Патент USA US2409861код для вставки
Oct. 22',‘ 1946. R, A, HUEBEL ' 2,409,860 SHOEMAKING Filed Kay 18, 1945 , 2 sheetsfshe'et 1 R. A. HUEBEL 2,409,860 snomuumm Filed lay 1a; ‘1945 2' sheetsqsheet 2 Patented Oct. 22‘, 1946 2,409,860 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ‘ 2,409,860 ‘ - ‘ SHOEMAKING . > Richard ‘A. Huebel, Ahington; Mass. ' ' ApplicationiMay 18, 1945, Serial No". 594,381 1 4 Claims.‘ (01. 12;142) 2 This invention consists in a novel process of making platform shoes of high‘style with com fort features. The process of my invention re sults in the production‘of shoes having this un usual combination of characteristics: viz., the stylish lines of a shoe designed primarily for style and the cushion features of a shoe designed primarily for comfort. My invention includes within its scope the novel shoe construction here in shown as produced by my novel shoemaking 10 process. platform, suiiicient to support the toe joints of the wearer's foot. This makes the shoe comfort able by providinga cushion under the ball of the foot, while providing a solid foundation under the toe joints, thus relieving them ‘of the resilient pressure of the cushion. v Another important characteristic of my proc ess is that the ball end of the platform is solid and intact during the ‘steps of attaching, trim ming, and edge-setting the platform. It is only after these steps have been completed that the The platform type of shoe as usually construct ball edge of‘ the platform is severed and a seg ed, and if it is to have any ofthe lines charac ment removed. Itwill be seen that by this pro teristic of ?ne shoemaking, requires precision cedure the manufacturer has the bene?t of a work in the preparation of the platform; that is 15 solid sole-piece for the operations which might to say the platform must be cut accurately as a otherwise distort a skeleton sole-piece. After the stock-?tting operation 50 that it will conform to solid sole-piece has been permanently attached the contour of the last when placed on the bot and incorporated in the shoe bottom and after tom of the lasted shoe. There has been hereto thetrimining‘ and set operation the ball edge of fore no opportunity for trimming the platform 20 the ‘platform is severed, this being a stage of the on the shoe and if the platform is- not exactly process after‘which there is no tendency to dis the proper shape for the particular shoe in which tort the platform‘. ' it is incorporated or if the platform is not placed These and other features and characteristics with absolute accuracy, very objectionable de of my invention will be best understood and ap fects in shoemaking occur. Moreover, platform 25 preciated from the following description of a shoes as heretofore manufactured have necessi tated the operation of covering the platform with a binding strip. This operation is one not here preferred manner of practicing the process of my‘ invention asillustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which: tofore known in manufacturing shoes of stand Fig’. 1‘ is a View in perspective of the platform ard types and so has been somewhat troublesome 30 blank at the conclusion of the cementing and on that account. The process of my invention is characterized by the employment of a platform which may be se cured to the bottom of a lasted shoe and ‘then trimmed and edge-set in the same manner that a solid sole is treated in the standard processes of shoemaking, that is to say, the platform is trimmed in exact conformity to the contour of randing operations; Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the window de?ned therein; ' Fig, 3 is a view in perspective showing the plat form attached. to the fore-part of a shoe and suggesting the trimming operation; Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view suggesting the edge-setting operation; the fore part of the particular shoe in which it 5 is a view‘ in perspective of the fore-part is incorporated and then the trimmed edge 40 of Fig. a shoe suggesting the step of removing the stained, set, and otherwise ?nished with the ma portion vforming the window from the platform; chinery and in‘ accordance with thefamiliar prac tice of standard shoemaking. Having attached, Figlf?; is a similar view,‘ showing the window removed; . ‘ p ‘ ’ trimmed and ?nished the platform as above ex Figl '11s a similar view showing the‘ cushion in plained, ‘I next remove from it a portion to form 45 place; and , a window of substantial area and in this step I Fig; 8 is a fragmentary view in longitudinal remove also a segment of the ball edge of the section of the fore-Dart of the shoe. 7 ' platform which has been‘hitherto intact. The window thus provided and the space in‘the ball In- carrying out the process of my invention, a platform blank is died or rounded out from any edge of the platform is now ?lled by a cushion 50 suitable sole material, such as leather, neolite, padiwhich extends‘ over the break at the‘ ball of 'Vin‘ylite? or other _ material capable of being the shoe and somewhat into the shank. v important feature of my invention consists in a window so shaped in the platform as to pro trimmed and. edge ?nished, The’ platform blank may‘ be ‘3' to 8 irons inf thickness according to the thickness of the platform desired in the ?n Vicle a land- or solid area at the toe end of the 65 ish'e‘d‘sh‘oe.‘ 'I‘hé‘oPeration of preparing the plat 4. 3 wearer’s toes and prevents them from being pressed upwardly against the toe box by the re siliency of the pad. form blank is similar to the operation of prepar ing a leather sole or a tap sole. The platform blank is then subjected to the well-known stock ?tting operations of skiving the ball or shank edge, and is then roughed on both faces. In Fig: l the skived ball edge of the platform blank is indicated by reference character H. The cushion element of the shoe is now sup— plied by cementing a sheet 22 of sponge rubber or other resilient cushion material to the platform in position to cover the opening formed by the re moval of the window l5 and to extend rearwardly A marginal band [2' of cement is then applied ' into the curved portionof. the shank of the shoe. to bothqsurfaces of the blankand when this is shoeis completed by cementing er other dried the blank is randed about its, curved mar 10 The wise incorporating an outsole 23 in ‘the shoe bot gin thus removing the cement in a narrow zone tom, this being cemented to the face of the plat adjacent to the edge and preparing the edge [3 p U form