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Патент USA US2130509

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Sept. 20, 1938.
o. REGEN
I
2,130,509
SEWING MACHINE
Filed Sept. 16, 1956
5 Sheets-Sheet l
Q
H41
76
INVENTOR.
Oscar‘ Reg en.
57
2
J4,
J4
ATTORNEYS
Sept. 2%, 1938.
o. REGEN
2,130,509
SEWING MACHINE
Filed Sept. 16, 1936
3 Sheets-Sheet 2
“wt
INVENTOR.
'
Oscar Regen.
BY 7%m r‘ M
ATTORNEYS
Sept, 20, 1938.
O, REGEN
2,130,509
SEWING MACHINE
Filed Sept. 16, 1956
3 Sheets—Sheet 3
INVENTOR
Oscar Regen.
BY
74%
ATTORNEYS
Patented Sept. 20, 1938
2,130,50s
UNITED STA'i‘Eg PATENT OFFICE
2,130,509
SEWING MACHINE
Oscar Regen, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to 0. Re
gen Manufacturing 0o., Inc., New York, N. Y.,
a corporation of New York
Application September 16, 1936, Serial No. 100,977
19 Claims.
(Cl. 112-104)
This invention relates to the art of sewing,
especially to a method of securing separately
formed attachments to ‘a fabric, and it relates
parts throughout the several views which make
up the drawings, in which:
more particularly to an improved method of
tion, illustrating only so much of the operating
5 securing bows and like adornments t0 the sweat
parts of a sewing machine as are necessary to a
Fig. 1 is a fragmentary View in sectional eleva
leather or band of a hat, and relates also to a
complete understanding of the invention, of
machine for carrying the method into effect.
which certain features have been. embodied in
the structure shown by this ?gure;
Fig. 2 is a view in horizontal sectional plan
taken on the line 2—-2 of Fig. 1,‘ and showing cer
It is a known practice to stitch a bow to the
free margin of a sweat leather by hand, a labori
10 ous operation which is only performed manually
for the reason that no sewing machine of which
I am aware has any appliance which makes the
operation mechanically feasible with results ac
ceptable to the manufacturers of hats, by whom
the bows, etc., are attached to the sweat leathers
in preparation for the assembly of each leather
with its hat.
In order to be acceptable, such a bow must
have its loops disposed in loose, jaunty fashion,
‘131) whereas those attached by machine are custom
arily sewed down flat and tight, owing to the
practical impossibility of utilizing a conventional
form of presser foot, tucker, folder, pleater, or
other known appliance to accomplish the tem
porary displacement of the overlying loops of a
bow while the needle operates upon the knot of
the bow or upon an underlying strand of the bow
material, to stitch the latter in place upon the
sweat leather, thus permitting the restoration of
30 such displaced loop or loops to the positionsv nor
mally occupied by the constituent loops when the
hat is marketed and worn.
Under such conditions, it is an object of the
present invention to provide a novel method of
35 operating upon a bow to perform the steps essen
tial to attachment, which steps include (a), the
assembly of the bow with the sweat band at the
selected region thereof; '(b), the step of holding
down one or more underlyingstrands of the bow,
4.0 in position to be stitched to the leather; (0), the
concurrent displacement of one or more of the
contiguous overlying strands of the bow tempo
rarily, in order to prevent such strands from
being casually fastened to the band by an un
45 intended stitch or stitches, and (d) the step of
stitching by which the bow is attached; the tem
porary displacement not being continued after
the necessary stitch or stitches have been set by
the needle, in substantially the known manner.
Other objects and features of the invention will
appear as the description of the particular physi
cal embodiment selected to illustrate the inven
tion progresses.
In the accompanying drawings, like characters
55 of reference have been applied to corresponding
tain of the parts;
.
Fig. 3 is an elevation, looking from right to
left, of the parts shown in Figs. 1 and 2;
Fig. 4 is a fragmentary, detail view in plan, of
a somewhat schematic character, showing a
sweat leather, at the rear joint of which a bow
is in course of being attached by the needle and
associated parts illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3 inclu
sive;
I
Fig. 5 is a fragmentary detail view in side ele
vation of the parts of a sewing machine head as
illustrated in Fig. 1, the parts occupying a differ
ent operative position; and,
Fig. 6 is a similar view illustrating still an
other position of the parts.
