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Патент USA US2128774

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Aug. 30, ‘1938.
z,128;774
F. HOLLAND
MANUFACTURE OF STITCHED AND CEMENTED FOOTWEAR
Filed Sept’. 26, 1935
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Patented Aug. 30, 1938
7 2,128,774
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" UNITED
' 2,128,774
s'rrronnnil AND on
MANUFACTURE .- .OF
‘ M'ENT‘ED FOOTWEAR
, ‘Friedrich .HolIanGLB'rochtQn, , Mass, assignon ,to
' f'C0mpo ‘Shoe ‘Machinery V‘ Corporation, New
‘ vYo‘rk, NrYifacorporationl of‘ Delaware
Application September 26, 1935, Serial No. 42,180
4, Claims.
Thisinvention relates ‘to the manufacture of centcoatings such as vpyroxylin or like cement=in
rufootwearh andrmore particularly to the lubrica , ,thecourse of manufacture or in the?nished'shoe.
Thus, in Fig._ 1, there is shown an outsole "l0
_ yjtion, strengthening and protection of stitching
_having_.a welt llvstitched thereto by'means-pf
. used ‘ in such footwear.
‘
, HAprimary object ofv'theinvention is to provide stitching l2. Such a pre-formed and-prerwelted
5
outsole issometimes used,_for example, inmaking
nanimproved method for lubricating shoe stitch
inggwhich, is latertor contact a coating suchas ,men’s sport _footw,ear,,and it iSBldEvDtEdQtQbG
_ ultimately, attached to the lasted vuppervvhile
‘ ,ypyroxylin cement or the like.
Further objects of the invention are to provide
M10“, animproved meansfor protecting ‘shoe stitching
leaving, a, wide extension edgewhich exposes the
- .10
stitching I2 to view.
For
.‘ against soiling ‘during passage of .the , work
through the factory, while assuring a’ ?rm bond , erally
between the stitched shoe parts.
ornamental purposessuch, stitching is gen
made of white or lightly colored thread
which gives a color contrast with the leather used
in the welt. With suchlightly colored threads,
,‘,Another object of the invention is to provide
n15“ a method of making aqwelted shoe wherein the _ considerable di?iculty is encounteredin present-, 115
lioutsole is a?ixed to thewelt by means‘of, cement, ing them in a clean unsoiled condition in the ul
, ,andwherein the inseam stitching is particularly , timately ?nished ‘shoe.
1 In accordance with the present invention such
_.adapted, to provide, and permitv a strong and
,gsatisfactory bondhetween thG'fShOB parts in its 7 stitching “I2 is not only kept cleanduring-passage
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zowicinity,
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Xetanotherobiedef the inventionisto me
vide a w-elted shoe whereinvthewelt is attached
of‘, the Work through thefactory, but ityis ulti
.-mate1y presented inyatpure white condition?if
white is the light color-desired,which‘is-not even
the presenceof waxor Qtherlubricant.
151190 thelasted ‘upper brmeansefinseem stitching shadedjby
To this end, the stitching I2 is formed of-wax
hand. theoutsolelis attached byv means of cement
i125‘ and in which a lubricant is provided for the in .free ‘thread ‘which maybe of-linen, cotton, or
c??am.StitQhiUgWhiChhaS an \a?’mity for :or is other acceptable material. 'l‘histhread is-lnot
rtgempatjible with the ‘cement used torattach the
.qutsole-
;
.
,
Waxed for lubricating purposes, as isgenerally
done in leather sewing‘ operations,-but is, instead,
~ Q?lleli objects oil-the’ .inventioniwill in part be “in; atpreferred examplavwet, or lubricatedewith
7 liquid pyroxylin cement which, is applied thereto
3°“;lobri9uaand W111 in. part appear, hereinafter
The invention. eceotdingly ‘comprises the; sev
30
shortly before the stitching operation so, that the
will-‘be wet, or, that is to,‘_say,-,su?’1cien_tly /
,.era1.:§tePS., and the relation-of one ormere of Such thread
moist
to
enable the pyroxylin ,coatingtol-actfas
WPSa-With reepeet. tQ-eech of the others,- end the
"entitlepossetsingitheieetures, propertieaend the
35 relation of' elements _which__;are__ exempli?ed-in
tithe ; .iellowing detailed ‘disclosure’; and; the scope
a lubricant, during stitching.
