Патент USA US2132907код для вставки
Oct. 11, 193s. ‘f M. SPERBER MULTI-FLY ARTICLE AMD METHOD oF MAKING SAME . Filed Aug. 23, 1935 2,132,907 Patented Oct. l l, -1938 * 2,132,901. UNITED STATES2,132,901PATENT oFFlcE MULTI-FLY ARTICLE AND METHOD 0F MAKING SAME , lplnis.,Pasanignol'of'v Meyer Sperber, Philade iii'ty one-hundredths toFranklt.Redman,v Yardley, Pa. ‘ Application aum 2s, 19:5, serai No. 37,605 . . Y s claim. gol.' 154-2) ' . a My invention relates to an improvement in mul- ~ invention contemplates thepossibility of eliminat ti-ply articles, such as collars and other articles lng one' of the component plies, if desired. of apparel, and to a method of manufacturing - The starchless or fused type of collars now on such products. More particularly this invention the market is in general characterized by the use - 5 relates to. improvements in the type of multi-ply of material associated with the interliner which 5 i* articles of apparel known in the trade as starch ' is 'water-insoluble and binds the interliner to the less or fused collars and the like. ' cover cloth or cloths. 'I'hese are of two types, . The principal object of the present invention in the first of which the interliner itself is woven is to provide a novel multi-ply article. which has of threads of cotton and of a latentlycementitious 10 many advantages, Vfrom the standpoint of both manufacture and use, as compared with the prod-' ucts previously available.„ Another object of the invention is to provide an` improved article of apparel, such as a collar, of 15 the starchless- or fused type in which the ply having the cementitious surface coating thereon is characterized by its pervious nature,- with ac companying advantages. . A further object of the invention is to provide 20 a”. novel method of manufacturing a multi-ply @structure embodied in articlesv of the >type de scribed. ` As the invention is directed particularly to ar ticles of apparel of multi-ply construction, such 25 as collars, cuffs, bosoms, and the like,- it will be ,- described with particular reference to this type' of product, and more especially to collars, although material such as cellulose acetate. This inter- 10 » liner is placed in contact with the lcover cloth or cloths and a solvent acting upon the cellulose acetate is applied.,v >When the solvent evaporates, a bondl is created between the interliner and/the other material. ` ' In the second type, the interliner which may be of the usual cotton fabric or other material em ployed in starclied collars is treated with a cemen titious material in Aplastic condition or in a .sol vent. - 'I‘he interliner upon being dried has an im- 20 pervious coating of the material upon its surface. When the treated interliner is assembled with the cover cloth or cloths, a bond is created between the materials by an appropriateistep 4depending on the nature of the cementitious material. If the 25 material is of the type of cellulosel acetate or the . like, a solvent for. the coating is applied and after drying a bonded product is obtained. In the United States Patent No. 2,009,139, granted to 30 . In the drawing: j ` ~ .Frank R. Redman, July 23, 1935,- the usé of ther- 30 . VFigure y1 is a perspective view of a collar em-' mo-plastic resinous material as the bonding agent bodying the invention, a portion of the outer cover is described, which material is capable> of being / - cloth being turned back to disclose the lining ply; cementitiously softened at pressing temperatures, Figure'2 is an enlarged perspective view showing vbutxstill retains its adhesion at andbelow the . ~ boiling temperature otwater. If this type of ma~ 35 ` >35 the lining material of the invention; I Figure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional `terial is used as the cementitious substance, the view showing one of the pins or punches extending bonding of the plies .is eifected by heat and pres it likewise pertains to other articles which are sub-A ïjected to repeated laundering. ' through the lining material; and 4 Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional ,40 view of the multi-ply article shown in Figure 1. l _ \ It is" general practice in the manufacture of sure without the aid of a solvent. ’ » „ The present invention relates to the fused col lars ofthe second type, that is to say, collars 40 where an interliner'coated with a cementitious collars to assemble multiple plies of fabric which have previously been cut in desired shape and size. material is employed in the fabrication of the ar- p : A collar so assembled can be-divided into its two inally applied at least, is impervious to air and. Y 45 major parts, namely, the neck-band and the fold - over top. In general practice, both of these major ticle. Asl previously stated, the coating as orig-V water, and is in fact practically water-proof. 