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Jan,‘ 14, 1947.
w. c. VIZARD
TWO-UNIT WELTING
Filed NOV. 29, 1945
3
2,414,249,
Patented Jan. 14, 1947
2,414,249
UNITED STATES PATENT
2,414,249
OFFICE,
TWO-UNIT WELTING
William
Vizard; CBrockton, Mass.,- assignor to
BarbourC. Welting
ompany, Brockt'on, Mass, 21;
co -part'nership
Application‘ November 29, 1945', SeriallNo. 631,576.
5 Claims.
(01'. 12'_146)
10
15
‘ ordinary Goodyear-weltingi.
As the shoe manufacturer purchases welting
according to the required width‘ of the resultant
Welt extension or deck and not according‘ to.‘ the
overall width‘ of‘ the welt, it ‘
20
25
age for the- inseam stitchi
'
}
— inchwwide is divided to form
a closer ?tting, non~grinning welt capable of hold 30.
ing the shoe upper‘m proper
' '
ing the formation of a. gutter between upper and
welt.
base unit is‘ 5%
The two units are cemented together as shown
in Fig. 2 with the cover ?ap“ adhesively secured
to the wall I3'and. to the exposed surfaces, of. the
40
of a the heavy welting;
Fig. 2 is a perspective view
45
made from the ?llet‘of Fig. 1‘; of the plied welt,
Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1, showing an
optional modi?cation in which the widths of the
two units areapproximately equal;
Fig. 4 is a fragmentary section through the 50
as
Th
2,414,249
having a marginal ?ange of less thickness than
the body of said unit, cementing the top unit to
the base unit, and cementing said grain lip to
said wall and to the top of said marginal ?ange
Fig. 3 shows a variation in the welt of Fig. 2,
producing a full half-inch deck and a base 15/32
inch wide, made from the ?llet of Fig. 1 by so
the base cut that the bottom of the top
as a cover ?ap therefor, thereby forming a re
ceding welt shoulder and an inseam ?ange below
width of 1%2 inch, and the bottom
of the base unit 22 is
' 14/32 inch wide.
' Figs.
said shoulder.
two-unit welting,
‘
2. A method of making
5 and 6, a
which ‘consists
grain leather ?llet
deck 15/32 inch wideand a full half
by forming an inclined cut in the ?esh body of
inch base is produced from a ?llet 27/32 inch wide 10 the ?llet and a lateral cut adjacent its grain sur
being obtuse,
by making a diagonal cut 1%,2 inch from the left
the angle between said cuts
hand edge of the ?llet, as at 23., a lateral cut 24 _ face,
thereby to provide a top unit having a_ grain
terminating 1% ‘
_
' deck, an undercut ?esh wall and a grain lip pro
'
and a short vertical cut to the
jecting from the top of said wall,
form units 25 and 26. Top‘unit 25 has I
dercut ?esh wall at 2'3, and a relatively narrow
grain lip 21; and base unit 23 has a sloping in
15 having a marginal ?ange of
the body of said unit, cementing the top unit
to the base unit, and cementing said grain lip to
seam ?ange 28, and a narrow grain platform 29.
said'wall and to the top and outer edge of said
The latter is preferably buffed or skived, before
marginal ?ange as a cover ?ap therefor, thereby
the units are cemented together under molding 20 forming a receding welt shoulder and a'two-ply
pressure, as in Fig. 6. As before, the cover ?ap
inseam ?ange below said shoulder.