In the now-preferred embodiment of the in
vention selected for illustration, the part desig
nated by the reference character ii is part of
thesewing table of a sewing machine, which, with
its extension I2, may be substantially of known
general construction preferably of the type of
Singer sewing machine known as a “tacker”,
these parts being so disposed and connected to
the actuating mechanism of the sewing machine
that when the operator actuates suitable levers
(not shown), the latter will operate a suitable
clutch or like part (not shown) arranged to start
and stop the machine.
The needle 15, of known form, preferably, is
carried by a plunger 16 adapted to be recipro
cated vertically in a sewing head I‘! of known
form, mounted on the structure of the machine
frame F, (indicated schematically).
In pursuance of the invention, the machine is
provided with a presser foot mechanism desig
nated generally by the reference character P, and
including the foot proper, as l8, carried at the
free end of an arm I9, to which is attached, as by
a cap screw 20, the complemental arm part 21,
the latter being ?tted at 22 in the slotted end of
a bracket 23 mounted tiltingly upon a pivot 24
carried in lugs 35, extending upwardly from a
base plate 32, secured, as by a screw 33, to a
known form of slide S which terminates at its ,
2
2,130,509
free end 3I of the bracket 21 and the base plate
32. Cups 34 aid to keep the spring in aligned
lies under the foot, which is now ready to be
brought down to the position illustrated in Fig. 6.
In the latter position, the strand 46 is held down
against the sweat leather L by the foot I8 and
the strand 4'! has been displaced from its normal
overlying relationship to a retracted position as
shown at 44, thus clearing the way for the needle,
as indicated at I5, to perform the stitching opera
position.
tion.
other end 36, in a roughened feeder part adapted
to cooperate with the presser foot I8.
Above the arm 2|, a bracker 21 is mounted with
an end 28 in position to engage the part 2I at 29,
loosely, being biased thereagainst by a coil spring
30, under compression, interposed between the
The bracket 21 has a combined retaining and
In
After this stitch has been completed, it will be ll)
fulcrum screw 26 extending upward from a yoke" understood that the hook 42 will be withdrawn,
leaving the strand 41 free to resume its normal
25 ?tted over the lugs 25, and preferably trans
?xed by the pivot 24. The slide S’ is caused to T "loose position overlying the strand 46, and the
reciprocate lengthwise by mechanism of known presser foot and hook will be again brought from
the position shown in Fig. 6 to the already de
15 or suitable construction (not shown) .and vwhen
so reciprocated, carries with it the pressor foot' scribed position shown in Fig. 5, where the as
mechanism P and its associated parts. The, sembled foot andhook are ready to receive the
presser foot I8 is normally'biased, by the action loop 45:13 at the other side of the bow for a stitch
of spring 36 to the position shownin Fig. l, ing operation that repeats the steps already de
20 where it is engaged with the roughened feeder ' scribed.
The operations above recited are characteristic
part 36 of the slide S, and an ori?ce 38 in the
presser foot is at all times in line with a like of the attaching operations to be performed on
any of a series of bows to be attached to sweat
ori?ce in the centre of the roughened part 36.
The forward end of the foot is preferably split, bands in pursuance of the novel. method herein
as at 40, and the rear portion 4I constitutes an
elongated recess, for a purpose to be described.
The ori?ce 38 is always in alignment with the
vertical path of the needle I5, where the foot I8
is moved in a vertical plane to its Fig. 5 position,
30 in an arcuate path on a radius around the axis
of pivot 24, inasmuch as the radius is relatively
long. The‘split end 40permits manipulation of
the thread when threading the needle, and avoids
interference between the foot and the end 42 of
a hook member 43 to be now described.
