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Патент USA US2404586

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July 23, 1946.
R. MALING
A
METHOD
OF
MAKING
2,404,586
FOOTWEAR
I
Filed Deb. 9, 1944
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B34;
INVENTOR.
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July 23,, 1946.
R. MALING
14%,586 ’
METHOD OF MAKINé FOOTWEAR
Filed Dec. '9, 1944v
2 Sheets-Sheet 2 _
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IN VEN TOR.
Patented July 23, 1946
2,404,586 a
' UNITED [STATES
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PATENT
OFFICE
~ “ :MEIHQDQFMAKING
2,404,586 FOOTWEAR
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“Roy Malina, West Roxbury, Mass.
,Applipatiqnllecember 9, 1944, Serial ‘No. 567,362
'
1 Claim.
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(01. 124-142)
I
2
This invention relates vrte improvements in-shoe
Figure 1 is a longitudinal cross-section of a
shoe upper structure embodying featuresvof my,
invention; the upper being in suspendedrelation
making methods and shoe structures produced
thereby.
‘
'
to the lining ;-~
. Shoesniadeaccording toconventional s0.—cal1ed
slip=lasted methods ‘have certain manufacturing
‘advantages as compared with shoes having regu
of'Figure 1;
10
.m
,
~
It is-an object of~my present-invention to pro-,
vide a method of_m_aking shoes whichcombines
certain advantageous features of both~slip~lasted
"
a
‘
of the upper;
,
.
I Figure 5 is a bottom plan View of the-bottom.
of the shoe of Figure 4- prior to applyingof-the
t
* .
'_ I.
Figure ‘6 is a- cross-sectional view on~;line16—6=i
of. Eigure?;
,
q
.-
~
'4.
-,
Figure 7 is a cross-sectional ;view simila-rto
11'8‘6 but showing; a‘, counter pocket felement
ihed to‘ the lining;
'
_
'
.
,,
,
'
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is completely regularly-[lasted overtheslip-lasted
Figure 8.. is a ‘cross-sectional. view similar. to
inner street-Ire after? a last. has been. slipped into
Figures ‘6' and? '7. but: having an exterior". pocket:
the inner str-ucture_.;
'3 ‘
:'
.
1 '
Another object is to provide'ashoe structure
having 11% ,completely slip-lasted; lining; and; sock
linins'inncr upper
and. a completely regu
, larlrlasted outer upper unit. . r
'
'
Figure 4 is a longitudinal section through a
modi?ed shoe structure on a last prior .to lasting
insole and ?ller‘layer;
and regularly lasted procedures in that an inner 20
upper Structure comprising a lining: and'sock-lin
ing is completely slip-lasted anclthe upper proper
‘
unit, and with the upper lasted over uponran ina
sole and ?ller unit;
ser'ted‘ last with thennicety- and uniform tightness
that is attainable, when theu-pper ispulled over
a last and made to conform 'precisely'to the last M
»;
I
‘sorted in the prestitched lining and sock lining.
product usually has superior qualities ot?exibility
.
T »
shoe structure of Figures 1 and 2 with a last in‘
ipg'economies may be availedof, and a slip-lasted
contour.
'
Figure ‘3 is a longitudinal section through the
larly lasted uppersin that various manufactur
as compared with regularly lasted footwear.
_I_-_I,owever-, a slip-lastedupper, especially a leather
upper, cannot practically be made to ?t an in‘
-
Figure 2 is a cross-sectional View on line 2--2
1 '
2.5 element stitched, to: the; upper which latter‘ has no
lining, the pocket element having a lasting'allowfor lasting the rear; part of the upper; and
Figure-‘9- is; a side elevation of an. open toe shoe
having; a. counter pocket on the; lining; on its; side‘
A further object is; to provide in‘ a-shoe struc 30 which;istowardtheuppen,
Referring: to, the: drawings,‘ the:
, . lining;
.
