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Jan. 14, 1947. '
J. SVKAMBORIAN
2,414,104
FORCE LASTED. SHOE WITH TOE STIFFENER
Filed Oct. 31, 1944
Y
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Jan. 14, 1947.
,1. s'. KAMBORIAN -
2,414,104
FORCE LASTED S'QHOE VIITH2~£EOE§T1FFENER
' Filed Oct. 31.51944 " "
3 Sheets-Sheet 2
Jan. 14, 1947; >
'
J,‘ 5; KAMBQRIAN
2,414,104 _
Fonvcls LASTED SHOEVWIT‘H TOE STIFFENER
Filed Oct‘. 31, ‘1944
‘
'
I
s SheetsI-Sheet s
layer
@626 Ji?k'zméanmrv
Patented Jan. 14, 1947
' 2.41.4,104
,
UNITED STATES I _ Parapr- .orrl‘cs' . A]
2,414,104
'
‘
_
FORCE LASTED SHOE WITH TOE STIFF ENER
Jacob S. Kamborian, West Newton, Mass.‘
‘7 _
Application October 31, 1944, Serial'No‘. "561,282.
‘ '12 Claims. v_ (or. sell-‘19.5)
This invention pertains to force-lasted or‘Cali-'
In accordance with the present inventiom'the
fornia type shoes, and relatesfmore particularly
upper of the shoe may-be provided with a stiffener: ‘
to a novel shoe‘and to a novel method of making a
at .either en‘d—fo_r example it may have a box‘
at the, toe‘, or a counter at. the ,heel, or both as
may be‘ desired. As illustrated; the, toe sti?ener
2 iscut to the proper shape and dimensions'in _‘
such shoes.
.
Heretofore the introduction of'end .stiffeners
(toe boxes and counters)‘ into such shoes has
been attended with di?iculty, and by far the t '
greater proportion of shoes of this'type are made
accordance'withvusual practice, providing suf-v
' flcient marginal material for its attachmentlto. the ‘
without end stiifeners, although. the provision; ’ sock lining as hereinafter ‘described; and the'
of such sti?eners would in many cases enhance it counter 3 is likewise in generalof conventional
form and dimensions, but also hasgsu?icient mar
the appearance and Wearing qualities of the shoe. -
The principal objector ‘the present invention
ginal allowance'for its attachment to the sock.‘
is to provide‘a novel mode of procedure whereby
liningg The toe stiffener 2 and the heel‘stifi'enerv
a toe box or counter,‘ or both, may readily 'be
3 are made of,_suitable material ‘which- is‘prefer- ‘
introduced during the course of manufacture and 15 ably initially quite soft and ?exible; for example
without necessitating any radical departure from
textile‘fabric, either} plain-or impregnated-with‘
prior practice in making shoes of this type.v A‘
appropriate substances to imparts-the required
further object is_ to provide a novel and useful
stiffness to. the ?nished shoe andfrwhichrifinot
method whereby an end stiffener may be inter
initially pliable, is‘ made to become; sogjitempoaw ‘
posed between the lining and'outer element of 20'
textile
rarily, fabric,
justbefore‘oriduring
paper stock or other
lasting._qInsteadPof
suitableflbrous .; >
the shoe upper. ‘Other and further vobjects and
advantages of the invention will be pointed out‘
material‘ may be used, impregnated, for- example, .1
in the following more detailed- description and
with some‘ resin
waterproo?ng
compound.substancesuch
One. desirable mate-'
as'an »~
by reference to the accompanying“ drawings‘, - ‘' asphaltuor
wherein
~
'
25 ing
rial offor
for ‘the
comprisingiyarns
stiffener-ls a textilefabricponsiste
which maybe made ' i
\
Fig. 1 is a plan view of a-sock lining such as
employed in shoes ofthetype to which the inven- I
tion
relates;
,
a
.
'
.
t
t
-
to become adhesive or cementitious, by, suitable‘ .
' ‘treatmen’gfor instance. recurrent yarns (ofl'elther 6.
.
Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic section on the line 2-2
the warp yarns,.'weft§yarns, or both)’ of vthe tax-F"
to tile fabric;
befrnade from cellulose acetate "
Fig.‘ 3 is a diagrammatic plan view of‘ a toe
or other ‘ft Vrmoplastic resin,which,.‘when‘ sub?"
stiffener or box’ useful in the practice of'th'e
vjected‘to proper treatment,- forexampleiby mois- : - 1 \
present invention;
‘
'
‘
tening- with .a proper solventand/or by'~treat-»~"
.ofFig.1;r
I
Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic plan view of a heel ‘
ment with heat and pressure become temporarily > w .
stiffener or counter'useful in the ‘practice of the .35 adhesive. ‘ on the. other hand the end stiffeners. ' ‘3 ~
present invention;
'
r
> instead of having the adhesive or cementitious ~
Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic,‘longitudinal section‘ I material incorporated .in them, maybe provided
through the sock lining showing both‘ end stiff-v
eners
Fig. secured
6 is a view
thereto.
similar to' Fig. 5 but showing the
shoe upper assembled with and attached to the?
sock lining;
.
r
' with a 'coating?'ofsuch material on one or both‘ . -
sides.‘ _In any .event the cementitious material
14o, ‘should belsuch“ thatwhen
the‘ stiffener isv ?rs - ~
incorporated in the'y'slhoethe adhesive material is
‘ inert,_that is tolsayi not tacky, although having"
the inher?ntncapabilityi of becoming adhesive
whenfhea'tedt or lotherwise properly treated as
‘
Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but showing
the parts after introduction of the last into the
45
abovelsuggestedh
“
.‘
,
l
.
.Fig. 8 is a longitudinal section showing the com-fr ‘5 ' Havingfprepa'red the:s0ck.lining and one or
pleted shoe with the last still in the upper;
sh‘iboth of'the end stiffeners, the'lower edge of each
Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 6 but illustrating 7 ‘end stiffener to be ‘used. is’ secured‘to the corre
a modified procedure;
‘
" "spp'ndipg'feiidgof [the sock lining‘ by a sewed seam
Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic bottom plan view of?‘ "I or 5.4; respectively (Fig. 75) or. by other appro
the parts shown in Fig. 9; and '
.-'
>
theFig.
shoe
11 parts
is a view‘
after‘similar
the introduction
to Fig. 9 but
of the
showing
last.
priateiastening elements,.for' example staples.
"Preferably",~ the initial dimensions of each. stiff- :
ener element 2 or 3 is such that its upper edge is '
Referring to the drawings, the numer\a.l___l_\de_s; ‘_ " _;o,f_;less length, when initially attached to the
ignates a sock lining of the generaltype cus- " sock dining than it is in the completed shoe, the
tomarily employed in force-lasted shoes and, , material being;capab_le of stretching to'some ex;
which is usually of'thin,‘?_exib1e sheet'materiahl ; ‘?tent when subjected to sui'licient force. “
for example’thin leather, textile fabric or a com?
The shoe upper, as-illustrated in Fig. 6, com
"bination of textile fabric ‘with other material,
prises a vamp portion 8 and a quarter portion ‘I.
for example paperQintegrated or impregnated .60 . The vamp and quarter may be of customary form
with suitable binding or stiffening material.
/ appropriate to the particular style of shoe being .
1
"2.114.104
4
madafor example, they maybe integral; or they
may be‘ separate pieces. or‘ material united by:
seams or- they may be entirely separate. leaving:
sock lining, the scam I 0, here, referred to as an
example-of means for attaching the upper to the
sock lining, may be started at a convenient point,
for instance at the shank portion of the shoe,
a sap at the shank or waist portion of; the shoe
' Preferably. in. ordentomsure lucashaping. atthe
the’ stitches passing through both elements of
~ toe. and’ particularlrwhena toestiifener is 9.51;?" .
plored. themaraln‘of- the
the- upper. -However when the seam reaches a
portion of the. vamp
point 2|! (Fig. 10) corresponding to the rear end
is crimped or otherwise contracted so as. to. pro
of the toe, stiffener at that side of the shoe, the
lining is pulled rearwardly to form a loose flap
vide an inwardly concave toe end.
