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Патент USA US2132907

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Oct. 11, 193s. ‘f
. Filed Aug. 23, 1935
Patented Oct. l l, -1938
* 2,132,901.
Meyer Sperber, Philade
iii'ty one-hundredths toFranklt.Redman,v
Yardley, Pa.
Application aum 2s, 19:5, serai No. 37,605
s claim.
gol.' 154-2) '
My invention relates to an improvement in mul- ~ invention contemplates thepossibility of eliminat
ti-ply articles, such as collars and other articles lng one' of the component plies, if desired.
of apparel, and to a method of manufacturing
- The starchless or fused type of collars now on
such products. More particularly this invention the market is in general characterized by the use
- 5 relates to. improvements in the type of multi-ply of material associated with the interliner which 5 i*
articles of apparel known in the trade as starch ' is 'water-insoluble and binds the interliner to the
less or fused collars and the like.
cover cloth or cloths. 'I'hese are of two types,
The principal object of the present invention in the first of which the interliner itself is woven
is to provide a novel multi-ply article. which has of threads of cotton and of a latentlycementitious
10 many advantages, Vfrom the standpoint of both
manufacture and use, as compared with the prod-'
ucts previously available.„
Another object of the invention is to provide an`
improved article of apparel, such as a collar, of
15 the starchless- or fused type in which the ply
having the cementitious surface coating thereon
is characterized by its pervious nature,- with ac
companying advantages.
A further object of the invention is to provide
20 a”. novel method of manufacturing a multi-ply
@structure embodied in articlesv of the >type de
As the invention is directed particularly to ar
ticles of apparel of multi-ply construction, such
25 as collars, cuffs, bosoms, and the like,- it will be
,- described with particular reference to this type'
of product, and more especially to collars, although
material such as cellulose acetate.
This inter- 10 »
liner is placed in contact with the lcover cloth or
cloths and a solvent acting upon the cellulose
acetate is applied.,v >When the solvent evaporates,
a bondl is created between the interliner and/the
other material.
In the second type, the interliner which may be
of the usual cotton fabric or other material em
ployed in starclied collars is treated with a cemen
titious material in Aplastic condition or in a .sol
vent. - 'I‘he interliner upon being dried has an im- 20
pervious coating of the material upon its surface.
When the treated interliner is assembled with
the cover cloth or cloths, a bond is created between
the materials by an appropriateistep 4depending
on the nature of the cementitious material. If the 25
material is of the type of cellulosel acetate or the .
like, a solvent for. the coating is applied and after
drying a bonded product is obtained. In the
United States Patent No. 2,009,139, granted to
30 . In the drawing:
.Frank R. Redman, July 23, 1935,- the usé of ther- 30
. VFigure y1 is a perspective view of a collar em-' mo-plastic resinous material as the bonding agent
bodying the invention, a portion of the outer cover is described, which material is capable> of being /
- cloth being turned back to disclose the lining ply; cementitiously softened at pressing temperatures,
Figure'2 is an enlarged perspective view showing vbutxstill retains its adhesion at andbelow the . ~
boiling temperature otwater. If this type of ma~ 35 `
>35 the lining material of the invention;
I Figure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional `terial is used as the cementitious substance, the
view showing one of the pins or punches extending bonding of the plies .is eifected by heat and pres
it likewise pertains to other articles which are sub-A
ïjected to repeated laundering.
through the lining material; and
Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional
,40 view of the multi-ply article shown in Figure 1. l _
It is" general practice in the manufacture of
sure without the aid of a solvent.
The present invention relates to the fused col
lars ofthe second type, that is to say, collars 40
where an interliner'coated with a cementitious
collars to assemble multiple plies of fabric which
have previously been cut in desired shape and size.
