been turned. Such
treatment, however, frequently causes the back
seam ridge tot be turned over toward one side
`or the other in such a manner as to make the
seam crooked, Moreover, in Working the quarter
assembly over the last there is also more or less
A.tendency to deflect the ridge of the seam from
, y.its desired erect position in a manner to inter
tere with the desired straight/ness or evenness of
the seam.
Objects of the present invention are to insure
against the occurrence of the above-mentioned
undesirable conditions and to improve the con
struction and appearance of the back-seamed
portions` of shoe uppers.
_ With this object in view the invention provides
`a shoe quarter comprising two pieces having their
rear marginal portions disposed with their outer
surfaces in contact and united by back-seam
stitches, and a strip of padding which is secured
Íto the‘inner side oi each of said marginal por
tions. As‘herein illustrated, each of the quarter
40 pieces comprises an cuter layer of material Such
as leather and an inner fabric layer or so«called
“doubler” piece and the strips of padding are
secured in place ` by means of the back-seam
stitches which extend through the padding strips
aswell as through the outer quarter pieces and v
the doubler pieces. The quarter assembly may
.also include a lining but usually, and as illus
trated herein, the back~seam stitches do not ex
tend through the lining. The padding strips are
bound closely and tightly against the opposite
sides of the back-seam ridge produced by the
stitching together` of the rear marginal portions
of. the'quarter pieces, the stitches being so dis
posed `a`s to draw the soft material of the padding
.55,5 _strips tightly >into the angles betweenY the ridge
` and the adjacent inside surfaces of the quarter.
Thus the padding strips are enabled to support
the ridge and to prevent it from being turned
over or deflected toward one side or the other by
any seam rubbing or pressing operation to which
it may be subjected for the purpose of reducing
the ridge before the assembly is turned right
side out, After the quarter assembly has been
turned right-side out and While it is being ap
plied to and Worked over the last `the padding 10
strips serve to support the back-seam ridge in
its desired erect position and thus to insure that
the desired straightness and evenness of the
back seam shall be maintained. Moreover, in the
finished shoe the padding strips serve to ñll the 15
spaces between the quarter pieces and the lining,
or, if a counter stiffener is employed, between the
`quarter and the counter sti?íener in the im
mediate vicinity of the back seam and thus `to
secure a desired plump or upholstered appear- 2„
ance'of the upper and to insure that‘the con- '
tour of the up er shall conform more nearly to
that of the last in the back of the shoe. The
padding strips also serve to cushion the back
seam stitches and thus to add to the life of the 425
`back seam.
The invention will now be described with ref
erence to the accompanying drawing, in which
Fig. 1 is a fragmentary plan View of a shoe
quarter showing the improved construction of 30
the back-seemed portion thereof;
Fig. 2"is a sectional view taken along the line
II-II of Fig. 1; `
'
Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional View on au enlarged
scale ci the back-seamed portions of a quarter 35
assembly illustrating the operation of pressing or
rubbing the back seam; and
Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional View of the parts
shown in Figs. 1 and 2 as they appear after a
quarter lining has been secured thereto and the 40 v
parts have been turned right~side out and as
sembled, together with a counter stiffener, upon
a last.
,
`
In the drawing, my improved construction is
shown as embodied in aquarter assembly for a 45
shoe upper comprising the pieces I0, Hl of a tvvo~
part quarter, the . pieces I2, l2 of a two-part
quarter doubler, two padding strips I4, I4, and a
line of back-seam stitches I6 by means of which
the rear marginal portions of the quarter pieces 50
and the doubler pieces are secured together and
the padding strips are held `in place at opposite
sides of the ridge of the back seam. In accord
ance with the usual practice in the making of
two-part quarters, the quarter pieces Ill, I0 which 55
2
2,116,621
are made of leather or other suitable upper ma
sole upon a last 28, where, after the usual pulling
terial are initially assembled in face-to-face
wrong-side out relation, i. e., with their outer or
grain surfaces in contact and with the fabric
doubler pieces I2, I2 overlaid upon the outer or
í'lesh surfaces of the quarter pieces, the several
over operation has been performed, the upper is
ready to be lasted. It will be noticed with
parts being ñat and being arranged with their
curved rear edges alined with each other. In
order to obtain the advantages of my improved
10 construction, the padding strips III, I4 are applied
, to the exposed rear marginal surfaces of the
width of the ridge of the back seam so that there
is little if any tendency for the back-seam ridge
to be distorted or turned over toward one side
or the other by any strains to which it may be
subjected during the performance of the assem 10
bling, pulling-over and lasting operations.
