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Патент USA US3050888

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Aug. 28, 1962
3,050,876
J. H. GROSSMAN
EASILY LASTED MOCCASIN CONSTRUCTION
Filed' April 20, 1962
2 Sheets-Sheet 1
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INVENÍOR
Jérome Il, Grossman
BY
ATTORNEY
Aug. 28, 1962
J. H. GRossMAN
3,050,876
EASILY LASTED MoccAsIN CONSTRUCTION
Filed April 20, 1962
2 Sheets-Sheet 2
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INVENTOR
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3,050,876
EASILY LASTRE) MGCCASIN CIENS'I'RÍIC'IIÜN
Jerome H. Grossman, Bangor, Maine, assignor to Penob
scot Shoe Company, Gld rlïown, Maine, a corporation
of Maine
3,65%,875
Patented Aug. 28, 1962
Y
Filed Apr. 20, 1952, Ser. N . ISSWSd
4 Claims. (Cl. Bti-11)
This invention relates generally to shoes, and is par
ticularly concerned with shoes of the moccasin type.
In Older, and more conventional forms of moccasin
A primary object of the present invention is to satisfy
the aforesaid need, and provide a moccasin incorporat
ing components which can be machine sewn into fixed
relation with one another, but in such a manner as to
permit adequate shaping and adjustment of the compo
nents so that they can be brought close and snug to the
last ‘by means other than shrinkage.
More specifically,
it is an object of the present invention to provide in a
moccasin, an upper and sole portion comprising a blank
10 including a pair of connected elongated segments sym
to form the moccasin must be carried out by hand
sewing. Because of the increased expense in labor, as
metrical about the medial transverse axis of the blank,
which segments include toe, shank, and heel portions
constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe,
shank, and heel portions of the upper and sole portion,
well as the time consuming requirements in performing
hand operations, suggestions have previously been made
gether by machine, they provide a sole portion having a
as to the manner in which moccasin-type shoes can be
longitudinal seam therein extending from the toe por
type shoes, certain joining operations of the parts used
and which segments are so shaped that when joined to
formed from components adapted to be joined together
tion to and within the shank portion, and an opening
by machine stitching operations. While such prior sug
extending `from the shank portion to and within the heel
gestions have afforded certain advantages, they have also 20 portion so as lto allow for adjustment during the lasting
presented certain disadvantages.
operation. Of course, consistent with this object, the
In the formation of moccasin-type shoes which can be
invention contemplates the provision of an upper and
sole portion as aforesaid, which is readily adapted to re
nized that it is preferable to use a blank for rforming an
ceive and have attached thereto a plug, a backstay, an
upper and sole portion, which blank includes a pair of 25 insole, an outsole, a heel, and suitable pads and stiñ
connected elongated segments symmetrical about the me
eners which complete the moccasin and provide a piece
dial transverse axis of the blank. The segments include
of footwear which is attractive in appearance, and
fabricated by machine stitching operations, it is recog
toe, shank, and heel portions constituting respectively op
posite sections of the toe, shank, and heel portions of
durable in use.
the upper and sole portion of the iinal moccasin formed
by the blank. The plug or front top section of the toe
area of the final moccasin can -be easily stitched to the
aforesaid blank, and a saddle can be easily applied there
over to yield the desired functional construction, as -well
and arrangement of the various component parts of a
shoe constructed in accordance herewith, or more par-v
ticularly of an upper and sole portion for a moccasin
In particular, with a `formation or construction of the
FIGURE 4 is a plan view of a plug adapted to be
The invention lies in the combination, construction,
constructed in accordance herewith. The invention will
be better understood, and objects other than those spe
as an attractive appearance. Moreover, conventional 35 ciiically set forth above will become apparent, when
insoles, outsoles, backstays, stilfeners, and the like can
consideration is given to the following detailed descrip-V
be easily secured to a formed blank such as described
tion. Such description refers to `the annexed drawings
above to provide the final product.
