me@ §17, ma C. R. FSUHNS WAR? KNITAFABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING~THE SAME Original .Filed Jan. 15, 1941 . N , . a a n ~ . ¢ n . a~ I . . 5 A’. JUA/3 J0 „s ' nl V « f 4 BY 13d@ l Patented Dec. 17, 1946 2,412,869 UNITED STATES PATEN T _o1-‘FICE 2,412,869 WARP KNIT FABRIC AND METHOD 0F ‘ MAKING THE SAME ’ Charles R. Burns, West Reading, Pa., assignor to Vanity Fair Mills, Inc., Reading, Pa., a corpora tion of Pennsylvania Original application January 1941, Serial No., 374,219. Divided and this 13, application August 26, 1944, Serial No. 551,305 6 Claims. (Cl. (i6-192) The .present invention relates to warp knit fab ric and the method of making the same, and has for `its basic object the provision of stretchable bar and the front lguide bar. The needle ïbar warp knit fabric possessing a greater amount of snap than is usually `present in known fabrics of number according to the gauge, and `each guide this kind, and this application is a division of my application Serial No. 374,219 for Letters Pat bar has a bank of yarn guides corresponding to the number of needles in the needle bar. The ent No. 2,356,819. guide bars are slidable in reverse guide bars respectivelyknown _as the back guide is provided with a bank of needles which vary in ` ì directions longi-> tudinally of the needle bar, each guide bar >being , ‘The invention more particularly contemplates the provision of a stretchable warp knit fabric 10 controlled by individual cam or f cams.< Both guide bars, moreover, are swingable transversely produceable on a usual warp knitting `machine of the needle bar. ' ` ‘ of the type commonly known as tricot ma Also, in accordance _with the present invention, chines; the machine, however, being operated according to an improved method in order to every other yarn guide of the back guide bar_i‘s mal intended `and original form. inelastic yarns as there are elastic yarns. produce a fab-ric of usual knit construction which 15 threaded with a warp yarn (preferably‘an elastic yarn), ,and every yarn guide of the front guide imparts to said >fabric an increased .ability to bar is threaded with a warp yarn (preferably `an stretch and, at ‘the same time, supply the fabric inelastic‘yarn). Thus there are twice as many with an inherent ability to snap back to its nor . ì It is one of the most important features of the 20 According to one aspectof the invention, the back andfront guide bars respectively slide longif the yarns `are so laid as to acquire a particular tudinally of the needle bar, at times in the same direction, and at other timesV in the opposite direc, invention to provide a warp knit fabric wherein characteristic formation which gives the fabric an extraordinary degree of stretchabilìty and tion, `but the sliding motion of one guide bar snap. VAnother important feature of the invention is found in the fprovision of a warp knit fabric 25 of the other guide bar (specifically, the front guide bar) occurs either in front; of or in back of the needles. 011V@ guide bar, thatis, the back wherein‘certain yarns are kso related with cer tain other yarnsas to assumea zig-zag or accor dion formation, whereby said fabric, by reason of the zig-zag or raccordion formation of said (specifically, the back 4guide bar) occurs only in front of the needles, whereas the sliding motion 30 guide bar, has a sliding motion longitudinally of the needle bar a certain number of needles at a timeV for the distance of .la predetermined?xed certain yarns, ‘inherently and constructionally _acquiresan extraordinary degree of elasticity. ,Among‘speciiic objects of the invention is'the number of needles in onedirection and for the distance of >a predetermined iixed number of needles in the other direction, and >the other » provision „of-a fabric knitted in tricot fashion guide bar, that is, the front guide‘bar, has a sliding vmotion longitudinally of the needle bar _a certain number of needles at a'time for 'the dis, from a set of inelastic yarnsrand a set of elastic yarns, the inelastic yarns being knitted into a base fabric and the elastic yarns being laid in zig-zag direction and tied within said fabric in tance> of a predetermined variable number A’of such ‘a mannervas to produce a finished fabric 40 needles in one direction and forthe distance of a predetermined variable number of needles "in of uniform surface `by preventing said elastic the other direction. yarns from crawling or creeping which is known to be" Oilé‘of the primaryoauses of the produc tion »of` Íal wrinkled effect in such fabrics. `The invention .is specifically characterized in that‘it results in the `production of fabric pos sessingagreat manydesirable advantageous fea tures such as strength, ,elastic stretchability, and distinctive surface appearance. ` ` Thusyto give a specific example: Eachyarn in the back guide bar laps over rfour needles, one 45 needle at a time, and then drops back `over four needles, one needle at a time, whereas` eaeh yarn in the front guide bar laps over'` one needle, under one needle, and drops back over one needle, under o_ne needle, and then laps over two needles,l under one needle,` this relative lapping and drop Other important objects, features, and advan 50 ping baek of yarns in the `rear and >front guide tages of --the invention will bein part obvious and in part pointed out hereinafter. i `The 4improved fabric, in accordance with -the invention,.isñmade on a tricot warp‘knitting bars being repeated throughout the length of the fabric. . , As a result of this particular procedure, „there machine