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Патент USA US2128303

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Aug. 30, 1938.
’
l. B. KAY
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
Filed Jan. 21, 1957
2,128,303
Patented Aug. 30, 1938
; 2,128,303
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE
2,128,303
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
Isadore B. Kay, Chicago, Ill.
Application January 21, 1937, Serial No. 121,525
2 Claims. (Cl. 2-93)
The present invention relates to a garment
construction and method of making the same
and more particularly to expansible pockets pro
vided therein.
Heretofore, in the manufacture of coats, it has
been proposed, to provide a patch pocket, which
was sewed over the material, and unless due care
was exercised in positioning the same, the sur
face design of the material had to be carefully
10 matched, and when in use, the pocket would be
come bulgy and wrinkled.
It is an object of the present invention to pro
vide an eXp-ansible pocket which may be built
in a garment, and which gives to the garment a
15 neat, ?nished appearance, and wherein the pleats
will permit the pocket to expand without distort
ing or causing wrinkling of the garment when
an article is placed in the pocket.
A further object is to provide a coat blank
20 with a cut-out portion between the front and
rear panels and to- pleat the portion of material
below the cut-out portion, so as to, in eifect,
have somewhat the appearance of the average
coat while permitting the pleats to be easily
25 opened without distorting the front panel of the
coat when an article is placed in the pocket, and
whereby the pleats will readily reposition them
selves to their normal positions when the article
is removed.
30
Referring to- the drawing:
Figure 1 illustrates a side view of a completed
coat having a pocket embodying the present in
vention.
Figure 2 is an enlarged partial detail view, il
lustrating the completed pocket in elevation.
Figure 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view
taken on the line 3—3 of Figure 2.
Figure 4 is an enlarged partial detail view
showing the inner side of the pocket shown in
Figure 2.
Figure 5 is a view of the front of the coat
blank.
Figure 6 is a modi?ed form of the front of the
coat blank wherein the portion forming the
pocket is of a separate piece.
Figure 7 illustrates a diagrammatic view of
the portion attached to Figure 6 to form the
pocket; and
Figure 8 is an enlarged cross-sectional view
of the pocket and portion attached thereto, shown
in Figures 6 and 7.
The invention relates more particularly to the
front panel of a coat which is designated by the
numeral I0. The general contour of the blank
55 will vary in accordance with the style of coat to
be made, but the general principles herein dis
closed will be substantially the same with all of
the styles. The front panels are sewed to a rear
panel H which may be of any suitable construc
tion in accordance with the style of back em
ployed in the construction of the coat,lwithout
departing from the principles employed in con
structing the pockets.
7
The front pane-l I0 is provided with an armr
hole or recess I2 which has a cut-out portion I3
that may be of any suitable shape, and which
forms an upstanding portion I0a that is brought
to engage the portion I0 so as to provide a form
?tting coat or the straight or box type of coat.
The cut-out portion I3 extends downwardly and
is preferably cut horizontally at I4 so as to form
the top edge of the pocket of the coat, and this
horizontal cut extends partially through the for
ward portion of the panel and has a small cut
out portion I5 extending upwardly therefrom
which provides for a seam to assist in ?tting the
coat to conform to the body of the wearer.
When the pattern is thus cut, (Fig. 5), the
material between the horizontal cut I 4 and the
bottom edge of the pattern is pleated along dot
and dash lines I6 to form folds, as shown in
Figure 3. These folds I 6 may be parallel vertical
pleats or of any other suitable style, such as di
agonal or of the converging type. When pleated,
the cut-out portion I3 is then brought into juxta
position, so as to provide for a seam I.'I extending
from the arm opening or recess I2 to the horizon
tal cut I4 which forms the top edge of the
pocket. The top edge of the pocket is then ?n
ished off to form a piped pocket opening, as
shown in Figure 2, or it may be ?nished to form a
welt or flap type of pocket. Then the lower edge
of the front panel In is turned to form a ?nished
edge I 8 of the coat, and this turning provides for
securing the lower edge of the folds or pleats
IS in position, as indicated in Figure 2. After
the front panel has been constructed as above
described, a pocket IQ of any suit-able material is
then secured in position with the opening there
of aligned with the edge of the horizontal cut
I 4 and the usual lining (not shown) may then
be applied.
.
As shown in Figure 1, the hand or an article
may be placed in the pocket l9 which will cause
the same to bulge and the pleats I 6 will then
expand between their top and bottom edges I4
and I8 without exerting a pull to the front or back
portions of the panel.
While the coat is buttoned and an article is
placed in the pocket, these pleats I6 will expand 55
5
2,128,303
2
freely and the extreme front edge of the front
panel ID will not be caused to ?are outwardly or
or the like. When built into an overcoat, the
lower edge of the pleats may be left free so as to
pull, as the amount of yield provided in the pleats
will su?ice for articles placed within the pocket.
permit of their opening while the person is walk
ing, and the top portion of the pleats will serve in
In Figure 6, I have shown a modi?ed form of
the same manner as above described, when the
front panel l?b, which is preferably constructed
with an arm-hole or recess Hat and is cut to
extend downwardly along the line l3a to a hori
zontal cut Ma that forms the opening for the
pocket in the same manner as shown in the pre
ferred form, (Fig. 5).
The portion between the
pocket opening and the lower edge of the coat has
an insert 20 that is sewed to the front panel We at
2|, and which insert is provided with a plurality
15 of substantially vertical pleats l?a that extend
toward the back of the coat and are secured to a
person has his hands or an article in the pockets.
I claim:
1. A coat blank having integral front and back
forming members, the blank having a horizontal
pocket forming slit intermediate its upper and
lower edges, the front and back forming members
being spaced apart above said slit by a cut out
portion which extends upwardly and merges into
spaced apart armhole forming portions, the front
and back forming members being continuous 15
below said pocket forming slit.
portion I00‘ of the panel l?b by a seam 22. When
the insert 20 is pleated, the portion I00 is brought
2. A coat having integral front and back form
ing members, armholes and horizontal side pocket
in juxtaposition to form a seam along the line l3a
in the same manner as that shown in Figure 5.
In this modi?ed form the appearance of the
coat when completed is the same as that shown in
openings, a side seam joining said front and back
forming members and extending from an armhole 20
downwardly and terminating at the pocket open
Figure 1, the difference being that an insert is pro
vided to form the space provided by the cut-out
ing, the coat material below said slit being con
tinuous and having ‘vertical pleats extending to
the lower edge of the coat and secured at their top
25 portion I3 in Figure 5, and, when completed, the
seams 2| and 22 will not be visible, as shown in
forming one side of an expansible pocket, and
Figure 8.
While I have shown my improved type of pocket
as built into a suit coat, the same may be em
30 ployed in the construction of a vest, an overcoat,
and bottom ends by stitching, said pleated region
being integral with the front and back sections
above said pocket opening.
ISADORE B. KAY.
30
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