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Патент USA US2124653

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July 26, 1938.
l
F. w. DREW ’ ART oF
sHoEMAKING
F11-ed Dec. s, 193s
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’
2,124,653
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2 sheets-sheet
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1
July 26, 193s.
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_ F_ w, DREW
ART OF SHOEMAKING
Filed Dec.ï s, 195e
2,124,653
.
2 shéets-sheet `2:
Patented July 26, 1938
> 2,124,653
UNITED STATES2,124,653lPATENT
'
OFFICE
ART oF LsHoEMAKING l
Frederick .Wallace Drew, Portsmouth, Ohio, as
signorv to' United Shoe Machinery Corporation,
Paterson, .N. J., acorporation of New_Jersey
- Application DecemberïS, 1936, Serial No. 114,036
2 Claims.,-r (Cl. 12-142)
cut-out piece has been sewed in place and the
This invention relates to a method‘of making
shoes and to an insole which is employed in prac
ticing the method.
In the manufacture of one type of shoe the
5 bottom of the forepart of which is flexible, it
channel flaps have been raised to form a rib;
Fig. 8 is a transverse section of Fig. 7;
Fig. 9 is a transverse section like Fig. 8 but
showing in additiona reenforcement of sheet 5
material cemented to the insole;
Fig. 10 is a detail showing the lasting of the
upper and the fastening of it to the rib of the
has been customary to provide a skeletonized in
sole having an opening in its forepart into which
a projection on the outsole extends, and one ob
ject of the present invention is to improve the
10 method of manufacturing such a shoe. Not only
is it difficult to attach a skeleton insole firmly
to the bottom of a last but, when this insole is
cated shoe after the inseam has been trimmed
and the cut-out piece removed;
subjected to strains as it is, for example during
the lasting of the upper, it is liable to be
15 stretched or distorted, with the result that the
desired shape of the finished shoe is not at
tained.
According to the present invention, a piece is
out out of the insole to produce an opening hav
20 ing a beveled edge in its forepart in which the
projection on the outsole may later be received,
and then the cut-out piece is fastened firmly but
projection on its forepart;
Fig. 13 is a transverse section through the fore
part of the outsole;
Fig. 14 is a transverse section through the fore
part of a finished shoe; and
Fig. 15 is a view partially in transverse section
and partially in perspective showing the interior 20
of the toe portion of a finished shoe.
In carrying out the method, an insole (Fig. l)
detachably in place with the beveled edge of the
piece in contact with the beveled edge of the
25 opening. This insole, which is practically as
is channeled, for example by making the two
cuts 2|, 23 commonly employed which produce
two thin flaps. A piece l I9 is cut out of the fore
strong as before the opening in it was made, is
assembled together with an upper upon a last, and
the manufacture of the shoe is carried out in
any desired manner until the partly fabricated
30 shoe reaches the stage where the outsole is to be
part of the insole to provide an opening to re
ceive the projection |25 (Fig. 12) on the outsole
25. This projection may be formed in any suit
able manner and preferably has a beveled edge
225. Returning to Figs. 2 to 10, a satisfactory 30
mode of cutting out a piece from the insole is
by distorting the forepart of the insole and feed
ing it to a knife 28 by means of rolls 21, 29
having respectively a matrix 3l and a patrix 33,
these members being properly shaped and ar
attached, whereupon the cut-out piece is re-'
moved from the opening in the insole, and the
outsole is fastened in place with its projection
extending into the opening. Althoughthepresent
35 invention is applicable to the manufacture of vari
’ous kinds of shoes having skeletonized insoles, it
is particularly well adapted to the manufacture
of a Goodyear welt shoe.
