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Патент USA US3039122

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June 19, 1962
"
.1. R. SUCHER
3,039,112
COLLAR AND LIKE STAYED CONSTRUCTION
,3 Sheets-Sheet 1
Original Filed June 10, 1950
INVE TOR
24f
ATTORNEY
3,039,112
June 19,
COLLAR AND LIKE
R_ STAYED CONSTRUCTION
Original Filed June 10, 1950
3 Sheets¢Sheet 2
l’révEu-rbR
BY
MATTORNEY
June 19, 1962
3,039,112
J. R. SUCHER
COLLAR AND LIKE‘STAYED CONSTRUCTION
Original Filed June 10, 1950
3 Sheets-Sheet 3
.15
l éENTOR
.' ATTORNEY
ice
3,%39,ll2
Patented June 19, 19-52
2
Speci?cally, I have discovered that the employment as
3,039,112
Joseph R. Sucher, Woodmen-e, N.Y., assignor to Emsig
Manufacturing Company, New York, N.Y., a partner
ship
COLLAR AND LIKE STAYED CONSTRUCTION
Original application June 10, 1950, Ser. No. 167,332, now
Patent No. 2,701,380, dated Feb. 15, 1955. Divided
and this application Jan. 7, I955, Ser. No. 480,371
1 Claim. (Cl. 2-132)
a stay of a normal water repellant, horny sheeted mate
rial which has relatively high water absorption charac
teristics, to become relatively limp, permits an un
restrained laundering operation and the subsequent iron
ing operations to be performed on the garment with the
stay retained therein, Without sacri?cing the desired
properties of horniness or stiffness of the stay when the
material combines the hereinbelow described character
10 istics.
Still more particularly, it is an object of my invention
This invention relates to the construction of garments
to provide a garment and stay which may hold the stay
employing stays, particularly shirt collars and more par
against displacement from the desired place once it is
ticularly to stays for employment in such garments and
combined with the garment, and which is characterized
which are normally subjected to laundering operations.
This application is a division of my application Serial 15 by (l) a horny quality for stiffening predetermined por
tions of the garment, and when laundered, absorbing suf
No. 167,332, ?led June 10, 1950, now Patent No.
ficient water and/ or laundering ?uids to become relatively
2,701,880, granted February 15, 1955, for Collar and
Like Stayed Construction.
limp, not to interfere with the laundering operations;
fortable, while distending predetermined portions of the
ing below scorching temperatures of the fabric, to restore
wrinkles and creases.
terial of low thickness with relation to the fabric it under
(2) which does not become tacky at temperatures below
Known to me is the employment of stays made from
spring metal and thermoplastic material, such as cellulose 20 scorching of the fabric, to permit repeated laundering
operations without uniting or integrating the plies to each
nitrate, cellulose acetate, which are formed into sheets,
other and diifusing the stay material into the fabric, tend
and ai?xed into a pocket formed in a collar, to leave the
ing to tear the plies; (3) which responds to heat for iron
major portion of the collar or garment soft and com
garment, such as the points, in a neat manner, free from 25 the original horny staying property; (4) providing a ma
Stays made of the above thermo
plastic materials, if left in the garment while subjected to
laundering operations, are calculated to resist the
laundering operations but do not resist temperatures em
ployed in ironing apparel, but become tacky and tend to
cement the layers of fabric to each other. Likewise, the
lies, to provide the requisite staying property without
marring the surface of the overlying layer by displaying
ridges when ironed with the stay in position.
'
Still more particularly it is an object of my invention
to provide a garment construction employing stays which
will permit employment of stays during manufacture
without uneconomical departure from commercial meth
position during laundering, to mar the goods.
ods for making these garments, while embodying features
Repeated laundering of garments, with the usual prac
tice of removing the stay, is accompanied by an accumula 35 permitting laundering of the garments with the stays em
bodied therein.
tion of starch in the pocket for the stay, to make replace
Sitll more particularly it is an object of my invention
ment of the original stay in the intended position within
to provide a stay for reinforcing articles of apparel which
the garment difficult.
will have all the advantages of removability from a gar
The use of the foregoing materials, which may be char
stay either breaks, creases or tears the garment, if left in
acterized as whalebone substitutes, has resulted in the de 40 ment and which will not adversely affect the garment if
left in it while subjected to normal laundering and iron
velopment of garments to receive the same which make
provision for removal of the stay before laundering, at
the risk of tearing or marring the garment if not so re
moved. Attempts to simulate, in a degree, the effect of
ing operations.
