Патент USA US2409046код для вставки
“ 8, 1946. c. w. >.lol-msc'm ETAL. 2,409,045 SLIP STITGHING MAcHîNE' Filed Feb. 17, 1943 if?l!|.r 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 .f_,oQ ..@NN IÍLl. ma L F s, 194s? C. W, JOHNSON ETAL SLIP: STITCHING MACHINE Filed Feb. 17, 1943 2,409,045 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 „ài v., Y,„Y - "IINVENToRs v 4., ww. @mm3m . Carl Zll'fûhrlson I andfosepÍz/Z‘ß’éumalr Jlí?arngy ÜCÍ- 8, 1946» c. w. JOHNSON ETAL » 2, ,045 SLIP STITCHING MACHINE Filed Feb. 17, 1943 3 She'ets-Sheet 3 ' 520 2'00 ,a„H5 5m.l. E¿E.375M .3 3 FFL„FF_.3 mm m5 2- Í m _m J w U„al .mw 00.Ú omOW ,TÍw .M w m. B w . Vß, ow my M FL M5 , 2 M wmh2 ha3 O „J WMM. mmsm 2,409,045 Patented Oct. 8, 1946 UNITED STATES PATENT vÜFFICE 2,409,045 SLIP STITCHING MACHINE Carl WV. Johnson, Brooklyn, and Joseph A. Neu mair, Hollis, N. Y., assìgnors to American Ma. chine & Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application February 17, 1943, Serial No. 476,164 5 Claims. (Cl. 11,2--1’74l 2 l _ This invention relates to necktie sewing ma chines, more particularly to machines Vof the type wherein the associated necktie fabric and lining are pleated and then stitched together by a long needle to pass therethrough a thread whose ends are knotted to unite the necktie parts by a re silient slip stitch. In Patent No. 2,383,654 grant ed on our prior application, Serial No, 428,684, filed January 29, 1942, of which this application _ spectively a plan view and side elevation of -a machine exemplifying the invention; Fig. 3 is a fragmentary side elevation of the machine showing the pleating members on the> die head interengaged with the lower pleating members, together with the mechanism for dis placing both sets of pleating members into their collapsed positions wherein they pleat the folded fabric and associated necktie lining just before constitutes a continuation-impart, there were l() the needle stitches the same together; provided a set of crimpers having rigid teeth in terengaging with each other to form a series oi pleats in the associated necktie fabric and lining, through which a needle was passed to stitch the saine together. It was found that with necktie materials of more or less resilient construction. Fig. 4 is a similar fragmentary view of the pleating members showing the same in their ex banded positions, the die head being depressed suniciently to permit the holding springs on its pleating members to clamp the fabric and lining to the lower pleating members; Fig. 5 is a fragmentary side elevation showing that when the parts were stitched together, and the stationary and expansible pleating members then turned to form the finished necktie, that interengaged upon a folded fabric and lining to the appearance thereof would be imperfect, be cause in the pleating operation the materials 20 gether with the mechanism for operating the needle; were stretched unduly. In the case of the non Fig. 5a is a cross-section on the line 5ft-_5a of resilient necktie materials, they might even be Fig. 5; torn during the pleating operation.` With these Fig. 6 is a sectional end elevation, taken on disadvantages in mind, it is an object of our in the line 6-6 of Fig. 2; 25 vention to provide spaced expansible members Figs. 7-10 are schematic views illustrating suc which interengage with each other upon the as cessive stages in the positioning of the lining and sociated necktie fabric and lining and are then necktie fabric and the folding of the latter; contracted or collapsed to pleat the necktie parts, Fig. 1l is a fragmentary sectional view showing so that the same may be stitched together with an elongated needle. In this manner, the muti 30 the needle stitching together the lining and fab ric while the same are held in pleated condition lation and the distortion of the necktie materials by the pleating members; and referred to would be avoided. Fig. 12 is a detail sectional view of the revers Still another object of the invention is to pro ing mechanism taken on the line I2-l2 of Fig. 2. vide mechanism for automatically folding the The construction of the machine selected to necktie fabric with its edges into overlapping re exemplify the invention will now be described lationship after the lining and fabric have been with reference to Figs. 1-6 of the drawings. The manually positioned in outspread relationship pedestal 200, which is suitably supported in a between the pleating members. ' Another object is to provide a novel construc tion of the