presenting a preferred and illustrative embodiment of
the invention. In the drawings:
Consistent with the foregoing, and in an attempt toV
present an easily constructed moccasin, it has been sug 40
FIGURE 1 is a plan view of the preferred form of
gested that the blank be formed with «bottom edges hav
primary or main blank used in accordance with the pres
ing a particular shape which permits the inward folding
ent invention for formation of a moccasin constructed
of the bottom portions of the blank to bring the bottom
in accordance herewith;
edges into abutting contact along a seam extending lon
FIGURE 2 is a plan view of a rear side section adapted
gitudinally of the moccasin formed thereby from the tip 45 to be attached to the blank of FIGURE 1, _whereby to
of the toe to the extremity of the heel. Such a construccomplete the primary blank and form the same into a pair
tion allows for the insertion of the plug, or joining of the
of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the
plug to the blank, and the subsequent joining of the bot
medial transverse axis thereof;
tom edges of the rblank along the sole seam without caus
FIGURE 3 is a plan View of a backstay and kickplate
ing any puckering or shirring with reconciliation of un 50 respectively joined together in accordance herewith and
evenness of adjacent or mating edge portions. However,
adapted to be stitched in position in covering relation to
such a construction is inherently subject to certain limi-`
the heel wall of amoccasin constructed in accordance
tations with respect to shaping.
herewith;
type discussed in the immediately preceding paragraph,
55 ystitched to a primary blank constructed in accordance
it is diihcult if not impossible in most instances to bring
herewith so as to form the cover shield or plate for the
the upper close and snug to the last for subsequent oper
ations thereon. Any adjustment in shaping must be ac
toe section of the ultimate moccasin;
FIGURE 5 is a plan view of a binding strip adapted
complished by shrinkage, as opposed to positive forming
to be used in completing a moccasin constructed in ac
due to the fixed relation of the components established 60 cordance herewith;
by the longitudinal sole seam incorporated in such a
FIGURE 6 is a perspective view of a ñnished moccasin
construction which extends from the toe throughout the
constructed in accordance with the present invention;
FIGURE 7 is a perspective view, partially broken away,
and partially in section, of the moccasin shown in FIG
ated that although the particular type of moccasin con~ 65 URE `6, FIGURE 7 presenting preferred details of con
struction discussed above aifords substantial advantage
struction;
sole to the heel.
From the foregoing discussion, it should be appreci
from the production standpoint, it is inherently subject
to certain limitations as to shaping, and these limitations
tend to offset and overcome the possible advantages.
Thus, there remains a need for a moccasin construction
which affords the advantages discussed, but is not subject
to the limitations of prior suggestions.
FIGURE 8 is a sectional view taken on the line 8-8
of FIGURE 6 and presenting the details of construction
in the heel portion of a moccasin constructed in accord
0 ance herewith;
FIGURE 9 is a perspective view of an upper and ysole
portion formed in accordance herewith, and turned on
3,050,876
3
its side, all before having the outsole and heel añixed
though generally straight, may bel very slightly concaved,
thereto; and
is disposed at an obtuse angle gb'. The angle qs’ as shown
in FIGURE l, is less than the'obtuse angley (p formed
between the medial longitudinal axis ’of the segment 20
,
FIGURE l0 is a fragmentary detailed view of the heel
Wall of a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith,
FIGURE 10 showing the preferred disposition and cou
pling of the backstay and kickplate hereof.
Ul
and the medial transverse axis A-A.
~
The edge 4t) of the Vsegment 20 opposite the edge k50 alsoV
has two edge. portions designated respectively -by 42 and
' It is to be understood at the outset of this detailed
. description that the invention lies in the formation of
an upper and sole portion of a moccasin from a blank Y
comprising a »pair of connected elongated segments,
44. The edge portion 42 extends from the axisA4A and .
is appreciably convex as 'it continuouslyextends into the
central portion of the segment 29, or shank Aportion there
of. The other edge portionV 44 ofthe elongate edgeV 40 is
inwardly oifset adjacent the edge portion> 42, but tapers
outwardly to the heel edge l24 of the segment 20.
whether integral or provided by separate parts.V vThe man
ner in which the invention is applied to a completed shoe
is set forth hereinbelow, but the details of the particular
sole, particular backstay, particular binding, and the like
As suggested above, the foregoing description of the
are discussed primarily for purposes of completeness, and
rnot to limit the application of _the invention to particular
segment 20 applies equallywell to the contour of the seg
ment 22. Thus, the edge portions and sectionsof Vthe seg
ment V22 have -been labeled with prime numerals corre
sponding to those used toV described the edges of the seg-V
forms of these more or less conventional elements.
