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Патент USA US2131707

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Sept. 27, 1938.
_
‘
' J. LEONARD
FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN
Filed Sept. 30, 1936
2,131,707
6 Sheets-Sheet 1
ZZ
YINVENTOR.
Joseph Lea/7dr
BY
A TTORNEYS.
Sept. 27,_ 1938.
J. LEbNARD
2,131,707
FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN’
'Filed Sept. 30, 1936
'
6 Sheets-Sheet 2
-
iNVENToR. '
Jaseph z eonard
ATTORNEYS
Sept. 27, 1938.
J_ LEONARD
I
2,131,707
FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN
Filed Sept. 30,_ 1936
6 Sheets-She'et 5
INVENTOR '
Joseph Lea/70rd
BY
vATTORNEYS
Sept. 27, 1938.
' J. LEONARD
_
2,131,707
FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN
Filed Sept. 30, 1956
6 Sheets-Sheet ‘4
INVENTOR;
Jasep/r Lea/74rd
ATTORNEYS
'
Sept. 27, 1938.
.1. LEONARD
2,131,707
FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN
Filed Sept. 30, 1936
'6 Sheets-Sheet 5
'
1NVENTOR.
Joseph Lea/Yard
5Y7: ‘"wwg’? '
ATTORNEYS
Sept. 27; 1938'.
J; LEONARD
’
2,131,707
FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN
Filed Sept. 30, 1956
6 Sheets-Sheet 6
INVENTOR.
_ Joseph Lea/74rd
BY
I
ATTORNEYS.
2,131,707?
Patented Sept. 27, 1938
UNITED STATES PATENT. orrlcn
2,131,707
-
.
FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOME
Joseph Leonard, Allentown, Pa., assignor to
Charis Corporation, New York, N. Y., a cor
poration of New York
.
-~
‘
Application September so, 1936, Serial No; 103,245 "
7 Claims. (Cl. 2-30)
Coincident with the slightv drooping forward
This invention relates to foundation garments
for women wherein such support is given to the
?gure that its graceful and hygienic line of con
tour is maintained in sitting as well as in stand
5 ing position.
7'
’
While the normal inward curve of the back at
the waistline is one of the characteristics of the
?gure which gives grace and beauty, its impor
tance to health is so well recognized in the medi
10 cal profession that it is stressed even in the
' most elemental ‘textbooks on physiology.
The
slouching sitting posture with the lumbar curve
straightened or reversed not only tends to bring
about or prolong many of the spinal and sacroiliac
16 ailments arising from misplacement of the bony
structure with the nervous disorders incidental
thereto, but is likely to result in organic troubles
perhaps more especially with women than with
20»
of the shoulders and the tilting downward of
the bustline in sitting position the muscular
structure of the buttocks and lower back is con
siderably extended both vertically and laterally.
Present-day corsets for the most part extend well
below the buttocks with the boning curved in
wardly at the bottom, and in assuming a sitting
position this muscular extension pulls down
wardly the corset along the waistline and upper
10
back, causes an unhygienic and discomforting
pressure on the breasts and tends to prevent’the
normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders .
and the tilting downward of the bustline as above
set
forth.
‘
'
-?
~
.
,
7
One of the objects of this'in'vention is to pro
vide for the drawing down of the corset in assum
ing sitting position without interfering with the
men.
normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders -
One of the objects of this invention is to pro
vide a foundation garment which tends to pre4
vent a slouching position in sitting and to main
doing to construct the garment insuch away
20
and the tilting down of the bustline and in so‘
tain the lumbar curve in both standing and sit
as to tend to maintain thelumbar curve in both
standing and sitting positions as heretofore '.
ting positions while at the same time serving its
referred to.
25 purpose as a foundation ‘garment in giving to the
?gure or maintaining therein lines of grace and
beauty to accord with artistic requirements.
In sitting position there occurs a relaxation of
certain of the shoulder and chest muscles sup
30 porting the upper ribs and shoulder blades and
of the so-called skin muscles (platysma myoides)
extending downwardly from the neck which con
tribute to thesupport of the breasts. This re
laxation causes a slight drooping forward of the
shoulders and a tilting downward of the bustline
(the horizontal line from the tip of the breasts
back through the'?gure) in sitting position.
'
'
_
'
;
‘
Another object'of this invention is, while pre 25
serving and providing for the objects heretofore
speci?ed, to provide a boning reenforcement of
the garment structure at the back whioh'will
bridge the waistline and will tend to keep they 7
lower part of the shoulders in vertical alignment 30'
with the rearward extremities ofthe buttocks.‘
Further objects of’ this invention will become
apparent without speci?c mention'as the disclo
sure
In hereof‘proc'eeds.
carrying out the objects
‘ of
_- the
'
invention I
have
developed a - novel combination corset
brassiere in which what may be‘termed the corset
member terminates in the front and sides slightly
One of the objects of this invention is to pro
vide a support for the breasts which will permit of below the lower borderlineof the. breasts and in
40 this normal slight drooping forward of the shoul ‘the back extends‘to a position well above the‘
waistline and preferably to a 'line'approximately
ders and tilting downward of the bustline in sit
midway between the top of the ilia and the lower
ting position and which will at the same time co
operate with the other features of the foundation margin- of the scapulae, with‘variations prefer-'
45
garment in maintaining the lumbar curve.
The normalv slight drooping forward of the
shoulders in sitting position where a corset of
the ordinary type is worn, especially if the corset
is provided with boning, results in the upper
rear edge of the corset protruding and breaking
50 the line of the outer garments in a very un
sightly manner.
