Патент USA US2126276код для вставки
Aug. 9’ 2,1 26,276 w. M. PAGE SHOEMAKING Filed May 22, 1936 11710827323?’ “91am 7% ?ier“ )“Ml/ZZW. _ awarwgya - Patented Aug. 9, 1938 ' ‘ _. 2,125,276 / TENT" Omar. \ UNITED ; STATES . 2,126,276 SHOE i ING William M. Page, Marblehead- Mass. _ Application May 22, 1936, Serial No. 81,221 i 4 Flat, 7 This inventionrelates to the manufacture of shoes. It consists in an improved process of making ?exible, single ' sole shoes of superior quality from the shoe-making standpoint to those 5" heretofore known and is characterized by certain advantages in economy as well as case and em although it has a particular field of useiin the in manufacture of slippers, and for illustrative pur poses it will be disclosed'in detail in that. appli cation. ‘ ~ I - , v , _ Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view- showing the heel a with the stiffening , blank . assembled therein, . Fig. 4 is a view in cross section of the assembled heel pocket on the ‘line i—t 01' Fig. 3, for purposes of illustration, the counter portion comprises‘ a heel pocket which may be given its . I Fig. '5 isa view in perspective, illustrative of 10 the heel seat lasting step, i The invention consists in a novel process of forming the counter portions of shoes without a 15 back seam. In the type of shoe herein selected ‘ ‘ ‘ Fig. 6 is a view in perspective, showing the lasted heel pocket in position upon alasted shoe, and ‘ - , t Fig. 7 is a view in side elevation of the com- 15 pleted shoe. ‘ V ' The heel pocket is prepared by first'stitching . ?nished shape independently of the forepart of ' together'a lining blank it and adeather or outer the upper, either ‘by molding upon the heel end As herein shown the heel pocket comprises an outer blank it while the two blanks are superposed. inside out, in flat condition. Both the blanks it ' 20 of a last or upon a suitably shaped mold. - seamless portion and a lining portion andv these 2 Fig. 2 is a plan view of the counter stiffening blank, pocket ciency in practice. Theinvention is of general application to ‘the broad ?eld of shoe'making, ‘ Fig. l is ‘a plan view of a heeLpocket, stitched . and in ?at condition before it is turned, are united in superposed. relation and are adapted to receive in interleaved relation'a blank of stiffening material capable of being temporarily and ii are integral seamless‘ pieces, complete in themselves and having no back seam. The line‘ of marginal stitching it extends about the upper and side edges of the blank which, as shown, are cut in a continuous curved'contour. The heel 25 softened and of ‘being then transformed into a stiff resilient condition by drying or cooling. The present invention contemplates the insertion of pocket in this early stage. of its preparation is shown in Fig. 1, and it will be understood that operation or its equivalent, and then the drying of the molded parts thus converting them perma fold vertex is formed entirely in the material of the outer blank ii and the line of juncture is both the lining and outer blanks are now inside such a stiffening blank into a heel pocket or ' out. The stitched heel pocket is now turned right 30 counter portion of a shoe, the molding or shaping side out, bringing the lining in to the inside and 30 of the entire margin of the assembled heel pocket ' concealing the stitch line by the rolled edge of upon a last or form, as by a heel seat lasting the leather or outer blank, that is to say, the 35 nently into a stiff resilient shape conforming ac brought down below the upper rolled edge. curately to the fine lines-of the last which are desired in the ?nished‘ shoe. I l 35 , stidening blank it from material which may be ' A characteristic of a heel pocket or‘ counter 4 _ The next step of the process is to prepare a. portion manufactured in accordance with the present invention preferably is that the line of juncture between the lining and’ the 'outer part is brought inside the heel pocket, that is, the fold vertex is formed entirely in the outer portion thereof, and that the upper edge of the stidening 45 blank extends above this line of juncture, or fully into the fold vertex. By this procedure an at tractive rolled edge effect is imparted to the heel temporarily mulled or softened as will presently be explained.‘ For thispurpose a celanese textile fabric impregnated with a pyroxylin compound 40 may be'employed, and this may be softened by a suitable organic solvent, or ,"cold water box” ma terial which is capableof being softened by water . may be employed. Thermoplastic sheetmaterial is also suitable forpurposes of the present inven- 45 tion. . A blank of ‘some such material is shown in Fig. 2 of the drawing. It is assembled in the heel pocket and its entire body is maintained reliably ~ vpocket by being slipped between the outer and inthe molded shape imparted to it. » 50 - These and other features and characteristics ‘of the invention will be best understood and ap- \ preciated' from the following description vof a lining portions so that its’ upper edge is carried ‘clear to the fold‘vertex, that-is to say, the stiffen 010 ing blank extends continuously past the lineof juncture between‘ the lining and the outer portion, ' preferred manner in which it may be carried out, _ of the heel'pocket asbest' shown in Fig. 4. ‘The selected for purposes of illustration and shown inv . stiffening blank it may, it‘ desired, be secured in‘ 55 theaccompanying drawing in-which this position by a band of cement‘ i4,_previously 55 2,126,276 2 applied to the upper margin of the outer blank I I as suggested in 3, but under many circum stances it is not necessary so to cement the stiff ening blank, since the operation of assembling the heel pocket upon the last has the e?ect of securely anchoring the