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Патент USA US2403694

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July 9, 1946» 4
w. c. vlzARD
Filed Feb. 7, 1944
' 2,403,694
Patented July 9, 1946y l'
‘ UNITED .STATES ' v11A-¿15..lg-15,314,'
Y _William`C.` Vizard,`Brockton, Mass., assigner to ,
Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass.; a '- ‘
G; Barbour,
and Richard
of PerleyE.
H. Barbour`
f, ' ‘
À‘ilplication February. 7, 1944, Serial,No.>5-2V1,È1IG4
2 .
’ This' inventionrelates to shoe welting and per
tains Lmore particularly to improvements in pre'- Y
obviousiybe' made of different materials, if de'
'sired. ' For example, the "top layer may be of grain `
leather and the bottom layer of >less expensive
formed, two-ply welts vand their methodv of manu~
leather orl of felt, paper or plastic material.
Either layer vmay be made of laminated sheets, 'if
The principalv purpose of the invention is to
produce 'a two-ply or laminated welt which ‘is '
molded to serve the purpose of GoodyearV _welting
but avoids the necessity of grooving or beveling
of the Welt strip, while providing a proper con
tour at the inseam'edge; which may be built into
a shoe with a minimum of beating to afford a
tighter seam and a wider welt extension than
> The improved process of manufacture involves
the superposition of ` a pair of relatively thin, .
flexible welt strips, one preferably narrower than ~
the other, cementing together the welt extension y
inch'k thick when superposed.A vThe top ply is
wider than the bottom ply; layer I I being 1/2 inch
and layer I2 fé; inch in width, to produce a pre
formed welt suitable for use in place of standardy
Goodyear welting. This arrangement obviously
>which may be economically manufactured from
sole stitch without cutting the inseam.
approximately ?ginch each, as shown, or of dif
Vferent" thicknesses, to produce a two-ply welt gli
that provided by standard Goodyear welting; and
leather splits or thin sheets of other material>
suitable for welting.
A further object is to provide la welt having’a
molded inseam flange which is substantially
thinner than the welt extension, permitting the
inseam stitch to be pulled closer tothe lip of thel
insole of the shoe„ and secured> by the usual out
“'The'twoi ylayers "may be' of uniformthickness,
affords an economy of leather, as compared with
single ply standard half inch welting.
The two layers are superposed and cemented
together under pressure with their inseam mar
gins bent downwardly relative to the welt ex
tension I3, rto form a depending inseam ñange I4
as shown vin Fig. 3. In the preferred method of
manufacture, the flat extension portions I3 are
Vfirst cemented together, and the inner margins or '
lips I5 -and I6 are then bent downwardly and
firmly bonded by cement, to fo-rm an arch which
portions thereof, and then kbending downwardly
effectively unites the lips and holds the flange in
its folded position.
In the preferred form illustrated in Figs. 4 to 6,
the opposed surfaces of the respective layers 2l
and 22 are cut away along their inner margins
flange which provides the desired inclination and
to form thinner and morelflexible lips 23 and 24
a crease for the inseam stitch, without beveling
respectively, and thus reduce the thickness of
the top or grooving the bottom of the welt.` In
the preferred method, opposed surfaces of the l the inseam flange 25 of Fig. 6. As shown, a tri
angular s'ection of stock has been removed at 26
respective strips are cut away along the inseam
margin, so that the molded inseam flange is sub-~ I (A from beneath the inner margin or lip 23 yof the
top ply; and a rectangular section of stock has
stantially thinner than the welt extension.
been removed at 21 from the upper side of the
Recommended embodiments of the invention
ply along its inner margin or lip 24. Al
are illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in
though it is usually desirable that one of the lips
Fig. 1 is a perspective View of a welt strip used »Á be thicker at its edge and thinner at its fold line,
a's is the lip 23, the size and direction of the cuts
for the upper ply ofthe improved Welt;
may obviously be varied to suit particular condi-,p
and cementing the inner margins of the two
strips, under pressure, to provide an inseam
Fig. 2 is a similar view of the lower ply;
Fig. 3 is a perspective View of one form of the
two-ply, molded welt;
In any event, the inseam flange 25, formed by
superposing, folding and cementing the t'wo plies
Figs. 4 and 5 are views similar to Figs. 1 and 2 45 as aforesaid, is substantially thinner than the
showing welt strips cut away along their inseam
welt extension 28'of. the premolded welt, espe->
margin, in Vaccordance with a modified and
cially at the inseam stitch line which follows the
preferred form of the invention; and
crease 29 of the folded flange. The flange 25
Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the modified
50 thus fits closely under the feather of the insole
form of the two ply molded welt.
of the shoe to which this welting is applied, per
In the particular form of the invention illus
mits the inseam stitch to be pulled closer to the
trated vin Figs. l to 3, the improved welt is com
lip ofthe insole and prevents the outsole stitch
posed of a top layer Il and a bottom layer I2
of the finished shoe from cutting the inseam
of relatively thin leather or other flexible mate
rial suitable for welting, and the two plies may 55
stitch of the welt.
When the improved, preformed welt is stitched
to a lasted upper in accordance with the custom
ary Goodyear welting process, the welt exten
` sion projects outwardly along the sides of the
shoe and the toeportion thereof may be easily
flattened.> As the fibres of the inseam lips have
been stretched at the v'fold of the ñange by bend
ing them downwardly under pressure, internal
strain on the welt during the welt turning and
beating operations is substantially eliminated,
and only sufficient rolling or beating to flatten
the underside of the Welt extension i-s required
to prepare the welted shoe for bottom finishing
and outsoling. The distortion and damage Vto
the shoe, frequently caused by the ordinary welt
beating operation, is thus obviated by the use of
the improved welt in shoe manufacture.`
I claim:
constituting a guide for the inseam stitch, the
-lower layer of the welt being narrower than the
upper layer.
3. Preformed welting comprising upper and
lower layers cemented together, the inner mar
gins of both layers being bent downwardly rela
tive to the welt extension 'to form 4a permanently
depending inseam flange, the crease of the fold
constituting a guide for the inseam stitch, said
flange being thinner at the stitch line than said
welt ‘ e'iìtension.
_4. A method of making preformed welting
’which consists in superposing and cementing to
gether two Ílayers of Welting material, while leav
ing the inner margins thereof uncemented, then
bending said margins downwardly and cement
' in'g them together to form a permanently depend
ing inseam flange.
5. A method of making preformed welting
lower layers cemented together, the inner mar 20 which consists in cutting away the surfaces of
gine of both layers being bent downwardly rela-_
the margine, of a 'pair of welt strips on 'one side
tive to the welt extension to form a permanently
of each strip, superposing the two strips with
1. Preformed welting comprising upper and
depending inseam flange, the crease or the fold
the cut away portions opposed to each other, ce
constituting a guide for the inseam stitch.
menting together the uncut portions of said layà
2. Preformed welting comprising upper and 25 ers, and then bending down and cementing to
lo'wer layers cemented together, the inner mar
gether said margins to form a depending inseam
gins of both layers being bent downwardly rela~
flange :which is thinner than the body of the welt.
tive to the welt extension to form a permanently
depending inseam flange, the crease or the fold
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