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Sept. 27, 1938. _ ‘ ' J. LEONARD FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Filed Sept. 30, 1936 2,131,707 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 ZZ YINVENTOR. Joseph Lea/7dr BY A TTORNEYS. Sept. 27,_ 1938. J. LEbNARD 2,131,707 FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN’ 'Filed Sept. 30, 1936 ' 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 - iNVENToR. ' Jaseph z eonard ATTORNEYS Sept. 27, 1938. J_ LEONARD I 2,131,707 FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Filed Sept. 30,_ 1936 6 Sheets-She'et 5 INVENTOR ' Joseph Lea/70rd BY vATTORNEYS Sept. 27, 1938. ' J. LEONARD _ 2,131,707 FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Filed Sept. 30, 1956 6 Sheets-Sheet ‘4 INVENTOR; Jasep/r Lea/74rd ATTORNEYS ' Sept. 27, 1938. .1. LEONARD 2,131,707 FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Filed Sept. 30, 1936 '6 Sheets-Sheet 5 ' 1NVENTOR. Joseph Lea/Yard 5Y7: ‘"wwg’? ' ATTORNEYS Sept. 27; 1938'. J; LEONARD ’ 2,131,707 FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOMEN Filed Sept. 30, 1956 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR. _ Joseph Lea/74rd BY I ATTORNEYS. 2,131,707? Patented Sept. 27, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT. orrlcn 2,131,707 - . FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR WOME Joseph Leonard, Allentown, Pa., assignor to Charis Corporation, New York, N. Y., a cor poration of New York . -~ ‘ Application September so, 1936, Serial No; 103,245 " 7 Claims. (Cl. 2-30) Coincident with the slightv drooping forward This invention relates to foundation garments for women wherein such support is given to the ?gure that its graceful and hygienic line of con tour is maintained in sitting as well as in stand 5 ing position. 7' ’ While the normal inward curve of the back at the waistline is one of the characteristics of the ?gure which gives grace and beauty, its impor tance to health is so well recognized in the medi 10 cal profession that it is stressed even in the ' most elemental ‘textbooks on physiology. The slouching sitting posture with the lumbar curve straightened or reversed not only tends to bring about or prolong many of the spinal and sacroiliac 16 ailments arising from misplacement of the bony structure with the nervous disorders incidental thereto, but is likely to result in organic troubles perhaps more especially with women than with 20» of the shoulders and the tilting downward of the bustline in sitting position the muscular structure of the buttocks and lower back is con siderably extended both vertically and laterally. Present-day corsets for the most part extend well below the buttocks with the boning curved in wardly at the bottom, and in assuming a sitting position this muscular extension pulls down wardly the corset along the waistline and upper 10 back, causes an unhygienic and discomforting pressure on the breasts and tends to prevent’the normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders . and the tilting downward of the bustline as above set forth. ‘ ' -? ~ . , 7 One of the objects of this'in'vention is to pro vide for the drawing down of the corset in assum ing sitting position without interfering with the men. normal slight drooping forward of the shoulders - One of the objects of this invention is to pro vide a foundation garment which tends to pre4 vent a slouching position in sitting and to main doing to construct the garment insuch away 20 and the tilting down of the bustline and in so‘ tain the lumbar curve in both standing and sit as to tend to maintain thelumbar curve in both standing and sitting positions as heretofore '. ting positions while at the same time serving its referred to. 25 purpose as a foundation ‘garment in giving to the ?gure or maintaining therein lines of grace and beauty to accord with artistic requirements. In sitting position there occurs a relaxation of certain of the shoulder and chest muscles sup 30 porting the upper ribs and shoulder blades and of the so-called skin muscles (platysma myoides) extending downwardly from the neck which con tribute to thesupport of the breasts. This re laxation causes a slight drooping forward of the shoulders and a tilting downward of the bustline (the horizontal line from the tip of the breasts back through the'?gure) in sitting position. ' ' _ ' ; ‘ Another object'of this invention is, while pre 25 serving and providing for the objects heretofore speci?ed, to provide a boning reenforcement of the garment structure at the back whioh'will bridge the waistline and will tend to keep they 7 lower part of the shoulders in vertical alignment 30' with the rearward extremities ofthe buttocks.‘ Further objects of’ this invention will become apparent without speci?c mention'as the disclo sure In hereof‘proc'eeds. carrying out the objects ‘ of _- the ' invention I have developed a - novel combination corset brassiere in which what may be‘termed the corset member terminates in the front and sides slightly One of the objects of this invention is to pro vide a support for the breasts which will permit of below the lower borderlineof the. breasts and in 40 this normal slight drooping forward of the shoul ‘the back extends‘to a position well above the‘ waistline and preferably to a 'line'approximately ders and tilting downward of the bustline in sit midway between the top of the ilia and the lower ting position and which will at the same time co operate with the other features of the foundation margin- of the scapulae, with‘variations prefer-' 45 garment in maintaining the lumbar curve. The normalv slight drooping forward of the shoulders in sitting position where a corset of the ordinary type is worn, especially if the corset is provided with boning, results in the upper rear edge of the corset protruding and breaking 50 the line of the outer garments in a very un sightly manner. One of the objects of this invention is to pro vide a structure which prevents the rearward protrusion of the top of the garment when the 55 wearer is in sitting position. ably above thattline rather than below it. The corset member atthefback is preferably. pro-L vided with boning which spansrthe waistline and extends upward substantiallyvto the top edge of the back portion. The back portion is, however, so constructed as to exert-little or'no pressure‘ laterally on the breasts or across the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts. - T 