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Патент USA US2407903

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Sept. 17, 1946.
E, QUmN ‘Er AL
2,407,903
METHOD 'AND MACHINE FOR MAKING PREWELT SHOES.
' Filed April 17, 1943
:5 Sheets-Sheet 1
Sept. 17, 1946.‘ '
‘
E. QUINN m1 -
'
2,407,903
METHOD AND MACHINE FOR MAKING PRE'WELT SHOES ' '
-
Filed April 17, 1945
-
> a Sheéts-Sheet 2
__Sept. 1-7, 1946., - '
. E. QUINN ET‘AL
METHOD AND MACHINE FOR MAKING PREWELT sno?s
Filed April 17, 1943
2,407,903
3 Sheets—$heet v"5
Patented Sept. 17, 1946
-
2,407,903
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICEv
2,407,903
METHOD AND MACHINE FOR MAKING
PREVVELT SHOES
'
Edward Quinn, Saugus, and Israel I. Hersey, Bev
‘ erly, Mass, assignors to United Shoe Machin
ery Corporation, Flemingtcn, N. J., a corpora
tion of New Jersey
Application April 17, 1943, Serial No. 483,410 _
28 Claims.
1
The present invention relates to improvements
in a method for making shoes and to sewing '
machines contributing to the ease in which‘ the
improved method may be performed and more
particularly to machines for sewing together the
marginal portions of a sole and the unattached
edge of a welt in a prewelt shoe assembled o?
the-last, that is, without the use of a rigid last.
In the manufacture of a prewelt shoe oiT-th'e
last, the upper is ?rst attached to the welt along
one edge, leaving the other unattached edge lying
along the side of the upper and diverging slightly
(Cl. 112-46)
2
cementing pressure is released, so long as the
cement bond holds.
The objects of' the present invention are to re- '
duce substantially the dii?culties above enumer
ated while connecting the unattached edge por
tion of a welt on a prewelted upper to an outsole
and to provide a method and a machine for man
ufacturing prewelt shoes without the use of a
last in which‘ all of the advantages of manufac
ture without the use of a last will be retained
and by which relative strains will be eliminated
as far as practicable in the parts operated upon
therefrom. Before the welt can be connected to
while being connected.
_
d the sole, it must be ?exed both at an angle with
A further object of the invention is to provide
the side of the upper to bend or straighten the 1:3 a method and a machine for the manufacture of
welt about its lengthwise axis away from the up
prewelt shoes off-the-last in which there is no
per and bring it into ?attened position against
the sole and also in a widthwise direction to draw
the unattached edge of the welt into a con?gu
ration wh‘ich will give a desirable shape to the '
?nished shoe. A machine for bending the welt
into ?attened position to assist in connecting the
outsole is disclosed in United States Letters Pat
ent to Jalbert No. 2,298,384, granted October 13,
1942.
l
necessity for separate cementing operations, the
welt being sewn to the sole directly after the
welt is attached to the upper. A still further ob.
ject of the present. invention is _to provide a
machine in which certain steps of an improved
prewelt shoe manufacturing method may be per
formed while the upper is unsupported on a last
and by which a substantial simpli?cation and
reduction may be effected in expense of manu
I To provide the desired shape in the ?nished
facturing shoes of this nature both by a better
shoe constructed without a last, the sole is cut
accurately to size and the unattached edge of the
control and by elimination of operations. ‘
To these ends. the method of the present in.
‘vention includes the steps of ?exing the. welt on
Machines for connecting the welt of a prewelted to a prewelted upper to bend the welt away from
the side of the upper and to draw the unattached
upper with pressure activated cement to a sole
welt is brought into regitsry with the sole‘edge.
cut to size have been used heretofore with some
success and ‘act to clamp and squeeze the shoe
parts together in a progressive operation extend
edge progressively into registry with the edge of
a cut sole while the upper is unsupported by a
last and sewing continuously with the ?exing ope
ing along the projecting edge' portions of the 35 eration‘to form a permanent line of stitching
passing through the welt and sole outside the up
parts. In clamping the parts together, previ
per. During the sewing operation, the parts are
ously cemented surfaces on the welt and sole are
brought into intimate contact so as to cause the
surfaces to adhere in the exact relation in which
they are clamped. Due to the nature .of. such a
progressive cementing operation and to the in
herent qualities of the leather materials making
up the parts operated upon, particularly when a
strongly resilient welt is employed with relatively
thin soles, the clamping pressure not only brings
the cemented surfaces into intimate contact, but
also tends to squeeze out and elongate the welt.
After the operation has been completed, a reverse
tendency of contraction in the welt occurs, with
the result that the cement bond between the
parts may be ‘broken if the contraction is unequal
or the shoe may become distorted somewhat
from unreleased strain, no readjustments in the
alternately ‘clamped and released, thus enabling
any strains set up while ‘clamping torbe distrib—
uted evenly in the shoe parts when released.
Pressure activated cements now in common 1156
require a continuousapplication ‘of pressure in
the direction of the thickness of the work so that
no release is possible. When connecting the welt
> to the sole with a line of stitches outside the line
of attachment of the welt to the upperu read
.lllstinent and relative movement‘may take place
during release between the edge of the Well;
which is attached to the upper and the sole to
an extent not possible where cement is employed.
Another advantage obtainable with a ‘sewing
operation is a better control of work food than
in cementing with no release. As a result, a
sewn shoe ‘is constructed with a minimum in.
materials operated upon being possible after the 55 tensity of internal strains produced during ‘man
2,407,903
3
ufacture and the shoe parts, therefore, are en
abled to conform more easily with a predeter
mined shape either of a manufacturing last or
the wearer’s foot. Also, by avoiding cementing
operations, an entire step in the method of man
ufacture is eliminated with corresponding econ
omies in cost.
