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Патент USA US2122303

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June 28, 1938.
E. v. ToLEN ET A1. A
29122303
NECK BAND FORMING APPARATUS
Filed March 18, 1933
2 .Sheets-Shee'î; l
2.1M
June 28, 193%.
E. v.V ToLEN ET AL
. 2,322,303
NECK BAND FoRMrNG APPARATUS
Filed WMarch 1s, 19573
„El /
2 snèe'tsîsneet 2 ’
2,122,363
Patented June 28, 1938
UNITED STATES PATENT oEFlcE
2,122,303
NECK BAND FORMING APPARATUS
Earl V. T‘olen and Charles B. Harbstreit, Bedford,
Ind., assignors to Reliance Manufacturing
. Company, Chicago, Ill., a corporation of Illinois
Application March 18, 1933, Serial No. 661,478
10 Claims. (C1. 223--38)
Our invention relates to neck band forming
apparatus. More especially it is concerned with
apparatus for temporarily embossing the neck
bands of shirts in such a manner that the em
5 bostures may conveniently serve as guide marks
subsequently to aid the sewing machine operator
in attaching the neck band to the collar band and
to the body of the shirt'in the proper position.
This embossing apparatus is incorporated in a
10 folding machine of the type customarily used in
forming the two plies of the neck band and fold
ing over the margins of the plies. Our apparatus
solves the problem of a ready and convenient ad
justment of the location of the embossings for
15 different sizes of neck bands.
The embossed markings thus formed on the
neck bands are an improvement over the pre
vious practice of forming guide notchings in the
folded-under margins of the neck band.
'I‘he
20 notches were not visible on the face side of the
neck band; and the notches weakened the
strength of the double thickness of the mate
rial along the folded margins of the neck band.
The foregoing together with other objects, fea
25 tures and advantages of our invention are set
forth in the following description of a' specific
embodimentthereof and illustrated in the ac
companying drawings referred to, wherein:
Fig. 1 is a plan view of the bed portion of a
30 folding machine for neck band blanks (which may
be considered asan adaptation of Fig. 3 of Roby
Patent 1,600,364);
'
Fig. 2 is a bottom View on a slightly enlarged
scale of the die head- used in connection with the
35 bed 'of Fig. 1 which view may be considered as
taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 3;
,
Fig. 3 is a _fragmentary transverse vertical
section through the assembled bed and head and
may be considered as taken on the lines 3-3 of
40
Figs. 1 and 2;
'
`
The two-ply neck band which we prefer to use
in carrying out our invention may be of the con
ventional type in which pairs of similar blanks
have their marginal edges turned back and
creased by a folding machine. Fig. 4 shows the 5
two-ply neck band B as it comes from the fold
ing machine. The two lplies Bl and B2 are ini
tially internested in the folding machine opera
tion whereby their seam margins 20 are turned
'back and creased. For use, the plies are of course 10
pulled out of the internesting relation and placed
back to back with their seam margins together.
This is accomplished by turning one of the plies
endto end in relation to the other ply.
A feature of our invention is the guide mark
15
ings on the neck band plies, which are preferably
in the form of bar-like embostures 2| at the collar
edge near the ends, where the ends of the attach
ing edge of the collar come, and 22 on the yoke
edge and somewhat nearer the center, where the 20
shoulder seams will come.
In Figs. l, 2 and 3'we have shown fragments
of -the folding machine mechanism in which is
incorporated means for forming these embossed
guide-markings 2| and 22. Fig. 1 may be con
sidered as an adaptation of Fig. 3 of Roby Patent
1,600,364 of September 21, 1926 and reference is
made to that patent for details of a satisfactory
folding machine in which our embossing invention
may be incorporated. A heating pad RIEB (for 30
convenience we shall follow the reference char
acters of the Roby patent for analogous parts),
which constitutes the platen, is mounted on a bed
plate R51. A heat plate RI 34 is mounted a spaced
distance above the bed plate with the folding sec
tions RI36, R137 slidably mounted between the
bed plate and the heating plate and in sliding
contact with the heating plate so that they absorb
heat from the latter. A pair of neck band blanks
BI and B2 is placed upon the heat pad RI58 40
Fig. 4 is a plan view of a double neck band as through the opening formed in the heating plate
produc-ed by the apparatus in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 and folding sections. 'I'he die head, the bottom
and showing the'guide marks impressed therein; `view of which is shown in Fìg..2 comprising the
end die sections'Rlllß and the intermediate die
and
‘
section RIDS, are brought down into this open
Fig.
