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Патент USA US2409046

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8, 1946.
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Filed Feb. 17, 1943
3 Sheets-Sheet 1
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Filed Feb. 17, 1943
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Carl Zll'fûhrlson I
ÜCÍ- 8, 1946»
Filed Feb. 17, 1943
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Patented Oct. 8, 1946
Carl WV. Johnson, Brooklyn, and Joseph A. Neu
mair, Hollis, N. Y., assìgnors to American Ma.
chine & Foundry Company, a corporation of
New Jersey
Application February 17, 1943, Serial No. 476,164
5 Claims. (Cl. 11,2--1’74l
_ This invention relates to necktie sewing ma
chines, more particularly to machines Vof the type
wherein the associated necktie fabric and lining
are pleated and then stitched together by a long
needle to pass therethrough a thread whose ends
are knotted to unite the necktie parts by a re
silient slip stitch. In Patent No. 2,383,654 grant
ed on our prior application, Serial No, 428,684,
filed January 29, 1942, of which this application
spectively a plan view and side elevation of -a
machine exemplifying the invention;
Fig. 3 is a fragmentary side elevation of the
machine showing the pleating members on the>
die head interengaged with the lower pleating
members, together with the mechanism for dis
placing both sets of pleating members into their
collapsed positions wherein they pleat the folded
fabric and associated necktie lining just before
constitutes a continuation-impart, there were l() the needle stitches the same together;
provided a set of crimpers having rigid teeth in
terengaging with each other to form a series oi
pleats in the associated necktie fabric and lining,
through which a needle was passed to stitch the
saine together. It was found that with necktie
materials of more or less resilient construction.
Fig. 4 is a similar fragmentary view of the
pleating members showing the same in their ex
banded positions, the die head being depressed
suniciently to permit the holding springs on its
pleating members to clamp the fabric and lining
to the lower pleating members;
Fig. 5 is a fragmentary side elevation showing
that when the parts were stitched together, and
the stationary and expansible pleating members
then turned to form the finished necktie, that
upon a folded fabric and lining to
the appearance thereof would be imperfect, be
cause in the pleating operation the materials 20 gether with the mechanism for operating the
were stretched unduly. In the case of the non
Fig. 5a is a cross-section on the line 5ft-_5a of
resilient necktie materials, they might even be
Fig. 5;
torn during the pleating operation.` With these
Fig. 6 is a sectional end elevation, taken on
disadvantages in mind, it is an object of our in
line 6-6 of Fig. 2;
vention to provide spaced expansible members
Figs. 7-10 are schematic views illustrating suc
which interengage with each other upon the as
cessive stages in the positioning of the lining and
sociated necktie fabric and lining and are then
fabric and the folding of the latter;
contracted or collapsed to pleat the necktie parts,
Fig. 1l is a fragmentary sectional view showing
so that the same may be stitched together with
an elongated needle. In this manner, the muti 30 the needle stitching together the lining and fab
ric while the same are held in pleated condition
lation and the distortion of the necktie materials
by the pleating members; and
referred to would be avoided.
Fig. 12 is a detail sectional view of the revers
Still another object of the invention is to pro
ing mechanism taken on the line I2-l2 of Fig. 2.
vide mechanism for automatically folding the
The construction of the machine selected to
necktie fabric with its edges into overlapping re
exemplify the invention will now be described
lationship after the lining and fabric have been
with reference to Figs. 1-6 of the drawings. The
manually positioned in outspread relationship
pedestal 200, which is suitably supported in a
between the pleating members.
' Another object is to provide a novel construc
tion of the crimpers wherein the members en
gaging the associated necktie material and lining
are yieldingly held apart and are contracted by
automatic mechanism.