,
>
The area in the vicinity of, thesepyroxylin-ce
ment coated stitches is enowrbrushed- over ‘with; a
coating ,of vpyroxylin cement, designated, ! '3', which
Qo?the application of vwhichwill be indicatedin ,actslasra
protective covering for-thestitching
during passage of the workv through the shoe tac
, Fora fuller understanding vof the nature and tory.
the use of thiscoating as’ a pro
1 40,9 jectsioi the invent'on referenceshould be had tection,Initviewof
is important that: the stitchingbeiywax
to the following detarledldescription takenzin con
»???“Q? cwipth the ~~etcqmpenrine QMWWE in -freetas described, sincev wax, interferesv with or
repels such- cement and. is liable to preventthe
=:;the,,clai_ni_s.
New!
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'
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l is a plan view of a pre-formed and, pre
45. ,welted outsole treated in accordance-with one
,vf‘orm of the present invention;
~
'Fig.12_is a longitudinal sectional View taken
‘along/“line ,2--2 of Fig. 1; and
,
Fig; 3 is a fragmentary transverse sectional
50 viewItaken across vthe'forepart of .ar lasted welted
shoé‘constructed and treated in‘ accordance. with
the present invention.
'
“ The principles of this invention are‘ generally
4 formingfof» aneffective coating.
’
At this stage the stitched area‘ ofwthe shoe has
_,a;protective coating. of. cement which,v is unitary
br 0195.615’ ‘associated With‘the-lubricating-seating
of cement occurring on. the .exposedportions; of
vthe stitching [2-
‘
.
a
‘When, the. 1.51199 is completed, 01‘ :at:.?¢nY-,:Q.17t.1§r
time ,whenitjsdesired tolfree thestithinglZ
4 from "its, protective coating,’ a; suitable solvent (‘is
brushed over or otherwise; appliedgtol the yv-vcoatiqng
epplieeble ,iethemeeefeetere 9f ioetwe‘er Where lei andthe exposedv portions-ofttheestitaes,J12,
rat?etiltctiiee is, 11112369?” genteel; ‘with, adie ?tment eolveei ‘being-applied zto, : enable s$ll§h
45
2,128,774
coating to evaporate or be rubbed entirely away.
The solvent also removes the pyroxylin lubricant
from the exposed portions of the stitching, leav
if a strand or two or even a whole stitch of the
ing them in a natural brilliant white or uncolored
condition.
latter is broken, the thread still will not pull out
While pyroxylin cement comprises a preferred
or highly satisfactory substance for use as the
thread lubricant and coating material, it is con
templated that stitches may thus be protected
a-A
welt and inseam and these operations may be
carried’ quite close to the stitching H2 since even
and later exposed- to view through use of other
suitable lubricants, so long as theyv are soluble,
liquid, and compatible with, i. e. non-repellant
to, the coating material. Various coating ma
terials likewise may be employed, which should
preferably be soluble, together with the lubricant
by means of some common solvent, although this
is not strictly essential. The coating material
may differ from the lubricant Within these desired
limits, or the same substance may be used for
lubricant and coating as in the preferred example
given. Examples of suitable lubricating and/or
coating materials are cellulose esters and ethers
such as cellulose nitrates (including the preferred
pyroxylin cement), cellulose acetate, the methyl,
ethyl, 'etc., ethers and the like. Viscose or plain
cellulose in a suitable solvent might also be used
or run because it is ?rmly anchored in the shoe
by means of its cement lubricating coating which
has by this time set.
After the trimming and before theroughing
operation, a suitable ?ller I8 is applied, and the
required amount of this is much less than usual 10
because of the closeness of inseam trim available
with the pyroxylin lubricated inseam stitches.
Next, an outsole l 9 is a?ixed to the welt l1 and
.the inseam portion of the upper by means of a
cement coating l l3which is applied between these 15
shoe parts. By virtue of the use of a pyroxylin
or like cement lubricant, the bond between the
outsole and upper is much stronger than could
be obtained with ordinary wax lubricated thread
since, as explained above, wax is incompatible 20
with and repels a cement. vAlso, the number of
operations previously needed with conventional
waxed thread is reduced, since heretofore the wax
had to be stripped from the exposed inseam
stitching whenever it was desired to cement in 25
the vicinity. The wax, too, would get on the
for lubricating and/or coating, as well as glues,
especially animal glues. It is believed that all
hands of operators and thence to the sole and
of these materials are compatible in the sense that
effective cemented bond. All such di?iculties are
overcome by the present invention, and in ad 30
dition, a stronger, better and more closely
trimmed welted shoe is provided.
30 any one may be used as a thread lubricant and
any other as a stitch contacting coating with
good results and without any mutual repulsion.