5
is
a
plan
View
of
a
shirt
laid
outside
45
down on the table of a sewing machine (the sewing ing to clamp the neck band blanks against the
heat pad Ri58, The folding sections Rl36 and
machine being shown in plan section) illustrat
RI 31 are then moved inwardly across the margins
ing how the collar is sewn to the neck band em’
of the openings to fold the seam margins 2U of
ploying the markings of our invention.
the
neck band blanks upwardly and inwardly and
We shall ñrst explain the construction of the'Á
50
neck band with its embossed guide vmarkings, to crease them in that position. If desired, the
margins of the blanks may previously have been
then the folding machine and the features thereof _
whereby the embossed marks are formed on the saturated with a suitable solution--alcohol and
neck band, and then the operation of sewing the water for example-to >give something of a
starched effect to the creased-over seamed mar-` 55
55. body and collar to the neck band.
2
2,122,303
gins and to the embostures 2| and 22. Following
this folding and creasing action, the die head is
lifted and the neck bands, whose margins have
CH
been creased over the die sections, are stripped
from the die sections and are ready for the previ
ously described operation of turning one ply end
to end in reference to the other, so that their
seam margins come together.
’I'he means we have shown incorporated in the
The collar band plies BI and B2 are arranged as
previously described with their in-creased seam 10
comprise cooperating male and female die ele
ments formed in the heating pad R|58 and the
end die sections Rlllß. To form the embostures
band to» the body assembly, the stitching is com
menced at the button end b of the band, where
20 of complementary slots 2|F constituting the fe
male die elements. . (It will be remembered that
Fig. 2 is on a larger scale than Fig. 1.)
To form the yoke side embostures 22, similar
die members are'employed, except that the male
25 embostures 22M are on the heating pad and the
female members 22]c are on the die section R||l8.
The reason that the die slots 2|F and 22F are
multiplied into a group is to permit the die sec
tions Rl 08 to be spaced farther apart or closer to
40.
45
50
55
lies with its inside up on the sewing machine
table 33 initially at the left of the needle 34.
folding machine, as illustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3,
2| on the collar edge, a bar-like male protruding>
die element 2 IM is formed in or suitably attached
to the surface of each die section R|08 at the
point on the collar edge of the die section where
the embosture 2| is to appear. At the correspond
ing regions on the heat pad R|58 are two series
35
od and apparatus used in assembling the neck
band body and collar:
Referring to Fig. 5, the body of the shirt com
prises the usual yoke 30, the left front piece 3|L;
the right front piece SIR. and the back piece 32.
In the sewing operation, the shirt body assembly
gether to adjust for different lengths of collar
bands, there being one slot 22F for example on
each. die section RIUB for each adjustment of
that die section.
It will be observed that in forming the embos
tures 2|, the male die member ZIM is carried
by the die sections, whereas` in forming the em
bostures 22, the male die element 22M is carried
by the heating pad. ’I‘he reason is this: The
folding machine of Figs. 1, 2 and 3 is adjustable
to take diiîerent lengths of collar bands. Thus
on the die head, the die sections R||l8 may be
moved in >or out relative to the intermediate die
section RI 09. The heat plate R|34 and the fold
ing sections R|36 and R|3`| may be correspond
ingly adjusted to come somewhat closer together
or further apart. 'I'he heating pad R|58 is not
adjusted. For different lengths of neck bands,
the distance from the pointed end of the band to
the embosture 2|, which is the point where the
end of the collar comes, remains constant.