4
Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a nearly com
pleted shoe with the sole and other parts broken
away to illustrate more clearly the nature of the
construction in which the present method and
machine are employed;
Fig. 4 is a view in side elevation, partly broken
away, of the machine parts illustrated in Fig, 1,
including the shuttle with a prewelt shoe shown
in section;
An important feature of the invention also re
sides in a sewing machine having work feeding
Fig. 5 is a front sectional detail view of certain
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease 10 parts. shown in Figs. 1 and 4, taken along the '
between the welt and upper, a presser foot for
line V-V of Fig. 4;
clamping and releasing the work to enable rela
Fig. 6 is a detail side sectional view on an en
tive strain adjusting movements between the
larged
scale illustrating the operation‘of the welt
welt and sole during each Sewing cycle and a
drawing claw at a time in each sewing cycle
15
back gage for guiding the outer edges of the
just before the feed takes place;
parts into registry, together with‘ means acting
Fig. 7 is a detail plan sectional view of the
to draw the welt uniformly against the back gage
same
parts showing the position of the work be
in advance of the point of operation of the nee
fore the feed takesplace;
dle, the sole being led against the back gage
Fig. 8 is a detail side view similar to Fig. 6 but
manually in the usual way. Whenthe presser 20 illustrating
the claw and parts operated upon at
foot releases the work, the shoe parts are en
abled to redistribute the strains set up in them
while clamped so that the only strains within
the work operated upon are those produced by
the end of'the work feeding operation; "
Fig. 9 is a detail plan View, similar to Fig. '7,
of the claw and shoe parts operated upon after
j
?exing the welt and upper into the desired shape, 25 the feed has taken place; '
Fig. 10 is a detail view in side elevation, and
' the degree of elongation and contraction while
partly in section, illustrating a modi?ed form of
the parts are compressed and released being re
construction and its manner of operation on the
work, adapted for use in the sewing machine .
In a preferred form of this feature of the in
disclosed in Fig. 1;
_
30
vention, the work feeding means includes a work
Fig. 11 is a detail plan View of the parts illus
penetrating awl and the welt drawing means
trated in Fig. 10; and
.
comprises a pointed member or claw acting on an
Fig. 12 is a detail plan view of a portion of the
unsewed portion of the welt to draw it against
duced to a minimum. .
the back gage before the awl enters the work in
each sewing cycle. As herein disclosed, the claw
acts'on. the welt a uniform distance from the
Y outer, ‘unattached welt edge at a location deter
hooked ?nger and its controlling devices illus
trated in Figs. 10 and 11', with the ?nger re
tracted to enable completion of a seam.
In the construction of a prewelt shoe accord
ing to the usual practice, after assembling the
mined by a gage cooperating with the claw. In
parts of an upper 2, a Welt strip similar to that
order to obtain the best results with this form
of the invention, mechanisms are provided for 40 indicated in the drawings at 4 is attached along’
actuating the pointed member both to penetrate
the welt and to cause the welt to be drawn against
the back gage during each sewing cycle. To in
sure that the welt will be led into the machine
under fully relaxed condition at the sewing point
or with a predetermined tension or compression
lengthwise of the welt, the pointed member is
moved with the welt during work feed through a
distance greater than the length of work feed in
each sewing cycle.
_ '
In a simpli?ed form of machine embodying
this feature of the invention, the welt drawing
means comprises a hooked member entering be
tween the sole and welt in advance of the sew
ing point. . In this simpli?ed form, suitable means
are provided for retracting the hook member just
before the seam is completed to allow the in
, one edge by a line of stitching 6 to the bottom
edge of the upper, When the prewelted upper is
to be connected to an \outsole 8 by an‘off-the
last method of manufacture, the outsole is cut
accurately to the exact size required by the ?n
‘ ished shoe. The welt which, when originally at
tached to the upper, lies along the outer surface
of the upper with its unattached edge diverging
slightly from the upper, as indicated by broken
50 lines in Fig. 2, is then ?exed to bend the welt
outwardly along a lengthwise axis to bring it .into
the full line straightened position where it will lie
more nearly in parallel relation with the sole 8
and to draw the unattached edge in a direction
55 widthwise of the welt into registry with the edge
of the sole. Ordinarily the parts are temporarily
connected in‘ this relation by pressure activated
cement, such as semi-cured rubber or latex.
sertion of the ?nal stitch in overlapping relation
Thereafter, the parts are permanently connected
to the ?rst stitch of the seam.
These and other features of the invention in 60 by an outseam Hi passing through the projecting
portions of the sole and the unattached edge por
cluding-certain novel and improved construc
tions of the welt with a continuous seam extend
tions and arrangements of parts are hereinafter
ing entirely around the shoe and terminating
described in the following detailed speci?cation
"with the ?nal stitch overlapping the ?rst stitch
and more particularly pointed out in the ap
65 to provide a secure connection. The registering
"pended claims.
.
.
edges are ?nished after sewing without the necesé
In the drawings,
’
,
sity of rough rounding or trimming. In certain
Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of certain
types of prewelt shoes constructed off-‘the-last,
essential parts of a shoe sewing machine embody
however, the welt strip 4 is not continuousv and
ing features of the present invention according
does not extend entirely around the bottom edge
to its preferred form;
of
the upper, being connected to the forepart and
Fig. 2 is a detail sectional ViBW' at the heel end
shank portions of the sole and terminating at a
of a prewelted shoe upperrhaving an ordinary
position to overlie the heel seat of the shoe. In
construction and indicating the nature of one
this type of construction, obviously the ?rst and
type of ?exure imparted to the Welt during shoe
75 last stitches of the seam do not overlap.
