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Dec. 10, 1946. B. F. LEE 2,412,521 SHOEMAKING Filed Feb. 7, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet l Dec. 10, 1946. B. F. LEE 2,412,521 SHOEMAKING Filed Feb. 7, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec. 10, 1946 2,412,521 ' UNITED ‘STATES "PATENT OFFICE SHOEMAKIN G ~ Bernard F. Lee, Framingham, Mass.,- assignor to Jacob Sandler, Brookline, Mass.. Application February 7, 1946, Serial No. 646,022 3 Claims. (Cl. 12—142) The present invention relates to shoemaking and in particular to a novel process of making moccasin'type shoes. ' Moccasins offer many advantages, particularly for young people since they are ?exible, soft in all areas of contact, and easy to put on and take off. However, the method heretofore practiced for making moccasins has been exceedingly cost 2 formed along the margin of the vamp spaced in wardly from the periphery of the bevelled edge l8. The thread holes l9 are spaced at uniform intervals and extend from the throat of the vamp forwardly around the tip. The rounded heel piece is similarly bevelled as shown at 40 and its margin is similarly pierced at uniform intervals to form a row of thread holes 42. ly and drawn out, with the result that shoe manu facturers have not been particularly attracted to the manufacture of moccasin type shoes, since they must be made to sell comparatively cheaply. The present invention has for its primary ob ject to simplify and cheapen the manufacturing Upon the com pletion of the bevelling and perforating steps, the edges of the cut‘ l6 are brought together by a zig-zag seam (not shown). The drawing togeth er of the edges of the cut l6 gives the proper contour to the shank portion of the shoe. Sub sequently the rear edges of the quarters M are process as well as to produce a better moccasin 15 united by a butt seam or back seam 38 as sug than has heretofore been available. gested in Fig. 4. ' I have discovered that it is possible to cut out I also provide a forepart plug 20, shown in Fig. and pre-?t the portions or members-which go 2. The plug 20 is bevelled along its edge as to form a moccasin type shoe so that they may shown at 22 and provided with a row of thread be assembled on a last and simultaneously united 20 holes 24 which preferably pierce the full thick and lasted. In one aspect my invention consists ness of the plug blank just back of the bevel edge in an improvement to the process disclosed in my 22. The interval between the thread holes 24 is prior Patent No. 2,381,356. The concept of si uniform and smaller than the interval between multaneously lasting the members of the upper the thread holes [9 along the edge of the vamp and uniting them represents a radical departure l2. The dimensions and contours of the plug 20 from the processes known in the art and not only and the vamp portion l2 are such that when they oifers decided reduction in the cost of manufac are properly positioned upon a last the periph ture of moccasion type shoes, but also results in eries of the bevelled edges barely meet. This re a greatly improved product. sults in a substantial space between the opposed The objects and features of my invention will 30 rows of thread holes l9 and 26. be more readily understood and appreciated from A backstay 44 is secured to the rear end of the following detailed description of a preferred the blank I 0 by a line of stitching 46 which leaves manner of carrying out the process, selected for the lower portion of the backstay unsecured as purposes of illustration and shown in the accom illustrated in Fig. 4. The lower edge of the back panying drawings, in which: 85 stay 44 is bevelled and provided with uniformly Fig. 1 is a plan view of a composite blank pre spaced thread holes 48. Here again the distance pared for assembly and including the major por between the thread holes 48 is shorter than the tion of the upper of the shoe, Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the forepart plug, ' Fig. 3 is a view in perspective showing one step in the manufacture of a moccasin, and Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view in perspective of the rear end of a moccasin illustrating the treat ment of the backstay. In practicing the process of my invention as distance between the, thread holes 42 in the heel piece of the blank [0. The backstay 44 overlies 40 the back seam 38. After the members have been thus prepared and dimensioned they are assembled upon a last 25 and temporarily tacked in position. The precise location of the tacks is not critical, but 45 I have found it convenient to secure the vamp to the last by a single tack 26 driven through one of the thread holes [9 at the tip. A tack of upper material having the shape illustrated in 30 is driven at the side through an intermediate Fig. l. The composite blank l0 includes a vamp thread hole, and a tack 32 is driven through the or forepart portion l2, opposed quarters I B, and 50 rearmost thread hole 24‘ of the plug 20 on the a rounded heel piece. These portions surround same side of the last as the intermediate tack 30. a sole-shaped area the shank portion of which is The track 32 passes also through the rearmost apertured as shown in, It. While the blank is thread hole I9 in the vamp I2. It is only at this herein shown I ?rst provide a composite blank ?at, the edge of the vamp portion I2 is bevelled throat location that a single tack passes through The tip of the as shown at 18, and a row of thread holes is 55 both the plug and the