According to still an
other object of the invention, additional crimpers
manner, not shown. from frame 322 (Fig. 6) sup
ports a bracket 202. and a similar bracket 264
is supported in the ends of the frame 322. The
bracket 202 has a pair of slide-ways 2GB formed
in its inner face and extending longitudinally
thereof, and the bracket 204 is similarly provided
with a pair of slide-ways 208 aligned with slide
are provided having interengaging teeth which
ways 20B. A series of crimper bars or pleating
form a series of pleats in the leading end of the
members 2l@ are each provided with a pair of
lining, which are smaller than the pleats formed
transverse bores into which are ñtted the exten
in the associated portions of the fabric and lining,
sions 2li projecting inwardly from alternate
whereby the stitches formed in the leading end
of the lining will be shorter than the stitches 50 pintles of the sprocket chains 22B which may be
of a standard type. The remaining pintles of
uniting the fabric and lining.
the sprocket chains 229 are each provided with
With these and other objects not specifically
outwardly projecting extensions `,carrying rollers
mentioned in view, the invention consists in cer
224 supported in the slide-ways 226 and 208.
tain constructions and combinations hereinafter
One end of a compression spring 226 is seated
against the lower stationary crimper 228 (Fig. 5)
In the accompanying drawings which form a
and extends through axial holes 23B in the
part of this specification and in which like char
crimpers 2in and is seated in a socket 232 in the
acters of reference indicate the same or like
outermost crimper Zilla (Fig. 3), each of the
Figs. 1 and 2 are outline drawings showing re
60 crimpers ZID being provided with pins 235 ex
tending transversely through their holes 230 and
between adjacent coils of the spring 226, whereby
the crimpers 210 and 210a are normally main
tained in the separated or expanded positions
shown in Fig. 4.
The upper crimpers 240 are similarly supported
on extensions 242 of alternate pintles of the
sprocket chains 244 which extend inwardly into
the transverse bores 246 of the crimpers 240 (see
The forward edge 305 of the folder template 304,
has a configuration corresponding to the longitu
dinal curvature of the fold line along which the
fabric F should be folded to overlap its longitu
dina1 edges as illustrated in Figs. 9 and 10, and
the template 304 is advanced forwardly as indi
cated by the arrow in Fig. 8 to the position shown
in Fig. 9. The folder template 304 is provided
with sight holes to view the necktie materials and
Fig. 6). The remaining pintles of the sprocket 10 supported by a block 306 and rollers 301 carried
chains 244 have outwardly extending projections
248 which carry rollers 250 supported in the slide
ways 252 of the crimper head 256. Several pairs
of the crimpers 240 are connected by coiled
springs 251 which clamp the outspread lining and
folded fabric positioned on the crimpers 210
against the latter during the descent of the
crimper head 256, as shown in Fig. 4, and hold
them in position while both sets of crimpers are
collapsed, as hereinafter described, to pleat the .
tie materials.
The crimpers 240 and the outermost crimper
241m are normally spread apart by a compression
spring 260 similar to the spring 226 and similarly
seated at one end in a socket 232a of crimper
by the shafts 302 (Fig. 6) . Block 306 is provided
with a lug connected by a link 308 to a cam lever
310 mounted on a fulcrum shaft 312 supported
in a bearing lug 314 of the frame pedestal 200.
Cam lever 310 has a cam roller 316 engaging thc
periphery of plate cam 318 fastened on shaft
282. A tension spring (Fig. 6) connected to lever
310 holds cam roller 316 against cam 318, and the
latter has the proper configuration to advance
the block 306 forwardly with the folder template
304 into the position shown in Fig. 9.
A table 320 supported by frame 322 has an
opening 324 provided with grooves in its lateral
sides wherein are slidably mountedthe tongues
of a strip 326 secured to the bottom of a folder
24041, and similarly passing through axial bores of
plate 328 resting on the table 320. The plate 328
the crimpers 240 and seated at its other end
may be equipped with gauge pieces 330 similar to
against the crimper head. Each of the crimpers
the members 31 shown in Figs. 4-6 of our co
240 is provided with a pin 236a extending through
pending application, S. N. 428,684, filed January
its axial bore and engaging adjacent coils of 30 ‘29, 1942, on which Patent No. 2,383,654 was
spring 260, whereby these crimpers are spread
granted, and similarly adjustable on the folder
plate 328. One longitudinal edge of the necktie
The crimper head 256 is provided with an in
fabric F is positioned against the pieces 330 and
tegral crimper 262 having a series of teeth
spread laterally, as shown in Fig. 8, over the
adapted to interengagewith the teeth of the sta- '
tionary crimper 228 and form a series of narrow
pleats in the leading end of an outspread lining
L positioned manually on crimper 228. The
crimper head 256 is also provided with an inte
plate 328 and the table 320 into a position over
lapping the lining L previously positioned on
crimpers 210.