To attain these objects and such further objects as may
appear herein or be hereinafter pointed out, I make ref
starch in ironing garments by fusion processes are known 45 erence to the accompanying drawing forming a part here
to me, but these, as in the case of fusible stays, such as
of, in which——
cellulose acetate, bind the plies of fabric together during
ironing, eventually to weaken the fabric.
trating my invention;
FIGURE 1 is a fragmentary plan view of a collar illus
FIGURE 2 is a plan view of the stay embodied in the
I have discovered that mere durability during launder
ing of materials employed as stays, such for example as 50 garment in accordance with FIGURE 1;
FIGURE 3 is a magni?ed section taken on the line
metal strips, nitrocellulose foils or sheets, cellulose acetate
3—3 of FIGURE 1;
'
foils or sheets, which has been the objective heretofore
FIGURE 4 is a fragmentary plan view of a collar in
in the selection of materials for stays is a property to be
accordance with another embodiment of my invention;
avoided. I have discovered that by the employment of a
stay having a temporary condition of limpness during 55 FIGURE 5 is a plan view of a stay to be embodied
therein;
,
laundering and the property of absorbing water or the like
FIGURE 6 is a section taken on the line 6—6 of FIG
laundering ?uids to become reduced to a limp condition,
URE 4;
coupled with a property for restoration of stilfness or
FIGURE 7 is a plan view of a fragment of a collar
horniness under drying temperatures, will permit of a
collar construction which when dry, after ironing, has 60 in accordance with another embodiment of my inven
tion;
all the desirable attributes of a stayed garment, without
FIGURE 8 is a stay to be embodied therein;
sacri?cing any element of appearance, if initially con
FIGURE 9 is a magni?ed section taken on the line
structed as part of the garment or retained herein,
9-9‘ of FIGURE 7;
designedly or accidentally.
FIGURE 10 is a fragmentary plan view of a still fur
Speci?cally, my invention is predicated upon the dis
ther embodiment of my invention;
,
covery of a material which, when formed into sheets by
FIGURE 11 is a section taken on the line 11—11 of
moulding or extrusion in predetermined thickness, has the
FIGURE 10;
desired horny character of snap stiffness, to act as a stay
FIGURE 12 is a fragmentary plan view of a collar
but, because it absorbs water and other aqueous materials
used in laundering or cleaning garments, has been con 70 embodying another embodiment of my invention;
FIGURE 13 is a magni?ed section taken on the line
sidered objectionable for use wherever indiscriminate
13-13 of FIGURE 12;
ironing temperatures are to be employed.
3,039,112
FIGURE 14 is a perspective view of the plies combined
with the stay before turning.
FIGURE 15 is a fragmentary perspective view of a
collar and stay showing the plies and stay of another
embodiment of my invention;
FIGURE 16 is a plan view of the stay to be embodied
in the assembly shown in FIGURE 15;
FIGURE 17 is a fragmentary perspective view of a
collar and stay showing the plies and stay of still another
embodiment;
FIGURE 18 is a plan view of the stay to be embodied
in the assembly shown in FIGURE 17.
My invention, in summary, resides in the provision of
a stay which has the requisite horny characteristic of re
silient snap stiffness, i.e. stiffness to distend the garment
and give it a neat appearance; absorbs water and becomes
limp to permit laundering operations to be carried out
without tearing the fabric with which it is combined;
may be permanently retained in the garment and resists
ironing temperatures tending to laminate or unify the
plies with which it is combined; does not weaken when
ironed yet responds to restoration to the initially stiff con
with some relation to the spacing between the rows of
stitches 16 and 18 and the penetrating point of these
stitches through the plies forming the pocket 17, so that
the pocket is distended and the darts 27 enter the plies
between the stitches, and engage the same to prevent
accidental displacement, and urge the edge 24 into en
gagement with the bottom wall 20. Where the stay 23
is made with the engaging edges as described, standard
collar construction practices may be followed as with
those permitting removable stays. However, laundering
will not dislodge the stay from position, and upon being
subjected to the pressing or ironing operations, the rela
tively limp stay, even though creased in laundering, may
be restored to horny stiffness. This present operation
may be carried out without leaving marring ridges where
a thickness of stay is employed as hereinafter described.
Honing temperatures up to those which will scorch cotton
or wool may be employed, without rendering the stay
tacky, to disperse it in the super?cies of the fabric and
laminate the plies, where made of the materials herein
after described.