45 When the type of cementitious coating described parts are constructed from three plies of fabric; a in the Redman patent is employed, the article becomes pervious after laundering, due to the _ face'ply,'an interlining, and a back ply, the neck y band and fold-over top being made up separately, mechanical action involved, asjápointed out, in 50 and subsequently stitched tog ther. While there the patent, page 3, column 2, lines54vto' 61.'A By 50 are other processes of manufa -uring collars-this the present'inventiori,- a pervious interliner is method is the one most univer ly practiced, and lprovided before fabrication of the article, which the present invention is intended to conform par v in all respects is equal or superior to the imper ticularly with yequipment used .to manufacture vious coated interliners used previously. A 55 collars of such general construction, although the v There is a tendency for thecollars xnanufac-- 55 , 2,132,907 tured from the interliners having the impervious t may be produced by forcing a? plurality of pins cementitious coating to blister during ironing after "through one side of the sheet, in which case the laundering with the production of resulting wrin opposite side will have slightly ?aisefd portions kles in the iron product. This is-due to ~the fact surrounding the perforations and corresponding 5 Èhat the? vapor evolved during the ironing has no to the outlinefof the' pins. Preferably, however, Yînutlet and, therefore, may build up in ¿front _of the perforations are formed byê forcing a plurality of pins through both sides of thecoated sheet al A, Ythe ironin the formof >a blister, it being under Ystood that the collar has been moistened during ternately, and this may easily be accomplished laundering or prior treatment and that the appli by passing the coated sheetthrough rolls, both l0 cation of the hot iron on other pressing device to of which areprovided with pins adjusted to per the moistened collar results in the generation of , forate the sheet,lit being understood that this procwure will result in the formation of slightly vapor. ?Some diiiiculties are also 'at times encoun tered in the laundering of the product, since the raised portions surrounding each perforation and Y washing fluids do not permeate the\interliner. 15;YV Such difiiculties are more pronounced when the î laundering includes a bleaching step withfa chem ical which must be removed bysubsequent treat ment. In this case, the iinal washing may not remove the cleansing ?materials completely, in 20 which case the article of apparel may ultimately turn yellow. .i 1 ’ . . The shape and size of the >pins er punches may be varied as desired, but since a very large number of mìnuteperforaticns is to be preferred, the> pins or punches will be very small and/usually cir- - cular in cross-section. The perforations may be produced without any thoughf'of regularity and i The continuous iilm’of cementitious material in the interliner imparts stiffness thereto which manifests itself in- its paper quality, imparting î. to the finishedarticle a "crackle” which is con sidered ldetrimental by some manufacturers. The lack or' flexibility does not lend itself to easy manipulation in the manufacture of collars, par- ' ticularly in the sewing of the plies togethercand 30 in turning the points.-y extending from the side of the sheet opposite ` that penetrated by the pins?ï or punches. the ïnumber of apertures per unit area mayï be varied widely. In any-event, the coated inter liner ls provided with a multiplicity of-minute per- ` ,forations each surrounded by a slightly raised portion of the punched out rriaterial, which raised portions extend outwardly from one or both faces of the interliner depending upon whether the per forations are formed by pins or punches forced through one or both sides ofthe interliner.V Y 2.5 30 In accordance with the present invention, these 4 _ ` In a specific example, a lining fabric of 6G sley disadvantageous tendencies are overcome and 'of ¿single thirtys cotton and 4_8 picks- of single certain new advantages are impartedto the inter liner by »perforating the interliner to improve its 5 porositywithout in any way destroying the quali ties which make it suitable for the purpose for which it is intended. While the untreated inter liner may be perforated before coating, provided care is taken duringY the coating operation to avoid lfillingfthe perforations 'thereof with the - coating material, itis recommended that the per forations be formed in' the coated interliner. ' More particularly, the interliner with the con " tinuous coating applied thereto, as taught' by the fortys cotton coated with a thermoplastic res inous material, as described in the above-men tioned Redman patent, is passed through a per 35 forating machine to provide’245 minute perfora tions per square inch through the lining fabric. The interliner with its latently cementitious >but pervious coating is placed between cover cloths _orgouter piles in the usual method of manufac 40 tinjing fused or starchless collars, and the assem bled multi-ply product is subjected to heai'l and pressure to create the desired bond between the lining and cover cloths asgdescribed in theY Red prior? art, fori example. as taught by? the above ` man patent. During the'ironing or pressing oper 45 mentioned Redman patent, YYis provided with a_ ation, ,the slightly; raised portion of the inter-y multiplicity of minute perforations which extend liner which surrounds each perforation and which through the'coatingïand interliner and break up f results from the piercing or punching operationv the continuity lof the surface coating, thereby above referred to, is pressed into