Патент USA US2121172код для вставки
June 21,1938. FQLov‘EJo-Y I “ ' 2,121,172 HEEL AND ITS ATTACHMENT TO SHOE Filed Aug. 22,1936 2 Sheets-Shéet 1 2 J1me 21, v1938. F. cfLo'vEJoY ‘ ' 2,121,172 HEEL AND ITS ATTACHMENT TO SHOE Fil‘ed Aug. 22, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 / // J////44/ ///// /// /05 ?vmvrma QM; Q, M - ' I Patented ‘Julie- --21, 1938 ‘ ‘ 2,121,172 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ' ' 3,121,172 HEEL ' ITS‘ ATTACHIHENT TO SHOEv Fred 0.10am, St. Louis, Mo., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Pater son, N. 1., a corporation of New Jersey _ Application August 22, 1936, .Serial misuse v 9 Claim. (01. 12-147) This invention relates to improvements in heel manufacturing the heels as will be hereinafter and shoe construction and is illustrated as em described and claimed. _ bodied in a novel shoe in which a short outsole The inventionand the many advantages re is combined with an improved heel in such a sulting therefrom will be readily understood and. 5 way as to overcome the defects of prior short-r appreciated after reading the following descrip outsole shoe constructions. - tion in connection with the accompanying draw - Although various expedients for inter?tting ings in which heels and short outsoles of shoes have been pro 10 posed, it has beenviound that in all such prior constructions, there is‘ -a tendency, especially pronounced in shoes ‘having high Cuban heels, for the joint between the breast of the heel and the rear end of the sole in the ?nished shoe to open up. This is due to the slight but constant ?exing of the‘shoe in the vicinity of its heel _ r Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a heel blank from whichpa Cuban heel embodying the invention may be made; _' . , 1 10 Fig. 2 shows in perspective the heel blank of ' Fig.‘ 1 after the sides of its forwardly projecting lip have been trimmed; ' ‘ . Fig. 3 is apartly sectional view showing the heel blank of Fig. 2 in the process of having ma- 15 breast line. It is an object of this invention to provide in a shoe having a short outsole an accurate and jecting lip, a sole-receiving channel being formed at the same time in its breast immediately be durable joint between the sole and the breast of low the lip; terial trimmed from the under side of its pro ' the heel which is not visible at the sides of the‘ ‘Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the heel blank 2° 'heel and which is not subject to the drawbacks of Fig. 2 after it has been operated upon by the 20 of prior shoe‘ constructions. With this object in view, and in accordance‘ with a feature of the invention, I have provided a heel adapted for interengagement with the rear end of a short outsole attached to a shoe and hav-‘ ing at the upper portion of its breast va lip suf ?ciently thin and narrow to lie for substantially its full length between the outsole and the shoe 30 bottom. Below the lip isprovided a ledge so shaped- and spaced from the lip as to form with the lip a sole receiving ‘channel of a width sub: stantially equal to the thickness of a normal out sole, said channel extending transversely of the 35 heel immediately beneath the‘ lip and having up wardly turned ends which terminate in the at taching face adjacent to the breast corners of the heel. The channel will preferably be of arm ate shape transversely of the heel and will extend 40 depthwise in. a direction approximately parallel to the plane of the rim of the attaching face of the heel. Since the sole-receiving channel of the heel terminates inwardly from the sides of the heel no portion of the sole is visible back of the 45 breast of the heel. It is also preferable to extend the reenforcing lip a‘ considerable distance. for wardly of the breast of the heeland press the rear end of the short outsole into the channel ‘ so that there is no relative ?exing of the heel and channeling machine indicated in Fig. 3; ' , Figs. 5 and 6 are perspective and plan views, respectively, of the heel prior to covering; Fig. '7 shows in perspective the heel~ of Figs. 25 5 and 6 after. it has been covered: Fig. 8 is _a perspective view of the heel end of a shoe having a short outsole which has been trimmed to receive the heel of Fig. 7; 7 Fig. 9 is a section on the line IX-IX of Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a view ‘similar to‘ Fig. 8 but showing - the end of the short outsole, which still has been prepared to receive the heel of Fig. 7, as of a somewhat di?erent form; ' Fig.‘ 11 is a side elevation,‘ partly in longitudin section, of the heel end of the shoe of Fig. 8 35 after the heel of Fig. 7 has been attached thereto: Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a Louis heel embodying the invention; . Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the rear end of a shoe having a short outsole the end of which‘ has been fitted for the reception of the heel illus trated in Fig. 12; and _ . Fig. 14 is a perspective view, partly broken away and in section, of the shoe illustrated in 45 Fig. 113, with the heel of Fig. 12 attached thereto; Figs. 5, 6 and’! of the drawings illustrate a Cuban heel 20 having in the upper portion of its breast 2| a channel 22 shaped toreceive the rear I the outsole in the vicinity of its heel-breast line end of a short outsole 24 (Fig. 8) attached to a 50 in the ?nished sh shoe 26. . The channel 22 terminates inwardly of . The joint between the sole and the breast of e heel is therefore not likely '_ the side faces 28 (Fig. 5) of the heel 26. and pref to open up as in prior shoe constructions having erably intersects the attaching face 3. 01' the inter?tting heels and short outsoles. _ The invention resides also in improvements in heel back of the subjacent portion of the breast at opposite sides of the base portion of a reen- 55 2 2,121,172 forcing lip 32 which extends a substantial dis tance forwardly from the breast 2| of the heel. The upper wall of the channel 22 is formed by the under face 36 of the lip 32 which is of less width than the upper portion of the breast 2i of the heel 20, and the width of the channel is substantially equal to the thickness of a normal outsole. In heels for women’s shoes, for exam ple, this thickness would be of the order of six 10 or eight irons, more ‘or less, as distinguished from that of a very thin piece of leather such as is commonly used to cover the breast of a heel. The heel 20‘ may be described as having a sole supporting ledge or lower channel wall 38 which 15 extends from one forward portion of the rim 40 of the attaching face 30 of the heel to the other, and an approximately vertical shoulder 42 which It will be noted that the rim 40‘ of the attach ing face 30 of the heel 20 lies in a plane which is spaced from and overlies the lip 32. The lip 32 may therefore be described as being located be tween the sole-receiving channel 22 and the plane of the rim of the attaching face of the heel. The heel 20 (Figs. 5 and 6) may be covered by a single piece of covering material 68 (Fig. 7) I the forward margins of which are secured in overlapping relation to the breast 2i of the heel, the top margin of the cover being inturned upon and secured to the attaching face 30 of the heel and to the lower wall 38 of the channel 22, or it may be covered in any other suitable manner, 15 or otherwise ?nished, as by lacquering. The short outsole 24 of the shoe 26 has a rear or end face 12 which is located a short distance rear wardly of the heel-breast line 10 of the sole. It is ' The heel 20 (Figs. 5 and 6) may be formed from common practice to skive material from the lat a heel blank 44 (Fig. 1) of the type used in the eral margins of the ?esh side of the shank por construction of Continental heels, the heel blank tion of the outsole before the same is attached having a ?at upper face 46, a substantially ?at _ to the shoe, thereby to provide the sole with bev upper breast portion, and a forwardly projecting eled margins 13. The outsole 24 is of substan lip 48 which extends from one side of the blank to tially uniform width from its breast line 10 rear the other. Before forming the sole-receiving wardly. The width of the rear portion of the out channel 22 it is preferable to trim material from sole 24 of the shoe may be varied in accordance the sides of the lip 48 by the use, for example, with the length of the channel 22 of the heel to be attached to the shoe, the proportions being such of a pair of spaced milling cutters (not shown) whereby to form a heel blank 50 having a lip 52, that the edges of the outsole of the finished shoe as shown in Fig. 2. In reducing the lip 48 to the extend laterally approximately to, but not be yond, the breast corners 14 of the heel. form shown in Fig. 2 it is desirable that the cut In order to provide a shoe having a heel seat ting strokes of the teeth of the milling cutters shall progress toward the under side of the lip, which is substantially complemental to the at that is, away from the flat surface 46. The taching face of the heel to be attached to the shoe the heel seat 15 (Fig. 8) of the shoe 26 (Fig. heel blank 50 is then presented to a rotating tu bular saw 54 (Fig. 3) of a channeling machine 8) may be built up by means of either a suitably to form the heel blank 55 illustrated in Fig. 