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Jan. 14, 1947.
J. s. KAMBORIAN ET AL
2,414,105
MANUFACTURE OF OPEN-END SHOES
Filed Feb.‘ 22, 1945
s Sheets-Sheet 1'
Jan. 14, 1947-'
2,414.105
J. 5. KAMBORIAN ETAL
MANUFACTURE OF OPEN-END‘SHOES
_
Filed Feb. 22, 1943
I
E-SheetS-Sheet 2
Jam 14, 1947-
J. S’KAMBORIAN ETAL
2,414,105
MANUFACTURE OF OPEN-END SHOES
Fileld Feb. 22, 1943
V
3 Sheets-Sheet 3
1
Patented Jan. 14, 1947
2,414,105 .
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
West Newton, and'Wilfred
Jacob S..Kamborian,
Mass; said: Tracy assignor ‘ to
T. rEracy, Lynn,
said. Kamborian
Application September 22, 1943, Serial No. 503,337
5 Claims. (01. 36-1945)
1
a cushioning element orv “platform” at the fore
This invention pertains to the manufacture of
footwear; particularly" to the manufacture- of
shoes of’ the open-toe and/or‘ open-heel variety,
and: especially to those made by» the iorce-lasting
part of’ the shoe’;
Fig. 5' is a side elevation of‘ the assembled‘ parts
shown in Fig. 4;
Fig, 6‘ is a perspective view, showing the shoe
ofFig. 3"to larger scale;
method, and‘ relates more pat-icularlyto a novel
construction for such shoes, and to a method of
making such shoes.
In making shoes or the open-toe pr open-heel
Fig. '7' is a section, substantially on the line
l--'l'oi Fig. 10';
'
Fig. dis a fragmentary perspective'view-of ‘the
variety it is necessary to provide a ?nish for the 120. heel'endi of‘ the shoe showing the margin of. the
edge of the middle sole where such edge is ex
sock lining wrapped about. the~ edge of the mid
posediat the toe or heel opening, or both. Gus
cllj'e sol'e;
'
tomarily this finish is provided by applying a
Fig. 9‘ isa bottom view of the structure shown
in Fig. 5;
Fig._ 1.0 is a side elevation of the completed
shoe;
Fig. 11 is a plan View of a sock liningoi modi
binding tape or ribbon to the edge of the-sole
member, the ribbon or tape overlappingibothithe
upper and lower surfaces of the sole member
and being. cemented or otherwise secured in
place. For optimum appearance the edge ?nish
shouldbe substantially identical in color, and 133K‘!
ture with the exposed upper surface of the shoe
bottom structure (usually a sock lining), butit
?ed, construction;
is not always easy or expedient to provide a
through theshoe of, Fig. 12, showing a heel
arranged in. readiness for attachment; and
Fig. 12, is a perspective View of a‘ lasted’ shoe
having. a sock- lining like that of Fig. 11;
‘Fig. 13 is airagmentary longitudihalsection
binding tape orribbon which matches the sock
lining. Moreover, theapplication of this ribbon
requires skill and is, slow,etime—consuming, and
expensive. At the, heel end of‘ the, shoe the sock
Fig. vl4 isa fragmentary diagrammatic longi
25 tudinal sectionthroughthe toe. end of. the com
lining; overlaps this marginal bindingand thus
pleted. shoe.
thehpper surface of thesolemember is made
uneven, Furthermore theedge of thesock lin
usualmaterials, for instance textile fabric, cus
Referring to. the drawings, the numeral 1 des
ignates a sock liningwhich may be .of any of the
ing is exposed if, it extends, to, the heel of the 30
shoe.