Therefore the distance between the two em
bostures 2| must vary with different sizes. On
the other hand the distance between the em
bostures 22, which marks the approximate posi
tions of the shoulder seam of the yoke, do not vary
substantially, or if they do vary, they do not
Vary by as great a distance as the Variations in
lengths of the collar band, and also as will later
appear, it is not so necessary that the embostures>
60
22 be spaced a definite distance apart as- it is that
their spacing be equi-distant from the Vcenter of
the band. If the male die elements 2 IM were on.
margins facing each other.
To sew the collar
the loose ends of the threads are indicated at 35’.
The line of stitching 35 is run along the margins
of the respective plies of the bands with the body
assembly between the plies. Thus the band is
sewn first to the righthand side piece 3| R, then
to the yoke 3l) and then to the left hand side
piece 3| L. When the needle reaches the button 20
hole point bh, the sewing machine is stopped and
the entire assembly is rotated clockwise about
the needle as a pivot until the body assembly lies
to the right of the needle somewhat as shown in
Fig. 5.
`
>
25
Then the second line of stitching 35ct-which is
really but a continuation of the ñrst line 35-
sews directly together the respective plies of the
neck band between the point and the place where
the collar is to be inserted. The operator inserts 30
the collar to register substantially with the em
bosture 2 I. Then the line of stitching 35a is con
tinued to stitch the two plies of the collar band
together with the edge of the collar assembly be
tween them. In Fig. 5 the second line of stitch
ing 35a has progressed about half way. After
it reaches the second embosture 2| which cornes
at the other end of the collar, the stitching con
tinues to the button point b, stitching the ends of
the neck band plies directly together. The sec
ond line of stitching 35a. terminates at the same
point where the line of stitching 35 commenced.
The sewing operation may be facilitated by the
use of the guide 31 removably carried by the
plate 38 as described and claimed in our copend
ing application Serial No. 661,479 filed March 18,
1933. The construction of the shirt and the
method of making it are disclosed in greater de
tail and claimed in our copending application Se
rial No. 661,476 ñle'd March 18, 1933.
50
The embostures 22 substantially align with the
shoulder seams 3| between the yoke and the side
pieces.` Thisalignment is calculated to serve as
a guide for the operator in giving the right
amount of pull to the various parts. The under 55
feed dog of the sewing machine has a tendency
to make the lowermost ply of the goods being
sewn overrun the upper plies. The neck band
should be a triñe shorter on the inside than on
the outside so that the neck will ñt properly when 60
being worn'.
The embostures 22 thus serve as a
guide to enable the operator to see that the proper
the heating pad, their distance apart would not longitudinal relations between the parts are be
ing kept as the stitching 35 progresses.
65 be varied by the adjustment for different lengths
The embostures 2| on the collar side of the
of neck bands. If the male die elements 22M band serve as guides to show the operator the
were on the die sections, their distance apart exact point where the collar is to be inserted in
would be increased or diminished according to the band. >'I'his determines the proper longi
differences in the total length of the neck band. tudinal relationship between the collar and .the
'70. Neither of these conditions would be so satisfac band. When a guide such as indicated at 31 and 70
tory for our purpose.
described in our previously mentioned applicationl
Having thus explained the construction of the> on the sewing machine, is used, the guide em
two-ply neck bands with their embossed guide
marks and the apparatus and method whereby
75 they are formed, we shall now describe the meth
bosture 2| also marks the point in the stitching
at which the guide is. to be thrown into position
to guide the collar relative to rthe band and the 75.
2,122,303
3
needle. As suggested in Fig. 5,.the second em' ' the collar edge of the band, short marginal guide
bosture 2| encountered by_the needle may slightly marks at the points where the ends of the. col
overrun the end of the collar due to the factthat
the button end b of the neck band should not
:à project so far beyond the end of the collar as
does the buttonhole end. We contemplate there#
fore that it may be arranged to have the embos
ture 2 I , at the button end of the neck band which
is sewn last, spaced somewhat nearer the point
than is the other embosture 2l, in locating the
die members in the embossing mechanism incor
porated in the folding machine. The presence of
the embosture 2| at the end of the neck band
last sewn is of advantage in enabling the opera
15 tor to gauge that the feed as between upper and
lower plies and also relative to the collar assem
bly, is progressing satisfactorily so that the as
sembly will come out correctly.