Suitable solvents for the above mentioned lu
bricating and coating materials will readily occur
to those skilled in the art; acetone is mentioned
as one such solvent which is generally useful with
the named cellulose compounds as well as others.
While the invention has thus far been described
in connection with a pre-welted outsole, it will
be clear that it is applicable generally to shoe
parts wherever stitching is intended to be pro
tected against soiling and also wherever lubri
cated stitching is intended to contact a cement
coating. '
In Fig. 3, a further and highly useful applica
tion of the invention is indicated. Here, a welt
shoe is made up by providing an insole Ill having
the usual insole lip or rib l5 to which an upper
l6 and a welt I‘! are attached by stitching des
ignated H2. This stitching is like that described
in the ?rst form in that it is made of wax-free
linen or cotton threads which are lubricated with
pyroxylin cement, or other suitable cement of
the kinds described above, just prior to the inseam
stitching operation so that the applied cement is
still wet enough to lubricate during sewing. When
thus lubricated, these threads may, if desired, be
made thinner than usual, say of ?ve strand linen
instead of seven strand, to permit closer inseam
(30 trimming. After the inseam is sewed, the cement
lubricant is allowed to set, and the inseam is
thereafter trimmed. The use of pyroxylin or
like cement as a lubricant is doubly advantageous
in that it not only is superior to wax because of
its compatibility with the cement later used to
join the outsole to the welt, but it permits an ex
tremely close trim at the inseam because the
thread also is strengthened by its cement coating,
and forms a strong, tight seam wherein every
stitch is ?rmly anchored in place. It is of further
advantage in cemented welt shoes because it en
ables the welt and inseam portions to be roughed
prior to cementing with reduced fear of weaken
ing the joint at the inseam. That is, the shoe is
next reduced at the inseam and roughed at the
welting, where it acted to prevent formation of an '
The cement coating H3 preferably comprises
those among the above recited examples of ma
terials which have sufliciently strong cementi 35
tious properties, pyroxylin or other cellulose de
rivative cements being preferred for this purpose.
The associated lubricant may comprise any of
the herein mentioned examples or their like, all
of which are compatible with any sole a?ixing' 40
cement selected from among those described. The
lubricant preferably should be cementitious when
used at the inseam and like places, to secure the
advantages of a ?rmer sewed bond wherein everyp
stitch is anchored in the leather.
It will be seen that there has been provided
an invention which is well suited to ful?l its in
tended functions. Since certain changes in car
rying out the above method, and certain modi?ca-, .
tions in the article which embody the invention "50
may be made without departing from its scope,
it is intended that all matter contained in the
above‘ description or shown in the accompany
ing drawing shall be interpreted-as illustrative”
and not in a limiting sense.
It is also to be understood that the following
claims are intended to cover all of the generic
and speci?c features of the invention herein
described, and all statements of the scope of the
invention which, as a matter of language, might‘160
be said to fall therebetween.
Having described my invention, what I claim
as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:
I. A method of protecting shoe stitching from ,
soiling, which comprises, providing a wax-free
thread, lubricating said thread with a liquid
capable of forming a soluble coating, sewing shoe
parts together with said thread While the lubri
cant is still wet, applying a soluble coating over
exposed portions of said stitching, using said shoe" 7
parts to make a shoe and, after the shoe is com
pleted, dissolving. said coating and the lubricant
in the exposed portions of said stitching.
2. A method of protecting shoe stitching from
soiling, which comprises,‘providing a wax-free“
3
2,128,774
thread, lubricating said thread with a liquid
cement comprising a cellulose derivative, sewing
shoe parts together with said thread while the
cement lubricant is still wet, and applying a
coating of such cement over exposed portions of
said stitching.
.
3. A method of protecting shoe stitching from
and, after the shoe is completed, dissolving said
coating and the lubricant in the exposed por
tions of said stitching.
_
4. A method of protecting shoe stitching from
soiling, which comprises, providing a wax-free
thread, lubricating said thread with a liquid py
roxylin cement, sewing shoe parts together with
soiling, which comprises, providing a wax-free said thread while the cement lubricant is still
thread, lubricating said thread with a, liquid wet, applying a coating of pyroxylin cement over
exposed portions of said stitching, using said 10
10 cement comprising a cellulose derivative, sewing
shoe parts together with said thread while the shoe parts to make a shoe and, after the shoe is
cement lubricant is still wet, applying a coating completed, dissolving said coating and the lubri
of such cementiover exposed portions of said cant in the exposed portions of said stitching.
'
FRIEDRICH HOLLAND.
stitching, using said shoe parts to make a shoe
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