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Патент USA US3088435

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May 7, 1963
Filed June 14, 1961
4 Sheets-Sheet l
L/oyd G. /‘7///@/*
By his A?O/“NGy
May 7, 1963
Filed June 14, 1961
4 Sheefs-Sheet 2
May 7, 1963
|_. cs. MILLER
Filed June 14, 1961
4 Sheets-Sheet 3
May 7, 1963
Filed June 14, 1961
4 Sheets-Sheet 4
United States Patent 0
Lioyd G. Miller, Beverly, Mass, assignor to United Shoe
Machinery Corporation, Boston, Mass, a corporation
of New Jersey
Filed June 14, 1961, Ser. No. 117,057
6 Claims. (Cl. 112-58)
Patented May 7., 1963
in its work penetrating position, thereafter drawing ad
ditional thread past a tension wheel, in Which machine
there is provided a cam for actuating the take-up to apply
a heavy tension to the thread at the same time the looper
is laying the thread in the needle hook, and to give up
thread by movement of the take-up in a reverse direction
before the threaded needle hook is retracted into the work,
thereby preventing heavy tension from being applied to
the thread after looping. If a heavy tension is applied
The present invention relates to improvements in Good
year inseam sewing machines of the curved hook needle
type for attaching welts to lasted shoe uppers and sole
members, such as disclosed in United States Letters Pat
plete thread retraction from the upper and rib of a shoe
ent No. 2,900,933, granted August 25, 1959, upon appli
in the ?rst stitch of a new seam, and possibly of oc
in a sewing cycle at the same time as the looping opera
tion there is danger of needle de?ection, likelihood of com
casional stranding generally. In this feature of improve
States Letters Patent, Serial No. 840,148, ?led September 15 ment the difficulties referred to above are eliminated,
while permitting use of an improved form of thread ?nger
15, 1959, upon application of the present inventor and
capable of measuring thread by movement along the line
Robert W. Bradley.
of a seam in a direction opposite to that of Work feed and
In the inseam sewing machine of the prior patent and
to give up thread before the take~up tightens each stitch.
application the leading end of a welt is sewn with a chain
In this feature it is possible to construct the thread ?nger
stitch seam to a shoe upper and to an upstanding rib on
cation of James P. Carter and an application for United
an insole by presenting the end of the welt to the stitch
forming devices of the machine in such a way that the
curved hook needle penetrates the upper and rib to the
with a hooked arm extending above the needle axis, pro
viding maximum possible space beneath the needle axis
exclusion of the welt during the ?rst stitch forming cycle
of operation in a seam, and, thereafter, in the succeeding
cycle the needle penetrates the welt, in addition to the
mon practice. In ‘applying this feature of the invention
to the illustrated machine the thread ?nger, as in the
machine of the prior application, swings about an axis
parallel to a plane de?ned by the curvature of the needle
but the hooked arm of the thread ?nger extends forward
ly above and downwardly in front of the needle axis
instead of rearwardly beneath the needle axis where inter
other parts, thereby forming a secure binding across the
leading end of the welt and preventing its displacement
as the ?nal end of the Welt is brought into close ?tting
engagement with the leading end at the end of the seam.
Additional stitches are then inserted to overlap those at
the leading welt end. To insure that the initial stitches
in the leading end of the welt will not be pulled out of
the shoe by excessive thread tension and thus be in
effective to hold the leading welt end in position, the
machine of the application is provided with limited slack
thread measuring means actuated at the end of a seam
to withdraw a supply of thread .and to give up the with
for entry of most surplus upper materials met in com
ference may occur between it and the surplus upper ma
terial within the arc of needle curvature.
