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Патент USA US2135413

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'
Nov. 1, 1938.
2,135,413
C. ROSENSTEIN
TEXTILE FABRIC AND’METHOD OF MAKING SAME
Filed Dec. 6, 1937
2 Sheets-Sheet l
Nov. 1, 1938.
2,135,413
C._ ROSENSTEIN
TEXTILE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME
Filed Dec. 6, 1937
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2 Sheets-Sheet 2
Patented Nov. 1, 1938
‘ 2,135,413
UNITED STATES
PATENT OFFICE
2,135,413
TEXTILE FABRIC AND METHOD! or MAK
ING SAME
Charles Rosenstein, Paterson, N. J., assignor to
Rosenstein Bros., Paterson, N. J., a partnership
composed of said Charles Rosenstein, Aaron
Rosenstein, and Irving J. T‘uller
Application December 6, 1937, Serial No. 178,412
3 Claims.
(Cl. 139-384)
This invention relates to textile fabrics, par
ticularly fabrics having one or more pleats upon
the surface or surfaces of the fabric, and to
methods of producing such pleated fabrics.
It has long been the practice to make a fabric,
Ol
especially a fabric intended for use in the pro
duction of dresses, millinery, draperies, and
various other goods used for purposes which make
the ornamental appearance of the fabric either
10 necessary or desirable, to provide the fabric with
pleats, fringes, tassels or various other‘, orna
mental features or devices, attached either to the
15 I
attractive ?nished product. Similarly, if it were
intended to apply the design to the fabric after
the attachment of the pleats, the inability to
hold the free ends of ‘the pleats in absolutely
?xed and correct positions for detailed matching '
of the parts of the design on the adjacent pleats
would make it impossible to produce a printed
design on the pleated fabric in this way.
A further limitation upon the production of
pleated textile fabric by the method of sewing the "
pleats to the fabric, as heretofore, is found in the
edge or edges or to one or both of the surfaces of
inability, by the use of the sewing method, to
obtain a pleated fabric in which the pleats them
the fabric.
selves present parallel plain and regular stripes,
'
Heretofore such ornamental elements or de
vices have been applied to the fabric, whether
woven or knitted, ‘by sewing them to the body of
the fabric. This manner of producing the orna
mental fabric has been inconvenient, tedious and
20 otherwise objectionable.
It has increased the
necessary cost of production and the resulting
preferably in the form of fringed edges, inter 15
posed between adjacent woven pleats of notice
ably different appearance, Whether plain or or
namented, by a design‘ or designs applied by
printing, jacquard weaving or in other ways.
One of the principal objects of my invention is
the provision of a textile fabric having a pleat
fabric has generally shown the existence of un
or series of pleats arranged upon its surface or
even joining lines, sewing lines and projecting
surfaces and'interwoven with the fabric.
A further object is the provision of a textile
_ edges, frequently presenting a rough, pieced, un
25 ?nished and unsatisfactory appearance. More
over, the pleats, when so applied, must be spe
cially made and prepared, in advance of their
attachment to the fabric, by separate weaving
or knitting methods, and must be ?nished or
30 hemmed on their edges, all of which slows pro
duction, causes increased cost, and with dif?culty,
if ever, produces fabric of wholly acceptable work
manship and appearance.
Moreover, if the ?nished fabric is intended to
35 have a design upon it, especially a printed design,
it is exceedingly dif?cult, and pratically impos
sible, to apply the design to the ?nished pleated
fabric.
'
The design, to be in any acceptable degree at
tractive, must extend regularly over the surface
of the completed fabric, Whether that surface is
made up of the upper surface of the fabric body
fabric having one or more pleats upon, a surface '25
of the fabric ornamented by printing, jacquard
weaving or by designs applied in other ways.
A further object is the provision of a textile
fabric having one or more pleats formed upon
one or both of its surfaces, interwoven with the 30
body of the'fab-ric and having a fringed edge.
_ A further object is the provision of a textile
fabric having fringed pleats arranged upon a
surface of the fabric and interwoven with the
body of the fabric so‘as to permit the applica ~35
tion of a printed design to the pleated fabric.
A further object is the provision of a pleated
fabric in which the pleats are interwoven with
the body of the fabric, and provided with a printed
design upon the finished pleated fabric, the ap
plication of the design leaving spaced rows of
plain fringe stripes appearing upon the printed
and pleats disposed thereon in spaced relation,
design.
or is presented to the eye as a series of pleats
A further object is a method of producing
pleated textile fabric in which the pleat or pleats 45
are integrally attached to the body of the fabric.
completely overlying and covering the body of
the fabric.