manufacture;
2,407,903
15
The machine ordinarily employed for inserting
the stitches connecting the sole and welt of a pre
welt shoe is of the lockstitch type, and as illus
trated in the drawings, includes a curved hook
needle i2, acurved awl M, a shuttle !6 (Fig. 4),
a work support 18, a presser foot 29. a looper 2|,
and other stitch forming devices similar to those
disclosed in United States Letters Patent to Ash
6
‘grain surface of the welt between the unattached
edge and the line of stitching 6 which connects
the shoe upper 2 to the welt. The claw is actu
ated during each sewing cycle to penetrate the
welt just in front of the line of the seam inserted
by the stitch forming devices (see Fig. '7)‘, to ?ex
the welt rearwardly with widthwise pressure
against the back gage 22 until the claw point is
worth No. 1,169,909, granted February 1, 1916,
in line with the seam and also to move with the
and to Ashworth and ‘Whitaker No. 2,271,611,
granted February 3, 1942. In such a machine,
the work is clamped and compressed in the direc
welt during feeding movements of the shoe. The
claw engages the welt at a location substantially
an even multiple of a stitch length in advance
' tion of its thickness by the operation of the work
support and presser foot. The work is released
of the sewing point ‘lengthwise of the seam and
disengages the welt during formation of each
during the back feeding movement of the work 15 stitch, the parts operated upon being clamped
support and presser foot relatively to thexwork
only adjacent the sewing point. The a-wl then
or while the awl l4 engages the work. In'the ma
penetrates the welt by entering the indentation
chine of Patent No. 1,169,909, the work is fed by
formed by the claw. By disengaging the claw
the awl while the awl is moving in the direction
from the welt while each stitch is being inserted
of the seam line from a position a stitch length
and while'the work is clamped, the strains in
away from the needle ‘into alignment with the
the welt set up by the claw are released intermit
needle, and in the machine of Patent No. 2,271,
tently. The claw engages the welt just before
611, the awl and needle remain in alignment at
all times and the work is fed while clamped by
the work support and presser foot, the work sup
port and presser foot being back fed while the
awl is in engagement with the work.
When pressure activated cement is employed to
connect the ?attened welt to the sole of a pre
welt shoe progressively around the edge of the
sole by compressing the parts in the direction of
their thickness to bring the cemented surfaces
into intimate contact, a progressive wave of elon
gation and contraction in those parts is set up,
‘as above explained, with the result that as the
cementing operation continues without release
of the strains thus produced, the parts may cause
an occasional break in the cement bond con
the presser foot releases the work so that the
strains set up by the clamping'pressure of the
presser foot on the welt also are released after
each stitch has been inserted and during feeding
movements. During feeding movements, the claw
necessarily engages the welt and imparts to it only
that amount of strain required to flex the welt
into conformity with the con?guration of the sole
edge, which amount of strain is maintained in
the welt by the stitches. The point of engage
ment of the claw with the welt being in front
of the line of the seam, and in advance of the
~ sewing point, causes the same strains to be set‘
up in the‘welt as are maintained by the stitches
and no others. Also, where a welt of strongly re
silient material is employed‘which is elongated by
necting them or may become distorted from their
intended ?nished shapes. These difliculties are
the pressure of the presser foot, the claw is moved
to a distance slightly greater than the length of feed
' particularly troublesome when a relatively soft,
imparted by the work feeding means so that the
thick welt is employed and if the shoe is com
clamping pressure of the presser foot will cause
pleted directly after the cementing operation by
sewing the welt to the outsole with a permanent
seam, there is little or no ‘possibility of re-estab
lishing the proper shape or relations in the parts
‘without further treatment. The usual procedure
is to insert a last within the completed shoe and
to process the shoe ‘by tempering or heating‘the
parts to an extent which will release the strains.
In order to practise the method of the present
‘invention by the use of the illustrated sewing
machine, the sole is not temporarily connected
by cement to the ?attened edge of welt before
sewing, but these parts in unconnected relation
are presented to the sewing machine and the
presser foot lowered to clamp the parts against
the work support, the presser foot compressing
the parts and holding them ?rmly while the ?rst
and subsequent stitches are being inserted. Be
tween the times the stitches are inserted, the
clamping pressure on the parts is intermittently
released to enable feeding movement to take place
and the welt and sole are progressively ?exed and
guided into registry with each other ‘against a
back gage 22.
'
To insure that accurate registry of the edges
throughout the length of the seam can be ac
less temporary elongation in the welt.
To actuate the claw, a spindle 35, best shown
in Figs. 4 and 6, is secured at one end to the
claw and rotates along its central portion in a
bearing in the upper end of the arm ‘26; At‘
the other end of the spindle, there is secured an
arm 32 pivotally connected to the upper end of
a push rod 3s slidingly mounted in‘a perforated
lug on a block 36 ‘to which the arm 25 is con
nected. The block 33 is hingedly mounted on a
second block 38 corresponding to that described
in Patent No. 1,169,909, as supporting the chan
neling knife of the patented machine.
To cause the point 23 of the claw to penetrate
to disengage the work, the lower end of the
rod 34, is acted upon by an elongated cam bar
slidable
a correspondingly shaped opening
‘in the supporting block
One end of the cam
bar 4%} is reduced and surrounded by a sleeve M
to which it is so fastened as to permit partial
rotation of the sleeve. The sleeve is pivotally
connected to a swivel block d2 also pivotally con~
nected to an arm £24 forming the central member
of a universal joint. The lower end of the rod 36
is held against the cam surface on the bar 43 by
a coil spring
stretched between a projection
complished uniformly on a manufacturing basis,
on the rod 3d and ‘a pin on the block 35. The
after the unattached edge of the welt has been 70 arm M is in turn secured to the forward end of
bent outwardly to bring the welt into ?attened
a laterally moving lever d? (referred to in Patent
condition, the machine embodying the present
No. 1,169,999 by the reference 9'2), which lever is
invention is provided with a U-shaped claw 24
a part of the mechanism for actuating the looper ‘
mounted on a supporting arm 26 and formed with
a welt penetrating point 28 acting to engage the
2!. The movements of the looper actuating lever
4's‘ and the shape of the cam surface on the bar
i
I
2,407,903
8
'40 in moving from the solid to the dot-dash posi
tion of Fig‘. 5, cause the claw 24 to penetrate
thewelt a short distance just before the presser
foot releases the work in each sewing cycle.