50' ‘ vThe brassiere member» of the garment encircles ., the body with its lower border likewise well above, the waistline. It overlaps the back of thecorset; member in both ‘standing. and sittingrpositionsi ‘ 2 2,131,707 of the wearer and has vertical movement relative to the back portion of the corset member to accommodate the various postures of the body so that the upper portion of the back in the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region is sup ported in proper position bythe cooperative ac tion of both the brassiére and corset members. In the front the brassiere member is provided above with the usual breast ' pockets, beneath 10 which it encompasses the upper part of the dia phragm and the region immediately below the breasts. In the drawings which form a part of this application, I have illustrated two forms of com bination corset brassiéres embodying the various characteristics of my invention above set forth. The drawings, however, are intended for illus trativepurpose only and no limitations on the invention should be construed. therefrom either in respect to the details of construction of the two particular garments shown or as to those garments as types. In these drawings,— 10 _ “Figure 1 is a front elevation of one form of In‘point of structure in the front the " garment embodying my invention-with the wearer brassiére member may conveniently be made in- - iii-standing position; i tegral with the corset member and this unity of _ Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the garment of Fig. structure may or may not characterize the side portions of the brassiére member and corset member toward the front. In either event, piv otal connections are provided between the bras siére member and the corset member, one on 20 each side at the bottom of the brassiere mem-' ber either at the, sides of; the ‘garment or slightly to the rear thereof,_depending on the points of permanent attachment of; the brassiére member to the corset member. It is about these pivotal 25 connections that the brassiere member moves in accommodating itself to the various positions of the breasts and, body, in standing, bending and sitting; and it is by reason of these pivotal con-» nections that the brassiére ‘and corset members 30 are maintained in their proper relation regard . less of the position of the'body. The brassiere member is provided with shoulder straps in the usual manner. - The structure and proportions of the parts are 36 such that in standing and sitting positions and in the various postures‘ in going from ‘the, one position to the other, the support of the founda tion garment as a vwhole is continuous and un broken, and whileQthe ‘brassierej, member tilts 40 about its pivotal attachments in accommodating the'various positions and postures of the body, this support of the foundation’garment is not lessenedor weakened thereby. > ~ I am well aware that combination corset bras 45 siéres as such are very old in ‘the art'which fur nishes many examples of foundation garments of this general classi?cation which are divided across the front or across the back or both. These prior art garments, however, in, no case known to 50 me accomplish the objects-above set forth, nor are they characterized by the structure‘v of my invention hereinabove generally explained. In many cases-the corset member terminated ap— proximately at or below the‘ waistline so that 55 there was a break in the support for» the back of the wearer at the point where the support is‘ most needed, from the standpoint 'ofboth proper' posture and good lines. If boning were employed‘ the upper ends of the boning tended 'toipress into 60 the back of the wearer and cause great-discom fort. The tilting of the bustline' on assuming‘ sitting position in its relation to the lumbar curve‘ was‘apparently never before appreciated in cor-V 1, with the wearer in standing position; . Fig. 2a is a view corresponding with Fig. 2 and :shows in rear elevation the second form of gar ment embodying my invention hereinbefore re ferredto; and Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the garment of Fig. 20 l, withthe wearer in'standing position and with the upper arms of the wearer in substantially horizontal position; , ‘Fig. 3a is a view corresponding with Fig. 3 and shows in side elevation the garment of Fig. 2a. Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the garment of Fig. 1-, with the wearer sitting and with the upper arms of the wearer in the position of Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is ‘a front elevation of the garment of Fig. 1-, with the wearerin sitting positionrand 30 the arms relaxed in substantially vertical posi tion; 1 - >7 > j - . I Fig. 6 is a perspective of the garment of Fig. 1, showing a rear side viewwith the wearer in sit-r ting position and the arms relaxed with the hands resting on the knees; V V ‘Fig. '7 is aview similar to Fig. 6 with the bras~ siere member of the garment of Fig. 1 cut apart vertically near the center line of the back to show the upper part of the corset member and toillustrate the failure of support afforded by the upper 'part of the corset member in the ab sence of the‘cooperating action of the brassiére member; ' ’ ' Fig. 8 _is an elevational view of the garment 45 modeled in the ?rst seven ?gures opened out and showing the interior of the garment; ' Fig.‘9 is 'adetailed View‘ illustrating the par» ticular type of pivotal connection between the brassiére member and the corset member em ployed in the garment of Fig. 1; 50 The standing ?gures in the front and rear views are turned slightly to the side for clearness of illustration. ‘ ' Referring'more particularly to the drawings, 55 the garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to‘ 9, inclusive, and its operation-will ?rst be described in vdetail. The corset member The corset member A in general construction 60 follows more or less conventional lines except as to its upper portion above the waistline indi-' cated by the dot and dash line b—b. Thus, the set‘ construction, with the result that the bras-z V corset member is composed of a series of strips of fabric and elastic sewed together and bound 65 65 siére member was either ?rmly attached to the corset member throughout the 'front- and side por tions of the corset well" toward the back thereof, so that the‘ pivotal movement above set forth was impossible, or ‘was'merely attached 'to-the 70 front of the‘corset' member with" the back of the with taping as is customary in the modern art of corsetry, with stocking supporters attached to the lower border and being sufficiently long to en compass the buttocks and the upper portion of the thighs, so that ,in sitting position the corset brassiére' member having "no ‘functional relation‘ member extends forwardly beyond the points of the ischia and is ?rmly maintained in position theback portion ‘of the corset member. My in-' by the weight of the wearer; vention' should not, therefore; be confused with More particularly, the back of the corset mem .75 1 the‘examples of the prior'art just set forth. ber is formed with a center panel of fabric Ill and 75 whatever with the'supporting characteristics of 3.. 