and to the land it in the manner usually of the platform for edge trimming. practiced in making cemented or Compo shoes. The next step of the process consists in par- I In this ?nal operation, the cushion 22 is forced 15, tially outlining a window 15 in the body?of the the opening formed by the window I5. platform while leaving its skived ball edge intact. I into I, have found it particularly important to ex; This may be done by cutting or dieing out the tend the cushion 22 over the ball line of the shoe and somewhat into the. shank. This not only provides a comfortable cushion where it is appre ciated by the wearer but improves the general line M shown in Fig. 2 either by hand or by locat- - . ing the blank under a. die of the appropriate" shape. The cut or died-out line l4 terminates short of the ball edgeof the platform'and in the lines of the shank'fi‘om the standpoint of style. In general it may be observed that the process herein described involves the usualand conven tional stock-?tting operations upon a flat blank of solid leather or the like, the trimming and edge setting of a substantially solid sole-piece in the fore part of the platform leaves anv extensive land orsrolid portion In, this‘being s'u?icient in extent to support the toe joints of the foot of the wearer as suggested in Fig. 8. ‘ The platform is shown in Fig, 2 in this condition; that is to say the stock-?tting operations have been completed shoe bottom, and then the removal of ‘the inte-' upon it and it is ready to be incorporated in the shoe bottom. ‘ 4' ‘ rior of the platform for the accommodation-of vthe cushion only after the platform has been per v ' The next'step of the process consists in attach manently and securely incorporated in the shoe ing the platform blank to‘ the-bottom of a lasted shoe, as suggested by Fig. 3 in which the plat form" is shown as cemented'to the fore part of bottom so that it is no longer subject to strains which might otherwise distort it. ‘ the shoelit with its'skived ball edge conformed tothe longitudinal curvature of the shank of the _ ‘scribed a preferred manner of practicing it, -I Having thus disclosed my invention and de claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Pat shoe. The platform may be attached by cement ing or by stitching but, as herein shown, the at taching operation may be convenientlycarried ent: > - I > 1. The shoemaking process which includes the steps of cutting out a platform blank to ?t ‘the fore-part of a shoe, de?ning a? ‘window in the blank while leaving its shank edge intact, attach ing the blankto the bottom of a lasted shoe, trim: ~ming and setting» the edge of the platform in con formity to the contour of the ‘shoe, removing the de?ned portion from the platform-to form a win out by merely dampening the'cementing band 12‘ on ‘the lower side of the platform and‘then ‘subjecting it to pressure in a sole-laying machine of the usual type. As soon as the platform has ‘been attached and the cement set,_ the platform ‘may be'edge-trimmed in the usual manner as by ,a rotary cutter ll, shown in Fig. 3. It will be ’dow and at the same time removing a segment of its ball edge, and then cementing" a cushion ‘understood that‘ the‘ edge-trimming operation conforms the outline of the sole exactly to the over the window, ?lling the space thus provided contour of the shoe to which it is attached and imparts the desired edge contour to the'iplat- _. in its ball edge. > _ 2. The shoemaking process whicheincludes the steps of cutting out a platform blanktd?t‘the form, in this case a convex curvature. The edge 'of' the platform may be now stained or colored in any manner'desired by the manufacturerand edge set, for example, by an oscillatingheated ‘fore-part of a shoe, attaching the blankfin sub stantially solid condition to the bottom of a lasted shoe, trimming and settingthe edge of the'rplat ‘edge setting iron 18, as suggested ‘in Fig. 4. These steps are all carried ‘out on the platform 55 ‘form in conformity to the‘ contour'of the shoe, removing a portion from the platform’ to form a while in substantially solid condition‘; that is to window therein, leaving a solid, land between‘ the say, the window [5 is outlined in' the platform but sides of the platform in advance of the‘tip line, has not been removed, while the ball edge por placing a cushion in the opening left by the re-, tion on the platform'rem'ains intact. moval of the window and covering the ‘cushion The next “step in the process consists in remov- ‘ and said last by anoutsole." ing the portion‘ to‘ form the window l5, this step being suggested iii-Fig.5 where" a‘ knife 19 is shown as being employed to extend the lines of 'the cut l4 through‘ the ball edge‘ of the platform .. ‘and for prying the severed portion‘l5 out of ; steps of cutting out a platformblank for the fore l (35 ‘the shoe bottom. ‘Fig. 6 shows the window as completely formed, exposing within its contour 'the'lasted edge of the upper and the insole 20 on the forward end ‘of ‘the shank stiffener Zlj. , It 'willbe noted that the "land in constitutes an integral‘ tie between ‘the 'sides'of the platform throughout the area of its toe portion, while the ‘ \3. The shoemaking'process which includes the part of a shoe, applying marginalbands of ce ment to both faces of the ‘blank; de?ning ,‘a'por tion to form a window in the blank attached at its rear edge to the ball portionof ‘the blank,ce menting the blank to‘the bottom of a lasted'sho'e, ‘subsequently cutting out a segment from the ball portion of the blank and removing the de?ned ‘portion to form‘said window, substituting cush ion material for' the‘ portions of the ‘platform which have been removed, and covering the plate . form and cushion material with an outsole. 4. The shoemakin‘g process which includes the ‘it also presents a 'solid support‘ beneath the 75 now severed rear ends of the platform conform ‘accurately to the curve of the‘shank. The'land 5 2,409,860 steps Of securing to the bottom of a lasted shoe a platform blank of sole leather having a window outlined therein by cuts de?ning the side edges of the window while leaving the blank intact 6 to form a window from the platform and at the same time cutting through the rear edge of the platform blank, and then ?lling the window and the space in the rear edge of the platform blank across its rear edge, trimming the edge of the platform blank in conformity to the contour of 5 with cushioning material. the shoe bottom, removing the de?ned portion RICHARD A. HUEBEL.