The centrally arranged lug on strip 326 is con
nected by a link 340 to a cam lever 342 having a
gral crimper 264 spaced sufficiently from the 40 cam roller 344 held against the periphery of a
crimper 262 to permit manual insertion therebe
disk cam 346 mounted on shaft 282 by a tension
tween of the leading end of the necktie fabric F,
after the same has been superposed on the
lining L and folded transversely to lap its longi
tudinal edges on each other.
The crimper head 256 is provided with integral
arms 210 mounted on shafts 212 supported in
baering lugs 214 of the pedestal 200. One of the
arms is provided with a hooked extension -216
(Fig. 2) carrying a cam»roller 218, which is held
by a tension spring (Fig. 6) against the periphery
of a. cam 280 supported on a cam shaft 282
mounted in bearing lugs 284 (Fig. 6) of pedestal
spring connected to lever 342, whereby the folder
plate 328 is advanced to fold the outspread fabric
F over the edge 305 of the template 304, as shown
in Figs. 9 and 10. When the template 364 is ad
vanced it slides over the tips of the fingers 300
and is thereby lifted into the upwardly inclined
position shown in Fig. 8, until enough of its
weight is imposed upon fingers 300 to depress the
same sufficiently to permit the template to move
into the position shown in Fig. 9. After the tem~
plate 384 and the plate 328 are retracted the
crimper head 256 is lowered to cause the crimpers
200. The periphery of cam 280 has the proper
240, 262, 264, to clamp the lapped edges of the
shape to permit the crimper head to be lowered
fabric against the lining positioned on the crimp
into the position shown in Fig. 4 to thereby inter
ers 210, 210e and 228.
engage the crimpers 262 and 264 with the crimpers
A bracket 350 is provided with lugs 352 and
210 and 228, at the proper time following the fold
354 which are arranged to engage the outermost
ing of the fabric superposed upon the lining posi
crimpers 240a and 21011 while the crimper head
tioned upon the crimpers 2 I 0, 2 I 8a and 228. Then GO 256 is lowering the crimpers 240, 240a into the
the crimpers 210 and ZIGa'and 240 and 246e are
positions shown in Fig. 3 and thereby press the
simultaneously displaced longitudinally and lat
crimpers 240, 249a and 210, 210a together into the
erally into the positions shown in Fig. 3 when the
positions shown in Figs. 3 and 5 against the re
spacing thereof is decreased by mechanism here
sistance of the springs 226 and 260. While the
inafter described.
crimpers are being pressed together the pintle ex
Fingers 300 are pivotally mounted on stub
tensions 242 supporting crimpers 240, 240a are
shafts 302 supported by brackets fastened to the
moved downwardly and the pintle extensions 214
top of the pedestal 200 and are normally main
are moved upwardly to move the crimpers into
tained in a horizontal position by compression
engagement with each other.
springs 303 (Fig. 6) interposed between the
fingers 300 and pedestal 200. The vertical faces
of the free ends of fingers 300 serve as gauges
against which one longitudinal edge of the lining
L may be positioned when it is spread. upon the
crimpers 210, 21nd and 228, as shown in Fíg- ',7
Thus there are formed a series of transverse
pleats in the lining L and the lapped edges of the
fabric F superimposed thereon. For this pur
pose the bracket 350 is fastened to a rack bar 356
supported in bearings 358 of the pedestal 200 and
provided with rack teeth 360 on its bottom. A
gear segment 352 carried by a cam lever 363
mounted on a stub shaft 354 supported by pedes
tal 208 meshes with the rack teeth 388. Cam le
ver 353 carries a cam roller 365 engaging with a
cam track formed in a barrel cam 368 supported on
cam shaft 282, whereby the bracket 35D is oper
ated at the proper time to collapse the criinpers
and thereby pleat the fabric and lining.
