Патент USA US2131055код для вставки
Sept. 27, 1938. R, E_ LADUE ’ SHIRT Filed April 8, 1937 ' 2,131,055 ' 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. Ralph E. Ladae, BIS ATTORNEYS Sept. 27, 1938. ' v R. E. LAD‘UE ' SHIRT Filed April 8; 1937 2,131,055 . 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 16 INVENTOR. 104ml: Ladue, ATTORNEYS Patented Sept. 27, 1938 2,131,055 CU UNITED STATES PATENT. OFFICE‘ 2,131,055 snm'r Ralph E. Ladue, Bronxville, N. Y., assignor, by direct and mcsne assignments, to Mardel C'or poration, Wilmington, DeL, a corporation of Delaware Application April 8, 1937, Serial No. 135,636 5 Claims. This invention relates to improvements in shirts and has particular reference to improve I ments in the sleeve structure thereof. 10? At the present time it is necessary for stores to stock shirts of various sleeve lengths for each size, which not only represents a large in ventory and investment, but requires an enor mous amount of additional space. Also, the lengths of the sleeve are not always uniform as to indicated lengths, owing to di?erence in cut, abnormally wide or narrow shoulder width of the wearer, and the like. In accordance with the present invention, a shirt is provided in which the cuff is furnished separately for permanent attachment to the‘end of the sleeve after the latter has been trimmed to the proper length to provide the over-all sleeve length desired or required by the purchaser, the sleeve of the shirt as manufactured being of a 20 maximum length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade. The various standard sleeve lengths are indicated on the elongated sleeve or the sleeve is measured in accordance with the measurement of the wearer, and then trimmed accordingly. The cuff is per manently attached by a suitable launderproof ad hesive or cement, or is otherwise permanently at tached in the store by a very simple operation. It will be seen that with the present invention, (01. 2-269) Figs. 7 and 8 illustrate the method of attach ment of the arrangement of Fig. 6, these ?gures showing the parts before and after attachment, respectively. ‘ Referring to Fig. 1 of the drawings, numeral Ill designates the sleeve of a shirt which is com structed in the usual Way except that the sleeve is not provided with a culf and is of a length equal to the maximum sleeve length less the effective width of the cuff.- The inside surface of the sleeve it is printed or otherwise marked with dimension lines ll spaced 1/2 inch apart and with dimension numerals l2 indicating the 001‘1‘6-7 spending sleeve length less the effective width of the cuff. The dimension marks ll do not in dicate the length of the cuiiless sleeve, but rather," indicate the ?nished over-all length of the sleeve after the cuff has been attached thereto. The sleeve measurement is made from a predeter mined point on the body of the shirt and this point customarily is at the center of the top of the shirt back, i. e., the middle of the base of the collar or approximate rear collar button position. Accordingly, the sleeve length is the distance from this point to the end of the sleeve, which is the outer edge of the cuff. Thus, to accommo date the usual trade requirement for a maximumv sleeve length of thirty-seven inches, a shirt is provided according to this invention inwhich 30 only one size shirt is provided in each neck-band - the actual distance from the center of the shirt size and style and the sleeve length is conformed to ?t the wearer, whether his arms are abnor mally long or short or whether or not he requires half-sizes, the cuff being attached to the sleeve in the store in a few minutes. This not only means a better ?t for the wearer and no difficulty in locating special sleeve lengths, but also results in a saving of manufacturing and inventory costs, and material reduction of the stocking space. For a more complete understanding of the in vention, reference may be had to the accompany ing drawings, in which: _ Figure 1 illustrates the cuff and sleeve ar rangement before permanent association accord ing to the present invention; Fig. 2 is a cross-section therethrough as seen along the line 2-2 of Fig. 1; Fig. 3 illustrates the ?nished sleeve; Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate in perspective a pre ferred arrangement for attaching the cuif and sleeve, these ?gures showing the parts before and after attachment, respectively; Fig. 6 illustrates in perspective a French style culf attached to the sleeve in a different way; and - back at the base of the collar to the thirty-seven inch mark on the sleeve is thirty-seven inches less the effective width of the cuff, i. e., the total width of the cuff minus the overlap between the inner edge of the cuff and the extremity of the sleeve. These dimension marks ll may be 1/2, 1A, or 1/8 inch apart, depending upon require- . ,ments, and are printed in ink which disappears on ?rst washing of the shirt; Numerals I 2 are similarly of an ink which is not fast. The culf l3, which maybe either round or French, is preferably constructed at its upper edge as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2,‘ that is, the upper edges of the two layers of the cuff ‘material are turned inwardly and stitched together and to the