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Патент USA US3095001

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June 25, 1963
F. M. SMITH‘
3,094,991
BRASSIERE
Filed July 14, 1961
2 Sheets-Sheet 1
45
'9 22
21
INVENTOR.
FRANEEE M. EJMITH
AT TURNEIY.
June 25, 1963
F. M. SMITH
3,094,991
BRASSIERE
Filed July 14, 1961
2 Sheets-Sheet 2
INVENTOR.
FRANDEE: M. SMITH
ATTORNEY
United States Patent 0 "
1
Patented June 25, 1963
2
use upon the wearer with the arms in normal downward
3,094,991
BRASSIERE
vFrances M. Smith, Bridgeport, Conn., assignor to The La
position, and showing in dotted lines the arrangement of
certain muscles; and
FIG. 8 is a perspective view similar to FIG. 7 and show
Resista Corset Company, Bridgeport, Conn., a corpo
ration of Connecticut
ing the arms in raised position.
Referring to the drawings and more particularly to
Filed July 1.4, 1961, Ser. No. 124,148
FIGS. 1 and 2, the brassiere, according to the exemplary
10 Claims. (Cl. 128—489)
embodiment of the invention illustrated therein, com
prises a pair of breast cups 10—10 each pre-shaped and
The present invention relates to brassieres, and has for
an object to provide a brassiere wherein the desired sup 10 consisting of an upper section 11 of suitable non-stretch
able or inelastic material, a pair of lower sections 12
porting and molding functions of the garment are ob
and 13, also of non-stretchable or inelastic material,
tained while at the same time free movement of the body
joined
together along a curved seam line 14 and con
may take place with the least amount of restraint com
nected at their upper edges along a curved seam line 15
patible with the comfort and well-being of the wearer.
In particular it is proposed to provide a brassiere in which 15 to the lower edge of the upper section ‘11. Each breast
cup is also partially formed by a portion of a two-way
its component parts are designed to provide the most
stretch elastic transition member 16 joined along a curved
effective accommodation to the muscular arrangement
seam line 17 to the outer edges of the upper and lower
and action of the female anatomy, to the end that while
sections 11 and 12, these outer edges being in a contin
the garment provides the desired support it will yield
to the muscular movements of the body during normal 20 uous arched line extending ‘from the upper edge of the
breast cup to its lower edge with the crown of the arch
arm movements without exerting injurious pressures and
outwardly of the center point of the breast cup and at a
restraints.
substantial distance inwardly from the periphery of the
While all of the various muscles of the chest, shoulder,
wearer’s breast, as clearly indicated in FIG; 3. The in
back and arms come into play during normal movements
of the body the principal muscle affected by the conven 25 ward upper edge 18 of the breast cup is suitably curved
in an upward and outward direction in relation to the
tional brassiere structure is the pectoralis major muscle
forward center line of the brassiere so that a substantially
which underlies the breast and is connected to the clavicle,
V-shaped space is provided between the two breast cups.
the sternum and certain ribs at its inner terminals and
The lower edge of each breast cup is convexly curved
to the upper arm within the deltoid furrow between the
downwardly along a substantially circular line, one ex
deltoid muscle and the biceps at its outer terminals. When
tremity of which is at the upper edge 18 while the other
the arm is in its normal lowered position the the pectoralis
extremity is at an intermediate point 19 of the lower edge
major muscle twists upon itself, and when the arm is
of the transition member 16, so that the outer marginal
extended or raised above the head its ?bres assume a
portion of the breast cup is formed by the portion of the
parallel position with the result that there is a two-direc
tional or rotational play of the muscle with a marked
transition member contiguous to the curved seam line 17
change in its surface contours and dimensions, particu
larly in the area traversed by the upper edge of the
brassiere extending between the forward and rearward
attachment points of the shoulder strap. The indiscrim
inate arrangement of yielding and unyielding areas in the
brassiere can result in lack of proper support, injurious
pressures and irritations to the muscles, riding up of the
cavely curved inner edge 20‘ for joining to the outer edges
and extending from the lower edge of the breast cup
to the upper edge 18.
As seen in FIG. 4 the transition member 16 has a con
of the breast cup sections 11 and 12, a convexly curved
lower edge portion 21 for joining to the curved lower
edge of the breast cup and a horizontal lower edge por
tion 22 extending from the intermediate point 19 to the
garment, surface wrinkling, edge gaping, and unsightly
outer edge of the transition member. The transition
bulging. The primary object of the inveniton is to pro
vide a ‘brassiere which effectually obviates these undesir 45 member is formed of di?erential two-way stretch elastic
material having its major direction of stretch parallel to
able conditions.
the horizontal lower edge portion 22 as indicated by the
Other objects and advantages will become apparent
arrow 23, its minor direction of stretch at right angles to
from a consideration of the following detailed description
the arrow 23 as indicated by the arrow 24, and a resulting
taken in connection with the accompanying drawings
wherein a satisfactory embodiment of the invention is 50 capability of stretching diagonally.