2,131,707 two side panels ll—il ?rmly stitchedthereto. ‘TheYcut aw'ay fabric portions of the back and‘ The side‘ portions. of the corset member com prise each an elastic strip l2 which extends from sides of the corset member just described have the top to the bottom of the corset member andis The‘center panel 20 of- the front of thecorset member extends upwardly above the panels 224-22 and is formed‘on. its upper margin with curves 40 which terminate centrally in 'a point lying be tween the breasts‘. This upper margin of the panel‘is attached to the bottom of the breast pockets, later to be described, by suitable stitch 10 stitched to the fabric panel l l of the back, and a fabric strip 13 which is stitched on the one side to the elastic strip ll. One of the side‘portions is stitched to the front of the corset member, and the other is provided with a reenforced under 10 lying and projecting band M to constitute the fas tening edge of the corset member, eyes l5—l5 being provided at suitable intervals along the edge of the fabric strip l3, the particular gar ment shown being a side opening garment. The‘ front of the corset member'comprises a center panel of fabric 20 conveniently made of two vertical strips as illustrated, permanently stitched together and at the bottom provided with a triangular elastic gusset 2| extending approxi 20 mately one-third of the distance from the bot 15 tom to the waistline. The center panel at the top merges into and comprises the lower center part of the brassiere'member. On each side of the center panel is another panel of fabric 22 which is ?rmly stitched to the center panel on the one side. On the other side one of the said panels 22 is stitched to the fabric side strip I3 as just above stated, and the other, of said pan els 272 provided with an underlying band 23 to 30' which is attached the hooks 24 which cooperate with the eyes I5—l5 in fastening and unfasten ing the corset member. The seams by which the various portions of the corset member are attached together are bound 35 with tape when desired in the usual manner, and there is a binding of tape along the top and bottom of the fabric portions. . ' . The stocking supporters 30 are attached to the bottom of the corset member in connection with the binding, two at the back, two at the front, and one oneach side. The upper part of the corset member above the waistline b—>b, though following present day manufacturing practice, differs radically‘ from other garments known to me. While its construction and form are such as to cooperate with the brassiere member 'of the garment in af fording the support to the back of the wearer and in maintaining its proper contour. as above" set forth, the back portion of the corset member their edges suitably bound as is desired.‘ ‘ mg_ , , . . ' . The corset member is preferably provided with adequate boning to reenforce the supporting and figure-forming functions of the garment as va whole. Whilethe amount'of boning is somewhat‘ 15 dependent on the ‘design and size of the garment, the preferred boning in.the style of garment shown in Figs. 1» to 9, inclusive, is as illustrated. In the back portion of the corset member at'the extreme edge of the'panels I l~where the back 20 portion is joined to the side portions,‘ the bones‘ 45-—d5 are placed. At the extreme edges of the center panel H! where that panel is attached to the panels II the bones 46—46 are placed. These bones 45 and 46 extend downwardly par 25 tially ‘to overlie the buttocks but the bones 45 for comfort in side bending may not, extend downwardly to quite the distance of the bones 46. At the top the bones 45 and 46 extend to as near the top 'of' the back portion of the corset mem ber as is practical. The boning in the front comprises the two bones 41—41. which are mounted one on each side of the vertical central line of thecenter panel 20 about midway between that line and the outeredges of the panel. These 35 bones extend downwardly to a linesu?iciently above‘ the groin to avoid discomfort in sitting’ and walking and upwardly to a line approximate: ly joining the upper edges of- the front panels 22—22 at their. junction with the center panel. The conventional bone pockets are provided on the inner side of the corset member for the bones above speci?ed, andthe bones are preferably sus pended in these pockets by'stitching 50 across tape‘ 5| ?rmly attached to the upper extremity of vthe bones; - ' > ' 45' The brassiére member “The brassierememb'er C'comprise‘s in fr'ontv the , avoid lateral pressure from the corset member breast pockets'?llof conventional two-ply woven 50' material, such as nettingand lace; given the de sired shape and contour. by cutting and tape in the itself across the breasts and the upper chest wall’ immediately beneath the breasts. usual way, and a back band of fabric 62 attachedv to the sides‘ of the breast pockets which embraces In furtherance of the avoiding ofsuch lateral‘ pressure, the upwardly extending portion of the back is centrally provided with a notch 35 and the sides of the corset member (the two strips, the‘ sides: and back of the ?gure. and encircles the 55 upper part of the back and side portions of the corset memberin both sitting‘and standing p'osi one of elastic l2 and theother of fabric l3 com prising each side) are cut away downwardly as at 36 from their upper point of attachment to the back to points below the line of the chest wall _ The back band62 is preferably made to con form to the lines of the ?gure of the wearer at the 60 is so related to the front portion thereof as to immediately beneath the breasts. From the junction of the front portion of the corset mem 65 ber with the fabric strips l3 of theside portions ' i tionsgof the wearer.