Con
doubler pieces I2, I2 before the doubler and
sequently, the back seam will not become uneven
quarter pieces are stitched together and there
after the back-seam stitching operation is per
but will be retained in its desired straight condi
tion. In addition, the padding strips fill in the
spaces between the quarter and the quarter lining
15 formed so that the stitches I6, in addition to ex
tending through and securing together the quar
ter pieces and the doubler pieces, extend also
through the padding strips and firmly secure the
latter in place along the rear marginal portions of
20 the doubler pieces.
In cases where no doubler
pieces are to be employed the padding strips I2,
I2 will be laid along the rear marginal portions
of the quarter pieces themselves and secured di
rectly to the latter by the back-seam stitches.
25 As illustrated, the padding strips I4 consist of
short lengths or strips of soft resilient material,
such as loosely spun cotton yarn, although other
suitable cushioning or padding material may be
employed.
The stitching operation may be per
30 formed by the use of any suitable sewing ma
chine which will preferably be provided with a
gage suitably constructed and arranged to guide
the work and to position the padding strips in the
desired relation to the edges ofthe quarter pieces.
35 At the completion of the back-seam stitching
operation the parts will appear as shown in Figs.
1 and 2.
In Fig. 3 the back-seamed portion of the quar
ter is shown as it appears after the stitched
40 together parts have been opened up more or less
preparatory to the performance of a seam-press
ing or rubbing operation but before they have
been turned right-side out preparatory to being
placed upon a last. As clearly shown at I8 in
45 Fig. 3, the back-seam stitching operation results
in the forming of a ridge at the inner side of the
assembly. If, in accordance with a customary
practice, the back-seamed portion of the quarter
is to be pressed or rubbed for the purpose of
50 reducing the prominence of the ridge of. the back
seam, the padding strips I2, I2 will assist, during
the rubbing or pressing operation, to support
the ridge of the back seam so as to prevent it
from being turned over toward one side or the
55 other in such a manner as to result in the forma
tion of a crooked seam. Although the seam
rubbing or pressing operation may be accom
plished by other means, it is illustrated in Fig. 4
as being performed by means of a rubbing tool 26
60 which operates upon the edges of the back
65
reference to Fig. 4 that the presence of the
padding strips I4, I4 substantially increases the
at opposite sides of the ridge of the back seam
so as to impart a desired padded or upholstered
effect to the exterior of. the upper in the imme
diate vicinity of the back seam. The use of the
padding strips renders it practicable to employ 20
quarter pieces cut from upper leather which is
thinner than that usually employed and still to
secure the desired appearance of thickness or
plumpness of the upper at the back of the shoe.
The back-seam stitches are cushioned by means
of the padding strips through which they extend
so that they are less liable to break either during
the stitching operation or later While the shoe is
being worn. Moreover, the padding of the back
seam, as herein described, renders unnecessary
the customary operations of “taping” or “stay
ing” the seam and saves the expense of such
operations while being even more effective in
providing for the desired strength, evenness and
attractiveness of appearance of the back-seamed $5
portions of the upper.