crimpers wherein the members en gaging the associated necktie material and lining are yieldingly held apart and are contracted by automatic mechanism. According to still an other object of the invention, additional crimpers manner, not shown. from frame 322 (Fig. 6) sup ports a bracket 202. and a similar bracket 264 is supported in the ends of the frame 322. The bracket 202 has a pair of slide-ways 2GB formed in its inner face and extending longitudinally thereof, and the bracket 204 is similarly provided with a pair of slide-ways 208 aligned with slide are provided having interengaging teeth which ways 20B. A series of crimper bars or pleating form a series of pleats in the leading end of the members 2l@ are each provided with a pair of lining, which are smaller than the pleats formed transverse bores into which are ñtted the exten in the associated portions of the fabric and lining, sions 2li projecting inwardly from alternate whereby the stitches formed in the leading end of the lining will be shorter than the stitches 50 pintles of the sprocket chains 22B which may be of a standard type. The remaining pintles of uniting the fabric and lining. the sprocket chains 229 are each provided with With these and other objects not specifically outwardly projecting extensions `,carrying rollers mentioned in view, the invention consists in cer 224 supported in the slide-ways 226 and 208. tain constructions and combinations hereinafter One end of a compression spring 226 is seated described. against the lower stationary crimper 228 (Fig. 5) In the accompanying drawings which form a and extends through axial holes 23B in the part of this specification and in which like char crimpers 2in and is seated in a socket 232 in the acters of reference indicate the same or like outermost crimper Zilla (Fig. 3), each of the parts: Figs. 1 and 2 are outline drawings showing re 60 crimpers ZID being provided with pins 235 ex 2,409,045 3 tending transversely through their holes 230 and between adjacent coils of the spring 226, whereby the crimpers 210 and 210a are normally main tained in the separated or expanded positions shown in Fig. 4. The upper crimpers 240 are similarly supported on extensions 242 of alternate pintles of the sprocket chains 244 which extend inwardly into the transverse bores 246 of the crimpers 240 (see 4 The forward edge 305 of the folder template 304, has a configuration corresponding to the longitu dinal curvature of the fold line along which the fabric F should be folded to overlap its longitu dina1 edges as illustrated in Figs. 9 and 10, and the template 304 is advanced forwardly as indi cated by the arrow in Fig. 8 to the position shown in Fig. 9. The folder template 304 is provided with sight holes to view the necktie materials and Fig. 6). The remaining pintles of the sprocket 10 supported by a block 306 and rollers 301 carried chains 244 have outwardly extending projections 248 which carry rollers 250 supported in the slide ways 252 of the crimper head 256. Several pairs of the crimpers 240 are connected by coiled springs 251 which clamp the outspread lining and folded fabric positioned on the crimpers 210 against the latter during the descent of the crimper head 256, as shown in Fig. 4, and hold them in position while both sets of crimpers are collapsed, as hereinafter described, to pleat the . tie materials. The crimpers 240 and the outermost crimper 241m are normally spread apart by a compression spring 260 similar to the spring 226 and similarly seated at one end in a socket 232a of crimper by the shafts 302 (Fig. 6) . Block 306 is provided with a lug connected by a link 308 to a cam lever 310 mounted on a fulcrum shaft 312 supported in a bearing lug 314 of the frame pedestal 200. Cam lever 310 has a cam roller 316 engaging thc periphery of plate cam 318 fastened on shaft 282. A tension spring (Fig. 6) connected to lever 310 holds cam roller 316 against cam 318, and the latter has the proper configuration to advance the block 306 forwardly with the folder template 304 into the position shown in Fig. 9. A table 320 supported by frame 322 has an opening 324 provided with grooves in its lateral sides wherein are slidably mountedthe tongues of a strip 326 secured to the bottom of a folder 24041, and similarly passing through axial bores of plate 328 resting on the table 320. The plate 328 the crimpers 240 and seated at its other end may be equipped with gauge pieces 330 similar to against the crimper head. Each of the crimpers the members 31 shown