close

Вход

Забыли?

вход по аккаунту

?

Патент USA US2133225

код для вставки
.Oct. 11, 1938.
W. D. GOODWIN
2,133,225
FOLDER
Filed July 2, 1957
WI TNESSES:
3 Sheets-Sheet
INVENTOR
l
William D. 60001wiry
7vyomwsys.
Oct. 11, 1938.
2,133,225
W. D. GOODWIN
FOLDER
Filed July 2, 1937
3 Sheets-Sheet
2
WITNESSES:
_
BY
_
INVENTOR:
__
Will/2am 11600011111111;
ATTORNEYS. _
‘
Get. 11', 1938.
w. D. GOODWIN
FOLDER
2,133,225
'
Filed July 2, 1957
3 Sheets—Sheet
3
> c ovfii
j
WITNESSES:
v
2/M/
?u)
INVENTOR
I’
I .
William D. Goodwin
-
By \yTlZZZTTOR/VEYS.
Patented Oct. 11, 1938
2,133,225 ’
UNITED STATES
PATENT OFFICE;
2,133,225
FOLDER
William D. Goodwin, Glen Ellyn, Ill., assignor to
Union Special Machine Company, Chicago, Ill.,
a corporation of Illinois
‘
Application July 2, 1937, Serial No. 151,616
5 Claims. (Cl. 112—147)
My invention relates to folders, and especially ward at c, and is included in the seam S. Such
to a folder for infolding the edges or margins of
a strip of fabric into a form suitable for the cen
ter plait of a shirt front or the like, with inclu
5 sion of a reinforcing strip in the infolded mar
gins, if desired._ In my folder, the guidance of
the fabric extends to and even beyond the point
where the infolding of the fabric edges and their
engagement with the reinforcing strip (if used)
are completed, controlling the delivery of the
completed center plait formation as desired, pref
erably substantially into the very plane of feed
of the machine in which the foldedifabric is
sewed. Other features and advantages of the
2O
whose needles can be suitably spaced.
My folder A for forming the (reinforced) cen
ter plait p is illustrated in detail in Figs. II, III,
IV, and V, being shown as of sheet metal con
struction. As a whole, it is arranged on a down
wardslope from right to left toward the asso
ciated sewing machine, and curves in that di
rection: i. e., its curvature is convex upward.
At its delivery end, however, it has a reverse cur~
Vature, so that the fabric is bent substantially
into the plane of feed of the sewing machine
within the folder,-instead of outside it, as is the 15
invention will appear from the following descrip
tion of a species or form of embodiment, and
from the drawings. I have here illustrated and
explained the invention as embodied in a folder
For the main outer fabric strip 1‘, there is a
main guideway F of flat tubular character. At
of the general type represented by U. S. Patents
No. 1,664,079, March 27, 1928, Mann, and
No. 1,765,169, June 1'7, 1930, Mann, where the
its mouth It], the spaced apart lower and upper
walls ll, I2 of this main guideway F are straight
to its full width,-so that the mouth opening is
folder is shown associated with two-needle sew
in effect a straight, narrow slit with rounded cor
ners. The lower or inner wall H is shown as
ing machines for sewing the completed center
plait as it comes from the folder.
2
a construction can readily be sewed on a two
needle sewing machine of any commercial type
case with prior devices.
I
0
projecting some distance beyond the upper or
In the drawings,
outer wall l2, with upstanding sides I3, while the 25
Fig. I is a tilted or perspective view of a rein
upper wall i2 is formed into an upstanding lip
forced center plait stitched to a body fabric, with
M, with beaded edge. Substantially at the mouth
(as de?ned by the lip [4), the upper and lower
guideway walls start to bend downward just in
a section-like edge-on view of the fabrics.
Fig. II is a tilted or perspective view of a cen
3 O ter plait folder embodying the invention, with
portions broken out to show the internal con
struction and con?guration.
Fig. III shows the folder in longitudinal sec
tion, associated with parts of a sewing machine
and with a cooperating body fabric folder.