Now, referring more specifically to the invention itself,
ment 20. As will be readily appreciated by those of ordi
Vit is to be initially understood that the blank shown in
FIGURE 2 forms what may be deemed an end section 20 nary skill in the art, the blank 2, as well as »the blank 10,
of the completed moccasin. This blank is designated by
are formed of leather, and other suitable leather'blanks,` '
the numeral 10, and the ultimate position thereof will be
appreciated Yby reference to FIGURE 6. Initially, how
such as the binding blank 50, the -.backstay, blank 52, the
kickplate blank 54, and the plug blank 56 are also formed
from leather. The blanks 2 and 10 may be provided with»
ever,'the blank 10 has the edge 12 thereof sewn to the
edge 14 of the primary blank 2 shown in FIGURE l.
` score lines such as designated by the numeral 48 in FIG
Preferably, the edge 12 is disposed in underlying relation
URES l and 2 to permit theV ready folding and shaping
to the edge 14, and a'double line of stitches 4such as »
thereof.
'
shown at 16 in FIGURE 6 is used for joining the edge 12`
- Preferably the backstay blank 52 and kickplate lblank 54
are joined together in a separate initial operation to pro
to the "edge 14. Once this initial operation is complete,
the blank provided hereby for forming an upper and lsole 30 vide a composite blank- such as shown in FIGURE 3.
For this purpose, as shown in FIGURE l0, the lower >edge
portion of a moccasin is symmetrical about the medial
56 of the backstay blank 52 is bent outwardly, and the
transverse axis thereof. Specifically, 4such blank com
upper edge 58 of the kickplate blank 54 is also bent out
prises a pair of connected elongated segments generally
wardly. A series of loop stitches such as 64 are passed
designated by the numerals 20 and 22. The segment 20
is formed integrally and as a one piece unit with the for 35 between the outwardly bent edges, and the. edges are scored
ward end portion of the segment 22. The blank 10 of
FIGURE 2 isi coupled with `such integral one piece unit,
as shown in phantom in FIGURE l, and thus completes
the segment 22 so that the segments 20 and 22 are sym
metrical about the axis A-A.
,
As explained more fully below, each of the segments
or hot-die marked so as to produce an illusion of hand
stitching at 66 as shown in FIGURE 6.y n
The edge portions 32 and 32’ of the Iblank 2 are shaped
‘ to be joined with the generally pear-shaped forward edge
40 70 of the plug 56. Ifdesired, the plug 56 can be skived, as
conventionak in spaced close parallel relation to the edgeY
70 so as yto readily permit the joining between such edge
and the edgerportions 3G and 32. This joining is carried
stituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank,
out by means of stitches, or a machine stitching opera
and ?heel portions of the upper and sole portion of the
ultimate moccasin. Each segment 2t) and 22 is of afull 45 tion in a conventional manner, and the projecting edges
which result after the stitching along the line 73, as shown
length of the moccasin to be formed and terminates at
a heel edge 24.
in FIGURE 6, are hot-die marked or scored so as to re
semble hand stitching as at 74. A marking dart or the
. Y The medial longitudinal axis L through each of the seg
like can be provided at the apex vof the edge 70 of plug 56
ments is disposed at an obtuse angle with respect to the
to permit ready and proper alignment of such apex with the
axis A.-A. The obtuse angle is designated by qb in
axis A--A of the blank 2, if desired. Such marking dart is
FIGURE 1, and it lwill be noted that the same is ap
conventional, V»and While the same may ‘be employed at
~ preciably less than 135°, and preferably is of the order
various locations to facilitate fabrication, merely this one
of 105°. By virtue of the aforesaid symmetry, the de
20 and 22 includes a toe,.shank, and heel portion con
scription of the segment 20 corresponds substantially iden
example has been presented herein.
After the plug 56 has its edge 70 thereof joined to the
tically with Vany description which can be made of the 55
edge portions 32 and 32’ of the blank 2, then the Wing
segment 22, as far as general contour is concerned, and
flanges 76 and 77 thereof are stitched to the blank 2 in
thus for purposes of simplicitythe contour of the segment
20 only is described hereinbelow.
t
» overlying relation to the areas shown in plantom in FIG
URE 1 and designated by the numerals 76’ and 77’. It
The upper elongate edge 30 of the segment 2,0 has two
edge portions 32 and 34. The edge portion 32 is of a 60 will be observed that with the construction as joined in the
manner described above, the material of the primary blank ~
gently convex contour and extends from the medial trans
above the mean longitudinal axis L of the segments there
verse axis A-A along the toe portion of the »segment
of, when folded lat the center, provides upstanding side
20--i'.e.'along that portion of the segment Ywhich will
walls 3 and 4 as shown in FIGURES 6 and 7, which up-`
ultimately form the toe portion of the moccasin. The
i other edge portion 34 of the edge 30 extends across the 65 standing walls extend for the full length of the ñnished
moccasin. These walls support at the forward end there
shank and heel portions of the segment 20 to the heel
edge 24 thereof. The edge portion 34 is generally
straight and inwardly offset from the edge portion 32.
