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Патент USA US2404998

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July 30, 1946-
, w. c. ViZARD
Filed Feb. 7, 1944
Wm 61 Vz'zwd,
Patented July 30, 1946
William C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass., assignor to
Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass., 21
copartnership composed of Perley E. Barbour,
Walter G. Barbour, and Richard H. Barbour
Application February '7, 1944, Serial No. 521,465
2 Claims.
(01. 12—146)
This invention relates to shoe welting and per”
tains more particularly to improvements in pre
formed welts and their method of manufacture.
The principal purpose of the invention is to
year welting, one-half inch wide by one-eighth
inch thick and of any desired length, The margin
of the strip along the side to be used as the
inseam edge is slit longitudinally by an angular
produce a molded welt which will serve the pur
cut l2 extending upwardly of the longitudinal
poses of Goodyear welting yet which eliminates
the grooving and beveling of the ordinary Good
?esh edge, from a line adjacent the bottom of
the strip to within 0.050 inch of the top or grain
surface, and then parallel to said surface for a
year welt, which provides a proper contour at the
distance approximately a‘a inch, at 13, to form
a while
and furnishing
whichof may
a wider
be built
sion than that ordinarily provided by standard
Goodyear welting.
10 a beveled lower lip l4 and a triangular shaped
upper lip 55.
These lips are then bent downwardly and
bonded together under pressure, after applying a
suitable cement between the opposed lips, to form
A further object is to produce a welt having
a molded inseam ?ange which is substantially 15 the depending inseam ?ange it of the premolded
welt shown in Fig. 2. It will be appreciated that
thinner than the welt extension, permitting the
the slitting of the inseam edge and the reunion
inseam stitch to be pulled closer to the lip
of its separated lips not only facilitates the bend
of the insole of the shoe and preventing the
ing of the ?ange, but also ensures that the flange
Goodyear outsole stitch from cutting the inseam.
The improved process of manufacture involves 20 thus formed will hold its shape because of the
bridging action afforded by the slight displace
cutting the inseam edge of a standard-size Good
ment of the respective lips relative to each other
year welt strip, to provide a pair of ?exible lips,
during the bending operation.
and preferably channeling the ?esh body between
It will also be observed that the upper or grain
the lips to afford a relatively thin inseam edge.
then bending the lips downwardly and cementing 25 surface of the welt continues over the inseam
?ange, thus avoiding the objectionable appear—
them together under pressure to form a pre
ance of a skived and beveled inseam margin
molded ?ange which provides the desired inclina
which is frequently characteristic of a standard
tion and a crease for the inseam stitch without
beveling the top or grooving the bottom of the
Goodyear welt when built into a shoe. The welt
30 extension I? alforded by the improved, premolded
welting is, moreover, approximately 3% inch wider
Recommended embodiments of the invention
than that of ordinary grooved and beveled Good
are illustrated in the accompanying drawing,
year welt as usually applied to a shoe.
in which
The inseam ?ange [6 will ?t closely under the
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a welt strip
feather of the insole of a shoe to which this
incised at its inseam edge in accordance with
welting is applied; the crease 18 serves as a guide
the improved method, to provide a pair of inseam
for the inseam stitch; the welt extension of the
stitched welt projects outwardly from the shoe
Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the premolded
welt formed by bending down and cementing said
along its sides, and the toe area is easily ?attened,
and only suf?cient welt rolling or beating to ?atten
the underside of the welt extension is required
Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 showing a
in preparing the welted shoe for bottom finishing
modi?ed and preferred form of welt strip in
and outsoling, for the ?bres of the inseam lips
which the body of the strip has been channeled
have been stretched at the fold of the ?ange l5,
between the incised lips;
Fig. 4. is a View of the preferred welt made 45 substantially eliminating residual strain on the
welt during the welt-turning and beating opera
by bending and cementing the lips of Fig. 3;
tions. It is well known that the ordinary opera
Fig. 5 illustrates a further modi?cation in
tion of welt beating is an extremely critical step
which the welt strip is composed of laminated
in shoe manufacture, and that excessive or im
sheets; and
Fig. 6 is a fragmentary sectional view of the
toe portion of a welted shoe, prior to bottom
?lling and soling.
In the form shown in Fig. 1, the welt strip ll
consists of a single ply of grain leather or other
suitable welt material, of standard size for Good
proper beating is a primary cause of damaged,
distorted or defective shoes. This danger is sub—
stantially obviated by the use of the welting herein
These advantages are more pronounced when
the preformed welt is made as shown in Figs.
3 and 4., which provides an inseam ?ange sub
stantially thinner at the stitch line than the Welt
proper, thereby permitting the inseam stitch to
be pulled closer to the lip of the insole and pre
venting the outsole stitch from cutting the inseam
stitch of the welt.
In accordance with this preferred method, the
edge cut inclines upwardly at an angle of about
ance with the customary Goodyear welting proc
ess. As previously pointed out, the welt‘ is of such
contour that the inseam ?ange l 6 readily ?ts be
40°, as at fit, from the lower corner of the inseam
neath the feather of an insole 31 having a nor
mally channel inseam lip, with the welt extension
ll projecting outwardly from the lasted upper
32, and the inseam stitch 33 pulls the ?ange
tightly toward the lip of the insole so that the
stitch is well hidden within the seam.
edge approximately 3% inch, then parallel to the 10 of the novel formation of the flange and the uni
form appearance of the top of the welt, an ordi~
base of the welt about 1—‘.; inch at 22, then verti
nary half inch welt may thus be attached with a
cally upward .040 inch at 23, outwardly T‘g inch
full width welt extension.
at 24, and downwardly at 25 to the ?rst out.
I claim:
These cuts free a rectangular string of material
LA method of making preformed welting
which is removed and discarded or used else 15
which consists in slitting the inseam edge of a
where, and form a channel in the body of the
welt strip to. form a pair of ?exible lips and re
welt material between the lowerlip 25 and upper
lip 27 thus produced. The two lips are folded
moving a string of material from the welt body
downwardly and cemented together as above de
between said lips, bending the lips downwardly
scribed to form the inseam ?ange 28 of Fig. ll.
20 relative to the welt extension and cementing
Welting made in accordance with either illus
them together to form a depending inseam ?ange.
trated form of this invention may be composed of
2. A method or" making preformed welting
laminated strips of thin leather or other ?exible
which consists in incising the inseam edge of a
material suitable for welting, such as ?brous,
Welt strip by a cut inclining upwardly of its base,
plastic, or paper sheets, or combinations of such 25 then extending inwardly parallel thereto, then
materials, as indicated in Fig. 5. Such laminated
upwardly, then outwardly parallel to its upper
strips may be edge slit as in Fig. 1 or 3, and it
surface, and then downwardly to the inclined
will be understood that the length and direction
cut, to free a string from the body of the strip,
of the slits or cuts may be varied to suit particu
and form a pair of opposed, ?exible lips, removing
lar conditions without departing from the essence 30 said string, and then bending the lips downwardly
of this invention as defined in the appended
relative to the welt extension and cementing them
together under pressure.
Fig, 6 illustrates the application of the pre
molded welt H to an un?nished shoe, in accord
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