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Патент USA US2131055

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Sept. 27, 1938.
Filed April 8, 1937
' 2,131,055
2 Sheets-Sheet 1
Ralph E. Ladae,
Sept. 27, 1938.
R. E. LAD‘UE '
Filed April 8; 1937
2 Sheets-Sheet 2
104ml: Ladue,
Patented Sept. 27, 1938
Ralph E. Ladue, Bronxville, N. Y., assignor, by
direct and mcsne assignments, to Mardel C'or
poration, Wilmington, DeL, a corporation of
Application April 8, 1937, Serial No. 135,636
5 Claims.
This invention relates to improvements in
shirts and has particular reference to improve
I ments in the sleeve structure thereof.
At the present time it is necessary for stores
to stock shirts of various sleeve lengths for
each size, which not only represents a large in
ventory and investment, but requires an enor
mous amount of additional space. Also, the
lengths of the sleeve are not always uniform as
to indicated lengths, owing to di?erence in cut,
abnormally wide or narrow shoulder width of the
wearer, and the like.
In accordance with the present invention, a
shirt is provided in which the cuff is furnished
separately for permanent attachment to the‘end
of the sleeve after the latter has been trimmed
to the proper length to provide the over-all sleeve
length desired or required by the purchaser, the
sleeve of the shirt as manufactured being of a
20 maximum length adequate to meet the standard
sleeve length requirements of the trade.
various standard sleeve lengths are indicated on
the elongated sleeve or the sleeve is measured in
accordance with the measurement of the wearer,
and then trimmed accordingly. The cuff is per
manently attached by a suitable launderproof ad
hesive or cement, or is otherwise permanently at
tached in the store by a very simple operation.
It will be seen that with the present invention,
(01. 2-269)
Figs. 7 and 8 illustrate the method of attach
ment of the arrangement of Fig. 6, these ?gures
showing the parts before and after attachment,
Referring to Fig. 1 of the drawings, numeral
Ill designates the sleeve of a shirt which is com
structed in the usual Way except that the sleeve
is not provided with a culf and is of a length
equal to the maximum sleeve length less the
effective width of the cuff.- The inside surface of
the sleeve it is printed or otherwise marked with
dimension lines ll spaced 1/2 inch apart and with
dimension numerals l2 indicating the 001‘1‘6-7
spending sleeve length less the effective width
of the cuff. The dimension marks ll do not in
dicate the length of the cuiiless sleeve, but rather,"
indicate the ?nished over-all length of the sleeve
after the cuff has been attached thereto. The
sleeve measurement is made from a predeter
mined point on the body of the shirt and this
point customarily is at the center of the top of the
shirt back, i. e., the middle of the base of the
collar or approximate rear collar button position.
Accordingly, the sleeve length is the distance
from this point to the end of the sleeve, which is
the outer edge of the cuff. Thus, to accommo
date the usual trade requirement for a maximumv
sleeve length of thirty-seven inches, a shirt is
provided according to this invention inwhich
30 only one size shirt is provided in each neck-band - the actual distance from the center of the shirt
size and style and the sleeve length is conformed
to ?t the wearer, whether his arms are abnor
mally long or short or whether or not he requires
half-sizes, the cuff being attached to the sleeve
in the store in a few minutes.
This not only
means a better ?t for the wearer and no difficulty
in locating special sleeve lengths, but also results
in a saving of manufacturing and inventory costs,
and material reduction of the stocking space.
For a more complete understanding of the in
vention, reference may be had to the accompany
ing drawings, in which:
Figure 1 illustrates the cuff and sleeve ar
rangement before permanent association accord
ing to the present invention;
Fig. 2 is a cross-section therethrough as seen
along the line 2-2 of Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 illustrates the ?nished sleeve;
Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate in perspective a pre
ferred arrangement for attaching the cuif and
sleeve, these ?gures showing the parts before and
after attachment, respectively;
Fig. 6 illustrates in perspective a French style
culf attached to the sleeve in a different way;
back at the base of the collar to the thirty-seven
inch mark on the sleeve is thirty-seven inches
less the effective width of the cuff, i. e., the total
width of the cuff minus the overlap between the
inner edge of the cuff and the extremity of the
sleeve. These dimension marks ll may be 1/2,
1A, or 1/8 inch apart, depending upon require- .
,ments, and are printed in ink which disappears
on ?rst washing of the shirt; Numerals I 2 are
similarly of an ink which is not fast.
The culf l3, which maybe either round or
French, is preferably constructed at its upper
edge as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2,‘ that is, the
upper edges of the two layers of the cuff ‘material
are turned inwardly and stitched together and
to the corresponding layers at M so that the
upper edge of the cuff is provided with a slot'l5
that is generally V-shaped. The lower edge ii
of the cuff is formed in the usual way and the ‘
cuff may be provided with stiffening material
or not, as required. As ‘shown, particularly in
Fig. 1, the lateral edges of the cuff l3 are stitched
at I‘! so that slot I5 is closed at its ends, forming
a pocket. The width of the cuff I3 is 5/8 inch ‘to.’