' '
21 is cemented to the undercut ?esh wall and over
3. A method of making two-unit welting,
the sloping surface of the inseam ?ange.
which consists in dividing a grain leather ?llet
In the remaining modi?cations a wider ?llet
by forming a short vertical cut in the base of the
(approximately one inch) is employed to furnish 25 ?llet, an inclined cut in the ?esh body of the
a welt having a full half-inch deck and a rela
?llet and a lateral out adjacent its grain surface,
tively wide base, and the grain lip of the top unit
the angle between said inclined and lateral cuts
is cemented to an undercut wall and onto the
being obtuse, thereby to provide a top unit hav
?at top surface of aninseam ?ange of the base
ing a grain deck, an undercut ?esh wall and a
unit, but does not extend over the edge to the to grain lip projecting from the top of said wall,
bottom of the base unit. These variations ac
and a base unit having a beveled marginal ?ange,
cordingly‘ do not afford the manufacturing
cementing the top unit to the base unit, and
economies of the previous examples, but provide
'
'
lip to said wall and to the
therefor, there
a sturdier construction for heavier shoes.
The form shown in Figs. 7 and 8 provides an
by forming a receding welt shoulder and an in
?ange and is particularly ad
'with receding toes,
for the inseam ?ange may be trimmed ?ush,
seam ?ange below said shoulder.
without severing the inseam stitch which passes
through the crease at the bottom of the reced
by forming a short vertical cut in the base of the
?llet, an inclined cut in the ?esh body of the ?llet
and a lateral cut inclining to its grain surface
at the edge of the ?llet, the angle between said
ing shoulder. The ?llet is cut substantially as
shown in-Fig. 5, to providev
base unit 32, but the base unit is inverted so that
the ?at ?esh
lateral cuts being obtuse, thereby
a top unit having a grain deck,
'
to provide
dercut [flesh wall and a grain lip pro
by furnishing
which is covered by the grain lip 35 of the top
unit.‘ The inseam groove 36 is located at the
angle between the platform and the body of the
‘inverted base unit, and the inseam stitch is buried
in this groove, remote from the bottom of the
welt and out of the way of the trimmer which
guides on said bottom.
_
In Figs. 9 and 10, the ?llet is- also divided sub
stantially as shown in Fig. 5, b
'
‘l. A method of making two-unit welting,
which'consists in dividing a grain leather ?llet
'
curled upwardly where it presses
grain surface at 31. The surface of the grain
the top of said wall, and a base unit having a
beveled marginal ?ange, cementing the top unit
to 'the base unit,
grain lip to
said wall and to the top and outer edge of said
?ange as a cover ?ap therefor, thereby forming
a receding welt shoulder and a two-ply inseam
?ange below said shoulder.
5. A method of making two-unit welting,
which consists in dividing a grain leather ?llet
by forming an inclined cut in the
lateral cut adjacent its grain surface,
and a vertical cut through the grain surface re-'
platform is skived off as indicated at 38 to pro
mote from the edges of the ?llet, the angle be
vide a ?esh surface for ?rm adhesion of top
tween said inclined and lateral cuts being obtuse,
unit 39 to base unit 4!).
‘ '
60 thereby to provide a top unit having a grain deck,
Other variations of the methods and resulting
and undercut ?esh wall and a grain lip project
products herein illustrated and described may
ing from the top of said wall, and‘ a base unit
be practiced while preserving the features which
having a marginal ?ange of less thickness than
contribute to the ease or economy of manufac
the body of said unit, inverting the 'base unit,
turing two-unit waiting, or to the durable shape .
and lasting appearance of shoes made with such
'welting.
'
i
I1.claim:
A method of making two-unit welting,
which consists in dividing a grain leather ?llet
by forming an inclined cut in the ?esh body of
'the ?llet and a lateral cut adjacent its grain sur
face, the angle between said cuts being obtuse,
thereby to provide a top unit having a grain deck,
an undercut ?esh wall and
a grain lip project- _,
'
75
ing from the top of said wall, and a base umt
cementing the top
‘
'
and cementing said grain lip to said wall
the‘ marginal ?ange of the inverted
the top of
'
7
base as a cover ?ap therefor, thereby forming a
receding welt shoulder and an inseam ?ange
below said shoulder, the bottom of the ?ange be
ing disposed in a plane appreciably above the
plane of the bottom vof said base unit.
WILLIAM C. VIZARD.
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