stiffening blank in place. Having prepared the heel pocket and provided it with its interleaved stiffening blank, the last ing operation. may now be carried out. For this 10 purpose the heel pocket is temporarily opened be carried out independently of the shoe and subsequently the molded heel pocket may be in-‘ corporated into the shoe. Such procedure is par ticularly useful in the manufacture of slippers, whereas it would not apply to the manufacture of ,women’s pumps or oxfords. . ‘ The invention has been discussed in its appli cation to the manufacture of slippers for pur poses of illustration only. It may be usefully ap plied in the manufacture of women’s shoes in and softening liquid applied to the stiffening general, both in sandals and in shoes where a blank or, if a thermoplastic material is used, the stiifening blank is heated to a softened condition. Whatever softening step may be employed, the assembled heel pocket is next positioned upon the heel end of the last I‘ and secured symmetrically thereon by means of a single tack I 5, driven into the heel end of the last. The forepart of the upper, together with the shank piece'20, has al ready been applied to the last and the margin of the heel pocket extends upwardly about the rear ‘seamless counter portion is desired. end of the last and shank piece. ' The next step in the manufacture of the shoe consists in drawing the forward ends of the heel pocket inwardly by hand over the last bottom and securing them in place by tacks H. In the same 'way the rear end of the upstanding margin is pulled inwardly and secured by a single tack It. It will be understood that the material of the stiffener is soft and pliable during these steps and o?fers no resistance to, the overworking of the margin of the pocket. ' The step of drying and transforming the stiff ening blank from its mulled, pliable and adhesive condition to the stiff resilient condition required in the ?nished shoe may be carried out at room temperature or with the assistance of arti?cial heat. The latter is usually preferable'both from the standpoint of economy of time and because a higher rate of drying usually imparts a greater degree of stiffness to the stiffening material. Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Pat ent of the United States is: 1. A process of shoemaking which includes the ‘ steps of preparing, independently of the shoe, 2. lined heel pocket having a rolled upper vedge with the line of juncture between the lining and outer portion located entirely within the heel pocket, inserting a stiffening piece which extends ' upwardly above said line of juncture in the heel ' pocket, lasting the heel pocket with the stiffener Having prepared the shoe as indicated in Fig. 5, it is presented to a heel seat lasting machine, the wipers of which are represented in Fig. 5. When the shoe has been properly located in the ' heel band of this machine the wipers are advanced simultaneously, the entire upstanding margin of the heel pocket is wiped into place and while so held imder pressure the heel seat lasting tacks l9 are simultaneously driven, thus conforming the heel pocket accurately and tightly to the, heel end of the last and in this process molding the stiffening material into the desired shape. In the step of subjecting the miperposed margin of the outer and liningportions to pressure with the mulled stiffening blank between them the margins of all three plies are cemented or fused together in a single inturned ?ange. The heel piece therein to form an inturned heel seat ?ange, and then drying to stiffen the heel pocket in the shape of the last. ' 2. A process of shoemaking which includes the steps of preparing, independently of the shoe, a lined heel pocket having its upper and side edges shaped in a continuous curved contour with a rolled edge formed in the outer portion, locat 40 ing a mulled stiffening piece in the heel pocket with its edge in substantial contact with the vertex of the rolled edge and above the line of juncture between the lining and outer portions, working the free edges of the plies of the heel pocket over the last bottom, and drying to form a stiff integral ?ange of the fused material. 3. A molded heel pocket for a slipper, compris ‘ing an outer portion having an upper rolled edge, pocket is then allowed to dry upon the last, ' a lining portion having its line of juncture with whereupon the stiffener is- transformed into a the outer portion located below the rolled edge and stiff condition but now in such molded shape as in the inner surface of the heel pocket, and a to impart to the shoe permanently the lines of the last. At‘ the completion of the drying opera stiffening piece which extends upwardly above tion, the shoe, including the heel pocket, may be safely removed from the last without danger of being misshapened or distorted. ' It will be noted that by the steps explained said line of juncture and into contact with the rolled edge of the outer portion. 4. A process of shoemaking which includes the steps of stitching the outer and lining portions oi.’ a heel pocket along their upper edges, turning the heel pocket is not only molded permanently said portions to form a rolled upper edge and GO intothe?nalshapedesiredintheshoe but it is 'locate the stitch line in the inner faceof the heel GU at the same time incorporated into the structurev pocket, inserting a temporarily softened stiffening of the shoe. It is contemplated, however, that strip between said portions, and then molding the in some cases, it may be advantageous to as‘ free margin of the portions into an integral in ' v semble the heel pocket and mold or shape it upon turned ?ange. a form which is the counterpart of the last, that vis, the operation of shaping the heel pocket may ~ WILLIAM M. PAGE.