Movement in the reverse direction causes the
claw to disengage the welt after the presser foot
has again clamped the work.
For bringing the welt after being engaged by
the claw into registry with the sole edge and
against the back gage 22, the block 36 is;rocked
on its hinge mounting which consists of a shcul~
dered screw 48 passing loosely through the block
38 into threaded engagement with the block 36.
A step is cut in the ‘forward face of the block 38
ing arm 25 on which the claw is pivoted lepro
vided with a gage shoulder El acting on theunat- '
tached edge of the welt. The operation. of spring
64 on the arm 56 causes the shoulder 61 on the
arm 25 to engage the welt, as illustrated in Figs.
6 and 7, even before the clawpenetrates-the
welt. After penetrating the welt, the claw is
moved rearwardly of the machine to bring the
unattached edge of the welt into line with the
back gage, as in Figs. 8 and 9. At the same time ‘
that the penetrating and rearward movements of
the claw are occurring, the claw is moved with
the, welt in the direction of feed from the posi
tion of Fig. 7 to that of Fig. 9, after which the
and engaged by the rounded upper end of an arm 15 claw is disengaged during the insertion of the .
56 having an integral shaft portion rotatably
succeeding stitch.
mounted in a projection of the main machine
frame indicated at 52. The end of the shaft
shoe parts presented to ‘the machine, the opera
After the first few stitches are. inserted in the
ally
connecting
connected
the with
arm 54
thewith
armthe
as arm
is a of
bent
a lever
link 56
tion of the claw causes the welt to be drawn
against the back gage 22 without further atten-,
tion bythe operator. If the sole is held. against
the back gage, the‘ unattached‘ Welt edge and
which, in the machine of Patent No. 1,169,909,
comprises a part of the mechanism for actuating
the sole edge will be brought into accurate regis
try throughout the sewing operation.
the presser foot to cause the pressure of the foot
on the work to be relieved and to clamp the work
welt shoe parts Without'the necessity of connect
portion of the arm 55 is suitably shaped to receive
,an an. 56:1 clamped thereto by a bolt 56. Pivot
The machine is useful not only to assemble pre
ing them in a preliminary cementing operation,
during each sewing cycle. The lower end of the
but also may be employed to advantage in other
lever 5G is slotted and the link 58 is adjustably
types of Work or where a prewelted upper and
connected to the lever by a pivot bolt 52 clamped
in the slot to enable the welt drawing movement 30 sole are already temporarily connected. Where
the parts operated upon are already connected,
of the claw to be regulated according to the nature
the operation of the claw causes‘ both parts to be
of the work and quality of the welt operated upon.
directed in the right relation-to the back gage
To keep the block 35 in engagement with the arm.
at all times so that after the ?rst few stitches,
59, a suitable tension spring 6715 holds the block
‘in a forward position.
,
35 the seam may be completed with little or no atten=
tion by the operator in guiding the work.
The‘ operation of the claw actuating connec
A second simpler ‘form of the'machine for per
tions thus far described causes the claw to pene
forming the same steps of the method is illus
' trate the welt just after a stitch has
inserted
trated in Figs. 10, 11 and 12. In this form'of
and to draw the welt rearwardly simulaneously
with the release of the work by the presscr foot. 40 machine, a hooked welt engaging finger 68 passes 7
between the sole 8 and welt ti on the pre-Welted
During feeding movement of the work, the welt
upper 2 while the grain surface of. the welt is
is held against the back gage by the claw, the
parts remaining in this position until the presser
foot again clamps the work and holds the welt
with its unattached projecting edge registering
with the sole edge. With this timing of the parts,
the only restraint on the welt after release of the
work the .pressure of the back gage. The welt,
therefore, is otherwise free to- expand or contract
in any direction about the last inserted stitch as
moving along the work support i8 of the stitcher. . '
The hooked end of the ?nger is bent downwardly
to guide and draw the edge of the welt attached
to the upper in advance of the sewing point to- '
wards the back gage 22 and to hold the unat
tached edge of the welt against the back gage.
The location of the ?nger is such that the welt
may pass without restraint towards the sewing
In the machine of Patent No. 1,169,999, a chan
point of the machine between the hooked end of
the ?nger and the back gage except for the guid
ing and drawing action. of the ?nger on the welt.
If the sole 8 of the shoe is held by the operator
neling knife supporting block corresponding to
the block 38 is moved in the direction of feed dur
istry of the unattached welt edge with the sole
a center and to adjust itself so that a minimum
number of strains are set up relatively to the
shoe sole.
'
I
'
-
‘ ing feeding movements of the awl and against the
at all times against the back gage, accurate reg
edge will be insured.
V
The ?nger 68 has a shank passing transversely
to the line of work feed and loosely through a;
movements are imparted to the block as in the 60 sleeve ‘ill clamped within a lug 72 extending from
a stationary arin ‘M forming a portion of the Ina-I
patent. The block is rotatable on a pivot 55 (Fig'.
chine frame, as in Patent No. 1,169,909. During
1) and is connected by a link 55 to a member
sewing operations. the hooked ?nger is held locked
of the awl feeding connections, as more fully
in forward position, ‘as shown in Figs. '10 and
described in the patent. During back feeding
movements, the point 28 of the claw is disengaged 65 ll. As the end of a seam is approached, it is
necessary to withdraw the ?nger from between
from the welt and causes no change in the
the sole and welt of the shoe in order that the
l position of the welt, the welt tending to swing for~
?rst stitch of a seam may be overlapped by the
wardly away from the back gage either due to the
?nal stitch.