These and other features of the invention, as herein
after described and claimed, will readily be understood by
those skilled in the art from the following detailed speci
?cation, taken in connection with the accompanying draw
ings, in which:
FIG. 1 is a detail view in right side elevation of portions
of a shoe inseam sewing machine embodying the features
drawn thread at the beginning of a new seam. While the
thread measuring means thus described is effective for 40 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a sectional detail view on an enlarged scale
the purposes intended, there are certain instances where
of certain of the stitch forming and work engaging devices
nonuniform results occasionally occur.
shown in FIG. 1, together with portions of a shoe being
It is an object of the present invention to improve the
operated upon, looking from the right side of the machine
operation of a Goodyear welt inseam sewing machine of
the curved hook needle type, in which a looper and, if 45 and indicating the parts in positions assumed at the start
of a new seam;
required, a thread ?nger act also to lay the sewing thread
FIG. 3 is a similar view of the same parts showing
within the hook of the needle and a take-up controls the
the formation of a stitch after a main sewing shaft of
thread utilized by the other stitch forming devices in such
the machine has been rotated through 75° from its
a way that there is substantially no tendency for non
uniform results or improper insertion of stitches, especial 50 stopped position of FIG. 2;
FIG. 4 is a diagrammatic plan view taken on a further
ly at the beginning of a new seam. Further objects of the
enlarged scale and partly broken away to‘ illustrate the
invention are to improve the construction and mode of
positions of the looper, a thread ?nger and a needle
operation of the thread ?nger employed in the prior ma
shown in FIG. 3;
chine and to provide greater space within the arc of
‘FIG. 5 is a sectional detail view on a reduced scale
needle curvature, wherein the surplus margin of ‘a shoe
of the thread ?nger, a rockshaft on which it is mounted
upper may project upwardly further than heretofore with
and a bearing for the rockshaft;
out obstructing the sewing, so that no separate pre
FIG. 6 is an enlarged plan view, partly in section, show
ing the operation ‘of the stitch forming and work engag
not require a special upper pretrimrning operation before 60 ing devices in the machine of FIG. 1, after the main sew
ing shaft has been rotated 131° from its stopped posi
sewing but also is of more simple construction which
enables greater facility of assembly, repair and adjustment
FIG. 7 is a detail view on a further enlarged scale of
after manufacture than prior machines of the same type.
the needle, thread ?nger and looper of FIG. 6, looking
Certain features of the invention consistent with the
from the left of the machine;
objects noted reside in a machine for manufacturing shoes
trimming operation is required. Still other objects of the
invention are to provide a machine which not only does
with a welt ‘attached, wherein the curved hook needle is
mounted to swing forwardly and rearwardly through its
FIG. 8 is a plan sectional view on the same scale as
FIG. 6 illustrating the positions of the parts in a prior
machine not embodying the features ‘of the present in
arc of curvature to enter the upper of a shoe and to
penetrate the sewing rib of an insole, the needle looper 70 vention, taken after the main sewing shaft has rotated
acts to lay the thread in the needle hook and the take-up
150°, indicating the results of improper tensioning on
tightens each stitch around the shank of the needle while
the thread in forming a seam, the needle being illustrated
needle, thread ?nger and looper in the prior machine,
(FIG. 1) against which each stitch is set in the work, a
channel guide 14 for supporting the rib on the insole
against the penetrating thrust of the needle and other en
gaging and manipulating devices for the thread, indicated
taken at the beginning of a needle looping operation, and
illustrating the effect of improper thread tensioning in
referred to.
in solid lines de?ected from its proper position, shown in
broken lines;
FIG. 9 is a detail plan view on an enlarged scale of the
at 15, as disclosed more fully in the application above
The needle 4 is rotatably mounted for oscillation to
penetrate the‘sewing rib on the insole 2 and is slidably
mounted for bodily movement in the direction of work
FIG. 10 is a detail view on an enlarged scale looking
from the left side of the prior machine with the parts 10 feed to act with the channel guide, on the one hand, and
the awl on the other hand, to impart a continuous and
shown in positions assumed at 170° of rotation of the
even feed of the work, as disclosed in United States Let
sewing shaft from stopped position, indicating a second
ters Patent No. 1,920,998, granted August 8, 1933, upon
step in the ultimate breakage of the thread;
application of A. R. Merrill. In the present machine
FIG. 11 is a plan view of the same parts shown in FIG.