Referring to the accompanying drawings:
40
Fig. l is a perspective of a channeled insole;
Fig. 2 is a transverse section of this insole;
Fig. 3 is a detail in end elevation of a portion
of a machine for distorting the insole and cutting
the piece out of the forepart, an insole being
shown in process of being operated upon;
Fig. 4 is a detail in front elevation of a por
tion of the same machine and insole, the cut of
the knife being indicated by a dot-and-dash line;
50
Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the insole show
ing the bevel edge of the cut~out piece and that
of the opening;
Fig. 6 is a perspective of the insole after the
cut-out piece has been severed therefrom;
55
Fig. 7 is a perspective of the insole after the
insole by a staple lasting machine;
Fig. 11 is a transverse section of a partly fabri
Fig. 12 is a perspective of an outsole having a
ranged to cooperate with each other so as prefer
ably to provide a beveled edge opening into which
the projection 125 on the outsole will fit. The
cut-out piece IIS is now detachably fastened in
place in the opening so that, at the proper time,
it may readily be removed. As illustrated, the
piece is sewed in place by chain stitches 35 which
pass through the beveled edges of the cut-out
piece and of the opening and which may readily
be pulled out. The channel flaps are now raised
and stuck.together in the usual manner to form
a rib 31, the completed insole having the appear
ance shown in Fig. '7. It will be noted that the
bevel cut by which the piece H9 was cut out is
inclined downward and inward from the sole 50
attaching face of the insole so that later this
piece may readily be removed from that face.
The completed insole is assembled together
With an upper, which ordinarily comprises an
outer layer 39 and a lining 4I, upon a last 43 and 55
2,124,653
is lasted in any desired manner and fastened to
the insole. As illustrated in Fig. 10, this may be
accomplished by means of a suitable lasting ma
chine which drives staples 45 through the upper
into the rib 31. The welt 41 (Fig. 11) is attached
by a Welt sewing machine which inserts the
stitches 49, and the inseam is trimmed. At this
stage, the chain stitch 35 (Fig. 7) which holds the
cut-out piece H9 in place is pulled out and the
10 piece is removed, the shoe now having the ap
pearance shown in Fig. 11. The outsole 25 is
located on the bottom of the shoe with its pro
jection |25 extending into the opening in the in
sole, with the beveled edge of the projection
15 against the beveled edge of the opening, and is
pressed ñrmly into place bythe usual sole-attach
ing machine, after which the sole is fastened to
the welt by stitches 5l and the sole is leveled. ~
Referring now to Fig. 9, the insole of Fig. 8
20 may be reenforced if desired by a properly shaped
piece of sheet material 53, such as canvas or
leather, which is cemented to one face of the in
sole I9 and to the inner face of the rib 31 over
the cut-out piece l I9; and in this- case it will be
25 necessary to cut this reenforcement to permit re
moving the cut-out piece. If desired the point of
a knife may be forced through the reenforcement
and into the cut between the cut-out piece and
the rest of the insole, and then the knife may be
30 manipulated to sever the stitches 36 and at the
same time cut a piece out of the reenforcement.
Although the invention has been set forth as
applied to the manufacture of a welt shoe in
which the sole is attached to the welt by stitches,
35 it should be understood that the invention is not
limited in the scope of its application to use in the
manufacture of such a shoe. And valthough the
illustrated method has been described as com
prising a series of steps performed in a particular
order, it should be understood that the order of
the steps may in some cases be varied.
Having thus described my invention, what I
claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Pat
ent of the United States is:
1. The method of making a shoe which com
prises providing an outsole with a beveled pro
jection on its forepart, cutting a piece out of the
forepart of an insole to produce an opening hav~
ing a beveled edge in which the projection on the
outsole may later be received, detachably fasten
ing the cut-out piece in place in the opening by
means of stitches extending substantially par
allel to the edge of the opening in the insole and
capable of being readily pulled out, and employ 15
ing the insole and outsole in the manufacture of
a shoe including removing the cut-out piece and
fastening the outsole in place with its projection
extending into the opening and the beveled edge
of the projection in contact with the beveled edge
of the opening.
2. The method of making a shoe which com
prises providing an outsole with a projection on
its forepart, channeling an insole, cutting a bev
eled edge piece out of the fcrepart of the insole to 25
form an opening to receive the projection on the
outsole, detachably fastening the cut-out piece
in the opening by stitches which pass through the k
beveled edge of the cut-out piece and that of the
opening, raising the channel flaps to form a rib, 30
attaching a reenforcing fabric to the insole over
the cut-out piece and employing the insole and
outsole in the manufacture of a shoe including
cutting out a portion of the reenforcing fabric,
severing the stitches, removing the cut-out piece 35
and the cut-out portion and fastening the out
sole in place with its projection extending into
the opening.
FREDERICK WALLACE DREW.
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