‘ back and sides when the wearer is in correct‘posi tion, slightly idealized when desired or necessary. This ?ttingand conformation. of the back band ordinarily requires the making of‘ the same from a number of pieces of material. il1ustrated,~that 65 (by stitching on the one side and by the hook - part coinciding with the back of the corset mem and eye attachment means on the other), the front panels 22 slope upwardly as at 38 to their point of attachment to the center paneli2ll. 70; The upwardly extending portion of the back of the corset member terminates in the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region of the back, slightly aboveithe midway line between the tip of the ilia and the lower margin of the scapulae, as above . 75. set forth. ber is formed of two fabric pieces‘ 63, preferably tapering down from the sides and suitably stitched along their edges ‘at the middle: and bound ‘as illustrated. That partof the back band which 00 70 incides with the sides‘ of the corset member com¢ , ' prises fabric strips 64 and triangular gussets of elastic 6.5 with the base of the'trianglesa't th‘e" ' bottom ‘of’: substantially ‘the same dimension'asv the width'fof the elastic side strips [2 at the top. 75. . 2,131,707; These side pieces 64 are attached to the back por tions of the back band and to the breast pockets by stitching and taping in the'usual way. The conventional shoulder straps 16 which are at tached to the top of the brassiere portion at suit able points. ' - . ‘ side pieces 64 at the front extend below the breast Loose motion connection of corset and brassié're Lil 1 pockets vertically and to these lower extensions member are attached forwardly extending fabric pieces 66 (conveniently termed “frontal side fabric por-_ When the garment is not being worn the back tions”) which overlie the panels 22 of the corset band of the brassiere member is quite likely to be member and have their inner ends attached to the moved so completely out of position that time is edges of the center panel 20 by suitable stitching" wasted and the patience tried in putting the gar 10 and their upper margins (curved to constitute ment on- unless additional means are providedv lateral extensions of the curves '40) attached to for fastening the back band of the brassiere to the bottom of the breast pockets by suitable the corset member, and to this end I provide a stitching. Between the front edges of the exten loose motion connection between them. A suit 15 sions 64 the lower part of the brassiére member able, loose. motion connection for this purpose is completed by the upper portion of the corset comprises on each side a strip of tape 79 which is member panel 20, as above explained. fastened to the top of the corset member to over The brassiére member’is illustrated as side lie a considerableportion of the back panel .H opening in the same manner as the corset mem and elastic strip l2, beneath which is threaded a .- ber. One of the side members 64 at its outer edge cooperating tape 80 which is fastened to the back 20 is provided with a reenforced underlying and band at the bottom near the elastic gusset 65 and projecting band I 4' to constitute one of the fas extends diagonally forward to about the- top of said elastic gusset where it is again fastened. tening edges of the brassiere member, eyes l5’ be ing provided at suitable intervals along the edge Operation 25; of the fabric'strip. The cooperating hooks 24' In addition to the waistline of the garment 25 are attached to the edge of the correspondingly b—b\ above referredto, in taking the photographs located breast pocket 60 and forwardly extend ing piece 66, suitably reenforced. The hook and from which the ?rst seven ?gures are made, the eye opening of the brassiere member is for con 30, venience preferably on the same side as the hook and eye opening of the corset member, but slight 1y to one side or the other thereof to avoid super~ imposition of the reinforcements and hooks and eyes. _ In the garment shown the opening of the 351 brassiere member lies slightly to the rear of the opening in the corset member. For convenience . the line of opening of the corset member is desig nated by the reference numeral 68 and the line of opening of the brassiere member by the refer; 40 ence numeral 69. Pivotal attachment of corset and brassiére mem-f her The pivoting of the brassiere member of the 45 garment to the corset member to accommodate the slight drooping forward of the shoulders and the tilting of the bustline in sitting position is il lustrated at the bottom of the side portions of the back band of the brassiere member, which is . there fastened to‘the sides of the corset member above the waistline in suitable manner to provide for a tilting of the brassiere member about this fastening as is required. As constructed in the garment of Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive (see Fig. 9), this ' fastening means comprises two loops of tape,the one 12 being suitably attached to’ the lower edge of the .side strip 64 of the brassiére back band, the other 13 being suitably attached to the upper edge of the fabric strip I 3 of the side of the corset 60 member, the said loops of tape encircling a metal lic ring 14. This form of pivotal fastening is op tional. Any suitable pivotal‘connection may be employed, as, for example, a single strong piece of tape such as illustrated in the form of garment shown in Figs. 2a and 3a, later to be described. 'The pivotal attachment of the back band’ of the brassiere member to the corset member at its sides comprises the only functional fastening of the back band to the corset member, and while 70 affording the requisite relative movement between the brassiere member and the ‘corset member for the purposes herein set forth also serves as a means for maintaining the back band and corset member together in their relative positions,.what 75 ever the posture.