One of the objects of this invention is to pro
vide a structure which prevents the rearward
protrusion of the top of the garment when the
55 wearer is in sitting position.
ably above thattline rather than below it.
The
corset member atthefback is preferably. pro-L
vided with boning which spansrthe waistline and
extends upward substantiallyvto the top edge of
the back portion. The back portion is, however,
so constructed as to exert-little or'no pressure‘
laterally on the breasts or across the chest wall
immediately beneath the breasts.
- T
50'
‘
vThe brassiere member» of the garment encircles .,
the body with its lower border likewise well above,
the waistline. It overlaps the back of thecorset;
member in both ‘standing. and sittingrpositionsi
‘ 2
2,131,707
of the wearer and has vertical movement relative
to the back portion of the corset member to
accommodate the various postures of the body
so that the upper portion of the back in the
lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region is sup
ported in proper position bythe cooperative ac
tion of both the brassiére and corset members.
In the front the brassiere member is provided
above with the usual breast ' pockets, beneath
10 which it encompasses the upper part of the dia
phragm and the region immediately below the
breasts.
In the drawings which form a part of this
application, I have illustrated two forms of com
bination corset brassiéres embodying the various
characteristics of my invention above set forth.
The drawings, however, are intended for illus
trativepurpose only and no limitations on the
invention should be construed. therefrom either
in respect to the details of construction of the
two particular garments shown or as to those
garments as types. In these drawings,—
10
_ “Figure 1 is a front elevation of one form of
In‘point of structure in the front the " garment embodying my invention-with the wearer
brassiére member may conveniently be made in- - iii-standing position;
i
tegral with the corset member and this unity of _
Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the garment of Fig.
structure may or may not characterize the side
portions of the brassiére member and corset
member toward the front. In either event, piv
otal connections are provided between the bras
siére member and the corset member, one on
20 each side at the bottom of the brassiere mem-'
ber either at the, sides of; the ‘garment or slightly
to the rear thereof,_depending on the points of
permanent attachment of; the brassiére member
to the corset member. It is about these pivotal
25 connections that the brassiere member moves in
accommodating itself to the various positions of
the breasts and, body, in standing, bending and
sitting; and it is by reason of these pivotal con-»
nections that the brassiére ‘and corset members
30 are maintained in their proper relation regard
. less of the position of the'body.
The brassiere
member is provided with shoulder straps in the
usual manner.
-
The structure and proportions of the parts are
36 such that in standing and sitting positions and
in the various postures‘ in going from ‘the, one
position to the other, the support of the founda
tion garment as a vwhole is continuous and un
broken, and whileQthe ‘brassierej, member tilts
40 about its pivotal attachments in accommodating
the'various positions and postures of the body,
this support of the foundation’garment is not
lessenedor weakened thereby.
>
~
I am well aware that combination corset bras
45 siéres as such are very old in ‘the art'which fur
nishes many examples of foundation garments
of this general classi?cation which are divided
across the front or across the back or both. These
prior art garments, however, in, no case known to
50 me accomplish the objects-above set forth, nor
are they characterized by the structure‘v of my
invention hereinabove generally explained. In
many cases-the corset member terminated ap—
proximately at or below the‘ waistline so that
55 there was a break in the support for» the back
of the wearer at the point where the support is‘
most needed, from the standpoint 'ofboth proper'
posture and good lines. If boning were employed‘
the upper ends of the boning tended 'toipress into
60 the back of the wearer and cause great-discom
fort. The tilting of the bustline' on assuming‘
sitting position in its relation to the lumbar curve‘
was‘apparently never before appreciated in cor-V
1, with the wearer in standing position;
. Fig. 2a is a view corresponding with Fig. 2 and
:shows in rear elevation the second form of gar
ment embodying my invention hereinbefore re
ferredto; and
Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the garment of Fig. 20
l, withthe wearer in'standing position and with
the upper arms of the wearer in substantially
horizontal position;
,
‘Fig. 3a is a view corresponding with Fig. 3 and
shows in side elevation the garment of Fig. 2a.
Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the garment of Fig.
1-, with the wearer sitting and with the upper
arms of the wearer in the position of Fig. 3;
Fig. 5 is ‘a front elevation of the garment of
Fig. 1-, with the wearerin sitting positionrand 30
the arms relaxed in substantially vertical posi
tion;
1
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>7
>
j
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.
I Fig. 6 is a perspective of the garment of Fig. 1,
showing a rear side viewwith the wearer in sit-r
ting position and the arms relaxed with the hands
resting on the knees;
V
V
‘Fig. '7 is aview similar to Fig. 6 with the bras~
siere member of the garment of Fig. 1 cut apart
vertically near the center line of the back to
show the upper part of the corset member and
toillustrate the failure of support afforded by
the upper 'part of the corset member in the ab
sence of the‘cooperating action of the brassiére
member;
'
’
'
Fig. 8 _is an elevational view of the garment 45
modeled in the ?rst seven ?gures opened out and
showing the interior of the garment;
' Fig.‘9 is 'adetailed View‘ illustrating the par»
ticular type of pivotal connection between the
brassiére member and the corset member em
ployed in the garment of Fig. 1;
50
The standing ?gures in the front and rear views
are turned slightly to the side for clearness of
illustration. ‘
' Referring'more particularly to the drawings, 55
the garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to‘ 9, inclusive,
and its operation-will ?rst be described in vdetail.