'
»>
shape of the shoe operated upon or to the elon
In order to withdraw the hooked ?nger 68 from
gation in the projecting unattached edge of the 70
between the sole and welt just before the seam
welt under the pressure of the presser foot.
" connecting ‘the parts is completed, the shank of
In order to determine the certainty the dis
the ?nger is surrounded ‘by a compression spring
tance from the edge at which the. claw pene
direction of feed during back feeding movements
of the awl. In the present machine, the same
trates the welt, regardless of the position of the
welt in advance of the sewing point, the support
16 acting at one end on the sleeve ‘Ill and at the .
other end on a knurled collar 18 secured to the
2,407,903
9
end of the ?nger shank. When the ?nger is ro
tated to cause the hooked end to lie parallel to
the surface of the sole, the spring 16 acts to re
tract the ?nger to the position of Fig. 12. To lock
10
is absorbed readily by the relatively long, straight
unsewed length of welt remaining, whereas if it
were necessary to take up the de?ciency about
either end of the shoe, a relatively short length
the ?nger in forward position during sewing UL of welt would remain unsewed which would be
against the force of the spring 16, the shank of
insufficient to enable the welt to stretch to the
the ?nger has projecting from one side a pin 8!]
extent of the de?ciency. For the best results, the
and the sleeve ‘H! has a bayonet slot 82 in which
last sewed side 92 of the shoe shank should be
the pin 86 slides. The locking portion of the
the outside of the shank which is relatively
bayonet slot is at the forward end of the sleeve
straighter than the inside edge portion.
so that when the shank is rotated to bring the
When sewing the sole and welt in the machines
pin into the locking portion of the slot, the hooked
embodying the present invention, it is not nec
end will be swung downwardly to engage the
essary that they be previously connected by ce
inner edge of the welt which is attached to the
ment, and in the form of machine employing a
upper. When the hooked ?nger is rotated man 15 hooked ?nger entering between the parts, they
ually in the opposite direction, the pin moves out
obviously should not be cemented. However, the
of the locking portion of the bayonet slot, and
full advantage of a cemented and sewed connec
the ?nger is moved into parallel relation with the
tion can be obtained with the illustrated method
sole and quickly retracted by the action of the
and machines if green uncured cement only is
spring 16. With skillful manipulation, retrac 20 used and the cement allowed to cure after the
tion of the ?nger may be accomplished'without
seam is completed.
stopping the machine,
As has been stated, the practice of the present
method comprises ?exing the welt to bend the
Having thus described the invention, what is
claimed is:
'
1. The method of making a prewelt shoe which
edge not attached to the upper away from the
comprises ?exing the welt on a prewelted upper
side of the upper from the broken line position
in a manner to bring the unattached edge away
of Fig. 2 into the solid line position and to draw
from the side of the upper and to cause the unat
the unattached edge in a’ direction widthwise of
tached
welt edge to be drawn progressively into
the welt progressively into registry with the edge
registry with the edge of a SOle while the upper
of the sole 8. It is possible to ?ex the welt in the 30 is unsupported by a last, and sewing continu
present sewing machine both to bend the unat
ously with the ?exing operation to form a per
tached edge by the wedging action of the work
support away from the upper and to draw the
edge of the welt widthwise into registry with
the sole edge but a more uniform result is obtain
able if a machine such as that disclosed in the
patent to J albert No. 2,298,384, granted October
13, 1942, is employed to bend the welt away from
the side of the upper before the sewing operation
manent line of stitching passing through the welt
and sole outside the upper.
_
‘ 2. The method of making a prewelt shoe which
35 comprises ?exing the welt on a prewelted upper
in a manner to bring the unattached edge away
from the side of the upper and to cause the un
attached welt'edge to be drawn progressively into
registry with the edge of a sole while ‘the upper
is undertaken. When the J albert machine is em 40 is unsupported by a last, compressing the welt
ployed, the principal ?exure of the welt required '
in the direction of its thickness to clamp it against
in the practice of the present method is in draw
the sole with the welt in ?exed condition, inter
ing the unattached ‘edge widthwise of the welt
mittently inserting stitches connecting the welt
into registry with the sole edge but in some in
and sole while the parts are compressed, and re
stances, the Welt may be bent or ?attened still 45 leasing the parts between stitch inserting opera
further during sewing. When a continuous strip
tions to sew the parts together inrelati'vely un
of welt is attached along its edge to an upper
restrained condition with a continuous seam.
and is bent into the position illustrated in the
3. The method of making a prewelt shoe which
solid line of Fig. 2, the provision of a sole of the
comprises ?exing the welt on a prewelted upper
appropriate size to be sewed to the welt may be 50 to bring the unattached edge away from the side
facilitated by bringing the welted upper and a
of the upper and to cause the unattached welt‘
selected cut sole together. If the sole is selected
edge to be drawn progressively into registry with
which has a slightly larger peripheral edge than
the edge of a sole while the upper is unsupported
the length of unattached edge on the welt, after
by a last, compressing the welt in the direction of
beingr bent outwardly, the assembling operation
its thickness to clamp it against the sole with the
may be completed with the sole and welt edges
welt in ?exed condition, intermittently inserting
in accurate registry.