the correspond 0 rendering tljre interliner and the products made therefrom flexible and perviousyto both _air and ing perforation to partially but »not 'completely water, and imparting to the fabric the desirable ly ñll the perforation but leaves a ïi’elatively small opening through the interliner at? each perfora characteristics mentioned hereinafter. .c . ' The interiin'er is coated with the desiredf'ce 55' mentitious material in a solvent or in plastic con dition, andrthereafter it‘is êried to form the in-l - soluble, impervious coating as is the practice in the art. The cementitious vmaterial may be any . ofthe types suitable for the manufacture of 6o starchless er fused collars, for example, cellulose acetate with or without a plasticizer. A thermo plasticresinous 'materialffor example, the mix turesof vinyl resins described in the Redman the same, il' e., the material dœs not complete 50 tion, which openings are Y¿not discernible through the cover cloths but render the product sufiicient ly pervious to .-satisfactorily accomplish the 55. objects of the present invention. The small per forations or openings remain in ‘the interliner during repeated launderings but are not appar ent in the finished-article. In, the drawing, the 60 cover clothsareshown at I, the interliner at 2, - with itsvv openings 3. In Figures and 4 the nu :neral 4 designates the ’raised portion which sur rounds each of the perforations made through the interliner by the pin ,on punch 5,- Figure 3 65 tially`non-shrinking and non-stretching before -. _showing the formation of the raised portion dur the application of the cementitious material, as ing the piercing or punching operation, and Fig set forth inthe aforesaid Redman patent. ure x4 'showing the said raised portions after the The multiplicity of minute perforations may be collar'îcas- been ironed or pressed to bond thev cover cloth or cloths to the interliner toi'î‘orce the 70 70 formed through _the coated interliner by any de sired means, for example, by punching or by forc raised portions into the corresponding perform. ingA a number- of pins of the desired shape and size tions to partially but not completely illl the same. ß Patent No. 2,009,139 may also be used. If de j65 rsired, the interliner may be rendered substan ì through the fabric. In either case, the strncture of the interliner will be cutaway at the points of 75 perforation. In addition to rendering the interlining per Yvious and iiexible with the advantages previously The multiplicity of perforations kpointed out, anrincreased bond is afforded be 75 , . _ ‘ 3 tween the cover .cloth or ,cloths and the inter cloth, and pressing said assembled multi-ply liner', due to the fact that the perforations in the lining permit of slight, but invisible, indentations structure to render said coating material cemen titious ’w bond said cover cloth to said inter liner and to force the slightly raised portion ofthe cover cloths therein, as shown in exaggera tion in Figure 4. Each of the cover cloths isse cured to the entire imperforatg,y surface of the .interliner and is also keyed to the interliner ad »I ~ jacent the perforations, this keying of the cover f cloths at the perforations being due to the fact (that thereis a slight but not discernible inden tation or depression in the surface of the inter surrounding each ' perforation into its corre sponding perforation to partially ñll the same so as to leave a multiplicity of small openings through the coated interliner of sufllcient mi-v nuteness as not to be apparent on the face of the cover cloth. ’ l ~ 10 ' 6. I_n the manufacture of multi-ply articles liner adjacent each opening as shown in greatly y such as collars and the like, the method which exaggerated form in Figure 4 ofthe accompany-` comprises (piercing an interliner having a coat ing drawings. _These indentations or depressions ing of latently cementitious, substantially water lmaterially assist _in preventing slippage 'of the insoluble material thereon to produce a vmulti cover cloths with respect to the interliner. It will _plicity of perforations through said coated inter be obvious that when the collaris moistened and liner with a slightly raised portion of the coated' ironed, `the openings 3 will permitthe escape of steam or vapor through the collar and that blis interliner surrounding each perforation, assem~ bling said perforated interliner with a pervious tering of the cover cloths and resulting wrinkling cover cloth, moistening 'said assembled multi-ply 20 thereof will be effectively eliminated. , structure, and applying heat and pressure to _ A It will be understood, of course, that the inven »said assembled multi-ply structure to render-.said tion is susceptible to change or modification as coating 'material cementitious to bond said cover to its details without departing from the scope ' cloth to said interliner and to force the slightly f25 thereof. ' I " \ _ ‘ ' Iraised portion surrounding each perforation into -. its corresponding perforation to partially i111 the 1. The method _of making an interliner forfuse lsaine so as to leave a multiplicity of small open in the manufacture _of multi-ply' articles such as ings through the coated interliner of suilicient collars or the like‘which'comprises