I10: may
.
ture. a complete inner sock; pre-stitched through
be. of fabric: or
other.’ suitabl'evshoe liningj
out whilerffreo of alast,jtorwhoseztopaedge the
shoe, upper is. Stitched alliaround the :foot 4 opening
material: and; in :Figs'. '1-3“ is; showzrrstitched' at
in a conventional manner, vwhereby sai'dup'per
IFZZ to.v a; sock‘ lining Hi all aroundjthe Ishoeto'
becomes. anchored on a last slipped into the inner 35 providera complete sock into which; a: last‘ may I
be inserted after the stitching of lining to sock
sock, ‘for an effective lasting of the upper all
lining has been accomplished.
' '_
around the shoe.
The upper I6 is preliminarily stitched’ at l8
Still another object is to provide a shoe struc
to the lining around the foot opening in a con
ture having a lining and sock lining stitched to
gether to provide a complete sock while the lin 40 ventional manner so that the upper, after a last
has been inserted in the sock, is suspended loosely
ing is free of a last, and having a layer of cush;
from the lining on the last but is anchored at
the top stitch line I8 so that every part thereof
may be drawn to last shape by regular lasting
45 procedures and turned over upon the sock lining
and ?ller to which the upper may be lasted‘, ,
M, or preferably, upon‘an insole and ?ller layer
Yet another object is to. provide a slip-lasted
20 of cushioning material. This layer 20 may be
inner sock from which the upper is suspended
a relatively thin sheet of sponge rubber one
and over which, while on an inserted last, the
eighth of an inch in thickness, for example, or
upper may be lasted throughout the extent of
50 it ,may be a plastic substance, such as a cork
the’upper.
~
,
composition or the like, spread over the under
It is, moreover, my purpose and object gener
surface of the sock lining I4 and allowed to set
ally to improve upon prior shoe-making methods
or partially set prior to lasting of the upper. In
and prior shoe structures, especially shoes of the
any case, however, the layer 20 will be readily
' so-called slip-lasted variety.
55 ?exible and pliable as compared with?c‘onven-v
In the accompanying drawings:
ioning material applied, after insertion of a last
in the sock, in covering relation to the under sur
face of the sock lining for constituting an insole
2,404,586
1;‘
3
- itional relatively sti?f insoles which heretofore
V .
the sock lining projects rearward free of the’
lining. Preferably the free rear part of the sock
.‘have been necessary adjuncts to a lasted forepart.
, According to my invention, the insole ?ller layer
lining covers a stiffener element 28 at the rear
20 does not need to be stiff for the lasting be
cause the lining and sock lining preliminarily
part, having its marginal edge portions turned
over the edges of the stiffener 28 and cemented
to its under side as shown in Figs. 4, 6, '7 and
. are secure in theirv covering relation to a last
"inserted therein, the insole ?ller layer 20 being
V 8.
’ 1 ‘primarily a cushion between the lasted over por
This enables the sock-lining-covered stiff
ener 28 to be swung out of the way for inserting
tions of thewuppereand the relatively thin sock
a counter in any of the ways heretofore suggested
lining, to vavoid 'discomforting ridges interiorly 10 and then the covered sti?ener 28 may be moved
of the shoe which otherwise might be present due,
'
into covering relation to the counter ?ange, in- '
vteriozrly of the shoe and prior, to insertion of a
1 . to the extra thicknesses of material at the mar-_: ‘‘
ginal regions of the, shoe, especially around its
forepart.
last therein, over which and the counter ?ange
the upper may be eliectively lasted, and the cov-_
'
V » . The rear part of the shoe may have a counter‘ 15 ered stiffener 28 provides a ?nished base surface
22 inserted between the slip-lasted inner sock and
' interiorly of the lasted shoe. 7
the loose suspended upper, any desired stiffening
Any desired sole ‘and heel structure may be
element 24 being embodied between the sock
applied to my lasted upper, preferably by cement,
lining I 4 and the counter ?ange 23 over which
although a suitablewelt strip (not shown) might
'the upper is turned in the lasting of the rear 20 be provided all around the shoe by’ means of
. parts of the upper; Obviously, ‘if desired, a‘
which an'outsole might be stitched on according '
-j counteripocket may-be provided on the‘lining In
by stitching-a‘sheet 26 to its inner surface as in
to welljknown procedures.