material is employed in the fabrication of the ar- p
: A collar so assembled can be-divided into its two
inally applied at least, is impervious to air and. Y
45 major parts, namely, the neck-band and the fold
- over top. In general practice, both of these major
ticle. Asl previously stated, the coating as orig-V
water, and is in fact practically water-proof. 45
When the type of cementitious coating described
parts are constructed from three plies of fabric; a in the Redman patent is employed, the article
becomes pervious after laundering, due to the _
face'ply,'an interlining, and a back ply, the neck
y band and fold-over top being made up separately, mechanical action involved, asjápointed out, in
50 and subsequently stitched tog ther. While there the patent, page 3, column 2, lines54vto' 61.'A By 50
are other processes of manufa -uring collars-this the present'inventiori,- a pervious interliner is
method is the one most univer ly practiced, and lprovided before fabrication of the article, which
the present invention is intended to conform par v in all respects is equal or superior to the imper
ticularly with yequipment used .to manufacture vious coated interliners used previously. A
55 collars of such general construction, although the v
There is a tendency for thecollars xnanufac-- 55
tured from the interliners having the impervious
may be produced by forcing a? plurality of pins
cementitious coating to blister during ironing after "through one side of the sheet, in which case the
laundering with the production of resulting wrin
opposite side will have slightly ?aisefd portions
kles in the iron product. This is-due to ~the fact surrounding the perforations and corresponding
5 Èhat the? vapor evolved during the ironing has no to the outlinefof the' pins. Preferably, however,
Yînutlet and, therefore, may build up in ¿front _of the perforations are formed byê forcing a plurality
of pins through both sides of thecoated sheet al
A, Ythe ironin the formof >a blister, it being under
Ystood that the collar has been moistened during ternately, and this may easily be accomplished
laundering or prior treatment and that the appli
by passing the coated sheetthrough rolls, both
l0 cation of the hot iron on other pressing device to of which areprovided with pins adjusted to per
the moistened collar results in the generation of , forate the sheet,lit being understood that this
procwure will result in the formation of slightly
vapor. ?Some diiiiculties are also 'at times encoun
tered in the laundering of the product, since the raised portions surrounding each perforation and
Y washing fluids do not permeate the\interliner.
15;YV Such difiiculties are more pronounced when the
î laundering includes a bleaching step withfa chem
ical which must be removed bysubsequent treat
ment. In this case, the iinal washing may not
remove the cleansing ?materials completely, in
20 which case the article of apparel may ultimately
shape and size of the >pins er punches may be
varied as desired, but since a very large number
of mìnuteperforaticns is to be preferred, the>
pins or punches will be very small and/usually cir- -
cular in cross-section. The perforations may be
produced without any thoughf'of regularity and
The continuous iilm’of cementitious material
in the interliner imparts stiffness thereto which
manifests itself in- its paper quality, imparting
î. to the finishedarticle a "crackle” which is con
sidered ldetrimental by some manufacturers. The
lack or' flexibility does not lend itself to easy
manipulation in the manufacture of collars, par- '
ticularly in the sewing of the plies togethercand
30 in turning the points.-y
extending from the side of the sheet opposite `
that penetrated by the pins?ï or punches.
the ïnumber of apertures per unit area mayï be
varied widely. In any-event, the coated inter
liner ls provided with a multiplicity of-minute per- `
,forations each surrounded by a slightly raised
portion of the punched out rriaterial, which raised
portions extend outwardly from one or both faces
of the interliner depending upon whether the per
forations are formed by pins or punches forced
through one or both sides ofthe interliner.V
In accordance with the present invention, these 4 _ ` In a specific example, a lining fabric of 6G sley
disadvantageous tendencies are overcome and 'of ¿single thirtys cotton and 4_8 picks- of single
certain new advantages are impartedto the inter
liner by »perforating the interliner to improve its
5 porositywithout in any way destroying the quali
ties which make it suitable for the purpose for
which it is intended. While the untreated inter
liner may be perforated before coating, provided
care is taken duringY the coating operation to
avoid lfillingfthe perforations 'thereof with the
coating material, itis recommended that the per
forations be formed in' the coated interliner.
' More particularly, the interliner with the con
" tinuous coating applied thereto, as taught' by the
fortys cotton coated with a thermoplastic res
inous material, as described in the above-men
tioned Redman patent, is passed through a per
forating machine to provide’245 minute perfora
tions per square inch through the lining fabric.
The interliner with its latently cementitious >but
pervious coating is placed between cover cloths
_orgouter piles in the usual method of manufac 40
tinjing fused or starchless collars, and the assem
bled multi-ply product is subjected to heai'l and
pressure to create the desired bond between the
lining and cover cloths asgdescribed in theY Red
prior? art, fori example. as taught by? the above ` man patent. During the'ironing or pressing oper 45
mentioned Redman patent, YYis provided with a_ ation, ,the slightly; raised portion of the inter-y
multiplicity of minute perforations which extend liner which surrounds each perforation and which
through the'coatingïand interliner and break up f results from the piercing or punching operationv
the continuity lof the surface coating, thereby above referred to, is pressed into the correspond
0 rendering tljre interliner and the products made
therefrom flexible and perviousyto both _air and
ing perforation to partially but »not 'completely
water, and imparting to the fabric the desirable
ly ñll the perforation but leaves a ïi’elatively small
opening through the interliner at? each perfora
characteristics mentioned hereinafter.
