Патент USA US2133193код для вставки
Oct. 11, 1938. HQ GEMIGNANI I I 2,133,193 COAT CONSTRUCTION Filed May 19, 1938 [22170 551221" 12am’ : 35‘? mwvém g Patented Oct. 11, 1938 2,133,193 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,133,193 coA'r CONSTRUCTION Hugo Gemignani,‘ Baltimore, Md. " Application May 19, 1938, Serial No. 208,916 2 Claims. This invention relates generally to improve ments in coat construction; and more particular ly, to an expansible bellows-like construction con nection in the armhole connection between the ‘ sleeves and the body of a coat. The main object of the invention is to provide at the crotch of the sleeve and body of the coat an expansible construction which will allow the necessary fullness and freedom of movement for 1° the arms of the wearer whenever required, and yet be of such character as to preserve accuracy of ?t and symmetry of appearance during the ordinary wear of the garment. Bellows pleats, inserts and other means used heretofore to pro 15 vide for such freedom of arm movement, inevi tably alter the character of the design and ?n ished appearance of the coat, since they are out wardly visible, and therefore limited for use in sports wear. 20 A suitable embodiment of the invention is illus trated in the accompanying drawing, wherein the improvement is shown as incorporated as a cres cent-shaped fold in the body of the coat where it connects with the under section or crotch of the 25 sleeve. In the drawing: Figure 1 is a fragmentary rear elevation of a coat embodying this invention, with the sleeve . so 35 40 45 50 55 (01. 2-93) the arms'are raised substantially as shown in Figure 1. The joints in the crotch between the sleeve and body of the coat are somewhat elastic. This elasticity in the joint and freedom of move ment on thebody of the wearer is secured by 55. forming the crotch between sleeve and coat in the manner indicated in Figures 2, 3 and 4 of the drawing. - ' Figure 2 of the drawing shows front, back and side portions III, II and I2 of the coat united in 910 the usual manner to form one of the shoulder portions of the coat body. , The‘upper'end of this portion is ?rst out along the curved outline I3 to form one armhole- The dotted curved line ‘H merging with the curved line l3 between the 15 points l5 and I6 would indicate the seam edge of the armhole line of a coat of standard con struction, and in the present instance, indicates the crease formed by the crescent-shaped expansi ble fold 9 used to form, the crotch of the coat. 20‘ In the ?nished coat the curved parts l3 above the points l5 and I6 appear as a stitched seam in continuation of a crease l4 formed in the body of the coat. When the arms are in normal position this crease and the line of stitching give the same 25 appearance to the improved coat as is present in a coat of conventional construction. Figure 3 of the drawing illustrates the parts shown in Figure 2 with the crescent-shaped fold connection between the sleeves and the body of 9 formed in the crotch of the armhole. In this 30 the coat; ?nal form of the coat body, the upper parts of Figure 2 is a fragmentary development of that the coat body between the points l5 and [6 have portion of the body of a coat cut out to receive been folded around the crease line l4 and have the end of the sleeve, and showing the body of been pressed flat against the body part of the coat. the coat as entirely laid out; It will be observed that the part of the curve I3 35 Figure 3 is a similar view of the parts shown lying between the points l5 and I 6 is considerably in Figure 2, but with the crescent-shaped fold stretched during the operation of folding around formed in the crotch thereof and in position to the crease line I4. This folding and stretching is be sewn to the sleeve of a coat; » effected by dampening the cloth adjacent the'fold Figure 4 is a fragmentary section showing the and ironing the crescent~like section 9 about the 40 method of attaching the sleeve of a coat to the crease line I4 while maintaining the other parts of crescent-shaped fold aforesaid, and also the lining the armhole substantially in the position shown construction as employed in this coat; and in Figure 2. In folding the crescent-like section 9 Figure 5 is a fragmentary development of the in this manner, the cloth along the line l3 be coat and sleeve linings at crotch parts thereof. tween the points l5 and I6 becomes stretched to 45 \ Referring to Figure 1 of the drawing, the ref form the longer line or edge l3’, while the cloth erence numerals 5, 6 and 1 designate, respective along the crease line [4 becomes somewhat com ly, the back and sleeves of a coat constructed pressed. After this operation, the crescent in accordance with the present invention. The shaped part 9 is somewhat elastic in its length crescent-shaped folds 8 and 9 are formed on those wise direction. 50 parts of the coat connected to the sleeves in the The sleeve 1 at its upper end is sewn in the crotches between the sleeves and the coat. These usual manner to the coat body along the lines I3 folds are formed in such manner as to eliminate above the points [5 and IS. The crotch part of the pull between the elbows and shoulders of the the sleeve between the points l5 and I6 is sewn to coat and to prevent the back from riding up when the lower edge l3’ of the crescent-shaped section 55 raised to show the operation of the improved 2,133,193 9. It will be understood, of course, that sumcient cloth will be allowed to permit the formation of the seams along the lines of stitching indicated on the drawing. This operation completes the con struction of one sleeve element of the coat shown in Figure 1 of the drawing. Obviously, the other sleeve 6 will be similarly connected to the coat body. The sleeve construction described not only 10 provides for an elastic expansible connection at the sleeve crotches of a coat, but, by its forma tion, also eliminates the necessity of taping the body of the coat around the crotch in order to prevent stretching thereof. In fact, the tape in 15 this construction must be omitted around the crotch part of the armhole where the expansible connection is made in order to present the elas ticity or lengthwise strength of the crotch in a manner which distinguishes the present inven 20 tion from everything preceding it. By reserving the armhole at the crotch, the possibility of binding or pressure on the part of the seamed material against the bottom and rear of the arms is eliminated. Since the pit of the armhole in this construction is a crease in stead ‘of a stitched seam, the armhole maybe cut higher on the garment, thereby adding to the length of the back and sleeve section with conse quent, added comfort to the wearer and without 30 causing unsightly wrinkles. ' The coat construction just described requires a corresponding modi?cation of the lining. As shown in Figures 4 and 5, the body lining I‘! is cut out at the armhole to form a normal seam line l8 directly opposite the crease line H and the stitched continuations [3 thereof. Since the lining material is ordinarily non-stretchable, it is necessary to use a crescent-shaped insert l9 in the crotch connection between the body lining l1 and the sleeve lining 20. This insert l9 over lies the correspondingly crescent-shaped fold 9 between the body and sleeve of the coat proper, the armhole crotch of the lining being formed by a stitched seam instead of a crease. What I claim is: 1. In a coat, a body portion cut to form an armhole and creased at the lower part of the armhole to form a crescent-shaped, outwardly directed fold integral with said body portion and with its widest part extending downwardly to ward the back of said body portion, and a sleeve stitched to the free edge of said fold and to the curved edges of the armhole extending from the 20 opposite ends of the crease formed by said fold. 2. In a coat, a body portion cut to form an armhole and creased at the lower part of the armhole to form a crescent-shaped, outwardly directed fold integral with said body portion and with its widest part extending downwardly to 25' ward the back of said body portion, and a sleeve stitched to the free edge of said fold and to the curved edges of the armhole, extending from the opposite ends of the crease formed by said fold, said crease forming a smooth continuation of "3b the stitched part of the seam between the sleeve and body portion and extending around the shoulder from said opposite ends. HUGO GEMIGNANI.