The corset member
The corset member A in general construction 60
follows more or less conventional lines except
as to its upper portion above the waistline indi-'
cated by the dot and dash line b—b. Thus, the
set‘ construction, with the result that the bras-z V corset member is composed of a series of strips
of fabric and elastic sewed together and bound 65
65 siére member was either ?rmly attached to the
corset member throughout the 'front- and side por
tions of the corset well" toward the back thereof,
so that the‘ pivotal movement above set forth
was impossible, or ‘was'merely attached 'to-the
70 front of the‘corset' member with" the back of the
with taping as is customary in the modern art of
corsetry, with stocking supporters attached to the
lower border and being sufficiently long to en
compass the buttocks and the upper portion of
the thighs, so that ,in sitting position the corset
brassiére' member having "no ‘functional relation‘ member extends forwardly beyond the points of
the ischia and is ?rmly maintained in position
theback portion ‘of the corset member. My in-' by the weight of the wearer;
vention' should not, therefore; be confused with
More particularly, the back of the corset mem
.75 1 the‘examples of the prior'art just set forth.
ber is formed with a center panel of fabric Ill and 75
whatever with the'supporting characteristics of
3..
2,131,707
two side panels ll—il ?rmly stitchedthereto.
‘TheYcut aw'ay fabric portions of the back and‘
The side‘ portions. of the corset member com
prise each an elastic strip l2 which extends from
sides of the corset member just described have
the top to the bottom of the corset member andis
The‘center panel 20 of- the front of thecorset
member extends upwardly above the panels 224-22
and is formed‘on. its upper margin with curves
40 which terminate centrally in 'a point lying be
tween the breasts‘. This upper margin of the
panel‘is attached to the bottom of the breast
pockets, later to be described, by suitable stitch 10
stitched to the fabric panel l l of the back, and a
fabric strip 13 which is stitched on the one side
to the elastic strip ll. One of the side‘portions
is stitched to the front of the corset member, and
the other is provided with a reenforced under
10 lying and projecting band M to constitute the fas
tening edge of the corset member, eyes l5—l5
being provided at suitable intervals along the
edge of the fabric strip l3, the particular gar
ment shown being a side opening garment.
The‘ front of the corset member'comprises a
center panel of fabric 20 conveniently made of
two vertical strips as illustrated, permanently
stitched together and at the bottom provided with
a triangular elastic gusset 2| extending approxi
20 mately one-third of the distance from the bot
15
tom to the waistline. The center panel at the
top merges into and comprises the lower center
part of the brassiere'member. On each side of
the center panel is another panel of fabric 22
which is ?rmly stitched to the center panel on the
one side.
On the other side one of the said
panels 22 is stitched to the fabric side strip I3
as just above stated, and the other, of said pan
els 272 provided with an underlying band 23 to
30' which is attached the hooks 24 which cooperate
with the eyes I5—l5 in fastening and unfasten
ing the corset member.
The seams by which the various portions of the
corset member are attached together are bound
35 with tape when desired in the usual manner, and
there is a binding of tape along the top and
bottom of the fabric portions.
.
' .
The stocking supporters 30 are attached to the
bottom of the corset member in connection with
the binding, two at the back, two at the front,
and one oneach side.
The upper part of the corset member above
the waistline b—>b, though following present
day manufacturing practice, differs radically‘
from other garments known to me. While its
construction and form are such as to cooperate
with the brassiere member 'of the garment in af
fording the support to the back of the wearer
and in maintaining its proper contour. as above"
set forth, the back portion of the corset member
their edges suitably bound as is desired.‘ ‘
mg_
,
,
.
.
'
.
The corset member is preferably provided with
adequate boning to reenforce the supporting and
figure-forming functions of the garment as va
whole. Whilethe amount'of boning is somewhat‘ 15
dependent on the ‘design and size of the garment,
the preferred boning in.the style of garment
shown in Figs. 1» to 9, inclusive, is as illustrated.
In the back portion of the corset member at'the
extreme edge of the'panels I l~where the back 20
portion is joined to the side portions,‘ the bones‘
45-—d5 are placed. At the extreme edges of
the center panel H! where that panel is attached
to the panels II the bones 46—46 are placed.
These bones 45 and 46 extend downwardly par 25
tially ‘to overlie the buttocks but the bones 45
for comfort in side bending may not, extend
downwardly to quite the distance of the bones 46.
At the top the bones 45 and 46 extend to as near
the top 'of' the back portion of the corset mem
ber as is practical. The boning in the front
comprises the two bones 41—41. which are
mounted one on each side of the vertical central
line of thecenter panel 20 about midway between
that line and the outeredges of the panel. These 35
bones extend downwardly to a linesu?iciently
above‘ the groin to avoid discomfort in sitting’
and walking and upwardly to a line approximate:
ly joining the upper edges of- the front panels
22—22 at their. junction with the center panel.
The conventional bone pockets are provided on
the inner side of the corset member for the bones
above speci?ed, andthe bones are preferably sus
pended in these pockets by'stitching 50 across
tape‘ 5| ?rmly attached to the upper extremity
of vthe bones;
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' >
'
45'
The brassiére member
“The brassierememb'er C'comprise‘s in fr'ontv the ,
avoid lateral pressure from the corset member
breast pockets'?llof conventional two-ply woven 50'
material, such as nettingand lace; given the de
sired shape and contour. by cutting and tape in the
itself across the breasts and the upper chest wall’
immediately beneath the breasts.
usual way, and a back band of fabric 62 attachedv
to the sides‘ of the breast pockets which embraces
In furtherance of the avoiding ofsuch lateral‘
pressure, the upwardly extending portion of the
back is centrally provided with a notch 35 and
the sides of the corset member (the two strips,
the‘ sides: and back of the ?gure. and encircles the 55
upper part of the back and side portions of the
corset memberin both sitting‘and standing p'osi
one of elastic l2 and theother of fabric l3 com
prising each side) are cut away downwardly as at
36 from their upper point of attachment to the
back to points below the line of the chest wall
_ The back band62 is preferably made to con
form to the lines of the ?gure of the wearer at the 60
is so related to the front portion thereof as to
immediately beneath the breasts.