the needle is mounted for oscillation between removable
9 in the 170° position;
cheek plates 16 and 13 secured at opposite sides of an
FIGS. 12 to 16, inclusive, are sectional views on a re
enclosing frame 20. The needle oscillates about a hori
duced scale showing successive positions of the same
stretching isolated ?bers of the thread in a step which
leads to subsequent stranding and breakage;
zontal axis of a needle supporting shaft 22 passing through
parts with the sewing shaft at 0", 75°, 131°, 150°, and
a needle carrying segment 24 (FIG. 2) as in the patent
170°, the plane of the section being taken somewhat dif
ferently from that illustrated in FIGS. 9 and 11, at right 20 and application above identi?ed. The cheek plates 16
and 18 are formed with two sets of bearings 26 and 28,
angles to the lower end of the looper and illustrating the
within the lowermost set 26 of which the shaft 22 is slid—
proper operation of the looper in laying the thread in the
able and rotatable, and within the uppermost set 28 of
needle in accordance with the present invention; and
which shaft portions of an awl segment or carrier 30 are
FIG. 17 is a detail front view on a reduced scale of
the looper and an adjustable mounting for it on the ma 25 similarly mounted. The needle and awl segments, thus
briefly described, constitute separately operable slides for
feeding the work in'timed relation to the other stitch
The machine illustrated in the drawings is a Good
forming operations, the thread ?nger 8 and the channel
year welt shoe inseam sewing machine, such as that dis
guide 14 moving with the needle slide to assure proper
closed in the patent and application above identi?ed and
is provided with the usual stitch forming, feeding, and 30 relationships at all times with the needle regardless of the
guiding devices for imparting a continuous feeding move
feeding movements.
The take-up 10, as in prior inseam sewing machines
ment to the shoe parts and is capable of operating en
is actuated in one direction to impart a stitch tightening or
tirely around the marginal portion of a last supported
Goodyear welt shoe. In the drawings the upper is in
setting action to the thread extending to a seam in each
dicated at 1, and a ribbed insole at 2. For convenience 35 sewing cycle while he needle is in engagement with the
in easy visibility the shoe is presented in a conventional
work and the loop of the previously inserted stitch sur
manner to the stitch forming devices in bottom upper
most position. The machine is equipped with a welt
rounds the shank of the needle While in its most forward
severing knife (not shown) mounted for movement to
tion to give up thread to the stitch forming devices as
the looper is passing the thread about the hooked end
of the needle, preliminary to drawing a new loop of thread
through the work. Thereafter, the take-up in prior ma
chines continues to give up thread until the threaded
needle hook has passedcompletely through the work with
the new loop of thread. Eventually the take-up reaches
.the end of itsithread yielding stroke in a sewing cycle,
ward and from a welt 3 as it passes through suitable guid
ing devices, automatic feeler controlled mechanism (also
not shown) being provided for actuating the’knife as the
leading end of the welt already attached to the shoe ap
proaches the sewing point a second time. To cause the
feeler to engage the welt accurately and the leading and
?nal ends of the‘welt to be matched automatically with
a smooth, inconspicuous joint the ?nal end is secured
rigidly to the upper by stitches inserted across the joint
and brought into overlapping relation with those in
position. The take-up is actuated in the opposite direc
where it remains until a new cycle is started.
After the
take-up reaches the limit of its thread giving up stroke
the threaded needle also approaches the end of its rear
serted at the beginning of the seam.
