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Патент USA US2118408

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May 24, 1938.
M. |_. KAPLAN ET Al.
Filed‘ Aug.‘ 17, 1936
5 Sheets-Sheet ‘1
1769-2- '
May 24, 1938.
Filed Aug. 17, 1956
3 Sheets-Sheet 2
May 24, 1938.
Filed Aug. 1'7, 1936
5 Sheets-Sheet 5
E] “wk
Patented May 24, 1938
2,1 18,408
Morris L. Kaplan, Hazleton, and Gustav Kaplan,
Harrisburg, Pa., assignors, by mesne assign
ments, to Trubenizing Process Corporation,
New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York
Application August 17, 1936, Serial No. 96,490
1 Claim.
The present invention relates to collars and
refers particularly to- those of the folding or turn
down type.
5 which include an intermediate stiffening ply of
adhesive material cemented or fused to the other
> plies, we have found that when the collar is
pressed, there is usuallyformed a sharp edge
which is decidedly uncomfortable and annoying
to the wearer. Furthermore, the continued laun
dering and pressing places considerable strain on
of Figure 7,
Figure 9 is an enlarged perspective view of one 5
end-of the collar after the plies have been re
Figure 10 is a vertical section showing the plies
after being turned, but before the solvent has
been applied,
the fabric in the region of the fold, which results
Figure 11 is a section similar to Figure 10 after
the solvent has been applied and the plies pressed
in a break in both the fused interliner and outer
ply after a few washings.
Another objection
Figure 12 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional
resides in the fact that with collars of this type
View of the upper portion of the collar after the 15
when there is no positive means for determining
the fold line, an incorrect folding and pressing
frequently occurs in the laundering operation
plies have been pressed together showing the ar
and this renders necessary a complete re-laun
dering due to the presence of the fused material
and the permanent crease formed along the in
correct line of fold.
The present invention is designed to eliminate
these objectionable features by constructing a
collar having means for producing a de?nitely
marked line, of fold whereby the laundry oper
ator may determine, at a glance vwhere the fold
should be made. _ This materially expedites the
laundering operation and improves the appear
30 ance of the laundered collar. Furthermore, the
sharpness of the fold line is obviated by our ar
rangement as the means for determining the fold
line also insures a relatively soft roll or cush
ioned effect at the fold which is not only com
fortable to the wearer, but increases the life of
the collar. An additional advantage resides in
rangement of the cord and strip of paper,
Figure 13 is a view showing the neck band plies
stitched to the collar, but before being turned,
Figure 14 is a view of the completed collar with 20
the neck band portions reversed and stitched
down and ready for attachment to the shirt,
Figure 15 is a side elevation of a modi?ed form
of the invention after the plies have been initially
stitched together,
Figure 16 is a section taken on line l6—|6 of
Figure 15,
Figure 17 is a side elevation of a further modi~
?cation of the invention,
Figure 18 is a section taken on line i8—l8 of 30
Figure 17,
Figure 19 is a view showing the plies reversed
and being pressed and fused together, and
Figure 20 is a view showing the collar after
being fused and pressed.
In forming a collar incorporating the novel
the fact that this construction provides a tie space
features of our invention, we contemplate utiliz
between the collar and band which greatly fa
ing at least two outside plies of suitable material
cilitates the tie sliding operation.
and an intermediate ply or interliner capable of
being stiffened and adhesively secured to or fused
with the other plies to form a collar of either
the detached or shirt attached type. The par
I With the foregoing and other objects in View,
the invention will now be more particularly de
scribed, reference being had to the accompany
ing drawings wherein:
, Figure 1 is a side elevation of the interliner of
the preferred form of our invention,
.Figure 2 is an enlarged fragmentary section
taken on line 2—-2 of Figure 1,
Figure 3 is a side elevation of the inner ply
Figure 7 is a side elevation of the plies stitched
together before being reversed,
Figure 8 is a vertical section taken on line 8—8
In collars of this type and particularly those
(01. 2-143)
with the strip of paper attached,
Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary section
taken on line 4—4 of Figure 3,
Figure 5 is a side elevation of the outer ply,
Figure 6 is a section taken on line 6-6 of Fig
ure 5,
' ticular formation of the stiffened ply does not
form a part of this invention, but is preferably
of the type composed of woven threads of a cel
lulose derivative. As is well known inthe art,
this material is normally ?exible until treated
or moistened with a suitable solvent which, when
the collar is pressed, stiffens the interliner and
adhesively secures or fuses the same to the out
side plies.
In our method, we interpose along the fold
line between the interliner and one of the outer
plies, preferably the inner ply, a means for pre
venting fusing of the two plies, thus creating a 55
natural fold line. We prefer to secure a strip of
paper tissue or other light material either to the‘
each end; this prevents undue bulkiness of the
collar at these points. If the interliner and cord
interliner or one of the outside plies before ap
were not notched inthis manner, each end of
the cord would be folded upon itself, as well as
each extreme upper corner of the interliner.
plying the solvent, thus preventing adhesion of
the interliner to- the outer ply and creating an
area of greater ?exibility than the remainder of
the fold over or top portion of the collar and
facilitating the folding of the-collarat this point.