There is also provided wrapper- means, here 7 - asshown at 2| (Fig. 9) and so as to escape the
shownas comprisine two independent wrapper
stitches. of seam/l0, the latter then penetrating
strips]: and 0 desisned to-he securedto the vamp '
portion and‘ to the. quarter I portion. respectively.
' the outer-ply. l 6. only of- the upper and continuing
of the shoe upper. the wrapper elements being
so arranged that their. endszlt the shank-portion;
of‘the shoe overlap. ‘However it, is,c0ntemp1ated,:
in accordance with‘ other common; practice, that
the wrapper. may‘ be. continuous, consisting of a
singlepiece of material; extending‘ all the way
aroundthe shoe. The wrapper. may be attached, 20
-to theedge of the upper before theupper
is assembled with the other parts... or it may. be
along, around the; toe of the shoe to unite the
toev element. l8, to the sock lining until the point
22 is reached, whereupon the stitches again are
caused to pass through both the outer element
l8 and the lining ply I 8 of the vamp. The seam
continues on until it reaches, the point 23 at the
forward corner .of the counter, at which point
the lining is pulledinwardly to form a. loose ?ap
24 (Fig.v 9), the- seam continuing around the heel
and of the shoe but securing only they outer ele
ment, l6 to the ‘sock lining until the point 25 is
reached at the .opposite corner of the counter,‘
attached simultaneously with-the attachment Off
the upperito another part, for instance thesock
lining, or in, fact the wrapper-may. be an integral, 25. beyond which the seam continues, uniting both
extcnsionpftheupperitself. Whatever the type > inner and outer‘ plies of the upper to the sock
of
employed. thelower edge of the up
per is securedllto the marginof the sock- lining by
a seam" org‘seains .llv and H, such seamsusually
lining.
'
_
The operator may now push the flaps 2| and
also extendingethrough .the edge of the wrapper. 3.0 24 inwardly toward the ends of theshoe, it being
noted that the toe and heel ends of the lining
While'sewed seams; are desirable, it is contem
are out without lasting allowance, and after sub
plated‘that staples may besubstltuted- After the
mittingthe stiffener elements to the treatment
upper‘. has‘ been assembled- withv and attached to.
necessary to make them adhesive, the last L is
.the sock lining, the end sti?ener or stiifeners. are}
inserted, thus forcing the flaps of the lining ?rm
subjected to ‘appropriate treatment to cause them. 35 ly-into
engagement with the respective end stiff
to become temporarily:adhesiveand, the last L
eners
and.
adhesively integrating the lining, stiff
-is forced into the shoe-upper (F18. '1),-the last
being'of. such sizeand dimensions (as. respects
ener, and outer element of.the upper at each
inner surface of the, upper so asto cause adhe
sion of .the, stiffener and: upper. The. last. L re
mains in. the upper‘long- .enough1to permit the
cordance with the present process the preliminary
attachment of theend stiifeners to the sock lin
end of the shoe, The other steps in completing
the size of theshoe-upmi') that-when-it is forced
into the upper it expands the upper’ and holds 40 the shoe follow those above described with ref
erence ‘to the construction shown in Fig. 8.
the latter'in fully distended condition so that it
It is thus possible to provide a force-lasted
firmly. and closelyv hugs. the woodof the last.
shoe with a to'eror heel stiffener element but
In thus introducing the last into the upper,v the
without substantially departing from the usual
stinener‘el'ement?or elementais or; are caused: to
steps in making a force-lasted'shoe and without
conformeiothe corresponding end portion of the
unduly adding to' the cost of production. In ac
last and to be'.pressedjvery- ?rlnly, against the
ing, as above described is an operation which is
very easy to perform and one which in fact may
50 be performed by unskilled operators, but never
manentlyto unite the stiffener and‘ upper and
adhesiveelern'ent of the upper toset so as per
thus to. impart a. permanent lasted shape? to, the
end of the shore. The wrapperis now turned
downwardly as shown. in Fig. firthecushion sole
I! with its heel wedge ill (Fig. ,8) is, disposed
in adhesivevcontact with the under- surface of
the socklining; the; lower- marginsv lljand" ll! of
the wrapper members, are-turnedinwardly. be
neath‘ the cushion . sole, and adhesively united to
theless, in‘ the completed shoe, the end stiffener
is properly positioned and imparts a true lasted
shape and desirable stiffness to the shoe upper.