50 ward or back stroke, drawing the loop of thread with it
It has been found that inaccurate contact of the lead
and imparting a further tension to the thread in the stitch
ing welt end with the .feeler may result from inserting
already formed. Both, when the take-up tensions the
loose stitches at the beginning of a seam, as shown in
thread about the needle and when the needle reaches the
FIG. 8, which stitches do not bind the leading end of the
end of its back stroke, additional thread utilized in the
welt into ?rm engagement with the other shoe parts. 55 formation of each stitch is drawn past the tension wheel
Even with the provision in the prior machine of a thread
12 to provide a uniform tension. However, while the
end holder arranged to maintain tension on the thread
take-up tensions the thread a heavy force is required to
during the formation of the ?rst stitch in a seam, loose
rotate the tension wheel by reason of pressure ‘from a
stitches occasionally occur. Under certain conditions
coil spring brake band 32 (FIG. 1) wound about a drum
there is a tendency for the end of the thread in starting 60 integral with the tension ‘wheel and engaged at one end
a new seam‘ to be pulled loose from the thread end holder,
so that control of the thread is lost and the thread end
may then'be drawn freely by the needle through the
work, leavingthe ?rst stitches loose and ineffective in
with a ?xed member on the machine frame and at its
other end with a pin 34 mounted in a lever comprising
the take-up, the take-up lever oscillating about a ?xed
shaft ‘36, as more fully described in United States Letters
their holding power. As a result nonuniform engage 65
Patent No. 2,562,175, granted July 31, 1951, upon appli
ment of the feeler by the welt persists and causes inac‘
curate severance of the ?nal end and an improper joint
between the ends.
cation of F. E. Cole and No. 2,707,926, granted May 10,
1955, upon application of O. R. Haas.
As the needle is retracting with its loop of thread at the
end of its back stroke the force of the coil spring brake
Besides the needle, indicated at 4 as being of the curved
hook type,-the other stitch forming devices of the ma 70
32 is substantially relieved and the tension on the thread
chine include a curved awl 5 (FIGS. 2 and 3), a tubular
is greatly reduced. The purpose for this reduction in ten
needlellooper 6 mounted infront of the needle to lay
sion on the thread is to enable the needle to draw thread
thread in the hook of the needle, a thread measuring ?n
from the work more readily through its hook, where the
ger or hook 8, acting to provide thread for one side of
is closely ‘con?ned frictionally without overstrain
each needle loop, a take-up 10, a thread tension wheel 12
ing the needle or thread, than is possible when the take
up is acting alone. Also, while the take-up is acting the
vention the take-up actuating groove 40 is cut with a
more rapidly increasing radius than heretofore between
the 75° and the 131° positions of the sewing shaft, so
that the take-up will give up thread faster than required
by the looper and thread ?nger, thus providing a sub
stitch than when the needle draws thread, so that a heavier
stantial amount ‘of slack thread during the looping op
braking pressure of the brake band 32 is required for an
eration, as shown in FIGS. 6 and 14. By providing a
equivalent eifective tension in the stitch while the take-up
substantial amount of slack thread, de?ection of the
is taking up thread. Also, the operation of the illustrated
needle, as shown in the full lines of FIG. 8, is avoided
machine is such that there is a very brief interval only
in each sewing cycle when the thread passing from the 10 and the needle maintains its normal dotted line single
plane position of FIG. 8 under all conditions.
take-up to the last formed stitch in the work is free of
After the looper ?rst bends the thread about the needle
abrupt bends about the needle and the thread ?nger.
(FIG. 15) the needle starts to retract and after retracting
Since much of the tension imparted to the thread extend
a short distance a reapplication of tension is applied to
ing to the last formed stitch is lost by frictional action
on the parts including the loop surrounding the needle 15 the thread by the take-up to cause the thread to slide
along the needle securely into the needle hook (FIG.
about which the thread is bent, the time in a sewing cycle
16). Shortly thereafter the thread ?nger starts to give
during which a well controlled tightening tension on a
up its measured thread. At the 150° position the thread
stitch is exerted by the take-up is extremely limited.