In FIGURES 4, 5 and 6 I have shown another em
bodiment of my invention in which the stay 23a has an
dition; has requisite staying properties or stiffness without
end edge 24a, with the side edges 25a and 260: left smooth
being of such bulk as to form ridges when ironed in the
garment; the provision of a garment, such as a collar, 25 as in the use of commonly employed stays which are to
which has a stay incorporated in it as part of the collar
be removed from garments. The garment in the form of a
collar Ma is formed with a pocket 1711 between the back
producing operations, to provide the desired staying effect,
permitting laundering by becoming limp without tearing
the collar, and may undergo repeated laundering opera
tions without weakening the collar structure or stay.
More speci?cally, my invention resides in embodying
a nylon stay, removably or permanently, in a collar at
layer 15a and the liner layer 14o. A slotted portion 19a,
spaced from the stitch line 22a, permits insertion of the
stay therethrough. The slots 19a being spaced from the
stitch line and the end 24b of the stay being extended
to the fold line of the collar, accidental displacement
predetermined portions to be stayed, and to undergo laun
dering operations without harmful effects by reason of
is avoided in normal use. The utility of this form of
construction will be described in connection with the
the absorption of water, to render the stays soft or resil 35 embodiments hereinafter referred to.
iently limp when wet, and reverting to its original form
In FIGURES 7, 8 and 9 a still further embodiment of
or horny, stiffened condition when dry, and during nor
my invention is illustrated wherein the collar 11b is
mal ironing of the garment exhibiting no adhesive tend
formed with a stay pocket 1715, as in the ?rst embodiment
encies. By way of further de?ning the terms “soft or
described by me. In this form of construction, a stay
resiliently limp” as used herein, it is contemplated to
embrace the condition that under aqueous laundering
operations of a shirt having a nylon collar stay in ac
cordance with the teachings of the present invention, the
stay is deformable and yields with the shirt fabric so as
not to pierce the fabric. '_
_
In the drawing there is‘ illustrated a fragment of a
neckband 10 of a shirt, to which is sewn a collar 11 com
prising the facing ply 12, the back ply 13, the liner 14,
which composite is sewn together by the peripheral row
of stitches 15 for the three plies and with the row of
stitches 16 uniting the back ply and lining, to form the
stay pocket 17, and then turned to the obverse side and
united by the row of border stitches 18, leaving an open
entrance end 19 and an abutment wall 2% adjacent the
collar point 21. The mouth 19 may be ?nished by a
seam to lie adjacent the fold line of the collar band, in
which event a stay may be inserted in the pocket 17
provided at each corner after the collar and shirt to which
23b is provided having the side edges thereof smooth as
in the embodiment illustrated in FIGURE 5. The end
24c is formed with a slot 214d, providing bifurcations or
?ngers 24c. In the embodiment illustrated in FIGURE
7, the collar may be provided with a stay pocket 17b nor
45 mally employed for removable stays illustrated in FIG
URES 1 and 4. The rear ply 13b is formed with a layer
terminating into an edge 1%, forming an entrance to the
pocket to receive the stay 23b. The plies comprising the
back ply and lining ply 1412 are supplied before turning
the collar, with tacking stitches 28‘, 29‘ and 30, to provide
loops 31 which may be engaged by the ?ngers 24c, previ
ously described, spanning the through stitch 29‘, to pre
vent displacement of the stay when it has been pushed
into the pocket, passed the entrance 1% so that the edge
24,‘ ‘abuts the pocket adjacent the bottom wall 20‘. Dis
placement of the stay is thereby prevented.
In the embodiment illustrated in FIGURE 10, I show
a collar 11c whose back ply 13c and lining p-ly 140 are
joined to the face ply 12c in the normal way in making
it is applied is completed. The mouth 19 may be closed
by the row of stitches 22 for attaching the collar to the 60 collars, before attachment to the band, where three plies
of fabric are employed. At this stage, a stay strip 230
band, in which event the stay may be incorporated before
is inserted and the stay is tacked in corner engaging posi
the collar making operations are completed and then the
tion by the rows of stitches 32, after applying the plies
collar operations of attaching the collar to the neckband
with the usual peripheral stitch 33. The composite then
may be accomplished.
Where the stay is inserted after the collar is com 65 permits turning of the collar to position the face ply to
lie to one side of the liner ply 14c and the row of border
pleted, I may employ a form of stay which is not re
stitches 34 is ‘applied. The stay strip 230 is thereby in
moved or displaced in the laundering operations, n'otwith
corporated into the garment during the manufacturing
standing the slit 19 not being closed by stitching. In this‘
process.