From the
junction of the front portion of the corset mem
65 ber with the fabric strips l3 of theside portions
'
i
tionsgof the wearer.‘
back and sides when the wearer is in correct‘posi
tion, slightly idealized when desired or necessary.
This ?ttingand conformation. of the back band
ordinarily requires the making of‘ the same from a
number of pieces of material.
il1ustrated,~that 65
(by stitching on the one side and by the hook - part coinciding with the back of the corset mem
and eye attachment means on the other), the
front panels 22 slope upwardly as at 38 to their
point of attachment to the center paneli2ll.
70; The upwardly extending portion of the back of
the corset member terminates in the lower dorsal
or thoracic vertebral region of the back, slightly
aboveithe midway line between the tip of the ilia
and the lower margin of the scapulae, as above
.
75. set forth.
ber is formed of two fabric pieces‘ 63, preferably
tapering down from the sides and suitably stitched
along their edges ‘at the middle: and bound ‘as
illustrated. That partof the back band which 00 70
incides with the sides‘ of the corset member com¢ , '
prises fabric strips 64 and triangular gussets of
elastic 6.5 with the base of the'trianglesa't th‘e" '
bottom ‘of’: substantially ‘the same dimension'asv
the width'fof the elastic side strips [2 at the top.
75. .
2,131,707;
These side pieces 64 are attached to the back por
tions of the back band and to the breast pockets
by stitching and taping in the'usual way. The
conventional shoulder straps 16 which are at
tached to the top of the brassiere portion at suit
able points.
'
-
.
‘
side pieces 64 at the front extend below the breast
Loose motion connection of corset and brassié're
Lil 1 pockets vertically and to these lower extensions
member
are attached forwardly extending fabric pieces
66 (conveniently termed “frontal side fabric por-_
When the garment is not being worn the back
tions”) which overlie the panels 22 of the corset band of the brassiere member is quite likely to be
member and have their inner ends attached to the moved so completely out of position that time is
edges of the center panel 20 by suitable stitching" wasted and the patience tried in putting the gar 10
and their upper margins (curved to constitute ment on- unless additional means are providedv
lateral extensions of the curves '40) attached to for fastening the back band of the brassiere to
the bottom of the breast pockets by suitable the corset member, and to this end I provide a
stitching. Between the front edges of the exten
loose motion connection between them. A suit
15 sions 64 the lower part of the brassiére member able, loose. motion connection for this purpose
is completed by the upper portion of the corset comprises on each side a strip of tape 79 which is
member panel 20, as above explained.
fastened to the top of the corset member to over
The brassiére member’is illustrated as side lie a considerableportion of the back panel .H
opening in the same manner as the corset mem
and elastic strip l2, beneath which is threaded a
.- ber. One of the side members 64 at its outer edge cooperating tape 80 which is fastened to the back 20
is provided with a reenforced underlying and band at the bottom near the elastic gusset 65 and
projecting band I 4' to constitute one of the fas
extends diagonally forward to about the- top of
said elastic gusset where it is again fastened.
tening edges of the brassiere member, eyes l5’ be
ing provided at suitable intervals along the edge
Operation
25; of the fabric'strip. The cooperating hooks 24'
In addition to the waistline of the garment 25
are attached to the edge of the correspondingly
b—b\ above referredto, in taking the photographs
located breast pocket 60 and forwardly extend
ing piece 66, suitably reenforced. The hook and from which the ?rst seven ?gures are made, the
eye opening of the brassiere member is for con
30, venience preferably on the same side as the hook
and eye opening of the corset member, but slight
1y to one side or the other thereof to avoid super~
imposition of the reinforcements and hooks and
eyes. _ In the garment shown the opening of the
351 brassiere member lies slightly to the rear of the
opening in the corset member. For convenience .
the line of opening of the corset member is desig
nated by the reference numeral 68 and the line
of opening of the brassiere member by the refer;
40 ence numeral 69.
Pivotal attachment of corset and brassiére mem-f
her
The pivoting of the brassiere member of the
45 garment to the corset member to accommodate
the slight drooping forward of the shoulders and
the tilting of the bustline in sitting position is il
lustrated at the bottom of the side portions of
the back band of the brassiere member, which is
. there fastened to‘the sides of the corset member
above the waistline in suitable manner to provide
for a tilting of the brassiere member about this
fastening as is required. As constructed in the
garment of Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive (see Fig. 9), this
' fastening means comprises two loops of tape,the
one 12 being suitably attached to’ the lower edge
of the .side strip 64 of the brassiére back band,
the other 13 being suitably attached to the upper
edge of the fabric strip I 3 of the side of the corset
60 member, the said loops of tape encircling a metal
lic ring 14. This form of pivotal fastening is op
tional. Any suitable pivotal‘connection may be
employed, as, for example, a single strong piece
of tape such as illustrated in the form of garment
shown in Figs. 2a and 3a, later to be described.
'The pivotal attachment of the back band’ of the
brassiere member to the corset member at its
sides comprises the only functional fastening of
the back band to the corset member, and while
70 affording the requisite relative movement between
the brassiere member and the ‘corset member for
the purposes herein set forth also serves as a
means for maintaining the back band and corset
member together in their relative positions,.what
75 ever the posture.“ Cooperating with thisare the
dot and dash line d shown in Figs. ,4, 6 and 7 was
drawn on the corset member of the garment to
mark the lower edge of the back band in stand
ing position of the wearer. These lines will be re
ferred to in describing the operation of the
garment.