A needle 380 is attached at its butt end to the
sprocketV chain 382 forwardly to advance the nee
dle through the pleated necktie parts, and then
engaged with other ñange of wheel 425 to drive
the sprocket chain 382 in the opposite direction.
to withdraw >the needle from the stitched neck
tie materials. On the shaft 454 supported in
bearings of frame 322 is loosely mounted the
driving member 455 of a one-revolution clutch.,
this member carrying a sprocket which is driven
upper run of a sprocket chain 382 running over
by a sprocket chain 458 from a sprocket on the
sprockets 384 and 385 mounted on shafts 388 and
39€)V supported in a bracket 392. The latter is
equipped with strips 451i and 482 respectively,
overlying and underlying the upper run of
engagement with a driven clutch member (not
sprocket chain 382, the bar 45B having a slot in`
its bottom wherein the needle 384 is guided as
it is advanced through the needle guide 454,
which may vbe formed on bracket 352, and
drive shaft of the gear reduction unit M.
The driving member 455 carries a connecting
member 465. which is movable axially thereof into
shown) which is fastened to the shaft 454. A
spring (not shown) urges the member 460 into
through the pleated necktie fabric and lining to
engagement with a recess in the driven clutch
member whereby the helical gear 412 fastened on
shaft 45.4 drives the helical gear 413 on the cam
tooth of crimper 228, and the adjoining crimper
groove of the connecting member 4.55, permitting
stitch the same together. The construction cf 20 shaft 282. The ratio of the helical gears 412 and
413 is 1 to 2, so that when the shaft 454 is turned
the bracket 382 and the mechanism for operating
one revolution, the shaft 282 is turned a half
and guiding the needle is similar to that shown
revolution. The member 458 has a transverse
in our above mentioned application.
groove which is aligned with a circumferential
The thread T is drawn from a spool S mounted
on a holder H and passed through a thread guide 25 groove in the member 455. A latch 482, which
.has a concave face engaging the base of said
G similar to guide 45 shown in Fig. 1 of said ap
groove and a wedge-shaped tip adapted to enter
plication and threaded through the eye of nee
the transverse groove in member 460, thereby
dle >38€'. The free end of the thread after being
withdraws the latter from engagement with the
removed from the eye of the needle may be
grasped by the operator after the point of the 30 driven clutch member. The latch 452 is ful
crumed on the pedestal 228 and is connected by a
needle is advanced through and beyond the
link 454 to an arm 455 fastened on a shaft 459r
crimpers 2 l 8a and 2450i. The operator then holds
supported in bearings of the frame 322. On the
the free end of the thread while the needle is
arm 46E is pivotally mounted a block 415 in which
retracted to initial position.
the lower end of the link 454 is slidably mounted,
, It will be noted that the pleats formed by the
the extreme lower end of link 4.54 being provided
crimpers 228 and 282 are somewhat smaller than
with a stop nut 411. The shaft 459 projects for
those produced by the crimpers 2|!) and 245,
wardly from the front of frame 322 and on its
whereby the stitches formed in the leading end of
projecting portion is mounted a pedal 485. When
the lining L will be shorter than those uniting
the lining and fabric. However, the pleat 40 the pedal 4B!! is depressed by the attendant, the
latch 452 is disengaged from the transverse
formed between the crimper 264, the adjoining
2 if) will be common to both the lining and fabric,
because both the lining and fabric are positioned
between the interengaged faces thereof. How
ever, since the face of the crimper 254 engaging
the outer face of the adjoining tooth of crimper
228 is narrower than the other face of crimper
254, the pleat so formed will be smaller than the
pleats formed by crimpers 213 and 240, and a '
single small stitch will be produced, uniting the
fabric and 'lining ahead of the following longer
stitches. As shown in Figs. 6 and 1l, the crimp
ers 2li) and 245 are provided with slots on their
interengaging faces through which the needle
passes, and the other crimpers are also provided
with similar slots for the same purpose.
