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Color Correction Solutions PowerPoint

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Color Correction
Solutions
Formulating for Gray Coverage
Gray hair no longer
produces color
pigment, which
causes the hair to
be white.
п‚— The hair appears
gray because of
light reflecting any
pigmented hair on
to the white.
п‚—
Determining Percentage of Gray
п‚—
п‚—
In formulating for
gray coverage, it is
important to first
determine the
average amount of
gray existing.
The gray hair must
be filled, (colored)
with the “N” series,
(Natural tones),
reflecting the
percentage of gray
present.
Gray % Used
0%
25%
50%
75%
100%
“N” Series Used
N/A
ВЅ oz
1 oz
1 ВЅ oz
2 oz
Consider the Areas of Gray Hair on the
Client in Formulations…
п‚—
If for instance, a client has the
majority of gray hair in the front
of the head,(100%) and the rest
of gray hair is scattered, (25%),
consider the formula closely.
п‚—
A formula for 25% gray will not
have good coverage on the area
with 100% gray hair. Some
cosmetologist would create a
two formulas, one for the 100%
gray hair and one for the 25%
gray.
Formulation for Gray Coverage
Tips to Remember
There are many techniques used for gray
coverage. Experience will guide decisions. Some
are as follow:
п‚— Use 20 volume developer.
п‚— Rough up cuticle with color brush while applying
color.
п‚— Process full recommended time.
п‚— Clients with a 100% gray usually look better
within the blonde range, instead of going darker.
п‚— High lift blondes are not designed for gray
coverage. It is recommended to use a level 7 and
add highlights.
п‚—
Tips to Remember Continued…
п‚—
If hair is 80% -100% gray,
remember haircolor in the blonde
series is usually more flattering
than dark haircolors.
п‚—
Applying haircolor to “salt and
pepper” hair, will make the
pigmented hair appear darker. For
this reason, select 1-2 levels
lighter than the client’s desired
haircolor.
Formulation Chart- Using Symbols
For record keeping and quick
reference, use the following
codes:
Formula
 Natural Level – NL
 Existing Level – EL
 Desired Level – DL
п‚— % of Gray - %
One way of recording the client’s natural level
of a medium brown hair is �5N.’ If the client
hair is an existing level 5 red, simply write
(5R). If the desired color is level 4 red, write
(4R). Enter the percentage of gray hair as
(%).
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
Colors
N- Natural V-Violet
R- Red
BV- Blue Violet
G- Gold
RO-Red Orange
A- Ash
RV- Red Violet
п‚—
п‚—
Example:
NL- 5N
EL- 5R
DL- 4R
% -0
By looking at the above, we can quickly
see that the client has colored her hair in
the past to a level 5 red, but now desires
one level darker, 4R and has no gray hair
to consider in the formulation.
Formulating For Gray
Coverage
•
•
•
•
1st – Determine client’s
percentage of gray hair.
2nd- To achieve gray coverage,
remember the percentage of
gray hair must be matched by
the same percentage of the
desire level’s “N” series.
3rd – Subtract the percentage
needed to cover the gray from
2 oz to determine the amount
needed for the desired color.
Remember to consider if you
need to cancel out any
unwanted tones.
Example:
Natural Level - 5 N
Existing Level – 3 R
Desired Level - 3 R
% of gray hair – 25 %
Formulation:
2 oz. 20 vol. developer
1ВЅ oz. 3R Haircolor
ВЅ oz. 3N Haircolor
Color Correction for Redheads
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
Red tones tend to fade the fastest.
To create warm coppery reds, use
a RO base color.
To create fiery reds, use RV or R
base color.
Use a demi-permanent haircolor to
refresh ends from fadage.
If gray hair is present, add at least
ВЅ ounce of the N series so the hair
does not turn pink.
Corrective Color for Brunettes
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
Use a blue base color when
lightening brunettes to avoid orange
or brassy tones.
Do not lighten more than two levels
to avoid orange or brassy tones.
Add at least ВЅ ounce of the N series
for gray hair.
For natural looking highlights with
brown hair, choose caramel or gold
tones. Blondes have a lot of contrast.
Corrective Color for Blondes
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
п‚—
When highlighting blondes, remember the underlying
pigment is gold or yellow.
When working with gray and blonde hair, use a level 7 or
darker for good coverage.
Double-process coloring is the best method to obtain a
pale blonde color.
To correct unwanted yellow tones when lightening, use
violet tones.
To correct unwanted orange tones when lightening use
blue-violet tones.
Remember if hair becomes too blonde all over, you can
add low-lights by foiling to create a more natural color.
Correcting Green Cast
For hair with a green cast, try
using a product design to remove
the mineral buildup. Use a demipermanent to neutralize unwanted
tones.
п‚— To avoid chlorine buildup when
swimming, have clients wet hair
and add a little conditioner to the
hair before entering the pool. After
getting out of the pool, have client
at least rinse hair, if not shampoo
immediately.
п‚—
Correcting Hair that is too Dark
п‚—
Use a haircolor remover if too dark to lift unwanted tones.
п‚—
Process 10 minutes and check hair.
п‚—
Remember these removers are designed to remove
artificial pigment from the hair.
п‚—
The hair may need a toner, to help neutralize tones.
п‚—
Once desired color is achieved, rinse, shampoo and
condition.
Cautions when Correcting Color
If hair seems to not hold haircolor well, it could
be that the hair is too damaged and overly
porous.
п‚— When this occurs, there may be insufficient
structure left within the cortex for the artificial
pigment to attach to the hair.
 If hair has a “gun-metal” gray cast, it is a danger
sign, the hair may need to be conditioned and
cut before a service is provided.
п‚— Remember all haircolor can be corrected with
time and patience.
п‚—
Work Cited
п‚—
Milady’s Standard
Cosmetology
Textbook,
Copyright 2007
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