>
,
Assuming that the garment is properly donned
by the wearer and that the wearer is in standing 35
position as shown in the ?rst three ?gures of the
drawings, the corset member of the garment, with
its boning reenforcement above described, and
the form-?tted brassiere member closely embrac-l
ing the upper part of the corset memberrwith its. 40
overlapping portions, offer a support for the ?g- '
ure which tends to enforce the correct standing
posture both respecting thelumbar curve and the
position of the upper back and shoulders. The
breasts are held high and comfortably supported
and the breastline as above de?ned is horizontal.
The unbroken support of the corset member at
the back extending as hereillustrated to a posi
tion slightly above the midway line between the
50
upper ends of the ilia and the lower margin of
the scapulae and completely covering the region
of the lumbarzcurve ‘cooperates with the back’
band of the brasslere member in the easy main~
tenance of this correct standing position.
As the wearer leans forward in passing through
the series of posturesifrom a standing position to
a sitting position, the back departs but slightly
from its contour in standing position, as the for
ward inclination in assuming the sitting position 60
is primarily about the hip joints. Whatever devi
ation'there may be, however, from the contour
of theback in standing position is provided for by
the tilting‘movement- of the brassiere member
about its pivotal .mounting 'l4—'l4.
65
When the wearer assumes sitting position, how
ever, .on the one hand, the slight drooping for
ward of the shoulders and the tilting downward
of the bustline is accompanied by a pivotal move
ment of the brassiere member around its pivotal 70
points of attachment to the corset member, and
on the other hand, the muscular extension of the
buttocks draws downwardly the corset member
at the back beyond the pivotal connection with
the brassiére member, so that from thispivotal 75.
2,131,707
out any “sliding of the brassiére member on the‘
'connection'to the‘ center vertical line‘of the gar
ment at the back there is an increasing relative
movement of the brassiere and corset ‘members,
the brassiere member moving upwardly and the
corset member moving downwardly. The tilting
skin of the wearer in properly ?tted garments;
and corset members of the garment are well illus-:
trated by a comparison of. Figs. 6 and 7. In Fig. '7
with the model maintaining her position of Fig. 6
the brassiere. member was‘ severed to the left 'of
the center'seam of the‘ back band as shown ‘at 90.
This immediately withdrew the effective support
of the breasts which 'forthwith‘sagged-or drooped 10
raising perceptibly the back band-of the brassiere
member ‘at the back by pulling upwardly on the
of the brassiere member about'its pivotal point
wherein in the sitting position in Fig. 4 the ‘hook
if) and eye line 69 of the brassiere member has taken
on a decided angular position in respect to the
substantially vertical hook and eye line 68 of the
corset member, these two lines being practically
parallel in the standing position of Fig. 3. The
15 drawing downward of ‘the corset member in sit
shoulder straps-there attached.
With'the sagging ' I
of the breasts‘, the ?gure itself sloped forwardly,
straightening-in large part the lumbar; curve so
that the back moved forwardly away fromthe
upper portions of the‘ corset member above the
waistline. The supporting function of the back '
of the garment above the waistline was completely
ting position is seen by a comparison of the waist
lines b of Figs. 3 and 4. The relative movement
of the brassiere and corset members in sitting
position is perhaps best illustrated by notingthe
destroyed and the graceful, hygienic posture of 20
20 position of the line 11 in Figs. 4 and 6 which as
just stated is coincident with the lower margin of
the brassiere member in the standing position of
,
_
The cooperative "functioning ;of the 'b'rassiére
of attachment with the corset member is well
illustrated by a comparison of Figs. 3 and 4
Figs. 2 and 3.
5 .
Fig. 6 was lost.
.
V
.
.
The elasticpor'tions of the garment illustrated
give ?exibility ,to the garment, add greatlyto the‘
'
comfort of the wearer and provide for a-freedom
of body'movement which is- consistent'with the 25
The pivotal movement of the brassiere about its
25 pivotal points of attachment, the drawing down
primary objects ‘and operation of this invention.
ward of the corset member, and the relative move
ment of the brassiére and corset members are
They may ‘or may not be present in their entirety
as desired. In the particular garment illustrated
eifected, however, without loss of support for the
breasts and the back in the lumbar region and in
30 the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region. On
the contrary, the breasts are supported in their
slightly lowered position with the downward tilt
ing of the bustline, the degree of curvature of the
lumbar region proper to sitting position is main
35 tained, and the torso is erect with no crowding
of the organs in their abdominal cavity. As seen
in Figs. 1 to 9,,inclusive, however, the placing of
the elastic gussets 65—65 preferably in line with 30
and above the elastic strips l2—l2v of the side of
the corset member is functional in‘ that on
stretching the fabric back 63-63 of the backhand
is maintainedin linewith the fabric back of the
corset member, which alignmenttends to prevent 35
any engagement of the parts which would inter
in Figs. 4 and 6, the back band of the brassiére . fere with or preclude the smooth‘ reciprocating
member still closely encircles the upper part of
the corset member and cooperates therewith in
40 maintaining a reenforced support to the very top
of the back and side portions of the corset mem
ber.
'
Furthermore, by reason primarily of the cut
vertical movement of the’ brassierei and corset
members.