‘
form of construction I provide a water repellent, horny
The width of the stay strip in this embodiment may
stay 23, deformable by water, of the material hereinafter 70
be extended to permit the staying action with a rela
to be described, having an angular forward edge 24 con
tively thinner form of stay material as herein employed
forming to the end 20 of the stay pocket 17 previously
so that instead of relying upon the distending force of a
described. The edges 25 and 26 are formed with barbs
narrow strip of stiffener material a more extensive width
27, whose points are directed away from the edge 24.
These barbs, serrations or saw teeth are spaced apart 75 may be employed of a lesser gauge.
3,039,112
6
In the embodiment illustrated in FIGURES 12 to 14,
there is illustrated a collar 11d whereby the strip of stay
material 23d is united to the collar during the same stitch
in or may be removably incorporated therein, as the
taste of the wearer may dictate. However, in each in
stance the stay may be retained in the collar assembly to
ing operation employed for uniting the plies to each other.
undergo the laundering operations, including ironing, to
As shown in FIGURE 14, the collar plies are arranged
to position the liner ply ‘35 to one side of the facing ma
restore the assembly to its original condition, with the
terial 36, with the rear face ply 37 overlying the facing
ply 36. When the edges of these plies are co-terminous,
the row of stitches 38 is passed through the three plies
and the overlying stay strip 23d, to unite the plies and
stay at the same operation. Thereupon, in turning the
collar a relationship of the parts is secured as shown in
bene?ts heretofore emphasized.
It will be observed that by the various constructions
described, normal collar making procedure may be fol
lowed, to provide a stay which may be removably in
cluded in the assembly as illustrated in FIGURES 1 to
9, 17 and 18, or permanently included, as illustrated in
FIGURES 10 to 16, as part of the shirt making procedure,
adding little or no additional cost to the usual fabricating
process and in no way interfering with such prior routine
FIGURE 13, with the seam forming the edge of the
collar.
procedural practices in making collars with removable
With wool shirts of heavy bodied shirting fabric, a
stays.
row of border stitches 39 may be passed through the
The material which I employ is nylon, extruded or
plies 36, 35, 37 and the stay 23d. The row of border
cast to a thickness ranging from .010 to .015 for shirting
stitches 39 may, however, be omitted as the peripheral
materials such as percale or broadcloth. For heavier
edge 23e of the stay which is closely adjacent to the row
of stitches 38 will hold the collar stretched by the stay 20 shirting stock, such as employed in wool or ?annel shirts,
the thickness of the sheets may be as high as .025.
2303.
Widths of from 5A6" and greater may be employed. For
In the embodiment illustrated in FIGURES 15 and 16,
other garments, a relationship of stay size and thickness
there is shown a collar lle wherein the strip of stay ma
may vary with the fabric employed.
terial 213]‘ is united to the collar before attachment of the
The nylon which I prefer to use is known in the trade
collar to the collar brand or shirt. As shown in FIGURE
as FM10001, which has a melting point of approxi
15, the collar plies are arranged to position the liner ply
mately 507° F. The nylon FM3001 and FM3003, of a
35a to one side of the facing material 3611, with the rear
melting point of 455° F. may likewise be employed in a
face ply 37a overlying the liner ply after turning in the
measure, although not preferred as much as FM10001.
normal way. The rear face ply 37a adjacent the edge
40 is spaced from the fold line 41 at an angle to provide
The material chosen has a tensile strength of 10,530
a spaced edge 42 running ‘diagonally over the liner ply
pounds at 77° F., a stiffness characteristic of a modulus
35a. Rows of stitches 43-43 de?ne a pocket having a
of elasticity above 130,000 pounds per square inch and
mouth portion 44. Through this mouth there is extended
preferably about 325,000 pounds per square inch; a ?ex
the stay 23]‘ whose angularly pointed edge 45 conforms
ural strength of 8,000 to 13,000 pounds per square inch
congruently to the collar point 46. Its rear edge 47 is
and higher, and a water absorption factor of 1.5%, pref
extended to become exposed adjacent the edge 42. A
erably not in excess of 2.3%, and a minimum of .44%
perforation 48 is arranged to receive a tacking stitch 49
for the less desirable limit; a stiffness or horny property
passing through the ply 35a. This tacking stitch may
of from 290,000 to 152,000 pounds per square inch at
be applied after the collar is turned and before the edge
77° F.