tensioning movement of the take-up serves to hold the
Referring to FIG. 1, the lever for the take-up 10 is
illustrated as being actuated by a roll 38 engaging a groove 20 thread securely within the needle hook and eventually
to disengage the thread entirely from the thread ?nger,
40‘ in a cam 42 secured by a key 44 to the main sewing
so that as the threaded needle continues its retraction
shaft, indicated at 46. Taking the starting point of a
a reliable control is exercised on the thread, all without
sewing cycle as the position at which the machine is
applying a heavy stress to the thread ?nger. After
stopped and at which the needle comes to rest out of
engagement with the work at the end of a seam, the shape 25 the 170° position (FIG. 16) the take-up again starts to
give up thread to the retracting needle until the 222°
of the cam groove 40 from the 360° or 0° position to the
position of the cam 42 is reached. At this point in the
75° position causes each loop of thread running from a
’ loop of thread surrounding the needle requires greater
tension to take out the slack between it and the previous
rotation of the cam 42 the groove 40 provides a dwell
while the needle continues its retraction nearly to the 255°
the work and an additional supply of thread to be with
drawn past the tension wheel 12. The positions of the 30 position of the cam shaft 46. The needle reaches the
end of its retracting stroke at 255° and the previously
parts at this time are illustrated in FIG. 4, wherein the
previous stitch to be tightened about the needle engaging
thread 15 is shown extending without appreciable bending
through the looper and, thence through an obtuse angle
formed stitch then is tightened still further by slippage
of the threads on each other; thus, the cycle is com
pleted in the same manner as in prior machines, the
to the previously formed stitch.
In prior machines the take-up starts ‘giving up thread 35 dwell in the cam groove 40‘ from the 255° to the 360°
position maintaining the tension on the thread during
immediately after the 75 ° position of the sewing shaft
transfer of work feed from the needle slide to the awl
is reached by forming the take-up actuating cam groove
40 in a manner similar to that illustrated in broken
By actuating the take-up to provide slack thread during
lines 48 (FIG. 1) with a continuously increasing radius
of curvature, so as to impart a steady thread giving up 40 the looping operation, as is readily apparent from FIG.
6, no difficulty is experienced through lack of control
movement to the take-up. When the take-up reaches
the thread or possibility of escape of the thread from
its maximum thread giving up position shown in FIG.
the thread measuring ?nger 8 for the reason that the
1, it remains in this position until the end of the
slack is kept less in amount than required to unhook
sewing cycle at the 360° position of the cam is reached.
Along the portion of the cam groove from 75 ° to 131° 45 the thread from the thread ?nger. Also, the time during
which the slack occurs is so short that no di?iculty from
as indicated by broken lines 48, the cam roll of the prior
this cause is likely. Furthermore, since the thread is
machine causes the take-up to give up thread at a rate
retensioned lightly as it is drawn into the needle hook
slightly less than required by the looper and thread ?nger
there is no possibility for the thread to become disen
in laying the thread in the needle hook. It has always
been considered essential for a well balanced timing sys 50 gaged from the hook of the thread ?nger at this critical
point in any sewing cycle.
tem to actuate the looper and thread ?nger with suf
With the release of tension in the thread during the
?cient speed to cause a substantial degree of tension to be
looping operation the reapplication of tension directly
imparted to the thread thus given up by the take-up.
thereafter, according to the present invention, provides a
The tension applied to the thread ordinarily is su?icient to
stress the thread ?nger severely and to cause the needle 55 number of advantages in addition to that of avoiding
thread or needle breakage. The ?rst stitch of the seam
to be de?ected slightly out of its normal plane from the
shown in FIG. 6 is tightened with reliability under all
broken line position of FIG. 8 to the full line position.
conditions against the leading end of the welt ?rst at
In so doing the thread 15 is ?attened against the needle
tached to the shoe to hold it securely in position as it
by combined tension and sliding movement while the
approaches the knife actuating feeler, and less strain
thread is entering the needle hook. In ?attening the
thread a few strands in the thread may be separated from
the ‘others (FIG. 9). Before the thread enters the
hook of the needle, the separated strands become elon
gated by tension while the remainder slip into the needle
hook (FIGS. 10 and 11). Thereafter, the elongated
strands will project loosely from the needle hook suf
?ciently to escape the barb of the needle, so that when
the needle hook is drawn into the work the separated
strands clog the needle perforation until complete thread
needs to be applied to the thread ?nger, so that a new
and improved form of thread ?nger may be utilized, or in
some instances it is possible that the use of the thread
?nger may be eliminated entirely. ‘By eliminating the
thread ?nger entirely greater simpli?cation of construc
tion about the sewing point is possible in the machine.
