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Патент USA US2133193

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Oct. 11, 1938.
Filed May 19, 1938
[22170 551221" 12am’ :
35‘? mwvém g
Patented Oct. 11, 1938
Hugo Gemignani,‘ Baltimore, Md. "
Application May 19, 1938, Serial No. 208,916
2 Claims.
This invention relates generally to improve
ments in coat construction; and more particular
ly, to an expansible bellows-like construction con
nection in the armhole connection between the
‘ sleeves and the body of a coat.
The main object of the invention is to provide
at the crotch of the sleeve and body of the coat
an expansible construction which will allow the
necessary fullness and freedom of movement for
1° the arms of the wearer whenever required, and
yet be of such character as to preserve accuracy
of ?t and symmetry of appearance during the
ordinary wear of the garment. Bellows pleats,
inserts and other means used heretofore to pro
15 vide for such freedom of arm movement, inevi
tably alter the character of the design and ?n
ished appearance of the coat, since they are out
wardly visible, and therefore limited for use in
sports wear.
A suitable embodiment of the invention is illus
trated in the accompanying drawing, wherein the
improvement is shown as incorporated as a cres
cent-shaped fold in the body of the coat where it
connects with the under section or crotch of the
25 sleeve.
In the drawing:
Figure 1 is a fragmentary rear elevation of a
coat embodying this invention, with the sleeve
(01. 2-93)
the arms'are raised substantially as shown in
Figure 1. The joints in the crotch between the
sleeve and body of the coat are somewhat elastic.
This elasticity in the joint and freedom of move
ment on thebody of the wearer is secured by 55.
forming the crotch between sleeve and coat in
the manner indicated in Figures 2, 3 and 4 of the
Figure 2 of the drawing shows front, back and
side portions III, II and I2 of the coat united in 910
the usual manner to form one of the shoulder
portions of the coat body. , The‘upper'end of this
portion is ?rst out along the curved outline I3 to
form one armhole- The dotted curved line ‘H
merging with the curved line l3 between the 15
points l5 and I6 would indicate the seam edge
of the armhole line of a coat of standard con
struction, and in the present instance, indicates
the crease formed by the crescent-shaped expansi
ble fold 9 used to form, the crotch of the coat. 20‘
In the ?nished coat the curved parts l3 above the
points l5 and I6 appear as a stitched seam in
continuation of a crease l4 formed in the body of
the coat. When the arms are in normal position
this crease and the line of stitching give the same 25
appearance to the improved coat as is present in
a coat of conventional construction.
Figure 3 of the drawing illustrates the parts
shown in Figure 2 with the crescent-shaped fold
connection between the sleeves and the body of 9 formed in the crotch of the armhole. In this 30
the coat;
?nal form of the coat body, the upper parts of
Figure 2 is a fragmentary development of that the coat body between the points l5 and [6 have
portion of the body of a coat cut out to receive been folded around the crease line l4 and have
the end of the sleeve, and showing the body of been pressed flat against the body part of the coat.
the coat as entirely laid out;
It will be observed that the part of the curve I3 35
Figure 3 is a similar view of the parts shown lying between the points l5 and I 6 is considerably
in Figure 2, but with the crescent-shaped fold stretched during the operation of folding around
formed in the crotch thereof and in position to the crease line I4. This folding and stretching is
be sewn to the sleeve of a coat;
» effected by dampening the cloth adjacent the'fold
Figure 4 is a fragmentary section showing the and ironing the crescent~like section 9 about the 40
method of attaching the sleeve of a coat to the crease line I4 while maintaining the other parts of
crescent-shaped fold aforesaid, and also the lining the armhole substantially in the position shown
construction as employed in this coat; and
in Figure 2. In folding the crescent-like section 9
Figure 5 is a fragmentary development of the in this manner, the cloth along the line l3 be
coat and sleeve linings at crotch parts thereof.
tween the points l5 and I6 becomes stretched to 45 \
Referring to Figure 1 of the drawing, the ref
form the longer line or edge l3’, while the cloth
erence numerals 5, 6 and 1 designate, respective
along the crease line [4 becomes somewhat com
ly, the back and sleeves of a coat constructed pressed. After this operation, the crescent
in accordance with the present invention. The shaped part 9 is somewhat elastic in its length
crescent-shaped folds 8 and 9 are formed on those wise direction.
parts of the coat connected to the sleeves in the
The sleeve 1 at its upper end is sewn in the
crotches between the sleeves and the coat. These usual manner to the coat body along the lines I3
folds are formed in such manner as to eliminate above the points [5 and IS. The crotch part of
the pull between the elbows and shoulders of the the sleeve between the points l5 and I6 is sewn to
coat and to prevent the back from riding up when the lower edge l3’ of the crescent-shaped section 55
raised to show the operation of the improved
9. It will be understood, of course, that sumcient
cloth will be allowed to permit the formation of
the seams along the lines of stitching indicated on
the drawing. This operation completes the con
struction of one sleeve element of the coat shown
in Figure 1 of the drawing. Obviously, the other
sleeve 6 will be similarly connected to the coat
The sleeve construction described not only
10 provides for an elastic expansible connection at
the sleeve crotches of a coat, but, by its forma
tion, also eliminates the necessity of taping the
body of the coat around the crotch in order to
prevent stretching thereof. In fact, the tape in
15 this construction must be omitted around the
crotch part of the armhole where the expansible
connection is made in order to present the elas
ticity or lengthwise strength of the crotch in a
manner which distinguishes the present inven
20 tion from everything preceding it.
By reserving the armhole at the crotch, the
possibility of binding or pressure on the part of
the seamed material against the bottom and
rear of the arms is eliminated. Since the pit of
the armhole in this construction is a crease in
stead ‘of a stitched seam, the armhole maybe cut
higher on the garment, thereby adding to the
length of the back and sleeve section with conse
quent, added comfort to the wearer and without
30 causing unsightly wrinkles.
The coat construction just described requires
a corresponding modi?cation of the lining.
shown in Figures 4 and 5, the body lining I‘! is
cut out at the armhole to form a normal seam
line l8 directly opposite the crease line H and
the stitched continuations [3 thereof. Since the
lining material is ordinarily non-stretchable, it
is necessary to use a crescent-shaped insert l9
in the crotch connection between the body lining
l1 and the sleeve lining 20. This insert l9 over
lies the correspondingly crescent-shaped fold 9
between the body and sleeve of the coat proper,
the armhole crotch of the lining being formed
by a stitched seam instead of a crease.
What I claim is:
1. In a coat, a body portion cut to form an
armhole and creased at the lower part of the
armhole to form a crescent-shaped, outwardly
directed fold integral with said body portion and
with its widest part extending downwardly to
ward the back of said body portion, and a sleeve
stitched to the free edge of said fold and to the
curved edges of the armhole extending from the
opposite ends of the crease formed by said fold.
2. In a coat, a body portion cut to form an
armhole and creased at the lower part of the
armhole to form a crescent-shaped, outwardly
directed fold integral with said body portion and
with its widest part extending downwardly to 25'
ward the back of said body portion, and a sleeve
stitched to the free edge of said fold and to the
curved edges of the armhole, extending from the
opposite ends of the crease formed by said fold,
said crease forming a smooth continuation of "3b
the stitched part of the seam between the sleeve
and body portion and extending around the
shoulder from said opposite ends.
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