Fig. IV is a bottom plan view of the center
plait folder.
Fig. V shows a cross-section of the folder,
taken as indicated by the line and arrows V—V
III, and IV. Proceeding alongthe guideway F
to the left from the lip M, the angle of thesev
bends l5, i6,'of the inner and outer walls H, l2
increases, and the locations of the bends shift
further and further inward toward the center
line of the folder; so that as the fabric 1‘ travels
through this guideway F, its margins m are pro~
gressively turned downward and inward, through
a greater and greater angle, and to a greater and 40
40 in Fig. IV. ,
Fig. VI is a side view of a sewing machine
equipped with my folder and with a cooperating
body fabric folder.
side the corners; as shown at M and as readily to
be understood from‘ an examination of Figs. II,
'
.
As shown in Fig. I, the center plait formation
' p consists of a strip of fabric 1‘ with its margins
or edge portions folded inward at m, m and se
cured by parallel seams or rows of stitches s, S.
In this formation p is preferably included a re
inforcing strip of fabric 1', with its edges ex
tending substantially to the very creases of the
folds m, m, and secured by the stitches s, S. As
here shown, the stitches s, S also secure this cen
ter plait p to a width of fabric b, adapted to form
part of the body of a garment. The margin or
edge portion of this fabric b is folded up and in.
greater width: see Figs-II and IV, and compare ,
with one another the cross-sections shown in
~ Figs. II and V. At the lower left-hand end of the
main guideway F, as shown in Figs. II and V, the
margins m, m of the fabric f are folded almost 4;)
?at against the intermediate portion of this
strip 1‘ substantially parallel therewith. As shown
in Fig. II, there are longitudinal central slots ll,
18 in the walls I I, H, to facilitate threading fab
50
ric through the folder A.
For the inner reinforcing fabric strip- r, there
is an inner ‘(or lower) guideway R of ?at tubular
character directly beneath the mainguideway F,
with its rounded corners in the bends I5 of the
10We1.‘ Wall ll of the main guideway. As here 55
2 7
2,133,225
shown, this lower or inner wall ll of the main
guidway F forms the upper wall and the corners
l9 of the inner guideway R, while the lower wall
28 of said inner guideway R is formed by a sheet
ll)
metal plate with its edges secured (as by hard
solder) to the inbent portions of the lower wall
plate II. By virtue of its bends at I6, the outer
wall I 2 embraces the edgesof the inner wall II
and the inner guideway R, and of the fabric strip
,—with portions of said outer wall lying at oppo
acts to expand the reinforcing strip 1' into the I
folds of the main strip f while the latter are con
?ned in said guideway P. The guideway P trans
mits and delivers the folded center plait strip
with the edges of the expanded reinforcing strip
enclosed in its folds and snugly engaged in their
very creases. As shown in Fig. III, a simple edge
folder B is mounted under the center-plait folder
A, to turn upv and fold inward the edge 0 of the
body fabric b, ready to be stitched to the center 10
site sides of the inner Wall,—all as shown in Fig. , plait p as shown in Fig. 1. Such an edge-folder
V. As shown in Figs. II, III, IV, and VI, a guide ‘ B is well-known, and hence requires no descrip
plate 2| with a transverse guide slot 22 and a
tion.
diagonal rounded guide edge 23 for the fabric
For mounting the center-plait folder A adja
strip r is attached to the lower Wall plate 28 of
the guideway R, as by screws 24. Extending up
cent a sewing machine as shown in Fig. VI, the
folder may have av bracket 30 attached to the
lower side of its bottom wall 28, with a trans
around the edge of the plate 2i, down through
the slot 22, then transversely of the folder at the
lower side of the plate, the strip rbends up
20 around the diagonal edge 23, thus in effect mak
ing a 90° turn from its original direction into the
guideway R. This guide-plate 2| is here shown
as substantially like that illustrated in Patent No.
