Патент USA US2117163код для вставки
May 10, 1938. ‘ J, HASPEL ‘ } 2,117,163 GOAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed 001;. 2, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet l May 10, 1938. J. HASPEL ‘ 2,117,163 \ COAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed Oct. 2, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Wa - 777/” // c705 6p}, ?aspel MM W Patented May 10, 1938 2,117,163 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE‘ ‘ 2,117,163v COAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Joseph Haspel, New Orleans, La., assignor to Haspel Brothers, Inc.,' New Orleans, La. Application October 2, 1937, Serial No. 167,058 4 Claims. (Cl. 2-263) This invention relates to an outer garment of the coat type and the method of manufactur ing it. The object of the invention is to manufacture, looking towards the inner face of the modi?ed V form of coat in accordance with this invention, Figure '7 is a section on line 1-1, Figure 1 upon an enlarged scale, and Figure 8 is an elevation of the combined shoul which will retain its shape and be more sightly vder pad and sleeve head supporting unit em in appearance. ployed in the modified form of coat shown in A further object of the invention is to provide Figures 5 to '7. a coat including a simple, compact, durable, With reference to the drawings and as is well thoroughly ei?cient means of a form, in a man known the body portion of certain forms of coats ner as hereinafter set forth, acting as a shoulder pad and sleeve support and coacting with‘ other includes an outer facing l0 which provides the parts of the garment to provide for the latter neck, sides, front and back of the coat, a pair of linings H, only one shown, and each of which retaining its shape and to enhance its appear is arranged against the inner face of the por ance. tions of the facing H) which provide a shoulder, 15 A further object of the invention is to pro vide a coat including the means as aforesaid and a part of the front and a side of the coat. The with such means capable of being expeditiously pair of linings II have the upper portions of their inner edges connected together by a trans installed in the coat body at a very nominal ad verse extending narrow lining I 2. One of the 20 dition with respect to the cost of producing the garment not having as a part thereof the said shoulders provided by the facing I0 is indicated at l3. One of the armholes of the coat is desig means. To the above ends essentially and to others nated I 4 ‘and is provided in the facing l0 and in a part of the lining ll. One of the sleeves of which may hereinafter appear, the invention con the coat is indicated at l5. sists of the novel construction, combination and In a coat construction, in accordance with this arrangement of parts as will be more speci?cally in a manner as hereinafter set forth, a coat 3 l) described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings wherein is shown embodiments of the invention, but it is to be understood that changes, variations and modi?cations may be resorted to which fall within the scope of the invention as claimed. In the drawings: Figure 1 is an elevation looking towards the -. ._, outer face of one side of the coat constructed in accordance with this invention and illustrating in dotted lines the means which acts as a shoulder facing l0, sleeve l5 and a part of lining H by pad and a support for the head of the sleeve of the coat, stitching 20. Figure 2 is a fragmentary view in elevation looking towards the inner face of the side of a coat constructed in accordance with this in facing i0 is a portion of a combined pad and sup vention, Figure 3 is a section on line 3-3, Figure 1 upon an enlarged scale, Figure 4 is an elevation of the combined shoul der pad and sleeve head supporting unit form ing an element of a coat in invention, 50 invention, the edge of the armhole M has the major portion of its length enclosed by a binder H5. The ends of the binder it are indicated at I1. That portion of the edge of the armhole M which is not provided with the binder is in dicated at I 8. A part of the upper end of the sleeve “3 extends into the binder IS. The shoul der l3 in proximity to its outer edge is secured to the remaining portion of the upper end of the sleeve l5 adjacent the top edge of such por tion as at l9. The binder I6 is secured to the accordance with this‘ Figure 5 is a fragmentary View in elevation looking towards the inner face of the side of a modi?ed form of coat in accordance with this invention and illustrating parts thereof disas sembled. Figure 6 is a fragmentary view in elevation Arranged between lining II and shoulder I3 of porting means 2i for the shoulder l3 and the head end of the sleeve l5. The other portion of the means 2| extends into the upper part of the head of the sleeve I5. Secured to the lining l2 and facing i3, adjacent the upper portion 45 of the edge of the armhole Hi, as at 22 is one end of a retaining member 23 which encompasses that portion of the means 2! arrangedvin the head of the sleeve. The member 23 is bent upon itself to provide a fold 24 which has its free end 50 secured to the inner face of the sleeve l5 adjacent the edge of the armhole I 4 by the stitching 25. The latter also acts to secure the means 2| with the sleeve l5 and member 23. With reference to Figures 2 and 4, the means 55 2,117,163 2 2| is a unit formed of a pair of outer sections 26, 21 and an inner section 28 of pad-like mate rial. The sections 26, 21 project from the sec tion 28 and their projected portions are con nected together by the stitching 29. The sections of the means 2| are secured together by a row of stitching 30. The section 26 as well as the sec tion 21 is formed from a piece of fabric which is so shaped to provide the means 2| with a lat 10 eral tapered extension 3| merging into the por tions 32, 33 of the means 2|. The portion 32 is of greater length than the portion 33. The por tion 32 has its edge 34 of arcuate contour. The portion 32 has its edge of concave contour. compassing relation with respect to the portions of said means constituting the supports for the sleeve heads, securing one end of the retainers to the coat body in proximity to the armholes in the latter securing the other end of the retainers to the inner face of the coat sleeves in proximity to the armholes and simultaneously with the se curing of the said other ends of the retainers anchoring the said means with the retainers and 10 sleeves. 