'
-
'
;
The garment 'illustrated'in Figs. 2a and 3a, a 40
side opening garment, departs from the garment
illustrated in Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive, primarily in
the construction‘ of the sides and back, the front
of the garment being identical'with the front of
down upper borders 36 of the side panels, no lat
45 eral pressure is exerted on the chest wall immedi
the ?rst formrexc‘ept in the particulars now to be 45
referred’ tofthe difference being so minor and
ately below the breasts across the nerve center,
popularly referred to as the pit of the stomach,‘ readily described that no front View of the second ’
which would tend to cause the wearer to assume form of-lgarment is given. As to the front of the
a slouching position while sitting. The pivotal second formyof garment, Fig. 1 may, therefore, be
50 movement of the brassiere member provides for a conveniently considered'in connection with Figs. 50'
uniformity of support for the breasts and of pres
sure across the chest wall immediately beneath
The corset member A’ has a center panel 20’
which, like the center panel>20 of
is a two
the breasts, which would not be true if this sup
port and pressure were exerted by the corset piece panel provided at the bottom with a triangu- .
2a
55 member.
At the same time the snug ?tting of
the brassiere member about the ?gure and about
the upper portion of the corset member prevents
the possibility of the upper portion of the corset
member protruding rearwardly from the back of
the wearer should the wearer stoop forwardly
while sitting or standing.
"
'
'
In sitting from standing position the back band
of the brassiére member slides smoothly and with
out appreciable effort upward on the upper part
of the'back and sides of the corset member, but
never separates therefrom, always giving’ con
tinuity of support. In standing from sitting posi
and
3a.
.
-
'
.
,
g
>
i
'
.
lar insert like the-insert 2| of Fig. v1, and at the 55
top is merged into the lower central part of the
brassiére member C’ preferably without break in
the fabric, precisely asnshown in Fig. 1. The side
panels 22'tof ‘the front are identical with those of '
the garment of Fig. 1 at the bottom, but at the
top they continueupwardly to the lower border of
the breast pockets, 60', towhich they are attached '
by stitching in suitable manner, their upper parts,
therefore, merging into and forming the side
front parts‘ of the lower portion of the brassiere
member preferably ‘without break in the fabric.
the corset member, the parts assuming their cor
rect interrelation and positions illustrated in Figs.
The boning reenforcement in the front of the
corset member'of thej?rst form of garment may
be employed in'the second-form, The front of .70
the brassiére member has breast pockets 60? to
which are suitably attached shoulder straps 16',"
the breast pockets and shoulder straps being iden-V
1 and 3.
tical‘with those of the ?rst form.
tion this motion is reversed with the same
70 smoothness and without any displacement what
soever of the upper part of the back and sides of
This relative movement of the two con
76 stituent members of the garment ‘is‘eifected with
As is apparent '
from Figs. 2a‘ and.‘ 3a theulower part'of .the'75
' 6
2,131,707
brassiere member ‘does not have the forwardly
projecting pieces 66 of the form of Fig. 1.
.The sides of the garment illustrated in Figs. 2a
and 3a, like the sides of the ?rst form of garment
(see Figs. 2 and 3), are each formed with two ver
on each side. "This, however,‘ is purely a matter
of preference.
.
.
As to the brassiere member the back band 62'
at each side terminates at the rear edge of the
upward extensions of the side pieces I3’ to which
tical pieces l2’ and 13’. The'forward pieces’ 13’ - its side pieces 64' of fabric are attached by stitch
which are of fabric‘ di?er from the correspond
ing pieces [3 in the ?rst form in that they extend
preferably in unbroken structural line to the top
10 of the brassiere' member functionally merging.
into and forming a part of that member; The side
piece I3’ on one side is stitched to the side of its
corresponding front panel 22’ and breast pocket
69’ throughout its length. The side piece I3’ on
15 the other side'is provided with an underlying
band M’ from top'to bottom above which at the
edge of the side piece are attached eyes l5’ which
cooperate with hooks mounted on the underside
of the outer edges of the corresponding side piece
20 22' and the breast pocket 60', which edges are
reenforced with an underlying band, all as will
be understood from the more elaborate descrip
tion and showing of the similar parts of the ?rst
form of garment.
25
1'
'
The rearward pieces l2’ of the side of this gar
ment differ from the corresponding side pieces I 2
of the ?rst form in that they are of fabric rather
than of elastic and extend slightly further to the
back of the garment. The side pieces l2’ con
30 tinue upwardly above the waistline bwhere they
form‘ the side pieces of the upwardly extending
back portion of the corset membenbeing cut di
agonally downward from the top on each side as
indicated by the dotted line 33’ to points well
35 above the waistline but terminating suf?ciently
ing and tape in the usual manner. The back of
the brassiere member is formed. of two pieces of
fabric 63' stitched at their outer edges to the side
pieces 64' and to each other at the center, a tri 10
angular gusset 65' of elastic being provided mid
way at the top. The top line of the back band
which slopes gently downward from the sides
to the elastic gusset terminates in the lower
dorsal or thoracic vertebral region of the back
well above the top of the upwardly extending
back portion of the corset member. and slightly
higher than the back band of the ?rst form.
The lower line of the back band terminates well
above the waistline. Its center back portion is 20
curved gently upward and its side pieces extend
upward at quite a perceptible angle. The shoul
der straps 16' are suitably attached to the upper
edge of the back band of thebrassiere member.
The pivotal attachments of the back band of 25
the brassiére member to the corset member which
as heretofore stated are formed merely by the
two-ply tapes ‘M’ are placed slightly further to
the rear on each side thanare the pivotal attach
ments of the ?rst form. - The tapes 14’ are at
30
tached to the back band as here shown spanning
the seams between the side pieces, 64’ and the
back pieces 63'.
r
‘The second form of garment may be provided
with a loose motion attachment between the 35
below the chest wall immediately beneath the - corset and brassiére member similar to that (19,
breasts so that no pressure islthere exerted by the
corset member itself. As illustrated in Figs. .2a
and 3a these side pieces l2’ for purposes of proper
?tting may be formed of two pieces stitched to
gether on the diagonal across the waistline where
they form-a suitable attachment means for the
double ply pivoting tapes ‘Ill/‘which replace the
tapes 72,13 and the link 14 of the ?rst form illus
trated in detail in Fig. 9. At the bottom and to
the rear of each of the side pieces l2’. there are
triangular inserts of elastic l2".