1,765,169 to Mann,'already referred to. While
too wide for the fabric-strip r initially, the inner
screws 32, and provided with a set-screw 33. A
bracket plate 35 is attached to the sewing ma
chine head 36 by means of clamping screws 31
extending through slots 38. An arm 40 is pivoted
to the bracket plate 35 at 4|, to swing up and
down in a vertical plane parallel with the line
associated with a similar concave curvature of
of feed. In a laterally projecting lug 42 on the
arm 48 is a stop-screw 43 for engaging the upper
edge of an arm 45 on the bracket plate 35, and
to the arm 40 is attached a bracket 45 that in
cludes a horizontal bar portion 41 which engages
in the channel of the plate 3| on the folder A.
The bracket arm 45 has a clamp screw 48 that
lies in a notch 49 in the arm 48 and serves to
?x the latter rigid with the bracket plate 35
the bottom wall 20. p This transverse curvature at
when desired.
25 starts a short distance back and gradually in
creases to the end of the inner guideway in Figs.
to the arm 48 by an adjustable clamp screw and ‘
guideway R gradually narrows to a width just
sufficient for this strip 1' when ?at, or even a
little insui?cient. However, the strip r may be
itself contracted in width near the (lower) de
livery end of the inner guideway, by a downward
convex curvature or bend at 25 of the wall I!
extending across its full width, and preferably
II and V.
As will be understood from a com
parison of Figs. II and V, the curvature at 25
S40
versely channeled plate 3| secured thereto by
displaces the middle of the fabric strip- 1 down
ward, and thus draws in its edges slightly out of
contact with the corners I9 of the inner guide
way. The result of this is ‘that both fabrics f
and 1" travel easily to and beyond the end 21 of
the inner guideway R as shown in Figs, II, III,
and V, without any tightness or binding. Just
a little beyond the inner guideway end 21, the
strip 1" quickly expands to its full natural width,
so that its edges engage the fabric, 1‘ at the very
bottom of the creases of its folded margins m, m.
It will be seen from Figs. II and III that the
inner guideway R as constituted by the walls H
and 20 terminates short of the ends of the
outer guideway wall I 2 with'its underbent under
portions 23, which may be united by soldering.
55 In other words, the outer guideway F is supple
mented with a further ?at tubular guideway P
for the completed center plait formation p, this
further guideway P being formed by extension
of the outer wall l2 beyond the inner walls II
The further guideway P transmits the
folded fabric strip- jwith its margins m, m sub
60 and 20.
stantially parallel to its intermediate portion, but
Without any part of the folder structure inter
vening. It is while the center plait p is travel
ing through this further guideway P, with its ‘folds
The bracket 46 may be attached
slot connection 50, which permits the folder A
to be adjusted up and down when desired.
The setscrew 33 in the folder-plate 3| permits
of adjusting the folder A transversely of the line
of feed and stitching, and the screws 31 in the ~20
slots 38 of the bracket plate 35 allow of adjusting
the folder parallel with the line of feed. The
stop-screw 43 affords a delicate up and down
adjustment of the folder A, and the screw 48
when loosened allows the folder to be swung up
out of the way, when not in use.
us .1
The edge folder -
B for the body-fabric may be secured to the work
support 52 of the sewing machine with the usual
provision (not shown) for its adjusment trans
versely of the line of feed. By the adjustments
above described, the folder A can be accurately
set in any desired position relative to the sewing
machine'needles 53 and presser foot 54,—being
shown in Fig. VI close in under the upturned toe
of the presser foot, with the edge-folder B di- ;
rectly under it. When the folder A is swung up
out of the way after loosening the screw 48, the
adjustments are not lost, but remain undisturbed
when the folder is swung back to operative posi
tion as shown in Fig. VI.