While certain desirable embodiments of the in
vention have been illustrated by way of example
it is to be understood that'the invention is broad
ly inclusive of any and all modi?cations which
fall within the scope of the appended claims.
the latter, and the outer sole-B is, securedin '60 Iclaim: ’
1. That method-of making-a force-lasted shoe
place, for example, by adhesive. Theylaste may
which comprises as steps providing a soft, ?exi
now be withdrawn, and the shoe-?nished‘ in» ac
cordance with usual practice.
,
_
'
V
A slight modi?cation is illustrated in Figs.‘ 9
to 11, inclusive, the only substantial difference
being that, in these views-‘the vamp portionof"
the upper isv shownas comprising anouter'ply 1.
ble sock lining, providing an end stiffener, secur
ing the lower edge of the stiffener to the edge
of the corresponding portion of the sock lining,
65 providing an upper and a wrapper, securing the
lower edge of the upper and the edge of the
wrapper to the edge of the sock lining, causing
I‘ and a liningply ll‘ while. the quarter portion
the end stiffener to become adhesive, introducing
has the outer ply l1 and a lining ply ll, the
lining being united'at itstop edge to the outer 70 a last into the upper and retaining the last in
the upper until the adhesive of the stiffener has
portions of‘ the upper in conventional manner;
As described with reference talks I to 8; the
2. That method of making a force-lasted shoe
end. sti?eners 2 and 3' are first; secured‘ by the
seams 4v and I- tothe sock lining.- During the' which comprises as steps, providing a soft, ?exi
ble sockv lining, Providing an end stiffener, the
attachment or the margin of the upper to the
end stiffener being initially non-cementitious but
set.
‘
‘
>
5
2,414,104
being inherently capable of becoming cementi
tious, the upper end or the stiffener being ini
6
forming the seam, turning back the lining ply
at that end of the shoe at which the stiffener is
tially less in length than in the completed shoe,
located so that the 'edge portion of the lining ply ”
securing the lower edge of the stiffener to the
is not caught into the seam, causing the stiffener
lower end of the corresponding end of the sock 5 to become adhesive, and introducing a last into
lining, providing an upper and a wrapper, se
curing the lower edgeof the upper and the wrap
per to the edge of ‘the sock lining, introducing a
last into the upper and causing the stiifener to‘
the upper thereby moving the turned back por
tion of the lining into contact with the inner sur
face of the stiffener, and subjecting the latter to
pressure thereby adhesively to integrate the lin
become adhesive, the last being forced into the 10 ing, stiffener and outer ply of the upper at the
upper with su?icient pressure to expand the stiiT
ener and press it into intimate adhering contact I
with the upper, and maintaining such pressure
until such stiffener and upper are permanently’
adhesively united.
3. That method ‘of making a shoe of the force
lasted type which comprises as steps providing
endof the'shoe.
=
-
8. That method of making a force-lasted shoe
which comprises as steps providing a thin, ?exible
sock lining, providing an upper including an outer
ply and a lining ply, providing a counter and a toe
stiffener, securing the lower edges of the counter
and toe ‘stiffener .to the margins of the corre
a soft, ?exible sock lining, providing an end stiff»
sponding end portions of the sock lining, attach
ener, securing the lower edge of the stiffener to
ing the lower edge of the upper to the margin of
the edge of the corresponding end portion of 20 the sock lining by fastener elements which pene
the sock lining, providing an upper and a wrap
trate both the lining and outer ply of the upper
per, securing the lower edges of the upper and
except at the ends of the shoe where said fas
wrapperrespectively to the edge of the sock lin
tener elements penetrate the outer ply only, leav
ing, causing said stiffener to become adhesive,
ing the lining ply iree, causing the counter and
and causing the adhesive sti?ener to adhere to
toe stiffener to become adhesive, and introducing
the upper.
a last into the shoe, the last being of such size
4. That method of making a shoe of the force
a soft, ?exible sock lining, providing an end
relatively to the shoe size as to distend the upper
and forcibly to press the end portions of the lin
ing into contact with the surlaces or the counter
stiifener, securing the lower edge of ‘the stiffener
to the edge of the corresponding end‘portion of
and toe stiffener, respectively, and adhesively to
integrate the end stlneners, lining and outer ply
the sock lining, providing an upper and a wrap
per, securing the lower edges of the upper and
at the end of the shoe.