On the shaft 388 is fastened a sprocket which
is driven by a sprocket chain 428 from a sprocket
422 mounted on shaft 424 (Fig. 2). Shaft 424 is
supported in frame 322 and carries a friction
wheel 426.
The wheel 425 is driven by a cone
pulley 421 supported by a shaft 428 carried by an
arrn 429.
The arm 429 is pivoted on a pedestal
the latter to engage and drive the driven clutch
member, whereby the shaft 454 will be rotated
one revolution until the latch 452 reengages in
the transverse groove of the connecting member
4523 and withdraws the latter from engagement
with the driven clutch member and thereby stops
the cam shaft 282 in the position shown in Fig. 3.
After the member 35S has been displaced in
wardly during the half revolution of shaft 252
just described, to contact the crimpers during
the interengagement thereof upon the outspread
lining and the fabric previously folded by the
coaction of plates 584 and 328, to pleat these
necktie parts, the latch 462 reengages the trans
verse groove of member 458 and withdraws the l
latter frein the driven clutch member and there
by stops the rctati'on of shaft 282 and maintains
the member
in its inward position. The
handle 434 is then displaced in one direction to
bring cone pulley 421 into engagement with wheel
425, to advance the needle through the pleated
necktie parts, until it projects beyond the crimp
ers 2Min and 248e. The free end of the thread
43s supported on the base of frame 322 and is
is held by the attendant while she swings the
connected by a link 432 passing through an aper
handle 434 in the opposite direction to engage
ture in the front of frame 322 to a handle 434
the pulley 421 with the ether flange of wheel 426
pivoted on a lug 435 provided on the front cf
and thereby retract the needle to initial position.
frame 322. The shaft 428 carries a pulley 448
which is driven by an endless belt 442 from a, '."L: The attendant then again steps on the pedal 485
and the shaft 2%2 is driven another half revolu
pulley on the drive shaft of the motor-driven
tion until the latch 462 reengages with the transgear reduction unit M, the belt being guided over
verse groove of member 465 and stops the rota'
idler pulleys 444. By swinging the handle 434,
tion of shaft 282, the crimper head 258 being thus
the cone pulley may be engaged with the interior
of one ñange of the wheel 425, to drive the 75 lifted and the pusher 350 returned to its outward
position to permit the pleating members to be
expanded by respective springs 22B-and 260. The
pleated fabric and lining are then spread out on
the thread T and the thread is then severedV and
its ends are knotted, the severed length of thread
being sufficient to provide a resilient slip stitch
uniting the lining and fabric. Upon removal of
the stitched necktie parts from the machine, they
are turned inside out to form the finished necktie.
which a lining may be positioned with its length
extending transversely thereof, and a folded
necktie fabric having its longitudinal edges
lapped upon each other may be positioned with
its lapped edges extending along -a longitudinal
axis of said lining, a series of spaced members
having triangular teeth adapted to be engaged
with the portions of said positioned necktie parts
extending between the teeth of said elements,
When the stitched lining and fabric are removed, 10 means for maintaining said elements and mem
a new lining and fabric may be positioned for
bers in spaced relation, means for moving said
folding of the fabric and stitching of the latter
to the lining in the manner just described.