in Figs. 4-6 of our co 240 is provided with a pin 236a extending through pending application, S. N. 428,684, filed January its axial bore and engaging adjacent coils of 30 ‘29, 1942, on which Patent No. 2,383,654 was spring 260, whereby these crimpers are spread granted, and similarly adjustable on the folder apart. « plate 328. One longitudinal edge of the necktie The crimper head 256 is provided with an in fabric F is positioned against the pieces 330 and tegral crimper 262 having a series of teeth spread laterally, as shown in Fig. 8, over the adapted to interengagewith the teeth of the sta- ' tionary crimper 228 and form a series of narrow pleats in the leading end of an outspread lining L positioned manually on crimper 228. The crimper head 256 is also provided with an inte plate 328 and the table 320 into a position over lapping the lining L previously positioned on crimpers 210. The centrally arranged lug on strip 326 is con nected by a link 340 to a cam lever 342 having a gral crimper 264 spaced sufficiently from the 40 cam roller 344 held against the periphery of a crimper 262 to permit manual insertion therebe disk cam 346 mounted on shaft 282 by a tension tween of the leading end of the necktie fabric F, after the same has been superposed on the lining L and folded transversely to lap its longi tudinal edges on each other. The crimper head 256 is provided with integral arms 210 mounted on shafts 212 supported in baering lugs 214 of the pedestal 200. One of the arms is provided with a hooked extension -216 (Fig. 2) carrying a cam»roller 218, which is held by a tension spring (Fig. 6) against the periphery of a. cam 280 supported on a cam shaft 282 mounted in bearing lugs 284 (Fig. 6) of pedestal spring connected to lever 342, whereby the folder plate 328 is advanced to fold the outspread fabric F over the edge 305 of the template 304, as shown in Figs. 9 and 10. When the template 364 is ad vanced it slides over the tips of the fingers 300 and is thereby lifted into the upwardly inclined position shown in Fig. 8, until enough of its weight is imposed upon fingers 300 to depress the same sufficiently to permit the template to move into the position shown in Fig. 9. After the tem~ plate 384 and the plate 328 are retracted the crimper head 256 is lowered to cause the crimpers 200. The periphery of cam 280 has the proper 240, 262, 264, to clamp the lapped edges of the shape to permit the crimper head to be lowered fabric against the lining positioned on the crimp into the position shown in Fig. 4 to thereby inter ers 210, 210e and 228. engage the crimpers 262 and 264 with the crimpers A bracket 350 is provided with lugs 352 and 210 and 228, at the proper time following the fold 354 which are arranged to engage the outermost ing of the fabric superposed upon the lining posi crimpers 240a and 21011 while the crimper head tioned upon the crimpers 2 I 0, 2 I 8a and 228. Then GO 256 is lowering the crimpers 240, 240a into the the crimpers 210 and ZIGa'and 240 and 246e are positions shown in Fig. 3 and thereby press the simultaneously displaced longitudinally and lat crimpers 240, 249a and 210, 210a together into the erally into the positions shown in Fig. 3 when the positions shown in Figs. 3 and 5 against the re spacing thereof is decreased by mechanism here sistance of the springs 226 and 260. While the inafter described. y crimpers are being pressed together the pintle ex Fingers 300 are pivotally mounted on stub tensions 242 supporting crimpers 240, 240a are shafts 302 supported by brackets fastened to the moved downwardly and the pintle extensions 214 top of the pedestal 200 and are normally main are moved upwardly to move the crimpers into tained in a horizontal position by compression engagement with each other. springs 303 (Fig. 6) interposed between the fingers 300 and pedestal 200. The vertical faces of the free ends of fingers 300 serve as gauges against which one longitudinal edge of the lining L may be positioned when it is spread. upon the crimpers 210, 21nd and 228, as shown in Fíg- ',7 Thus there are formed a series of transverse pleats in the lining L and the lapped edges of the fabric F superimposed thereon. For this pur pose the bracket 350 is fastened to a rack bar 356 supported in bearings 358 of the pedestal 200 and provided with rack teeth 360 on its bottom. A 2,409,045 5 gear segment 352 carried by a cam lever 363 mounted on a stub shaft 354 supported by pedes tal 208 meshes with the rack teeth 388. Cam le ver 353 carries a cam roller 