employing a needle bar and two yarn 55 is produced a Warp knit fabric consisting ‘of courses knitted from the yarns in front of ‘the 2,412,869 3 . guide bar, certain spaced courses being formed of non-reversing closed stitches on which the 4 is moved to the right over one needle, under one needle, so that the yarn is wrapped around the needle as shown at 23 in Figure 3, forming yarns in the rear guide bar are hung. Further, a- reversing closed stitch as shown at 25 (Figure the particular procedure results in that the yarns 4). Then the inelastic yarn is moved to the in the rear guide bar are laid in zig-zag or left over gone needle, under oneneedle, so that accordionelike _fashion so that said yarns, upon the yarn is wrapped about the needle as shown being relieved of the tension under which~ they at 21 (Figure 3) forming a reversing closed are laid, tend to straighten out, causing the. stitch shown at 29 (Figure 4). Thereafter, the loops of the courses knitted from the yarns in lo inelastic. yarn is moved again to the right over the front guide bar to gather, accordingly pro >two needles, under one needle, so that the yarn ducing a fabric having an increased ability to is wrapped about the needle as shown at 3I stretch and snap back, and possessing a charac (Figure 3) toform _a non-reversing closed stitch teristic surface appearance. ' ' as shown at-V 33 (Figure 4), and continues to In order that the invention and its mode of move to the right over one needle, under one operation may be more readily understood by needle, so that the yarn is wrapped about the those skilled in the art, I have, in the accom needle as shown at 35 (Figure .3) forming a panying drawing and in the detailed description reversing closed stitch as shown at 31 (Figure based thereon, set out the speciñc example of ' , 4). Then the inelastic yarn is moved to the 20 left over one needle, under one needle, so that the invention hereinbefore mentioned. the yarn is wrapped about the needle as shown at 39 (Figure 3) forming a reversing closed stitch frontI and rear guide bars of a tricot machine as shown at 4Iv (Figure 4). Then the inelastic operated to produce one fabric construction in yarn is moved to the right over one needle, under accordance with the invention; . Y one needle, so that the yarn is wrapped about Figure 2 indicates the motion of the back guide 25 the needle as shown at 43 (Figure 3) forming a barin the making of said fabric construction; reversing closed stitch as shown at 45 (Figure -Figure 3 indicates the motion of the front guide 4). Thereafter, the inelastic yarn is movedto bar in the making of said fabric construction; the left over two needles, under one needle, so Figure 4 illustrates on a greatly enlarged scale that the yarn is wrapped about the needle as the loop formation of the fabricconstruction as " shown at 41 (Figure 3) to form a non-reversing knitted on the machine; and i » closed stitch as shown at 49 (Figure 4) and con . In the drawing: . . Figure 1 indicates they combined motions of the Figure 5 is a diagrammatic representation of one face of the fabric:> construction upon being completed. . It is pointed out that, for the sake of clarity inillustration, the motion of the back guide bar is shown in heavy lines, and the motion of the front guidey bar is shown in light lines in Figures 1 through 3. tinues to vmove to the right over one needle, under one needle, so that the yarn is wrapped l about the needle as shown at 5I (Figure 3) .form ing a reversing closed stitch as shown 'at 53 (Figure 4). This constitutes one repeat, which is duplicated throughout the length of the fabric. The relative movements of the elastic. yarns IU and inelastic yarns I2 cause the interknitting . Y llëteferring to the fabric construction shown in Figures 1 to 5 inclusive, it will appear from Fig ure 1 of the drawing that in the manufacture of the fabric illustrated, two sets of Warp yarns II) and I2 `are employed, one set of >Warp yarns I0 being elasticand the other set of warp yarns I2 being inelastic. It will be noted that the elastic yarns I0 andthe inelastic yarns I2 at times are laidin front of the needles I4 in opposite direc ` of the inelastic yarns and the tying in of the elastic yarns in the manner more clearlyillus trated in Figure 4 of the drawing, from which Y it will be observed that theelastic yarns lie in 1_ a plane between the chain loops and the floats, connecting the chains. It will- be further ob served that the inelastic yarns pass back and forth _between adjacent needles for several courses and then pass over to a third needle and that tions, and at other times are laid in front of the the number of courses betweenv consecutive 5.0V needles in the same direction, and that moreover, bights of elastic yarn is equal to the number of while the number of inelastic yarns I2 is equal to chains or wales between such bights. the number of needles I4, there are only half the Attention is particularly called to number of elastic yarns I0. that the Yelastic yarns I0 vare Vnecessarily laid the fact The movement of the guides for the respective yarns I0 and I2» are represented separately in Fig ures 2 and 3. As clearly appears in Figurev 2, each elastic yarn I0 is moved, for instance, to the right in front of the needles one needle at a time for a certain number of needles, and then to the left in front‘of the needles one needle at a time for a certain number of needles. In the ex ample shown, the movement of each elastic yarn to the right and to the left is overfour needles, although it will be understood that