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Dec. 10, 1946.
B. F. LEE
2,412,521
SHOEMAKING
Filed Feb. 7, 1946
2 Sheets-Sheet l
Dec. 10, 1946.
B. F. LEE
2,412,521
SHOEMAKING
Filed Feb. 7, 1946
2 Sheets-Sheet 2
Patented Dec. 10, 1946
2,412,521 '
UNITED ‘STATES "PATENT OFFICE
SHOEMAKIN G ~
Bernard F. Lee, Framingham, Mass.,- assignor to
Jacob Sandler, Brookline, Mass..
Application February 7, 1946, Serial No. 646,022
3 Claims.
(Cl. 12—142)
The present invention relates to shoemaking
and in particular to a novel process of making
moccasin'type shoes.
'
Moccasins offer many advantages, particularly
for young people since they are ?exible, soft in
all areas of contact, and easy to put on and take
off. However, the method heretofore practiced
for making moccasins has been exceedingly cost
2
formed along the margin of the vamp spaced in
wardly from the periphery of the bevelled edge
l8. The thread holes l9 are spaced at uniform
intervals and extend from the throat of the vamp
forwardly around the tip. The rounded heel
piece is similarly bevelled as shown at 40 and its
margin is similarly pierced at uniform intervals
to form a row of thread holes 42.
ly and drawn out, with the result that shoe manu
facturers have not been particularly attracted to
the manufacture of moccasin type shoes, since
they must be made to sell comparatively cheaply.
The present invention has for its primary ob
ject to simplify and cheapen the manufacturing
Upon the com
pletion of the bevelling and perforating steps, the
edges of the cut‘ l6 are brought together by a
zig-zag seam (not shown). The drawing togeth
er of the edges of the cut l6 gives the proper
contour to the shank portion of the shoe. Sub
sequently the rear edges of the quarters M are
process as well as to produce a better moccasin 15 united by a butt seam or back seam 38 as sug
than has heretofore been available.
gested in Fig. 4.
'
I have discovered that it is possible to cut out
I also provide a forepart plug 20, shown in Fig.
and pre-?t the portions or members-which go
2. The plug 20 is bevelled along its edge as
to form a moccasin type shoe so that they may
shown at 22 and provided with a row of thread
be assembled on a last and simultaneously united 20 holes 24 which preferably pierce the full thick
and lasted. In one aspect my invention consists
ness of the plug blank just back of the bevel edge
in an improvement to the process disclosed in my
22. The interval between the thread holes 24 is
prior Patent No. 2,381,356. The concept of si
uniform and smaller than the interval between
multaneously lasting the members of the upper
the thread holes [9 along the edge of the vamp
and uniting them represents a radical departure
l2. The dimensions and contours of the plug 20
from the processes known in the art and not only
and the vamp portion l2 are such that when they
oifers decided reduction in the cost of manufac
are properly positioned upon a last the periph
ture of moccasion type shoes, but also results in
eries
of the bevelled edges barely meet. This re
a greatly improved product.
sults in a substantial space between the opposed
The objects and features of my invention will 30 rows of thread holes l9 and 26.
be more readily understood and appreciated from
A backstay 44 is secured to the rear end of
the following detailed description of a preferred
the blank I 0 by a line of stitching 46 which leaves
manner of carrying out the process, selected for
the lower portion of the backstay unsecured as
purposes of illustration and shown in the accom
illustrated
in Fig. 4. The lower edge of the back
panying drawings, in which:
85 stay 44 is bevelled and provided with uniformly
Fig. 1 is a plan view of a composite blank pre
spaced thread holes 48. Here again the distance
pared for assembly and including the major por
between the thread holes 48 is shorter than the
tion of the upper of the shoe,
Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the forepart
plug,
'
Fig. 3 is a view in perspective showing one step
in the manufacture of a moccasin, and
Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view in perspective of
the rear end of a moccasin illustrating the treat
ment of the backstay.
In practicing the process of my invention as
distance between the, thread holes 42 in the heel
piece of the blank [0. The backstay 44 overlies
40 the back seam 38.
After the members have been thus prepared
and dimensioned they are assembled upon a last
25 and temporarily tacked in position. The
precise location of the tacks is not critical, but
45 I have found it convenient to secure the vamp
to the last by a single tack 26 driven through
one of the thread holes [9 at the tip. A tack
of upper material having the shape illustrated in
30 is driven at the side through an intermediate
Fig. l. The composite blank l0 includes a vamp
thread hole, and a tack 32 is driven through the
or forepart portion l2, opposed quarters I B, and 50 rearmost thread hole 24‘ of the plug 20 on the
a rounded heel piece. These portions surround
same side of the last as the intermediate tack 30.
a sole-shaped area the shank portion of which is
The track 32 passes also through the rearmost
apertured as shown in, It. While the blank is
thread hole I9 in the vamp I2. It is only at this
herein shown I ?rst provide a composite blank
?at, the edge of the vamp portion I2 is bevelled
throat location that a single tack passes through
The tip of the
as shown at 18, and a row of thread holes is 55 both the plug and the vamp.