365 engaging with a cam track formed in a barrel cam 368 supported on cam shaft 282, whereby the bracket 35D is oper ated at the proper time to collapse the criinpers and thereby pleat the fabric and lining. A needle 380 is attached at its butt end to the sprocketV chain 382 forwardly to advance the nee dle through the pleated necktie parts, and then engaged with other ñange of wheel 425 to drive the sprocket chain 382 in the opposite direction. to withdraw >the needle from the stitched neck tie materials. On the shaft 454 supported in bearings of frame 322 is loosely mounted the driving member 455 of a one-revolution clutch., this member carrying a sprocket which is driven upper run of a sprocket chain 382 running over by a sprocket chain 458 from a sprocket on the sprockets 384 and 385 mounted on shafts 388 and 39€)V supported in a bracket 392. The latter is equipped with strips 451i and 482 respectively, overlying and underlying the upper run of engagement with a driven clutch member (not sprocket chain 382, the bar 45B having a slot in` its bottom wherein the needle 384 is guided as it is advanced through the needle guide 454, which may vbe formed on bracket 352, and drive shaft of the gear reduction unit M. The driving member 455 carries a connecting member 465. which is movable axially thereof into shown) which is fastened to the shaft 454. A spring (not shown) urges the member 460 into through the pleated necktie fabric and lining to engagement with a recess in the driven clutch member whereby the helical gear 412 fastened on shaft 45.4 drives the helical gear 413 on the cam tooth of crimper 228, and the adjoining crimper groove of the connecting member 4.55, permitting stitch the same together. The construction cf 20 shaft 282. The ratio of the helical gears 412 and 413 is 1 to 2, so that when the shaft 454 is turned the bracket 382 and the mechanism for operating one revolution, the shaft 282 is turned a half and guiding the needle is similar to that shown revolution. The member 458 has a transverse in our above mentioned application. groove which is aligned with a circumferential The thread T is drawn from a spool S mounted on a holder H and passed through a thread guide 25 groove in the member 455. A latch 482, which .has a concave face engaging the base of said G similar to guide 45 shown in Fig. 1 of said ap groove and a wedge-shaped tip adapted to enter plication and threaded through the eye of nee the transverse groove in member 460, thereby dle >38€'. The free end of the thread after being withdraws the latter from engagement with the removed from the eye of the needle may be grasped by the operator after the point of the 30 driven clutch member. The latch 452 is ful crumed on the pedestal 228 and is connected by a needle is advanced through and beyond the link 454 to an arm 455 fastened on a shaft 459r crimpers 2 l 8a and 2450i. The operator then holds supported in bearings of the frame 322. On the the free end of the thread while the needle is arm 46E is pivotally mounted a block 415 in which retracted to initial position. the lower end of the link 454 is slidably mounted, , It will be noted that the pleats formed by the the extreme lower end of link 4.54 being provided crimpers 228 and 282 are somewhat smaller than with a stop nut 411. The shaft 459 projects for those produced by the crimpers 2|!) and 245, wardly from the front of frame 322 and on its whereby the stitches formed in the leading end of projecting portion is mounted a pedal 485. When the lining L will be shorter than those uniting the lining and fabric. However, the pleat 40 the pedal 4B!! is depressed by the attendant, the latch 452 is disengaged from the transverse formed between the crimper 264, the adjoining 2 if) will be common to both the lining and fabric, because both the lining and fabric are positioned between the interengaged faces thereof. How ever, since the face of the crimper 254 engaging the outer face of the adjoining tooth of crimper 228 is narrower than the other face of crimper 254, the pleat so formed will be smaller than the pleats formed by crimpers 213 and 240, and a ' single small stitch will be produced, uniting the fabric and 'lining ahead of the following longer stitches. As shown in Figs. 6 and 1l, the crimp ers 2li) and 245 are provided with slots on their interengaging faces through which the needle passes, and the other crimpers are also provided with similar slots for the same purpose. On the shaft 388 is fastened a sprocket which is driven