As in the prior inseam sewing machine a thread end
holder engages the thread with a frictional grip similar
to that employed in United States Letters Patent No.
70 2,492,147, granted December 27, 1949, upon application
of Dana P. Hay, so that as the ?rst stitch of a seam is be
ing inserted the end of the thread is drawn by the needle
beyond its elastic limit while being de?ected by thread
toward the work along a broken line path 49 of FIG. 6.
tension, causing early fatigue in the material of the
The thread end holder, as shown in FIGS. 6 and 8, is
needle and necessity for frequent needle replacement.
According to an important feature of the present in 75 indicated at 50 and comprises a pair of yielding gripping
breakage occurs.
Another dif?culty with such an ar
rangement is that the needle itself may be bent repeatedly
jaws to which is attached a thread cutter consisting ofia
‘knife 52. The gripping jaws 50 are formed by a pair of
horizontal plates having ?aring ends between which the
thread is drawn before engaging the knife. The jaws
and knife are secured directly to the machine frame 20 I
vabove the sewing point by clamping screws, one of which
‘is shown at 54, passing through the jaws and the knife
into the frame. After entry of the thread into the jaws
and severance of the thread at the end of a seam, all that
is necessary for starting a new seam is to introduce a shoe
into sewing position and to set the machine in operation.
During the ?rst retracting stroke of the threaded needle
in the prior machine the end of the thread is withdrawn
from the holder.
To prevent the end of the thread from being pulled
\ entirely through the work, as along a broken line path 56
‘The thread ?nger .oftheprior machine is formed in
tegrally with the'lower endof a rockshaft, such as that
.shown at 60 in- FIGS.~3 and 5. The rockshaft in the prior
‘machine is also mounted for rotation in a carrier, similar
tothat shown herein at.62, and the rockshaft of the prior
machine extends downwardly below the level of the needle
shaft 22.
The prior thread ?nger has a hooked arm ex
‘ tending radially forwardly and beneath the shaft 22 within
-the circle of needle curvature into co-acting relationship
with the looper. Because less tension is exerted on the
' thread during the looping operation in the present ma
chine, it is no longer necessary to form the thread ?nger
. arm integrally with its rockshaft or to extend its arm exlcu
sively in a radial direction from the rockshaft entirely be
neath the needle supporting shaft in order that a rigid
construction may be retained. Accordingly, the space
formerly occupied by the thread ?nger arm is now made
‘of FIG. 8, during the formation of the ?rst stitch. of a
available for entry of the surplus marginal portions of
scam the operation of the take-up, according to the present
shoe upper.
invention, applies no further tension to the thread until
In the present machine the thread ?nger rockshafti60
it is laid securely within the‘ needle hook during its sec 20
terminates above the level of the needle shaft 22 and has
ond work penetrating stroke. After the thread is laid in
its right angle arm extending forwardly above and down
the needle hook it is immediately drawn into the work
wardly in front of the needle to embrace it within the
by the succeeding retracting stroke of the needle. At the
angle. Because of the right angle formation it is neces
time the threaded needle hook enters the work the amount
sary to disconnect the arm from the rockshaft during
of friction impressed on the thread limits the sliding
assembly or disassembly, or otherwise to remove the nee
movement in the needle hook and the possibility of fur
dle shaft 22. To enable the thread ?nger to be discon
ther substantial displacement of the thread end. By actu
nected readily from the rockshaft 60 without removal of
ating the take-up while threading the needle to give up a
the needle shaft thepresent thread ?nger is secured to
limited amount of thread in each sewing cycle, the applica
the rockshaft by a screw 64 passing loosely through the
tion of excessive tension to the thread at a critical time
thread ?nger arm and into threaded engagement with
between the formation of the ?rst and second stitches is,
the lower end of the rockshaft. ‘The rockshaft 60 also
therefore, avoided. Thus, in a marked degree the likeli
hood of withdrawal of thread through the work in starting
a new seam along the broken line 56, as in FIG. 8, is pre
vented and reliable formation of a tight ?rst stitch, as in
FIG. 6, is insured.