2. In a coat having a shoulder, an armhole and a sleeve extended from the latter, the com bination of means having a portion located at the shoulder to constitute a pad for the latter and a'portion extended through the armhole into 15 15 When the means 2| is mounted in position, that ' the sleeve to constitute a support for the head side thereof provided with the extension 3| de pends below the other side of said means and is arranged in the sleeve head. 7 With reference to Figures 5 to 8, the coat struc-_ 20 ture will be the same as that shown by Figures 1. to 4. with this exception that the. combined pad and supporting. means 35 respectively for the shoulder and sleeve head. .is formed of a pad section and a supportrs'ection. 36., 31 respectively. of the latter, a retainer encompassing that por tion of said means positioned in the sleeve, stitching securing one end of the retainer to the coat in proximity to the armhole, and stitch 20 ing securing the other end of the retainer to the sleeve. in’ proximity to- the armhole and for an choring said means, retainer and sleeve together. 3. In a coat having a shoulder‘, an. armhole and asleeveextended'ifrom the latter, the com 25 25 The latter is secured to one‘ side of the section bination of means‘ having a-port'ion- locatedv at 36 and‘ depends from‘ one end' thereof as: well as the shoulder to constitute a pad ‘for the latter extending laterally from each. side thereof. One and. aportion extended through the armhole into of the extended portions of the section 31 and the sleeve to constitute a support for the sleeve indicated. at 38' is of. greater length than the head at the point toward the front of the sleeve 30 30 other extended portion 39 thereof. The section where the sleeve joins the body of the coat to 33' is of‘ semi-circular contour and is formed of provide a rounded eifect in’ the sleeve itself and a pair of strips of fabric Ml’; 4| having inter whereby creases appearing in the front of the posed‘ therebetween a strip of padding material sleeve, caused by the movement of the arm are 42. The strips 40, M, Hare secured together by 35 stitching 43. The. section 36 has an arcuate disposed below the extension, a retainer encom passing that portion of said means positioned edge M. and a horizontaledge '45. The section in the sleeve, stitching securing one end of the 38 is of. oblong contour and formedv of a strip- of fabric 45 and a. strip- of. padding material 41. retainer to the coat in proximity to the armhole, The fabric. strip 66. is bent upon itself toprovide and stitching securing the other end of the re tainer to the sleeve in proximity to the armhole 40 it of .U-shape in transverse cross. section and the padding material 41' is. arranged within the andrfor'anchoring said means, retainer and sleeve strip ‘36. The. strip 46 and‘ strip 41‘ are secured together, said means consisting of a substan tially- semi-circular portion provided with a lat together by. stitching G8. The section 31:. is posi tioned against the strip. dirof section 36, in eral extension. 4. In a coat having a shoulder, an armhole 45 proximity to the said. horizontal edge 45 and is 45 and a sleeve extended from the latter, the com so arranged relatively to section 31 to provide it to extend‘ in a manneras heretofore set forth. bination. of‘ means‘ having a portion located at The means 35. is connected to and: arranged in the shoulder to constitute a pad for the latter position ‘relative to‘ the body and sleeves of the and a portion extended'through the armhole into the sleeve to constitute a support for the sleeve coat in‘ a manner as: the means 2| is connected 50 head at the point toward the front of the sleeve and arranged‘ in position. The means 35.‘ func tions'for the samepurpose. asthe‘means 2|. The where the sleeve joins the body of the coat to latter aswell as the means 35' possesses a soft provide a rounded effect in the'sleeve itself and characteristic. Each of the extensions is=toprovide a support 55 or padding to the sleeve head at the point to ward the front of- a sleeve‘where the latter joins the coat body to thereby produce a rounded effect in the sleeve itself. The action of the 60 arms of the wearer do not crease the. supports or paddings provided by the extensions, as what ever creases appear in the fronts of the sleeves caused by the movement of the arms are below 65 and under the extensions. What I claim is: 1. In a method of manufacturing a coat, the positioning of a pair of oppositely disposed pad ding and supporting means relative to the shoul ders and the heads of the sleeves of the coat, positioning oppositely disposed retainers in en whereby creases appearing in- the front of ‘ the sleeve, caused‘ by the movement of the arm are i disposed’bel'ow the extension; a retainer encom passing that portion of-' said‘ means positioned in the sleeve, stitching securing one end'of the retainer to the coat in proximity to the armhole, and stitching securing the other end of the re 60 tainer to'the sleeve in proximity to'the armhole and for anchoring said-means, retainer and sleeve together, said means consisting. of a semi-circular section and‘ an oblong‘ section extending from the horizontal edge and laterally'in opposite di 65 rections withrespect to‘ the curved edge of the semi-circular section; said oblong section being positioned at one side‘ of the semi-circular sec tion. 70 JOSEPH‘ I-I‘ASPEL.