by a sprocket chain 428 from a sprocket 422 mounted on shaft 424 (Fig. 2). Shaft 424 is supported in frame 322 and carries a friction wheel 426. The wheel 425 is driven by a cone pulley 421 supported by a shaft 428 carried by an arrn 429. The arm 429 is pivoted on a pedestal the latter to engage and drive the driven clutch member, whereby the shaft 454 will be rotated one revolution until the latch 452 reengages in the transverse groove of the connecting member 4523 and withdraws the latter from engagement with the driven clutch member and thereby stops the cam shaft 282 in the position shown in Fig. 3. After the member 35S has been displaced in wardly during the half revolution of shaft 252 just described, to contact the crimpers during the interengagement thereof upon the outspread lining and the fabric previously folded by the coaction of plates 584 and 328, to pleat these necktie parts, the latch 462 reengages the trans verse groove of member 458 and withdraws the l latter frein the driven clutch member and there by stops the rctati'on of shaft 282 and maintains the member in its inward position. The handle 434 is then displaced in one direction to bring cone pulley 421 into engagement with wheel 425, to advance the needle through the pleated necktie parts, until it projects beyond the crimp ers 2Min and 248e. The free end of the thread 43s supported on the base of frame 322 and is is held by the attendant while she swings the connected by a link 432 passing through an aper handle 434 in the opposite direction to engage ture in the front of frame 322 to a handle 434 the pulley 421 with the ether flange of wheel 426 pivoted on a lug 435 provided on the front cf and thereby retract the needle to initial position. frame 322. The shaft 428 carries a pulley 448 which is driven by an endless belt 442 from a, '."L: The attendant then again steps on the pedal 485 and the shaft 2%2 is driven another half revolu pulley on the drive shaft of the motor-driven tion until the latch 462 reengages with the transgear reduction unit M, the belt being guided over verse groove of member 465 and stops the rota' idler pulleys 444. By swinging the handle 434, tion of shaft 282, the crimper head 258 being thus the cone pulley may be engaged with the interior of one ñange of the wheel 425, to drive the 75 lifted and the pusher 350 returned to its outward . 2,409,045 position to permit the pleating members to be expanded by respective springs 22B-and 260. The pleated fabric and lining are then spread out on the thread T and the thread is then severedV and its ends are knotted, the severed length of thread being sufficient to provide a resilient slip stitch uniting the lining and fabric. Upon removal of the stitched necktie parts from the machine, they are turned inside out to form the finished necktie. 8 which a lining may be positioned with its length extending transversely thereof, and a folded necktie fabric having its longitudinal edges lapped upon each other may be positioned with its lapped edges extending along -a longitudinal axis of said lining, a series of spaced members having triangular teeth adapted to be engaged with the portions of said positioned necktie parts extending between the teeth of said elements, When the stitched lining and fabric are removed, 10 means for maintaining said elements and mem a new lining and fabric may be positioned for bers in spaced relation, means for moving said folding of the fabric and stitching of the latter to the lining in the manner just described. It may be noted that the springs 251 serve to members to engage said teeth of said members with and thereby flex the portions of said necktie parts intermediate said elements, and mechanism prevent slippage of the portions of the fabric .. for moving said elements and members trans and lining between the pleating members 2| 0 and versely toward each other simultaneously with 240 as they interengage, which might occur if the engagement of the teeth of said members such springs were not provided. It may be pref with said necktie parts, to decrease the spacing erable to have the springs 251 more closely ar cf said elements and members while the necktie ranged upon the plating mmbers adjacent the 20 parts are being flexed by said members and ele pusher 352. ments and thereby pleat the lining and fabric for What is claimed is: stitching of the same together by a needle, an 1. In a machine for making neckties, a row of spaced elements upon which a. lining may be elongated needle adapted to