. ' The interiin'er is coated with the desiredf'ce
55' mentitious material in a solvent or in plastic con
dition, andrthereafter it‘is êried to form the in-l
- soluble, impervious coating as is the practice in
the art. The cementitious vmaterial may be any
. ofthe types suitable for the manufacture of
6o starchless er fused collars, for example, cellulose
acetate with or without a plasticizer. A thermo
plasticresinous 'materialffor example, the mix
turesof vinyl resins described in the Redman
the same, il' e., the material dœs not complete
tion, which openings are Y¿not discernible through
the cover cloths but render the product sufiicient
ly pervious to .-satisfactorily accomplish the 55.
objects of the present invention. The small per
forations or openings remain in ‘the interliner
during repeated launderings but are not appar
ent in the finished-article. In, the drawing, the
cover clothsareshown at I, the interliner at 2, -
with itsvv openings 3. In Figures and 4 the nu
:neral 4 designates the ’raised portion which sur
rounds each of the perforations made through
the interliner by the pin ,on punch 5,- Figure 3 65
tially`non-shrinking and non-stretching before -. _showing the formation of the raised portion dur
the application of the cementitious material, as ing the piercing or punching operation, and Fig
set forth inthe aforesaid Redman patent.
ure x4 'showing the said raised portions after the
The multiplicity of minute perforations may be collar'îcas- been ironed or pressed to bond thev
cover cloth or cloths to the interliner toi'î‘orce the 70
70 formed through _the coated interliner by any de
sired means, for example, by punching or by forc
raised portions into the corresponding perform.
ingA a number- of pins of the desired shape and size tions to partially but not completely illl the same.
Patent No. 2,009,139 may also be used.
If de
j65 rsired, the interliner may be rendered substan
ì through the fabric. In either case, the strncture
of the interliner will be cutaway at the points of
75 perforation.
In addition to rendering the interlining per
Yvious and iiexible with the advantages previously
The multiplicity of perforations kpointed out, anrincreased bond is afforded be 75
tween the cover .cloth or ,cloths and the inter
cloth, and pressing said assembled multi-ply
liner', due to the fact that the perforations in the
lining permit of slight, but invisible, indentations
structure to render said coating material cemen
titious ’w bond said cover cloth to said inter
liner and to force the slightly raised portion
ofthe cover cloths therein, as shown in exaggera
tion in Figure 4. Each of the cover cloths isse
cured to the entire imperforatg,y surface of the
.interliner and is also keyed to the interliner ad
»I ~ jacent the perforations, this keying of the cover
f cloths at the perforations being due to the fact
(that thereis a slight but not discernible inden
tation or depression in the surface of the inter
surrounding each ' perforation into its corre
sponding perforation to partially ñll the same
so as to leave a multiplicity of small openings
through the coated interliner of sufllcient mi-v
nuteness as not to be apparent on the face of
the cover cloth.
' 6. I_n the manufacture of multi-ply articles
liner adjacent each opening as shown in greatly y such as collars and the like, the method which
exaggerated form in Figure 4 ofthe accompany-` comprises (piercing an interliner having a coat
ing drawings. _These indentations or depressions ing of latently cementitious, substantially water
lmaterially assist _in preventing slippage 'of the insoluble material thereon to produce a vmulti
cover cloths with respect to the interliner. It will _plicity of perforations through said coated inter
be obvious that when the collaris moistened and liner with a slightly raised portion of the coated'
ironed, `the openings 3 will permitthe escape of
steam or vapor through the collar and that blis
interliner surrounding each perforation, assem~
bling said perforated interliner with a pervious
tering of the cover cloths and resulting wrinkling
cover cloth, moistening 'said assembled multi-ply 20
thereof will be effectively eliminated. ,
structure, and applying heat and pressure to
It will be understood, of course, that the inven
»said assembled multi-ply structure to render-.said
tion is susceptible to change or modification as
coating 'material cementitious to bond said cover
to its details without departing from the scope ' cloth to said interliner and to force the slightly
Iraised portion surrounding each perforation into
-. its corresponding perforation to partially i111 the
1. The method _of making an interliner forfuse lsaine so as to leave a multiplicity of small open
in the manufacture _of multi-ply' articles such as ings through the coated interliner of suilicient
collars or the like‘which'comprises applying tou 'minuteness as-not to be apparent on the face v
of the cover cloth, said openings rendering the 30
30 a sheet a coating of latently cementitious, sub
structure pervious to permit the escape of vapor
stantially water-insoluble material, and there
created therëin during the application of nheat
plicity- of perforations each of which is sur
and pressure *to the moistened assembled multi
rounded by a slightly raised portion ofthe coated ply structure, whereby blistering of the material
and resulting wrinkling .of ,the cover cloth are
35 sheet, which portion is> bendable into its corre'
sponding perforation to partially ñll the same. eliminated.