In
. Fig.1, or to its outer surface as in Fig. 9, the‘
7
U
,
_
3' and 9, I have represented a platform
and heel: unit 30 of laminated ' construction
1 pocket extending throughout the portion'of rear
part which is to be stilfened by a counter, the
cemented in place and having an outsole I32
thereon, but‘ it will be understood that the fea
; underside of thepocket'being‘left open for in
' tures of my present invention-relate to improve
. sertion of a’ counter. _ ‘In this case the lining is‘ ' ments 1n the upper structure and that any desired
freeof the sock lining at the rear part of the -j
and suitable base structure may be applied
1 .~;slioe’ so that the loose part of the sock lining
thereto.
‘
.
'
'
‘My herein'disclosed method and structure ‘pro
‘ may cover the, counter ?ange as indicated in Fig. ,
1 *7; which shows such ‘an interior’counter pocket‘
vide shoes which can bermadei insubstantial
part by economical‘ slip-lasted?’ procedures and
. on the lining l0. “As‘shown, both the'upper l6
‘ v‘and its, lining l0 have lasting. allowance-so that
Whose uppers 'inay bef lasted throughout to at
1 ‘both may be lasted over upon the counter ?ange. 35 tain the advantages which are well‘ knownatt'ri; '
Similarly, a counter pocket may be provided
butes of ‘a lasted upper, but embodying-at the
~ 3 exteriorly of the upper l6, as shownjin Fig.6,"
1 by’ stitching?'a strip 25 to the exterior surface
forepart"qualities of ?exibility not heretofore
attainable ina ‘shoe having’ ' a lasted; forepart,
‘
‘
" l of the upper I16, ‘and’ leaving the under side of
Z th'e'pocket .open ‘for ‘reception of a counter be 40.
so far as I'am aware. ' '7
I' claim as my invention:
7
" tween ‘the upper 16- ‘and the strip 25. In this’
The'method of making a shoe upper‘structure
‘ case, the upper may be ‘a' fabric-lined‘ sheet?
comprising the steps of stitching van upper and
lining- together' at their edges'wh'ich are'to‘be "
uppermost in ‘the shodj's'titchingth'e lining to'a'
sock lining all around the edges of’ the'flatter
therebyrto'provide a complete. sock from'whose
‘ 7 material requiring ‘no separate lining, and it may ‘
j terminate at the under plane or the'sock‘lining, ,
g the pocket strip‘ ‘ZS-having lasting allowance for 45
i thelasting of rear'parts of the shoe.
1 '
‘ Although the ‘construction illustrated in Figs.
top edge the'i'upper is loosely suspended, inserting V '
; 1-3Iprovides an ‘effective and’ economical‘ shoe
a ‘counter'between the lining and uppériat the
I which can have superior qualities of ?exibility at
rear part of the shoe, followed by'ins‘erting'a last
1 the forepart in conjunction with adequate sup
: porting stiffness eat the rear’part, theflining l0
doesv not-:neecl’ to be stitched to the sock lining’
:50 in the preestitc'hed sock ‘to s1ip-1ast;the sock,
‘ |4> allaround the‘ shoe. 'In' the ‘constructions of .
‘ Figs. 4-7' and 9, the lining and‘ sock lining are
andithen applying asheet layer ofipliable ma-j
7 teria1'to-theunder side of the sock. lining; and
lasting-the upper overfupon the sheet layer all .
aroundthe extent of‘the’upperj
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L stitched together only around the'forepart'and 55
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ROYMALVING.
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