be passed through the pleats of the fabric and lining heldy between positioned with its length extending transversely 25 said elements and members, and mechanism for thereof, and a folded necktie fabric having its longitudinal edges lapped upon each other may operating said needle while the fabric and lining are held in pleated condition by said crimpers and elements for stitching the lining and fabric be positioned with its lapped edges extending along a longitudinal axis of said lining, a series together. of spaced members adapted to be engaged with 30 4. In a machine for making neckties, a row of the portions of said positioned necktie parts ex spaced elements upon which a lining may be tending between said elements, springs connected positioned with its length extending transversely to said elements and members and thereby main thereof, and e, folded necktie fabric having its taining them in spaced relation, means for mov longitudinal edges lapped upon each other may ing said members to engage said members with 35 be positioned with its lapped edges extending and thereby flex the portions of said necktie parts along a longitudinal axis of said lining, of yield intermediate said elements, and mechanism for ing devices for clamping the positioned fabric moving said elements and members transversely and lining against said elements, a series of toward each other to decrease the spacing there spaced members adapted to be engaged with the of and thereby pleat the lining and fabric for 40 portions of said positioned necktie parts extend stitching of the same together by a needle. ing between said elements, means for moving said 2. In a sewing machine, the combination with devices and members to engage said devices with a set of spaced vertical crimper members having said necktie parts to cause said devices to clamp teeth on their upper ends, of a pair of primary 45 spaced portions thereof against said elements sprocket chains each having pintles connected to _and then engage said members with and thereby each of said crimper members whereby said ñex the portions of said necktie parts interme members are supported on said primary chains diate said elements, and mechanism for moving for movement transversely toward and away said elements and members transversely toward from each other, means for expanding said pri 50 each other to decrease the spacing thereof and mary chains to maintain said members in spaced thereby pleat the lining and fabric for stitching relationship, the upper ends of said members be of the same together by a needle, said. devices be ing aligned with each other and adapted to sup ing supported by said members. port an outspread necktie lining and a folded ' 5. In a, crimping device for necktie stitching necktie fabric, a set of spaced vertical crimper 55 machines, the combination with opposed rows of elements having teeth on their lower ends, a pair equally spaced relatively movable crimper teeth, of secondary sprocket chains each having pintles the tips of the crimper teeth of one row being connected to each of said elements whereby said staggered with respect to those of the other row elements are supported on said secondary chains and suiiîciently spaced therefrom to admit there for movement toward and away from each other, 60 between an outspread necktie fabric, and means a head on which said secondary chains are sup for simultaneously and uniformly decreasing the ported, devices on said head for expanding said secondary chains to maintain said elements in spacing of the teeth of each of said rows to avoid stretching of the necktie fabric as the teeth of spaced relationship, said head being movable to the opposite rows are brought together to crimp interengage said elements with said members, 65 said fabric, said means including a linkage con and means for simultaneously contracting said necting the teeth in each one of said rows, mech primary and secondary chains and thereby mov anism for exerting pressure endwise of said rows ing said elements and members transversely on said linkages to collapse the same, and de toward each other to decrease their spacing while vices for moving the teeth of one row toward the said members and elements are being interen 70 teeth in the other row during said collapsing op gaged whereby said lining and fabric are pleated for stitching of the same by an elongated needle. 3. In a machine for making neckties, a row of spaced elements having triangular teeth upon eration. CARL W. JOHNSON. JOSEPH A. NEUMAIR.