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Патент USA US2117163

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May 10, 1938.
‘
J, HASPEL
‘
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2,117,163
GOAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
Filed 001;. 2, 1937
2 Sheets-Sheet l
May 10, 1938.
J. HASPEL
‘
2,117,163
\
COAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
Filed Oct. 2, 1937
2 Sheets-Sheet 2
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Patented May 10, 1938
2,117,163
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE‘ ‘
2,117,163v
COAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
Joseph Haspel, New Orleans, La., assignor to
Haspel Brothers, Inc.,' New Orleans, La.
Application October 2, 1937, Serial No. 167,058
4 Claims.
(Cl. 2-263)
This invention relates to an outer garment of
the coat type and the method of manufactur
ing it.
The object of the invention is to manufacture,
looking towards the inner face of the modi?ed V
form of coat in accordance with this invention,
Figure '7 is a section on line 1-1, Figure 1
upon an enlarged scale, and
Figure 8 is an elevation of the combined shoul
which will retain its shape and be more sightly
vder pad and sleeve head supporting unit em
in appearance.
ployed in the modified form of coat shown in
A further object of the invention is to provide Figures
5 to '7.
a coat including a simple, compact, durable,
With reference to the drawings and as is well
thoroughly ei?cient means of a form, in a man
known the body portion of certain forms of coats
ner as hereinafter set forth, acting as a shoulder
pad and sleeve support and coacting with‘ other includes an outer facing l0 which provides the
parts of the garment to provide for the latter neck, sides, front and back of the coat, a pair
of linings H, only one shown, and each of which
retaining its shape and to enhance its appear
is arranged against the inner face of the por
ance.
tions of the facing H) which provide a shoulder, 15
A further object of the invention is to pro
vide a coat including the means as aforesaid and a part of the front and a side of the coat. The
with such means capable of being expeditiously pair of linings II have the upper portions of
their inner edges connected together by a trans
installed in the coat body at a very nominal ad
verse extending narrow lining I 2. One of the
20 dition with respect to the cost of producing the
garment not having as a part thereof the said shoulders provided by the facing I0 is indicated
at l3. One of the armholes of the coat is desig
means.
To the above ends essentially and to others nated I 4 ‘and is provided in the facing l0 and in
a part of the lining ll. One of the sleeves of
which may hereinafter appear, the invention con
the
coat is indicated at l5.
sists of the novel construction, combination and
In
a coat construction, in accordance with this
arrangement of parts as will be more speci?cally
in a manner as hereinafter set forth, a coat
3 l)
described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings wherein is shown embodiments of the
invention, but it is to be understood that changes,
variations and modi?cations may be resorted to
which fall within the scope of the invention as
claimed.
In the drawings:
Figure 1 is an elevation looking towards the
-. ._, outer face of one side of the coat constructed in
accordance with this invention and illustrating in
dotted lines the means which acts as a shoulder
facing l0, sleeve l5 and a part of lining H by
pad and a support for the head of the sleeve of
the coat,
stitching 20.
Figure 2 is a fragmentary view in elevation
looking towards the inner face of the side of a
coat constructed in accordance with this in
facing i0 is a portion of a combined pad and sup
vention,
Figure 3 is a section on line 3-3, Figure 1 upon
an enlarged scale,
Figure 4 is an elevation of the combined shoul
der pad and sleeve head supporting unit form
ing an element of a coat in
invention,
50
invention, the edge of the armhole M has the
major portion of its length enclosed by a binder
H5. The ends of the binder it are indicated at
I1. That portion of the edge of the armhole
M which is not provided with the binder is in
dicated at I 8. A part of the upper end of the
sleeve “3 extends into the binder IS. The shoul
der l3 in proximity to its outer edge is secured
to the remaining portion of the upper end of
the sleeve l5 adjacent the top edge of such por
tion as at l9. The binder I6 is secured to the
accordance with this‘
Figure 5 is a fragmentary View in elevation
looking towards the inner face of the side of a
modi?ed form of coat in accordance with this
invention and illustrating parts thereof disas
sembled.
Figure 6 is a fragmentary view in elevation
Arranged between lining II and shoulder I3 of
porting means 2i for the shoulder l3 and the
head end of the sleeve l5. The other portion
of the means 2| extends into the upper part of
the head of the sleeve I5. Secured to the lining
l2 and facing i3, adjacent the upper portion 45
of the edge of the armhole Hi, as at 22 is one end
of a retaining member 23 which encompasses
that portion of the means 2! arrangedvin the
head of the sleeve. The member 23 is bent upon
itself to provide a fold 24 which has its free end 50
secured to the inner face of the sleeve l5 adjacent
the edge of the armhole I 4 by the stitching 25.
The latter also acts to secure the means 2| with
the sleeve l5 and member 23.
With reference to Figures 2 and 4, the means 55
2,117,163
2
2| is a unit formed of a pair of outer sections
26, 21 and an inner section 28 of pad-like mate
rial. The sections 26, 21 project from the sec
tion 28 and their projected portions are con
nected together by the stitching 29. The sections
of the means 2| are secured together by a row of
stitching 30. The section 26 as well as the sec
tion 21 is formed from a piece of fabric which
is so shaped to provide the means 2| with a lat
10
eral tapered extension 3| merging into the por
tions 32, 33 of the means 2|. The portion 32 is of
greater length than the portion 33. The por
tion 32 has its edge 34 of arcuate contour. The
portion 32 has its edge of concave contour.
compassing relation with respect to the portions
of said means constituting the supports for the
sleeve heads, securing one end of the retainers
to the coat body in proximity to the armholes in
the latter securing the other end of the retainers
to the inner face of the coat sleeves in proximity
to the armholes and simultaneously with the se
curing of the said other ends of the retainers
anchoring the said means with the retainers and
10
sleeves.