The term “oifsetj’ as used in this specification, and the
ofthe plug 56 in substantially horizontal position.
Prior to performing the stitching operation whereby the
edge 70 of the plug 56, is joined with the edge portions 32
appended claims, refers to an ,interruption-in continuous 70 and 32’ of the blank 2, the edges may be provided, as con
contour. Thus, the'edge portion 34 can be regarded
ventional, withfa suitable cement. Moreover, the stitches
used are of conventional machine type having loops there
as inwardly oñset'from'the edge portion 32, “inwardly
offset” meaning disposed closer at the junction between
of which pierce from the plug to the vamp or blank in
the edge portions to the medial axis L.
spaced relation to the edges so as to provide a raised
The medial axis L’ of the edge portion 34, which al 75 n'dge and a smooth interior joint. It is this raised ridge '
3,050,876
5
6
which is scored or hot-die marked and designated by the
170. Moreover, the outsole preferably carries a heel such
numeral 74 in FIGURE 6.
as l174, and »the formed blank has stitched therein an in
sole such as designated by the numeral 175 in FIGURE 8.
>
After performing the preceding operations, the heel
edges 24 and 24' are brought into abutting contact, and a
The stitching extends peripherally in adjacent spaced re
row of zigzag stitches 100 (FIGURE 8) or a double row
lation to the edges of the sole portion 130 as is conven
thereof, is used to join the heel edge 24 with the heel edge
24’ in abutting relation. Of course, the respective edges
are coextensive, in accordance with conventional practice.
After performing this operation, the combined blank
formed by the backstay lank 52 and the kickplate blank
54 is stitched in overlying relation to the heel seam 102
formed by the joining of the respective heel edges 24 and
24'. This combined blank is designated by the numeral
tional. The ultimate product, moreover, preferably has
a sock lining such'as 180 therein in overlying relation to
the insole 175.
The particular manner of securing the outsole in place,
the insole in place, the use of the shank stiffener, and
‘the use of a sock lining are conventional, and the ñnal
formation of the shoe from an upper and sole portion
constructed in accordance herewith can be accomplished,
106 and is shown as being stitched in position by means
as suggested, in accordance with well-known techniques.
of stitches 10S in FIGURE 6. Upon completion of this 15 Further discussion thereof appears unnecessary.
operation, the binding strip blank 50 is folded over the
top edge portions 34 and 34’ as shown in FIGURES 6 and
7, and stitched in position in conventional manner by
It should be noted, however, that all of the sewing
operations can be performed before slip lasting and with~
out preliminary heel lasting and toe lasting. Thus, by
virtue of the provision of the construction provided here
means of the line of stitching 51. Thereupon, a suitable
saddle such as designated by the numeral 110 in FIGURE 20 by, a machine sewn moccasin type shoe can easily be
6 is fixed across the plug 56 in conventional position, and
fabricated, and can be readily shaped and adjusted dur-ing
secured in place by means of stitches such as designated by
the lasting operations. There is no need to rely on shrink
the numeral 112.
_
age for adjustment, and thus a superior quality ñnal
The series of steps described above completes the up
product can be obtained.
per, and can be easily performed by machine stitching, as 25
After reading the foregoing detailed description, it
should be readily apparent to those skilled in the art.
should be appreciated that the objects set forth at the
After such formation, the slip-lasting operation is per
outset of the present speciñcation have been successfully
formed to shape the moccasin top and to bring certain .