1%; inchgreater than the width of the sleeve Ill.
so that the end of the sleeve may be readily
inserted within the slot or pocket l5.
In the preferred arrangement for permanently
fastening the cuffs to the trimmed ends of the
sleeves, the inner sides of the slot [5 of the cuff ID
ing two prongs 24 which are adapted to be en
gaged and spread by the center portion 25 of the
female fastening element 26 so that as the parts
23 and 2B are forced together the prongs 24 are
spread apart by 25 and forced laterally into the
are evenly coated with a thin ?lm of suitable
curved portions 21 of part 26 so that they be
thermoplastic cement which, when set, is not
susceptible to deterioration by water, soaps, and
come locked therein as indicated in Fig. 8 when
other cleaning compounds, or to oxidation such
10 that it loses its ?exibility and adhesion. Merely
by way of example, the thermoplastic coating I8.
the fastener 22 is completely closed.
These fasteners 22 are preferably so con
structed and of such a size as to be inconspicuous 10
and have no projecting corners or edges upon
which objects can catch, which would distort the
compatible thermoplastic resin or the like, such" fasteners or tear the cloth. Other suitable per
may comprise cellulose-acetate, or nitrate, and a
as a vinyl resin or other synthetic resin or other."
manent fastening vmeans may be employed if de
The individually-measured feature of the sleeve
Instead of applying the adhesive or adhering
material or cement directly to the inner surfaces of this invention comprehends the association of
of the slot or pocket if) of the cuff l3, the cuff ‘ a sleeve, of selected length according to the arm
may be constructed as illustrated in Figs?i and .5,
20 in which the upper edges of the outer fabric
layersof'the cuifare turned inwardly at. is and
there is stitched to each of them an adhesive‘
sheet 20 and the outer layers of the cuff and
these adhesive sheets are then stitched together
25. at M’, again forming the V-slot l5. The adhesive
sheet 29 preferably comprises a woven, knitted or
other ‘fabric composed of or containing arti?cial
?laments of cellulose derivative such as cellulose
length of the wearer, and the cuff in the manner
described.‘ Each neckband size and style shirt
is provided with the same maximum length sleeve
with cuifdetached and theprospective weareris,
either measured to determine the proper sleeve;
length or indicates the desired sleeve'length in
inches and fractions thereof. In the ‘store the 25
sleeve i6 is trimmed along the proper selected.
dimension line H and the end 2| ‘of thetrimmed
sleeve is inserted in the slot 55 of the cuff 13,
acetate, ethyl-, methyl-, or benzyl-acetate,,nitro-_ which is then permanently secured to the sleeve
=j cellulose, or‘other ester of cellulose or mixture
thereof, having’ deposited thereon a suitable non
volatile plasticizer, which upon application of
heatand pressure softens the cellulose ?ber so
that it fuses and adheres to the joining fabric
. surfaces and threads.
, In both forms of the invention illustrated in
by the application of heat and pressurein the;
manner described, or by other permanent fastening means, so that the cuff becomes an integral,
part of the sleeve, remaininglpermanently at
tached thereto. Other fastening means, such as
stitching, may be provided but the methods de
scribed have been found satisfactory inasmuch; as
Figs. 1 ‘and 2, or 4, the end 2! of the sleeve Ill is
the ‘application of the‘cuif to the sleeve requires,
inserted within the pocket l5 and the proper de
merely the use of a hot iron or specially pro-;
gree of heat and pressure applied to the joint
40; so that the‘cementitious material H3 or 2D softens
and'fuses to and between the meshes of the side
w’allsof the slot N3 of the cuff l3 and the sleeve
If), uniting the sleeve to the cuff with a perma
nent and secure bond which is launderproof and
45: not broken down or deteriorated by repeated
washings, oxidation, or contact with any of the
ordinary washing or cleaning ?uids or the like to
which a‘ shirt is subjected in ordinary use. The
cementing agent is so selected that the joint
1; is ?exible and remains ?exible so?that it prefer
ably does not materially increase the stiffness of
the cu? when starch or other stiffening material
or processes are employed.
