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Патент USA US2122737

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July 5, 1938.
1". J. CUTH‘BERT
2,122,731
INSEAM TRIMMING DEVICE
Filed March 6, 1935
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INV'ENTOR
M/ 4éw%r
A
RNEY
,
Patented July 5, 1938
2,122,737
" UNITED STATES
PATENT OFFICE
2,122,737
7 »
INSEAM TRIMMING DEVICE
Thomas J. Cuthbert, South Weymouth, Mass,
assignor to Compo Shoe Machinery Corpora
tion, New York, N. Y., a corporation of Dela
ware
Application March 6, 1935, Serial No. 9,576
4 Claims.
This invention relates generally to trimming
operations employed in the manufacture of
shoes, and more particularly to trimming adja
cent the inseam of‘ a welted upper.
5
General objects of the invention are to provide
an improved method and apparatus for closely
trimming adjacent the inseam of a welted upper.
More particularly, objects of the invention are
to provide an improved method and apparatus
lo‘for reducing the height of the surplus lasting
material located closely beyond the inseam
stitching of a welted upper, with consequent im
provements in the quality of the shoe such as a
smoother and closer ?t between the outsole and
[6‘ upper, material reduction in the amount of ?ller
material used between the outsole and upper, and
increased flexibility due to closer trimming of
the surplus materials adjacent the inseam.
_
A further object of the invention is to provide
30: a method for closely trimming the lasting ma
terial beyond the inseam of a welted upper, which
leaves these materials in a roughened condition
that renders them well suited for subsequent
permanent cement attachment to an outsole.
55
Other objects of the invention will in part be
obvious and will in part appear hereinafter.
The invention accordingly comprises the sev
eral steps and the relation of one or more of
such steps with respect to each of the others,
I0 and the apparatus embodying features of con
struction, combinations of elements and arrange
ment of parts which are adapted to e?ect such
steps, all as exempli?ed in the following detailed
disclosure, and the scope of‘ the invention will be
l5 indicated in the claims.
For a fuller understanding of the nature and
objects of the invention reference should be had
to the following detailed description taken in
connection with the accompanying drawing, in
.0 which:
Fig. 1 is a bottom view of a welted shoe upper
prior to the application thereto of the inseam
trimming methods embodying the principles of
the present invention;
.5‘v
a
‘
Fig. 2 is a transverse vertical sectional view
taken along line 2-2 of Fig. 1 but showing a
conventional inseam trimming operation at the
right side thereof;
Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical sectional view
0 showing, at the right side thereof, a further in
seam trimming operation, in accordance with the
principles of the present invention, and showing
a cement attached outsole at the left side of the
illustration ;
5? Fig. 4 is a side elevation of an inseam trim
(Cl. 12-82)
ming rasp embodying principles of the present
invention; and
Fig. 5 is an edge elevation taken along line
5-5 of Fig. 4, part thereof being shown in sec
tion.
In accordance with the present invention, a
welted shoe may be formed by providing a welted
upper of any conventional or desired form, as
for example, a Goodyear welted shoe, then trim
ming the inseam of such shoe by conventional 10
apparatus heretofore in use, and after such con
ventional trimming, effecting a further reduc
tion in the height of the surplus lasting mate
rials above the inseam by means of the method
and equipment about to be described. There 15
after, a requisite amount of ?ller may be ap
plied to the shoe bottom and an outsole attached
to the welt by means of cement or stitching.
Referring more particularly to the drawing,
there is shown in Figs. 1 and 2 a conventional 20
welted shoe upper of the Goodyear type, com
prising an insole l0 channeled as at H to pro
vide a channel leaf which is upturned to form the
inner half of an insole lip or rib 12 to which an
upper I3 is temporarily lasted by means of
staples M which may be inserted by a Goodyear
stapling machine. Preferably, though not neces
sarily, the insole is provided with a reinforcing
layer l5 of canvas or other fabric which is ad
hesively attached to the bottom of the insole and 30
to the side of the lip l2 prior to the lasting
operation, as is well understood in the art.