The purpose of the hook member is to displace
temporarily a fold 44 of the loop 45 of the bow
B, so that when the needle I5 pierces the fabric
of the bow it will only stitch through the strand
40 46 of the loop 45, and not through the strand
41, which accordingly is loose and gives a desir
ably informal appearance to the bow. It will be
understood that a stitching, indicated at 46a’ in
Fig. 4, is made in the other loop 451:, and these
45 stitches not only hold down the bow, but prevent
loosening of either'loop.
’
When completed, the bow is thus secured ac
curately and permanently, across the joint or
seam 48, which includes the abutting marginal
edges 56 of the sweat leather, it being understood
that these margins are customarily assembled
with a gummed strip 49 which serves to hold them
securely against displacement.
At the time of sewing the bow upon the sweat
leather the same constitutes, with its edges 50
joined as above described, a closed ring or band
of annular form (not shown) and so can be
manipulated conveniently 'by'the operator of the
sewing machine, with only that degree of skill
60 which may be expected from an operator" accus
tomed to working upon power or‘ hand-actuating
sewing machines.
At the start of the operation of stitching on
the bow B, the needle I 5, presser foot I8 and hook
42 will’ ordinarily occupy the relative positions
illustrated in Fig. 5, all of them being elevated
suf?ciently to clear the roughened feeder portion
36 of the slide S by a space adequate to receive
the leather or band L with the bow B held by
70 the operator, who places an already formed bow,
as B, upon the uplifted foot in such fashion that
the foot I8 and hook 42 (see Fig. 4) are between
thestrands 46 and 41, the strand 4‘! at this stage
of the operation. overlying both the foot I8 and
the superimposed hook 42, while the strand 46
disclosed, and of similar operations in which an
overlying ply of a fabric having two or more plies
is to be displaced ‘to expose the overlying ply and
permit the stitch to be completed while the over
lying ply remains free to resume its overlying
position, not only being loose but also concealing 30
the stitch.
'
I will now describe the now-preferred mecha
nism by which the related movements of the foot
and hook required for the satisfactory accom
plishment of the above described operations may .35
be accomplished, it being understood that it is
intended that the hook 43 shall at all times occupy
a position in the groove 4| of the presser foot
such as to permit the ?nger 43 of the hook to slide
from the position of Figs. 5 and 6 to that of
Fig. l, whlie the hook is biased against the foot
both by the action of gravity and by the action
of the lever system now to be detailed.
This system comprises, in the illustrative form
shown, a plunger 63 carried by, and adapted to 45
reciprocate vertically within, the sewing head I'I
alongside of the needle plunger or bar I6.
At ‘I3 the plunger 63 has a pin-and-slot connec
tion with a walking beam ‘I4 mounted pivotally
at ‘I5 upon the frame F and from the other end of 50
which depends a link ‘I6 running from a suitable
treadle (not shown) or other manually operable
means by which the operator may actuate the
plunger 63. A flat spring 63a acts against the
upper end of the plunger 63 to hold it down.
At the free end 64 of the plunger 63 a head bar
66 is ?xed by a screw 65, extending horizontally
over the leading end of the arm 2I associated with
the forward end of the presser foot arm I9, the
latter having mounted thereon an upright post
‘II provided near its upper end with a horizontal
stud ‘I2, so disposed that when the plunger 64 is
raised by depression of the link 16, the bar 66
will lift the post ‘II and arm I9 with all parts
associated therewith against the action of the
spring 63a.
Toward the rear of the leading end of arm
2 I, as viewed in the plan Fig. 2, is provided a guide
54, secured by screws 55, and having mounted
slidingly therein the shank portion 53 of the hook
member 5I, the latter being bent appropriately
to clear the upright post ‘II, and also having a
reverse bend, as at 56, upon which is set a screw
stud 52, from which a coil spring 66 is stretched .
to a post BI upon the arm 2 I, this spring tending
2,130,509
constantly to bias the hook 43 to its position of
Figs. 5 and 6.