.
stitches connecting the welt and sole While the
The seam according to the present method is
parts are compressed, and releasing the compres
started at a point indicated by the reference
sion of the welt between stitch inserting opera
numeral all just in advance of one end of the
tions and applying a widthwise pressure to the
sole. After matching the welted upper with a
welt at a point between the unattached edge and
slightly larger sole, as well as practicable by eye,
the line of attachment with the upper w'hilethe
the sewing operation is carried around the adja
thickness compression is released to urge the '
cent curved end 81, which is the heel end for the
unattached edge against a sole guiding back gage
shoe illustrated, and continued along the side 86 65 whereby the parts may be connected together in
of the shoe sole shank. The seam begins to curve
at the other end 88 of the sole until that end
is ?nished. After sewing around the second end
855 of the sole, which is the toe end for the illus
relatively unrestrained condition with a continu
ous seam.
4. The method of making a. prewelt shoe which
comprises ?exing a continuous welt of a pre
trated shoe, the length ‘of welt lbetween the point 70 welted upper to bendthe unattached edge away
84 and a point 96 between the second end of the
sole and the relatively straight portion‘along the
other side 92 is stretched to make up the de
?ciency resulting from selecting a sole of slightly
greater peripheral edge length.
The de?ciency
from the side of the upper, and to cause the
unattached welt edge to be drawn progressively
into registry with the edge of a sole having a
periphery larger than the length of the welt
while the upper is unsupported by a last, start
5,407, as
7
ll
12
.
‘sole to be stretched before the stitches are in
edge of the sole while drawing the unattached
welt edge progressively into registry with the
sole edge, sewing around the other end of the
sole to cause the entire length of welt extending
along the second side edge of the sole to be
stretched before the stitches are inserted along
said second side edge, and sewing along said sec
ond side edge to complete the seam with the ?rst
and ?nal stitches overlapping,
serted.
'
9. In a machine for sewing the marginalipor
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while'une
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
forming‘ devices including a needle, work feeding
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot for
clamping and releasing the sole and welt to en
able movement of the work on the work support ,
' 5.‘ The method of making a prewelt shoe which
and the parts to become connected together in
relatively unrestrained condition, and a back
gage for guiding the outer edge of the welt and
comprises ?exing a continuous welt of apre
welted upper in a manner to bend the unattached
edge away from the side of the upper, and to
cause the unattached welt edge to be drawn pro
sole into registry, of means actingvto draw the
welt uniformly against the back gage.
gressively into registry with the edge of a sole
which is concave along one side of the shank
and substantially straight along the other side
of the shank, starting a seam near one end of -_,
the straight side, sewing around one end of the
sole and along the concave side, sewing around
the other end of the sole to cause the entire
length of welt extending along the substantially
straight side to be stretched before the stitches
are inserted, and sewing along the straight side
of the sole edge lastly tobring the ?rst and ?nal
stitches of the seam into overlapping relation.
7
ing along the relatively straight side edge of the
ing a seam in advance of one end of the sole,
sewing around that end and along a ?rst side
'
6. The method of sewing progressively the pro
jecting marginal portions of a cut sole to a con- 0
tinuous welt on a prewelted shoe upper with the
?rst and ?nal stitches of a seam overlapping while
the upper is unsupported on a last which coni
prises providing a sole having a periphery greater
than that of the unattached edge of the welt, _.
starting a seam in advance of one end of the
shoe, sewing around that end and along one side
of the shoe while drawing the welt edge progres
sively into registry with the sole edge and sew»
ing around the other end of the shoe to cause 40
the entire length of welt extending along the
other side of the shoe to be stretched before the
stitches are inserted.
7. The method of sewing progressively the
projecting marginal portions of a cut sole to a
continuous welt on a prewelted shoe upper with
the ?rst and ?nal stitches of the resulting seam
overlapping while the upper is unsupported on
a last which comprises providing a sole having
a periphery greater than that of the unattached ,
edge of the welt, starting the seam between the
outside of the shoe shank and the adjacent end
of a shoe, sewing next around said adjacent end
and along the insideof the shoe shank while
drawing the welt edge progressively into registry 4
with the sole edge and sewing around the other
end of the shoe to cause the entire length of welt
extending along the outside of. the shoe shank to
be stretched before the stitches are inserted.
8. The method of sewing progressively the
projecting marginal portions of a, cut sole having
a curved side and a relatively straight side to the
projecting edge of a continuous welt on a prewelt
shoe upper with the ?rst and ?nal stitches of
the resulting seam overlapping while the upper
is'unsupported on a last which comprises pro
viding a sole having a periphery greater than
that of the unattached edge of thewelt, start
ing the seam between the relatively straight side
of the sole edge and the adjacent end of the sole,
sewing next around the adjacent end and along
' the curved side of the sole edge while drawing
the welt edge progressively into registry with the
sole edge, and sewing around the other end of
the sole to cause the entire length of welt extend
10, In a machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge pcr
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
forming devices including a needle, 2. work feed»
ing awl, a work support shaped to enter the crease
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot for
clamping and releasing the sole and welt to enable
movement
the parts toofbecome
the work
connected
on the work
together
support
in rela
tively unrestrained condition,‘ and a back gage
for guiding the outer edge of the welt and sole
into registry, of a welt engaging pointed member
located along the line of feed inadvance of the
needle and actuated to draw an unsewed portion
the welt only uniformly against the back gage
before the awl penetrates the work in each sew
ing cycle.
ll. In 9, machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
forming devices including a needle, work feeding
means, a work support shapedto enter the crease
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot for
clamping and releasing the sole and welt to en
able movement of the work on the work support,
and a back gage opposite the point of needle
operation for guiding the outer edges of the welt
and sole into registry, of a welt engaging mem
ber located in advance of the point of needle
operation to draw an unsewed portion of the welt
only uniformly against the back gage.
12. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
forming devices including a needle, work feeding
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot
for clamping and releasing the sole and welt to
enable movement of the work on the work sup
port and the parts to- become connected together
in relatively unrestrained condition, and a back
gage for guiding the outer edge of the welt and
sole into registry, of a welt penetrating pointed
member located in advance of the needle to draw
an unse'wed portion of the welt only uniformly
against the back gage during each sewing cycle,
and means for gaging the distance from the outer‘
welt edge at which the pointed member pene
trates the welt.
13. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un- ’
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
forming devices including a needle, Work feeding
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease
’
2,407,909
13
14
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot for
clamping and releasing the sole and welt to en
able movement of the Work on the Work support
and the parts to become connected together in
relatively unrestrained condition, and a back gage
for guiding the outer edge of the welt and sole
into registry, of a welt penetrating pointed mem~
berlocated in advance of the needle to draw an
unsewed portion of the welt only uniformly
line with the seam inserted by the needle, and
yielding means for urging the arm in a direction
to cause the shoulder to follow the unattached
cated in advance of the point of needle operation,
edge of the welt.
17. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
forming devices including a needle, work feeding
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease
between the welt and‘ the upper, a presser foot for
clamping and releasing the sole and welt to en
able movement of the work on the work support
and the parts to become connected together in‘
relatively unrestrained condition, and a back gage
for guiding the outer edge of the welt and sole
into registry, of a welt penetrating claw located
in advance of the point of needle operation, an
arm on which the claw is pivotally mounted, an
actuating rod connected with the claw and ar
ranged parallel to the arm, mechanism for mov
ing the rod to cause the claw to penetrate the
welt, and mechanism for actuating the arm while
the claw engages the welt to draw the welt against
the back gage.
18. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
an arm on which the claw is mounted to enable
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper, the com
against the back gage during each sewing cycle, 10
and a gage for causing the pointed member to
penetrate the grain surface of the Welt inline
with the seam inserted by the needle.
14. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
, tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
15
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
forming devices including a needle, work feeding
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease 1
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot for 20
clamping and releasing the sole and welt to en
able movement of the work on the work support
and the parts to become connected together in
relatively unrestrained condition, and a back‘
gage for guiding the outer edge of the welt and 25
sole into. registry, of a welt penetrating claw lo
the claw to be moved bodily while engaging the
bination with stitch forming devices including a
welt, and mechanisms for actuating the claw to 30 needle and a needle looper, mechanisms for ac
penetrate the welt and for actuating the arm to
tuating the stitch forming devices, a work sup
cause the welt to be drawn against the back gage
port, a presser foot, mechanism for actuating the
during each sewing cycle.
'
presser foot to clamp and release the sole and
15. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
welt, and a back gage for guiding the outer edges
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge'por 35 of the welt and sole into registry, of a welt pene
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
trating claw located in advance of the point of
supported rby a last, the combination with stitch
needle operation, an arm on which the claw is
forming devices including a needle, work feeding
mounted, connections between the looper mecha
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease
nism and the claw for actuating the claw towards
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot 40 and from the welt, and connections between the
for clamping and releasing the sole and welt to
presser foot mechanism and the arm upon which
enable movement of the work on the work support
the claw is mounted for moving the arm to draw
and the parts to become connected together in
the welt against the back gage during each sewing
relatively unrestrained condition, and a back
cycle.
,
gage for guiding the outer edge of the welt and 45
19.121 a machine for sewing the marginal por
sole into registry, of a claw acting in advance of
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
the point of needle operation to penetrate the
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
grain surface of the welt, an arm‘ on which the
supported by a last, the combination with stitch
claw is mounted to enable the claw to be moved
forming devices including a needle, a work feed-‘
50
bodily in each sewing cycle while engaging the
ing awl, a work support shaped to enter the crease
welt in a direction to draw the welt against the
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot
back gage. and a shoulder on the arm engaging
for clamping and releasing the sole and welt to
the outer welt edge to cause the claw to penetrate
enable movement of the work on the work sup
the welt in line with the seam inserted by the
port and the parts to become connected together
55 in relatively unrestrained condition, and a back
needle.
16. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
gage for guiding the outer edge of the welt and
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge portions
sole into registry, of a welt engaging pointed
of the welt on a prewelted upper while unsup-'
member located along the line of feed in advance
ported by a last, the combination with stitch
of the needle and actuated to draw an unsewed
forming devices including a needle, work feeding 60 portion of the welt only uniformly against the
means, a Work support shaped to enter the crease
back gage before the awl penetrates the work
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot for
in each sewing cycle and to move with the welt
clamping and releasing the sole and welt to en
during feeding movements of the awl.
able movement of the work‘ on the work support
20. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
and the parts to become connected together in 65 tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
relatively unrestrained condition, and a back gage
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while un
for guiding the outer edge of the welt and sole
supported by a last. the combination with stitch
into registry, of a claw acting in advance of the
forming devices including a needle, work feeding
point of needle operation to penetrate the grain
means, a work support shaped to enter the crease
surface of the welt, an arm on which the claw is
between the welt and the upper, a presser foot
mounted to enable the claw to be moved bodily
for clamping and releasing the sole and welt to
in each sewing cycle while engaging the welt in
enable movement of the work on the work sup
a direction to draw the welt against the back gage,
port and the parts to become connected together
a shoulder on the arm engaging the outer welt
in relatively unrestrained condition. and a back
edge to cause the claw to penetrate the welt in 75 gage for guiding the outer edge of the welt and
2,407,902
15
sole into registry, of a welt‘ penetrating claw lo
cated in advance of the point of needle operation,
i6
portions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge
welt in the direction of the feed and transversely
portions of the welt on a prewelted upper
unsupported by a last, the combination
stitch forming devices including a needle,
feeding means, a work support shaped to
of the feed, and mechanisms for actuating the
the crease between the welt and the upper, a
an arm on which the claw is mounted to enable
the claw to be moved bodily while engaging the
claw to penetrate the welt and the arm to cause
the Welt to be drawn by the claw against the back
gage before the awl penetrates the welt in each
sewing cycle, and means for actuating the arm to
move the claw in the direction of feed after the
awl penetrates the work.
21. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por
tions of the welt on a prewelted shoe upper, "the
combination with stitch forming devices includ
ing a needle, a needle looper, a work penetrat
ing and feeding awl, mechanisms for actuating
the stitch forming devices, a Work support,
mechanism for actuating the presser foot to -.
clamp and release the sole and welt and a back
' gage for guiding the outer edge vfaces of the welt
and sole into registry, of a welt penetrating claw
located in advance of the point of needle oper
ation, an arm on which the claw is mounted,
connections between the looper mechanism and
the ‘claw for actuating the claw towards and
from the welt, connections between the presser
foot mechanism and the arm upon which the
claw is mounted for moving the claw to draw
the welt against the back gage, and other con
nections between the awl feeding mechanism
and the arm to move the claw in the direction’of
feed while engaging the welt during each sewing
cycle.
‘
while
with
work
enter
presser foot for clamping and releasing the sole
and welt to enable movement of the work on
the work support and the parts to become con
nected together in relatively unrestrained con
dition, and a back gage for guiding the outer
edge of the welt and sole into registry, of a
hook ended?nger passing between unsewed por
tions of the shoe sole and the welt with its hook
end engaging the inner edge of the welt in ad
vance of the point of needle operation to draw
theouter edge of the welt uniformly against
the back gage, manually operated ’means for
locking the ?nger, and means acting when the
?nger is unlocked to withdraw it from between
the sole and welt.
25. In a machine for sewing the marginal
portions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge
portions of the welt on a prewelted upper while,
unsupported by a last, the combination with
stitch forming devices including a needle/work
feeding means, a work support shaped to enter
the crease between the welt, and the upper, a
presser foot for clamping and releasing the sole
and vwelt to enable movement of the work on the
work support and the parts to become connected
together in relatively unrestrained condition, y‘
and a back gage for guiding the outer edge of the
welt and sole into registry, of a hook ended ?nger
- passing between unsewed portions ‘of the shoe
sole and the welt with its hook end engaging the, _
22. In a machine for sewing the marginal
inner edge of the welt in advance of the point
portions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge
of needle operation to draw the outer edge of the
portions of the welt on a prewelted upper while
welt uniformly against the back gage, manually
unsupported by a last, the combination with
stitch forming devices including a needle, work 40 operated means for swinging the ?nger towards
the sole to enable the hook end to be with-V
feeding means, a work support shaped to enter
drawn from between the sole and welt, a lock
the crease between the welt and the upper, a
arranged to prevent withdrawal of the ?nger
presser foot for clamping and releasing the sole
from between the sole and welt and to release
and Welt to enable movement of the work on the
work support and the parts to become connected 45 the ?nger for withdrawal when the hook end
is swung towards the sole, and yielding means
together in relatively unrestrained condition, and
for withdrawing the ?nger from between the sole
a back gage for guiding the outer edge of the
and welt when released.
welt and sole into registry, of a hook ended
25. In 'a machine for sewing the marginal
?nger passing between unsewed portions of the
shoe sole and the welt with its hook end engag 50 portions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge
portions of the welt on a prewelted upper while‘
ing the inner edge of the welt in advance of the
unsupported by a last, the combination with
point of needle operation to draw the outer edge
stitch forming devices including a needle, work
of the welt uniformly against the back gage.
feeding means, a work support shaped to enter
23. In a machine for sewing the marginal por
tions of a shoe sole to the projecting edge por- '
tions of the welt on a prewelted upper while
the crease between the welt and the upper, a
unsupported by a, last, the combination with
stitch forming devices including a needle, ‘work
feeding means, a work support shaped. to enter
and welt to enable movement of the work on the
presser foot for clamping and releasing the sole
'work support and the parts to become connected
together in relatively unrestrained condition,
the crease between the welt and the upper, a 60 and a back gage for guiding the outer edge of
presser foot for clamping and releasing the sole
the welt and sole into registry, of a hook ended
?nger passing'between unsewed portions of the
' shoe sole and the welt with its hook end engag
work support and the parts to become connected
ing the inner edge of the welt in advance of the
together in relatively unrestrained condition, and
a back gage for guiding the outer edge of the 65 point of needle operation to draw the outer edge
of the welt uniformly against the back gage,
welt sole and into registry, of a hook ended
manually operated means for swinging the ?nger
?nger passingbetween unsewed portions of the
towards the sole to enable the hook end to be
shoe sole and the welt with its hook end en
, withdrawn from between the sole and welt, yield
gaging the inner edge of the welt in‘ advance of
the point of needle operation to draw the outer 70 ing means forwithdrawing the ?nger, and a pin
and bayonet slot device for locking the finger
edge of, the welt uniformly against the back
against withdrawalfrom between the sole and
gage, and means for retracting the ?nger from
welt while the hook end is in a position to engage
between the shoe sole and welt to enable the
the inner edge of the welt and for releasing the
seam to» be completed with its ends overlapping.
, 24.111. a machine for sewing the marginal 75 ?nger when the hook. end is disengaged from
and welt to enable movement of the work on the
2,407,963
the inner edge of the welt and swung towards
the sole.
27. In a machine for sewing a sole to the welt
of a preweited upper in which the outer edge of
the sole is greater in length than the outer edge
of the flattened welt before attachment‘ thereto,
the combination of work supporting, guiding and
feeding means and stitch forming devices, said
guiding means including devices for bringing the
18
outer edges of the welt and sole into registry.
28. In a, machine for sewing a sole to the welt
of a prewelted upper, the combination of work
supporting, guiding and feeding means, stitch
forming devices, and means for shifting the welt
widthwise along the sole during the sewing.
EDWARD QUINN.
ISRAEL I. HERSEY.
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