A welt I6 is attached to the upper and insole
lip by means of inseam stitching H. In making
this seam, a 4, 5 or 6 cord linen thread is used 35
instead of the 7, 8 or 10 cord cotton thread which
has customarily been used for welt shoes of Good
year stitch construction.
The inseam stitching
is located as close to the insole as possible, being
located well down in the bottom of the insole 40
channel II and in a groove l8 with which the
welt is preferably provided.
The upper, thus lasted, is then subjected to an
insole trimming operation which removes the
bulk of the surplus lasting materials located be 45
yond the inseam. This may be done by means
of any of the conventional machines used for
this purpose such as those employing a rotary
cutter, a knife or toothed band. At the right
side of Fig. 2 such surplus lasting materials are 50
shown as having just been trimmed by a rotary
knife IS. The use of such conventional trim
mers, even under the best conditions heretofore
applicable, leaves an appreciable residue 20 of
lasting materials beyond the inseam.
55
2'.
2,122,737
After the surplus lasting materials have thus
been trimmed entirely around the inseam, the
height of the material located closely above the
inseam at 20 is further reduced by subjecting it
to the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 3, 4 and 5.
This comprises a heavy metal disk 2| having its
periphery convexly curved along a plane passing
through the axis of the disk-as indicated at 22.
A plurality of integral picking teeth 23 are struck
up from the material at the disk, and these are
separated into- spaced groups by peripheral
notches 24. Highly satisfactory trimming re
sults are obtained by making such disk with a 4
inch outside diameter and a ‘7/8 inch thickness
15 from solid tool steel. The picking teeth are
rather well spaced, adjacent teeth being spaced
laterally about 3% of an inch and circumferen
tially about 1/4 of an inch.
'20 periphery, each notch having a width along the
circumference of the disk of about % of an inch.
A proper peripheral speed for trimming the sur
plus materials at the inseam of men’s: shoes is
obtained by operating the particularly described
disk at a speed of- around 2600 R. P. M.
In view
of the solidity and weight of the disk, it has
considerable momentum at operating speed, and
the picking teeth 23 are capable of rasping the
surplus lasting materials at the inseam to shreds,
;' tearing some of this material completely away
and beating or pounding the rest of it over to
ward the center of the shoe bottom and into the
channel H as shown at theright side of Fig. 3,
the rasp being operated transversely across the
inseam in a direction toward the interior of the
shoe.
The separation of the teeth into spaced
groups has been found to effect the rasping and
beating action in a highly desirable manner, and
it'may be that the advancing edges 23’ of the
401 notches contribute somewhat to the beating
action. The complete rasp action is unlike a
conventional inseam pounding in that the sur
plus materials are actually shredded and torn
off as well as beaten over, and the operator can
obtain a much closer trim at the inseam than has
heretofore been possible.
After subjecting the entire inseam portion of
the shoe to this last described trimming and
beating action, a suitable ?ller 25 is applied to
50 the bottom of the shoe within the inseam rib.
The amount of ?ller material needed is material
ly lessened because of the reduced height of the
inseam rib, and with a somewhat round bottomed
last the central forepart portion of the insole
55. will engage directly against the outsole 26 as
indicated at 21. This is of considerable advan
tage in that it prevents shifting or lumping of
the ?ller during wear of the shoe. The outsole
26 is adapted to be fastened to the upper, pref
60 erably by meansof cement 28, and the contact
ing faces of the outsole and welt may be suitably
roughed to facilitate this cement union. The
described inseam trimming operation involving
use of the rasp 2| leaves the materials above
65 the inseam in a flat roughened condition which
renders them well suited for cement attachment
to the adjacent portion of the outsole. While
the present method of inseam trimming thus is
particularly advantageous when the outsole is
permanently cement attached, certain bene?ts
thereof are also obtained when the outsole is
stitched to the welt in the conventional manner,
and the present invention is intended to be ap
plicable to the manufacture of shoes of this type
75 .
as well as to cemented shoes.
I
entire trimming operation may be accomplished
by means of this last named means alone; How
ever, at the present time the use of a conven
tional trimming operation for removing the bulk 10
of the lasting materials beyond the inseam is
preferred, the particular advantage of the pres
ent invention ‘being in its ability to provide a
closer trim inwardly from the point where con
ventional trimming machines heretofore have 15'
left off.