achieved. Accordingly, what is claimed is:
lower edge portions into either abutting or spaced rela
l. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion compris
tion. More specifically, during the slip-lasting operation, 30 ing a blank including a pair of connected elongated seg
the edge portion 42 is folded inwardly and brought into
ments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis of
abutting contact with the edge portion 42’. By virtue of
said blank, each of said segments including toe, shank and
the convex contour of these edge portions, a seam 12d is
formed therebetween, which seam, as shown in FIGURES
heel portions constituting respectively opposite sections
of the toe, shank and heel portions of said upper and sole
7 and 9, extends medially and longitudinally of the sole 35 portion, each segment being of a full lengt-h of the moc
portion of the formed blank which is designated by the
casin to be formed and terminating at a heel edge, the
numeral 139 in FIGURE 9. Now, it is particularly im
medial longitudinal axis through each of said segments
portant to note that when the edges 42 and 42’ are brought
ybein-g disposed at an obtuse angle ¢ with respect to said
into abutting Contact, this does not result in bringing the
edge portions 44 and 44’ into abutting contact. How 40 medial transverse axis of appreciably less than 135°, one
elongate edge of each segment having two edge portions,
ever, the edge portions 42 and 42', when brought into
one edge portion of said one elongate edge being gently
abutting contact, are secured together )by means of loop
convex and extending from said medial' transverse axis
stitches 132, as shown in FIGURE 7. Thus, a fixed seam
'along the toe portion of said segment, the other edge
extends along the sole portion 136 from the tip of the toe
designated as 140 to a point 144 between the ends of the 45 portion of said one elongate edge extending across said
shank and heel portions of the segment to the heel edge
shank portion of the blank, or the ultimate shoe.
thereof, said other edge portion of said one elongate
After folding of the blank as described and formation
edge being generally straight and inwardly offset from
of the seam by the stitches 132, by virtue of the shaping
said
one edge portion of said one elongate edge, the medial
of the lower edge portions 44 and 44', there exists an
opening in the sole portion 132, which opening is axially 50 axis of said other edge portion of said one elongate
edge being disposed at an obtuse angle ¢’ less than said
aligned with the seam 132. The opening is generally
obtuse angle gb, the opposite elongate edge of each seg
designated by the numeral 150 and has a generally pointed
ment also having two edge portions, one edge portion of
forward end 151, a generally rectangular central section
said opposite elongate edge extending from said medial
152, and a generally circular heel section 154. The gen
erally circular heel section is in the heel portion of the 55 transverse axis appreciably convexly into the shank por
tion of the segment, the other edge portion of said oppo
formed blank, and the generally rectangular section is in
site elongate edge being inwardly offset adjacent said one
the shank portion of the formed blank.
edge portion of said opposite elongate edge and tapering
It is importan-t to understand that the shaping of the
outwardly to said heel edge `of the segment, said blank
blank, and the joining in the manner aforesaid provides
being
folded with said one edge portion of each of said `
60
in accordance with the invention the opening 150. This
opposite edges in abutting contact along a sole seam ex
opening has substantially less width than the sole portion
and is essential to proper shaping because it permits bring- ‘
tending longitudinally and medially of said folded blank,
and with said heel edges in abutting contact along a heel
ing the formed blank into close and snug contact with
sea-m, said blank being stitched along said sole seam and
the last for the lasting operations. The essence of the
invention lies in forming the blank with this opening, in 65 said heel seam to maintain said blank as folded, said
other edge portions of each of said opposite edges de
other words, because it is this opening which overcomes
ñning, in said blank as folded, side edges of an elongate
the problems heretofore faced-by prior workers in the
opening in said sole portion extending along said shank
art attempting to provide a machine stitched moccasin
portion to and within said heel portion thereof, said
type shoe.
The remainder of the components of the finished shoe 70 elongate opening being axially aligned with said sole
are secured to the formed blank providing -an upper and
sole portion as described above, 'in any suitable conven
tional manner. Preferably, a shank stiifener 172, of
wood or other suitable material, is interposed between
seam `and having a mean width substantially less than
the mean width of said sole portion.
2. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion `as defined
in claim l and further including a plug stitched to said
the sole portion 138 of the formed blank, and the outsole 75 segments along said one edge portion of said one elongate
3,050,876
8
edge, and a backstay stitched to said segments in overlying relation to said heel seam.
_
4. In a moccasin, yan upper and sole portion as defined
in claim 1 wherein one of said segments comprises two
3. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion as deñned
in claim l wherein said other edge portion of said oppo-
connected separate pieces. '
site ledge of each of said segments is shaped to provide 5
in said blank as rfolded an elongate openingVhav-ing a-
.
2’645’042
generally oiroulm rear section in said yheel portion of said 10’ ' ’
sole portion.
Y
References Ciîe? ill the me 0f this Patent
UNITED STATES PATENTS
*Y generally pointed `forward end adjacent said sole seam, a
generally rectangular section extending rearwardly there
ofracross said shank portion of said solev portion, and a
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Woliî ________ _`_r__r___„ Mar. 14, 1961
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