It may be noted that the springs 251 serve to
members to engage said teeth of said members
with and thereby flex the portions of said necktie
parts intermediate said elements, and mechanism
prevent slippage of the portions of the fabric .. for moving said elements and members trans
and lining between the pleating members 2| 0 and
versely toward each other simultaneously with
240 as they interengage, which might occur if
the engagement of the teeth of said members
such springs were not provided. It may be pref
with said necktie parts, to decrease the spacing
erable to have the springs 251 more closely ar
cf said elements and members while the necktie
ranged upon the plating mmbers adjacent the 20 parts are being flexed by said members and ele
pusher 352.
ments and thereby pleat the lining and fabric for
What is claimed is:
stitching of the same together by a needle, an
1. In a machine for making neckties, a row of
spaced elements upon which a. lining may be
elongated needle adapted to be passed through
the pleats of the fabric and lining heldy between
positioned with its length extending transversely
25 said elements and members, and mechanism for
thereof, and a folded necktie fabric having its
longitudinal edges lapped upon each other may
operating said needle while the fabric and lining
are held in pleated condition by said crimpers
and elements for stitching the lining and fabric
be positioned with its lapped edges extending
along a longitudinal axis of said lining, a series
of spaced members adapted to be engaged with 30
4. In a machine for making neckties, a row of
the portions of said positioned necktie parts ex
spaced elements upon which a lining may be
tending between said elements, springs connected
positioned with its length extending transversely
to said elements and members and thereby main
thereof, and e, folded necktie fabric having its
taining them in spaced relation, means for mov
longitudinal edges lapped upon each other may
ing said members to engage said members with 35 be positioned with its lapped edges extending
and thereby flex the portions of said necktie parts
along a longitudinal axis of said lining, of yield
intermediate said elements, and mechanism for
ing devices for clamping the positioned fabric
moving said elements and members transversely
and lining against said elements, a series of
toward each other to decrease the spacing there
spaced members adapted to be engaged with the
of and thereby pleat the lining and fabric for 40 portions of said positioned necktie parts extend
stitching of the same together by a needle.
ing between said elements, means for moving said
2. In a sewing machine, the combination with
devices and members to engage said devices with
a set of spaced vertical crimper members having
said necktie parts to cause said devices to clamp
teeth on their upper ends, of a pair of primary 45 spaced portions thereof against said elements
sprocket chains each having pintles connected to
_and then engage said members with and thereby
each of said crimper members whereby said
ñex the portions of said necktie parts interme
members are supported on said primary chains
diate said elements, and mechanism for moving
for movement transversely toward and away
said elements and members transversely toward
from each other, means for expanding said pri 50 each other to decrease the spacing thereof and
mary chains to maintain said members in spaced
thereby pleat the lining and fabric for stitching
relationship, the upper ends of said members be
of the same together by a needle, said. devices be
ing aligned with each other and adapted to sup
ing supported by said members.
port an outspread necktie lining and a folded
' 5. In a, crimping device for necktie stitching
necktie fabric, a set of spaced vertical crimper 55 machines, the combination with opposed rows of
elements having teeth on their lower ends, a pair
equally spaced relatively movable crimper teeth,
of secondary sprocket chains each having pintles
the tips of the crimper teeth of one row being
connected to each of said elements whereby said
staggered with respect to those of the other row
elements are supported on said secondary chains
and suiiîciently spaced therefrom to admit there
for movement toward and away from each other, 60 between an outspread necktie fabric, and means
a head on which said secondary chains are sup
for simultaneously and uniformly decreasing the
ported, devices on said head for expanding said
secondary chains to maintain said elements in
spacing of the teeth of each of said rows to avoid
stretching of the necktie fabric as the teeth of
spaced relationship, said head being movable to
the opposite rows are brought together to crimp
interengage said elements with said members, 65 said fabric, said means including a linkage con
and means for simultaneously contracting said
necting the teeth in each one of said rows, mech
primary and secondary chains and thereby mov
anism for exerting pressure endwise of said rows
ing said elements and members transversely
on said linkages to collapse the same, and de
toward each other to decrease their spacing while
vices for moving the teeth of one row toward the
said members and elements are being interen 70 teeth in the other row during said collapsing op
gaged whereby said lining and fabric are pleated
for stitching of the same by an elongated needle.
3. In a machine for making neckties, a row of
spaced elements having triangular teeth upon
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