‘has a diametrical rib ?tting within a transverse groove
on the thread ?nger arm (FIG. 3) to prevent relative
rotation between the two. The thread ?nger arm be
yond the right angle terminates in an olfset hook of the
Without the use of a thread ?nger beneath the needle
shaft a still further improvement in clearance for the
surplus marginal upper material on a shoe is possible.
By increasing the radius of needle curvature, as herein
same formation as the hooked portion of the prior, whol
ly radial thread arm, the position of the rockshaft for
the thread ?nger being at that side of the plane de?ned
by the needle curvature in advance of the point of needle
illustrated, from 1%; of an inch commonly employed
heretofore to 1% inches, additional space is also made
available for surplus upper material. Even when it is
found necessary to utilize a thread ?nger the reduction in
The upper end of the rockshaft 60 is surrounded by a
collar 68 clamped to the rockshaft by a bolt 70 and
thread ?ngertin that machine.
The improved form of thread measuring ?nger S is best
shown in FIGS. 2, 3 and 5 and comprises a composite
construction with a right angle’58 (FIG. 3) avoiding the
the machine it is equipped with a welt guide 74, shown
in FIG. 2, and the looper is supported in an improved
mounting which is more conveniently adjustable than
provided with a ball headed projection surrounded by
tension applied to the thread. as a result of the take-up 45 a socket in a link 72 forming the usual operating con
nection for the thread ?nger. In other respects the ma
actuating mechanism herein disclosed, enables the use of
chine is-similar to that disclosed in the prior applica
a more intricate form of thread ?nger which still leaves
tions and patents referred to above, the channel guide‘14
the space inside the curvature of the needle clear for
being adjusted to a position on the carrier 62 lower than
entry of surplus marginal upper material. Such improved
form of thread ?nger would be impossible to use with the 50 in prior machines to compensate for the increased radi
us of‘ the needle. To assist further in the operation of
prior machine because of the great stress applied to the
necessity of a more rigid integral arm, as in the prior ma
The tubular looper mounting comprises a split perfo
The thread ?nger of the illustrated machine acts
rated block 76 engaged with the upper end of the looper
in substantially the same manner as in the machine of the
and secured to it by means of a clamp screw 78 (see
FIGS. 1, 2, 3, and 17). The split block 76 has a hori
prior applications and patents. In supplying thread to
the needle during each stitchforming cycle, as in the prior 60 zontally extending cylindrical portion at right angles to
the length of the looper, and is rotatably mounted in an
machine, the thread ?nger is mounted for movement with
opening in a second split perforated block 80 attached to
the needle slide to and fro in the line of feed to maintain
a support bar 86 by a tongue and groove connection
uniformly its proper operating position with relation to the
82. The connection 82 extends along the line of stitch
needle. The thread ?nger also is mounted to swing about
an axis parallel to the plane de?ned by the needle curva 65 ing at right angles .to the looper. To hold the block 80
and the bracket 86 together a clamp bolt 84 passes
ture through a thread measuring movement substantially
through an opening in the block 80 and through the for
in the line of feed across the plane of the needle and in
ward end of the support bar 86, which is constructed and
a direction opposite to that of work feed. The proper
arranged in the same manner as in ‘the prior machine.
length of thread thus will be measured by the thread ?nger
regardless of adjustments for variation in lengths of 70 To secure the block 76 from rotation on the block 80 the
block 80 has passing through it a clamp screw 88. By
stitch or changes in thickness of the material operated
loosening the clamp screw 78 the looper may‘ be moved
upon. To give up thread the thread ?nger moves in the
lengthwise along a line tangent to the arc of needle cur
direction of work feed before the take-up acts to tighten
vature in the block 76. Upon loosening the clamp screw
each loop surrounding the needle (FIG. 16). Thus, the
danger of overstressing the thread ?nger is avoided.
