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Патент USA US2403773

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July 9, 1946.
w.‘ c. VIZARD
Original Filed Feb. 7, 1944
v 03373084328553
Patented July 9, 1946'
' 2,403,113
vu1'j~1_*1'-1‘"r.1) 'Z'STATES ~ ‘PATENT OFFICE
William 0- Vimrd, :Brockton- Masssassignor to
Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, _Mass., _a
' .copartnershipfcomposed of .Perley E. Barbour,
Walter G. Barbour. and Richard‘ M. Barbour
Original application February '7, 1944, SerialNo.
521,465. Divided and this application Febru
at! ‘Z, 1946, Serial No. 646,183
2 Claims; (01.‘36-18‘)
I'n’the form shown in Fig. 1,' the welt strip ll
T'I‘his inventionlrelates to shoe welting-fandper
tains more particularly to improvements in pre
formed welts and their methodof manufacture.
1111s application is a divisionof my co-pending
consists of a single ply of grain leather or other
suitable welt material, of standard size for Good
year welting, oneehali inch wide by one-eighth
inch thick and’ of any desiredglength. The'mar
agiiiication ‘,SerialNo. 521,465, ?led February 7,
gin-of the ‘strip along the siderto' be used as the
inseam~ edge is. slit ‘longitudinally vby. "an. angular
The principal purpose of the invention is to
cut v.12 extending upwardly eithedongitddinal
produce a molded weltwhich will serve the .pur;
poses of .',Goodyear 'welting yet which eliminates
the wgrooving and beveling of the ordinary Good
year weltywhich provides a ‘proper contour at
the inseam edge, and which may be built into‘ a
shoe with a minim-um} of beating to afford a tightl
er seam while furnishing a Wider welt extension
flesh edge, from a line adjacentthe bottom .015v
thefstrip to within: ch50 inchsor the top or grain
surface, and-thenfparalleluto said surface for a
5 distance approximate-1y s1; inch, at [3, tofOr-m-a
beveled lowerli-p l4 andat?ahgular shaped up
per lip is.
A further object is to produce a welt having
a molded inseam ?ange which is substantially
_ : hese lips-‘are-then bentdownwardly-andbonth
than that that ordinarily provided by standard.
Goodyear welting,
ed together under pressure, after applying a suit,
able cement between the opposed lips, to form
' the depending inseam ?ange l6 of the premolded "
welt shown in Fig. 2. It will be appreciated that
the slitting of the inseam edge and the reunion
of its separated lips not only facilitates the bend;
ing of the ?ange, but also ensures that the ?ange
thinner than the Welt extension, permitting the
inseam stitch to be pulled closer to the lip of
the insole of the shoe and preventing the Good
year outsole stitch from cutting the inseam.
thus formed will hold its shape because of the »
The improved process of manufacture involves
bridging action afforded by the slight displace
cutting the inseam edge of a standard-size Good
year welt strip, to provide a pair of ?exible lips, 25 ment of the respective lips relative to each other
and preferably channeling the flesh’ body between
then bending the lips downwardly and cementing
during the bending operation. _
'It will also be observed that the “upper or grain
surface of the welt continues over the inseam
them together under pressure to form a pre-.
