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Патент USA US2126276

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Aug. 9’
2,1 26,276
w. M. PAGE
Filed May 22, 1936
_ awarwgya
Patented Aug. 9, 1938 '
_. 2,125,276
TENT" Omar.
. 2,126,276
William M. Page, Marblehead- Mass. _
Application May 22, 1936, Serial No. 81,221 i
4 Flat, 7
This inventionrelates to the manufacture of
shoes. It consists in an improved process of
making ?exible, single ' sole shoes of superior
quality from the shoe-making standpoint to those
5" heretofore known and is characterized by certain
advantages in economy as well as case and em
although it has a particular field of useiin the
in manufacture of slippers, and for illustrative pur
poses it will be disclosed'in detail in that. appli
_ Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view- showing the heel a
stiffening , blank . assembled
Fig. 4 is a view in cross section of the assembled
heel pocket on the ‘line i—t 01' Fig. 3,
for purposes of illustration, the counter portion
comprises‘ a heel pocket which may be given its
Fig. '5 isa view in perspective, illustrative of 10
the heel seat lasting step,
The invention consists in a novel process of
forming the counter portions of shoes without a
15 back seam. In the type of shoe herein selected
Fig. 6 is a view in perspective, showing the
lasted heel pocket in position upon alasted shoe,
Fig. 7 is a view in side elevation of the com- 15
pleted shoe.
V '
The heel pocket is prepared by first'stitching .
?nished shape independently of the forepart of '
together'a lining blank it and adeather or outer
the upper, either ‘by molding upon the heel end
herein shown the heel pocket comprises an outer
blank it while the two blanks are superposed.
inside out, in flat condition. Both the blanks it '
20 of a last or upon a suitably shaped mold.
- seamless portion and a lining portion andv these
Fig. 2 is a plan view of the counter stiffening
ciency in practice. Theinvention is of general
application to ‘the broad ?eld of shoe'making,
Fig. l is ‘a plan view of a heeLpocket, stitched .
and in ?at condition before it is turned,
are united in superposed. relation and are adapted
to receive in interleaved relation'a blank of
stiffening material capable of being temporarily
and ii are integral seamless‘ pieces, complete in
themselves and having no back seam. The line‘
of marginal stitching it extends about the upper
and side edges of the blank which, as shown, are cut in a continuous curved'contour. The heel 25
softened and of ‘being then transformed into a
stiff resilient condition by drying or cooling. The
present invention contemplates the insertion of
pocket in this early stage. of its preparation is
shown in Fig. 1, and it will be understood that
operation or its equivalent, and then the drying
of the molded parts thus converting them perma
fold vertex is formed entirely in the material of
the outer blank ii and the line of juncture is
both the lining and outer blanks are now inside
such a stiffening blank into a heel pocket or ' out. The stitched heel pocket is now turned right
30 counter portion of a shoe, the molding or shaping
side out, bringing the lining in to the inside and 30
of the entire margin of the assembled heel pocket ' concealing the stitch line by the rolled edge of
upon a last or form, as by a heel seat lasting the leather or outer blank, that is to say, the
35 nently into a stiff resilient shape conforming ac
brought down below the upper rolled edge.
curately to the fine lines-of the last which are
desired in the ?nished‘ shoe.
, stidening blank it from material which may be
A characteristic of a heel pocket or‘ counter
The next step of the process is to prepare a.
portion manufactured in accordance with the
present invention preferably is that the line of
juncture between the lining and’ the 'outer part
is brought inside the heel pocket, that is, the fold
vertex is formed entirely in the outer portion
thereof, and that the upper edge of the stidening
45 blank extends above this line of juncture, or fully
into the fold vertex. By this procedure an at
tractive rolled edge effect is imparted to the heel
temporarily mulled or softened as will presently
be explained.‘ For thispurpose a celanese textile
fabric impregnated with a pyroxylin compound 40
may be'employed, and this may be softened by a
suitable organic solvent, or ,"cold water box” ma
terial which is capableof being softened by water .
may be employed. Thermoplastic sheetmaterial
is also suitable forpurposes of the present inven- 45 tion. . A blank of ‘some such material is shown in
Fig. 2 of the drawing. It is assembled in the heel
pocket and its entire body is maintained reliably ~ vpocket by being slipped between the outer and
inthe molded shape imparted to it. »
These and other features and characteristics
‘of the invention will be best understood and ap- \
preciated' from the following description vof a
lining portions so that its’ upper edge is carried
‘clear to the fold‘vertex, that-is to say, the stiffen 010
ing blank extends continuously past the lineof
juncture between‘ the lining and the outer portion,
' preferred manner in which it may be carried out, _ of the heel'pocket asbest' shown in Fig. 4. ‘The
selected for purposes of illustration and shown inv . stiffening blank it may, it‘ desired, be secured in‘
55 theaccompanying drawing in-which
this position by a band of cement‘ i4,_previously 55
applied to the upper margin of the outer blank I I
as suggested in
3, but under many circum
stances it is not necessary so to cement the stiff
ening blank, since the operation of assembling
the heel pocket upon the last has the e?ect of
securely anchoring the stiffening blank in place.