“ Cooperating with thisare the dot and dash line d shown in Figs. ,4, 6 and 7 was drawn on the corset member of the garment to mark the lower edge of the back band in stand ing position of the wearer. These lines will be re ferred to in describing the operation of the garment. > , Assuming that the garment is properly donned by the wearer and that the wearer is in standing 35 position as shown in the ?rst three ?gures of the drawings, the corset member of the garment, with its boning reenforcement above described, and the form-?tted brassiere member closely embrac-l ing the upper part of the corset memberrwith its. 40 overlapping portions, offer a support for the ?g- ' ure which tends to enforce the correct standing posture both respecting thelumbar curve and the position of the upper back and shoulders. The breasts are held high and comfortably supported and the breastline as above de?ned is horizontal. The unbroken support of the corset member at the back extending as hereillustrated to a posi tion slightly above the midway line between the 50 upper ends of the ilia and the lower margin of the scapulae and completely covering the region of the lumbarzcurve ‘cooperates with the back’ band of the brasslere member in the easy main~ tenance of this correct standing position. As the wearer leans forward in passing through the series of posturesifrom a standing position to a sitting position, the back departs but slightly from its contour in standing position, as the for ward inclination in assuming the sitting position 60 is primarily about the hip joints. Whatever devi ation'there may be, however, from the contour of theback in standing position is provided for by the tilting‘movement- of the brassiere member about its pivotal .mounting 'l4—'l4. 65 When the wearer assumes sitting position, how ever, .on the one hand, the slight drooping for ward of the shoulders and the tilting downward of the bustline is accompanied by a pivotal move ment of the brassiere member around its pivotal 70 points of attachment to the corset member, and on the other hand, the muscular extension of the buttocks draws downwardly the corset member at the back beyond the pivotal connection with the brassiére member, so that from thispivotal 75. 2,131,707 out any “sliding of the brassiére member on the‘ 'connection'to the‘ center vertical line‘of the gar ment at the back there is an increasing relative movement of the brassiere and corset ‘members, the brassiere member moving upwardly and the corset member moving downwardly. The tilting skin of the wearer in properly ?tted garments; and corset members of the garment are well illus-: trated by a comparison of. Figs. 6 and 7. In Fig. '7 with the model maintaining her position of Fig. 6 the brassiere. member was‘ severed to the left 'of the center'seam of the‘ back band as shown ‘at 90. This immediately withdrew the effective support of the breasts which 'forthwith‘sagged-or drooped 10 raising perceptibly the back band-of the brassiere member ‘at the back by pulling upwardly on the of the brassiere member about'its pivotal point wherein in the sitting position in Fig. 4 the ‘hook if) and eye line 69 of the brassiere member has taken on a decided angular position in respect to the substantially vertical hook and eye line 68 of the corset member, these two lines being practically parallel in the standing position of Fig. 3. The 15 drawing downward of ‘the corset member in sit shoulder straps-there attached. With'the sagging ' I of the breasts‘, the ?gure itself sloped forwardly, straightening-in large part the lumbar; curve so that the back moved forwardly away fromthe upper portions of the‘ corset member above the waistline. The supporting function of the back ' of the garment above the waistline was completely ting position is seen by a comparison of the waist lines b of Figs. 3 and 4. The relative movement of the brassiere and corset members in sitting position is perhaps best illustrated by notingthe destroyed and the graceful, hygienic posture of 20 20 position of the line 11 in Figs. 4 and 6 which as just stated is coincident with the lower margin of the brassiere member in the standing position of , _ The cooperative "functioning ;of the 'b'rassiére of attachment with the corset member is well illustrated by a comparison of Figs. 3 and 4 Figs. 2 and 3. 5 . Fig. 6 was lost. . V . . The elasticpor'tions of the garment illustrated give ?exibility ,to the garment, add greatlyto the‘ ' comfort of the wearer and provide for a-freedom of body'movement which is- consistent'with the 25 The pivotal movement of the brassiere about its 25 pivotal points of attachment, the drawing down primary objects ‘and operation of this invention. ward of the corset member, and the relative move ment of the brassiére and corset members are They may ‘or may not be present in their entirety as desired. In the particular garment illustrated eifected, however, without loss of support for the breasts and the back in the lumbar region and in 30 the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region. On the contrary, the breasts are supported in their slightly lowered position with the downward tilt ing of the bustline, the degree of curvature of the lumbar region proper to sitting position is main 35 tained, and the torso is erect with no crowding of the organs in their abdominal cavity. As seen in Figs. 1 to 9,,inclusive, however, the placing of the elastic gussets 65—65 preferably in line with 30 and above the elastic strips l2—l2v of the side of the corset member is functional in‘ that on stretching the fabric back 63-63 of the backhand is maintainedin linewith the fabric back of the corset member, which alignmenttends to prevent 35 any engagement of the parts which would inter in Figs. 4 and 6, the back band of the brassiére . fere with or preclude the smooth‘ reciprocating member still closely encircles the upper part of the corset member and cooperates therewith in 40 maintaining a reenforced support to the very top of the back and side portions of the corset mem ber. ' Furthermore, by reason primarily of the cut vertical movement of the’ brassierei and corset members. ' - ' ; The garment 'illustrated'in Figs. 2a and 3a, a 40 side opening garment, departs from the garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 9, inclusive, primarily in the construction‘ of the sides and back, the front of the garment being identical'with the front of down upper borders 36 of the side panels, no lat 45 eral pressure is exerted on the chest wall immedi the ?rst formrexc‘ept in the particulars now to be 45 referred’ tofthe difference being so minor and ately below the breasts across the nerve center, popularly referred to as the pit of the stomach,‘ readily described that no front View of the second ’ which would tend to cause the wearer to assume form of-lgarment is given. As to the front of the a slouching position while sitting. The pivotal second formyof garment, Fig. 1 may, therefore, be 50 movement of the brassiere member provides for a conveniently considered'in connection with Figs. 50' uniformity of support for the breasts and of pres sure across the chest wall immediately beneath The corset member A’ has a center panel 20’ which, like the center panel>20 of is a two the breasts, which would not be true if this sup port and pressure were exerted by the corset piece panel provided at the bottom with a triangu- . 