4. shaped piece of sheet material or by using a mix ture 18 of plastic material (Fig. 11) , for example. The heel blank 50 may be supported in the chan neling machine upon a table 58 carried by a slide cement andsawdust, which may be applied to 60 which is movable in directions 62 lengthwise the shoe by a machine such as that disclosed in application for United States Letters Patent Seri of the tubular saw 54'. The heel blank 50 is cen tralized in the channeling machine by suitable al No. 81,299, ?led May 22, 1936 in the name of . mechanism (not shown) with the breast edges John T. Lancaster. In order to position the covered heel 1i upon 64 of the heel in engagement with a bar 66 which is used to locate the‘heel blank properly in the the shoe 2B preparatory to attaching the same to machine. After- the heel blank 50 has been po ‘ the shoe, the heel is' moved toward and forwardly sitioned upon the table 58, the blank vand the of the prepared heel seat of the inverted shoe with its lip 32 tilted slightly downwardly, caus table are moved to the right (Fig. 3) a predeter mined distance controlled by a stop (not shown) ing the lip to enter a cavity 16, between the rear thereby removing material from the under side of end of the outsole 24 and the shoe bottom, and the lip 52 and to form the channel 22. ‘The causing the rear portion of the outsole 24 to be channel 22 formed by'the rotating tubular saw 54 engaged within the channel 22. When the heel has been moved to its proper position upon the may be referred to as a cylindrical kerf the ele ments of which extend generally lengthwise of shoe it is attached in any suitable way. If de the heel. It may alsovbe described as being of sired, a small quantity of the above-mentioned mixture of pyroxylin cement and sawdust in a arcuate shape transversely of the heel and ex tending depthwise in a direction approximately moldable condition may be inserted‘ in the cav forms the bottom of the channel 22. 20 N) in 30 40 45 50 parallel to the plane of the rim of the attaching face. The top face 48"of the heel blank 55 is 60 then presented to a concaving machine (not shown) slightly vto concave the attaching face 30 v of the heel and to remove material from and con cave the upper face of the lip 69 of the heel blank > 55. The upper face of the lip 32 (Figs. 4 and 5) is 20 25 30 40 45 55 ity 16, just before the heel is positioned upon the shoe. ‘ The width of the channel 22 may be varied to 60 accommodate outsoles 24 of different thicknesses, and the curvature of the channel and therefore the under surface 36 of the lip 32 also may be varied in accordance with the transverse curva 65 ture of the shank portion of the outsole. In order to insure a strong and durable joint between the heel 'H (Fig. 7) and the outsole 24 (Fig. 8) it is desirable that the lip of the heel be fairly rigid with relation to the remaining por tion of the heel and that the channel 22 be nar from the sides of the projecting lip 48 (Fig. 1) row enough to be completely ?lled by the end of of the heel blank 44 by the tubular saw 54 during » the sole 24, or even better that the sole be com therefore continuous with the attaching face 30 of the heel. By practicing the above method the heels 20 can be quickly and effectively formed ‘from the heel blanks 44 without danger of split ting the heels in the vicinity of their upper breast 70 corners. If desired material _may be removed the channeling operation without the prior per formance of the milling operation already re 75 ferred to. ' pressed somewhat by the channel, thereby form ing a tight joint between the heel and the out sole. Since the channel 22 terminates inwardly 75 .) 2,121,173 from the sides 28 of the heel, no portion of the outsole is visible‘ back of the heel-breast line 10 of the ?nished shoe. Although the channel 22 is illustrated as ex tending only a short distance ‘rearwardly of the breast of the~heel, it is contemplated to increase the depth of the channel, if desired, and to drive one or more heel-attaching nails through the portion of the outsole engaging within'the chan 10 nel. The rear face ‘I2, (Fig. 11) of the outsole 24 usually does not engage the bottom 42 of the channel 22 since the outsole is usually cut slight ly shorter than. necessary in order to insure that the‘ heel can be moved forwardly to its‘proper 15 position upon the shoe. I . The short outsole 24>(Fig; 8) may be quickly and effectively formed in the stock ?tting room and does not have to be trimmed for the recep tion of the covered heel ‘II after attachment to the shoe upper.. By providing the new heel it is therefore possible to utilize short‘ outsoles which