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Патент USA US3027587

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April 3, 1962
c. F. BATCHELDER EFAL
3,027,578
QUARTER-'GAUGING LAST AND PROCESS
Filed March 11, 1960
INVENTORS
CHARLES F. BATCHELDER
&
BY JEROME A. RUBICO
MW l/rawvézali
ATTOR NEYS
United States Patent 0 ice
1
3,927,578
Patented Apr. 3, 1962
1
2
3,027,578
shoulder provides a positive control and visual indica
tion or check determining that the upper is in its proper
position on the last at all times during the operations
of pulling over the toe of the upper, side lasting, heel
seat nailing, etc. This feature is of especial value to the
side laster who has the ?nal responsibility of establishing
QUARTER-GAUGING LAST AND PROCESS
Charles F. Batchelder, Milton, and Jerome A. Ruhico,
Boston, Mass, assignors to Batchehler Rubico, Inc.,
Boston, Mass, a corporation of Massachusetts
Filed Mar. 11, 1960, Ser. No. 14,435
1 Claim. (Cl. 12-136)
the relative heights of the upper on the inside and out
side of theankle, and of maintaining the reversed uni
This invention comprises a new and improved last for
formity of the left and right shoes of every pair.
use in the manufacture of shoes designed to facilitate 10 The shouldered top portion of the heel or counter sec
more precise manufacture of more comfortable shoes,
tion of the last can be formed as an integral part of
with savings of time and cost in their production and
the last structure at the time of its manufacture, or it
elimination of rejects. The invention includes also the
novel process of shoemaking advantageously practiced by
employing our new last.
can be formed by attaching to a last a cap or band of
suitable material such as leather, ?bre board, plastic or
15' the like.
In any case the underside of the shoulder, or
the projecting brim of the cap or band should be estab
that shoes to be comfortable must be made with the
lished at the designed height of the shoe upper as it
top edges of the uppers lower on the outside of the ankle
varies around the ankle portion. A new or existing last
than on the inside. This difference in heights, inside and
may be readily converted to a shouldered last by apply
outside, is required to avoid any possibility of the top 20 ing a band or layer of suitable material around its upper
edge of the counter portion of the upper cha?ng against
exterior portion. This attachment may be made perma—
the under side of the wearer’s foot at the ankle bone.
nent by nailing, cementing, etc., or it may be by releas
Shoe uppers are normally designed, cut and stitched
able means such as screws to permit adjustment of the
to conform to this principle, but all too often the de
height at any desired point. If the band is attached
signed relationship is lost in one and sometimes both
by screws or similar means through vertical slotted holes,
shoes of a pair in the shoemaking operations of assem
it may be removed, trimmed, replaced, or moved upward
bling and lasting. Our invention is directed towards the
or downward to adjust to the desired contour of the shoe
simpli?cation of the assembling operation, with positive
upper. A projection of one-eighth inch more or less
control of the positioning of the back or counter por
of the shoulder or brim has been found ample for normal
tion of the shoe upper during the critical operations from 30 shoemaking.
assembling through side lasting.
These and other features of the invention will be best
Because of the form of the human ankle, it is essential
In current shoemaking practice the positioning of the
understood and appreciated from the following descrip
heel portion of the upper on the last is performed by
tion of our improved shoemaking process and lasts used
the “assembler.” This operative must rely on his ex
in practicing it as shown in the accompanying drawings
perience, his eye, and his hands to achieve a result that 35 in which
from the nature of the operation cannot be uniform.
FIG. 1 is a view in elevation of a lasted shoe.
When the assembler has positioned the stitched upper
FIG. 2 is a cross sectional View on the line 2-2 of
on the last to a heel height correct in his judgment, he
FIG. 1 and on a larger scale.
drives a shoe nail or tack through the upper at or near
FIGS. 3-6 are fragmentary views in elevation indicat
the back seam, and another through the lasting margin 40 ing various modi?cations of the last.
of the upper into the heel end of an insole that has
been tacked to the last bottom. These tacks are intended
to hold the upper in position at the heel end of the shoe
during the subsequent operations and until the upper has
been side lasted or inseamed to the insole, when these
tacks are pulled. The repeated tacking or nailing through
the backseam into the narrow back ridge of the last
shortens the useful life of the last. The nail hole through
the backseam is also a permanent defect in the ?nished
shoe.