We preferably treat this area so as to provide
a marked and natural line of fold.
Referring now to the drawings, Figures 1 to 14
illustrate the preferred embodiment of the ‘in
vention wherein the numeral l0 designates the
intermediate ply or interliner and H and I2
15 the inner and outer plies respectively of a collar
of the attached type. In this form, the collar
comprises three plies and it is to be understood
that by inner ply, we mean that-one which‘in ‘the
completed article constitutes the inner or con
20 cealed ply when the collar is folded down or over
the neck band portion-of the collar. Likewise,
the outer ply is that one 'whichis exposed to
viewand‘constitutes theoutside'ply when'the col
lar is folded over or turned down upon-theneck
band portion.
‘Secured to one surface ofthe interliner‘!!! and
somewhat adjacent its top edge is a c0r1d‘l3.
This cord extends substantially the entire length
of the collar and, as noted in Figure 1,~terminates
in each instance at the notched portions M of
the interliner. These notches are formed in‘the
interliner for a particular ,purpose which will be
hereinafter described. While any desired-type of
threadmay be utilized'to secure the cord l3 to
35 the interliner, we prefer a thread l5 formed of a
celanese yarn which will'itself fuse and permit
the proper 'fusing‘of the cord and outer ply‘when
the plies are joined together. 'While a linen or
cotton threadcould be used, we have found ‘that
it interferes somewhat-with-the bonding‘of the
outerply and interliner and thus is not as effec
tive or satisfactory as a thread of celanese or
cellulose acetate. The .inner ply H has secured
thereto, by means of suitable stitching, a strip of
thin tissue-like material l6, such astissue paper.
Similarly to the cord 13 this strip extendslength
wise of the inner ply and is of su?icient'width to
encompass the cord when theseveral plies are
arranged in their ?nal positions Epreparatory‘to
fusing and connecting the collar :to the "neck
‘The next step in 1the formation. of the collar
comprises placing the three plies together, as
shown in Figures 7 and18, ‘with'the interliner Ill
and the inner ply H enclosing the outer ply 12.
These plies ‘are positioned with the cord 13 and
the strip of paper Ill exposed and the three
plies are then‘ secured together by suitable stitch
ing '11. The ‘collar is then turned inside ‘out
60 or reversed so that the interliner is enclosed with
in the inner and outer plies 1! and 12 as illus
trated in Figures 9 and 10 of the drawings. It
will be further observed that the strip of tissue
paper 16 is now secured to the inner face of the
inner ply ,H and is so positioned‘with respect to
the cord l3 that it entirely covers the latter, that
is, the cord is within the area covered by ‘the
strip. The three plies are .again stitched to
gether 'by, a row of stitching l8 which forms a
marginal border around'three sides of the collar.
By forming the notches M in each upper edge-of
the interliner and terminating each end of the
cord in rear of each notch, folding of the 'cord
ends in the turning operation is avoided and sev
75 eral thicknesses of material are ‘eliminated ‘at
The present construction, however, dispenses
with these objectionable features.
The plies are now in readiness to'be fused or
adhesively secured to the interliner and this may
.be accomplished in the usual manner, such as by 10
moistening the plies with a suitable solvent which
‘will render the cellulose derivative c-ementitious.
Figures 11 and 12 illustrate the collar after the
solventlhas been applied and the collar is now in
readiness for-‘the-next operation of attaching the
vneck band plies thereto. These plies comprise
an inner ply l9 constituting in eifect a continua
.tion ,of"the'plyllil,.an outer ply 20 and a suitable
lining .2! secured to the outer ply. As shown in
Figure 13, these plies may be secured to the
{upper-portion of theacollar either separately or in
one operation. After the neck band applying
operation, the Vplies I9, 20 and 2| vare then
reversed to ,the position shown iniFigure 14 and
"a doublelineofstitching 22 is applied lengthwise
of the collar to securely connect the neck band
§p1iest0 the remainder of the'collar. In this view,
:the collar proper .is complete, that is, the fold
'over portion and neck band portion are in
readiness to‘be secured to-the shirt in the usual
It will be observed that the lines of stitching
whichconnect the neckband portion to the rest
of the ‘collar are spaced-a slight distance from
the cord 13. ,Thus, when the collar is laidflat
during'the laundering operation, this cord‘ will-be
prominent through the-inner ply in the form of
.a longitudinally extending roll and thus desig
nate and constitute a permanent fold line which
the laundry operator may follow when folding
over and pressing down the collar. Furthermore,
by reason of the strip of paper 16 being inter
posed between :the inner ply and the interliner,
that portionzor area of the inner :ply will not be
fused to the interliner, with the result that there
is formed an area of greater ?exibility than the
rest of the fused portion =of thecollar. This, in
combination with the cord l3, permits the collar
to be folded over'along a de?nite line and with a
.rolled effect, as distinguished from the usual 0
sharpened folded portion of this type of fused
.collar, It is to be further noted that ‘thecord
l3, which may be of linen or cotton, has an addi
tional function in the formation of the rolled
fold. When the collar is being laundered and
after it is ready for pressing, that portion of the
collar where the cord is stitched, is considerably
thicker than the remainder of the fused portion
of the collar. Consequently. the moisture or
dampness will remain longer in the cord than in
the rest of the collar or at least during the fold—
ing operation. This has the effect of facilitating
the folding operation in that this portion of the
collar is softened and will assist in making the
rolled edge without placing any undue strain 65
on the plies.