Thepresent invention‘ has, for one of;itsaob.
jectsthe provision of an improved shoe; of the
open-end; type in which the edge ‘of; they middle
sole, at. the. open end of the shoe, is ?nished 35
tomarily employedinthe manufacture of force
lasted shoes.
forward integral extension 2 at. its too end, this
extension here being shown as of substantially
fan-shape. having the forwardly divergent edges
smoothly and so as to have identically the same
texture and color as the exposed upper surface
of. the. sock lining. Afurther object is tohpro
vide a novel method-of making shoes of the-open.
endvariety wherein the exposed end edge of the 40
middle sole. maybe ?nished acceptably, expedis
tiously and at‘ a cost less than that involved in
the, prior process, and which results in a shoe
of improved construction and appearance, A
further, object isto provide anjmproved sock
lining. as a step product in the practice of the
improved method of the, present invention.
other, andfurther objects and advantages ofthe
invention .will be pointed out in, the ‘following
more detailed description, and by. reference; to
the. accompanying drawings, wherein
Fig;.»_-1 is-a plan view of an improved sock lin
ing made in accordance with the present-inven
tion;
Fig. 2 is a bottomhview, to smaller sca1e,‘of a
shoaupper havingthe improved sock, lining as!
sembled'
therewith;
Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig.‘ 2, but showing
a middlesole'assembledmth the upper and sock
lining;v
,
Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing
Thisv sock lining, in accordance
with the present invention,.is provided witha
3 and 4 and the. curved front edge 5. As illus~
tratedin Fig. 1, the. sock. lining l- is also fur
nished with an integral. rear extension 6. extend
ing. completely aroundthe heelend of the sock
lining and terminating at ‘I substantiallyv in the
line of .the heel breast.
As here’ illustrated, the shoe upper comprises
a .vamp- 3 having a lining 8a, the vamp being
shaped to provide anopening? at the toe of the
shoe. As here. shown, the quarter portion ll)
of the upper is integral with the'vamp» 8, although
it-may be. aseparate part if‘ desired, and this
quarter is‘ cut: away to leave an opening it at
theheel end of the shoe, the quarter at this-point
beingmerelya strap I2 designed to embrace the
ankle.’
As here illustrated, the outer member of the
upper has a, lower marginal integral extension
81?. desi'gnedto constitute a wrapper. While here
shown asintegrahit is to be understood that the
wrapper. may be. a separate element, for example
a stripof textile fabric stitched to the outer
member of the upper. As illustrated, this wrap
per member 8? extendsirom the opening at the
60 toe of the shoe to the point M which is sub‘
2,414,105
stantially at the junction of the heel and shank
portions of the shoe.
In assembling the parts the lining member 8a
The upper and sock lining are assembled in ac
cordance with the proceeding above described,
the last is inserted, the middle sole applied, and
of the upper is secured to the marginal portion
the wrapper and toe extension are wiped-in and
of the sock lining l by an inseam Me which exsecured in place. The outer sole is also applied,
tends from the Open-toe end of the shoe to the
but in preparation for the application of the
point l4. If desired vthe inseam stitches may pass
heel H, the heel member [Y of the sock lining
through both the outer member of the upper
is tucked in, as shown in Fig. 13, so as to expose
and the lining 8a and through the Substance of
the heel end of the middle sole. Fastening means,
the sock lining. After the sock lining and upper 10 for example nails I9, is now applied for securing
have thus been united by the inseam, a last L
the heel H in place and the rear ?ap l-‘1 of the
(Fig. 12) is inserted so as to distend the upper
sock lining is then withdrawn from beneath the
and hold the seek lining taut- A middle sole
shank portion and after being adhesively coated
(Fig- 3) is HOW secured by adhesive to the under
is laid down over the heads of the fasteners l9
surface of the socking lining. As here shown this 15 so as to conceal the latter and to form a heel
middle sole 15 comprises a stiff heel and shank
pa,d_
Portion, a ?eXible forepart portion 15“, and a stiff
While certain desirable embodiments of the in
tOe portion l5b- However, the exact construc~
vention have herein been illustrated and de
tion of this middle sole is 110 necessary Part Of
scribed it is to be understood that the invention
the present invention- After this middle sole has 20 is not necessarily limited to these precise details
been secured in place, a cushion 01‘ platform 15
of construction but is to be regarded as broadly
(Fig- 4) of thick resilient material, fOI‘ example
inclusive of all equivalents falling within the
felt, is secured to the under surface of the middle
terms of the appended claims.
sole by means of adhesive. As here illustrated
We claim;
(Fig. 4) this cushion or platform extends from 25
1, A force-lasted shoe of the open-end type
the toe t0 the ball Of the i001], but it may be excomprising an upper having a Wrapper joined
tended fulither toward- the h_ee_1 if _desired' The
thereto, a sock lining united by an inseam to the
toe extension 2 of the sock lining is now turned
upper and a Sole member which is exposed at the
downwardly 59 as Bob cover altd conceal the edges
open end of the shoe, the sock lining having an
gl?éirzggognliioggcgé" °fhlihe mlddl; sPllesa'rgg also of 30 integral portion which extends downwardly, over
.