2,412,621
plug is also secured to the last by a pair of tacks
28 passing through thread holes 24. when the
members have thus been temporarily secured to
the last 25, I pass a thread 34, having at each
end needles 35 and 38, through the rearmost
thread holes of the vamp and plug at the'side
opposite the tack 32. By passing the needles
Having thus disclosed my invention, what I
claim as new and desire to secure by Letters
Patent of the United States is:
1. In a method of making moccasins, the steps
comprising providing a first blank having a sole
portion and a portion adapted to form an up
wardly projecting portion of the upper, which
latter portion is provided with a bevelled edge and
a series of thread holes extending along the
through the thread holes and looping the thread
after each pass, I form a lockstitch uniting the
vamp and‘the plug. After each stitch is formed, 10 bevelled edge and passing through the full thick
ness of the blank; providing a second blank
it is tightened to draw the edges of the vamp
dimensioned to complement said latter portion
and plug together and pull these pieces tightly
in forming the upper, said second blank having
over the last 25. When the sewing operation is
a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes ex
first begun, the tightening of the stitches is re
sisted by all of the tacks described. The result 15 tending along the bevelled edge and passing
through the full thickness of the blank; placing
is that the material of the vamp and plug
the blanks upon a last 'of such size and shape.
stretches and conforms closely to the contour of
that the edge extremities of the blanks barely
the last 25. As the seam progresses from its
origin forwardly to the tip, the tacks 28 and 26
meet; and uniting the margins of the blanks by
are removed to make way for the seam. The 20 passing thread through said thread holes and
tightening of the stitches is then resisted by the
tightening the stitches to conform the blanks
tacks 30 and 32 and also by that portion of the
closely to the last.
seam already formed. The result is that the
2. In a method of making moccasins, the steps
lasting action is continued. Similarly the tack
comprising providing a blank having a sole por
30 is removed when the seam reaches that point, 25 tion and a portion adapted to form an upwardly
- and the lasting effect is then carried out against
projecting vamp portion of the moccasin, which
the tack 32 and the portion of the seam already
'vamp portion is provided with a bevelled edge
completed. The ?nal step is to remove the tack
and a series of thread holes extending along the
32 and complete the seam. It will thus be seen
bevelled edge and passing through the full thick
that the vamp and plug are united simultaneously
ness of the blank; providing a forepart plug hav
with the lasting of the shoe. The uniform spac
ing of the thread always produces a fine, straight,
uniform seam much superior to that obtained in '
the ordinary hand sewing operation in which
the thread holes are formed progressively with
ing a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes
extending along the bevelled edge and passing
through the full thickness thereof; placing the
blank and plug on a last of such size and shape
that the edge extremities of the blank and plug
barely meet; and uniting the margins of the
When the forepart of the moccasin has been
blank and plug by passing- thread through said
completed in the manner above described, a simi
thread holes and progressively tightening the
lar operation is carried out at the rear end of
stitches to conform the upper parts closely to
the shoe as suggested in Fig. 4. The backstay 40
the last.
and heel piece are also so dimensioned that their
3. In a method of making moccasins, the steps
edge extremities barely meet when the shoe is
comprising providing a blank having a sole por
assembled on the last. By passing a thread 50
tion and a portion adapted to form an upwardly
provided with needles 5| and 52 through the
projecting vamp portion of the moccasin, which
45
thread holes 42 and 48 the backstay and heel.
vamp portion is provided with a bevelled edge and
piece are united. The tightening of the stitches
a series of uniformly spaced thread holes extend
draws the backstay and heel piece together and
ing along the bevelled edge and passing through
effectively lasts the heel pocket. Here again the
the full thickness of the blank; providing a fore
seam is more uniform than it is possible to pro
part plug having a bevelled edge and a series of
. duce by ordinary hand sewing methods.
thread holes extending along the bevelled edge
The moccasin produced as the result of the
and passing through the full thickness of the
steps described may be removed from the last
plug, the holes in the plug being uniformly spaced
and a sole attached by any conventional method.
but closer together than the thread holes of the
It should be pointed out that the time in the
vamp portion; placing the blank and plug on a
process at which the sole is attached is not criti
last of such size and shape that the edge ex
cal.
tremities of the blank and plug barely meet; and
Those skilled in the art‘will appreciate that
uniting the margins of the blank and plug by
there are many possible variations and modi?ca
passing thread through said thread holes and
tions of the process herein described, and refer
progressively tightening the stitches to conform
ence to the appended claims should be made
the upper parts closely to the last.
a hand awl.
,
for a measure of the scope of my invention.
.
BERNARD F. LEE.
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