'
The back of the corset member is substantially
identical with that of the ?rst form, being com
posed of a center panel ‘l0’ to each side of which
are the panels H’. These panels areof fabric
and extend from the bottom of the corset to the
top of the upwardly extending portion of the back
which is substantially of the same shape and pro
55
portion as the upwardly extendingback portion
of the ?rst form. The reenforcing boning 45'
and 46’ of the second form corresponds in method
and place of attachment, form and size with the
boning 45 and 46 of the ?rst form. The center
piece Ill’ and side pieces H’ are, however, some
what narrower than those of the ?rst form due
to the fact that the side pieces l2’ extend further
to the rear than the side pieces l2 'of the ?rst
form. Furthermore, the upwardlyextendingpore
65 tion of the back, while out slightly downward from
the'top of the side pieces l2’ toward the center
and not having the‘ distinctive notch 35 of the
?rst form, terminates above at substantially the
same distance from the waistline as the upwardly
70 extending back portion of the ?rst form.‘ The
back and side pieces are stitched together and
their margins bound with tape in the usual form
as will be readily understood.
In the secondform only four garters 30' are
illustrated, these being two in the front and one
80) employed in the ?rst form.
>
The back band of the brassiére member over
lies and cooperates with the upwardly extending
back portion ofthe corset in sitting, bending and
standing positions of'the wearer, and the entire
operation and functional performance of the
second form'of "garment is identical with that of
the ?rst form of garment. It is believed that this
operation and functional performance will be well 45
understood from the foregoing’ described opera
tion of the ?rst form of garment without repeti
tion.
a
»
a
'
While the pivotal connection of the back band
of the brassiere member to the back of the cor 50
set member in the second form is quite di?erent
from the pivotal attachment of the two members ~
in the ?rst form and the points of attachment
are located considerably closer to the back, the
pivotal action of the brassiere member in both $55
forms keeps the disconnected portion of the bras
siere member in position and assures the‘main
tenance of the bust in its normal position when
the wearer is standing, bending or sitting. It al
lows the breasts to droop normally as a result 01'
the relaxation of the muscles in_sitting position
and to return to their normal position when the
wearer resumes a standing posture without at any
time depriving the breasts of the desired support.
This pivotal action, together with the fact that 65
the breast pockets and the portion overlying the
diaphragm are structurally independent of the
back portion‘ of the corset member andnot sub
ject ‘to the pull and strain exerted upon the back
portion of the corset member through the various
changes of posture, is of great importance to the
wearer both from the standpoint of comfort and
artistic lines. This is particularly true during
any period of fashion such as obtains on the ?ling
date hereof, which demands the molded bust and 15
2,131,707
7
the uplift effect necessitating a very snug ?tting
broken lines over the region of the lumbar curve ,
garment under the breasts. ,
to,_a pointwell above the waistline insitting and
standing v‘positions and cooperating-with the
brassiére member in tending to maintain ,the
It should be apparent from the foregoing that
my invention is not limited to the foundation gar
ments herein above described either as to the
type of the garment or as to the details of con;
struction. The invention is, for example, very
lumbar curve in both these positions, the corset
member at the back having its side members cut
away‘ at the top to a point below the lower line
useful in garments embodying the improvements 7 of the breasts and the chest wall immediately be
’ r set forth in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,978,092,
neath thebreasts so that no lateral pressure is
10 granted October 23, 1934. The garments here exerted therefrom on the breasts and the chest ,10 ‘Y
shown were selected from a number 01' different wall immediately beneath‘ the breasts.
types embodying the invention because of their
4. In a foundation garment “for women, the
simplicity for illustrative purposes and no undue combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem
limitation should be deduced therefrom, but the
15 appended claims should be construed as broadl
as permissible in view of the prior art.
- i
Having thus described my invention, what I
claim is:
1. In a foundation garment for women, the
combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem
ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member
ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiére member
overlyingthe top of the corset member at the 15
sides, and, back thereof in sitting and standing“
positions of the wearer, the brassiere member
being permanently attached to the corset mem
ber at the front and being pivotally connected to
the corset member at the sides so that relative 26 ,
movement between the brassiere member and the ‘
overlying the top of the corset member at the
sides and back thereof in’ sitting and standing
positions of the wearer, the brassiere member
25 being permanently attached to the corset mem
ber at the front and being pivotally connected to
corset member about the pivotal mounting is pro
vided for to accommodate the relative lowering
of the breasts in sitting position, the corset mem
ber at theback extending .in vertical unbroken
the corset member at the sides so that relative
movement between the brassiere member and the
corset member about the pivotal mounting is pro
point well above the waistline in sitting and
lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a
'
2.5
standing positions and being there reenforced by
boning on each side of the center line of the corset
30 vided for to accommodate the relative lowering ‘ member which extends upwardly to substantially
of the breasts in sitting position, the corset mem
the upper margin of the back, the brassiere" “
ber at the back extending in vertical unbroken
lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a
point well above the waistline in sitting and
35 standing positions and cooperating with the bras
siere member in tending. to maintain thelumbar
curve in both these positions.