.
mem
'31 . ’ wiped-m
.9 ma‘?
gm
221 (Fig.
9) ofGus
theIon
part
2 being
laps
f and
.d conceals
1
b the
__ tedge
th of the exposed
d f thportion
h
the latter by means of adhesive (Fig. 9).
beneath the cushion member I6 and securedThe
to
gngalwlfizg 13221;;
itowere glljsggiin dilposgds
boee’'
‘
.
heel extension 6 is likewise turned downwardly
math the Sole ntembet’ the lower margmpf the
and its marginal portion 6“ (Fig. 9) is wiped_m
Wrapper also being disposed beneath said sole
beneath the rear portion of the middle sole l5
member‘
and secured to the latter by adhesive.
These
integral extensions of the sock lining thus form
, _
2
S_h°e aof mlddle
the Open-toe
type comprising
sock hmng'
sole ha‘fmg
a_ Cushlonmga
a ?nish for the exposed portions of the middle 40 element secured to the under side of its forepart
sole and its cushion element at the toe and heel
ends, respectively, of the shoe and since these extensions are integral with the sock lining, the
_
extend? downwardly’ overleppleg the We end of
the mlddle 501?’ the f_ree margm of sa;1d_ down‘
operation of covering and concealing the exposed
wardiy extending P01: “on of the Sock hnmg un
edges of the insole and cushion at the heel and 45 derlymg the cushlonmg element
toe is greatly facilitated and it is possible for
3
0f_ thebyopenfend
type
relatively unskilled persons to obtain good results
Wheremforce-lasted
2' Sock lmmg51198
1S umted
an mseam
to
and to provide a ?nely ?nished appearance for
th? shoe upper’ the upper havmg 9' Wrapper
these portions of the Shoe_
umted thereto, a middle sole secured to the sock
The margin of the Wrapper portion 8b of the 50 lining, the sock lining having an integral exten~
upper is wiped inwardly and secured by adhesive
sion which laps and conceals the edge of the mid
to the exposed under surfaces of the cushion memdle S916 at the Open e_nd of the shoe’ the Wrapper
ber l6 and shank portion of the middle sole l5.
lappmg and conqealme the edge of the middle
An outer sole I7 is now secured in place by means
$019 at other portlons of the shoe
of adhesive, the outer sole covering a d conceal- 55
4- A force‘lasted Shoe of the open'end type
ing the turnedqn margins of the ‘Happen The
wherein a sock lining is united to the shoe upper,
heel I-;[ (Fig, 10) is now attached to the rear end
a middle sole secured to the sock lining, and a
portions of the outer and middle soles by fastencushioning element secured to the under side
ing means extending down through the sole mem0f the middle 5016’ the sock lining having an in
hers into the heel. A suitable heel pad (not 60 teeral extension lapping and concealing the edges
Shown) may be applied so as to cover the upper
of the middle sole and cushioning element at the
surface of the heel end of the middle sole.
Open end of the shoe
In accordance with a modi?ed arrangement,
5. A force-lasted shoe of the open-end type
as illustrated more particularly in Figs, 11, 12
wherein a sock lining is stitched to the shoe up
and 13, the sock lining IX comprises an integral (:5 per, the upper having a Wrapper united thereto,
‘
'
ding the toe extension 2
a middle sole secured to the under side of the sock
antially at the lining of
lining, the sock lining having an integral exten
hls mam portion Ix of the
sion lapping and concealing the edge of the mid
on Iy is attached by a seam
dle sole at the open end of the shoe, the free mar
f this sock lining may be of 70 gin of the extension underlying the middle sole,
rom the main portion, for
the margin of the wrapper underlying the middle
r suitable to form a heel pad,
sole at other parts of the shoe, and an outer sole
nd attached by the seam l8,
secured to the middle sole.
olded back beneath the shank
n part of the socket lining.
75
JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.
WILFRED T. TRACY.
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