applying tou 'minuteness as-not to be apparent on the face v of the cover cloth, said openings rendering the 30 30 a sheet a coating of latently cementitious, sub structure pervious to permit the escape of vapor stantially water-insoluble material, and there I claim: v - » v . . . created therëin during the application of nheat plicity- of perforations each of which is sur and pressure *to the moistened assembled multi rounded by a slightly raised portion ofthe coated ply structure, whereby blistering of the material and resulting wrinkling .of ,the cover cloth are 35 sheet, which portion is> bendable into its corre' sponding perforation to partially ñll the same. eliminated. ' ‘ after providingl said coated 'sheet with a multi ` 2. rI_‘he method of- making an interliner for use> inthe manufacture of multi-ply articles _such as 7. In the manufacture of multi-ply articlesl A collars or the like, which comprises applying to such as collars and the like, the method which lcomprises piercing an interliner having a coating a sheet a. coating of latently cementitious, sub of_ latently ' cementitious, substantially water stantially water-insoluble, thermoplastic mate insoluble, thermoplastic material thereon to pro duce a multiplicity of perforations through said coated vinterliner with. a slightly raised portion ¿of .the coated interliner surrounding each perfo _ rial, and thereafter providing said coated sheet with a' multiplicity of perforations each of which is surrounded by a slightly raised portion of the 45 coated sheet, which portion isl bendable into its corresponding perforation to partiallyA fill thev ration, assembling said perforated interliner with a pervious cover cloth, moistening said assembled _ for multi-ply articles such as collars orthe like, comprising a sheet having a- coating of vlatently multi-ply structure, and applying heat and pres sure to said _assembled multi-ply structure to render said coating material cementitious to bond said cover cloth to said interliner- and to force 50 cementitious and substantially water-insoluble the slightly raised portion surrounding each - same. ~3. As an article of manufacture, an interliner material thereon and having a multiplicity of r. perforations _extending therethrough with slight perforation into its corresponding perforation to ly'raised portions of said coated sheet surround ing each corresponding perforation and extend plicity of small 4openings through the interliner ing outwardly from the surface of said sheet. _ 4. As an article of manufacture, an interliner partiallyilll the same so as to leave, a multi of sufficient minuteness as not to ~be apparent 55 onvthe face of the cover cloth, said openingsl ' rendering the structure pervious to permit the for'multi-ply articles such as collars and the escape of vapor created therein during the ap like, comprising a sheet having a coating of lat- ' plication' ofthea't and pressure to the moistened.' v-60 ently cementitious, substantially water-insolu ble, thermoplastic material thereon and having a multiplicity of _perforations extendingrthere through vwith slightly raised portions of -said coated sheet surrounding each corresponding 65 perforation and extending outwardly from the A o surfa e of said sheet. . assembled multi-ply> structure, whereby vblister ing of thev material and resulting wrinkling of the cover cloth _are eliminated. 8. A multi-ply article "such as a collar-or the like including a cover cloth and an interlinerA therefor, said interliner comprising a sheet hav ing a coating of latently cementitious, substan tially water-insoluble material thereon to bond _ such as collars and the like, the method which - said cover ‘cloth to said interliner when said ' comprises piercing' an -interliner having a coat coating material is rendered cementitious vand 70 ingof latently cementitioussubstantially water-A said coated interliner having a multiplicity of 70 perforations each of which' is partially closed ` insoluble material thereon to produce a multi plicity of perforations~throughsaid coated inter by a portion of the surrounding coated sheetliner with a slightly raised portion ofthe coated Awhich'extends into its corresponding perfora interliner surrounding each perforation, assem-~ tion to produce a multiplicity of small openings _ _75 5. n -the manufacture of 'multi-plyr‘articles .bling said _ perforated interliner with a cover through said interliner of sufllcient minuteness / n 4, ` 23,182,907~ i as not to Alie' apparent on the vvface of the lcover cloth. ' ` _ " 'to said cover cloth and interliner, said coated interliner having a multiplicity of perforations 9. A multi-ply article such as a collar or the each of which is partially closed by a portion of . like including a cover cloth and an interliner. >the surrounding coated sheet which'extends into en' therefor, said 'interliner comprising a sheet hav# ‘ ing a coating of latently` cementitious, substan .tially water-insoluble, thermoplastic materiaî thereon to. bond said cover cloth to said inter ¿ linerv upon tlie .application of -heat andv pressure its corresponding perforation to produce a multi plicity of small openings through said interliner of suñicient minutenes's as not to be apparent on the face of the cover `clot . ‘ SPERBER.