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Патент USA US2118889

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ay 31, 1938.
Filed Nov. 1s. 1935
2 sheets-sheet 1
'31, 1938.
H. s. LYNEss
Filed NOV. l5, 1935
2 Sheets-Sheet 2
Patented May 31, 1938
Horatio S. Lyness, Lynn, Mass., assignor to
United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson,
N. J., a corporation of New Jersey
Application November 13, 1935, Serial No. 49,523
4 Claims.
This invention relates to a method of orna
menting shoes and is herein illustrated in con
nection with the formation of ornamental cut
outs in shoe uppers. Apparatus for carrying out
the method constitutes the subject-matter of a
divisional application, Serial No. 137,088, ñled
April l5, 1937.
In the manufacture of shoes, particularly wom
en’s shoes, it is common practice to form orna
mental cut-outs or openings to constitute a de
sign in the shoe uppers. One Way of producing
such designs, as heretofore practiced, has been
to form the cut-out designs in flat blanks of up
per material and lining Which are later incor
porated in the shoe uppers.
However, difficul
ties have been experienced in this connection due
to the fact that in lasting the shoes the mate
rial adjacent to the cut-outs will stretch result
ing in distortion of the cut-out designs and ren
dering it more difficult to shape the uppers of
the shoes perfectly to the last. Another method
of producing cut-out designs has been to form
cut-outs in an upper blank, to secure a lining
to the blank, to assemble the shoe and substan
tially complete it, and then to form the cut-outs
in the lining by means of a trimming machine.
In this operation, however, considerable skill
upon the part of the operator may be required
in order to obtain satisfactory results because
of the difficulty of operating the trimming knife
to form small portions of the designs such as
sharp corners.
In View of the foregoing, it is an object of the
invention to provide an improved method by
which ornamental cut-outs can be produced in
shoes economically and in a satisfactory manner.
To this end and as illustrated, the invention pro
vides a method of ornamenting shoes which con
sists in severing the material of an upper blank
to form a cut-out except for small bridging por
tions of the lining, or of all the layers of the up
per, which connect the main body of the upper
blank and the material to be removed, incorpo
rating the blank in a shoe and thereafter, either
before or after the last is pulled from the shoe,
severing said bridging portions to complete the
cut-out. This method is advantageous in that
the greater portion of the cut-out design can
readily be formed in an upper blank as distin
guished from a shoe and, because of the bridg
ing portions remaining, the upper can be lasted
without distorting the design. It is to be noted
further that the operation of severing the bridg
ing portions can easily be done by hand and at
any time afterthe shoe has been lasted.
The invention in these and other aspects will
be apparent from the following detailed descrip
tion when taken in connection with the accom
panying drawings and will be set forth in the
In the drawings,
Fig. 1 is a perspective View illustrating the
manner in which the cut-out operation is com
pleted upon the assembled shoe;
Fig. 2 is a top View of an upper blank with out- '10
outs partially formed therein;
Fig. 3 is a View showing the reverse side of
the blank of Fig. 2;
Fig. 4 is a View of a part of an upper blank
which has been operated upon partially to» form if;
a cut-out in both the lining and upper;
Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional View of a portion of
a press illustrating the operation of a die upon
a blank in carrying out the method;
Fig. 6 is a perspective view of one form of die 20y
suitable for carrying out the method;
Fig. '7 is a cross-section of a portion of the die
taken along the line VII-VII of Fig. 6;
Fig. 8 is an enlarged sectional View of the die
illustrating the manner in which the die operates 25
upon an upper blank;
Fig. 9 is a perspective View of a die press ar
ranged for performing the cut-out operation; and
Fig. 10 is a perspective View illustrating a mod
iñed forni of die for performing the operation 30
illustrated in Fig. 4.
My novel method is especially adapted to pro
duce ornamental cut-out designs in shoes such
as the shoe lli illustrated by way of example in
Fig. l. As shown, the shoe I@ comprises an up- 3'5
per l2 having at the base of its strap i4 an orna
mental design which is composed of stitching I6
and cut-outs i8 and Ztl (shown only partially
completed) located within the lines of stitching.