cost considerably less than outsoles of the stand ard length, and which may be ?nally prepared for the reception of heels at a low cost before By securing the rear“ end ~ attachment to shoes. of the outsole 24 in the channel 22 and interpos ing the lip 32 of the heel between the outsole and the shoe upper for a substantial distance for ward of the heel-breast line 10 of the sole, the 30, slight but constant relative ?exing of the heel and the sole of the shoe in the vicinity of its heel breast line is'avoided: , Although it is, I believe, generally satisfactory v _ . ' 3 In the manufacture of shoes having Louis heels it is common practice to use extra long outsoles in order to split heel-breast covering ?aps there from. My invention makes it unnecessary to cover the breast offthe heel with a ?ap split from the outsole, thus ‘permitting the use of short out solesin the“ manufacture of. shoes having Louis heels, with a, consequent saving even greater‘ ‘than when Cuban heels are used. ' Having described the invention, what I claim as 10 new and desire ‘to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: _ _ . _ 1. A shoe having a short outsole, and a heel having at the v‘upper portion of its breast a lip which is of considerably less width than the breast 15 of the heel and which extends a substantial dis-‘ tance forward of said breast and is located be tween the rear end portion ‘of the short outsole and the shoe'bottom, said heel also having _in the upper portion of its breast-a channel within which 20. the rear end portion of said outsole is received, one wall of said channel being formed by said lip and the other wall of the channel extending from one side of the attaching face of the heel to the otherand providing a ?rm support for the rear end portion of the short outsole. 2. A shoe having a short outsole,.and a heel having a projecting lip which is of less width than the upper portion of the breast'of the heel, pro-_ jects forward of the breast of the heel‘ and‘ is 30. positioned between the outsole and the shoe bot tom, said heel being provided with a channel in which the rear end of the short-outsole engages to trim‘ the outsole to the- shape illustrated in. and which channel extends around the under Fig. 8 in the stock ?tting room, it will be under face 'of the lip and terminates inwardly from stood that theoperator may further reduce the the side faces of the heel. > rear lateral portions of a sole 80 (Fig. 10) by 3.‘ A shoe having a short outsole provided with ~ beveling cuts after the same has been attached shoulders, and a heel having in the upper end ~ to the shoe','in order to form tapered slot-engag , of its breast a channel within which the rear end 40 ing portions 02 and heel-breast receiving shoul portion of the outsole engages. and having a re ders 84. _Such an operation is desirable whenthe enforcing lip which forms one wall of ‘the channel, 40 ', lateral margins of the shank portion of the sole said lip being positioned between the outsole and attached to the shoe have not been skived to any the shoe bottom and extending forward of the considerable degree and are therefore relatively breast corners of the heel which, are in engage 45 thick. ‘ ment with the shoulders formed upon said outIn Fig. 12 there is illustrated axlacquered or sole. painted heel 86 of the Louis type having in‘ the . , 4. A shoe having a short outsole provided with upper portion of its breast a channel 88 con-. a pair of heel-breast receiving shoulders, and a structed and arranged to receive the rear end heel of the Louis type having at the upper por 60 of the short outsole.’ The channel 80 may be tion of its breast a sole-receiving channel within _ formed by presenting the Louis heel to the slot which the rear end‘ of said outsole engages, said ting machine indicated in Fig. 3. The heel 06 ‘heel also having a projecting lip which is posi may be described as having a cylindrical sole-en. tioned between the rear end portion of the out gaging ledge 90 which extends substantially‘from sole and the shoe bottom, the middle portion of the wall of the channel which is opposite the lip overriding the sole and the upper breast cor-, 55 one of ‘the forward portions of the rim of the attachingface 94 of the heel to the other. It will be noted that the marginal portions of the ledge are wider than the central portion of the ledge‘. The upper wall 96 of the channel 80 is 60 formed by the under side of a thin, narrow reen forcing lip 98 which extends a substantial dis tance forwardly of the upper breast corners I00 of the heel. However, if the lateral margins of the shank portion of the sole have been reduced 