The outer elastic edge 25 of the transition member is
shown. However, it will be understood that the inven
concavely curved and is formed by folding a marginal
tion is not limited to the details disclosed but includes
hem 26 to the under side, and elastic facing tape 27
all such variations and modi?cations as fall within the
being secured over the hem \by zigzag stitching 28 having
spirit of the invention and the scope of the appended
the capability of stretching with the tape. A fully stretch~
55
claims.
able zone is thus provided along the outer edge 25. The
In the drawings:
outer edge 25 meets in a laterally outwardly directed apex
FIG. 1 is a front elevation of a brassiere according to
with
the outer end of the lower edge 22 and extends in
the invention, the same being shown in a flattened posi
a generally upwardly and inwardly inclined direction to
tion with the breast cups in their pre-shaped extended
60 the outer end of the elastic upper edge 29, the latter
position;
being inclined downwardly from the upper end of the
FIG. 2 is a rear elevation;
inner
edge 20 to the upper end of the outer edge 25 in
FIG. 3 is a vertical sectional view on an enlarged scale
the ?attened position of the transition member seen in
FIGS. 4 and 6. The edge 29 is formed by folding a
FIG. 4 is a top plan view on ‘an enlarged scale of the
marginal portion of the material to the under side to
65
left hand yieldable transition member disposed in the
provide a bias hem 30. The hem 30‘ is a secured at its
?attened position before assembly in the garment;
outer edge beneath the elastic tape 27, and in the assem
FIG. 5 is a transverse sectional view taken along the
bled relation in the garment its inner edge is secured by
the seam line 17. The folded down hem provides a
line S—5 of FIG. 4;
FIG. 6 is a bottom plan view of the yieldable transi 70 double thickness fully stretchable zone along the upper
taken along the line 3—3 of FIG. 1;
tion member shown in FIG. 4;
‘FIG. 7 is a perspective view showing the brassiere in
edge 29, thus constituting an elastic terminal portion or
extension of the upper edge 18 of the breast cup which
3,094,991
a)
meets in an upwardly directed apex with the outer edge
25, for a purpose presently to more fully appear.
The two breast cups are separated in the forward
center of the garment by a horizontally elastic front panel
31 preferably formed of two pieces of horizontally stretch
able elastic material s_ecured together along a central
vertical line by ladder- stitching 32, the upper portions
of its outer edges being secured by a line ofstitching 33
to the lower edges of the breast cups from the upper
edges 18 to a point inwardly spaced from the seam lines
14, where the lower portions of the outer edges extend
downwardly and inwardly in straight lines and are se
cured by stitching 34 to the inner ends of a pair of non
stretchable or inelastic band members 35. The lower
4
it is about 7 inches long. Of course, when the brassiere
is on the body the length of the edge zones are some
what greater than the minimum and during normal
movements of the wearer arev not stretched to the full
extent possible. A sector roughly half the width of the
elastic transition member 16 replaces what would in a
typical prior brassiere be a nonestretchable part of a
breast cup. The remainder of the elastic transition mem
ber replaces what would be a non-stretchable part of the
frame or body of such typical prior brassiere.
In the position of the brassiere upon the person of
wearer, as seen in FIGS. 7 and 8; the outer elastic taped
edge 25 of the transition member 16 traverses the pec
edge zone of the front panel is fully stretchable and is 15 toralis major muscle 48 in outwardly-spaced relation to
the outer contour of the breast and extends downwardly
formed by a folded under marginal hem covered by an
and rearwardly across the serratus (anterior) muscle 49
elastic tape 36 secured by zigzag stitching 3-7. The inelas
to the anchor point 39 which overlies the latissimus dorsi
tic band members 35 and the elastic panel 31 constitute
muscle 50 near its forward edge at the side of the body.
the frame or body of the brassiere.