2a 55 member. At the same time the snug ?tting of the brassiere member about the ?gure and about the upper portion of the corset member prevents the possibility of the upper portion of the corset member protruding rearwardly from the back of the wearer should the wearer stoop forwardly while sitting or standing. " ' ' In sitting from standing position the back band of the brassiére member slides smoothly and with out appreciable effort upward on the upper part of the'back and sides of the corset member, but never separates therefrom, always giving’ con tinuity of support. In standing from sitting posi and 3a. . - ' . , g > i ' . lar insert like the-insert 2| of Fig. v1, and at the 55 top is merged into the lower central part of the brassiére member C’ preferably without break in the fabric, precisely asnshown in Fig. 1. The side panels 22'tof ‘the front are identical with those of ' the garment of Fig. 1 at the bottom, but at the top they continueupwardly to the lower border of the breast pockets, 60', towhich they are attached ' by stitching in suitable manner, their upper parts, therefore, merging into and forming the side front parts‘ of the lower portion of the brassiere member preferably ‘without break in the fabric. the corset member, the parts assuming their cor rect interrelation and positions illustrated in Figs. The boning reenforcement in the front of the corset member'of thej?rst form of garment may be employed in'the second-form, The front of .70 the brassiére member has breast pockets 60? to which are suitably attached shoulder straps 16'," the breast pockets and shoulder straps being iden-V 1 and 3. tical‘with those of the ?rst form. tion this motion is reversed with the same 70 smoothness and without any displacement what soever of the upper part of the back and sides of This relative movement of the two con 76 stituent members of the garment ‘is‘eifected with As is apparent ' from Figs. 2a‘ and.‘ 3a theulower part'of .the'75 ' 6 2,131,707 brassiere member ‘does not have the forwardly projecting pieces 66 of the form of Fig. 1. .The sides of the garment illustrated in Figs. 2a and 3a, like the sides of the ?rst form of garment (see Figs. 2 and 3), are each formed with two ver on each side. "This, however,‘ is purely a matter of preference. . . As to the brassiere member the back band 62' at each side terminates at the rear edge of the upward extensions of the side pieces I3’ to which tical pieces l2’ and 13’. The'forward pieces’ 13’ - its side pieces 64' of fabric are attached by stitch which are of fabric‘ di?er from the correspond ing pieces [3 in the ?rst form in that they extend preferably in unbroken structural line to the top 10 of the brassiere' member functionally merging. into and forming a part of that member; The side piece I3’ on one side is stitched to the side of its corresponding front panel 22’ and breast pocket 69’ throughout its length. The side piece I3’ on 15 the other side'is provided with an underlying band M’ from top'to bottom above which at the edge of the side piece are attached eyes l5’ which cooperate with hooks mounted on the underside of the outer edges of the corresponding side piece 20 22' and the breast pocket 60', which edges are reenforced with an underlying band, all as will be understood from the more elaborate descrip tion and showing of the similar parts of the ?rst form of garment. 25 1' ' The rearward pieces l2’ of the side of this gar ment differ from the corresponding side pieces I 2 of the ?rst form in that they are of fabric rather than of elastic and extend slightly further to the back of the garment. The side pieces l2’ con 30 tinue upwardly above the waistline bwhere they form‘ the side pieces of the upwardly extending back portion of the corset membenbeing cut di agonally downward from the top on each side as indicated by the dotted line 33’ to points well 35 above the waistline but terminating suf?ciently ing and tape in the usual manner. The back of the brassiere member is formed. of two pieces of fabric 63' stitched at their outer edges to the side pieces 64' and to each other at the center, a tri 10 angular gusset 65' of elastic being provided mid way at the top. The top line of the back band which slopes gently downward from the sides to the elastic gusset terminates in the lower dorsal or thoracic vertebral region of the back well above the top of the upwardly extending back portion of the corset member. and slightly higher than the back band of the ?rst form. The lower line of the back band terminates well above the waistline. Its center back portion is 20 curved gently upward and its side pieces extend upward at quite a perceptible angle. The shoul der straps 16' are suitably attached to the upper edge of the back band of thebrassiere member. The pivotal attachments of the back band of 25 the brassiére member to the corset member which as heretofore stated are formed merely by the two-ply tapes ‘M’ are placed slightly further to the rear on each side thanare the pivotal attach ments of the ?rst form. - The tapes 14’ are at 30 tached to the back band as here shown spanning the seams between the side pieces, 64’ and the back pieces 63'. r ‘The second form of garment may be provided with a loose motion attachment between the 35 below the chest wall immediately beneath the - corset and brassiére member similar to that (19, breasts so that no pressure islthere exerted by the corset member itself. As illustrated in Figs. .2a and 3a these side pieces l2’ for purposes of proper ?tting may be formed of two pieces stitched to gether on the diagonal across the waistline where they form-a suitable attachment means for the double ply pivoting tapes ‘Ill/‘which replace the tapes 72,13 and the link 14 of the ?rst form illus trated in detail in Fig. 9. At the bottom and to the rear of each of the side pieces l2’. there are triangular inserts of elastic l2". ' The back of the corset member is substantially identical with that of the ?rst form, being com posed of a center panel ‘l0’ to each side of which are the panels H’. These panels areof fabric and extend from the bottom of the corset to the top of the upwardly extending portion of the back which is substantially of the same shape and pro 55 portion as the upwardly extendingback portion of the ?rst form. The reenforcing boning 45' and 46’ of the second form corresponds in method and place of attachment, form and size with the boning 45 and 46 of the ?rst form. The center piece Ill’ and side pieces H’ are, however, some what narrower than those of the ?rst form due to the fact that the side pieces l2’ extend further to the rear than the side pieces l2 'of the ?rst form. Furthermore, the upwardlyextendingpore 65 tion of the back, while out slightly downward from the'top of the side pieces l2’ toward the center and not having the‘ distinctive notch 35 of the ?rst form, terminates above at substantially the same distance from the waistline as the upwardly 70 extending back portion of the ?rst form.