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Construction Packet
Retail and Design
пЃ¶Make all pleats in the same direction.
пЃ¶Following the arrows printed on the
pattern. Fold your fabric on the solid
line and bring the fold to the broken
пЃ¶Baste or pin pleats along the folded
edges; then baste across the top of all
пЃ¶If pleats are to be pressed, do it now.
пЃ¶Pleats can also be edge stitched in
place from waist to hip.
пЃ¶ It is a handy stitch for
finishing up small sewing
jobs. Keep in mind for
applying such things as
bell carriers or sateners,
and for finishing some
quick and easy hems
пЃ¶ Backstitch tack to attach
the thread to the topside of
the fabric
пЃ¶ Take small, even stitches,
catching both fabric edges
with one stitch
пЃ¶ A tuck is a stitched fold of fabric. Groups of tucks
are used to control fullness or add a decorative
touch to shoulders, waistlines, yokes, pockets or
cuffed sleeves.
пЃ¶ Very narrow tucks: Sometimes called pin tucks,
these are usually indicated by a series of solid lines
printed on the pattern piece. Fold the fabric on each
line and stitch close to the fold.
пЃ¶ Wider tucks: A pattern piece with wide or spaced
tucks will usually have solid and broken lines printed
on it. Fold the fabric on the solid line, matching the
broken lines. Then, stitch along the broken lines.
Machine Gathering
пѓј Use long machine stitches, then pull them to gather up light or
medium weight fabric for ruffles and other trims.
пѓј To eliminate bulk at the gathering line, trim any crossing seam
allowances before basing.
пѓј Machine baste two rows of stitches from the right side of your
fabric, the first row on the seam line and the second Вј inch
into the seam allowance. Use long basting stitches, about 6-8
per inch.
пѓј Match the markings and pin the fabric edges, right sides
пѓј Secure the bobbin threads at one end of the fabric by winding
them in a figure eight around the pin.
пѓј Pull the bobbin threads from the opposite end and gently slide
the fabric along the thread to create soft, even gathers.
пѓј Adjust the gathers to create smooth, even folds
пѓј Pin baste the gathered edge to the ungathered edge,
matching notches
пѓј Stitch along the seam line, gathered side up. Hold the gathers
evenly on both sides of the needle to prevent catching any
lucks in your seam.
Machine Gathering
Double Stitched Seam
Stitch on the seam line, right
sides of the two pieces of
fabric together.
Stitch again about 3/8 inch
from the seam, closer to the
cut edges of the seam
Trim the seam allowance
close to the stitching.
Clipping and Notching
пѓ� Clipping and notching are methods of slitting the seam
allowances in corners or along curves to allow them to lie
пѓ� Clipping is done by cutting into the seam allowance with the
point of your scissors. Never clip an area before you sew it.
Important that you clip all the way to, but not through, the
пѓ� Notching is done by cutting tiny wedges from the seam
allowance. It helps remove excess bulk from outward curves.
Slip Stitch
 An almost invisible stitch, the slipstitch is used to
join two folded edges or one folded edge to a flat
surface. It’s great for skinny rolled hems and for
attaching linings.
 Secure the thread and bring the needle through the
folded edge.
 Slip the needle through the folded edge and, with
the same stitch, catch one or two threads in the
other layer of fabric.
 Continue the stitches, always slipping the needle
through the fold on the other layer of fabric.
 Finish by securing the thread with a backstitch tack.
Slip Stitch
The Prick Stitch
пЃ±It is a variation and is used most often
for inserting a hand picked zipper.
пЃ±Backstitch tack to attach thread to the
пЃ±Take a very small stitch behind the
thread through all fabric layers
пЃ±Bring the needle to the topside about
1/4” (6mm) apart
пЃ±Finish by pulling thread to the
underside and securing it with a
backstitch tack.
Plain Seam
пЃ¶Place the two pieces of fabric
right sides together, matching
seam lines
пЃ¶Be certain the cut edges of the
seam allowances rest one on
top of another
пЃ¶Stitch along the seam line
пЃ¶Press the seam flat, as it was
stitched, then open the seam
allowances and press again
Plain Seam
French Seam
пѓј Stitch the two pieces of fabric, wrong sides
together 3/8 inch from the raw edges
пѓј Trim the seam allowances to 1/8 inch
пѓј Press the seam allowances open with the tip of
your iron
пѓј It helps to finger press first. Open the seam
allowances with the tips of your fingers and run
them along the seam
пѓј Fold the fabric over the seam allowances, right
sides together, so that the seam rests at the edge
of the fold, press
пѓј Stitch again Вј inch from the folded edge. The two
seams 3/8 inch and Вј inch combine to make a 5/8
inch seam
French Seam
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