Having thus described my invention, I claim:
1. A center plait folder for a sewing machine
comprising a guideway for a center plait strip
including an inner wall at one side of said strip
and an outer wall spaced from said inner wall
and embracing the edges of said inner wall, with
at m, m still con?ned in the latter, that the strip
7' is ‘allowed to expand to full width into said
portions at both sides of the latter, for infolding
folds, as above described.
the margins of the center plait strip toward and
As shown in Figs. II and III, this further guide- ' substantially parallel with the intermediate por
way P has an upward bend at 29, which brings tion thereof; and a further guideway forming a ‘
, its delivery mouth substantially or nearly into the prolongation of the aforesaid outer wall beyond
plane of fabric feed of the sewing machine, so the inner wall for transmitting the thus folded
as to deliver the completed center plait in that
center plaitstrip, without any portion of the
plane. This upward bend of the further guide
75 way P beyond the end of the inner guideway R
folder structureinervening between its infolded
margins and its intermediate portion.
75
2,133,225
2. A center plait folder for a sewing machine
comprising a guideway for a center plait strip in
cluding an inner wall at one side of said strip
and an outer wall spaced from said inner wall
and embracing the edges of said inner wall, with
portions at both sides of the latter, for infolding
the margins of the center plait strip toward and
substantially parallel with the intermediate por
tion thereof; and a further guideway forming a
prolongation of the aforesaid outer wall beyond
the inner wall for transmitting ‘the thus folded
center plait strip, without any portion of the
folder structure intervening between its infolded
margins and its intermediate portion, said further
-' guideway bending upward beyond said inner wall,
so as to deliver the folded center plait into the
plane of fabric feed in the sewing machine.
3. A center plait folder a sewing machine com
prising an inner guideway for a reinforcing strip;
an outer guideway, for a wider center plait strip,
comprising an inner wall at the side of the re
inforcing strip embracing its edges, and thus
enclosing the inner guideway for said strip, said
outer guideway also comprising an outer wall
' spaced from said inner wall but embracing the
edges of the inner guideway, with portions at
both sides of the latter, for infolding the mar
gins of the center plait strip around the edges
of the reinforcing strip; and a further guideway
forming a prolongation of the aforesaid outer
wall of the outer guideway beyond the inner wall
of the latter and the delivery end of the inner
guideway, for transmitting the thus folded center
plait strip with the margins of the reinforcing
- strip‘ enclosed in the folds of the latter.
4. A center plait folder for a sewing machine
comprising an inner reinforcing strip guideway
provided with means at its delivery end for draw
ing in the edges of said reinforcing strip; an
40 outer guideway, for a wider center plait strip,
3
comprising an inner wall at the side of the rein
forcing strip- embracing its edges, and thus en
closing the inner guideway for said strip, said
outer guideway also comprising an outer wall
spaced from said inner wall but embracing the
edges of the inner guideway, with portions at
both sides of the latter, for info-lding the margins
of the center plait strip around the edges of the
reinforcing strip; and a further guideway form
ing a prolongationof the aforesaid outer wall of 10
the outer guideway beyond the inner wall of the
latter and the delivery end of the inner guideway,
for con?ning the folds of the center plait strip
while the reinforcing strip expands therein to
full with, and for transmitting the folded center
plait strip with the edges of the expanded rein
forcing strip' engaged in the creases of the folds.
5. A center plait folder for a sewing machine
comprising an inner reinforcing strip guideway
provided with means at its delivery end for draw 20
ing in the edges of said reinforcing strip; an outer
guideway, for a wider center plait strip, compris
ing an inner wall at the side of the reinforcing
strip‘ embracing its edges, and thus enclosing the
inner guideway for said strip, said outer guide 25
way also comprising an outer wall spaced from
said inner wall but embracing the edges of the
inner guideway, with portions at both sides of
the latter, for infolding the margins of the center
plait strip around the edges of the reinforcing 30V
strip; and a further guideway forming a pro
longation of the aforesaid outer wall of the outer
guideway and bending upward beyond the inner
wall of the latter and the delivery end of the
inner guideway, for con?ning the folds to the
center plait strip and expanding the reinforcing
strip into them, and for delivering the completed
center plait into the plane of fabric feed in the
sewing machine.
WILLIAM D. GOODWIN.
40
Документ
Категория
Без категории
Просмотров
0
Размер файла
586 Кб
Теги
1/--страниц
Пожаловаться на содержимое документа