such move ment may be 'over a different number of needles than that specified in either or both directions. ` It is to be noted particularly that each elasticV yarn, in its movement to the right and to the lunder tension. Because of this, although the elastic yarns _are laid in zig-zag directions as illustrated in Figures 1 and 2, and are hung at l' staggered points, as indicated at I9 and 2I in Figure 4, such elastic yarns come out> straight'> fabric, as is diagrammatically 60 in the completed ' represented in Figure 5. Thus the elastic yarns, in their straightening, are relieved of theirten-V sion without crawling and, therefore, do not causea wrinkled effect in thefabric. Moreover, the straightening out of the elastic yarnsrelatively shifts and gathers in coursewise VVdirection >>the loops of Yinelastic yarns constituting ¿the base fabric, with the result that a considerable in crease in stretchability and snap is imparted left, does not lap around any one needle at to the fabric. Also, as a resultof the straight any time, but is merely laid in a lengthwise 70 eningV of the elastic yarns and the shifting and position in front of the needles, the yarn at its reversal points indicated at I5 and I1 (Figure 2) ' becoming hung, as shown at I9 and 2l in Figure 4. Y gathering of the loopsof the inelastic yarns, there is produced on one 4face ofthe fabric> a distinctive grogram-like surface appearance, AVas diagrammatically illustrated inFigure 5„.1` y ‘ As shown in Figure 3, each. inelastic yal'n‘ l2 75 i 2,412,869 What I claim is: 1. A warp knit fabric consisting of two sets of Warp yarns, one set being knitted into loops con stituting successive courses, the loops in certain of said courses at spaced intervals in the fabric being of the non-reversing closed type, the loops in the remaining courses in the fabric being of the reversing closed type, and the other set of yarns being laid into the fabric in zig-zag direc~ tions and hung unto said non-reversing closed 10 loops. mediate each series, by lapping said set of in elastic yarns in reverse direction to form revers ing closed loops throughout the courses of each of said spaced series; and lapping said set of in elastic yarns in non-reverse direction to form non-reversing closed loops throughout the course intermediate each series; and laying in without knitting into loops the set of elastic yarns by loop ing said set of elastic yarns continuously in one direction in relation to one series of multiple courses of reversing closed loops and continuously 2. A Warp knit fabric consisting of two sets `of in the reverse direction in relation to the adja warp yarns, one set consisting of inelastic yarns cent series of multiple courses of reversing closed and the other set consisting of elastic yarns, the set of inelastic yarns being knitted into loops con 15 loops, whereby to hang the elastic yarns onto the non-reversing closed loops of the course inter stituting successive courses, the loops in certain mediate said series. of said courses at spaced intervals in the fabric 5. A warp knit fabric comprising two sets of being of the non-reversing closed type, and the warp yarns, one of said sets forming Warpwise loops in the remaining courses in the fabric be ing of the reversing closed type, and the set of 20 extending rows of loops arranged in courses, each of the yarns of said last named set forming alter elastic yarns being laid into the fabric in zig nately reversing and non-reversing loops in con zag directions and hung unto said non-reversing closed loops. secutive rows and successive courses, the loops of one row being connected with loops of another 3. In a method of making warp fabric from two row by floats integral therewith, and the other of sets of yarns, the steps of: knitting one set of said sets forming zig-zag floats having relatively yarns into loops for the formation of spaced series straight sections each extending across a plural-H of multiple courses and of a course intermediate ity of rows and a plurality of courses, said sec each series by lapping said one set of yarns in tions being connected by bights adjacent to non reverse direction to form reversing closed loops throughout the courses of each spaced series, and 30 reversing loops formed by said ñrst set, and the number of rows and courses traversed by the re lapping said one set of yarns in non-reverse direc spective straight sections aforesaid being equal. tion to form. non-reverse closed loops throughout 6. The method of knitting warp fabric from the courses intermediate each series; and laying in two sets of yarns, one of which is elastic and the Without knitting into loops the other set of yarns by lapping said other set of yarns continuously 35 other relatively inelastic, which comprises knit ting from said inelastic yarns a plurality of warp in one direction in relation to one series of mul wise extending rows of loops, each such yarn tiple courses of reversing closed loops, and con forming alternately reversing and non-revers tinuously in the reverse direction in relation to the adjacent series of multiple courses of revers ing closed loops, whereby to hang the yarns of said other set unto the non-reversing closed loops of the course intermediate said series. 4. In a method of making warp knit fabric from a set of inelastic yarns and a set of elastic yarns, the steps of: knitting the set of inelastic 45 yarns into loops for‘the formation of spaced se rows and courses traversed by a straight section being equal. ries of multiple courses and of a course inter CHAS. R. BURNS.