75 '88 the looper may be swung at its lower end toward and
from the needle support shaft 22, enabling adjustment
of the ‘lower end of the looper transversely to the plane
of the needle. In this way the looper may be alined
properly and accurately with the needle. Such alinement
is not only desirable to assist in manufacturing and main
tenance operations, but is of bene?t in the daily use of
the machine to avoid applying excessive tension to the
sewing thread and to the thread ?nger in accordance
with the bene?ts obtained from the improved take-up
actuating mechanism.
The nature and scope of the invention having been in
dicated and a machine embodying the several features of
to swing about an axis parallel to a plane de?ned by the
needle curvature at that side of the needle plane in ad
vance of the point of needle operation and formed with
a hooked arm extending above the needle axis to pro
vide space beneath the axis of the needle for entry of the
surplus marginal portions of shoe upper material.
4. A shoe inseam sewing machine, as in claim 3, where
in the hooked arm of the thread measuring ?nger ex
tends above and downwardly in front of the needle
5. A shoe inseam sewing machine, as in claim 4, in
which a rotatable rockshaft supports the thread measur~
ing ?nger and a disconnectable joint between the hooked
arm of the thread measuring ?nger and the rockshaft en
claimed is:
1. A shoe inseam sewing machine having a curved 15 ables assembly of the machine without removing the
needle shaft.
hook needle mounted for oscillation about a substantially
6. A shoe inseam sewing machine haping a curved
horizontal shaft to enter the upper of a shoe and to pene
hook needle mounted for oscillation to enter the upper
trate the sewing rib of an insole, a needle looper acting
of a shoe and to penetrate the sewing rib of an insole of
to lay thread in the book of the needle, a channel guide
to support the rib of the insole against the thrust of the 20 the shoe, a needle looper acting to lay thread in the hook
of the needle and a channel guide arranged to support
needle, a take-up for tightening the loop in each stitch
the rib of the insole against the thrust of the needle, in
surrounding the shank of the needle while engaging the
combination ‘with a looper mounting comprising a ‘block
work, and a tension wheel past which the thread is drawn
engaged 'with the upper end of the looper and formed
by the take-up in its tightening movement, in combina
tion with a cam for actuating the take-up while the loop 25 with a cylindrical portion at right angles to the length of
the looper, a second block through which passes the
er is laying thread in the needle hook to give up thread
cylindrical portion of the ?rst mentioned block, a support
faster than required by the looper before the threaded
bar for the second block, to which the second \block is
needle hook is retracted, thereby preventing deflection
attached by a tongue and groove connection, extending
of the needle during the action of the looper in laying
30 along the line of stitching, and clamp screws for securing
thread in the hook of the needle.
the blocks together on the support bar or enabling the
2. A shoe inseam sewing machine, as ‘in claim 1, in
looper to ‘be adjusted length-wise along a line tangent to
which there is provided a thread measuring ?nger mount
the arc of needle curvature in the block or to be swung
ed to swing about an axis parallel to a plane de?ned by
toward and ‘from the needle shaft, respectively for ad
the needle curvature at that side of the needle plane in
advance of the point of operation of the needle, to move 35 justing purposes.
in a direction opposite to that of work feed in measuring
References Cited in the ?le of this patent
thread and to give up thread to the needle before the
take-up acts to tighten each loop surrounding the needle.
3. A shoe inseam sewing machine having a curved
Hays _______________ __ May 17, 1910
the invention having been speci?cally described, what is
hook needle mounted for oscillation on a shaft to enter 40
the upper of a shoe presented in bottom uppermost posi
tion and to penetrate the sewing rib of an insole, a nee
dle looper mounted in front of the needle to lay thread
in the hook of the needle and a channel guide arranged
to support the sewing rig against the thrust of the needle, 45
in combination with a thread measuring ?nger mounted
Ballard _____________ .._ Mar. 24, 1914
Ashworth et al. _______ __ Aug. 1,
Cole ________________ .._ July 31,
Haas _____________ _..:__ May 10,
Carter _______________ __ Aug. 25,
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