‘ The back and side pieces are stitched together and their margins bound with tape in the usual form as will be readily understood. In the secondform only four garters 30' are illustrated, these being two in the front and one 80) employed in the ?rst form. > The back band of the brassiére member over lies and cooperates with the upwardly extending back portion ofthe corset in sitting, bending and standing positions of'the wearer, and the entire operation and functional performance of the second form'of "garment is identical with that of the ?rst form of garment. It is believed that this operation and functional performance will be well 45 understood from the foregoing’ described opera tion of the ?rst form of garment without repeti tion. a » a ' While the pivotal connection of the back band of the brassiere member to the back of the cor 50 set member in the second form is quite di?erent from the pivotal attachment of the two members ~ in the ?rst form and the points of attachment are located considerably closer to the back, the pivotal action of the brassiere member in both $55 forms keeps the disconnected portion of the bras siere member in position and assures the‘main tenance of the bust in its normal position when the wearer is standing, bending or sitting. It al lows the breasts to droop normally as a result 01' the relaxation of the muscles in_sitting position and to return to their normal position when the wearer resumes a standing posture without at any time depriving the breasts of the desired support. This pivotal action, together with the fact that 65 the breast pockets and the portion overlying the diaphragm are structurally independent of the back portion‘ of the corset member andnot sub ject ‘to the pull and strain exerted upon the back portion of the corset member through the various changes of posture, is of great importance to the wearer both from the standpoint of comfort and artistic lines. This is particularly true during any period of fashion such as obtains on the ?ling date hereof, which demands the molded bust and 15 2,131,707 7 the uplift effect necessitating a very snug ?tting broken lines over the region of the lumbar curve , garment under the breasts. , to,_a pointwell above the waistline insitting and standing v‘positions and cooperating-with the brassiére member in tending to maintain ,the It should be apparent from the foregoing that my invention is not limited to the foundation gar ments herein above described either as to the type of the garment or as to the details of con; struction. The invention is, for example, very lumbar curve in both these positions, the corset member at the back having its side members cut away‘ at the top to a point below the lower line useful in garments embodying the improvements 7 of the breasts and the chest wall immediately be ’ r set forth in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,978,092, neath thebreasts so that no lateral pressure is 10 granted October 23, 1934. The garments here exerted therefrom on the breasts and the chest ,10 ‘Y shown were selected from a number 01' different wall immediately beneath‘ the breasts. types embodying the invention because of their 4. In a foundation garment “for women, the simplicity for illustrative purposes and no undue combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem limitation should be deduced therefrom, but the 15 appended claims should be construed as broadl as permissible in view of the prior art. - i Having thus described my invention, what I claim is: 1. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiére member overlyingthe top of the corset member at the 15 sides, and, back thereof in sitting and standing“ positions of the wearer, the brassiere member being permanently attached to the corset mem ber at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative 26 , movement between the brassiere member and the ‘ overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in’ sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member 25 being permanently attached to the corset mem ber at the front and being pivotally connected to corset member about the pivotal mounting is pro vided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset mem ber at theback extending .in vertical unbroken the corset member at the sides so that relative movement between the brassiere member and the corset member about the pivotal mounting is pro point well above the waistline in sitting and lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a ' 2.5 standing positions and being there reenforced by boning on each side of the center line of the corset 30 vided for to accommodate the relative lowering ‘ member which extends upwardly to substantially of the breasts in sitting position, the corset mem the upper margin of the back, the brassiere" “ ber at the back extending in vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a point well above the waistline in sitting and 35 standing positions and cooperating with the bras siere member in tending. to maintain thelumbar curve in both these positions. I‘ 2. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem 40 ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member being permanently attached to the corset member , 45 at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative move ment between the brassiére member and the corset member about the pivotal mounting is pro vided for to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset mem ber at the back extending in ‘vertical unbroken lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a point well above the waistline in sitting and member cooperating with said. upwardly extend ing portions of the corset’member at the back in tendingto maintain the normal lumbar curva ture in both sitting and standing positions,‘ the 35 brassiére member-holding the upwardly extend- “ ing portion of the corset member atrthe back snugly against the body of the wearer in stand‘ ing, bending and sitting positions‘ and thereby ' maintaining smooth unbroken lines and prevent ing the said upwardly extending portions of the corset member from protruding from the back of the wearer. ' 5. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem 45 ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and'standing positions of the wearer, the brassiére member be ing permanently attached to the corset member 50 I at the front and being pivotally connected to the corset member at the sides so that relative move ment between the brassiere member and the cor standing positions and cooperating with the set member about the pivotal mou'nting is pro brassiere member in tending to maintain the‘ vided for to accommodate the relative lowering 55 lumbar curve in both these positions, the corset of the breasts in sitting position, the corsetmem member above the waistline being so constructed ber at the back comprising a center panel and' as to its upwardly extending portion at the sides two side panels stitched to the 'center panel one on each side thereof all extending'in unbroken and back that no lateral pressure is exerted there 60 from on the breasts and chest wall immediately vertical lines over the region of the lumbar curve to a point well above the waistline in sitting and beneath the breasts. 3. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiére member 65 overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member being permanently attached to the corset mem ber at the front and being pivotally connected to 70 the corset member at the sides so that relative movement between the brassiére member and the corset member about the pivotal mounting is provided for to accommodate the relative lower ing of the breasts in sitting position, the corset 75 member at the back extending in vertical un standing positions, boning positioned along the outer margin of the said center panel and along the outer margin of the said side panels and. ex tending upwardly to substantially the upper mar 65 gin of the back, the sides of the corset member adjoining and being attached to the back thereof ~ being cutaway ‘from the top‘ downward to points located below the chest wall immediately beneath the breasts, the said boning reenforcing the un 70 broken vertical support of the back over the region of the lumbar curve, the cut away portions 7 of the back and sides at the top preventing lateral , pressure being exerted by the corset member across the breasts and chest wall immediately be 75 8 2,131,707 a neath the breasts, the corset member at the back suitably» attached thereto, at the sidesitoward the above the waistline cooperating with the brassiére ' member in tending to maintain the lumbar curve front frontal side fabric‘ portions suitably at-, tached at their top edges to the breast pockets and at their frontedges'to said subtending fabric in both sitting and standing’positions. 6. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiére member it) overlying the top of the corset member at the sides and back thereof in sitting and standing positions of the wearer, the brassiere member comprising breast pockets and a back band ex tending around the sides and: back of the wearer, the corset member at the front having acenter panel extending continuously upward to the lower margin of the breast pockets, the back band of the brassiére member having forwardly extending portions which at the top are attached to the lower extremity of the breast pockets and in the front are attached to the upwardly extending 20 center panel of the corset member, means for piv otally attaching the back band of the brassiere member to the sides of the corset member ‘above the waistline so that relative movement between portion and having their bottom edges overlap ping and relatively movable in respect to the cor set member in standing, bending and sitting posi tions, said subtending' fabric portion comprising ‘an upwardly'extending portion of the front of the corset member, and at the sides toward the back 1o and at the back a back band comprising side por tions suitably attached to the said frontal side portions and a back panel connecting said back band side portions; the corset member at the back extending upward in vertical unbroken lines over 15 the region of the lumbar ‘curve to points well above the waistline in the dorsal or thoracic vertebral region in standing, bending and sitting positions and being cut away at the sides to a point below the lower line of the breasts and the '20 chest wall'immediately beneath the breasts so that no lateral pressure is exerted by the corset 7 member on the breasts and the chest wall im the brassiére member and the corset member mediately beneath the breasts; the back band of 25 about the pivotal mounting is provided for to the brassiere member being pivotally attached to accommodate the relative lowering of the breasts in sitting position, the corset member atthe back extending in vertical unbroken lines over the the corset member at the sides at points back of the said frontal side portions and overlapping the "25 upwardly extending back portion of the corset member in standing, bending and sitting posi tions; the brassiére member cooperating with the region of the lumbar curve to points well above’ the waistline in sitting and standing positions and cooperating with the bras‘siere member.’ in tend ing to maintain the'lumbar curve in-both these in standing, bending and sitting positions without positions. subjecting the breasts to pull or stress; the con- > ‘ - ' ' a '7. In a foundation garment for women, the combination of a ?gure-conforming corset mem ber and a ?gure-conforming brassiere member; the brassiére member comprising in the front breast pockets and a subtending fabric portion corset member in maintaining the lumbar curve struction and arrangement of the parts being such as to afford the breasts support ‘and to tend r to maintain them in normal-position in standing, bending and sitting. _ , ' JOSEPH LEONARD.