The use of a guide mark for the neck band in
20 the form of an embosture thereon has several
advantages: It is exposed on the top side of the
work where it is readily seen; guide marks in the
form of notches in the in-creased seam margins
ofthe band plies are not readily visible. It re
25 sults in no structural weakness.
There is no
color or foreign substance involved which might
soil a completed shirt. It is not permanent and
it is not obtrusive; by the time the shirt reaches
the customer it is scarcely visible and in any
30 event disappears completely with the ñrst wash
ing.
It involves no additional labor expense;
lar are to come, the male embossing die mem
bers cooperating with different embossing die
members in the platen for different longitudinal
adjustments of the die head, and a pair of male
embossing die members in the platen at the body
edge of the band and cooperating longitudinally
spaced embossing members carried by the die
head for forming embossed guide marks on the 10
body edge at the points where the shoulder seams
of the body are to come, the male embossing die
member on the body edge cooperating with dif
ferent cooperating die members in the die head
for different longitudinal adjustments of the die 15
head.
3. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on
the collar edge and on the body edge of a fabric
neck band, comprising a platen, a co-acting die
head having longitudinally adjustable portions
adapted for different lengths of bands, male em
bossing die members carried by the die head and
disposed at fixed distances inwardly from the
ends thereof, a plurality of longitudinally spaced
female embossing die members formed in the 25
platen for cooperating with the first-mentioned
die members for embossing, in the collar edge of
the band, short marginal guide marks at the
points where the ends of the collar are to come,
the male embossing die members cooperating 30
with different embossing die members in the
platen for different longitudinal adjustments of
the die head, and a pair of male embossing die
cutting notches as guide marks in the aggregate
add substantially to the labor in cutting (with
the additional danger of cutting the notch too
deeply and thereby spoiling the piece for use)
and in the labor of the sewing machine opera
tor where the speed does not have to be slowed
down because of the obscurity of the marking.
members in the platen at the body edge of the
band and cooperating longitudinally spaced em 35
bossing members carried by the die head for
forming short marginal embossed guide marks
on the body edge at the points where the shoul
While We have thus describd this specific em
bodiment of our invention, we contemplate that
changes may be made therefrom without de
parting from the scope or spirit of our inven
tion. Among other things, we particularly con
template that certain features of our invention
bossing die member on the body edge cooperatn 40
ing with different cooperating die members in
the die head for different longitudinal adjust
ments of the die head whereby, with different
longitudinal adjustments of the die head, the
may be applied to other phases of garment mak
ing than the Vattachment of neck bands.
We claim:
1. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on
the collar edge of a fabric neck band, compris
ing a platen, a co~acting die head having lon
gitudinally adjustable portions adapted for dif
ferent lengths of bands, short marginal male
embossing die members carried by the die head
and disposed at fixed distances inwardly from
the ends thereof, a plurality of longitudinally
spaced female embossing die members formed in
the platen for cooperating with the first-men
tioned die members for embossing, in the collar
edge of the band, short marginal guide marks
der seams of the body are to come, the male em
embostures formed on the body side of the band 45
remain ai; fixed distances apart while the em
bostures formed on .the collar side of the band
vary in their distance apart but remain con
stant in their distance in from the adjacent end
of the band.
50'
4. A fabric folding and marking machine
comprising a shaping die, means cooperating
therewith for folding a fabric section over said
die, and means associated with said die for mark
ing the fabric section at predetermined points 55
relative to the folds formed therein, said shap
ing die having shiftable sections for varying the
dimensions of the shaped folded fabric section,
and said marking means being shiftable for ob
60 at the points where the ends of the collar are to
taining a predetermined relation between the 60
erating with different embossing die members in
tions for all adjustments of the shaping die.
5. A collar band folding and marking ma
chine comprising a bed plate, a shaping die,
means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric 65
come, the male embossing die members coop
the platen for different longitudinal adjustments
of the die head.