'
Movement of the hook 43 forward to displace
the overlying ply '41 as in. Fig. 4, is accomplished
by the following means, viz., a bell-crank lever
a stud 68 extending into the plane of vertical
movement of the bar 66, while its other end has
a pivot connection, as 59, with a link 58 which is
table, a needle and means to operate the needle, a 10
pivotally connected at 51 with the oifset bend 56
of the hook member 53.
Accordingly, when the operator depresses the
link 16 and raises the plunger 63 and bar 66, the
table a fabric, such as the sweat-band of a hat
and‘ an adornment therefor, such as a bow having
a set of loops each having a plurality of plies
69 which is mounted pivotally at ‘H! on the post
end 61 of the bar‘ moves upward from the Fig. 1
position to the position shown in Fig. 6, and the
bell-crank arm, under the bias of spring 66, com
municated through link 58, turns around its pivot
10, the stud 68 following the end 61 of bar 66, so
that the hook end 42 is now withdrawn to the
position shown in Fig. 6, and is ready to be lifted
with the foot l8 to the Fig. 5 position of these
parts.
This elevation is accomplished simply by the
continued movement of the bar 66 upward, carry
ing with it the post ‘H and its associated parts, by
virtue of the engagement of the bar 65 with the
stud 12, which becomes effective for such elevation
when the bar passes the Fig. 6 position in its up
ward path.
I have described what I believe to be the best
embodiment of my invention. I do not wish, how
ever, to be con?ned to the embodiment shown,
but what I desire to cover by Letters Patent is set
forth in the appended claims.
I claim:
1. A mechanism for securing to a fabric a
separately formed article having a plurality of
plies, such- as a bow or like adornment for the
sweat-band of a hat; said mechanism comprising
means for holding said article in juxtaposition
with said fabric when assembled therewith;
means, co-ordinated with said holding means, for
retracting an overlying ply of said article to eX
45 pose a ply to be secured to’ said fabric; and means
for securing said exposed ply to the underlying
fabric.
-
.
2. A mechanism for securing to a fabric a sep
arately formed article having a plurality of plies,
such as a bow or like adornment for the sweat
band of a hat; said mechanism comprising means
for holding said article in juxtaposition with said
fabric when assembled therewith; means, co
ordinated with'said holding means, for' retracting
55 an overlying ply of said article to expose a ply to
be secured to said fabric; means for securing said
exposed ply to the underlying fabric; and means
for actuating said co-ordinated instrumentalities
in suitably timed relation to cause said retracted
60 ply to resume its overlying position with relation
to said attached ply.
3. A mechanism for securing a bow or like
adornment to the sweat-band of a hat; said mech
anism comprising means for holding said bow in
assembled relation with said band; means, co
ordinated with said holding means, for retracting
an overlying ply of said bow to expose a ply to
be secured to said band; and means for securing
said exposed ply to the underlying band.
70
an overlying ply of a loop to expose a ply to be
secured to said band; means for securing said ex
posed ply to the underlying band; and means for
actuating said co-ordinated instrumentalities in
suitably timed relation to release said retracted
ply and permit the loop to assume its normal full
disposition with relation to the band.
5. A sewing machine comprising, in combina
tion, a supporting structure, including a sewing
‘H and has near the free end of‘ one of its arms
30
3
4. A mechanism for securing to the sweat band
of a hat, a bow formed with a set of loops each
having a plurality of plies; said mechanism com—
prising means for holding said bow upon said
band with said loops spread thereon; means, co
75 ordinated with said holding means, for retracting
presser foot adapted to hold upon said sewing
loosely related to each other; and a retractor de 15
vice co-ordinated with said presser foot, for dis
placing an overlying ply of said loop to expose an
underlying ply to be stitched to said band or
fabric; and means to actuate said retractor device,
in suitably timed relation with the stitching op
eration of said needle, to displace the overlying
ply and, after the underlying ply has been stitched
to the band, to release said displaced ply.