2. In a coat having a shoulder, an armhole
and a sleeve extended from the latter, the com
bination of means having a portion located at
the shoulder to constitute a pad for the latter
and a'portion extended through the armhole into 15
15 When the means 2| is mounted in position, that ' the sleeve to constitute a support for the head
side thereof provided with the extension 3| de
pends below the other side of said means and is
arranged in the sleeve head.
7
With reference to Figures 5 to 8, the coat struc-_
20 ture will be the same as that shown by Figures
1. to 4. with this exception that the. combined pad
and supporting. means 35 respectively for the
shoulder and sleeve head. .is formed of a pad
section and a supportrs'ection. 36., 31 respectively.
of the latter, a retainer encompassing that por
tion of said means positioned in the sleeve,
stitching securing one end of the retainer to
the coat in proximity to the armhole, and stitch 20
ing securing the other end of the retainer to the
sleeve. in’ proximity to- the armhole and for an
choring said means, retainer and sleeve together.
3. In a coat having a shoulder‘, an. armhole
and asleeveextended'ifrom the latter, the com 25
25 The latter is secured to one‘ side of the section
bination of means‘ having a-port'ion- locatedv at
36 and‘ depends from‘ one end' thereof as: well as
the shoulder to constitute a pad ‘for the latter
extending laterally from each. side thereof. One and. aportion extended through the armhole into
of the extended portions of the section 31 and the sleeve to constitute a support for the sleeve
indicated. at 38' is of. greater length than the head at the point toward the front of the sleeve 30
30 other extended portion 39 thereof. The section
where the sleeve joins the body of the coat to
33' is of‘ semi-circular contour and is formed of
provide a rounded eifect in’ the sleeve itself and
a pair of strips of fabric Ml’; 4| having inter
whereby creases appearing in the front of the
posed‘ therebetween a strip of padding material
sleeve,
caused by the movement of the arm are
42. The strips 40, M, Hare secured together by
35
stitching 43. The. section 36 has an arcuate disposed below the extension, a retainer encom
passing
that
portion
of
said
means
positioned
edge M. and a horizontaledge '45. The section
in the sleeve, stitching securing one end of the
38 is of. oblong contour and formedv of a strip- of
fabric 45 and a. strip- of. padding material 41. retainer to the coat in proximity to the armhole,
The fabric. strip 66. is bent upon itself toprovide and stitching securing the other end of the re
tainer to the sleeve in proximity to the armhole
40 it of .U-shape in transverse cross. section and
the padding material 41' is. arranged within the andrfor'anchoring said means, retainer and sleeve
strip ‘36. The. strip 46 and‘ strip 41‘ are secured together, said means consisting of a substan
tially- semi-circular portion provided with a lat
together by. stitching G8. The section 31:. is posi
tioned against the strip. dirof section 36, in eral extension.
4. In a coat having a shoulder, an armhole 45
proximity to the said. horizontal edge 45 and is
45
and
a sleeve extended from the latter, the com
so arranged relatively to section 31 to provide
it to extend‘ in a manneras heretofore set forth. bination. of‘ means‘ having a portion located at
The means 35. is connected to and: arranged in the shoulder to constitute a pad for the latter
position ‘relative to‘ the body and sleeves of the and a portion extended'through the armhole into
the sleeve to constitute a support for the sleeve
coat in‘ a manner as: the means 2| is connected
50
head at the point toward the front of the sleeve
and arranged‘ in position. The means 35.‘ func
tions'for the samepurpose. asthe‘means 2|. The where the sleeve joins the body of the coat to
latter aswell as the means 35' possesses a soft provide a rounded effect in the'sleeve itself and
characteristic.
Each of the extensions is=toprovide a support
55
or padding to the sleeve head at the point to
ward the front of- a sleeve‘where the latter joins
the coat body to thereby produce a rounded
effect in the sleeve itself. The action of the
60 arms of the wearer do not crease the. supports
or paddings provided by the extensions, as what
ever creases appear in the fronts of the sleeves
caused by the movement of the arms are below
65
and under the extensions.
What I claim is:
1. In a method of manufacturing a coat, the
positioning of a pair of oppositely disposed pad
ding and supporting means relative to the shoul
ders and the heads of the sleeves of the coat,
positioning oppositely disposed retainers in en
whereby creases appearing in- the front of ‘ the
sleeve, caused‘ by the movement of the arm are i
disposed’bel'ow the extension; a retainer encom
passing that portion of-' said‘ means positioned
in the sleeve, stitching securing one end'of the
retainer to the coat in proximity to the armhole,
and stitching securing the other end of the re 60
tainer to'the sleeve in proximity to'the armhole
and for anchoring said-means, retainer and sleeve
together, said means consisting. of a semi-circular
section and‘ an oblong‘ section extending from
the horizontal edge and laterally'in opposite di 65
rections withrespect to‘ the curved edge of the
semi-circular section; said oblong section being
positioned at one side‘ of the semi-circular sec
tion.
70
JOSEPH‘ I-I‘ASPEL.
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