65 by skiving cuts to produce an outsole, as shown 'at 24 in Fig. 8, the forward edge I02 ofthe ledge 90 will override the entire width of the sole with out the necessity of trimming the sole by hand after the sole has been applied to the shoe. If 70 the margins of the shank portion of an outsole I04‘ attached to a shoe I05 are relatively thick, as ' illustrated in Figs. 13 and 14, the rear. marginal .portions of the outsole preferably should be skived to provide slot-engaging portions I06 and heel-breast receiving shoulders_l00'. ‘ ner portions of the heel. abutting the shoulders. ‘ 5. That improvement in methods of making heels which comprises, forming at the upper por-v tion of the breast of ,a heel blank a forwardly 60 projecting lip disposed at an angle to the breast and extending from one side of the heel blank to the other, "reducing the lip widthwise by re moving material from the sides of the same, and removing material from the under side of the lip 65 and forming in the breast of the heel blank 2. sole-receiving channel and a rearward extension of the lip which overlies the channel. 6. That improvement in methods of making heels which comprises, providing 'a heel blank 70 ‘having at the upper end of its breast a forwardly projecting lip extending from one side of the heel blank to the other, rem°oving material from the sides of the lip‘ by a plurality oflcutting strokes which progress toward the under side of 75 .. 4 2,121,172 the lip, and forming in the breast of the heel blank beneath the reduced lip a sole-receiving channel which intersects the top face of the heel blank at opposite sides of the reduced lip and ' increases the length of said reduced lip. 7. A heel adapted for interengagement with the rear end of a short outsole having no heel breast ?ap attached to a shoe, said heel having a substantially ?at upper breast portion provided with a lip the base of which is a substantial dis tance back of the subjacent portion of the breast, said lip extending a substantial distance forward of said subjacent portion and being su?iciently ‘thin and narrow to lie for substantially its full 1 5 length between said outsole and the shoe bottom after the outsole has been attached, said heel also having a ledge below said lip so shaped and spaced from the lip as to form with the lip a sole receiv ing channel of a width substantially equal to the full, unreduced thickness of said outsole, and with the terminals of said channel in the attach ing face of the heel adjacent to the breast cor ners, said channel being of arcuate shape trans versely of the heel and extending depthwise in a direction approximately parallel to‘ the plane ‘of the rim of the attaching face. 8. A heel adapted for interengagement with the rear end of a short outsole having no heel breast ?ap attached to a shoe, said heel’ having a substantially ?at upper breast portion provided with a lip‘the base of which is a substantial dis ‘ tance back of the subjacent portion of the breast, (said lip extending a substantial distance forward of said subjacent portion and being su?lciently thin and narrow to lie for substantially its full length'between said outsole and the shoe bottom after the outsole has been attached, said heel also having a ledge below said lip so shaped and spaced from the lip as to form with the lip a sole receiving channel of a width substantially equal to the thickness of a normal outsole, and with the terminals of said channel in the attaching face of the, heel adjacent to the breast corners, said channel being of arcuate shape transversely 10 of the heel and extending depthwise in a direc tion approximately parallel to the plane of the rim of the attaching face. 9. A heel adapted for interengagement with the rear end of a short outsole having no heel 15 breast ?ap attached to a shoe, said heel having a substantially flat upper breast portion pro vided with a lip the base of which is a substan tial distance back of the subjacent portion of the breast, said lip being su?iciently thin and narrow 20 to lie for substantially its full length between said outsole and the shoe bottom after the outsole has been attached, said heel also having a ledge below said lip so shaped and spaced from the lip as to form with the lip a sole receiving channel of a width substantially equal to the thickness) of a normal outsole, and with the terminals of said channel in the attaching face- of the heel adjacent to the breast corners, said channel being of arcuate shape transversely of the heel and 30 extending depthwise in a direction approximately ' parallel to the plane of the rim of the attaching face. ' FRED C. LOVEJOY.