corresponding layers at M so that the upper edge of the cuff is provided with a slot'l5 that is generally V-shaped. The lower edge ii of the cuff is formed in the usual way and the ‘ cuff may be provided with stiffening material or not, as required. As ‘shown, particularly in Fig. 1, the lateral edges of the cuff l3 are stitched at I‘! so that slot I5 is closed at its ends, forming a pocket. The width of the cuff I3 is 5/8 inch ‘to.’ 1%; inchgreater than the width of the sleeve Ill. 2,131,055 so that the end of the sleeve may be readily inserted within the slot or pocket l5. In the preferred arrangement for permanently fastening the cuffs to the trimmed ends of the sleeves, the inner sides of the slot [5 of the cuff ID ing two prongs 24 which are adapted to be en gaged and spread by the center portion 25 of the female fastening element 26 so that as the parts 23 and 2B are forced together the prongs 24 are spread apart by 25 and forced laterally into the are evenly coated with a thin ?lm of suitable curved portions 21 of part 26 so that they be thermoplastic cement which, when set, is not susceptible to deterioration by water, soaps, and come locked therein as indicated in Fig. 8 when other cleaning compounds, or to oxidation such 10 that it loses its ?exibility and adhesion. Merely by way of example, the thermoplastic coating I8. the fastener 22 is completely closed. These fasteners 22 are preferably so con structed and of such a size as to be inconspicuous 10 and have no projecting corners or edges upon which objects can catch, which would distort the compatible thermoplastic resin or the like, such" fasteners or tear the cloth. Other suitable per may comprise cellulose-acetate, or nitrate, and a as a vinyl resin or other synthetic resin or other." 15 plasticizer. manent fastening vmeans may be employed if de sired. ~ ‘ ~ 15 ‘ The individually-measured feature of the sleeve Instead of applying the adhesive or adhering material or cement directly to the inner surfaces of this invention comprehends the association of of the slot or pocket if) of the cuff l3, the cuff ‘ a sleeve, of selected length according to the arm may be constructed as illustrated in Figs?i and .5, 20 in which the upper edges of the outer fabric layersof'the cuifare turned inwardly at. is and there is stitched to each of them an adhesive‘ sheet 20 and the outer layers of the cuff and these adhesive sheets are then stitched together 25. at M’, again forming the V-slot l5. The adhesive sheet 29 preferably comprises a woven, knitted or other ‘fabric composed of or containing arti?cial ?laments of cellulose derivative such as cellulose length of the wearer, and the cuff in the manner described.‘ Each neckband size and style shirt is provided with the same maximum length sleeve with cuifdetached and theprospective weareris, either measured to determine the proper sleeve; length or indicates the desired sleeve'length in inches and fractions thereof. In the ‘store the 25 sleeve i6 is trimmed along the proper selected. dimension line H and the end 2| ‘of thetrimmed sleeve is inserted in the slot 55 of the cuff 13, acetate, ethyl-, methyl-, or benzyl-acetate,,nitro-_ which is then permanently secured to the sleeve =j cellulose, or‘other ester of cellulose or mixture thereof, having’ deposited thereon a suitable non volatile plasticizer, which upon application of heatand pressure softens the cellulose ?ber so that it fuses and adheres to the joining fabric . surfaces and threads. , In both forms of the invention illustrated in by the application of heat and pressurein the; manner described, or by other permanent fastening means, so that the cuff becomes an integral, part of the sleeve, remaininglpermanently at tached thereto. Other fastening means, such as stitching, may be provided but the methods de scribed have been found satisfactory inasmuch; as Figs. 1 ‘and 2, or 4, the end 2! of the sleeve Ill is the ‘application of the‘cuif to the sleeve requires, inserted within the pocket l5 and the proper de merely the use of a hot iron or specially pro-; gree of heat and pressure applied to the joint 40; so that the‘cementitious material H3 or 2D softens and'fuses to and between the meshes of the side w’allsof the slot N3 of the cuff l3 and the sleeve If), uniting the sleeve to the cuff with a perma nent and secure bond which is launderproof and 45: not broken down or deteriorated by repeated washings, oxidation, or contact with any of the ordinary washing or cleaning ?uids or the like to which a‘ shirt is subjected in ordinary use. The cementing agent is so selected that the joint 1; is ?exible and remains ?exible so?that it prefer ably does not materially increase the stiffness of the cu? when starch or other stiffening material or processes are employed. 