Our invention provides a means of increasing the pre
cision of shoemaking in the counter or ankle area, by
substituting a positive control gauge for a human judg
The last shown in FIG. 1 is of the conventional
divided last type having a rear or heel section 10 and a
forepart 11. The heel section of the last is provided
with an overhanging shoulder 12 projecting outwardly
from its smooth peripheral surface near the top of the
last and at a height in conformity to the designed height
of the counter portion upper to be lasted thereon. The
curvature of the shoulder 12 corresponds to the top line
of the counter portion of the upper 13. It varies height
wise from a maximum at the back seam, sloping some
what forwardly and with its overhanging edge lower
on the outside of the last as indicated in dotted lines.
In assembling the upper 13 upon the last, the top edge
ment. Its use will eliminate the need of nailing through
of
the upper is positively gauged by the assembler against
the backseam, and will save time and cost, and the risk
the
shoulder 12 and this leaves the lasting margin of
55
of shoe damage or personal injury inherent to the pro
the upper as projecting beyond the insole 14 which has
jecting nail head during the operations of pulling-over,
previously been tacked to the bottom of the last 10.
side lasting, heel seat nailing, inseam trimming, etc.
The upper is now lasted while held positively in the
The essential feature of our invention is the provision
gauged relation to the last as above explained. In FIG.
on the exterior or peripheral surface of the upper part
of the heel section of the last of a projection or shoulder, 60 2, the lasting margin 15 is shown as extending inwardly
over the insole 14 to which it is secured in. the heel seat
the overhanging lower edge of which controls the height
lasting operation by adhesive or tacks.
of the shoe upper in this area. The contour of this
In FIG. 1, the shoulder 12 is shown as being carved
projecting edge is made to coincide with the designed
height of the upper around the counter portion of the
or turned in the wood of the heel section 12 while in
shoe. In use, the assembler inserts the shouldered last
FIGS. 3—6 we have shown other mechanical means of
into the stitched upper and brings the top edge of the
securing like results. In FIG. 3, there is employed a
upper into contact with the shoulder. The tapered form
band 16 of leather or other ?exible material which is
of the heel portion of the last, with its bulging bottom,
folded in U-shaped formation and wrapped around the
keeps the upper from dropping down on the last, while
heel section 10 of the last, The band 10 is shown as
the shoulder keeps it from being forced upward. The 70 secured in place by nails 17 and it is understood that its
contact of the top edge of the shoe upper against the
lower edge is contoured so that its overhanging surface
3,027,678
3
4
?ts the top edge of the counter portion of the upper in
that the top edge of the quarter of the upper is gauged
by accessory means carried by the heel section of the last
so that the assembler is relieved of the exercise of judg
the same manner as shown in FIG. 1.
In FIG. 4, the heel section 10* is shown as ‘equipped
ment and has only to make sure that the top edge of the
with a U-shaped band 18 vertically slotted for purposes
of adjustment and secured in position by screws 19.
5 upper is located in the position indicated or positively de
termined by the con?guration of the last itself.
In FIG. 5, the cone of the heel section 20 of the last
Having thus disclosed our invention and described in
is reduced in height or lowered as compared to that shown
detail illustrative procedure for carrying it out, we claim
in the other ?gures and supplemented by a rearwardly
as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:
tapering block 21 secured by screws 22 to the top of the
A divided last having its cone reduced in height from
heel section. The block 21 is of the proper size to pro 10
normal and a block secured to the lowered top face of
ject outwardly about the smooth perhiphery of the last
the cone overhanging the peripheral walls of the heel sec
section 20 and so provide the desired pro?led overhang
tion and thus providing a U-shaped shoulder around the
ing rib or shoulder for gauging the position of the top edge
heel section for gauging the position of the top edge of
of the upper at the proper height for lasting.
In FIG. 6 the last section 10 is shown as provided with 15 the counter portion of an upper to be lasted thereon
a visual gauging band 23 formed by printing or coloring
References Cited in the ?le of this patent
the upper portion of the heel section with a sharply de
?ned design the lower edge of which again corresponds
UNITED STATES PATENTS
to the top edge of the counter portion of the upper. The
edge of the design need not be continuous but may be 20
depicted by ‘a broken line and, of course, a series of
closely spaced projections would be the equivalent of a
continuous gauging shoulder.
In all cases the shoemaking operation is the same in
1,947,246
1,985,310
1,991,386
Brauner et a1. _______ __ Feb. 13, 1934
Brauner et al. ________ __ Dec. 25, 1934
Gerencser ___________ __ Feb. 19, 1935
2,641,004
Whiting et al.- _- _______ __ June 8, 1953
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