?ange, thus avoiding the objectionable appear
the lips to afford a relatively thin inseam edge,’
molded ?ange which provides the desired inclin
ance of a skived and beveled inseam margin which
ation and a crease for the inseam stitch without
is frequently characteristic of a standard Good
beveling the top orgrooving the bottom of the
year welt when built into a shoe. The welt ex
tension I‘l afforded by the improved, premolded
welting is, moreover, approximately 31: inch wider
Recommended embodiments of the invention
are illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in 35 than that of ordinary grooved and beveled Good
year welt as usually applied to a shoe,
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a welt strip in
The inseam ?ange I6 will ?t closely under the
cised at its inseam edge in accordance with the
feather of the insole of a shoe to which this welt
improved method, to provide a pair of inseam
ing is applied; the crease l8 serves as a guide for
the inseam stitch; the welt extension of the
Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the premolded
stitched welt projects outwardly from the shoe
welt formed by bending down and cementing said
along/its sides, and the toe area is easily flattened,
and only su?icient welt rolling or beating to‘ ?at
Fig; 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 showing'a
ten the underside of the welt extension is required
modi?ed and preferred form of welt strip in
in preparing the welted shoe for bottom ?nishing
which the body of the strip has been channeled
‘and outsoling, for the ?bres of the inseam lips
between the incised lips; have been stretched atlthe fold of the ?ange I6,
Fig. 4 is'a view of the preferred Welt made by ' substantially eliminating residual strain on the
bending and cementing the lips of Fig. 3;
welt during the welt-turning and beating opera
Fig. 5 illustrates a further modi?cation mwhich
tions. It is well known that the ordinary opera
the welt strip is composed of laminated sheets;
tion of welt beating is an extremely critical step '
Fig. 6 is a fragmentary sectional view of the toe
portion of a welted shoe, prior to bottom ?lling
and soling.
in shoe manufacture, and that excessive or im
proper heating is a primary cause of damaged,
distorted or defective shoes. This danger is sub
stantially obviated by the use of the welting here
Fig. 6 illustrates the application 01' the pre
‘in disclosed.
molded welt II to an un?nished shoe, in accord
ance with the customary Goodyear welting proc
These advantages are more pronounced when
the preformed welt is made as shown in Figs. 3
and 4, which provides an inseam ?ange'substan
tially thinner at the stitch line than the welt
proper, thereby permitting the inseam stitch to be
pulled closer to the lip of the insole and prevent
ing the outsole stitch from cutting the inseam
ess. As previously pointed out, the welt is of
such contour that the inseam ?ange l8 readily
?ts beneath the feather of an insole 3| having
a normally channeled inseam lip, with the welt
' extension I‘! projecting outwardly from the lasted
upper 32, and the inseam stitch 33 pulls the ?ange
stitch of the welt.
1,0 tightly toward the lip of the insole so that the
In accordance with this preferred- method, the‘ I stitch is'well hidden within the seam. Because
edge out inclines upwardly at an angle of about.
40°, as at 2|, from the lower corner‘of the inseam
edge approximately ale inch, then parallel to the
base of the welt about 1% inch at 22, then verti l5
of the novel-formation of the ?ange and the uni
form appearance of the top of the welt, and or
dinary half inch welt may thus be attached with
rial between the ‘lower lip 26 and upper lip 21
cemented ‘together to form a depending inseam
?ange, the crease of the fold serving as a guide
a full width welt extension.
cally upward .040 inch at 23, outwardly 1% inch at .
- I claim:
, 24, and downwardly at 25 to the ?rst cut. These
' '1. Preformed welting comprising a welt strip
cuts free a rectangular string of material which
having a longitudinal slit along its inseam edge
to provide a pair of lips, said lips being folded
is removed and discarded or used elsewhere, and
form a channel in the‘ body of the welt mate 20 downwardly relative tov the welt extension and
thus, produced. The two lips are folded down
wardly'and cemented together as above described
to formjthe inseam ?ange 28 of Fig. 4.
for the inseam stitch.
2. Preformed welting comprising a welt strip
' ~Weltin'g made in accordance with either illus 25 having a longitudinal slit along its inseam edge
trated form of this invention may be composed
to provide a pair of lips, said lips being folded
of‘ laminated strips of thin leather or other ?exi
downwardly relative to the welt extension and
ble material suitable for welting, such as ?brous,‘
cemented together to form a depending inseam
plastic,'or paper sheets, or combinations of such
?ange, the crease of the ,fold serving as a guide
materials, as indicated in Fig. 5. Such lami 30 for the inseam stitch and said ?ange being sub
nated strips may be edge slit as in Fig. l or 3, and
‘ stantially thinner at the stitch, line than the welt
7 it -'will be understood that the length and direc
tion of the slits or cuts may be varied to suit
particular conditions without departing from the
~essence of this invention as de?ned in the ap
pended claims.
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