The
pectoralis major ‘muscle twists upon itself near its
The lower edge of each band member 35 in the flat 20
connection
with the upper arm in the lowered position of
tened position of the garment as seen in FIGS. 1 and 2
is hemmed under andextends in a straight line in a down
the arm as seen in FIG. 7 and when the arm is raised as
seen in FIG. 8 it assumes a position with the ?bres in
wardly and outwardly inclined'direction from the center
generally
parallel relation. Its function is to draw the
panel, and the upper edge is shaped to conform to the
lower curved edges of the breast cups, and to the lower 25 arm forward and medially, rotate it inward, and lower it
when raised vertically. The serratus (anterior) muscle
edges 21 and 22 of the transition member where it is
functions to draw the'scapula forward or laterally, and
secured by the curved line ofv stitching 33 and by a hori
the latissimus dorsi'muscle functions to draw the arm
zontal line of stitching 38. The pointat which the outer
backward and medially, rotate it inward, and lower it
edge 25 of the transition member joins the upper edge
when raised vertically, working in this respect in con
of the band member is intermediate the length ofthe 30 junctionwith
the pectoralis major muscle. During this
band member and by virtue of the non-stretchability of
action the pectoralis major muscle has two-directional or
the band member constitutes a substantially ?xed anchor
rotational play with a marked change in itssurface con
point '39 which in the position of the garment upon the
tours and dimensions, one direction of play being sub
wearer is substantially at a midpoint of the side or flank
of the wearer, for a purpose presently to more fully 35 stantially in the direction in which the taped edge 25
traverses themuscle and the other direction of play being
appear. From the anchor point 39 an upper edge portion
substantially inthe direction of stretch of the upper edge
49 of each band member is hemmed under and extends
29
of the transition member through the pull of the
in a downwardly and outwardly inclined direction in
shoulder strap thereon.
substantial continuation ofv the outer edge 25 of the
By virtue of the two-directional and resultant diagonal
transition member as seen in the ?attened position of 40
stretch of the transition member its outer taped edge
FIGS. 1 and 2.
effectually accommodates itself to'the action of ‘the muscle
The outer or free ends of the band members 35 are
without exerting; injurious pressure or restraint thereon,
hemmed under and adapted to be yieldably connected at
while at the same time it remains in smooth,~snug engage
the ‘back of the wearer. For this purpose the outer end
of one band member is provided with [an elastic fastener 45 ment therewith. The yielding action of the taped edge
starts at ?xed anchor point 39 and is con?ned to the
strap 41 having a tab end 42 provided with a series of
distance between this point and 'the point of attachment
eye members 43 for connection with hooks 44 secured to
of the shoulder strap as indicated by the arrow 51, the
the outer end of the other band member. The front
panel 31 together with the band members 35 and the
latter point moving at the same time through the pull of
the shoulder strap and the stretch of the transition mem
50 ber along the upper edge 29 as indicated by the arrow
At each side of the garment a shoulder strap 45 is
52, so that the tape edge in effect swings about the anchor
connected at its forward end to the upper end of the
point 39 as a pivot as‘it yields longitudinally.
fastener strip 41 constitute a body encircling band.
outer edge 25 of the transition member adjacent the
upper edge 29 and in line with, the turned under hem
It'will be observed that vthe lower circumferential edge
of
the breast cup remains in a substantially ?xed position
39, and is connected at its rearward end by an elastic 55
on the body in surrounding relation to the lower and
tape 46 to the outer end of the upper edge portion 40
inner contour of the breast, and that the'transition mem
of the ‘band member. Thus the shoulder strap is yield
ber traverses the junction between the outer contour of
able at its forwardend by virtue of its connection with
the breast and the adjacent surface of the pectoralis major
the yieldable upper end portion of the transition mem
muscle where it emerges from the outer side of the breast,
ber and is yieldable at its rearward end by virtue of the
so that during the arm raising or other movements of the
elastic tape 46.
wearer
the transition member, which in part constitutes
The several non-stretchable seams and hems at the
the outer portion of the breast cup, provides a smooth
inner side of- the b-rassiere are covered in the conven
non-wrinkling transition between the non-stretchable pre
tional manner by tape facing 47. 7
i
‘
shaped
portion of the breast cup and the outer edge of
FIGS.11 and v2 ‘show the brassiere and ‘its parts sub 65
the
transition
member, and at the same time prevents any
stantially to scale with the elastic parts in their relaxed
tendency for the breast cup to move out of relation with
state ‘and with certain portions foreshortened, and FIGS.
the breast or the breast to move out of the breast cup.
4 ‘and 6 show the transition member 16 in a ?attened
The band members 35 remain in a substantially ?xed
position before assembly with the brassiere and in a
position at each side of the body, and expansion and con
relaxed-state. ‘By way of example the relaxed length of
traction of the circumferential chest measurement is com
the fully stretchable elastic zone along the top edge 29
pensated for by the horizontal elastic front panel 31 and
of the transition member is about one inch, Whereas
the elastic fastener strap 41. By virtue of the yielding
fully stretched it is about 11/2 inches long. The relaxed
connections at the front and. ‘rear ends of the shoulder
length of the fully stretchable elastic zone along the
outer edge 25 is about 5 inches, whereas fully stretched 75 straps and the ?xed anchor points 39 the band members
are prevented from riding up or being otherwise displaced
3,094,991
5
during normal arm or other movements of the upper body
of the wearer, and the shoulder straps are prevented from
exerting excessive pressure upon the shoulders.