In accordance with the method of the invention 40
such cut-outs are preferably formed by partially
severing the material of an upper blank such
as the blank 22 oi Fig. r2 prior to assembling the
`blank in a shoe. As shown in Fig. 2 such a blank
may comprise an outer member or layer 2i and 45
a lining 25 composed of leather or fabric and
secured together by adhesive or by stitching. In
performing the cut-out operation it has been
found practicable completely to cut away the ma
terial of the outer member 22 to form cut-outs 50
as indicated by the reference _character 28 while
at the same time to sever the material of the
lining along the lines of the design to be formed
as indicated by reference character 33, Fig. 3,
except for bridging portions 32 of the lining ma- 55I
2. .
terial which are left intact. The bridging por
tions 32 serve to prevent distortion of the blank
when it is assembled in the shoe and to this end
are preferably so located that they Will be op
positely disposed and will extend along the lines
of greatest stretch of the upper during the last
ing operation. The bridging portions 32 are made
of suiiicient width adequately to prevent such
distortion but can usually be so located as to be
10 positioned along straight or only slightly curved
portions of the cut-out design. The purpose of
this is to make it possible initially to sever the
material at the most difñcult portions of the de
sign so that the later operation of finishing the
15 cut-out will be reduced to a minimum and will
ordinarily involve making two simple cuts with
a knife. After the cut-outs are partially formed
the blank is assembled in the shoe and, if desired,
other operations toward completing the shoe can
20 be performed.
The final operation of completing
the cut-outs is illustrated in Fig. l and consists
merely 1n running a knife (33) by hand across
such bridging portions completely to sever the
material to be removed utilizing the last (34) a
25 a cutting block.
It is to be noted that by performing the cut
out operation completely on the outer portion
of the blank, for example by means of a die,
there is less likelihood of disturbing the design
30 or leaving a noticeable ragged edge which would
be more likely to occur if it were necessary to
perform a hand operation upon the exposed outer
layer. However, it is within the scope of the in
vention to perform the cut-out operation only
35 p-artially upon both the outer layer and the lin
ing, as shown in Fig. 4. In this instance the ma
terial of anupper blank 36 comprising an outer
member 38 and a lining 48 is severed through
both the outer member and lining along portions
40 42 of the cut-out, leaving bridging portions 44.
After the upper blank 36 is assembled in the shoe
the bridging portions of both lining and outer
member can be cut by means of a knife at any
time to form the completed cut-outs.
In carrying out my novel method I prefer to
make use of a die such as die 45 illustrated in
Figs. 5, 6 and 7. As shown, the die 45 comprises
a base 46 and one or more cutting blades 48
mounted upon the base. Each of the cutting
50 blades comprises a vertical wall 5D formed about
an opening 5l in the base 46, and Which cor
responds in shape to the outline of a cut-out to
be produced in a blank. The Outer side of the
Wall is beveled, as indicated by reference char
55 acter 52, Fig. '7, and terminates in cutting edges
54 which lie in a plane. 'I‘he wall 50 is recessed
to form oppositely disposed notches 56 and the
wall at the bases of the notches is beveled to form
auxiliary cutting edges 58 spaced from the plane
60 of the edges 54.
The width of the notches 56
corresponds to the width of the bridging portions
to be formed in the blanks, for example such as
the bridging portions 44 in the upper blank 22,
Fig, 3. 'I‘he manner in which such bridging-por
65 tions are formed is illustrated on an enlarged
scale in Fig. 8 in which the position of the die
45 is shown after a cutting operation upon an
upper blank comprising an outer layer 60 and a
lining 62. As shown the cutting edges 54 have
70 penetrated completely through the outer layer
60 and the lining 62 and the cutting edges 58 have
likewise penetrated through the outer layer 60
but have only partially entered the lining 62 with
the result that a section of material 64 has been
75 completely severed from the outer layer 6I] and
a section 66 has been severed from the lining 62
except for bridging portions 68.