6. A sewing machine comprising, in combina—
tion, a supporting structure, including a sewing 25
table, a needle and means to operate the needle,
a presser foot adapted to hold upon said sewing
table a fabric, such as the sweat-band of a hat and
an adornment therefor, such as a bow having a
set of loops each having a plurality of plies loose 30
ly related to each other; and a retractor device
co-ordinated with said presser foot, for displacing
an overlying ply of said loop‘ to expose an under
lying ply to be stitched to said band or fabric;
and means to actuate said retractor device, in
suitably timed relation with the stitching opera
tion of said needle, to displace the overlying ply
and, after the underlying ply has been stitched to
the band, to release said displaced ply preliminary
to release of said bow by the presser foot, and
means to release said presser foot.
7. A sewing machine comprising, in combina
tion, a supporting structure, including a sewing
table, a needle and means to operate the needle, a
presser foot adapted to hold upon said sewing
table a fabric, such as the sweat-band of a hat
and an adornment therefor, such as a bow having '
a set of loops each having a plurality of plies
loosely related to each other; and a retractor de
vice co-ordinated with said presser foot, for dis
placing an overlying ply of said loop to expose 50
an underlying ply to be stitched to said band of
fabric; and means to actuate said retractor device,
in suitably timed relation with the stitching oper
ation of said needle, to displace the overlying ply
and, after the underlying ply has been stitched to
the band, to release said displaced ply, spring
actuated means to bias said retractor device out
of its operative position, and manually operable
means to move it to displace said ply.
8. A sewing machine comprising, in combina
(30
tion, a supporting structure, including a sewing
table, a needle, and means to operate the needle,
a presser foot adapted to hold upon the sewing
table a fabric such as the sweat-band of a hat,
(i5
and an adornment therefor, such as a bow, said
presser foot being carried at the free endof
an arm supported pivotally upon said structure
and biased toward the table by a ?oating lever
fulcrumed in the vicinity of said pivot and hav
ing one end engaged with an intermediate part 70
of said arm between the pivot and the presser
foot, the other end of said arm, beyond the ful
crum, being engaged with a coiled spring under
compression betweensaid last-named end of the
2,130,509
lever and said table; and means, including a
retractor device, coordinated with said presser
foot, adapted to be inserted in said bow and to
displace an overlying ply thereof while another
ply remains beneath said'presser foot and ex
posed for the stitching operation, whereby said
bow is secured to the band; and means to actuate
said presser foot and said retractor device in
timed relation to release said bow after said
stitching operation.
10
9. In a sewing machine having a needle and
operating means therefor, a sewing table and a
presser foot adapted to hold upon the sewing
table a fabric and another plural ply article to
be attached to said underlying fabric by less than
the total number of the ply components of said
article, said presser foot being formed with a
recess in its upper surface; and a retractor de
vice having a part adapted to move to and fro
$30 in said recess to intervene between superimposed
plies of said article and thereby to displace at
least one of said overlying plies and expose an
underlying ply for securement to said fabric
by the stitching action of said needle.
10. A sewing machine as claimed in claim 9, in
25
which said presser foot and said retractor de- a
vice are adapted to be moved away from the
upper surface of said table in unison; and means
to e?ect said removal, said last-named means
30 comprising a system of levers mounted upon the
sewing head and a manually ‘operable device
adapted to actuate said lever system.
11. An attachment for a sewing machine of the
class having a sewing table, a needle, means to
operate the needle, and a presser foot adapted to
hold upon th’e'sewing table a plural-ply fabric;
said attachment comprising a retractor device,
co-ordinated with said presser foot, and adapted
to be inserted between the plies of said fabric
and to displace part of an overlying ply thereof
while another ply remains beneath said presser
foot and exposed for the stitching operation
whereby another part of said overlying ply is
secured to the last-named ply.
ll)
12. In a sewing machine having a needle, oper
, ating means therefor and a sewing table;
a
presser foot adapted to hold a plural ply article.
upon the sewing table, and formed with a recess
in its upper surface; and a retractor device hav
ing a part adapted to move to and fro in said
recess to intervene between superimposed plies
of said article and thereby to displace at least
one of said overlying plies and expose an under
lying ply for the stitching action of said needle.