'Inasmuch as the greatest strain on the joint
occurs at the upper corner of the cuff, the stitch-A
ing ll is preferably carried to its upper edge, as
shown in Fig. 1, so that any strain on the upper
corner of the cuff is ‘applied, to the stitched joint
ratherthan to the cemented joint, although for
ordinary use the cemented joint has been found
to be su?iciently strong, and‘unless the additional
precaution is deemed necessary, theslot I5 need
not be pocket-shaped, i. e;,1 stitching i’! need not
be carried beyond the bottom of the pocket or
652 slot 15 and the cuff l3 may-be made the same
width asthe sleeve
Where evengreater strength is required at the
upper corner of the cuff , the cuff may be cemented
vided heating tool, whereby the proper degree of
heat and pressure may be applied to the parts-in 403
the manner described to secure the, permanent
Accordingly with the arrangement of the pres
ent invention, the‘ manufacturer provides only
one fneckband size shirt in each style with‘ the
corresponding cuffs, whereby manufacturing and
inventory costs and stocking space, with its at-.
tendant costs, are saved and the wearer is pr0¢
vided with a perfect ?t in so far as sleeve length
is concerned, even to fractions of inches.
>Also if desired, each shirtmay be provided
with either- detached round or French cuffs, as;
illustrated in Figs. 3 and 6, or with both, so that
the wearer may select as between the two, thus
effecting another saving in cost and stock of
shirts with both kinds of cuff.
,While certain preferred embodiments of the‘.
invention have been‘illustrated and described
herein, it is-to be understood that the invention.
is not limited thereby but is susceptible of varia
tions of form and detail within the-scope of'the
appended claims. Thus ‘other cements or ad-1
hesives softenable by heat, solvents or the like,
or other permanent fastening means and meth
ods may be employed, so long as the cuff, once ‘65b
attached to the trimmedrsleeve, permanently
remains an integral‘ part of the sleeve,
to the sleeve, as described, and metallic self-lock
ing fasteners 22, such as are illustrated in Figs.
l. The method of manufacturing shirts, which
comprises ?rst forming a completed shirt butv de-‘” 70C,
6, 7 ‘and 8 may be employed. ‘ These fasteners
void of cuffs and having the sleev'esthereof permanently attached at the shoulder end to the‘
bodyof the shirt and formed of a predetermined
length adequate to meet the standard sleeve‘?
length requirements of the trade, separately form- '
2-2 are formed of pliable non-oxidizing or non
corrosive metal, which is proof against deteriora
tionv byjthe ‘usual laundering fluids and com
pounds, and. comprises a‘ male portion23 hav-_
2,131,055 _ing completed cuffs‘ of a predetermined width
for the sleeves, subsequently trimming the sleeves
at the cuff end at a point measured from a pre
determined point on the shirt body and corre
sponding to the ?nished sleeve length less the
effective width of the cuffs, and. then permanently
attaching the preformed cuffs to the ends of the
sleeves so trimmed to produce a shirt having
sleeves of predetermined over-all length.
2. The method of manufacturing shirts, which
comprises first forming a completed shirt but
devoid of cuffs and having the sleeves thereof
permanently attached at the shoulders and
formed of a predetermined length adequate to
meet the standard sleeve length requirements of
the trade, providing spaced dimension markings
on the ends of the sleeves equal to a ?nished
sleeve length less the effective width of the cuiT
and indicating the various sleeve length dimen
20 sions according to the requirements of the trade,
separately forming cuffs for the sleeves, trim
ming the sleeves at a selected marking thereon
corresponding to the predetermined sleeve length
> for the wearer, and then permanently attaching
25 the said cuffs to- the ends of the sleeves so
trimmed to produce sleeves corresponding in
over-all length to that indicated by the selected
3. As a new article of manufacture, a com
pleted shirt ready for sale and having sleeves
permanently attached at the shoulders but devoid
of cuffs and of a predetermined length adequate
to meet the standard sleeve length requirements
of the trade, and a pair of separate, preformed
cuffs of predetermined effective width for per
manent attachment to the ends of the said sleeves
after the latter have been trimmed to conform V
to the predetermined sleeve length of the wearer.
4. As a new article of manufacture, a com
pleted shirt ready for sale but devoid of cuffs
and having sleeves of a predetermined length
adequate to meet the standard sleeve length re
quirements of the trade, said sleeves having trans
verse dimension marks spaced from the ends 10
thereof and indicating the location where the
sleeve is to be trimmed to form the standard
sleeve length desired, and a pair of separate,
completed cuffs of predetermined e?ective width
adapted to be permanentlyv secured to the ends
of the said sleeves after the latter have been
trimmed o? transversely at one of said marks
corresponding to the predetermined sleeve length
desired to produce completed sleeves correspond
ing in over-all length to the-standard sleeve 20
length indicated by the mark at which the sleeves
were trimmed.
5. As a new article of manufacture, a com
pleted shirt having sleeves permanently attached
at the’shoulders thereof but devoid of cuffs and 25
of a predetermined length adequate to meet the
standard sleeve length requirements of the trade,
a pair of separate completed pre-formed cu?s of
a predetermined effective width, and means on
said cuifs for permanently attaching the said
cu?s to the ends of the corresponding sleeves
after the latter have been trimmed to conform
to the predetermined sleeve-length of the wearer.
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