9. That method or making a force-lasted shoe
which comprises as steps providing a sort, ?exible
sock lining, providing an end summer, the end
stiiiener including a substance which initially is
lasted type which comprises as steps providing
wrapper respectively to the edge of the sock
lining, causing said stiffener to become adhesive,
applying internal pressure to the end stiifener
thereby to expand it and force it into close and
substantially non-adhesive but is inherently ca
intimate contact with the upper, and maintaining
pable or becoming adhesive, securing the lower
such pressure until the adhesive has set.
edge of the stihener to the margln DI the end of
5. That method of making a force-lasted shoe 40 the sock lining, providing an upper, sewing the
which comprises as steps providing a soft, ?exi
lower edge OI the upper to the marginal portion
hie sock lining, providing a toe sti?ener of sheet
of the sock lining, causing the adhesive to become
sticky, and introducing a last into the upper
material, the stiffener, including a substance
thereby pressing the stiffener into adhering en
which initially is ‘non-adhesive but which is in
herently capable of becoming adhesive, sewing
gagement with the end portion or‘ the upper.
the lower edge of the sti?ener to the edge of the
10. A iorce-lasted shoe of the kind in which a
toe end of the sock lining, providing an upper
sock lining, an upper and a wrapper are united
having a crimped and inwardly concave toe end,
by fastening means, the upper comprising a lin
ing and an outer ply, the lining being Iree from
sewing the lower edge ‘of the upper ‘to the mar
ginal portion of the sock lining, causing the toe 50 said Iastening means at the end or the shoe, and
an end stiriener having its lower margin united
stiffener to become adhesive, ‘and introducing a
last into the upper thereby forcing the toe stiff
by said fastening means to the sock lining, said
ener into adhering engagement with the toe por
stiiiener being interposed between the lining and
tion of the upper.
outer ply of the upper.
6. That method of making a force-lasted shoe
11.. A Icrce, lasted shoe of the class described
which comprises as steps providing a soft, flexible
comprising a sock lining, an upper, a wrapper
sock lining, providing a counter of sheet ma
‘and, at one end, a stiifener, said upper compris
terial, the counter including a substance which
ing an outer ply and. a lining, tile stlliener oelng
initially is non-adhesive but which is inherently
interposed between the outer ply and the lining
capable of becoming adhesive, sewing the lower
- edge of the counter to the heel end of the sock
lining, providing an upper, sewing the lower edge
of the upper to the marginal portion of the sock
lining, causing the counter to become adhesive
and‘ introducing a last into the upper thereby
[forcing the counter into adhering engagement
with the heel portion of the upper.
7. That method of making a force-lasted shoe
of the upper, the wrapper and the lower edges
or‘ the stln'ener and 01' the outer ply or the up
per being united by iasten-lng means to the sock
lining at ‘that end, and the lining of the upper
at that endbeing i'ree irom such iastemng, means.
12. A force lasted shoe of the class described.
comprising a sock lining, an upper and, at one
end, a stin'ener, said upper comprising an outer
ply and a lining,the stinener being interposed be
which comprises as steps providing a thin, flexible ,
tween the outer ply and the lining OI the upper,
sock lining, providing an upper including an outer
the lower edges or .the stirtener and of the outer
70
ply and a lining ply, providing an end stiifener,
ply of the upper being united by fastening means
securing the lower edge of the end sti?ener to
to the sock lining at that end, and the lining of
s the margin of the corresponding end of the sock
the upper at that end being free from such fas
lining, attaching the lower edge margin of the
upper to the sock lining by a seam and while
tening means.
JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.
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