vamp. 2,412,621 plug is also secured to the last by a pair of tacks 28 passing through thread holes 24. when the members have thus been temporarily secured to the last 25, I pass a thread 34, having at each end needles 35 and 38, through the rearmost thread holes of the vamp and plug at the'side opposite the tack 32. By passing the needles Having thus disclosed my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: 1. In a method of making moccasins, the steps comprising providing a first blank having a sole portion and a portion adapted to form an up wardly projecting portion of the upper, which latter portion is provided with a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes extending along the through the thread holes and looping the thread after each pass, I form a lockstitch uniting the vamp and‘the plug. After each stitch is formed, 10 bevelled edge and passing through the full thick ness of the blank; providing a second blank it is tightened to draw the edges of the vamp dimensioned to complement said latter portion and plug together and pull these pieces tightly in forming the upper, said second blank having over the last 25. When the sewing operation is a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes ex first begun, the tightening of the stitches is re sisted by all of the tacks described. The result 15 tending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness of the blank; placing is that the material of the vamp and plug the blanks upon a last 'of such size and shape. stretches and conforms closely to the contour of that the edge extremities of the blanks barely the last 25. As the seam progresses from its origin forwardly to the tip, the tacks 28 and 26 meet; and uniting the margins of the blanks by are removed to make way for the seam. The 20 passing thread through said thread holes and tightening of the stitches is then resisted by the tightening the stitches to conform the blanks tacks 30 and 32 and also by that portion of the closely to the last. seam already formed. The result is that the 2. In a method of making moccasins, the steps lasting action is continued. Similarly the tack comprising providing a blank having a sole por 30 is removed when the seam reaches that point, 25 tion and a portion adapted to form an upwardly - and the lasting effect is then carried out against projecting vamp portion of the moccasin, which the tack 32 and the portion of the seam already 'vamp portion is provided with a bevelled edge completed. The ?nal step is to remove the tack and a series of thread holes extending along the 32 and complete the seam. It will thus be seen bevelled edge and passing through the full thick that the vamp and plug are united simultaneously ness of the blank; providing a forepart plug hav with the lasting of the shoe. The uniform spac ing of the thread always produces a fine, straight, uniform seam much superior to that obtained in ' the ordinary hand sewing operation in which the thread holes are formed progressively with ing a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes extending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness thereof; placing the blank and plug on a last of such size and shape that the edge extremities of the blank and plug barely meet; and uniting the margins of the When the forepart of the moccasin has been blank and plug by passing- thread through said completed in the manner above described, a simi thread holes and progressively tightening the lar operation is carried out at the rear end of stitches to conform the upper parts closely to the shoe as suggested in Fig. 4. The backstay 40 the last. and heel piece are also so dimensioned that their 3. In a method of making moccasins, the steps edge extremities barely meet when the shoe is comprising providing a blank having a sole por assembled on the last. By passing a thread 50 tion and a portion adapted to form an upwardly provided with needles 5| and 52 through the projecting vamp portion of the moccasin, which 45 thread holes 42 and 48 the backstay and heel. vamp portion is provided with a bevelled edge and piece are united. The tightening of the stitches a series of uniformly spaced thread holes extend draws the backstay and heel piece together and ing along the bevelled edge and passing through effectively lasts the heel pocket. Here again the the full thickness of the blank; providing a fore seam is more uniform than it is possible to pro part plug having a bevelled edge and a series of . duce by ordinary hand sewing methods. thread holes extending along the bevelled edge The moccasin produced as the result of the and passing through the full thickness of the steps described may be removed from the last plug, the holes in the plug being uniformly spaced and a sole attached by any conventional method. but closer together than the thread holes of the It should be pointed out that the time in the vamp portion; placing the blank and plug on a process at which the sole is attached is not criti last of such size and shape that the edge ex cal. tremities of the blank and plug barely meet; and Those skilled in the art‘will appreciate that uniting the margins of the blank and plug by there are many possible variations and modi?ca passing thread through said thread holes and tions of the process herein described, and refer progressively tightening the stitches to conform ence to the appended claims should be made the upper parts closely to the last. a hand awl. , for a measure of the scope of my invention. . BERNARD F. LEE.