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Патент USA US2412865

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Dec. 17, 1946.
Filed Feb. 20, 1946
FIG. ‘2.
Patented Dec. 17,1946
"'- TPY "
James R. Brady, St. Louis, and Abram Moskowitz,
University City, 'Mo., assignors; to Milius Shoe
Company, St. Louis, vMo., a corporation of
‘Application February 20, 1946, SerialFNo. 648,879
‘7 Claims. (01. 367-195)
This invention relates to shoes and methods of
assembly. for an open'toe, open heel type of
‘manufacturing the same,.and has special refer
women’s shoe;
ence to improvements in the so-called slip-lasted
‘type of shoe. This type, as is well understood, is
chie?y distinguished by the manner in which the
parts are assembled and secured together which
Fig. 4 is a bottom plan view showing the parts
illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3 after they have been
stitched together;
The de
and heel tabs attached thereto;
Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view of the as
sembly of Fig. 4 as taken at line 5—5 ofthat
scribed method eliminates the need for skillful
‘hand lasting treatment or complicated lasting
machines. The method also affords manufactur
Fig. 3 is a plan view of a sock liner having toe
preformed body to facilitate the securement
ing/economies in other respects.
the same upper assembly;
‘involves stitching a sock‘ lining member. to an
upper-and thereafter inserting a last into. this
thereto‘ to one or more sole members.
Fig. 2 isa plan view showing the under side, of
Fig. 6 is a bottom view showing the assembly
of Fig. 5 following a subsequent operation where-v
> t The principal object of the present invention 15 in the lining ply of the upper is marginally
is to construct a shoe in general accordance with
the prescribed slip-lasting method but with cer
tain improvements therein that enhance‘ "the
stitched to the outer ply of the upper;
- ‘ '
bly following insertion therein of a last, the'in
comfort, appearance, and wearing quality of the
Fig. 7 is a bottom view illustrating the assem-;
corporation of an insole, and the securement
20 thereto of the upper plies;
An important object of the present invention
Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view taken at
is to construct a shoe of this charactenwherein
line 3-8 of Fig. 7 showing the structure with
the outsole applied;
Fig. 9 is a plan view of a sock liner of modi?ed
the inner sole members and stitching at the sole
line are concealed. Although this, of itself, is not
a new concept in slip-lasted‘ constructions, all
‘form, and
former methods have incidental disadvantages,
Fig. 10 is va transverse sectional view similar to
not the least‘ of which is the creation of wrinkles
in the linings of the shoes. It is the purpose of
this invention to provide an improved and more
that of‘ Fig. 5, and showing an upper assembly of
modi?ed form as combined with the sock liner of
Fig. 9.
efficient construction that eliminates such ob
_ Another objection to such former constructions
Referring now by numerals of reference to the
drawing, the upper assembly illustrated in Figs. 1
and 2 includes an outer ply i0 and a lining ply I I,
"is'that the outer ply of the upper that serves to
these parts being ' cut to suitable patterns and
hide the sole line stitches requires special and w
sewed together along the margins of the throat
skilled manipulation to conform it to a last, akin
‘opening as indicated by the lines of stitching l2,
to that required in connection with hand and ma
and along edges which de?ne openings in the
chine lasted shoes. The objection is avoided in
upper, such as by stitching l3 and I4 at the mar-’
the presently described construction by produc
gins of the heel and toe openings. As appears in
ving an upper assembly which is completely fash
Figs. '2 the lining ply is provided with trace marks
ioned prior to the introduction therein of the last, 40 It to indicate lineswhere the said lining ply,
and whereby the outer ply conforms itself to the
later in the process, is to be stitched to the sock
shape of the inserted last so that little or no ef
‘liner Hi. The lining ply H extends beyond the
fort, skill or experience is required by the shoe
‘trace marks to provide a substantial marginal al
maker in the operation of turning in and securing
lowance, this bordering strip being desirably made
the lasting allowance. Accordingly, the ‘funda
one-quarter of an inch or greater in width for
mental advantages of the slip-lasted process
purposes which will hereinafter appear. In this
which heretofore were only partly attained in
‘respect the present construction differs from the
“hidden stitching” constructions are ‘fully real
customary construction, wherein the upper lin
ized by the improved method of the present
ings terminate approximately at the sock lining
50 or sole level. The outer ply I 0 also is extended to
These and other objects and advantages will
provide a bordering strip for lasting purposes,
be more fully explained in the description that
and such bordering strip preferably projects a
follows, reference being made to the accompany
short distance beyond the lower extremity of the
ing drawing in which:
' ‘ Fig. 1 is a top plan view of a pre-formed upper
lining ply, as shown.