41 is af?xed to the shirt or to the collar band, if such is 40
The material is further characterized by being suscep
employed. Thereafter, the edge 41 is at?xed to the shirt
tible of quick drying at ironing temperatures at or
or collar band by the usual procedure.
below scorching temperatures for the fabric, Without ex
The tacking stitch as described permanently retains the
hibiting any tack or deterioration in strength by repeated
stay 23]‘ in the collar for laundering operations, as previ
moistening and hot ironing. Drying under the ironing
ously described in connection with the prior embodiments. 45 temperature below that which would scorch the fabric
Should the user ?nd it undesirable to employ a stay
and with the incident pressure will restore the strip from
in the shirt that he purchases, he may sever the tacking
the wet condition or with absorbed water to cause a de
stitch 49 to permit removal or sever the stay by a scissor
gree of limpness, to the horny springiness and snap, with
cut 49a shown by the dotted line. The severance of the
out tack or penetration of the fabric with which the stay
tacking stitch or by a slit likewise permits a selection of 50 is combined.
use of the collar with or without a stay.
Any creases which may have been formed in the stay
In the embodiment illustrated in FIGURES 17 and 18,
by reason of the laundering process are removed by
a similar arrangement is shown with regard to the collar
the hot ironing operation which is applied to the fabric,
structure as shown in FIGURE 15. In this embodiment,
likewise, to remove the creases from the stay as well as
however, the stay 23g is formed adjacent its rearmost 55 to reestablish the horny springiness of the original, dry
end 4701 with a tongue 48a having a lobe 50, laterally di
rected in the path of the reentrance slot 51, to form a dis
placed mouth 52. The position of the tongue 48a with
regard to the edge 42 is calculated to be such that it is re
tained within the pocket de?ned by the rows of stitches
43-43. A tacking stitch 49b is applied to pass through
stay.
_
In general, the thickness of the nylon is chosen with
regard to the fabric with which the stay is combined.
Thus, a thickness of .010 to .015 is employed with broad
cloth or percale shirting material in that under tempera
tures normally employed for ironing such shirtings, there
the plies 35a and 37a after the collar is turned and the
will not result any discernible groove or ridge caused by
stay 23g is slid into position.
the edge of the stay, whereas with thicker shirtings, such
The loop thus formed
through the layers acts as an anchor for the engagement
as wool or ?annels, a thicker stay may be employed, with
of the tongue 48a, holding the stay against accidental dis 65 out evidencing ridges in ironing the composite.
placement once the stay has been incorporated in the
The term “nylon” as employed herein is the generic
collar, and may be used in permanent form when the
term for any long-chain synthetic polymeric amide which
collar undergoes the laundering operations, including
has recurring amide groups as an integral part of the
washing and ironing, as previously described. However,
main polymer chain, and which is capable of being
the open mouth 42 of the slot permits of the removal of 70 formed into a ?lament in which the structural elements
the stay by backing the lobe 50 into the pocket, to dis
are oriented in the direction of the axis, the basic con
engage the tongue from the tacking stitch 4%.
stituent of which is made under United States Patents No.
By the constructions described, I have provided a com
2,071,250 issued February 16, 1937 and Carothers No.
bination collar and stay in which the stay is permanently
2,130,523 issued September 20, 1938.
incorporated in the collar, temporarily incorporated there 75 For convenience of reference, the nylon stay sheet as
3,039,112
7
8
herein contemplated is intended to include nylon in solid
dry stiffness, and non-tacky delarninating properties after
sheet form, and Will be so referred to in the claim to dis
ironing, of the order of those of nylon FM10001.
tinguish from the Woven, ?lamentary fabric which may be
made from related compounds of nylon. By “solid” as
used herein, it is intended to cover the hereindescribed
cast or extruded sheeted material, as contrasted with the
woven arrangement of mono?laments or yarns of such
nylon.
Having thus described my invention and illustrated its
use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters
Patent is:
A shirt collar made of a plurality of fabric plies,
stitches through at least a pair of said plies joining the
plies to each other, a stay through which a row of such
stitches is directed to form a permanent assembly, said
stay consisting of a sheet of a thickness of from .010‘ to
.025”, having the stiffness characteristics of temporary
limpness during laundering, and restorable to its original
References Cited in the ?le of this patent
UNITED STATES PATENTS
1,270,673
Van Decar __________ __ June 25, 1918
1,782,000
Collins ______________ __ Nov. 18, 1930
1,832,930
1,969,928
2,268,616
Gray et al. __________ __ Nov. 24, 1931
Haven ______________ __ Aug. 14, 1934
Peters ________________ __ Jan. 6, 1942
2,309,729
2,500,910
Gordon ______________ __ Feb. 2, 1943
Cohn ______________ __ Mar. 14, 1950
2,500,911
2,560,157
Cohn ______________ __ Mar. 14, 1950
Cohn ______________ __ July 10, 1951
2,676,324
Johnson ____________ __' Apr. 27, 1954
2,701,880
Sucher ______________ __ Feb. 15, 1955
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