Having described my invention, what I claim as
new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of. the
United States is:
l. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces having 40
their rear marginal portions disposed with their
outer surfaces in contact and united by back
seam stitches, and padding strips of soft resilient
material, said strips engaging the inner sides of
`each of said marginal portions and being secured 45
to said pieces by said stitches.
2. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces hav
ing their rear marginal portions disposed with
their outer surfaces in contact and united by
back-seam stitches, said portions forming a ridge 50
extending heightwise of the quarter at the inner
side thereof, and strips of padding located in the
angles between said ridge and the adjacent in
side surfaces of the quarter and held in place by
said stitches so as to support said ridge.
3. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces hav
ing inturned rear marginal portions disposed
with their outer surfaces in contact, said por
tions forming a ridge upon the inside of the
quarter, a line of stitches uniting said inturned 60
seamed portions of the quarter assembly while
marginal portions, »and padding strips engaging
the latter is being fed over a rotary work sup
port 22 in the operation of a machine such, for
example, as that disclosed in United States Let
the sides of said ridge and held by said line of
stitches in positions to support the ridge.
4. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces hav
ing their rear marginal portions inturned and
disposed with contacting outer surfaces forming
a back seam, padding strips overlying the inner
sides of said marginal portions, and a line of
back-seam stitches uniting said marginal por
tions and holding said padding strips in place.
70
5. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces hav
ters Patent No. 1,920,253, granted August 1, 1933,
upon application of P. R. Glass.
After the back-seam ridge has been pressed as
above described and a quarter lining 24 (Fig. 4)
has been stitched to the upper margin of. the
70 quarter, the quarter assembly is turned right-side
out, a vamp (not shown) is stitched to the quar
ter to complete the formation of the shoe upper,
a counter sti?fener 26 (Fig. 4) is interposed be
tween the quarter doubler and the quarter lining
75 and the parts are assembled together with an in
ing their rear marginal portions inturned and se
cured together by back-seam stitches, said in
turned portions forming a ridge upon the inside
of the quarter, padding strips of loosely spun cot 76
2,116,621
ton yarn overlying the sides of said ridge and
the inner surfaces of the quarter in the immedi
ate vicinity of said ridge, and back-seam stitches
uniting said pieces and securing said padding
strips thereto, the material of said padding strips `
being drawn by said stitches into the angles be
tween said ridge and the adjacent inside surfacesof the quarter so as to afford support of said
ridge.
10
`
6. A quarter assembly for a shoe upper com- .
prising two quarter pieces and two doubler pieces
al1 having their rear marginal portions inturned,
the inturned marginal portions of the quarter
pieces being arranged in contact with one an
15 other and united by back-seam stitches which
extend also through the doubler pieces, and pad
ding strips held by said stitches against the in
ner sides of the inturned marginal portions and
adjacent inside surface portions of said doubler
pieces.
'7. A quarter assembly for a shoe upper com
prising two quarter pieces having their rear mar
ginal portions inturned and united by back-seam
stitches to form a ridge at the inside of said as
25 sembly, and padding strips held by said stitches
3
against the sides of said ridge and against the
adjacent inside surfaces of said quarter pieces so
as to support said ridge in an upstanding posi
tion.
8. In a shoe, an upper comprising two quarter
pieces having their rear marginal portions in
turned and disposed with contacting outer sur
faces forming a back seam, a quarter lining, a
counter stiffener interposed between said quarter
pieces and said lining, padding strips of soft re
silient material filling the spaces between said
quarter pieces and said counter stiiîener in the
immediate Vicinity of the back seam, and a line
of back-seam stitches uniting said marginal por
tions of the quarter pieces and holding said strips 15
in place.
9. In a shoe, two quarter pieces having in
turned rear marginal portions stitched together
and forming a back-seam ridge, an inner upper
member bearing -against said back-seam ridge, 20
and padding strips filling the spaces between said
quarter pieces and said inner upper member at
opposite sides of said ridge and held against said
ridge by said stitches.
PAUL H. DIXON.
25
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