I‘
2. In a foundation garment for women, the
combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem
40 ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member
overlying the top of the corset member at the
sides and back thereof in sitting and standing
positions of the wearer, the brassiere member
being permanently attached to the corset member ,
45 at the front and being pivotally connected to the
corset member at the sides so that relative move
ment between the brassiére member and the
corset member about the pivotal mounting is pro
vided for to accommodate the relative lowering
of the breasts in sitting position, the corset mem
ber at the back extending in ‘vertical unbroken
lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a
point well above the waistline in sitting and
member cooperating with said. upwardly extend
ing portions of the corset’member at the back in
tendingto maintain the normal lumbar curva
ture in both sitting and standing positions,‘ the 35
brassiére member-holding the upwardly extend- “
ing portion of the corset member atrthe back
snugly against the body of the wearer in stand‘
ing, bending and sitting positions‘ and thereby '
maintaining smooth unbroken lines and prevent
ing the said upwardly extending portions of the
corset member from protruding from the back of
the wearer.
'
5. In a foundation garment for women, the
combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem 45
ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member
overlying the top of the corset member at the
sides and back thereof in sitting and'standing
positions of the wearer, the brassiére member be
ing permanently attached to the corset member 50 I
at the front and being pivotally connected to the
corset member at the sides so that relative move
ment between the brassiere member and the cor
standing positions and cooperating with the set member about the pivotal mou'nting is pro
brassiere member in tending to maintain the‘ vided for to accommodate the relative lowering 55
lumbar curve in both these positions, the corset of the breasts in sitting position, the corsetmem
member above the waistline being so constructed ber at the back comprising a center panel and'
as to its upwardly extending portion at the sides two side panels stitched to the 'center panel one
on each side thereof all extending'in unbroken
and back that no lateral pressure is exerted there
60 from on the breasts and chest wall immediately vertical lines over the region of the lumbar curve
to a point well above the waistline in sitting and
beneath the breasts.
3. In a foundation garment for women, the
combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem
ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiére member
65 overlying the top of the corset member at the
sides and back thereof in sitting and standing
positions of the wearer, the brassiere member
being permanently attached to the corset mem
ber at the front and being pivotally connected to
70 the corset member at the sides so that relative
movement between the brassiére member and the
corset member about the pivotal mounting is
provided for to accommodate the relative lower
ing of the breasts in sitting position, the corset
75 member at the back extending in vertical un
standing positions, boning positioned along the
outer margin of the said center panel and along
the outer margin of the said side panels and. ex
tending upwardly to substantially the upper mar 65
gin of the back, the sides of the corset member
adjoining and being attached to the back thereof ~
being cutaway ‘from the top‘ downward to points
located below the chest wall immediately beneath
the breasts, the said boning reenforcing the un 70
broken vertical support of the back over the
region of the lumbar curve, the cut away portions 7
of the back and sides at the top preventing lateral ,
pressure being exerted by the corset member
across the breasts and chest wall immediately be
75
8
2,131,707 a
neath the breasts, the corset member at the back
suitably» attached thereto, at the sidesitoward the
above the waistline cooperating with the brassiére '
member in tending to maintain the lumbar curve
front frontal side fabric‘ portions suitably at-,
tached at their top edges to the breast pockets
and at their frontedges'to said subtending fabric
in both sitting and standing’positions.
6. In a foundation garment for women, the
combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem
ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiére member
it)
overlying the top of the corset member at the
sides and back thereof in sitting and standing
positions of the wearer, the brassiere member
comprising breast pockets and a back band ex
tending around the sides and: back of the wearer,
the corset member at the front having acenter
panel extending continuously upward to the lower
margin of the breast pockets, the back band of
the brassiére member having forwardly extending
portions which at the top are attached to the
lower extremity of the breast pockets and in the
front are attached to the upwardly extending
20 center panel of the corset member, means for piv
otally attaching the back band of the brassiere
member to the sides of the corset member ‘above
the waistline so that relative movement between
portion and having their bottom edges overlap
ping and relatively movable in respect to the cor
set member in standing, bending and sitting posi
tions, said subtending' fabric portion comprising
‘an upwardly'extending portion of the front of the
corset member, and at the sides toward the back 1o
and at the back a back band comprising side por
tions suitably attached to the said frontal side
portions and a back panel connecting said back
band side portions; the corset member at the back
extending upward in vertical unbroken lines over 15
the region of the lumbar ‘curve to points well
above the waistline in the dorsal or thoracic
vertebral region in standing, bending and sitting
positions and being cut away at the sides to a
point below the lower line of the breasts and the '20
chest wall'immediately beneath the breasts so
that no lateral pressure is exerted by the corset 7
member on the breasts and the chest wall im
the brassiére member and the corset member
mediately beneath the breasts; the back band of
25 about the pivotal mounting is provided for to
the brassiere member being pivotally attached to
accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts
in sitting position, the corset member atthe back
extending in vertical unbroken lines over the
the corset member at the sides at points back of
the said frontal side portions and overlapping the
"25
upwardly extending back portion of the corset
member in standing, bending and sitting posi
tions; the brassiére member cooperating with the
region of the lumbar curve to points well above’
the waistline in sitting and standing positions and
cooperating with the bras‘siere member.’ in tend
ing to maintain the'lumbar curve in-both these
in standing, bending and sitting positions without
positions.
subjecting the breasts to pull or stress; the con- > ‘
-
'
'
a
'7. In a foundation garment for women, the
combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem
ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member;
the brassiére member comprising in the front
breast pockets and a subtending fabric portion
corset member in maintaining the lumbar curve
struction and arrangement of the parts being
such as to afford the breasts support ‘and to tend r
to maintain them in normal-position in standing,
bending and sitting.
_
,
'
JOSEPH LEONARD.
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