If an attempt were to be made to
apply the design to the body of the fabric and
to the pleats separately, and to subsequently
attach the pleats to the fabric, it would be im
50 possible, at least without a prohibitive amount of
time and labor and waste of material, to secure
a matching of the pleats with the fabric body
7 or with the other pleats in such a way or in
such a degree as to make the ?nished ornamented
55 pleated fabric acceptable asan ornamental and
'
A ‘further object is the method of producing
pleated textile fabric having a pleat integral‘with
the‘ surface of the body’ of the fabric and provided
with’ fringe on the free edge of the pleat.
50
A further object is the method of making
pleated textile fabric'having one or more fringed
pleats integral with the surface of the fabric, the
joining lines of the pleats to the fabric and
fringe being straight, even and smooth.
55
2,135,418
may be formed in, either the warp or the weft,
or if desired, the pleated fabric maybe formed
with the pleats running in different directions,
A further object is a method of producing
pleated textile fabric having a complete and ac
curately matching printed design upon the sur
by placing some of the ?oat threads in the warp’
1
These objects are attained by the fabric and and others inthe weft. In order to, complete
the method ‘of making it which are disclosed the formation of the pleats the ?oat threads,
after being formed, in warp and/or weft, (as;
herein and which constitute my invention. 7
The method, generally speaking, comprises the shown in Fig. 3), are then cut, and, if formed, upon
face of the pleated fabric.
weaving. of a double cloth, which may be done ,, the, rear surface, are drawn through the fabric
10 by ordinary weaving methods except that ?oat
‘from the rear to the front surface 4.
The cut
10
threads are formed upon the front and/or rear ting releases one edge'of each pleat 6, permitting '
surface of the fabric, cutting the ?oat threads, , it to hang freely upon the surface of the fabric,
from its point of attachment 1 with the body of
preferably upon the‘ completion of the weaving op
’
eration, and, when the ?oat threads are formed , the fabric. The pleat is thus formed integrally,
15 on the rear surface of the fabric, pulling vthem with the fabric “body and interwoven and inter 15
through the fabric. The result, on whichever locked with it at intervals, in the course of and
as an incident to the weaving process resulting
face of the fabric the ?oat threads appear'be
fore they are cut, is that at least one surface in therformation'of "the double cloth. When out
of the fabric has upon it a series of integrally at-. the ?oatthreads appear on the edge of each pleat i '
tached pleats, each of which has a row of fringe as a'fringe 8. By this method of forming the 20
along its free edge. If a printed design is applied pleats and>'fringe, there is no unsightly line of
to the fringed‘ pleats, it is put on before the jointure of the pleat to the body of the‘fabric, and . a
the fringe,"due to the ‘manner in which is'it formed
float‘ threads-are cut, not only because it is prac
during the weaving operations, is straight and
'tically'impossible to obtain an accurate match
ing of the design on the'pleats by applying the
'25
This “fringe is preferably plain and devoid of.
design when the ends of the pleats are free, but
even.
‘
‘
'
also because, when the ‘?oat threads which form' any printing on'the front surface of the fabric, '
the edge of the pleats are formed on the rear,
instead ‘of the front, surface‘ of'the fabric, the
as when the ?oat threads have been ‘formedon
the rear surface 3, but may bear a part of the
application of the vdesign before the cutting‘of
printed design ill, by forming the ?oat threads 80
on the top or front surface 4, to which the printed
design is affixed. (See Figs. 5, 6, 7, and '8.) When
the edge of the printed pleat, which is not ob- ' ‘the fringe-8 has been obtained fromv?oat threads
tained vwhen the float threads are formed only 2 formed on the rear surface of the cloth (as
on the upper, surface fabric because the printing in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and'4), it overlies. and overlaps
of the design then extends over the ?oat threads the next adjacent pleat -6 (or the body of the
and fringe formed from those threads, as well fabric, in the event that the pleats'are so ar
as over the surface of the pleats themselves and ranged as to be spaced apart and reveal a portion
over any portion of the bodyof the fabric which of the body of the fabric between the fringe and
may, by the selective arrangement of the pleats the point of ‘attachment 1 of the next adjacent A
upon the‘ fabric, .be left. exposed between the pleat 6). vIn thiscase, if the pleats havea printed ,
, the ?oat threads produces therdesirable orna
mental effect of a plain unprinted fringe along
edges of adjacent pleats.
design 10 upon them, the fringe 8 appears‘as
'
a plain stripe upon a background of the printed
The nature of the pleated fabric and the meth
design. (See Fig. 1.) 'On the other hand, if the
fringe is formed by ?oat threads 2 upon the
upper surface 4, and a design l0 applied to that
' 0d of producing it will be clearly understood from
the following description, taken in connection
with the drawings, in which
.
surface by printing, the fringe stripes do not
appear, the design extending over the fringe 8.
