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Патент USA US2404546

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Patented July 23, 1946
v2,404,546
‘ UNITED STATES lPATENT. ¿çogF’FIcE _
METHOD oF MAKING SHOES
Karl A. samer, Nahant, Mass.,.assignor to United,
Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J .,'
a corporation of New Jersey
Application July 14, 194.5, Serial N0. 605,068
7 claims. (c1. 12-142>
l
. ,
`
2
. This invention relates to methods of making
suitable for exposure in the finished shoe. YSuch
shoes `and V,particularly shoes,vv having open rear
ends and heels which are trimmed after attach
ment thereto such, for example, as leather heels.
In shoes of the open-heel type, the rear part
materials, however, are not usually available and,
accordingly, as a further aspect of the method, the
quarter lining is made to extend toward the- sole
of the shoe upper `may be entirely lacking or may ~ Y
secured.y thereto a piece of material with its iin
ished side out and of a quality to provide a suit
only part Way acrossftheheel opening and' has
consist only of an ankle strapor a strap extend-ing about the rear end of the foot above the bulge
of the heel. YThe heel-seat portion of the insole
of such shoes is left without support, that is,
Without anything to hold it- against the bottom of
the, last. This condition renders di?iicult’not only
the location of the shoe and heel relatively to
Thispiec'ed quarter lining or extension of the
strap >lining is lasted over the heel-seatv portion
Vof the insole, thus providing in eiiect a complete
upper in the rear part ofv the shoe. Then, after
are attached to such a shoe, the trimming of the
heel and the other operations, such as vscouring
and iinishing, are renderedv especially dìfñcult
becauseV the pressure of the heel against the trim
ming cutter or the, other iinishing tools causes 20
lining is severed alongl a line substantially par
allel to the planeiof the heel- and spaced height
wise off the heel of the shoe therefrom sufficient
ly to provide enough of that portion of the lining
material which is right side out to cover the edge
face and marginalportion of the inner face of
able cover'for the rear end of the- insole. v
an outsole` and an untrimmed heel are attached
and the heel trimmed and finished, including
each other and the attachment of the heel, but «
also, after an outsole and an untrimmed heel 15 slugging` of the» top-lift if desired, the quarter
thesoles to bend at the breast line and the insole
.to separate from the last bottom, accurate trim
ming and ñnishing of the heel being thus- ren
.dered difficult or impossible.
Objects of this invention are to provide a meth 25
the insole. This lining material is then laid over
tlie inner face of the insole and attached thereto
by' cement, its marginal portion being pinked if
necessary to cause it to lie iiat without wrinkles.
The remainder of theV lining material extending
from the'strap (ifl a strap is used) ‘into the heel
opening'is trimmed iiush with the lower edge oi
thestrap, resulting in a >finished open-heel shoe
od 'by which an untrimmed heel on a shoe having
an open heel end may be accurately located, at
tached', trimmedI and iinished, and to improve the
lqualityof this type of shoe.
,
.
»
Ywith-a properlyV located, attached, trimmed and
In practising the Vmethod-of the present in- ‘
vention„ the quarter lining of the shoe is made
ñ-nished heel.
to the shoe, the heel. trimmed, scoured and iin
Aished while the insole is heldtightly against the
last by the lasted lining and then aV portion of
the'- lining is utilized to cover the edge face and
kmarginal portion of the insole about the heel-seat.
.
‘
,
f
Fig’. 1 is a perspective view of. the- rear portion
of> a shoe 'being made in accordancey with the
present invention and> showing a complete «quar
of sufficient extent heightwise to enable its lower
portion to be lasted over the heel-seatv portion of
the insole.; The lower portion of the lining is then
lasted over the heel-seat of the insole in the usualv
manner, an outsole and untrimmed- heel attached
.
In the drawing,
tov extend about the Vrear end of the last and is
ter lining lasted over the heel-seatv portionof an Y
`
insole;
-
`
'
Fig.. 2 is a similar view of a shoe' after a sole
and an'- untrirnmed heel'have been attached to
the shoe and the heel partially trimmed;
I
vlï‘hîgï. 3 is a perspectiveY View of the shoeY after
’ theïheel hasbeen trimmed and iinishe'd, the last
_consists merely of a strap extending about the
removed and the upper portion of the quarter
lining? trimmed away; and
- rear end of the foot above the bulge of the heel,
' g „Figi 4 is a similar view showing ther utilization
In case the upper at the rear end of Vthe'shoe
the upper .portion- of the quarter lining will be»
utilized to line the strap and, of course, the right
or finished side of thev lining will >be exposed in
, side the shoe and the unfinished side of the lining
of tlïie» lower portion of a Iquarter lining asa cover
for the heel-seat portion-oi the insole.