Having prepared the heel pocket and provided
it with its interleaved stiffening blank, the last
ing operation. may now be carried out. For this
10 purpose the heel pocket is temporarily opened
be carried out independently of the shoe and
subsequently the molded heel pocket may be in-‘
corporated into the shoe. Such procedure is par
ticularly useful in the manufacture of slippers,
whereas it would not apply to the manufacture of
,women’s pumps or oxfords.
The invention has been discussed in its appli
cation to the manufacture of slippers for pur
poses of illustration only. It may be usefully ap
plied in the manufacture of women’s shoes in
and softening liquid applied to the stiffening
general, both in sandals and in shoes where a
blank or, if a thermoplastic material is used, the
stiifening blank is heated to a softened condition.
Whatever softening step may be employed, the
assembled heel pocket is next positioned upon the
heel end of the last I‘ and secured symmetrically
thereon by means of a single tack I 5, driven into
the heel end of the last. The forepart of the
upper, together with the shank piece'20, has al
ready been applied to the last and the margin of
the heel pocket extends upwardly about the rear
‘seamless counter portion is desired.
end of the last and shank piece.
The next step in the manufacture of the shoe
consists in drawing the forward ends of the heel
pocket inwardly by hand over the last bottom
and securing them in place by tacks H. In the
same 'way the rear end of the upstanding margin
is pulled inwardly and secured by a single tack
It. It will be understood that the material of
the stiffener is soft and pliable during these steps
and o?fers no resistance to, the overworking of the
margin of the pocket.
The step of drying and transforming the stiff
ening blank from its mulled, pliable and adhesive
condition to the stiff resilient condition required
in the ?nished shoe may be carried out at room
temperature or with the assistance of arti?cial
heat. The latter is usually preferable'both from
the standpoint of economy of time and because a
higher rate of drying usually imparts a greater
degree of stiffness to the stiffening material.
Having thus described my invention, what I
claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Pat
ent of the United States is:
1. A process of shoemaking which includes the ‘
steps of preparing, independently of the shoe,
2. lined heel pocket having a rolled upper vedge
with the line of juncture between the lining and
outer portion located entirely within the heel
pocket, inserting a stiffening piece which extends '
upwardly above said line of juncture in the heel '
pocket, lasting the heel pocket with the stiffener
Having prepared the shoe as indicated in Fig. 5,
it is presented to a heel seat lasting machine,
the wipers of which are represented in Fig. 5.
When the shoe has been properly located in the '
heel band of this machine the wipers are advanced
simultaneously, the entire upstanding margin of
the heel pocket is wiped into place and while so
held imder pressure the heel seat lasting tacks l9
are simultaneously driven, thus conforming the
heel pocket accurately and tightly to the, heel
end of the last and in this process molding the
stiffening material into the desired shape. In
the step of subjecting the miperposed margin of
the outer and liningportions to pressure with
the mulled stiffening blank between them the
margins of all three plies are cemented or fused
together in a single inturned ?ange. The heel
piece therein to form an inturned heel seat ?ange,
and then drying to stiffen the heel pocket in the
shape of the last.
2. A process of shoemaking which includes the
steps of preparing, independently of the shoe,
a lined heel pocket having its upper and side
edges shaped in a continuous curved contour with
a rolled edge formed in the outer portion, locat 40
ing a mulled stiffening piece in the heel pocket
with its edge in substantial contact with the
vertex of the rolled edge and above the line of
juncture between the lining and outer portions,
working the free edges of the plies of the heel
pocket over the last bottom, and drying to form
a stiff integral ?ange of the fused material.
3. A molded heel pocket for a slipper, compris
‘ing an outer portion having an upper rolled edge,
pocket is then allowed to dry upon the last, ' a lining portion having its line of juncture with
whereupon the stiffener is- transformed into a the outer portion located below the rolled edge and
stiff condition but now in such molded shape as
in the inner surface of the heel pocket, and a
to impart to the shoe permanently the lines of
the last. At‘ the completion of the drying opera
stiffening piece which extends upwardly above
tion, the shoe, including the heel pocket, may
be safely removed from the last without danger
of being misshapened or distorted.
It will be noted that by the steps explained
said line of juncture and into contact with the
rolled edge of the outer portion.
4. A process of shoemaking which includes the
steps of stitching the outer and lining portions oi.’
a heel pocket along their upper edges, turning
the heel pocket is not only molded permanently said portions to form a rolled upper edge and
GO intothe?nalshapedesiredintheshoe but it is 'locate the stitch line in the inner faceof the heel GU
at the same time incorporated into the structurev pocket, inserting a temporarily softened stiffening
of the shoe. It is contemplated, however, that strip between said portions, and then molding the
in some cases, it may be advantageous to as‘ free margin of the portions into an integral in
' v
semble the heel pocket and mold or shape it upon turned ?ange.
a form which is the counterpart of the last, that
vis, the operation of shaping the heel pocket may
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