‘ after providingl said coated 'sheet with a multi
` 2. rI_‘he method of- making an interliner for use>
inthe manufacture of multi-ply articles _such as
7. In the manufacture of multi-ply articlesl
A collars or the like, which comprises applying to
such as collars and the like, the method which
lcomprises piercing an interliner having a coating
a sheet a. coating of latently cementitious, sub
of_ latently ' cementitious, substantially water
stantially water-insoluble, thermoplastic mate
insoluble, thermoplastic material thereon to pro
duce a multiplicity of perforations through said
coated vinterliner with. a slightly raised portion
¿of .the coated interliner surrounding each perfo
_ rial, and thereafter providing said coated sheet
with a' multiplicity of perforations each of which
is surrounded by a slightly raised portion of the
45 coated sheet, which portion isl bendable into its
corresponding perforation to partiallyA fill thev
ration, assembling said perforated interliner with
a pervious cover cloth, moistening said assembled _
for multi-ply articles such as collars orthe like,
comprising a sheet having a- coating of vlatently
multi-ply structure, and applying heat and pres
sure to said _assembled multi-ply structure to
render said coating material cementitious to bond
said cover cloth to said interliner- and to force 50
cementitious and substantially water-insoluble
the slightly raised portion surrounding each -
~3. As an article of manufacture, an interliner
material thereon and having a multiplicity of
r. perforations _extending therethrough with slight
perforation into its corresponding perforation to
ly'raised portions of said coated sheet surround
ing each corresponding perforation and extend
plicity of small 4openings through the interliner
ing outwardly from the surface of said sheet.
4. As an article of manufacture, an interliner
partiallyilll the same so as to leave, a multi
of sufficient minuteness as not to ~be apparent 55
onvthe face of the cover cloth, said openingsl '
rendering the structure pervious to permit the
for'multi-ply articles such as collars and the escape of vapor created therein during the ap
like, comprising a sheet having a coating of lat- ' plication' ofthea't and pressure to the moistened.'
v-60 ently cementitious, substantially water-insolu
ble, thermoplastic material thereon and having
a multiplicity of _perforations extendingrthere
through vwith slightly raised portions of -said
coated sheet surrounding each corresponding
65 perforation and extending outwardly from the
A o surfa e of said sheet.
assembled multi-ply> structure, whereby vblister
ing of thev material and resulting wrinkling of
the cover cloth _are eliminated.
8. A multi-ply article "such as a collar-or the
like including a cover cloth and an interlinerA
therefor, said interliner comprising a sheet hav
ing a coating of latently cementitious, substan
tially water-insoluble material thereon to bond
_ such as collars and the like, the method which - said cover ‘cloth to said interliner when said '
comprises piercing' an -interliner having a coat
coating material is rendered cementitious vand
70 ingof latently cementitioussubstantially water-A said coated interliner having a multiplicity of 70
perforations each of which' is partially closed
` insoluble material thereon to produce a multi
plicity of perforations~throughsaid coated inter
by a portion of the surrounding coated sheetliner with a slightly raised portion ofthe coated Awhich'extends into its corresponding perfora
interliner surrounding each perforation, assem-~ tion to produce a multiplicity of small openings
5. n -the manufacture of 'multi-plyr‘articles
.bling said _ perforated interliner with a cover
through said interliner of sufllcient minuteness
` 23,182,907~
i as not to Alie' apparent on the vvface of the lcover
'to said cover cloth and interliner, said coated
interliner having a multiplicity of perforations
9. A multi-ply article such as a collar or the each of which is partially closed by a portion of .
like including a cover cloth and an interliner. >the surrounding coated sheet which'extends into
en' therefor, said 'interliner comprising a sheet hav#
‘ ing a coating of latently` cementitious, substan
.tially water-insoluble, thermoplastic materiaî
thereon to. bond said cover cloth to said inter
¿ linerv upon tlie .application of -heat andv pressure
its corresponding perforation to produce a multi
plicity of small openings through said interliner
of suñicient minutenes's as not to be apparent on
the face of the cover `clot .
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