V: Cl
13. The method of securing to a fabric a
separately formed article having a plurality of
plies, such as a bow or like adornment. upon
the sweat leather of a hat; said method compris
ing the step of assembling said bow with said
(30 fabric and holding them in juxtaposition; the
concurrently performed step of displacing an
overlying ply to expose a ply to be secured to
said fabric; then securing said exposed ply to
the underlying fabric; and ?nally releasing said
retracted ply and permitting it to resume its
loose overlying positionwith relation to said at
tached ply.
,
sweat, the step ‘of stitching said last-named ply
to said sweat; and then releasing the retracted
parts.
' 15. An attachment for a sewing machine of the
class having a sewing table, a sewing head above
said table, and a presser foot adapted to be moved
upward from said table and downward to hold
against the table a plural ply article to be stitched,
said attachment including a retractor device
adapted to retract an overlying ply of said article 10
to expose a ply to be secured to an underlying ply,
means by which said retractor device may be se
cured to said sewing head in position to present
the device in assembled relation with said presser
foot, and means to actuate said retractor device 15
when so assembled.
16. An attachment for a sewing machine of the
class having a sewing table, a sewing head above
said table, and a presser foot adapted to be moved
upward from said table and downward to hold 20
against the table a plural ply article to be stitched,
said attachment including a retractor device
adapted to retract an overlying ply of said arti
cle to expose a ply to be secured to an underlying
ply, means by which said retractor device may be 25
secured to said sewing head in position to present
the device in assembled relation with said presser
foot and means whereby said presser foot and re
tractor device may be raised and lowered in uni
son, and means forming a unitary structure with 30
said retractor device to permit manual actuation
thereof slidingly with respect to the presser foot,
to displace a ply of material from the path of the
needle while other plies remain under the presser
foot.
'
35
1'7. An attachment for a sewing machine of the
class having a sewing table, a sewing head above
said table, and a presser foot adapted to be moved
upward from said table and downward to hold
against the table a plural ply article to be stitched, 40
said “attachment including a retractor device
adapted to retract an overlying ply of said arti
cle to expose a ply to be secured to an underlying
ply, means by'which said retractor device may be
secured to said sewing head in position to present 45
the device in assembled relation with said presser
foot and means whereby said presser foot and re
tractor device may be raised and lowered in uni
son, said retractor device being adapted where in
raised position, to receive, by lateral imposition, 50
a plural ply fabric, of which a selected ply is
superimposed upon the combined parts, and at
least one ply underlies the presser foot where in
operative position for sewing, the retractor device
being movable slidingly relative to the presser foot 55
to displace the overlying ply from the path of the
needle.
'
18. A presser foot for a sewing machine pro
vided with a slide of the class described, said
presser foot having an elongated recess in its up
per face adapted to receive slidingly a retractor
device, and an ori?ce extending through the bot
tom wall of said recess to permit a sewing ‘needle
to pass therethrough in the operation of sewing,
and the orifice having in communication there 65
with an opening through the wall of said foot.
19. A retractor attachment of the class de
scribed for a sewing machine; said attachment
comprising a plunger member adapted to be
mounted to reciprocate vertically in the sewing 70
head; a bar supported laterally by said plunger;
14. The method of securing a bow structure
comprising a set of loops extending from a cen
70 tral knot, to a fabric, such as the sweat leather
of a hat; said method including the steps of as
sembling a bow upon said sweat leather with at ' a presser foot mounted pivotally upon the sewing
least two.0f said loops spread apart thereupon;
the step of retracting any overlying portions-of
575 said loops to expose the ply to be secured to' said
table of said sewing machine, and having an arm
extending near the path of said bar, and having
an upright post with‘ a stud extending into said 75
2,1305509
5
path; a guide on said arm; a hook device mounted
downwardly toward the sewing table to bring said
to slide in said guide; lever connections whereby,
presser foot into action and concurrently to ad
vance said hook device to displace a ply of fabric
from the path of the sewing needle.
upon movement of said plunger in one direction
said hook will be withdrawn from operative posi
tion by engagement of said bar with said stud;
and a spring means tending to bias said arm
OSCAR REGEN'.
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