The sock liner I6, of textile ‘fabric, or thin plia
It is in connection with the last recited oper
ation of pulling, turning under and securing the
marginal extensions of the plies to the sole struc
ture that the value of the earlier operation of
uniting the marginal extensions of outer and
lining ' plies is’. particularly manifest, Thus,
when» drawing and turning under the marginal
extensions su?icient tension is exerted thereon
ble leather or the like, is cut approximately to the
conventional insole pattern for which the shoe is
intended, with suf?cient marginal allowance for
stitching, and to the toe and heel portions of the
liner I6 is attached a tab l1 and a rand l8 by
means oi'stitching ~|9""'and 2!)i respectively. As
will be understood, 'thevparts l1 and i8 serve-to
cover and give a ?nished appearance to edges of
the sock liner and any other inner sole at such
‘its cause both plies to hug the surface of the
points where these edges WQuldotherwise be. ex»; 1.0 last. Sincethe extensions are united, they may
posed by reason of openings 'in‘the upper, ‘asset. ‘beg'manipulated as a unit in a simple manner
and the tensioning force is imparted ‘with like
e?e'ct tobo'thpplies.v This is conducive to the
avoidance ofI-Wrinkles and distortion in the lining
lplyiwhich otherwise results when the outer ply
the heel and toe in the present example.
The sock liner is attachedtosthejlininglply:lli»
of the upper by stitches 2i whichiizollow ~‘tllel'tracie;
marks [5 on the lining ply. r*I’he "stitches 2‘! do
is manipulated ‘individually as is the case in
not engage or pass through the outer ply l0.
former,preposedgconstructions. Itwill be under
stood What irregularities in the lining ply caused
Thereafter the lining ply istsecllredrto thebuter
ply by means of cement applied between .andto
by~=~unequal tensioning vare not observable until
that extend along the lower edge of the lining 20 the last is removed, and then it is too late to
the adjacent surfaces, or by a row of stitches-22"
ply,_-‘o‘r,. both by "cementingand stitching. '
1 :Imsucceedingoperationsiconiicriticnal.mstliq?
Allof the foregoing steps are lperiormedoif
the-last and involve. simple- cutting, "stitching: and
may vbef employed .to ~ complete; the
operations. may. include. the provision
process‘ (Fig. ,6) ‘the disposition ora'rrangement 25 material->25 :between the turnedrunder marginal
cementing operations.‘ TAtlthiswstage of the
extensions: oi the upper. to produce, a . ?at. sure
of the outer plyvfrelativestoithe lining. ply and
the-isockllineris ?xed sincerthe plies are .secured
together, both at their top and .bottom,.margins.
secured~ in. place.- in.- accerdance with ' customary
Accordingly it may be said that 'theuppen as
sion. secured to the ‘sole ‘structure ‘ independently
member however. are increased. is; provide the
faceeto receive, the outsole 16. which is; adhesively
thev het?wfore
sembly is completelyvfashioned ‘prior to the in 30 ,Althollgh' less; desirable;
described methodthe same-advantageous, results
troduction therein of. the last. The present
mar'be obtainedbyva somewhat modi?edmer
method thus distinguishes from former methods
thod; the. essential features ofzwhich are; illus;
‘wherein the lowermmargi'n ‘of the outer ply. is
trated in Figs. sand-.19; .In: thiszmcdi?siwn
left :_free, until after-theJast-has been inserted;
struction the lining ply l;l-_ct;=ter_r;ninate_s atjnthe
In such case the. outer. ply is required to be
sock .liner- Him The. dimensionsof; the-latter
'“molded” to,’ the (‘last and: its vmarginal exten
marginalyex-tension i612,‘ Tracemarks-ISIa out}
oil the lining .p1y,'which requires careful and
painstaking manipulation. by a highly. skilled
lining the bender. (of.- thesocls. liner premiere
‘Continuing now. with .the: description of the
method'ofthepresent invention, a last 23 is
provided, and the lower edges of the liningply
‘I .laiarei sewed. ‘to. this; seek. ' liner: by» st'i?ihiiig
2msaiongithe.said watermarks Thereafter ‘the
method is carried: out. ‘in: :eecerdance with the
methcdrpreviouslr. described, the on1y¢di?erence
inserted in the pre-formed assembly-of Fig. 6,
and the bottom or. exposed-surface.oi-thegsock
liner is given a coating of adhesive, adhesive 45 .betwee f ‘ .,
lows ~.-'f01'{ the in; V-QlyulSV furnished by an_ in;
being also, appliedato the. imier, surfaces of the
tegra . xtensionioi‘ he sockliner“ instead oi‘ an
marginal. extensions, of the upper and. to that
extension; of J the lining _~.-ply; of the-_ upper. ,
of theSheeLand toe-tabs i'lsand l8; Ifitheshoe
Whereas in the constructions illustrated, herein
is to be provided with an insole or platform
such member, indicated bylnumeral 24, is posi 50 the entire. lasting. margins: are Shown to ‘have
marginal extensions for the purposes explained,
tionedon andvsecurecl vto the exposed: surface
'bequnderstqod that these, lprovisiensamay
of- the sock-liner. vOnly asimple hand or Ina,
' ed and the methodsbf the presentin
Chil'lGyODQIi?diiQIl is, now necessary to“ wrap, or
pplisdto portions qnlyi 0f; the lasting
'pullftl'ie marginal extensions“ of ‘the; upper:; and
the;»"0abs .zil : and is- about. ‘the edge of the. insole. . 5.5
ammain-mstyss Qfslh'Qe
atiormiis; prqvidsdiiniilihe
is .not essential and may be - omitted, as where
..~ . - .
lasting; .
en 'inrestieninxcenesctioiirwi?h ‘the
- ... ..-...and-»hee1.lpontionslvonlrkoliein
an; extremely i light, hishlrfiexibls. sols: Sims.
the. iregionsawherei 8» ;§i' 16. ‘ 1118.016 .land- 801.8
and .to- adhesively..- secure, them» to; the .bottqm
surface..‘thereof,v in the: mailer illustrated
Fig.s.~'l and 8».