The use of a relatively ?ne strong thread at
Six notches 24 are ' inseam~ I‘! also facilitates the operation of the
preferably provided at equal distances around the
‘
Although the inseam trimming operation has
been described as occurring in two steps, the ?rst
comprising the conventional knife or toothed
band trimming heretofore in use, and the second
the rasping and beating trimming herein dis
closed, it will be obvious that, if desired, the
rasp _2l, permitting it to be applied with less
danger of catching and, tearing the insteam 20
threads. Because of the increased removal of the
upstanding lasting materials beyond the inseam,
the shoe is more ?exible, and the outsole is close
ly and snugly ?tted thereto with much less ?ller
material located between it and the insole.
While a conventional welt type of Goodyear
stitched shoe has herein been illustratively de
scribed as being operated on in accordance with
25
the present invention, it will be apparent that
the advantages of such invention are generally
applicable wherever a close trim in the vicinity
393::
of the welt seam is desired, regardless of the
particular method of constructing: the welted
upper.
It will be apparentthat there have been pro- '
vided a method and apparatus which are well
suited to ful?l their functions.
-
Since certain changes in carrying out the above
method and in the constructions set forth, which
embody the invention may be made without de
parting from its scope, it is intended that all mat
ter contained in the above description or shown
in the-accompanying drawing shall be interpreted
as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.
It is also to be understood that the following
claims are intended to cover all of the generic
and speci?c features of the invention herein de
scribed, and all statements of the scope of the
invention which, as a matter of language, might
be said to fall therebetween.
50?
Having described my invention, what I claim as
new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:
1. A device for trimming surplus material be
yond the inseam of a welted shoe with a picking
and beating action, comprising a rotatable heavy as,
solid metallic disk shaped body having flat sides
and a periphery‘ convexly curve-d along a plane
passing through the axis of the disk body with
the greatest diameter of said- disk body positioned
in a plane between said flat sides, picking'teeth
extending from said periphery, said disk having a
series of transverse peripheral notches extending
from side to side thereof and separating its pe
riphery into spaced picking and beating sections,
and means for rotating said disk with ‘sufficient
momentum to pick and beat said surplus material.
2. A device for trimming surplus material be
yond the inseam of a welted shoe with a picking
and beating action, comprising a rotatable heavy
metallic disk shaped body having ?at sides and a 70
periphery convexly curved along a. plane passing
through the axis of said body, said disk having a
series of transverse peripheral notches extend
ing from side to side thereof and separating its
margin into a series of picking ‘and beating sec 75
2,122,737
tions, picking teeth extending from each of said
sections, and means for imparting su?‘icient mo
mentum to said! disk to pick and beat said sur
plus material.
'
3. A device for trimming surplus plies of ma
terials beyond the inseam of a welted shoe with a
picking and beating action, comprising a rotatable
heavy metallic disk shaped body having a periph
ery convexly curved along a plane passing
10 through the axis of the disk shaped body with
the greatest diameter of said body positioned in
a plane between its lateral sides, said body hav"
ing a series of transverse peripheral notches each
of materially greater width than the normal
15 combined width of the inseam materials to be
trimmed, said notches extending from side to
side of said body and separating its periphery
into a series of picking and beating sections,
and spaced picking teeth struck up from each of
20 said sections.
3
4. A device for trimming surplus plies of ma
terials beyond the inseam of a weltedv shoe with
a picking and beating action, comprising a ro
tatable heavy metallic disk shaped body having
its periphery convexly curved along a plane pass
ing through the axis of the disk shaped body, said
body having a series of transverse notches spaced
about its periphery, each notch being of mate
rially greater Width than the normal combined
width of the plies of inseam materials to be
trimmed, said notches extending from side to
side of said body and separating its periphery
into a series of picking and beating sections each
having a beating corner at its forward edge de
?ned by one of said notches and extending 15
substantially parallel with the axis of said body,
and a plurality of spaced picking teeth extending
from each of said sections.
THOMAS J. CUTHBERT.
20
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