- In carrying out the method of the present Y
invention, as` herein illustrated,
upperV I0 -is
prepared' as shown in Fig. .1, mounted upon a "
exposed in the region of the open heel. There
fore, the portion used tocover the edge face'and' Í last" |12, and 'the shank and forepart lasted in- any
y usli'al vr'iiannerï, a shoe of welt construction being
marginal portions of the insole will- be wrong
side out. _This construction, however, would be
acceptable if the lining were- of reversible-ma
‘Y indicated»
the' drawing. «In' the finished shoe
the rear part of the upper may consistt only of _a
renal, that is, if either side of the materiai were §55' strap» I4 extendin'gêaboutithe' heel `end oi the' last
2,404,546
1-
'Y
end of the insole, as above described. The re
mainder of the quarter lining which extends rear
wardly beyond the shoe upper will be trimmed
above the Ärearward bulge of the heel. In this
case the upper and lower edges of the strap are
finished and the strap has a lining lßof usual
quarter lining material such as kid leather with
its iinished face inside of the strap and secured
thereto by lines of stitching I8 as usual. By the
present ,methodgthè 'strap lining-'116 ‘ is ’extended
f‘
away to provide a shoe having a completely open
5 l heel end.
Having thus described my invention, what I
i ¿claim as new and desire toV secure by ¿Letters Pat
» *
downwardly" into" whatv` will eventually bev th'e ' ent of the United States is: »
1. That improvement in methods of making
opening at the heel end of the shoe. Tothe lower
portion of the lining IB is secured in any suita-Í '10 shoes which comprises providing an open-heel
ble manner, for example by zigzag'stitches 2l)v y l upper with a complete quarter lining, assembling
as shown, a piece of material 22 with its iinished' ' the upper on a lastl with an insole, lasting said '4
lining to the heel-seat >of the' insole, attaching a
'side out and suitable for binding the edge'portion y
of the rear part of an insole~24 which‘isfto’be' ex
"'heel »to the shoe, trimming and~ finishing the
posed in the heel opening. This piece 22 is wides "15‘fh'eel‘ while the insole is held in place on the last
bottom Vby the lasted quarter lining, and utilizing
enough so that it can be lastedover’the‘fheel
a portion of the quarter lining to cover the edge
seat portion 0f the insole 24 and secured thereto
in any usual manner, for example by tacks 26 as l '
face of the insole where it would otherwise be ex
shown inV Fig. 1. The pieces lß and 22 together
posed in the finished shoe.
É'constitute ¿al complete quarter. lining the lower
» Y2. 'That improvement. in methods of making
marginal portion ofl which can be worked `over
v'and securedV to theouter face of the'insole', thus
holding Íthe rear yportion of the shoe ,tightly
shoes which comprises attaching toanextended
V.against the bottom ofthe last l2, thefcondition
an insole on a'f-last, lasting' the liningl over >the
strap >lining. material suitablepfor .covering'zthe
rear- end of an insole, assembling theiupper and .
at lthe rear end of the shoeKFig. 1) being thus 25 heel-seat of the insole, attaching a sole'and an
lrendered similar to that of ashoe having a com
‘ untrimmed heel to, the shoe, trimming the heel,
plete upigleréwith- the heel-seat lasted in the> usual
removing a portion of the lining below the strap
manner. *After- attachment of an outsole t28 inV
and-above a line parallel to theinsolevand spaced
any usual manner, the location .and attachment . Y above itto provide material ïtobe laid over the
"of an -untrimmed -heelill,„which are the next 30 marginal portion of the inner face of the'insole,
steps, are facilitatedby’having the insole thus
and laying said material overlandsecuringit to
vheld tightly in place -against the 'last~ v After at
the insole.
`
.
,
tachment of the heel, it is trimmed,vscoured.and
` 3. That improvement »in methods .of >making
ïiinished andgifdesired, slugs 32 may be inserted . ¿slopen-heel ¿shoes which comprises y providing a
through'the top-lift. These operations can be
quarter liningattachingjto the quarter lining a .
>"carried vout with the same Y‘facility~ asV theyare
upon afshoe having a complete upper at theA heel
piece» of -material suitable` for coveringïthe Yrear
i end of an insole, assembling. the upper- and an
insole on a last, lasting the liningover vthe heel
‘ V»After the usual-fmishing operations lon the heel
seatfof Ythe insole, attaching a sole and an un
--and sole are completed, the last is removed and 40 trimmed heel' to »the shoe, trimming the heel,
~`end.ï
..
.