.forepartrand arwncealedinsqle:Or.-the..equiYa1ent
i?upmvidgd maths; shank. and. heel parts In
erbe..:dssirable.~to ussihemethods
Although the (provisiongtaainsels -i.n~;~ths
described zcvnstruction.isdesirahleqsuch. member
line.istitchinssarewcalleisfmi,andtwmnlcy the
ture is wanted, When. omiitedtha-mergiml .16?“
tensions ,of the upper are ; secured f directly
bottom surface. of; the sock-liner,”
desired to. mention. ‘n:thi.$.:¢9¥1:n¢<.=§.i°n' thiilrcelf
tam. types of‘ $.11.Q€§.. are. constricted; with; an
insoleor platform that extendszvnlyr in.at1..1¢;f9¥¢
cenrentipnal;slipslastina resthesain: connection
_ ' 1-, lnvasshoa
upper hevinssarieoilier plysand
.a-;.linirig_;ply; mean
‘g 'vtogetheryithe; lower
. lies asosk-a-liner hav
part, and apiece» of ?bre-or; the like is.<r>rovided
.in, theheel and shankiareas .of-gthe ;so1e;._struc_ 7.0 ing its marginal portion stitched only tothe-lin
d inwardly
ture,_. as, for; bracing purpqsss. shanksf
ing-members ‘ 0i this; charaqtewpcupyp ,
“in. the.’ so1e-~.structure correspond g to: ha
an insole, which term is_,~h
edge of said member and being secured to the
bottom thereof, and an outsole secured to the
bottom of said member.
2. In a shoe, an upper having an outer ply and
a lining ply, a sock liner having its marginal por
tion stitched only to the lining plv of said upper,
an insole positioned beneath said sock liner, the
marginal portions of said outer and lining plies
extending about the edge of said insole and being
stitched together below said insole and secured
to the bottom surface thereof, and an outsole se~
cured to the bottom surface of said insole.
3. In a shoe, an upper having an outer ply and
a lining ply, a sock liner stitched at its marginal
portion to the lining ply only of said upper, said
outer and lining plies having marginal portions
extending beyond said sock liner stitching and
being stitched together near their lower edges
and lining plies, each provided with an extended
lower marginal portion, stitching a sock liner to
the upper lining ply only, such that the extended
marginal portion of the lining ply projects beyond
said stitching, securing together the marginal
extensions of said upper plies at points spaced
beyond said stitching, inserting a last into the
described assembly, drawing, turning under and
securing said marginal extensions beneath the
sole liner, and adhesively securing an outsole to
the turned under marginal extension of said outer
6. In a method of making shoes, the steps in—
cluding producing an upper having an outer ply
and a lining ply each formed to provide an ex
tended lower marginal portion, stitching a sock
liner to the lining ply only, such that said mar
ginal extensions project beyond said stitching, se
along lines spaced from said sock liner stitching,
curing together the said marginal extensions, in
an insole adhesively secured to said sock liner, 20 serting a last into the foregoing assembly, se
the extended marginal portion of said lining ply , curing an insole to the sock liner, drawing, turn
being adhesively secured to the bottom surface of
ing under and securing said marginal extensions
said insole, the stitching which secures together
to the bottom surface of said insole and securing
the margins of said plies being spaced inwardly
an outsole of said insole.
from the edge of said sock liner, and an outer 25
'7. The herein described method of shoe manu
sole secured to said insole.
facture which includes the steps of constructing
4. In a method of making shoes, the steps
an upper having an outer ply and a lining ply
which include producing an upper to have an
each formed to provide marginal portions that
outer ply and a liner, stitching a sock liner to the
extend beyond the normal sole line, stitching a
upper liner only such that a marginal portion of 30 sock liner to the lining ply only, such that the
one of said liners projects beyond said stitching,
said marginal extension of said ply projects be
securing said projecting marginal portion to the
yond said stitching, stitching together the lower
upper outer ply at points spaced beyond said
edges of the marginal extensions of said plies,
stitching, inserting a last into the described as
inserting a last into the foregoing assembly, ad
sembly, turning under the projecting marginal
hesively securing an insole to said sock liner,
portion of said one liner and the associated por
drawing the lasting allowance portions of said
tion of the outer ply and securing the same be
upper plies about the edges of. said insole and
neath the sole liner, and adhesively securing an
adhesively securing the same to the bottom sur- ‘
outsole to the turned under portion of said outer
face thereof, and thereafter securing an outsole
40 to said insole.
5. In a method of making shoes, the steps
which include providing an upper to have outer
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