As shown in Figs. 5 and 9 the die is preferably
mounted for operation in a press comprising a 0
shaped frame 10, a reciprocating plunger 12 and
a cutting bed 14. The die plate 46 is secured by
screws 16 to a holder 'I8 carried at the lower end
of the plunger and the cutting bed is provided
with a plate 88 of comparatively soft metal such
as brass with which the cutting edges of the die
The die is provided with means for stripping
from the die material cut from blanks, such
means comprising a plunger 82 slidably mounted
in the holder 18 and having pins 84 located with 15
in the individual blades 48 and having stripper
buttons 85, there being a spring 86 normally op
erative to force the pins in a downward direction.
In order to provide for the accurate locating
of the cut-outs in a blank there are provided two 20
gages 88 mounted upon the cutting bed 14 and ad
justably secured in position thereon by means of
screws 96 extending through slots 92 in the gages.
The gages 88 are arranged to engage opposite
edges of an upper blank such as a blank 94 to l0
cate it in position in proper alinement with the
cutting edges of the die.
In order to perform the operation illustrated
in Fig, 4, that is, partially to sever both the
outer layer and lining of a blank leaving bridg 30
ing portions in both members, I have provided
a modified form of die which, as illustrated in Fig.
10, comprises a cutting blade 96 terminating in
cutting edges 98 and having notches |00 in the
blade, the construction being similar to that of
the die illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7, except that
the blade at the bases of the notches is not sharp
ened and the distance from the bases of the
notches to the plane of the edges 98 is sufficiently
great so that the bases of the notches will not 40
engage the material of the blank as the edges 98
pass through it, thus leaving bridging portions
of the entire thickness of the blank connecting
the body portion of the blank With the material
to be removed. Dies thus constructed are par
ticularly adapted for use with materials which
are flimsy or which are more likely to stretch
during the lasting operation with the consequent
result that stronger bridging portions are needed.
It is believed that the operation of the dies
above described in forming cut-outs in shoes in
accordance with my novel method will be appar
ent from the foregoing description. In sum
mary, however, an upper blank, Figs. 5, 8 and 9,
is located upon the cutting bed 14 of the machine
with the portion of the blank to be operated up
on positioned by gages 88 in alinement with the
cutting blades 48 of the die 45. Upon depres~
sion of the plunger 'l2 the main cutting edges 54
of the die in coopera-tion with the auxiliary cut 60
ting edges 5B operate completely to form a cut
out in the outer member of the blank and the
edges 54 partially sever the lining to form a cut
out therein except for bridging portions 68. The
upper blank is then assembled in a shoe upon a
last and other operations toward completing the
shoe can be performed if desired. Subsequently,
the bridging portions are severed by a knife and
the remaining pieces of the lining are removed,
thereby completing the cut-out design.
Having described my invention, what I claim
as new and desire to secure by Letters'Patent of
the United States is:
. »1. A method of making shoes which consists
in providing an upper' blank, cutting through 75
the blank completely to form a cut-out therein
except for narrow bridging portions connecting
the body portion of the blank with material to
be removed therefrom, incorporating the blank
in a shoe, and completing the cut-out by sever
ing said bridging portions.
2. A method of making shoes which consists
in providing an upper blank comprising an outer
layer of sheet material and a lining, cutting
10 through the upper blank completely to form a
cut-out therein except for narrow bridging por
tions connecting the body portion of one or both
of the layers With the material to be removed
therefrom, incorporating the upper blank in a
shoe, and completing the cut-out by severing the
bridging portions of the lining.
3. That method of making shoes which con
sists in assembling blanks to be used as portions
of an upper and a lining, partially forming an
ornamental cut-out therein by cutting complete
ly through the upper and partly through the
lining, assembling the upper and lining in a
shoe upon a last, and completing the cut-out
by severing the remaining uncut portions of the
4. A method of making shoes which comprises
operating upon assembled portions of an upper
and a lining to form an ornamental cut-out in 10
the upper and to form a similar cut-out in the
lining except for bridging portions of material
left intact, incorporating the upper and lining
in a shoe, and completing the formation of the
cut-out in the lining by severing the said bridg 15
ing portions.
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