„
,
„Y
Y
i
_
`*the part22 of the lining'cut below its attachment
removing the', lining' above a line'p'arallel to the
to Vthe ÍpieceVv HS,"Y for example along the dotted
insole andV spaced heightwi'selfrom'it to` provide _
i material to be laid over the marginal portion of
' lineBIlïin'Fig. 2 parallel `to the .plane of the insole
~ and: located ï'above- -it ' »sufficientlyy to » provide a
the-inner face of the inso1e,-and laying said mate
`‘cover for the edge facefand upper marginal .por- 45' rial over and securing' itttothe insole.
i
portionpf the i v4.«That improvement in methods of making
jtion‘ of- the.' insole. The Yexposed
'
lining i6 is "trimmed vaway ñushwith the lower
¿open-heel Vshoes vwhich consists in providing. an
edgefof the straplß', as shown inA Fig. 3. Cement
` vripper having a, complete qi'iarter"lining,YV mounting
' Íi'sfthen VappliedV tothe marginalportion of `the
~the"up_per.on a last',V lastingìthe shank and .Íöre
insole and to the inner face of the upstanding 50y Vpart vin-ïtheï usual».marinerVlasting;y the `’quarter
portion oflthe piece 22. >This portion is then laid
vlining‘only over the flreele'seat.` of ` the insole; and '
over upon the'cemented insole and _may be pinked
as shown'at 36 if desired't‘o enable it to lie flatY
securing it’Y thereto», attaching> van _ outsole fand ïan
untrimmed heel tothe-shoe, 'trimming and i'lnish
ing the heel whilethe insoleis. held againstthe
`upon' the insole, A heel pad 38 may beapplied
overl at least a portion of the insole.
55' last by the quarter lining, anduti-lizing a` portion '
‘_ The strap lining I6 may, of course, extend Y,far
enough to be lasted over the insole, but in that
`case the lining material should beñnished on its
of the quarterlining to cover Íthe'edge cface and ~
inner 'marginalàportionï 'of the insole. '
- 5. :That improvementr Í in ' metho ds.,-
outer as well as its inner side. This methodV may
of making
Í» shoes which consists iin. providing an upper hav- -
be followed Vwhere a reversible lining material is 60 ing a 'heel' 'strapj only ' about ¿the rear Lend ¿of the
available one'side of which is suitablefor ex
shoe,VV providing a complete quarter lining asfa
posure inside andthev other for `exposure outside
lining for' the'> strap, mounting 'tifíenp'perv-` onV a
the shoe. However, ‘under usual conditions'it ' last, jlasting theslìankï and'lforepartfinï the? usual
lwill be more desirable and’convenient ïto employ'V
a'pieced quarter vlining the upper> part of which 65 manner, 'lasting'zthe quarter lining ï'only I over VVthe
’heel-seat of the insole and securing it thereto`,'_ at
‘has an inside ñnish and the lower part an outside
huish', as abovedescribed. If .the shoehas Yno , ` 'taching anV outsole and an untrimmed heel A'to the
"shop,
vand iinishingîthe -heel while the
strapat 'the heel end orA only a high ankle strap,
"
A`ïthe
quarter
lining
may be
extended to forma
.
Vinsole
held
`against
the ‘last
Y y
4 is'
_
,
n .
«
Y _by the lasted guar
ïclosure forïthe/rear end of the last and ¿may be 7o: ter lining, and'utiliZing Va portion,pr'A the’ quarter ,
k‘,pieced'ornot, depending on the materials used. . l liriingfto'’c_:o'verfthe` edge ',face' and inner. marginal
of Y the Íir'ifsolì'e,v the _remainder of 'the` lining
In» 1 this pase, . after` 'the lining is 'lasted .and the
with{the,lower edgeA 'oi the
flhe'el attached, :trimmed and finished, Lthe-_lining
`will be cut >at the proper .distance abovethe Vin
sole and its lower portion utilized to cover the heel
75
6. That" improvement
'methods''ofiV
2,404,546
shoes which consists in providing an upper hav
ing an open heel end with a strap to extend
around the foot above the bulge of the heel and
a two-piece quarter lining the upper portion of
of the inner face of the insole and securing itA
thereto.
7. That improvement in methods of making
‘ shoes which consists in providing. an upper hav
whichy has an inside ñnish forming a lining for 5 ing a heel strap only about the rear'end of the
the strap and the lower portion' an outside finish
shoe, providing a complete quarter lining las' a
suitable for covering the heel end of the insole,
mounting the upper upon a, last, lasting the quar
ter lining over the heel-seat of the insole, at
taching an outsole and an untrimmed heel to the 10
shoe, trimming the heel While the quarter lining
is intact, then severing the quarter lining along
a line parallel to the heel-seat and spaced there-_
from heightwise of the shoe, trimming the upper
portion of the quarter lining ñush with the lower 15
edge of the strap, and laying the lower portion
of the quarter lining over the marginal portion
lining for the strap, mounting the upper on a ,
last, lasting the shank and forepart in the usual
manner, lasting the quarter lining only over the
heel-seat of the insole and securing it thereto,
atta-ching an outsole and an untrimmed heel to
the shoe, trimming and ñnishing the heel while
the insole is held against the last by the lasted
quarter lining, and trimming the quarter lining
flush With the lower edge of the strap.
KARL A. STRI'I‘TER.
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