2. An apparatus for embossing guide marks
(i5
on the collar edge and on the body edge of a
fabric neck band, comprising a platen, a co-act
ing die head having longitudinally adjustable
portions adapted for different lengths of bands,
TU male embossing die members carried by the die
head and disposed at fixed distancesl inwardly
from the ends thereof, a plurality of longitudi
nally spaced female embossing die members
formed in the platen for cooperating with the
75 first-mentioned die members for embossing, in
marking means and the folds in the fabric sec-- i
section over said die to form a shaped collar
band, means associated with said die and bed
plate for marking the shaped collar band at pre
determined points relative to the ends and cen
ter thereof, said shaping die having shiftable 70
sections for varying the length of the collar
band, and said marking means being shiftable
for obtaining a predetermined relation between
the marking means and the fold in the fabric
sections for all adjustments of the shaping die. 75
4
2,122,303
6. A collar band folding and marking machine
jacent the periphery thereof, to assist registra
comprising a bed plate, a shaping die, means co
tion in subsequent stitching thereof to a garment
operating therewith for folding a fabric section
or like article, the combination with a blank sup
porting bed formed with a series of recesses‘, a
over said die to form a shaped collar band, said
Ul shaping die having shiftable end sections for
varying the length of the collar band, each end
blank defining templet having an underneath
projection or boss at each location to be marked,
section having a projecting lug on its under. face
at a fixed predetermined position from the end
and means for infolding the blank edge or edges
while resting on the bed and deñned by the tem
of the section, and said bed plate having a series
plet, whereby the blank is infolded and impressed
with location marks at the required peripheral
points; the templet being lengthwise adjustable
for size and the projection being thereby adjust
10 of recesses at each end of the shaping die a unit
distance apart, one of which recesses has a pro
jecting lug on the end section associated there
with for creasing the fabric a predetermined dis
tance from the ends of the collar band for all ad
15 justments of the die.
7. A fabric folding and marking machine com
prising a shaping die, means cooperating there
with for folding a fabric section over said die,
means associated with said die for marking the
20 fabric section at a plurality of predetermined
points relative to the folds formed therein, said
shaping die being adjustable for folding fabric
sections of different sizes, and said marking
means being shiftable for obtaining a predeter
25 mined relation between the marking means and
the folds in the fabric sections for all adjustments
of the shaping die.
8. In a machine for infolding blanks for collars
and the like and impressing location marks ad
30 jacent the periphery thereof, to assist registra
tion in subsequent stitching thereof to a garment
or like article, the combination with a blank sup
porting bed, having a recess or groove beneath
each location to be marked, a blank defining tem
plet having an underneath projection or boss
at each location to be marked, and means for in
folding the blank edge or edges while resting on
the bed and defined by the templet, whereby the
blank is enfolded and impressed with location
marks at the required peripheral points; the tem
plet being lengthwise adjustable for size and
the projection being thereby adjustable in loca
tion for each adjustment for size, and the bed
being adapted to present a recess opposite each
such location of the projection.
9. In a machine for infolding blanks for collars
and the like and impressing location marks ad
able in location for each adjustment for size, and
the bed being adapted to present a recess oppo
site each such location of the projection.
15
10. A machine for infolding the edges 0f a col
lar band and impressing temporary location marks
adjacent both sides of the periphery thereof, to
assist subsequent registration with and stitching
both to a shirt and to a collar top, comprising in 20
combination, a blank supporting bed, a blank de
ñning member fitted to descend upon a blank
upon the bed and to retract upwardly, and in
folding members ñtted to move inwardly for in
folding the opposite blank edges while resting on 25
the supporting bed and defined by the defining
member, and to retract outwardly; one of said
members and the bed having at each side margin
of the blank a pair of complementary impression
elements, namely a short projection and an op 30
posing recess, one pair impressing the band at
a position for registration with a shirt body and
another pair impressing the band at the'opposite
side for registration with a collar top, whereby
with a single operation of the deñning member 35
and infolding member the blank is defined, in
folded and impressed with marginal registration
marks at the required peripheral points at both
sides of the collar band blank, the blank deñning
member having means for adjusting its dimen 40
sions, and the supporting bed being adapted to
present an impression element in position for
each adjusted position of the opposing impres
sion element.
EARL V. TOLEN.
CHARLES B. HARBSTREIT.
45
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