Referring now to Figures .15 and 16 there is
disclosed a modi?ed form of the invention where
in a line of stitching is substituted for the cord
l3. In all other respects the collar is formed in
the same manner as that abovev described. Thus,
in Figure 16, which is a view similar 'to Figure 8,
the numerals 23, 24 and 25 represent the inter
liner, inner ply and outer ply respectively. The
interliner is provided with a line of stitching 26 75
extending longitudinally thereof and the inner
ply 24 has secured thereto a strip of tissue paper
21. When these plies are turned inside out, after
being stitched together, the line of stitching will
be positioned within the area covered by the
paper strip 21. The plies are then fused to the
interliner and the neck band portions stitched
to the fused collar. As in the other form of the
invention, the plies of the neck band will termi
10 nate a short distance from the line of stitching
26 and the fold line will be determined by this
line of stitching. While this fold line will not
be as pronounced as that in which the cord is
used, nevertheless, we have found that this form
of the invention constitutes quite an improve
ment over the usual form of fused collar; that is,
it permits the collar to be folded over along a
de?nite permanent line and in addition, prevents
a sharpened folded edge, and an early breaking
20 of the plies at this point.
Figures 1'7 to 20 illustrate another form of the
invention in which the fold line is impressed in
to the collar instead of being formed by a cord
or line of stitching. In this form of the inven
25 tion the collar consists of three plies, as in the
other forms. Figure 19 discloses the plies posi
tioned in their ?nal form, after they had been
stitched together and reversed and are in posi
tion to be fused or adhesively secured together.
30 In this view the numerals 28, 29 and 3B repre
sent the outer ply, interliner and inner ply re
spectively, with the strip of tissue paper 3| in
terposed between the interliner and inner ply.
The numeral 32 designates a pressing mechanism
35 which is adapted to press and fuse the plies to
gether immediately after the solvent has been
applied to the plies. It will be observed that a
cord 33 is attached to the top element of the
pressing mechanism at a point coincident with
40 the area of the strip of paper 3|. As the plies
are being pressed and fused together, the cord 33
will impress a groove 34 in the inner ply of the
collar. This is clearly shown in Figure 20 which
represents the collar after it has been pressed and
fused together. While we have found that this
groove is not as lasting as the cord and the line
of stitching, nevertheless, it will remain in the
collar after a considerable number of washings
and will function in the manner of the cord and
line of stitching, that is, it will provide a positive
designated fold line which may be followed by the
laundry operator in folding the collar over the
neck band. By reason of the strip of paper form-.
ing an area of greater ?exibility than the re
mainder of the fused portion of the collar, the
fold will have a rolled effect rather than‘ a sharp
ened edge, and the plies will not crack or break
at the fold.
While we have disclosed all of the forms of the
invention as being applied to a shirt attached
collar, it is to be understood that the invention
is readily applicable to a detached collar of the
turned down or folding type.
With this latter
form of collar, the inner and outer plies and in
terliner may of course be of a width to form both
the fold over portion and the neck band and may 1O
be either of a single piece of material or of sepa
rate pieces as desired. It is furthermore appar
ent that while We have shown the strip of paper,
the cord and line stitching as being applied some
,What adjacent the top portions of the plies, this 15
is not an essential feature of the invention as
the fused portion of the attached collar could, if
desired, be widened and constitute a considerable
portion of the neck band, with the cord and strip
of paper being positioned substantially centrally
of the longitudinal edges of the collar. Further
more, while we have designated tissue paper as
the preferred material to be used, the invention is
by no means limited to paper, as any relatively
thin material may be used in its place and func 25
tion properly to provide the area of increased
?exibility. Likewise, the interliner need not nec
essarily constitute a completely woven ply, but
may consist of a plurality of cellulose derivative
threads interposed between the inner and outer 30
Thus, in the attached claim, the terms
inner and outer plies, are considered to cover
plies regardless of whether they constitute both
the turned down portion and neck band, either
in one or more sections, and in either the at
tached or detached type of collar. Furthermore,
the term intermediate stiffening liner is con
sidered to cover both a woven ply or a plurality
of spaced threads. Also, the phrase “means de
?ning the fold line of the collar” is considered 40
broad enough to include a cord, line of stitching,
groove or any other suitable means which could
be used to de?ne the fold line.
We claim:
A folding or turn down collar comprising a
plurality of plies of fabric secured together by an 45
intermediate adhesive material, said adhesive
material having a cover on one surface thereof
covering a portion of the material to prevent the
ply adjacent to the cover from adhering in the
region of the cover to form an area of greater 50
?exibility than the remainder of the collar, and
means located in the ?exible area and de?ning
the fold line of the collar.
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