Figure 1 is a top plan view of a piece of pleated
fabric made vby'and in accordance with my pre
as well as-the pleats 6.
' fe’rred, method, a portion of the fabric being
shown in uncompleted condition.
Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the piece of
fabric illustrated in Fig. 1,
Fig- 3 is a transverse sectional view‘ of the
piece of 'fabric illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2', taken
on'lin'e 3-3 of Fig. 2 and showing the fabric be .
fore the cutting of the ?oat threads,
Fig.4 is arview similar to Fig. 3, after the ?oat '
threads are cut,
be printed uponthe upper surface 4 of the‘
?nished 'pleated'fabric, it should be applied while
the fabric is in its original condition, before the
cutting operation, .While the ?oat threads 2 are 7
intact upon the rear .(or front) surface of the
cloth.
,
'
p is to be further understood, however, that'my
It
, invention, as it pertains either to the plea-ted
.Fig. 5 is a top plan view, similar to Fig. 1, of
a piece of pleated fabric made by a modi?ed
or alternative method,
' r
.
6 isaview similar to Fig. 2, of the fabric
shown in Fig. 5, and
'
It is to be understood that, ifja design I0 is to
'
r
7 - Figs. 7 and 8, are views similar to Figs. 3 and 4,
showing the fabric illustrated in Figs. 5 and?.
' respectively before and after the cutting of the
fabric or the method, of producing it, is not limited
to pleated fabric. ornamented by printing, ‘since _
the ornamentation of the pleated fabric may be
effected in other ways, for example, by the weav
ing of Jacquard designs, stripes, colors and other
effects into the surface of the pleats and/or body
of the fabric. My invention contemplates ‘and 35
consists of pleated fabric of the character de
scribedvand my novel method 'of producing it,
Whether'the pleats are on'one or both‘ sides of '
. In order to produce the pleated fabric illus
tratedjn the .drawings' as preferred specific’em
the fabridwhether the pleated fabric has fringe,
*bodiments of my invention; a double cloth is] 1 vupon its pleats, or has plain edges and Whether v,
‘ .wovenby any suitable 'weaving‘methods‘ and.ap-'
itis ornamented ,by printed or woven designs, or’
iparatus, the weaving being carried on in such
is wholly-devoid of such designs;
a'waygas 'to'leavey?oat threads 2 upon one of
the surfacea'preferably the rear surface 3 of
the body 'I ofthe; fabric. These ?oat threads
fabrichas a design or other ornamentation 'ap
It will be observed that, whethertheepleated‘ '
plied to its surface or not, the surface of the
at
3
2,135,413
fabric presents a neat and attractive appearance,
with invisible joining lines 1 between the pleats
6 and body I of the fabric, and straight, regular
and even fringe lines ll, I2, the straightness of
line ll between the fringe 8 and pleat 6 being
produced by and as the result of the well known
Weaving operations, and the edge line I2 of the
fringe 8 being given straightness and evenness by
cutting the ?oat threads 2 in a straight line, pref
erably close to the junction point ‘I, by hand or
any of the well known cutting apparatus adapted
for this purpose.
I claim:
1. The method of forming woven fabric hav
15 ing fringed pleats upon a surface thereof which
comprises weaving warp and weft threads to
form a body and a superimposed layer of fabric
interlocked with said body at intervals and
formed adjacent alternate interlocks with a series
20 of spaced parallel ?oat threads, and cutting said
?oat threads adjacent said alternate interlocks
to form fringed pleats on a surface of said fabric.
2. The method of forming woven fabric having
fringed pleats upon a surface thereof which com
prises weaving warp and weft threads to form a
body and a layer of fabric superimposed on one
side of said body and ?oat threads upon the op
posite side of said body interlocking said super
imposed layer with said body at intervals, ap
plying a printed design to the surface of said
body and superimposed layer on the surface of the
fabric opposite to the surface upon which the
?oat threads are formed, and cutting the ?oat
threads adjacent one end thereof and drawing the
severed ?oat threads through said body to form
fringed pleats attached to the fabric and lying
substantially against the printed fabric surface.
3. Woven textile fabric having pleats integral 15
ly attached to a surface of the fabric, said pleats
having integrally-formed fringe upon an edge
thereof and having a printed design upon the
surface of said pleats, said fringe being without
said design and appearing as a plain line be
tween the portions of said printed design appear
ing on adjacent pleats.
-
CHARLES ROSENSTEIN.
20
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