It will be understood that the brassiere of the inven
tion may be incorporated in combination garments such
as slips, nightgowns, bathing suits and the like, as the
upper part of such garments. The term brassiere as used
herein is therefore intended to apply to a brassiere per so,
3. A brassiere as de?ned in claim 1, further character
ized in that each said transition member is formed of two
way stretch elastic material having one ‘direction of stretch
substantially ‘horizontal and the other direction of stretch
substantially vertical.
4. A brassiere as de?ned in claim 1, ‘further character
ized in that each said transition member is formed of dif
?erential two-way stretch elastic material having its major
direction of stretch substantially horizontal and its minor
as well as to a brassiere part of a combination garment.
10 direction of stretch substantially vertical.
What is claimed is:
5. A brassiere as de?ned in claim 1, further character
1. A brassiere comprising:
ized in that said outer elastic edge of each said transition
(a) a body encircling band;
member comprises a marginal portion of the material of
(b) a pair of breast cups respectively disposed at each
said transition member folded upon itself, and wherein an
side of the forward center line of the brassiere;
(0) each said breast cup comprising in part a pre 15 elastic tape is secured along the full length of said mar
ginal portion.
shaped cup member to support and mold the breast
6. A brassiere as de?ned in claim 1, turther character
of the wearer, and in part a transition member of
ized in that said upper elastic edge of each said transition
elastic material;
member comprises a marginal portion of the material of
(d ) each said cup member having an inward upper edge
said transition member folded upon itself.
20
inclined upwardly and outwardly relatively to said
7. A brassiere ‘as de?ned in claim 1, further character
center line, a lower edge convexly curved downward
ized in that said connection of each said shoulder strap to
ly to substantially conform in part to the lower pe
said upwardly directed apex of a respective transition
riphery of the wearer’s breast, and an outward side
member is along said outer elastic edge adjacent its meet
edge extending between the outer extremities of its
said upper and lower edges in a generally up and 25 ing point with said upper elastic edge of said transition
member.
down direction for engagement over the breast of
8. A brassiere as de?ned in claim 1, further character
the wearer along an arched line having its crown
ized ‘in that said band is inelastic at least along those por
outwardly of the center and substantially inwardly of
tions of its upper edge immediately adjacent to and ex
the outer periphery of the breast cup;
tending outwardly ‘from said laterally outwardly directed
30
(e) each said transition member having an upper elas
apices of said transition members.
tic edge constituting an elastic extension of said in~
9. A bras‘siere as de?ned in claim 1, further character
ward upper edge of said cup member, a lower edge
ized
in that said band comprises a pair of inelastic band
having an inward portion constituting an extension
members having upper and lower edges and inner and
of said lower edge of said cup member and an out
ward portion extending outwardly to a point inter 35 outer end edges, said inner end edges being disposed at
points intermediate said lower edges of said cup members,
mediate the length of said body encircling band and
and said outer end edges being disposed outwardly beyond
secured thereto, an inner side edge coextensive with
said laterally outwardly directed apices of said transition
and secured along its full length to said outward side
members, an elastic panel extending at each side of said
edge of said cup member, and an outer elastic edge
meeting at its upper extremity with the outer extremity 40 forward center line having curved upper edges secured to
said lower edges of said cup members, side edges secured
of its said upper elastic edge in an upwardly directed
to said inner end edges of said band members and a lower
apex and extending downwardly and outwardly from
edge substantially in line with the lower edges of said band
its said upper extremity and meeting at its lower
members, and horizontally elastic means for connecting
extremity with the outer extremity of its said lower
45 said outer end edges of said band members at the wearer’s
edge in a laterally outwardly directed apex;
back.
(1‘) said body encircling band extending at each side
‘10. A brassiere as de?ned in claim 1, further character
of said forward center line of the brassiere and having
ized in that said shoulder straps each comprise an inelas
upper and lower edges, said upper edge in part being
tic strap member connected at one end to a respective
coextensive with and secured along said lower edges
50 transition member and adapted to extend over the shoul
of said cup members and said lower edges of said
der to the back of the wearer and an elastic tape connected
between its other end and the upper edge of a respec
transition members, and in part extending outwardly
from said laterally directed apex of each of said
transition members for disposition at the back of the
wearer; and
(g) a pair of shoulder straps, each connected at its for 55
ward end to said upwardly directed apex of a respec
tive transition member and connected at its rearward
end to the upper edge of said band at a point adapted
to be disposed at the back of the wearer.
2. A brassiere as de?ned in claim 1, further character
ized in that each said pre-shaped cup member is for-med
of inelastic material.
60
tive band member at a point adapted to be disposed at the
wearer’s back.
References Cited in the ?le of this patent
UNITED STATES PATENTS
2,538,709
Rosner ______________ __ Ian. 16, 1951
2,651,040
2,869,554
2,971,517
Block _______________ __ Sept. 8, 1953
Hollar ______________ __ Ian. 20, 1959
Steinmetz ___________ __ Feb. 14, 1961
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