'Inasmuch as the greatest strain on the joint occurs at the upper corner of the cuff, the stitch-A ing ll is preferably carried to its upper edge, as shown in Fig. 1, so that any strain on the upper corner of the cuff is ‘applied, to the stitched joint ratherthan to the cemented joint, although for ordinary use the cemented joint has been found to be su?iciently strong, and‘unless the additional precaution is deemed necessary, theslot I5 need not be pocket-shaped, i. e;,1 stitching i’! need not be carried beyond the bottom of the pocket or 652 slot 15 and the cuff l3 may-be made the same width asthe sleeve Ii). ' , _ Where evengreater strength is required at the upper corner of the cuff , the cuff may be cemented vided heating tool, whereby the proper degree of heat and pressure may be applied to the parts-in 403 the manner described to secure the, permanent attachment. ' n _ _ Accordingly with the arrangement of the pres ent invention, the‘ manufacturer provides only one fneckband size shirt in each style with‘ the corresponding cuffs, whereby manufacturing and inventory costs and stocking space, with its at-. tendant costs, are saved and the wearer is pr0¢ vided with a perfect ?t in so far as sleeve length is concerned, even to fractions of inches. >Also if desired, each shirtmay be provided 5011 with either- detached round or French cuffs, as; illustrated in Figs. 3 and 6, or with both, so that the wearer may select as between the two, thus effecting another saving in cost and stock of shirts with both kinds of cuff. ,While certain preferred embodiments of the‘. invention have been‘illustrated and described herein, it is-to be understood that the invention. is not limited thereby but is susceptible of varia tions of form and detail within the-scope of'the appended claims. Thus ‘other cements or ad-1 hesives softenable by heat, solvents or the like, or other permanent fastening means and meth ods may be employed, so long as the cuff, once ‘65b attached to the trimmedrsleeve, permanently remains an integral‘ part of the sleeve, I claim: ' ~ ' I to the sleeve, as described, and metallic self-lock ing fasteners 22, such as are illustrated in Figs. l. The method of manufacturing shirts, which comprises ?rst forming a completed shirt butv de-‘” 70C, 6, 7 ‘and 8 may be employed. ‘ These fasteners void of cuffs and having the sleev'esthereof permanently attached at the shoulder end to the‘ bodyof the shirt and formed of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve‘? length requirements of the trade, separately form- ' 2-2 are formed of pliable non-oxidizing or non corrosive metal, which is proof against deteriora tionv byjthe ‘usual laundering fluids and com pounds, and. comprises a‘ male portion23 hav-_ ' 2,131,055 _ing completed cuffs‘ of a predetermined width for the sleeves, subsequently trimming the sleeves at the cuff end at a point measured from a pre determined point on the shirt body and corre sponding to the ?nished sleeve length less the effective width of the cuffs, and. then permanently attaching the preformed cuffs to the ends of the sleeves so trimmed to produce a shirt having sleeves of predetermined over-all length. 10 2. The method of manufacturing shirts, which comprises first forming a completed shirt but devoid of cuffs and having the sleeves thereof permanently attached at the shoulders and formed of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, providing spaced dimension markings on the ends of the sleeves equal to a ?nished sleeve length less the effective width of the cuiT and indicating the various sleeve length dimen 20 sions according to the requirements of the trade, separately forming cuffs for the sleeves, trim ming the sleeves at a selected marking thereon corresponding to the predetermined sleeve length > for the wearer, and then permanently attaching 25 the said cuffs to- the ends of the sleeves so trimmed to produce sleeves corresponding in over-all length to that indicated by the selected marking. 30 ~ 3. As a new article of manufacture, a com pleted shirt ready for sale and having sleeves permanently attached at the shoulders but devoid of cuffs and of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, and a pair of separate, preformed 3 cuffs of predetermined effective width for per manent attachment to the ends of the said sleeves after the latter have been trimmed to conform V to the predetermined sleeve length of the wearer. 4. As a new article of manufacture, a com pleted shirt ready for sale but devoid of cuffs and having sleeves of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length re quirements of the trade, said sleeves having trans verse dimension marks spaced from the ends 10 thereof and indicating the location where the sleeve is to be trimmed to form the standard sleeve length desired, and a pair of separate, completed cuffs of predetermined e?ective width adapted to be permanentlyv secured to the ends of the said sleeves after the latter have been trimmed o? transversely at one of said marks corresponding to the predetermined sleeve length desired to produce completed sleeves correspond ing in over-all length to the-standard sleeve 20 length indicated by the mark at which the sleeves were trimmed. 5. As a new article of manufacture, a com pleted shirt having sleeves permanently attached at the’shoulders thereof but devoid of cuffs and 25 of a predetermined length adequate to meet the standard sleeve length requirements of the trade, a pair of separate completed pre-formed cu?s of a predetermined effective width, and means on said cuifs for permanently attaching the said cu?s to the ends of the corresponding sleeves after the latter have been trimmed to conform to the predetermined sleeve-length of the wearer. RALPH E. LADUE'.